For those of you that say "This test wasn't realistic because the valves weren't moving" See this link: ruclips.net/video/9FY-YoBkmA0/видео.htmlsi=BDFKc9JPPhsQFXg-&t=653 As it turns out using the CRC as directed in an actual engine gave WORSE results than soaking the valves for 48 hours. Links to the products in this video: CRC GDI Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner: amzn.to/45WO9bM Lucas GDI Cleaner: amzn.to/3LxJlRY STP Intake Valve Cleaner: amzn.to/3Lxf45Q SeaFoam: amzn.to/45Znqvh Berrymans GDI Cleaner: amzn.to/3ZuofJT Liqui Moly Valve Cleaner: amzn.to/3PPLriT Chlorinated Brake Cleaner: amzn.to/3revVne Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner: amzn.to/3Pwuubw My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
I soaked my valves in CRC gdi for 24 hours. Just made the sludge wetter. Didn't make it easier to remove. Brake cleaner is the way to go. I actually had good results with the non-chlorinated I used. Pretty much on par with chlorinated. But there's a bunch of different non-chlorinated formulas and I didn't use the one you did so who knows what the differences were.
Either way, your test isn't real world. Also, alcohol based cleaners in a running engine will burn off before they can do any good on carbon. As a professional technician, I've had better luck with soap based GDI cleaners which, interestingly, have citrus oils in them. One product that I use (GM) smells like sweet ammonia, is a white foamy consistency like scrubbing bubbles, but it REALLY works in a running engine. As far as carbon harming a catalytic converter, you're at much higher risk of a "chunk" of carbon getting wedged between a piston and cylinder head with catastrophic results (ask me how I know that one!) My most concise extrapolation is that there are turbulence factors in the running engine along with thermal shock dynamics that both lend a hand in assisting the different products. Ultimately, one can't beat water/steam to clean carbon, but the risk of hydrostatic damage is too high for the layperson. The other option is the media blast cleaning method!
Hello. I recently saw a demo with a dude. He had a test tube with their product. Blablabla heat activated. He dropped in a black cooked ball bearing as example, nothing happened. Then he took a small torch and heated the lower end of the tube for i think one minute. Shix started boiling and he took a silver ball out with a magnet. I must say this was some brutal stuff anyway after reading many reviews, but cool test.
Apples and oranges. Quit trying to compare mixed fruit. CRC on a running engine works for me as described in my post. Important not to just spray it in at 2K rpm as the product recommends. Instead choke the running temperature engine down at idle with CRC then turn off and allow heat soak for 1-hr. I figured this out using common sense. I didn't want to burn the CRC I just wanted to deposit it on the back face of the valves. This makes all the difference and only uses 1/3 of the CRC can.
You can't clean the valves unless you disassemble the engine. Period. Full stop. You're leading people to damage their engines. If you just leave things alone, those deposits will burn to ash and disappear about as fast as they build up. Excessive deposits come from lack of maintenance, cheap motor oil, cheap fuel, overloading your engine or any combination of the above. I came unto my knowledge by beginning with years of professional education and a forty year career of professional service to the public, trying all the while to steer motorists away from "shade tree" and untrained mechanics working out of a one bay gas station. Also, you are not qualified to give people advise on engine maintenance. Fir instance, running chlorinated brakkleen through an engine can KILL YOU! GET AN EDUCATION!
I've used CRC GDI valve cleaner on our 2017 Hyundai Sante Fe GDI 2.0 turbo every 5000 miles prior to the oil change. I tried 1 can of Lucas and Seafoam but like the CRC best.
CRC it WORKS. Love it. Its not as expensive as some and it soaks for an hour. Car is night and day difference on throttle response and smooth acceleration.
AND if you did a bore scope to your valves you (might) see a tiny improvement but the major deposits will still be there waiting to collect more deposits as you drive. These products would be best used as a cleaning agent sprayed into each valve chamber (with valves closed) and let soak to help soften the deposits before manual cleaning.
If you've got buildup that severe, you need to do walnut blasting or something similar. I think the whole idea behind these cleaners is using them regularly to prevent buildup in the first place.
