Oh you kid! You just saved me a few hundred dollars of mechanic's fees and unneeded new parts! I just performed this maintenance, cleaned out the valve with Q-tips and methanol. I finished it off by spraying some WD-40 in there and swabbing out all the excess. I also reamed out the EGR port, which I had to pay to have cleaned out a few years ago. It was well gummed up. Now my 1999 Honda Odyssey no longer "seeks" at idle! I reset the ECU error code, and now I need to drive it a bit before taking it in for its long-overdue smog check!
To save yourself a lot of work and trouble , just undo the 4 nuts holding the the throttle body on after removing the airbox leaving all the hoses etc intact . Just pull the manifold back away from the throttle body after disconnecting the IAT sensors , the 2 x 10 mm bolts holding the plate on and remove the large hose at the end . You can remove the screws with mole grips or by clamping in a vice and use stock or low head allen cap screws after so you can take it off without removing anything but the plug and hoses . The O rings are standard size NBR which you could upgrade for a few pence extra and there is nothing fancy in there as the black part is just a controllable solenoid winding which lifts the pintle when energised like on any other Honda IACV. While your manifold is off , check and clear the EGR passages if necessary .
For the IAC, you don't have to do all the disassembly. As per your video, remove the air box, remove the connection from the airbox to the throttle body (have to disconnect a few hoses from it), then disconnect the coolant hose from the bottom of the throttle body, undo the two nuts and two bolts holding the throttle body to the manifold and it'll slide off. Turn the throttle body upside down and unscrew (2 screws) the IAC.
And for the record, the cleaned IAC stopped working again two weeks later so I replaced with a refurb off eBay, which has been fine for a couple months.
@@PeterVieth And for the record, this video was for cleaning out the IAC and to clean the EGR ports so that's why he took all that crap off...😒 The video wasn't about YOUR car...
@@cumshot247 My comment started: "for the IAC, you don't have to do all the disassembly." So if someone with just IAC issues searches Odyssey IAC cleaning and this video pops up first like it did for me, they don't go through all the steps of taking the manifold apart. I suppose I should have known better than to respond in a YT comments section to someone with a username like yours. Happy Monday.
If you take the intake ( 4 bolts) off of the plimium, or manifold you my be able to get at that air intake vavle. However servicing EGR ports and channels is usually always required. Look to codes on how far to go?
Going to do the old seafoam treatment to get rid of check engine light for good though. Alot of trouble keeping EGR cleared. Out here in CA. RUNNING HIGH OCTANE SHOULD HELP TOO.
My experience: cleaning an IAC gets another month or two of operation before the thing quits again. For people who have successfully cleaned their IAC, how long did it work properly after the cleaning?
Informative presentation. Not impossible but not an easy task thanks to Honda engineering. How does the Idle Control Valve send a signal to the ECM? Is there a way to confirm the signal from the Idle Control Valve to the ECM without removing? Not much seemed to be gained by taking the ICV apart.
Hi. For my ody02. Only at cold start when idling, engine stutter and almost stalling, idles around 600, but everything runs OK after 10mins, idles normal around 750. No CEL. Thoughts?
Good morning, This video was very helpful on cleaing my 2000 Honda Idle control valve however my Idle control valve was not working effectively. I ended up replacing the idle control valve with a aftermarket part. What I noticed the vehicle. On the Cold morning start up there is no high idle. Any idea on adjusting the idle control valve for a higher lide?
I followed this but my idle in park revs by itself from 1-2k constantly. It drives around fine and reverses fine, but when parked the rpm goes up and down. Can you help? I ran a obd2 scan no codes.
There is/was nothing wrong with your IAC valve gasket. Lacquer thinner causes these rubber gaskets to swell. Notice how it fit again the next day when you came back to it and it was dried out. Next time just use carb cleaner and you won't have that problem
6:20.... the screws are JIS type from Japan (Toyota and Honda).... heads for those screws are NOT USA Phillips.... get a pair of bits for $8 in eBay. They will work fine and use a dab of Kroil or WD-40 at the base of the screws 30 minutes early to loosen them... Put ALL of the hose clamps back in place (see the center left screen)
Yes, if you own a Honda especially and plan on doing any work on them, get a JIS screwdriver. Vessel makes a good one with a striking plate at the end of it you can use a hammer on to get the rotors off your vehicle with.
