I was loving my new egates until I Lost my Texas speed 427 earlier this year with turbosmarts new egate.. I had all the boost all at once in burnout .. it was a complete loss.. and I'm no rich RUclips star or sponsored racer so I'm gutted lol ... Had to build a 5.3 In the meantime until I save up for a new 427ci again because Ive had great luck with this platform until I had a mishap with the new gates ...
@@freedomfox8183 This I always an unfortunate situation brother. But, let’s talk about HOW and with WHAT you were using to control the eGates. The power to the eGate simply allows it to be controlled open or close, and the controller is what actually commands those open/close conditions. There has to be a more investigated reason why the eGates stayed closed and over-boosted past the set target while you were in the burnout box. Jay @realstreetperformance, thoughts?!
One trick I use to open waste gates is grab a length of 6mm x 1.0 all thread or 3 long bolts of the same thread pitch, along with a few nuts and washers. Cut the all thread into 3 pieces and remove 3 bolts from the waste gate from every other location and then thread in the all thread and then thread the nuts on with the washers all the way down until they contact the waste gate. Remove the 3 other bolts, evenly start to unthread the nuts until the tension from the springs are released. Reverse procedure to reinstall. It's a good way to do it so the bolt holes are aligned and you're not fighting rotating anything to align and risking possibly cross threading those fine threads. I like Jay's trick, next time I'm servicing my waste gate I'll try my drill press.
I though that the drill press was a very clever way to assemble/disassemble the wastegate. I use a vise, which works well, except accessing all of the hat bolts. Great video
Now that RS is getting back into some youtube testing videos I would absolutely love to see Turbosmarts new strait gate phnematic not electronic tested. Ive got my fingers crossed.
Has the Turbosmart electronic waste gate not worked for full boost control with a motorsports grade stand alone, like Motec? Also with a sensor on the wastegate cap going to a Motec tell us the crack pressure in real time or in the data logs?
If I have a 7lb wastegate spring, when would my wastegate crack and when would it be fully open? What spring should I use if I want to limit my boost to 7psi? Thanks
You don't really need a 4port for max boost... you can achieve it with a 3 port... Port 1 to the top chamber Port 3 to the bottom chamber Port 2 to the compressor cover No need to "vent" the solenoid. It will still, however be sensitive to DC like a 4port. HTH
Not Jay here but it is same logic of "how much money waste is acceptable from what you have in your pocket to spend". Real problem with leak is how much it is leaking in % from nominal values at operating conditions. What that means. IF you set 10PSI as test pressure and you have leak that will drop this pressure to say 9PSI, do you know will it leak in same way when you boost 20PSI at 700 degreess at waste gate and about 200 degress at engine bay. Simplest way is to make the darn thing not to leak. Other problem with the leaks is if you tune your engine to run fine with the leak, once when you accidentally fix the leak there is high chance you will lean out and burn some cylinders. Just make it to not leak.
@MrJembob - I asked this question the other day on the TiAL tech support line when I was experiencing a leak through the valve shaft while pressure testing an MVR wastegate. They said some leakage is normal and a complete seal is not desireable there. That was with me testing with a hand pump to provide pressure. When I used regulated shop air like in this video, I found my crack pressure.
Your pulls on the dyno probably run a little longer than street pulls. Measure your rpm rise per second in both. The faster the engine runs through its pull the less boost it is likely to make.
Next we should talk about eGates and pwm manipulation.
Thank you for the feedback.
I was loving my new egates until I Lost my Texas speed 427 earlier this year with turbosmarts new egate.. I had all the boost all at once in burnout .. it was a complete loss.. and I'm no rich RUclips star or sponsored racer so I'm gutted lol ... Had to build a 5.3 In the meantime until I save up for a new 427ci again because Ive had great luck with this platform until I had a mishap with the new gates ...
@@freedomfox8183 This I always an unfortunate situation brother. But, let’s talk about HOW and with WHAT you were using to control the eGates. The power to the eGate simply allows it to be controlled open or close, and the controller is what actually commands those open/close conditions. There has to be a more investigated reason why the eGates stayed closed and over-boosted past the set target while you were in the burnout box. Jay @realstreetperformance, thoughts?!
@@Yaadman69 they don't open to over boost bro, they don't open. There is no fail safe in an e gate.