Right, when you use it regularly it will clean in stages otherwise the valves have to be scrubbed if they sat or they where not cared for in thousands of miles. I used the Berryman product and it didn't trigger the engine light and after following their instructions I went for a drive and noticed a bunch of black smoke coming out of the tail pipe. The vehicle also upon a slight acceleration was going quite fast and as I accelerated it pulled w/out hesitation. It run effortlessly up a steep grade which tells me the valves didn't hesitate in the process the air was going through the intake very well. I keep my vehicle clean and I do change the oil and filter at 5000 miles synthetic oil that is. The air filter is checked bi-weekly and yes you have to maintain the vehicle in order to make it work. I try to clean the valves after two oil changes as well. I drive a Kia Niro and the engine isn't working at all times especially in stop and go traffic.
Even walnut blasting is done with the valves in the motor, no? The walnuts and the carbon will still need to go somewhere once done, just like the problem with these solutions.
The key to cleaning GDI intake valves is to NOT let the buildup get so bad. I did valve cleanings before every oil change on my 2014 Tiguan and at 150k miles, my valves were like new.
@@peacefrog0521 I use Gumout carbon cleaner but I have also used the CRC cleaner featured in the video. I have a small needle valve hooked to a tube that allows me to use manifold vacuum to get a fine spray into the intake. Good luck!
We so fast forget! As a retired OEM engineer told me back when port injection was relatively new there was a big problem with intake valve build up to the point where gasoline providers had to change the formulation. Chrysler engines would block completely. With DGI the build up comes from not changing the oil due to PCV. Adding a cleaner to the tank will never clean back of the valve. Ever.
I agree with your #1 pick of the CRC Cleaner. Bought my 2018 Kia Sportage with the 2.4L GDI engine with 29K miles. RUclipsr "Watch JR Go" did a video of this product to a Kia engine and sprayed it into a vacuum Hose line from the Brake Master cylinder which the directions recommended. My girlfriend assisted me revving the engine around 2-2500 rpm while I did short burst sprays into the vacuum hose line. Let it heat soak for an hour, stated the engine then got on the interstate to drive 45 minutes. Blew out a lot of white exhaust those first few miles, got some concerned looks too from other drivers. I highly recommend CRC cleaner for this type of treatment.
I used the master cylinder port on my car to introduce the crc product one time, too...the straw got sucked into the intake while I was looking up at something else not paying close attention so I immediately shut the engine off & got worried enough to remove my intake plenum to try & find the straw...well, the straw went bye-bye into the exhaust no doubt but I did find that the master cylinder vacuum port on my intake only routes to ONE set of intake valves on my dohc motor; basically it gets ALL of it's necessary vacuum from that one cylinder so I no longer use that port to introduce intake sprays cuz it just wastes it all on that one cylinder...
I do a manual cleaning and use the CRC product to soak each set of valves for 15 - 20 minutes and the combination works very well. Thanks for the video!
Really appreciate the cost and time you devoted to this topic. I can also think outside of the box. I chose CRC back in 2017 for my 2016 hyundai sonata @ 20K miles. I am a lead foot so that creates more blow-by which increases the rate of carbon build up on intake back face of valve. I did not use the can instructions which were to simply spray the CRC with the engine running. I used a vacuum port (power brake to prevent MAF damage by not using the normal intake air flow path) after engine was up to operating temp, sprayed at idle which loaded up the engine and made it start to stumble and almost die. After all I don't want to burn the CRC, I just want it to accumulate on the intake valve. Raising the engine rpm does not help to coat the valve with CRC. After it stumbled while continuing to spray CRC for about a half-minute, I had an assistant turn the engine off, then 1-hour soak. I did this in two different sessions, and the car once again would set you back in the seat at WOT. I repeated this every 20K miles and never had any cat or other issues up to 100K miles when I sold the vehicle. Those referring to hydro-lock just don't understand the combustion temperature vaporization factor. With a 4-cylinder, each cylinder only receives 1/4 of the fluid coming out of that CRC straw which will not cause hydro-lock even at idle. Big chunks of deposit could be a cat problem as you mentioned. Just clean early before the big chunks appear. I just cleaned my 2023 Sonata with CRC as mentioned above @20K miles. Again it definitely improves partial throttle torque and also high rpm performance. Those pictures showing clean metal valves after cleaning is a farce. There will always be some contaminates on the valve which cause no harm, but those lumps do in fact disturb the air flow with turbulence and that does rob torque and power. You actually don't want all the carbon to fall off at once, and have these chunks. This is why my approach of multiple cleanings on same day is a better method. After a CRC soak I start the engine and let it idle for a minute. I always get some blue smoke and a little misfire at first startup. I suspect that ignition fouling is a factor here since I clean before the big chunks get deposited. Then I drive the car at WOT to reach max combustion temp before repeating the soak. Most people address this problem after the idle is affected, which means the chunks are already in place. I now believe that one cleaning session every 10K miles would be best. By the way it only takes a third of the can for each session doing it my way at idle. I agree with @davidlecount2971. Soaking in cleaner fluid is not the same as engine head temperature and airflow across the valve (which results in heating and cooling effects for each combustion cycle).
