Видео

Haha I appreciate the feedback and I agree. I caught that during editing after the fact unfortunately. I was still learning to use the new mic setup. Shouldn’t happen moving forward!

@@turbospool really? your editing software doesn't have the ability to do convert mono to stereo by filling both channels? There's a post on the Adobe forums "How do I convert a mono clip (already on the timeline) to a stereo clip?" from back in 2017 that might help if you're using premiere, but all video editing software that I'm aware of has methods for copying a left/mono channel to stereo, even if sometimes it's convoluted. also, please do some practice recordings just for yourself, you're clipping really hard due to gain being too high. it's a better to have a slightly lower source and then use a compressor in post if you're too quiet.

Yes it is! But here’s a tip to save you some money- if you have a Puma Store (the maker of most current BMW gear) nearby, go to there and buy it there. Should be cheaper than at a dealer with their markup. They typically have a whole section for BMW gear.

@@turbospool good call! I checked on the Puma site, and I don't see that exact one that you got. Some other nice ones, but I dig that one the most haha!

@@JDMsohc dang! They must have ended is with the season. Booo! Lol yea mine is maybe 2yo.

Hot glued into place

Thank you much!

Thank you! Enjoy the weekend

Thanks! Very happy with it

You're welcome!

Sounds excellent! And yes wrap them!

Been about a year and a half, 3 road trips now (OK-NC, OK-TX, and OK-LA) and they definitely still feel like new. Bilsteins have that reputation though- holding their brand new feel much longer than others :-). Miles- I don’t recall exactly but just below 6,000 miles in the time

Sorry what are you referring to as the crank vacuum valley? I tried googling it and did not find anything named that.

@turbospool sorry , the chamber for the vacuum, you said you had an internal leak

@@Hennessyr24 ah yes! So i looked it over and I couldn’t see any cracks. But I also didnt take the time to clean it and shine a light to it to check. I just didnt see any obvious cracks. But micro-fractures could cause all this and not be easily visible. And the integral vacuum canister was FULL of oil. As you notice on the video I had tipped over the old valve cover to check the canister and oil had poured out of it.

@turbospool on my second valve cover this year, both elring brand with oil in the vacuum chamber , dripping oil from the boost solenoid and consuming about 1qt per 1k miles. Before the n55+ turbo up grade It Didn't consume any oil in 5k intervals, maybe 🤔 is the higher boost . Just replaced the vacuum pump valve ,the diaphragm was gone hopefully that solve my oil consumption.

@@Hennessyr24 wow!! Yea that’s a lot! If the new vacuum pump does not fix the issue, i recommend you do a compression test. It’s not a common issue with N55s but worth checking if this new pump doesnt fix it

Nope! Thankfully I never had that happen to me.

I actually WANT to put the cover back on just to decrease all the fine dust build up from living in Oklahoma. I just have to modify it to clear the new routing of my vent lines from the Bimmerhaus Performance intake. And zero issues with the VC! No leaks and the clear cost finish is intact despite the heat cycling .

It’s been great! Looking good and working as intended

@@turbospool no problems with the bolts or gaskets it came with?

@@Nolimitf22 correct. All working as intended so far

Absolutely! Hope it helps you out!

Gracias! Si, modificar el mapa es requerido. Siertos programas- comp por ejemplo mi MHD, tienen una option para seleccionar si el motor tiene un Helix. Pero esta opcion no esta disponible en todas plataformas. En mi F10 por ejemplo no lo tenia. Pero con el turbo grande y eso yo ya andaba con un tune custom. Solo le dije a mo tuner q estaba instalando el Helix y el me mando una revision del tune que operaba con el Helix.

Been about a year and a half since i did this and so far the tweeters are still solid in place, thankfully :)

Oh man… yes I do plan to get to it. But it is at the bottom of my to-do list lol. Ive been debating doing it myself or having an interior upholstery shop do it so they can best match the VW fabric. We’ll see when the time comes

@@turbospool cheapest I’ve been quoted out here in CA is $450

@@shaggymunky eeek! Man for that Id buy the VW one. A few years ago (maybe around 2018) i got a quote for the full headliner assembly and it was like $530. Who knows now with inflation through. At that price Id definitely do it myself and just buy a roll gray headliner fabric and a couple cans of 3M headliner adhesive

Mine did not have a cover to remove. I had clean access to the valve once the two lines were unbolted from it. You get s good view at 9:54, lines removed at 10:31, valve removed at 10:36. Maybe in other years they added a cover that I dont have on mine?