+Augusto Quintero Are you sure you bleed your cooling system properly? Filled the radiator back up with coolant? The idle control valve has cooling lines going into it and is sensitive to coolant temp and air bubbles in those lines.
I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey with about 170K miles on it. The thing has run like a champ since I got it and never had a problem or broken down. But after almost a year of not being driven in the pandemic when I changed the battery and started it up, the idle speed changes regularly. It revs up and then slows down and then revs up again and slows down and continuously does that ... grrrrRRRR grrrrRRRR grrrrRRRR over and overwhile in Park or Neutral. It's pretty normal in Drive or Reverse. A guy told me it was probable the Idle Control Valve and I looked at some videos about how to do it, but I think it is too much for me. So I'm wondering how likely is that the problem, and how expensive is it to fix?
I keep getting P0108. I thought it was the MAP sensor but I changed that and the problem persists. It's doing pretty much what you described, idling between 1500-2000 RPMs. What should I do?
@@cookingwithjesus Technically if you rotate the bits in the right direction while inserting, it should pull out the carbon as opposed to pushing it in. Hell, now I have to try it and then finish it off with carb cleaner...
Hi by doing this method cleaning egr and idle control valve is this way gonna fix the problem of idle shaking when you start car in morning cause when start my car in the morning idle shake and when car is warm up everything is good idle no shaking please help thanks?
+Augusto Quintero Sounds like you bought a new IAC valve and your problem returned. Did you clean the EGR port as well? If the EGR passages are loaded with carbon, I'd imagine that your problem would return quickly.
Hi.I followed your step by step cleaning out my Idle control valve on my 2000 honda odyssey . I ended up replacing the oem with a after market part. I notice. the ldle very low when I turn on my Ac the RPM Went down to 200 Any idea on adjusting the Idle high?
I Bought the part in the auto zone and after one day of working fine tha idle start going up and down again so what I have to do now to be honest is driving me crazy , how I flush the air out of the coolant system
+Augusto Quintero I've got a video coming up for a full brake job on a Crown Victoria which should be a very similar setup to the Escape, with drum in hat rear rotors.
I have the identical Odyssey but unfortunately in my case the lower part of the EGR passage is plugged up. I have tried twice to clean it up but so far no dice.
+50sKid I don't see any downside. The probability that big chucks of carbons will come lose and enter plenum and get stuck on the intake valve seat preventing valve from closing is minuscule, right? Right??
That's the reason you clean it all out. Have you tried a drill bit already? Seemed to work well for me, just spinning it in by hand and cleaning the gunk out.
The plenum passage is fine. It is the one from the lower engine block to the EGR that is almost clogged.. Usually this does not clog but there have been few people who had the bad luck.
Hi I have this issue with the idle control valve that when you turn on the engine the idle is really low, I replace the idle control valve and now when you have the car in parking the idle goes up and down up and down if you can contact me and give a little help thank you.
Any time you take anything off the TB , or replace any part , clean any part , even changing the coolant, you have to do the COMPUTER RELEARN PROCESS.....
So that could be causing the problem with he idle going up and down? I did not do it but I'll do it today to see if that fix the problem, what else I should be doing?
Hey i have a question i have an ody 01 and since 2 moths when the cold started i noticed something it’s really annoying my van keep dying like soon i start rhe car the rmp goes 1,500 thats normal a few secons will slow down well stay there for a while but lets say if i turn on and start driving after a min from the start it die on me at the first traffic light or top i start right away but i have to put my foot on the gas n brake so keep it alive i replace map sensor tps have new pcv valve spark plugs clean the tb it only happen in the morning or whatever i left the car sit for a few hours when it get at the normal temperature works fine
cumshot247 it was well I didn’t fix it cause I ending up clashing on a electric pole but I did some research and it was something with a valve adjustment valve was out of clearance
You really missed a lot here... the motor you took off the TB, actuates a cylindrical valve inside the IAC. THAT valve gets carbon fouled and it's operation is what causes your idle to suffer. You needed to clean that carbon off the inside with carb cleaner until you had a smooth operation. Also, TSB 05-026 details how to install a kit to prevent EGR fouling (you were on the right track with the drill bit. You can do the IAC without taking the intake off...just the TB needs to come off. If you were going to do the service on the EGR, the kit for the service is needed, otherwise you're going to encounter the clogging. Thought, I think your main issue is the IAC valve body just needed a good cleaning.