@ForTheManDIY...I'd like to know how you know how much carbon build up you've removed you state a couple times about cleaning before "big chunks" of are built up. Do you use a bore scope? or are you guessing? The only way to remove carbon build up is manual cleaning period. Using a cleaner like CRC should be used during this manual cleaning though, it will help soften the carbon and make removal much easier. Walnut blasting is the prefered method of cleaning.
@@harryberry474 I use the preventative concept to prevent chunk accumulation, proof of removal of build up is in the wot performance. Don't have to see it to remove it. If you want to believe in manual removal, then go for it. I'll just continue to soak my carbon away.
@@harryberry474... I don't know how much carbon is there I just know when mileage and performance suffer. Using CRC every 10K miles is simply preventative. You can BELIEVE that manual cleaning is the only solution and I don't care. I don't BELIEVE that from my experience and you shouldn't care either. Mild carbon on the valve stem side doesn't have a significant impact on mileage and performance. I don't have to BELIEVE that my method works, because it actually does work as I have described in this post.
I'd like to know if the deposits changed in physical characteristics after treatment. Did the carbon become softer or gooey etc? I would think if the deposits were affected physically by the cleaners, and they were installed in a engine and thus exposed to the air velocities in the combustion chamber, deposits very well could have been blown off of the valves... no?
As a professional technician in the repair industry i can tell you that this is preventative maintenance, not a repair. Proper way is walnut blasting, but it is very labor intensive. New vehicles have come out with both port and direct injection for this reason. Also when you are cleaning it, the engine has to be running for it to have the mist effect, air flow and movement/vibration. The goal is to soften it into goop and as you drive the vehicle it will slowly be pulled in by airflow and burned off.
Port and direct injection on my 2023 Sonata still allows intake valve buildup, which is noticeable after the CRC cleaning process I use as described in an earlier post. My research reveals that low RPM port injection is more efficient, whereas direct injection is more efficient at higher RPMs and higher power levels. This is because there is less time for fuel/air tumbling at low RPMs with direct injection and this reduces fuel mixing and efficiency. However at high RPMs the direct injection provides a cooling effect just before cylinder firing and this cooling effect reduces detonation potential allowing a lot more advance timing which improves power per stroke resulting in more fuel efficiency at medium to high engine loads. So the dual systems use port injection at low RPMs and light loads whereas direct injection is used for medium to high loads and RPMs. My Sonata goes to 47-degree advance timing when on highway in cruise control mode. GDI cooling is why that is possible.
I have been washing injectors for 15 years, invented many stands, but most importantly technology. And these solutions are not capable of washing. Their combustion temperature is 400 degrees higher than that of gasoline. The temperature blows away carbon deposits, but it won’t be possible to rinse in the wrong place.
I've used brake cleaner for years for cleaning a disassembled throttle body. Brake cleaners are designed to use with a little scrubbing and will clean any carbon stain in your throttle body that some might even think the stain was printed from the factory like I did because for years it wouldn't come off. Thank you for testing these products. Some of them are really pricey and you pointed out the deserving winner the CRC.