@@turbospool I see. I thought you might have left that part out. Mine is a 2008. I did figure out how to remove it. There is one 10 mm nut and two clips. Thanks. I think my issue may be the AC control valve but I’m going to replace the expansion valve at the same time since o would have to evacuate the system and replace the refrigerant for each procedure anyway. I would rather just do it once. Both parts are relatively inexpensive so I may as well.

@@texyat7388 exactly, that's the way to do it! Good luck!

I mentioned that you have to support the engine, then unbolt the motor mounts (3 10mm bolts each), disconnect the charge pipe and boost pipe, and you can start lifting carefully

@@turbospool Ok I see, I thought it was just the top bolt that needs to be unscrewed not the whole engine mount. I thought it was only 1 screw on each side on the top where the support brackets to hold the engine. So, I need to also remove the 3 bolts on both engine mounts as well? thanks

They are lighter than the original single-pistons I had!

@@turbospool thanks for the quick response! Just ordered them now!

It just worked as intended. These headlights were 100% Plug and Play

You wont regret it! Im still smiling when i pop my hood and see it.

@@turbospool did you figure out what the hex bolt is for yet?? I spent 400 on my wife’s x3 valve cover with lifetime warranty and decided to go your route for mine. Thanks for the layout of the bolts. I put them in place already and also was checking to see if I got all my bolts in the bag. My wife actually thought the aluminum one was more expensive by the look and quality. Looks more amazing in person!

@@freddieruger1 nice!!! And dude no i did not 😂 it just stayed in the bag and it’s in my workbench now. I found no need for it. So many in other platforms that use the N55 it gets used. But it was not needed on my F10

@@turbospool I’ll keep you posted when I get mine installed on Wednesday for that mystery bolt😆

Absolutely! If i were 20yo no problem! Lol but as a more mature man nowadays Im not dealing with that catless stuff anymore

This is just Part 1. There very next video released was Part 2 :-). Go check it out to see it finished and running

Difficult to diag without the car being in front of me. But what I would check is first the audio settings on the HU. Are you using an external amp or feeding the speakers directly from the HU?

@turbospool I'm not using any amp. All the settings seem normal, and I have tried resetting it.

@@GodofMushrooms did you check that the fuse in the back of the HU isn't blown? I forgot now if that fuse is for incoming or outgoing voltage. If the fuse is good, I would recommend you contact the vendor you bought the headunit from and see what they want you to check. You have have a faulty internal amp/ mosfet and could get it replaced by warranty.

@turbospool I'll check the fuse, but I took the head unit out of another car, and it was working fine. I found a video expalining how to install it from a company that makes a different harness than the one i have, so im going to try getting that harness and seeing if that works. Thanks for your help, brother.

Haha! That’s actually just a matter for the dog to lay on and not damage the leather/ makes it easier to clean all the dog hair. Here’s the link to it Honest Luxury Quilted Dog Car... www.amazon.com/dp/B07BT67145?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Correcto en ambas preguntas. Hay que evacuar el sistema antes de quitar la valvula… y luego hay que recargar el sistema

Not yet! Barely started tuning E50 last week. Feeling night and day already and we’re not even at 70% WGDC. So plenty of airflow still to go! I can say that if it’s your DD, this turbo is the way to go. The value, the midrange and top end, it’s awesome. Just remember that due to the dual force wastegate you WILL need to have custom tuning lined up. Car will not drive safely if you just install it and wait to do your tune later. So factor that into your planning if you have not already

Unknown to me at this point because I bought the struts as a set. See link in description. The vendor may have a part number breakdown of the contents :)

Thank you so much!