+xr500t At 5:48 there is a msg saying I somehow missed the shot where I cleaned out the IAC with carb cleaner. Maybe you were skipping through the video or something? I know you can take the throttle body off without taking the manifold off but the TB gasket is kinda stuck and I can tell if I pull it off it'll tear and I'd have to replace it, so that's why I just remove the intake. I think I mentioned this in the video as well. Not big deal to me. The main issue was that the o-ring was blown, causing a tiny leak (and a high idle). The IAC valve is actually working fine. From what I read of the TSB when I originally encountered the EGR problem, they want you to dill the port out and install an insert. Didn't see how that would be very different from what is there now. Maybe it's a bit bigger or something? Seemed easier to me to clean it out with a drill bit in another 100k miles when it clogs again. How does the insert prevent clogging?
+50sKid You did a nice job with the video.... I was pointing to the operation of the valve inside the body of the IAC. This is huge in controlling your idle. You used lacquer thinner and a brillo pad(not a problem)to clean the gasket surface, however I did not see the cleaning of the inside of the valve body where the valve is located. That valve is spun by the motor and the carbon build up, hurts the operation. In addition, the TB itself can use a cleaning as as well. Thought it's tough to get it squeaky clean. BTW, you can test a vacuum leak by spraying carb cleaner in the suspect area. I would have been more concerned with ripping the intake manifold gasket than the TB gasket (you can make your own with gasket material, it's a smaller surface than the intake, easier to get to and easier to fix.). If you're careful, this gasket will not be damaged, and can be re-used. The EGR tube kit is made of teflon, and may be to mitigate exhaust gas temperature when the car is cold. I think a cleaning of the port every so often works as well.
+xr500t Nah if it's teflon then it's designed not to cause carbon build up. It's hard for stuff to stick to teflon. That's why they use it in pots and pans. The gaskets are super cheap--I just didn't want to run out at the time I was filming, lol.
+50sKid, my 2000 odysssey has a 3.5 VTEC, 193821 miles,TCS light popped on a few days back while at stop sign. when i accelerated, it hesitated then drove ok. i checked and cleaned the plugs and this evening i cleaned out the EGV valve and light is still on. clean out the manifold (EGV port) and new spark plugs will be done tomorrow. i haven't got any codes yet cause i cant find a reasonable honest mechanic. my idle is fine, just under 1000, i did replace alternator and battery last week. im asking you what would be my next move? thanks 50's kid
Okay so my van just recently started whenever you're driving the RPMs go real high and the car wants to slow down and then sometimes it don't want to shift past drive I have heard that it could be two different things one could be the torque converter or the other one can be the transmission gear solenoid I am not really for sure does anybody have any answer for this
I like tutorial video that right down to the dirty work, thank you Sir. Will subscribe and see your other vids about this car ( got it for free from my cousin-in-law ).
Did you have a TCS light with this and Hard Reverse shift? along with the p401 I replaced the egr a long time ago and I have been having the same codes since. I did the Egr port cleaning as well and still have these issue since last year. will the high Idle also have issues with shifting. I noticed when its not acting up I have better shifting results.
+NeekafiedGamer No TCS light when I did it. P0401 technically means insufficient EGR flow, but that doesn't necessarily mean the EGR passage is clogged up. It could mean that the EGR valve isn't opening as far as it is being commanded to by the computer. You have two options, you can try replacing the valve now or you can wait 2 weeks for a video I have coming up on diagnosing a bad EGR valve on this vehicle.
+50sKid yeah will do man! I'm tired of working on this thing. I'm also wondering maybe this is why the dealer was so pushy to sell this to me Lol.. oh well.