I used the CRD product in the past and found it made a difference to the engine performance but never did I take the engine apart so I could inspect the valves. I was having issues with the engine starting to knock and go into a safe mode. Using this helped, but the results were not long lasting. In hindsight it would likely be best to take a preventative maintenance approach and do this regularly from new to avoid the buildup.
I would suggest it isn't the best case senerio. When used, real time, the valves are moving at a high rate. I would compare that to soaking your cloths in detergent or running it in a washing machine with the same detergent. But thanks for your time. I appreciate your show, especially what you gave us for undercoating our cars. Because of that series, i bought a pro spray gun, PFC for in the cavities and Woolwax for the under sides. I bought WW already poured into 4 WW bottles ;) Oh, and i bought a quickjack lift, so it would be easier (and for other car tasks) lol My wife doesnt like you!
In a washing machine you have abrasive action when clothes rub on one another. There is no abrasive action using a GDI cleaner. Vibration, sure. But, CRC is a stronger solvent than Berrymans. Motion of the valve, or any abrasive action doesn't affect the strength of the solvent. You are not the only person to bring this up. I'm going to be doing more testing with soaking vs spraying in the next few days.
Kia/hyundai have a carbon cleaning solution that I have not been able to find over the counter, but it’s very caustic and utilizes “balance tubing” that is basically a hose running between opposite cylinders to help agitate the carbon better than simply soaking or running the engine. Worth looking into, I’d love to see the legitimacy of the cleaner, or if it’s the method of ‘swishing fluid’ between two cylinders that provides results.
Your suggestion at the end is spot on. I don't think these products are intended to be used when buildup gets bad. They are intended to be used as a regular maintenance product. When buildup gets as bad as shown, it should be removed a different way. I would have liked to have seen carb cleaner included in the evaluation.
I have been running Techron thru the throttle at every oil change since new in 2020 I think I'll be good! At 50k I'm going to look with a bore scope! I'll let you know! Nice piece Thanks!👍👍👍
An important component in natural port-fuel cleaning is the fluid boils on the valve (usually when duty cycle is >30% since it sprays on a closed valve). Heat greatly amplifies the cleaning power of virtually all cleaners & solvents, it also makes the deposits gooey vs hard. The valve face is going to be at least as hot as the coolant, but generally higher since the valve seat is designed to suck heat from it, and valve heat is a decent chunk of cylinder head heat. That said I think your test still shows this stuff is close to snake oil, since the buildup is so thick and difficult to remove. There's really no way to reliably clean them w/o blasting or old fashioned port fueling.
I just used tb/carb cleaner. Though I also pulled it apart and cleaned it manually. But if these do work, and you just have to spray some in a few times a year from the 'get go' to prevent any substantial carbon build up. It's a lot easier than pulling it apart. The one thing I would argue is that... If the option is clean and maybe cause problems or don't clean and definitely cause total engine failure, people should clean their valves. But I agree, it is not the solution I would recommend (taking it somewhere to be cleaned, or trying to prevent it all together). One other thing people might want to keep in mind is the percussion of the valves was not simulated. So that may help clean them with the spray?? But as you point out, soaking it is vastly more concentrated than spraying.
I have an Associate's Degree in Diesel Technology. When our professor had us rebuild a gas engine in intro to engines class he had us soak the valves and rocker arm assemblies in a 5 gal. bucket of carb cleaner over night. They were so caked with grime and carbon, but the next morning everything looked like new! Carb cleaner is aggressive as shit, but that's what I spray in my PCV valve hose to clean my valves.
Great video! I think it comes down to this. Use these sprays (I use CRC) as preventative measures every or every other oil change - ideally right before an oil change. If your car has really bad built up, take it to a mechanic that will do walnut blasting. Then start using the sprays.
I would love to see a video testing fuel additives/detergents. Your thoroughness is exactly what’s needed. There hasn’t been a definitive test, where they mix with fuel, heat up and test in duration to see the results.
