Does this Intake Valve Cleaner Really Work? Proof, Before & After / Clean carbon from intake valves
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
- Does this intake valve cleaner really work? I show proof before & after using the CRC intake valve cleaner to clean carbon from intake valves on the 2017 Accord which a GDI engine. Cleaning carbon from intake valves is must-do maintenance on GDI engines. A GDI intake valve cleaner is very attractive since it doesn't require disassembly for walnut blasting, however, do intake valve cleaners really work or is disassembly a must for removing carbon deposits from intake valves in GDI engine?
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Timestamps:
0:00 - Intro
0:36 - Intake valves before
1:21 - Cleaning procedure
2:23 - Spirited drive
3:12 - Intake valves after
3:52 - Final take
#carboncleaning #intakevalve #diyautoworksng #diymechanic #diycarrepair #tuneup 
Авто/Мото
What's your preferred cleaner or method for the intake valves? Do you think this performance is worth buying the CRC intake valve cleaner? 🤔
Best way is to pull the intake and blast the valves with walnut shells. There’s no magic bullet to clean those. 8-(
try another cleaner..that has a better reputation..crc has been shown to be less effective in other videos..find one that some big name auto shops use like Big O or NTB. good video.
Thanks, mate. What's the full meaning of big O and NTB?
@@DIYAutoworksNG in the USA they are tire service and auto maintenance shops ..so they will do that service you just performed but use a big name cleaner.
Okay. Thanks.
The reason the valves looked slightly cleaner after those several days is because the CRC cleaner actually states that it continues to clean over the next few days following the initial application of it. Every video I watch is so critical of the results of these products they expect it to remove intake valve carbon deposits and restore them to like new condition just because the picture on the can shows it like that but nothing except an actual walnut blasting service will remove carbon deposits from intake valves enough to make any real difference and the results of these store bought products cannot produce results to that of a walnut blasting service. It's expensive but walnut blasting is worth the price I get it done on my WRX every 20K but of course I'm an auto shop manager so I barely pay anything to do it myself at work lol. But I do use these chemical products in between walnut blasting every 20k miles or so at each oil change and I perform full service oil changes every 2K miles so at each service I run a can of it thru as a way to keep the intake valves and system clean and maintained to prevent further buildup. So a walnut blasting service every 20K with a can of CRC every oil change every 2K to keep it clean. Of course I'm very anal about overly frequent service but it barely costs me anything cuz I manage a service shop but it's a good plan to follow for anyone. But only a walnut blasting will truly remove deposits these cans of cleaners can keep the intake valves clean but they won't actually deep clean anything I mean think about how insanely hard carbon is and how stubborn it is to remove it requires strong but safe abrasive cleaning action like walnut shell media shooting at it under crazy high pressure at close range to get that crap off the valves no store bought cleaner is gona do anything like that lol
Good observations. Don't get me wrong this product clearly works, it's the claim that CRC has boldly written on it that people haven't been able to reproduce; "removes 46% buildup in 1 HR", plus as you say, that night and day image on the can. I still use it every oil change to at least keep that build up under control.
The videography of the valves is very good. I am certain that the product will clean the residue off of the ports before it cleans the valves.
Thanks, mate.
Your logic checks out, since the product will likely hit the intake ports before the valves.
Excellent video, sir. Very informative and to the point. Thank you
You're welcome. Thanks!
It says give it 1000 miles to get cleaned i assume ut weakens carbon and over time bits of it break apart. Also probably 3 cans will make a decent difference?
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it!
I got better results after doing it again 2 weeks later.
That's interesting. You visualized via borescope for the results or judged by response of the motor?
good to know!
Neat study, I like how you present your vids. I wish I knew, but you did give those intake valves, and ports a wet look. Now I can't help but wonder if that carbon will eventually come off over a month or several months since the carbon is now 'wetted' and saturated with whatever chemical was in the CRC cleaner. Great vid. Liked👍
Many thanks. I like your logic on whether it would continue to clean. I'll give it another exam and see if there's any additional cleaning. Thanks a lot for the suggestion!
Its stated by CRC that you get best results by using your car as much as possible after using the intake cleaner. I'm doing it today i'll update how it goes.
I agree with veganlogic4empathy, I also like how you present your videos. Thank you
Thanks for taking the time to comment!