+MsgtDonutGames Did you fix it yet? If you P0401 is not going away and if the van does not tall after applying 12V directly to the disconnected EGR valve, your have got the blockage in the path from the valve to the intake plenum. I have been battling this for weeks.
Easy as you make it look, problem with that is pros make what ever they do look easy, lol great video, thanks for sharing, much appreciated...K,O,with a standing 10 , or a 9 point 9,5
+Augusto Quintero OEM (original equipment manufacturer) means you bought the part from the Honda dealer. If you bought it at an auto parts store, it's likely an aftermarket brand, also called "OE" (original equipment). Aftermarket parts sometimes don't function correctly.
Many OEM parts are made by “aftermarket” manufacturers. Bosch, SD, ND (Nippon Denso) & others often make the same specialized electronic or mechanical parts for the Auto manufacturer as the auto parts place. If the part says OEM it normally is made by the same place. If it says also fits it is from someone else. May work as well, but is not who the manufacturer chose for whatever reason. BTW, very thorough video! You got access to IAC, EGR & Throttle body all at the same time.i also like your suggestion to take a photo beforehand to be sure everything connects back the same as it came off.
@@danielmag626 You're right! Don't know what I was thinking at that particular time.🤦♂️ He's actually cleaning the port at 8:01😁 Gonna leave my comment up there to show that drinking may cause situations like this...🤔
While cleaning out the EGR port, where did all the crud go when rimming it with the drill bits? Did it just all fall inside? And is that ok? What if I just blast it with carb cleaner? Thanks!
@@cumshot247 but ya got nuthin yourself, huh/eh?. Wouldn't know engine damage if it was 'splained to ya, given u didn't answer the OP's question about where all the crud and harsh stuff goes when reaming out the EGR passages.
My 2002 Odyssey has a different valve cover, not sure if it will come right off like yours. And that last part you removed to get to the o-ring, was there anything to clean in there?
Oh you kid! You just saved me a few hundred dollars of mechanic's fees and unneeded new parts! I just performed this maintenance, cleaned out the valve with Q-tips and methanol. I finished it off by spraying some WD-40 in there and swabbing out all the excess. I also reamed out the EGR port, which I had to pay to have cleaned out a few years ago. It was well gummed up. Now my 1999 Honda Odyssey no longer "seeks" at idle! I reset the ECU error code, and now I need to drive it a bit before taking it in for its long-overdue smog check!
To save yourself a lot of work and trouble , just undo the 4 nuts holding the the throttle body on after removing the airbox leaving all the hoses etc intact . Just pull the manifold back away from the throttle body after disconnecting the IAT sensors , the 2 x 10 mm bolts holding the plate on and remove the large hose at the end .
You can remove the screws with mole grips or by clamping in a vice and use stock or low head allen cap screws after so you can take it off without removing anything but the plug and hoses . The O rings are standard size NBR which you could upgrade for a few pence extra and there is nothing fancy in there as the black part is just a controllable solenoid winding which lifts the pintle when energised like on any other Honda IACV. While your manifold is off , check and clear the EGR passages if necessary .
Thank you for your recommendation I was thinking the same procedure but I'm just learning again since I'm 60 😢
For the IAC, you don't have to do all the disassembly. As per your video, remove the air box, remove the connection from the airbox to the throttle body (have to disconnect a few hoses from it), then disconnect the coolant hose from the bottom of the throttle body, undo the two nuts and two bolts holding the throttle body to the manifold and it'll slide off. Turn the throttle body upside down and unscrew (2 screws) the IAC.
And then how do you clean out the EGR ports???
@@cumshot247 you don't. The car I was working on did not have EGR problems, just a broken IAC, so I didn't want to do the extra work.
And for the record, the cleaned IAC stopped working again two weeks later so I replaced with a refurb off eBay, which has been fine for a couple months.
@@PeterVieth And for the record, this video was for cleaning out the IAC and to clean the EGR ports so that's why he took all that crap off...😒 The video wasn't about YOUR car...