Good job! Very good communications and a well thought out, controlled study. I’m not surprised at the results at all; I’ll probably go for the full Monty and have the intake manifold and valve train removed for a full blasting clean up. Having come to that conclusion (with 137,000 mi on 5.3 V8), it might make sense to actually use the CRC product with every oil change from here on out. It’s possible that this product may serve as preventative maintenance, and have more of a positive result with less buildup to deal with.
Intake valve walnut blasting on a MINI is likely $1000 give or take. The intake valves are on the back side. A replacement Cat is $900. If the cleaner shortens the Cat life, it's still cheaper than paying someone to do the walnut blasting. You can do the walnut blasting yourself, but you can also replace the cat yourself even easier. So why go through all the work / mess of walnut shell blasting other than to get it a little cleaner? A straight pipe / no-cat could be bolted on just for cleaning purposes if you wanted for about $300, or just leave it on. On the mini, removing the cat is super easy. Removing the intake valve header... Not easy. Soaking doesn't give any vibration. You could have used an ultrasonic cleaner to simulate running the engine for 10 - 15 minutes. Thank you for taking a stab at this and sharing your results. It is helpful. It's easy to see what might be further testing after the fact, but what you came up with was an excellent start
I have used this product in a 1998 Lexus G S 400 .with 370,000 miles on the car . Car ran smother .Tried repeating every 1500 miles done 3 times and changing the oil after each application . Followed the directions to a tee very important . Car now runs very smooth lots of acceleration . Best thing I ever done along with changing oil every 5,000 miles after .One application of C R C intake cleaner is not enough to get noticeable results .
gonna start doing this on my gs300! it has 250k miles and the spark plugs has SO much carbon on them. I plan on doing two cans tomorrow , followed up by every other oil change 1 can. idk if its ever been done but aye. its a 1,000 car so in gonna try to keep it up and running as much as it can .
You did a much better test than I will ever do, so thank you. But I do feel part of your tent is lacking to the point that the results you got indicate more how the valves would respond if your car was submerged in a lake of the stuff when it was parked. It would have been better if you struck the valves a bit with a hammer a bit to simulate the valves actions of closing. Or scrapped the carbon off the valves to see how loose it was after the soaking. But I feel the largest part is was lacking is the ability for cavitation to blow off carbon. When used in a running engine the liquid can turn into a gas, and that process cn be explosive and may happen when the liquid droplets hit the hot valve. Such things would be hard to test but not impossible, and I feel would give the best results. But as it stands submerging the car in valve cleaner seems to not do all that much.
I know it seems like you are showing best case scenario, but don’t you think results might be different with the product vaporized at high temp hitting a valve moving up and down with high impact speeds? Your results don’t seem to match with others who have used such products and pulled intakes before and after. It seems like the only way to actually test would be to follow manufacturer directions with similar engines pulling intakes before and after. In other words 100x more work. Still for those of us without a walnut blasting setup, it seems clear that the crc would be best to use with brushes and a shop vac for a mechanical cleaning.
Honestly, I think your results will be worse in an actual engine. Most of these products are being sprayed past the MAF. So you're sending the cleaner through the cold side of the turbo, through the piping, through the intercooler, through more piping, and into a throttle plate that is mostly closed. I find I hard to believe that spraying the cleaner for 3-8 minutes through 3 ft of snaking intake pipe is going to have a better cleaning outcome than literally soaking the valve in the cleaner for 48 hours.
@@RepairGeekIf you spray crc before turbo, the following will occur. It will pool up at the cold side compressor and then completely soak the turbo actuator solenoid dripping and spitting the liquid crc, then through all the pipings and into the intercooler will be pooled with crc liquid. After the intercooler, some finally get to see the throttle body but the rest goes through the bypass hose then liquidises and flows back down to the air filter, now ending up soaking the air filter media. The lucky final surviving remnants of crc mist that managed to find the throttle body will hit the mostly closed throttle plate. Well at least it will have two side effects of cleaning throttle plate I guess, as well as cleaning map sensor.