I've used two cans in the past two weeks , one can each week . I definitely could feel my car running smoother and quicker acceleration . I sprayed both times through the disconnected hose from the brake booster . I started my car and then put a wooden rod from the edge of drivers seat to gas pedal , moving the seat forward until 2500 RPMs . I was continually spraying it and car didn't stall out , but kept running niormally . Now I will try Berryman's Valve cleaner .
Interesting. Looks like you read my mind. I plan to do just the same, 2 cans, 2 weeks apart before my next oil change. Definitely doing a video on it!
@@DIYAutoworksNG It seems that on RUclips people have the best success with CRC .
@@DIYAutoworksNG With the berryman I will use the plastic tubing to inject directly into the throttle body , engine running of course .
@peterrudy9207 very correct. The other one that seems quite good is the Berryman. Let me know how it goes when you try it.
@@DIYAutoworksNG This past week I used the Berryman B-12 intake valve cleaner . I applied it into the throttle body as best suggestion . Be sure to press hard down on the press tab until it clicks , and fluid starts flowing . Then got back in car to keep gas pedal at 2000-2500 RPMs and it seemed to take at least 15 minutes before used up . I could not tell as I sat in drivers seat if it was still flowing , so got out and checked at various times . If they would put a dye in it , green or red to easily tell that it was still flowing and then stopped to see clear hose . I noticed smoke , bluish coming from tailpipe and strong chemical smell . When I went for a drive after waiting 30 minutes as said . At first traffic light , engine wanted to stall . So I put foot on brake pedal and other on gas pedal giving gas until light changed to green . Then there was so problem , acceleration and power seemed to be better with CRC Intake Valve Cleaner . Though I expect it was that the valves at that time had been dirtier . Though I will use Berrymans again it as I think it is carbon being burned off in exhaust . Since I was under the hood spraying CRC into the hose disconnected from the brake booster , I could not see the exhaust .
I agree. After watching some other videos on RUclips and yours, I appreciate your Honesty, it's clear that using GDI cleaner from a can is not a big improvement. I'd say, unless you are having actual issues with Carbon Build-up like hard starts, misfiring, poor acceleration, etc., then just leave it be. And if you need a cleaning then spend the money and time and remove the Intake Manifold and get inside there and scrub them clean the right way.
I got a Liqui Moly intake cleaner that I'm keen to test. Will see how that does.
I think the best is walnut shell blasting
Absolutely! Just that some people either can't do it or have the service accessible via shops in their localities.
Amazing info. Which valve cleaner is recommended for Toyota cars. Also is there a way to use without the technically skills you used in this video? There are loads of product sold at gas stations and they simply empty the contents into the fuel thank 🤔
Thanks, mate.
It depends on your Toyota. Some newer models have dual injection (port injection plus GDI). If that's the case, the gas tank approach will work quite well.
In summery...it doesn't clean well enough, it's a waste of time. The ONLY way is to manually clean and intake manifold MUST be removed along with a whole lot of other related parts to properly clean the back of valves AND the intake ports. It's a rather time consuming (and expensive) process. Walnut blasting is the standard for this procedure.
Mechanical cleaning is seeming to be the conclusion, which I may eventually get to. I have one more target chemical cleaning product before I go mechanical!
It might work for maintenance if you did it from new but yea you're right. Once its bad. Manual is it.
Dude, they did this for a reason.
You don't want to clog your CC, they make it not clean well enough for a reason
I just put CRC into my car with 157K miles and it was like a miracle. I get if I had it manually scraped, or walnut cleaned it would be better, but I have to say after waiting the hour and driving the 10 minutes, my car no longer has rough idle, or the ticky valve sound and my mileage has improved considerably. Not perfect, yeah you are right, but compared so some of the other crap they sell you for your car, at least this does something noticeable and it is a lot cheaper than having the mechanic spend a few hours futzing around my car. Besides I did take it to the mechanic complaining about poor mileage, and the mechanic just did all the things I did already (check plugs, make sure O2 sensors were in tolerance ...) and charged me $150. I did get an oil change out of it.
@markmccraley2559 I agree. Definitely much better than doing nothing and a lot of the snake oil stuff out there.
Very nce test. I've seen similiar one on AliMECH channel and results were equally pathetic. I have 1.6 N14 engine [aka THP] and recently sprayed a can of Xado Anticarbon through a PCV hose, seems like done something, but I do it only preventively, my valves were cleaned mechanically 4000km ago. I can recommend Xado, it's really serious chemical agent.