@@cumshot247 My comment started: "for the IAC, you don't have to do all the disassembly." So if someone with just IAC issues searches Odyssey IAC cleaning and this video pops up first like it did for me, they don't go through all the steps of taking the manifold apart. I suppose I should have known better than to respond in a YT comments section to someone with a username like yours. Happy Monday.
You can slot those AIC screw heads with a dremel, they come out like regular screws .. then blow it out with WE40. It cleans up easily.
Use a dremel or grinder and cut slots for a flathead screwdriver in the security screws for the IAC
If you take the intake ( 4 bolts) off of the plimium, or manifold you my be able to get at that air intake vavle. However servicing EGR ports and channels is usually always required. Look to codes on how far to go?
Going to do the old seafoam treatment to get rid of check engine light for good though. Alot of trouble keeping EGR cleared. Out here in CA. RUNNING HIGH OCTANE SHOULD HELP TOO.
My experience: cleaning an IAC gets another month or two of operation before the thing quits again. For people who have successfully cleaned their IAC, how long did it work properly after the cleaning?
I just did it, I'll let you know! ;-)
Informative presentation. Not impossible but not an easy task thanks to Honda engineering.
How does the Idle Control Valve send a signal to the ECM?
Is there a way to confirm the signal from the Idle Control Valve to the ECM without removing?
Not much seemed to be gained by taking the ICV apart.
Hi. For my ody02. Only at cold start when idling, engine stutter and almost stalling, idles around 600, but everything runs OK after 10mins, idles normal around 750. No CEL. Thoughts?
Good morning, This video was very helpful on cleaing my 2000 Honda Idle control valve however my Idle control valve was not working effectively. I ended up replacing the idle control valve with a aftermarket part. What I noticed the vehicle. On the Cold morning start up there is no high idle. Any idea on adjusting the idle control valve for a higher lide?
This guy “ nailed it”! I watched his video a couple times, then went for it. Saved myself $100’s 😎. Much appreciated!
Can I just use a pipe brush to clean the valve?
Great video 👍 How many miles is on your van?
What about the bottom port of EGR?
My 2005 Honda odyssey does not have this part or the cables so where is this part on mine please
I followed this but my idle in park revs by itself from 1-2k constantly.
It drives around fine and reverses fine, but when parked the rpm goes up and down.
Can you help?
I ran a obd2 scan no codes.
Did you replace the idle air control valve? or you mighthave a vacuum leak, let me know how you do
There is/was nothing wrong with your IAC valve gasket. Lacquer thinner causes these rubber gaskets to swell. Notice how it fit again the next day when you came back to it and it was dried out. Next time just use carb cleaner and you won't have that problem
6:20.... the screws are JIS type from Japan (Toyota and Honda).... heads for those screws are NOT USA Phillips.... get a pair of bits for $8 in eBay. They will work fine and use a dab of Kroil or WD-40 at the base of the screws 30 minutes early to loosen them... Put ALL of the hose clamps back in place (see the center left screen)
Yes, if you own a Honda especially and plan on doing any work on them, get a JIS screwdriver. Vessel makes a good one with a striking plate at the end of it you can use a hammer on to get the rotors off your vehicle with.
The part that you remove is the same that I replace but now the idle is going up and down
+Augusto Quintero Are you sure you bleed your cooling system properly? Filled the radiator back up with coolant? The idle control valve has cooling lines going into it and is sensitive to coolant temp and air bubbles in those lines.
I have a 2002 Honda Odyssey with about 170K miles on it. The thing has run like a champ since I got it and never had a problem or broken down. But after almost a year of not being driven in the pandemic when I changed the battery and started it up, the idle speed changes regularly. It revs up and then slows down and then revs up again and slows down and continuously does that ... grrrrRRRR grrrrRRRR grrrrRRRR over and overwhile in Park or Neutral. It's pretty normal in Drive or Reverse. A guy told me it was probable the Idle Control Valve and I looked at some videos about how to do it, but I think it is too much for me. So I'm wondering how likely is that the problem, and how expensive is it to fix?
It’s basically what you saw in this video or it’s a clogged EGR port which I believe I also talked about here
Awesome video! Very accurate and thorough. Most helpful. Thanks!