Great video!! I have learned a couple things u can do to help is #1 run a catch can #2 run a good high end synthetic oil like Amsoil or Redline because it cooks off so much less than other brands. #3 if u have port and DI like an EcoBoost run a fuel system cleaner in the tank and let the truck idle in the mornings because with ford that's when its running off of port injection and spraying back of valve. If u have DI only a catch can and good oil will prolong needing a walnut blasting. I think most of them cleaners are a preventive maintenance thing once you get as bad as your valves were i think its to late. thanks for the video bro very cool!!
Have used CRC in a couple of vehicles as preventive maintenance. Personally do not know how well the product works as have not visually inspected the valves, so going on faith. Glad to see it performed decently in your test. I do space out the process rather than using the can all at one time due to the fact that the vehicle has a turbo and try to avoid potentially getting a chunk of carbon coming off at once.
I've used the STP in a 4 cylinder Ford Ecosport. No turbo. Had a slight miss before at idle. After it idled great. About half way through the cleaning I did start to get a smoke cloud and at the end I had a large smoke cloud in the driveway. About 600 miles later both O2 sensors had to be replaced for slow switching. This was about 30,000 miles ago, same cat on the car still. No issues. Oh, I did manage to get the STP for $32 using my works wholesale account at the parts store.
Nice work sir. You went the extra mile ordering that block off eBay - sometimes your stuff is very similar to Project Farm with the time and effort you put into it. Especially the undercoating stuff. Sprayed my F150 with SS/graphite powder based on your content - thank you for all your help. I hope things are going well at Blaster - please ask them to make a black product 👍
I would shy away from chlorinated brake cleaner inside an engine. When I used to work at a repair shop, the oil recycler began carrying a test kit that he would use to check every load of used oil before accepting it. Any load that was contaminated with chlorinated brake cleaner would be rejected because it would render the oil non-recyclable. I assume that this could cause severe engine wear from oil lubricity breakdown from whatever leaks past the valves & past the rings.
I bought STP with the dispenser back when it was like $32 or $35. I found that the lucas as well as Gumout foaming intake cleaner bottles fit on the STP dispenser while CRC and seafoam do not. I've been reusing it for several years now on 2 different cars. My current camry is non gdi/naturally aspirated. I've rigged up a way to run it through the brake booster vacuum hose. Maybe the gumout foaming wasn't available at the time of your test, but I found it gives great results as far as the drivability of my car. As others have stated, none of these products is meant to clean valves that are that dirty. Rather, when used from new a couple times per year, it can keep them from getting that bad. Also do at least 5,000 Mi oil change intervals and maybe install a catch can.
I had to have a catalytic converter replaced in the early 80's. The mechanic said "Catalytic converters don't die. They have to be killed." Not sure, but I think it was caused by a loose exhaust manifold that I had fixed just before this happened. Fast forward to 2021. I had used CRC on my turbo/GDI engine several times and my cat died. It is probably better to take your car to a mechanic and have the valves cleaned professionally with ground walnut shells.
One thing you and others need to see is it doesn't matter if you used 50ml or 600ml of a product its the same properties as long as its wet. Soon as the liquid touches carbon doesn't make it useless. Also this is a soak test and in a vehicle after soaking the heat and pressure will help the carbon break off so defiantly will look better if in a running engine
I had an '18 f150 with the 5.0 in the shop a year ago. It had oil leaking passed the valve seals and we found tons of carbon on 2 or 3 of the cylinders. Just like you had suggested, some of that carbon had naturally fallen off of one of the valves and when we went to replace the heads, one cylinder had bad scoring from that carbon bouncing around the combustion chamber.
i had this same issue and have a cylinder scoring but its not from the carbon buildup, mine is from the sparkplug ceramic that breaking and fallen on top of the piston.. the oil leak into the combustion make that sparkplug breaks even its a new sparkplugs, only use it less than a year before that happened on a cylinder that leak oil.
I pulled the intake and walnut blasted each intake valve on each cylinder separately, while they were closed. Then vacuumed and cleaned. Then added a nice oil catch can to help prevent future buildup.