It COULD. Just depends if you actually have a bad sensor OR a faulty HPFP causing the sensor to read abnormally low pressure. Just he aware that this is a possibility. Hopefully in your case it’s just a bad sensor. That is MUCH cheaper and easier to replace than the HPFP.

Unfortunately it has clearcoat over it , so you would have to sand that down prior to painting. Sorry for the sad news! Lol i wanted to paint mine too until I saw that.

@@turbospool oh man, that sucks lol. But I think I’m about todo the same thing to mine. Whoever owned the car before me did the pcv replacement but didn’t clock it right so it’s randomly getting the screech of death haha.

@@chrispowell6633 oh no! Yea that’s annoying and it makes the car run like poop. Good luck getting it back to 100%!

@@turbospool thanks man! Keep up the good content 🤙🏼

Not enough to notice on the highflow catted one. Since the cat itself is a big ceramic oven it holds a lot of heat within anyway. The wrap is just there to reduce the heat being emitted outward. On the CATLESS downpipe I did notice it almost eliminated the downpipe tin-popping sound. Spool up sounded cleaner to the ear as well. I DID notice less heat coming up that side of the engine when I would pop the hood (as theres no catalyst retaining heat like with a catted or the stock DP)

Thank you for supporting the BMW community!

yes it is thankfully! AC is still nice and cold

Thanks! At the time it was not fully wired in. At the time Of the video, I just ran power and ground so you weren't looking at a blank gauge. Easier to show if it is powered up. But to answer your question, I just ran power and ground from the jump post in the engine bay and had it grounded to a random bolt near the jump post, lol. It's actually very easy to wire it up properly though. I got the gauge from Amazon. It's just a simple digital readout, electric boost sensor. There's a bunch in there to pick from. I remember this one cost me less than $30

@@turbospool Nice! Definitely going to get one. It's a good look. Thank you

@@beamer2169 good luck!

my F10 did not. The majority of F-chassis will not require coding. E-chassis WILL require coding. Check their website for further details

nope. Cooler kit does not require coding

they're very easy to work with! I've had nothing but positive experiences dealing with them

Yea no kidding! Not something we should be worrying about.

Thank you!!

So i have heard of this happening in rare cases. I PERSONALLY have not had it happen to me. BUT if it did, what I would do is just run my own thicker gauge power wire from the EKP to the terminal on the pump (you’d have to go to the dealer to get the required electrical pins on each end of your new wire). That’s what I would do. I know theres other companies that supply an EKP to run dual pumps WITH harness and stuff. But thats buku $. Worth it if you have the need for it though!

It changes with the new unit, cause it draws less current, I think close to half, even if it adds some extra amps, what it will do is give you a steady flow of amps compare to before with less volt draw and run cooler 😎

@@Carlos335is that’s whats up! A proper technical explanation beyond my degree 😂 lol thanks!

Nice! Thanks!

Thank you for the recommendations!

Im telling you doctor! They’re really knocking it out the ballpark in the BMW community!

Thank you guys for the kind words and for your support 🙏

Thanks bro! Im really happy with it!

Not a dumb question at all. So BMW uses the same exact VC assembly for ALL N55s- be it PWG or EWG. This Aluminum one is based on that design so it can fit all applications. On EWG those two nipples are simple not used. Doesn’t hurt anything as that is just going to the vacuum chamber that’s integrated to the underside of the VC. EWGs don’t use that at all so you’re good.

@turbospool i only ask cause i just installed mine and now have a vacuum leak i cant find 😪

@@microgammer4473 oh no! Do you have a smoke tester?

@@turbospool in making one tonight

Hello! Did you watch the video to the end? I cover the two options available to eliminate the EDC errors (KW Error eliminator kit, OR remote coding by a BMW Coder such as RVG Performance)

@@turbospool Hey , yes I watched the end after posting the comment lol. thanks!

@@mody766 haha i figured you asked the question while watching so you wouldn’t forget it lolol. Good luck! And congrats on the BCs!

It did quiet down the exhaust a little bit, which was a welcomed change. It was too loud for DD duty with a catless. So im with you on this. It’s definitely worth the extra money for a highflow cat over a catless