I keep getting P0108. I thought it was the MAP sensor but I changed that and the problem persists. It's doing pretty much what you described, idling between 1500-2000 RPMs. What should I do?
You should find out what a PO108 code is!
will cleaning egr ports just push the carbon somewhere else and damage my engine??
No, but I would suggest using a throttle body cleaner spray and an old toothbrush instead of drill bits and steel wool.
@@cookingwithjesus Technically if you rotate the bits in the right direction while inserting, it should pull out the carbon as opposed to pushing it in. Hell, now I have to try it and then finish it off with carb cleaner...
This is over my head. How much would a shop charge? $500?😫😫😫
Hi by doing this method cleaning egr and idle control valve is this way gonna fix the problem of idle shaking when you start car in morning cause when start my car in the morning idle shake and when car is warm up everything is good idle no shaking please help thanks?
Sounds like you have a vacuum leak somewhere. I would recommend getting a smoke test to find where it is.
I also have a video on making your own smoke tester.
Seafoam treatment cleared everything up for me
So what should I do now?? I bought in the auto parts works fine for a day and then keep doing the same
+Augusto Quintero I don't understand what you said.
+Augusto Quintero Sounds like you bought a new IAC valve and your problem returned. Did you clean the EGR port as well? If the EGR passages are loaded with carbon, I'd imagine that your problem would return quickly.
Or maybe your problem is something else??? MAP sensor? Bad Coil? Clogged fuel injector, Gremlins...
Hi.I followed your step by step cleaning out my Idle control valve on my 2000 honda odyssey . I ended up replacing the oem with a after market part. I notice. the ldle very low when I turn on my Ac the RPM Went down to 200 Any idea on adjusting the Idle high?
I Bought the part in the auto zone and after one day of working fine tha idle start going up and down again so what I have to do now to be honest is driving me crazy , how I flush the air out of the coolant system
Go to that little box up there ^^^ that says "search" and type in "how I flush the air out of the coolant system"
thank you man!!! I bet that's my same problem. I will try this before heading to the part store.
i demo the Idle and clean pretywell but dont wok
Do you have something on how replace the rotors to a Ford Escape 2008??
+Augusto Quintero I've got a video coming up for a full brake job on a Crown Victoria which should be a very similar setup to the Escape, with drum in hat rear rotors.
Yeah buy a Chevrolet.
@@50sKid Or he can just look up "How replace the rotors on a 2008 Ford Escape 2008" wtf...
I have the identical Odyssey but unfortunately in my case the lower part of the EGR passage is plugged up. I have tried twice to clean it up but so far no dice.
use a thick wire to poke a hole through it and gouge out the carbon.
+12vgs8606 You need a good solvent. Just use some throttle body cleaner.
+50sKid I don't see any downside. The probability that big chucks of carbons will come lose and enter plenum and get stuck on the intake valve seat preventing valve from closing is minuscule, right? Right??
That's the reason you clean it all out. Have you tried a drill bit already? Seemed to work well for me, just spinning it in by hand and cleaning the gunk out.
The plenum passage is fine. It is the one from the lower engine block to the EGR that is almost clogged.. Usually this does not clog but there have been few people who had the bad luck.
Hi I have this issue with the idle control valve that when you turn on the engine the idle is really low, I replace the idle control valve and now when you have the car in parking the idle goes up and down up and down if you can contact me and give a little help thank you.
+Augusto Quintero Did you replace it with an OEM idle control valve?
Any time you take anything off the TB , or replace any part , clean any part , even changing the coolant, you have to do the COMPUTER RELEARN PROCESS.....
I did this but now getting misfire codes, p0301, p0304, p0305
So that could be causing the problem with he idle going up and down? I did not do it but I'll do it today to see if that fix the problem, what else I should be doing?
You need to clean the passage from the manifold port, through the block , to the EGR valve. Use an old speedometer cable on a drill.
That was already done prior to this. The problem in this case was the popped out o-ring/gasket.
How long of a cable would you need? About a foot???
@@cumshot247 2.5 3 ft
@@danblake3265 um, is that 2 1/2 to 3 ft?