You didn’t use these products as designed, but I agree with your disclaimer part of the video and that CRC video you showed. I don’t think these products do much of anything if your valves are already full of carbon and could cause more problems. Maybe they will help if you use them on a regular basis every 15k miles or so, I don’t know. I think they’re a waste of money. Mechanical cleaning is the best way.
Exactly, I do the same thing now, but Shell's regular gas is enough once you're certain the carbon is cleared out of your pistons, it's a cheaper solution & preventative. And I've been buying and using all sorts of cleaning fuel & oil additives too almost ever gas fill up. It took a couple years to finally get rid of it and the carbon smell since I didn't want to get a walnut blasting job nor spraying stuff inside my intakes. My car drives close to new.
@@TBPony Perhaps the additives clean just inside the cylinder. My car was having misfires during a cold start in winter so I let the fuel level get lower than ¼ and filled it up with premium (93 in my area) and no more misfires, then switched back to regular in spring. When it got cold again, more misfires. That is when I used a can of CRC intake valve cleaner and I was able to run on regular gas even during winter. I only use gas from one of the following; Costco, Shell, BP or Mobil. So for me, the valve cleaner solved the problem. Something I believe that also helps is good oil, my car recommends a synthetic blend however, I switched to full synthetic and the engine runs smoother and unlike with the synthetic blend, the oil fill cap is Dry. So for me, it did work and last winter season I used another can of valve cleaner, since CRC was not available, Seafom valve cleaner is what I used as a preventative measure.
i suppose marginally it did in the cylinder area, but physically its actually impossible to clean the intake valves where the actual buildup is on a GDI car without cleaning them through the intake or removing the manifold and cleaning the back of the valves, thats just life and fact.
Id be interested to see how choke & throttle body cleaner compares. I know the Berryman b12 choke & throttle body cleaner melts carbon right off of stuff i use it on.
The chlorinated break cleaner did clean well but I’d avoid it because it can blow up O2 sensors while the CRC cleaner specifically states that it’s o2 sensor safe. And even though the CRC performed the best a mechanical carbon cleaner will remove 100% and the CRC didn’t get very close to that. Great video though!
My tech bud at a Nissan dealer says that in premium maintenance you use one of these cleaners every oil change starting when the vehicle is new. The techs say that if you continually use this from new it dilutes the buildup over time and so it doesn't harm the system. Time will tell for those that follow that. I think pulling the valves out every 70K miles and actually cleaning everything off is a better and cheaper approach for those of us that have the tools and time to do it at home. Using lapping compound and making sure all the valves seat nicely at that point will likely prevent far more issues and improver performance better over time.
I think they all work great at cleaning your bank account. It would be interesting to see how BG's does since they seem to be the preferred snake oil of most service advisors. That being said, I wouldn't bother with anything other than a walnut shell blast. Of course, if more OEMS put out dual injector setups, then this wouldn't be so bad of a problem.
Luckily in my case, there is no catalytic converter 😅 However, the only reason i use these products (actually used the CRC stuff) is because I hand cleaned all of my valves recently. I use a vaccum and compressor to clean out the runners and valves afterwards, so nothing gets back into the chamber. Even just gasoline (at say $3/gal) is much cheaper can can work as a cleaning agent with a few brushes as well. They even make drill attachments to get a nice quick, powerful scrub down in there using power tools. Whats funny is the EPA wants manufacturers to reduce emissions, which is the reason behind a GDI engine in the first place, but are okay with products that essentially shove the carbon out the exhaust anyways. Its a shell game... just like EV and "Green energy". Energy is neither created, nor destroyed. It is simply moved around.
Years ago, like 60 of 'em, we used water to decarbon heads. Starting with a running temperature engine, we kept the rpm up. Ha you could grab the throttle at the carb. This process was paused to make sure the temp remained high. The idea is for the water to change state, flashing off at boiling point. That is key. I can tell you that saturated steam acts is an abrasive in steam lines. Having worked on steam ships. Superheated steam is much easier on lines / pipes. I bet a higher frequency of cleanings with water, would work as well as any thing else.