Thanks for sharing. Yea, definitely doesn't clean as much as it claims. Just hearing of Xado for the first time. I'll look out for it. I will also be testing a couple more intake cleaners. I've seen a spray solution from liqui moly as well.
@@DIYAutoworksNG Xado is brand from Ukraine, so it's cheap and they produce effective stuff.
I'm from Poland, so practically next door, they've been selling their chemicals here for many years.
Can't wait for more of your tests :D I used Liqui Moly throttle body cleaner and it washed the carbon away with no problem, but it was outside the car, so much easier.
I've gotten the LM, on the hunt for Xado anticarbon... Thanks again for suggesting.
@@DIYAutoworksNG glad I could help a little :)
I am going to do this every 10k miles in addition to the catch can on my wifes new Kona. Prevention is the key
True talk!
Keep in mind that whatever it does clean, makes it’s way into your catalytic converter. Priced those lately?
Also did a video on that, with before and after shots of the catalytic converter. You can watch and let me know your thoughts... ruclips.net/video/Uy5YLEDhT_k/видео.html
if you do it from the first oil change it works better if you let it build up like yours only a manual cleaning will work
I suspect so too. I have 2 more cleaners I'm trying to lay my hands on, after that and nothing happens, manual cleaning it is!
Does this carbon / particles find its way into cylinders and score cylinder walls or bash rings ???
Good question. I didn't assess this.
Just like the videos who specialize in walnut blasting & manual cleaning of intake manifolds say. These cans only make negligible improvements. And also show only benefits on the walls, not the intake valves.
The quest continues!
Gotta try the ATS treatment and see how it does.
I have a couple other cleaners in the pipeline, and should get to ATS if I find it.
@@DIYAutoworksNG cool thanks, Scotty Kilmer has recently done a few videos on it, one of his friends started the company in New Mexico.
I'm guessing its going to take a boat load of cans before you see a good result which in my opinion is to be expected.
I'm trying to see if there are some better alternatives. More tests on the way.
Have you tried Amsoil powerfoam?
Not yet. Hadn't even heard of it. I have some cleaners on order including a Liqui Moly brand. I take a look at the Amsoil one.
Haha, it’s called marketing. Most people will not check to see if it works and will get a placebo effect thinking it did. 8-)
I'll give it one more go through the throttle body route. Some others seem to get more impressive results... Maybe there's some other factor at play compression ratio or something.
You have to spray directly into throttle body, not a vacuum line, that’s why it’s not cleaning much.
- Mechanic of 25+ years
Thanks for the suggestion. I saw one other video where it was sprayed via the throttle yet, results were similar to mine. I got some other products that I'd try. If they don't do better, I'll give this another chance as suggested. Thank you!
@@DIYAutoworksNG I recommend the seafoam top end spray. Spray at 2,000 rpm until empty, then turn off engine for 10 min and let sit, then crank and give her some firm revs and go for a drive and make sure to drive it hard so the carbon comes out.
Will this affect the throttle body or does the TB have any electrical internal bits?
@@bass4life294you recommend this seafoam for a sonata 2018 1.6t?
Waited too long.. These cleaners only work on soft carbon build ups. Hard caramelized carbon caking needs mechanical cleaning.This process only works on new engine at 15000-25000 mile intervals.
You probably have the point here.
I guess marketing won't let CRC state this limitation.
Gdi engine?
💯 GDI.
@DIYAutoworksNG Try BG intake cleaner. Also BG 44k platinum is an excellent total fuel system cleaner. Hope this helps.
Thanks. BG44k platinum ordered! Thanks for suggesting.
GDI stands for 'Gas Direct Injection' which means the valves don't get any gasoline sprayed on them as they would in the older PI (port injected) engines. The gas sprayed on the valves kept all that carbon from building up and that doesn't happen on these newer GDI engines.
Can you use this on diesel engine?@@404notfound.....
Maybe the manufacturer forgot to add information that this product was created and designed specifically for vehicles with a mileage of under 500 miles...😂
Hahaha 😂😂🤣🤣
Why dont people use water/meth injection?
Yea, right. For me I'm just still afraid of pouring water in my engine😕
Damn instead of buying CRC intake valve cleaner, buy a car with direct + port injection instead.
🤣 Just that Toyota has always lost me on interior design!
@@DIYAutoworksNG Damn. And I drive a Toyota with no port injection.
@liquidh5226 lol