Eric, really appreciate you taking the time to post these videos. I really enjoy them. I've been retired since 08 but work out of my garage 3 or4 days a week. Nothing heavy anymore. Mostly elec. and a/c some diagnosing a few brake jobs struts here and there a ball joint or two. you have got me hooked but don't envy NY left there in 62 climate is a lot milder here in TX. thanks again.
Hey no problem George Heri . Glad I can provide someone with a little entertainment! I'd be working in my underwear in TX lol. Glad your still willing and able to get dirty! Thanks for watching, -Eric O.
Well done, verifying the repair , done once done right. As. dIY I get quite a bit of work from my local dealers that charge $125 an hour plus 13% tax. They seem to read a code a slap on a part. I just did a repair on a 2011 cobalt the dealer said was a evap purge solenoid , oh yeah I see it when the code comes back on, it was a open wire in the connector. Customer got hossed once and was afraid to go back an tell them what I found. Now she won't go back and the dealership will loose business. There's good techs there that suffer because of a bad apple or untrained. I don't want to slag the industry but I would say parts changers a quite common. Heck I don't mind it gives me some pocket change and repeat customers. Take Care Steve. PS - the woman was not told the repair was covered under the warranty , her total bill was $165 - plus they kept her good solenoid and sold her another good solenoid.
Oh yeah I see it often to and a lot of my customers come about that way. The majority of shops in our area are suffering but thankfully we stay pretty steady year round with a good loyal customers base. Gotta beat that BOOK is the mentality most shops / techs have. Make as much as I can as fast as I can! Me... well I just wanna fix the damn car lol. Preferably on round one lol.
Unless things have changed, the biggest issue I saw when I was dealerships, was that warranty was not paying for diagnostics or troubleshooting separately. Whatever time you were paid for replacing a part included the diagnosis as well. Now back then you could get GM to go for a .5 hr driveability scan one time per car and you had to submit a worksheet as well. Warranty time did not pay squat to replace an egr valve like you just did and I can tell you confidently as a dealer tech you would of lost time on that repair. Got beat. Just getting the car off the lot, and going to the parts counter and back you'd of used the time they pay to replace that valve. Not making excuses for the dealer techs, but maybe if you went and worked at one for a month or two and saw what it was like, you'd have a better understanding why things are the way they are.
Thank you for being so thorough and taking your time to help the rest of us. I love RUclips for and appreciate all the people who post these kind of videos, but I gotta say, Eric you are the best! Thank you again.
As much as I fiend for your videos, I have to say "if I can do it, you can do it" doesn't ring true. You've got skills. Hell, I can't read no farking scan tool. I can't even spell EGR. And you've got some choice diagnostic toys. In any event, love your channel
I watched the 2 videos and I have to thank you for a wonderful job you've done. As I have a similar problem in my 2002 honda civic, can a bad EGR cause the car to run rich and effect fuel economy?
Love your videos and thorough troubleshooting and explanations. I don’t have an Odyssey but I watch those vids anyway to learn what may happen on my “new to me” 2006 Ridgeline. But I do have one question. I’ve heard that Honda EGR systems (and some others) are fairly sensitive and it’s best to use OEM parts. I noticed you used a Wells EGR valve, so I assume you are fairly confident in their quality and they work well on Honda vehicles. If Wells is good, what other suppliers do you use on Hondas and what suppliers would you avoid? Thanks in advance!
I always thought that EGR valves are specific to Diesel engines (or turbocharged engines) - after a bit of research it seems I am definitely wrong. My thoughts also came from the fact that after owning 3 petrol cars (neither of them having an EGR valve) - my current Ford (diesel ) has it.
In the US of A, EGR has been a fact of life for gasoline autos since the mid 70s although those first generations of them were nothing like this one. They were run by vacuum hose eventually causing the EPA to mandate hose diagrams be attached under hood so that owners and mechanics alike had no valid excuse when caught with one unplugged as they often were in an effort to get better mileage and/or power. The good ol days when a dozen little hoses was called too complicated and today we have wire counts in harness nearing a hundred sometimes.
Not that it matters, since the valve is all 1 assembly, but would you suspect a flakey position sensor, or a weak EGR pintle return spring that is fluttering, and the sensor is just reporting it? I used to find that the return spring got weak a lot back in the day when Fords had the replaceable sensor on top. The sensor was fine, just doing its job... Anyway, nothing like a 100% confirmed fix.