@@cumshot247 yes
Hey i have a question i have an ody 01 and since 2 moths when the cold started i noticed something it’s really annoying my van keep dying like soon i start rhe car the rmp goes 1,500 thats normal a few secons will slow down well stay there for a while but lets say if i turn on and start driving after a min from the start it die on me at the first traffic light or top i start right away but i have to put my foot on the gas n brake so keep it alive i replace map sensor tps have new pcv valve spark plugs clean the tb it only happen in the morning or whatever i left the car sit for a few hours when it get at the normal temperature works fine
Did you find out what it was? Or did you just move to California?
cumshot247 it was well I didn’t fix it cause I ending up clashing on a electric pole but I did some research and it was something with a valve adjustment valve was out of clearance
You really missed a lot here... the motor you took off the TB, actuates a cylindrical valve inside the IAC. THAT valve gets carbon fouled and it's operation is what causes your idle to suffer. You needed to clean that carbon off the inside with carb cleaner until you had a smooth operation. Also, TSB 05-026 details how to install a kit to prevent EGR fouling (you were on the right track with the drill bit.
You can do the IAC without taking the intake off...just the TB needs to come off. If you were going to do the service on the EGR, the kit for the service is needed, otherwise you're going to encounter the clogging. Thought, I think your main issue is the IAC valve body just needed a good cleaning.
+xr500t At 5:48 there is a msg saying I somehow missed the shot where I cleaned out the IAC with carb cleaner. Maybe you were skipping through the video or something? I know you can take the throttle body off without taking the manifold off but the TB gasket is kinda stuck and I can tell if I pull it off it'll tear and I'd have to replace it, so that's why I just remove the intake. I think I mentioned this in the video as well. Not big deal to me. The main issue was that the o-ring was blown, causing a tiny leak (and a high idle). The IAC valve is actually working fine. From what I read of the TSB when I originally encountered the EGR problem, they want you to dill the port out and install an insert. Didn't see how that would be very different from what is there now. Maybe it's a bit bigger or something? Seemed easier to me to clean it out with a drill bit in another 100k miles when it clogs again. How does the insert prevent clogging?
+50sKid You did a nice job with the video.... I was pointing to the operation of the valve inside the body of the IAC. This is huge in controlling your idle. You used lacquer thinner and a brillo pad(not a problem)to clean the gasket surface, however I did not see the cleaning of the inside of the valve body where the valve is located. That valve is spun by the motor and the carbon build up, hurts the operation. In addition, the TB itself can use a cleaning as as well. Thought it's tough to get it squeaky clean. BTW, you can test a vacuum leak by spraying carb cleaner in the suspect area.
I would have been more concerned with ripping the intake manifold gasket than the TB gasket (you can make your own with gasket material, it's a smaller surface than the intake, easier to get to and easier to fix.). If you're careful, this gasket will not be damaged, and can be re-used.
The EGR tube kit is made of teflon, and may be to mitigate exhaust gas temperature when the car is cold. I think a cleaning of the port every so often works as well.
+xr500t Nah if it's teflon then it's designed not to cause carbon build up. It's hard for stuff to stick to teflon. That's why they use it in pots and pans. The gaskets are super cheap--I just didn't want to run out at the time I was filming, lol.
+50sKid, my 2000 odysssey has a 3.5 VTEC, 193821 miles,TCS light popped on a few days back while at stop sign. when i accelerated, it hesitated then drove ok. i checked and cleaned the plugs and this evening i cleaned out the EGV valve and light is still on. clean out the manifold (EGV port) and new spark plugs will be done tomorrow. i haven't got any codes yet cause i cant find a reasonable honest mechanic. my idle is fine, just under 1000, i did replace alternator and battery last week. im asking you what would be my next move? thanks 50's kid
Okay so my van just recently started whenever you're driving the RPMs go real high and the car wants to slow down and then sometimes it don't want to shift past drive I have heard that it could be two different things one could be the torque converter or the other one can be the transmission gear solenoid I am not really for sure does anybody have any answer for this
Amy Barraza did u figure it out?
@@MRCALIEMS She prolly has one of them Smart cars that drive by themselves. She just don't know it yet...