@@sexyfacenation Thats what I meant. Corrected the text.
One trick I use to open waste gates is grab a length of 6mm x 1.0 all thread or 3 long bolts of the same thread pitch, along with a few nuts and washers. Cut the all thread into 3 pieces and remove 3 bolts from the waste gate from every other location and then thread in the all thread and then thread the nuts on with the washers all the way down until they contact the waste gate. Remove the 3 other bolts, evenly start to unthread the nuts until the tension from the springs are released. Reverse procedure to reinstall. It's a good way to do it so the bolt holes are aligned and you're not fighting rotating anything to align and risking possibly cross threading those fine threads. I like Jay's trick, next time I'm servicing my waste gate I'll try my drill press.
The education level on this video was good stuff. Great video Broski! 🔥 🔥 🔥
The drill press is brilliant! It was on my list of things to get anyway but it just moved up a few notches.
In case anyone is wondering, the internally gated turbo shown at 0:51 is a Mitsubishi TD-04 from a Subaru.
Great information very informative
I though that the drill press was a very clever way to assemble/disassemble the wastegate. I use a vise, which works well, except accessing all of the hat bolts. Great video
Now that RS is getting back into some youtube testing videos I would absolutely love to see Turbosmarts new strait gate phnematic not electronic tested. Ive got my fingers crossed.
Holy shit... so smart on the drill press trick. I HATE when I have open up anew wastegate.. ill definitely be doing that in the future 👍
Always sharing the knowledge. Thanks, Jay!
Really appreciate this video, thank you!!
Jay! You losing weight man, ya looking good no homo
Glad to see some tech tips. Been missing these
Great episode Jay. Invaluable information👍
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
Great stuff
Love seeing precision turbos and hardware. Those in the know, know.
Ahhhh Yes!
Has the Turbosmart electronic waste gate not worked for full boost control with a motorsports grade stand alone, like Motec? Also with a sensor on the wastegate cap going to a Motec tell us the crack pressure in real time or in the data logs?
Great info 👍 you guys or legendary
If I have a 7lb wastegate spring, when would my wastegate crack and when would it be fully open? What spring should I use if I want to limit my boost to 7psi? Thanks
what’s the best way too get higher boost pressure from a smaller weight spring? one four port or two three port solenoid?
So basically two different channels to the ecu, meaning two different maps? Wonder how the ECU will make close loop operation?
Hello, if I set my Wastegate to 8psi can exhaust pressure open it before 8psi?
Fucking genius. I never thought about the crack pressure and what it actually does and affects the pressure. Thanks
You don't really need a 4port for max boost... you can achieve it with a 3 port...
Port 1 to the top chamber
Port 3 to the bottom chamber
Port 2 to the compressor cover
No need to "vent" the solenoid.
It will still, however be sensitive to DC like a 4port.
HTH
Hey Jay. I have a question. How much leak past the shaft is acceptable on a wastegate please ?
Not Jay here but it is same logic of "how much money waste is acceptable from what you have in your pocket to spend". Real problem with leak is how much it is leaking in % from nominal values at operating conditions. What that means. IF you set 10PSI as test pressure and you have leak that will drop this pressure to say 9PSI, do you know will it leak in same way when you boost 20PSI at 700 degreess at waste gate and about 200 degress at engine bay. Simplest way is to make the darn thing not to leak. Other problem with the leaks is if you tune your engine to run fine with the leak, once when you accidentally fix the leak there is high chance you will lean out and burn some cylinders. Just make it to not leak.
@MrJembob - I asked this question the other day on the TiAL tech support line when I was experiencing a leak through the valve shaft while pressure testing an MVR wastegate. They said some leakage is normal and a complete seal is not desireable there. That was with me testing with a hand pump to provide pressure. When I used regulated shop air like in this video, I found my crack pressure.
Do you have store in Amazon?
Hi, we have our own website and an Ebay Store.
www.realstreetperformance.com/
www.ebay.com/str/realstreetperformancesales
How much is the real street hood prop? I can’t seem to find it on the website.
HAHA Im waiting for the carbon fibre version to come out
Riddle me this my car made 26psi on the dyno then on the street it makes 2psi less🤦 what would cause this? 👍
Your pulls on the dyno probably run a little longer than street pulls. Measure your rpm rise per second in both. The faster the engine runs through its pull the less boost it is likely to make.