I know this is old, but here is a reply: If you look at the original video the dropouts were to near 0 volts and they were not to the 1 V baseline the position sensor should bottom out at when the valve was closed. Therefore it was clearly an intermittent position sensor failure.
I am having hard time cleaning the lower intake manifold passage on this exact vehicle. I cleaned the passage in the plenum and put the new Wells EGR valve. There is a vacuum at the EGR port when I take it off but not enough to over rev the engine or stall it when forcing EGR valve to open. I have taken off the plenum twice in last two weeks and I would rather not have to do it again. I have watched BG Induction EGR cleaning video and I was wondering if I can feed similar 3M chemical through the EGR vacuum port. The passage on this vehicle is too convoluted so even the snake drill most likely will not go through. To take the manifold passage off the car is probably above my comfort level, so I am avoiding it. Mode $6 data clearly shows the EGR passage is blocked. What would you have done if you had found the passage blocked on that Odyssey?
i always take the intake manifold off, flip it over and see the carbon build up in the passage, get some card cleaner or brake cleaner and get a small pick set, start scraping the carbon and spray the cleaner in. you will know when you have cleared it because you can hear the spray through the other intake passages. its actually quite easy, just make sure when you put it back together to make sure it is all pretty clean and al the hoses and wiring is plugged back in. really not much to it.
South Main Auto Repair I just posted a video where I took this EGR valve apart (same model as yours). Mine was having a problem in the position sensor. ruclips.net/video/rHdcH26j9NY/видео.html
There is not many like you no parts canon just great work. I do hope your customers realise how good you are.
Eric, really appreciate you taking the time to post these videos. I really enjoy them. I've been retired since 08 but work out of my garage 3 or4 days a week. Nothing heavy anymore. Mostly elec. and a/c some diagnosing a few brake jobs struts here and there a ball joint or two. you have got me hooked but don't envy NY left there in 62 climate is a lot milder here in TX. thanks again.
Hey no problem George Heri . Glad I can provide someone with a little entertainment! I'd be working in my underwear in TX lol. Glad your still willing and able to get dirty!
Thanks for watching,
-Eric O.
Well done, verifying the repair , done once done right. As. dIY I get quite a bit of work from my local dealers that charge $125 an hour plus 13% tax. They seem to read a code a slap on a part. I just did a repair on a 2011 cobalt the dealer said was a evap purge solenoid , oh yeah I see it when the code comes back on, it was a open wire in the connector. Customer got hossed once and was afraid to go back an tell them what I found. Now she won't go back and the dealership will loose business. There's good techs there that suffer because of a bad apple or untrained. I don't want to slag the industry but I would say parts changers a quite common. Heck I don't mind it gives me some pocket change and repeat customers. Take Care Steve.
PS - the woman was not told the repair was covered under the warranty , her total bill was $165 - plus they kept her good solenoid and sold her another good solenoid.
Oh yeah I see it often to and a lot of my customers come about that way. The majority of shops in our area are suffering but thankfully we stay pretty steady year round with a good loyal customers base. Gotta beat that BOOK is the mentality most shops / techs have. Make as much as I can as fast as I can! Me... well I just wanna fix the damn car lol. Preferably on round one lol.
Unless things have changed, the biggest issue I saw when I was dealerships, was that warranty was not paying for diagnostics or troubleshooting separately. Whatever time you were paid for replacing a part included the diagnosis as well. Now back then you could get GM to go for a .5 hr driveability scan one time per car and you had to submit a worksheet as well. Warranty time did not pay squat to replace an egr valve like you just did and I can tell you confidently as a dealer tech you would of lost time on that repair. Got beat. Just getting the car off the lot, and going to the parts counter and back you'd of used the time they pay to replace that valve. Not making excuses for the dealer techs, but maybe if you went and worked at one for a month or two and saw what it was like, you'd have a better understanding why things are the way they are.
Thank you for being so thorough and taking your time to help the rest of us. I love RUclips for and appreciate all the people who post these kind of videos, but I gotta say, Eric you are the best! Thank you again.
Nothing like upstate NY in Feb. Just lovely.
