Good Attention to detail, and good tips, yes it could be shorter and some may say to long of a video(like first 5 minutes to get to snorkle removal, but this is what you need for doing it the first time, even gives fastener sizes, I was actually doing this on a pilot which appears more identical to this than all the accord videos out there, maybe add the word pilot or engine size to the title to get more views, also i had to skip through it so i did not see if any recommendation to clean the throttle body while doing this(was it in there?), but sure seems like a good time to do it while you have it all opened up/notice carbon build up. Also does not mention just cleaning the IACV as an option but as low price as aftermarket parts are I also opted to just replace the IACV, at first I was hoping to not have to remove throttle body to replace IACV but seems to hard considering IACV fasteners are upside down phillips and locating gasket correctly. Also startup at end you say good its smooth now, mine was not rough idle, but clearly demonstrating the computer not being able to adjust for a sticking IACV cycleing up and down between 750 to 1500 rpm at regular intervals and only when IACV is active, (In N and Park) and also OBD code read confirmed bad IACV, Sorry if TMI! Good video don't stop making them in this throw away world where everybody just toss vs. fixing!
@@bobaganoosh88 Unfortunatelly no engine light. Until I decided to unplug the sensor on top, took it out, cleaned it and put back on. Now I have an engine light... Will read the code to see what it says. But it was idling above 2500 for over a week with out throwing an engine light. Thanks for the follow up. I just watched your video again for 3rd time to see if I missed something... LOL
@@bobaganoosh88 Ohh well, after I started the car next day no engine light anymore. I've been using for short errands (about 60 miles) for the last week and no engine light. I notice that sometimes goes down to 1200 or 1600. But still running very high rpm.
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It’s almost like I need to pay you, your def gonna be on my phone under the hood changing the IAC this afternoon👍🏽👍🏽
@@jgarcia7223 glad I can help from way over here!
Nice!!! Thanks
I couldn’t hear your full audio, but did you say if it is possible to remove the iac without having to take the full throttle body off?
Thanks for sharing 👍 God bless you
Thank you I saved my dad a few hundred bucks
Good Attention to detail, and good tips, yes it could be shorter and some may say to long of a video(like first 5 minutes to get to snorkle removal, but this is what you need for doing it the first time, even gives fastener sizes, I was actually doing this on a pilot which appears more identical to this than all the accord videos out there, maybe add the word pilot or engine size to the title to get more views, also i had to skip through it so i did not see if any recommendation to clean the throttle body while doing this(was it in there?), but sure seems like a good time to do it while you have it all opened up/notice carbon build up. Also does not mention just cleaning the IACV as an option but as low price as aftermarket parts are I also opted to just replace the IACV, at first I was hoping to not have to remove throttle body to replace IACV but seems to hard considering IACV fasteners are upside down phillips and locating gasket correctly. Also startup at end you say good its smooth now, mine was not rough idle, but clearly demonstrating the computer not being able to adjust for a sticking IACV cycleing up and down between 750 to 1500 rpm at regular intervals and only when IACV is active, (In N and Park) and also OBD code read confirmed bad IACV, Sorry if TMI! Good video don't stop making them in this throw away world where everybody just toss vs. fixing!
Awesome good job 👍
Thx !
great video, and great explanation. My problem is that my Oddy 01 stays fixed above 2000 rpm even though I changed the valve already.
Is there an engine light? If so can you read the codes?
@@bobaganoosh88 Unfortunatelly no engine light. Until I decided to unplug the sensor on top, took it out, cleaned it and put back on. Now I have an engine light... Will read the code to see what it says. But it was idling above 2500 for over a week with out throwing an engine light.
Thanks for the follow up. I just watched your video again for 3rd time to see if I missed something... LOL
@@bobaganoosh88 Ohh well, after I started the car next day no engine light anymore. I've been using for short errands (about 60 miles) for the last week and no engine light. I notice that sometimes goes down to 1200 or 1600. But still running very high rpm.
@@alekshernandez2 check the floor mats. i know it sounds weird but they get stuck on the gas pedal all the time.
سيظهر النص الذي تقوم بنسخه هنا تلقائيًا
Video Audio crapped out completely at about the 10 minute mark.
Yeah it stops for about 3 minutes. I didn't realize until I had already posted the video.. fml 😆