Will be doing this to my odyssey soon.
I like tutorial video that right down to the dirty work, thank you Sir. Will subscribe and see your other vids about this car ( got it for free from my cousin-in-law ).
Did you have a TCS light with this and Hard Reverse shift? along with the p401 I replaced the egr a long time ago and I have been having the same codes since. I did the Egr port cleaning as well and still have these issue since last year. will the high Idle also have issues with shifting. I noticed when its not acting up I have better shifting results.
+NeekafiedGamer No TCS light when I did it. P0401 technically means insufficient EGR flow, but that doesn't necessarily mean the EGR passage is clogged up. It could mean that the EGR valve isn't opening as far as it is being commanded to by the computer. You have two options, you can try replacing the valve now or you can wait 2 weeks for a video I have coming up on diagnosing a bad EGR valve on this vehicle.
+50sKid yeah will do man! I'm tired of working on this thing. I'm also wondering maybe this is why the dealer was so pushy to sell this to me Lol.. oh well.
+MsgtDonutGames Did you fix it yet? If you P0401 is not going away and if the van does not tall after applying 12V directly to the disconnected EGR valve, your have got the blockage in the path from the valve to the intake plenum. I have been battling this for weeks.
MsgtDonutGames did u figure out the TCS light problem
Did u figure out the TCS light problem? Im struggling with the same issue right now. I just don't know what route to go to fix it.
I have a deep odyssey that you have this same problem this video helped me
pretty super
You didn't remove the egr and clean ports
Easy as you make it look, problem with that is pros make what ever they do look easy, lol great video, thanks for sharing, much appreciated...K,O,with a standing 10 , or a 9 point 9,5
I have Honda Odyssey 2000 and make all the step you said at the video
And what is a OEM?
+Augusto Quintero OEM (original equipment manufacturer) means you bought the part from the Honda dealer. If you bought it at an auto parts store, it's likely an aftermarket brand, also called "OE" (original equipment). Aftermarket parts sometimes don't function correctly.
Many OEM parts are made by “aftermarket” manufacturers. Bosch, SD, ND (Nippon Denso) & others often make the same specialized electronic or mechanical parts for the Auto manufacturer as the auto parts place. If the part says OEM it normally is made by the same place. If it says also fits it is from someone else. May work as well, but is not who the manufacturer chose for whatever reason.
BTW, very thorough video! You got access to IAC, EGR & Throttle body all at the same time.i also like your suggestion to take a photo beforehand to be sure everything connects back the same as it came off.
I clean all the Carburator part look like a new but dont work
Maybe the problem is something else?
Thank you very much. Exactly symptoms my odyssey.
do you no how much it would cost at a shop my EGR is gone on my 99 Honda prelude
Try calling the shop...
the "pentalobe" screws... aren't those standard torx?
nope
I don’t believe he bought a new air filter, lol 😂
Pero a la valvula egr nisiqueira le puso la mano
you forgot to clean the egr you said you would...
What??? You didn't see the difference between 5:21 and 6:12? You wanna borrow my glasses?
@@cumshot247 that was the IAC valve not the EGR valve
@@danielmag626 You're right! Don't know what I was thinking at that particular time.🤦♂️ He's actually cleaning the port at 8:01😁 Gonna leave my comment up there to show that drinking may cause situations like this...🤔
0:49 seconds
should disconnect the battery with that repair.
+jason bevilacqua Why? The connector gets unplugged.
like your videos good work
lol nvmd 8:15
They call them torx bits ..
Junk the Honda , buy a Toyota...
Honda great motorcycle's. !!!
While cleaning out the EGR port, where did all the crud go when rimming it with the drill bits? Did it just all fall inside? And is that ok? What if I just blast it with carb cleaner? Thanks!
You're cute...
@@cumshot247 but ya got nuthin yourself, huh/eh?. Wouldn't know engine damage if it was 'splained to ya, given u didn't answer the OP's question about where all the crud and harsh stuff goes when reaming out the EGR passages.
My 2002 Odyssey has a different valve cover, not sure if it will come right off like yours. And that last part you removed to get to the o-ring, was there anything to clean in there?