As much as I fiend for your videos, I have to say "if I can do it, you can do it" doesn't ring true. You've got skills. Hell, I can't read no farking scan tool. I can't even spell EGR. And you've got some choice diagnostic toys. In any event, love your channel
+Silky Tp Haha thanks
Thanks for confirming the replacement.
I watched the 2 videos and I have to thank you for a wonderful job you've done. As I have a similar problem in my 2002 honda civic, can a bad EGR cause the car to run rich and effect fuel economy?
Love your videos and thorough troubleshooting and explanations. I don’t have an Odyssey but I watch those vids anyway to learn what may happen on my “new to me” 2006 Ridgeline. But I do have one question.
I’ve heard that Honda EGR systems (and some others) are fairly sensitive and it’s best to use OEM parts. I noticed you used a Wells EGR valve, so I assume you are fairly confident in their quality and they work well on Honda vehicles.
If Wells is good, what other suppliers do you use on Hondas and what suppliers would you avoid?
Thanks in advance!
great videos part 1 and 2 keep up the good work Eric O
love this video same thing happen in my 2000 honda odyssey thank you for the info. ireally appreciate.
I always thought that EGR valves are specific to Diesel engines (or turbocharged engines) - after a bit of research it seems I am definitely wrong. My thoughts also came from the fact that after owning 3 petrol cars (neither of them having an EGR valve) - my current Ford (diesel ) has it.
In the US of A, EGR has been a fact of life for gasoline autos since the mid 70s although those first generations of them were nothing like this one. They were run by vacuum hose eventually causing the EPA to mandate hose diagrams be attached under hood so that owners and mechanics alike had no valid excuse when caught with one unplugged as they often were in an effort to get better mileage and/or power. The good ol days when a dozen little hoses was called too complicated and today we have wire counts in harness nearing a hundred sometimes.
great work! got yourself a subscriber from cape cod m.a.
South main really like your show thumbs up, Knightdale,n.c.
Great.
Thanks!
Hey bud my check engine light just came on in my 03 odyssey. Is it ok to drive just briefly until i can get a mechanic
Great video you know cars keep up the good video.
Not that it matters, since the valve is all 1 assembly, but would you suspect a flakey position sensor, or a weak EGR pintle return spring that is fluttering, and the sensor is just reporting it? I used to find that the return spring got weak a lot back in the day when Fords had the replaceable sensor on top. The sensor was fine, just doing its job... Anyway, nothing like a 100% confirmed fix.
I know this is old, but here is a reply: If you look at the original video the dropouts were to near 0 volts and they were not to the 1 V baseline the position sensor should bottom out at when the valve was closed. Therefore it was clearly an intermittent position sensor failure.
Thanks for the video.
how much is that snap on computer you use
A new one might set ya back about $8500 to $9500 depending on the software bundle you get with it.
South Main Auto Repair holy crap i thought maybe $2000 max but 8 grand thats heaps
Yeah they are over rated really. I am sure there are scan tools just as good or better for less out there.
Thank you.
Nice fix!
I am having hard time cleaning the lower intake manifold passage on this exact vehicle. I cleaned the passage in the plenum and put the new Wells EGR valve. There is a vacuum at the EGR port when I take it off but not enough to over rev the engine or stall it when forcing EGR valve to open. I have taken off the plenum twice in last two weeks and I would rather not have to do it again. I have watched BG Induction EGR cleaning video and I was wondering if I can feed similar 3M chemical through the EGR vacuum port. The passage on this vehicle is too convoluted so even the snake drill most likely will not go through. To take the manifold passage off the car is probably above my comfort level, so I am avoiding it. Mode $6 data clearly shows the EGR passage is blocked.
What would you have done if you had found the passage blocked on that Odyssey?
i always take the intake manifold off, flip it over and see the carbon build up in the passage, get some card cleaner or brake cleaner and get a small pick set, start scraping the carbon and spray the cleaner in. you will know when you have cleared it because you can hear the spray through the other intake passages. its actually quite easy, just make sure when you put it back together to make sure it is all pretty clean and al the hoses and wiring is plugged back in. really not much to it.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
😎
South Main Auto Repair I just posted a video where I took this EGR valve apart (same model as yours). Mine was having a problem in the position sensor.
ruclips.net/video/rHdcH26j9NY/видео.html
Cool video thanks for sharing that!
+brian0918 Your video link is private and cannot be watched.