Unfortunately the steam creation is on the face side of the intake valve, therefore it will not remove the GDI buildup on the stem side of the valve. But I agree and know from experience that it will definitely reduce carbon on the combustion side of the intake valve (head and piston top).
@ForTheManDIY You are probably right. The intake side no longer gets the latent heat of evaporation but it still runs cold. I never imagined composite intake manifolds.
This was very interesting, but contrary to my experience. I just used seafoam, upper engine and lube, and then I went into my motor with a borescope. The cylinders were completely clean and my valves. We’re also much cleaner than any of these. the backs of the valves were really clean, but the shaft and the intake area around them was still disgustingly dirty.
I have used the CRC product reviewed here in my 50k mi 2017 3.5L twin turbo Ford Explorer. I can't say it made any immediate difference to the way the engine ran, but I wasn't really expecting that. I do want to warn anyone doing this cleaning process on a running engine to hold onto the plastic straw while you are spraying this into the intake. I was spraying thru a small port on the side of the manifold and had the straw get pulled out of the can spray port and nearly sucked into the manifold. Luckily I stopped it before it went completely inside. That would've been BIG trouble.
I am surprised you didn't give the world famous and move loved cleaner, BG44K or one of their other carbon cleaners. Very good test! CRC makes great products, but I will say I am shocked how well brake cleaner worked.
Great test and thank you... But i noticed many of these products have a more complicated application process where the car is running lower rpm with mild revs... Followed by a leisurely 15 min drive... Obviously to get stuff to the oil filter... If you do this procedure early enough and keep up w maintenance the intakes should never have large amounts of carbon to begin with. Combine that with an application process that involves continuous agitation and heat and designed air exposure might mean it's a complicated test to run. I do know that Ford uses this application process as well for new GDI maintenance at 20k intervals although a different product... But nice to know I've been using CRC and not getting ripped off too much.
The way I always injected GM Top Engine Cleaner is to pour it into a 1 gallon jug and top it up with water. Then with a warm engine, find a vacuum port and suck it in with the engine running at 2000 rpm, after which I'd go around the block and then do an oil change.
The valves in internal combustion engines can be subjected to combustion pressures in excess of 20 MPa and the temperatures about 650 °C for exhaust valves and 350 °C for intake valves 562 ° in Fahrenheit
I hear that TB cleaner also works well to break up carbon. Also, I was gonna clean a thin layer of buildup out of my intake manifold, but decided not to because of bits and pieces of potentially missed/loosened areas getting into engine.
I've used Gumout Multi system cleaner as a valve cleaner. Its not really dedicated for that use though. Ive seen other videos how it breaks down carbon pretty good on valves though.
I’ve used CRC every 10k miles for about 60k miles on our Ecoboost and have not had any problems. I think that’s the key. Use it regularly so the build up isn’t a lot.
Glad my 6.4 Hemi is still port injection..and a picked up 2 3.78L cans of Sea foam today, so every 5,000 kms in the gas tank she goes as regular maint. lol. Reminds me that I still need to do a throttle body cleaning...
Hi thanks for the test, great video, very interesting. Have you ever tried using off car DPF cleaner on the valves and soaking them. It does a great job of disolving soot and carbon. It comes in 5L tubs for about $20. It's not a compressed spray so would need to be poured into a small sprayer but maybe worth a test sometime.
I've used both the CRC and Seafood products in my '15 GMC 6.2. I prefer the way the Seafoam delivery straw works compared to the CRC. I followed the directions for the CRC and I found a bunch of the fluid in my air filter box. Seafoam with a straw that bends around and goes just ahead of the throttle body works really well where as the CRC straw goes through the MAF, I guess it didn't get sucked in as well? I also think the key is to use these products regularly, I've done it 5-6 times over 90k miles. There are also newer oils that claim they won't cause the carbon build up who knows?
I agree with your analysis 1p00%. Carbon build-up, if it gets loose from the valves (and/or piston and cylinder head), "may" eventually find its way to your catalytic converter, and plugs it up as you mentioned! That is why these companies purposely dilute their cleaners so that they cannot remove carbon deposits from piston heads or valves in order to avoid law suits. If you are really concerned to have a "cleaner" engine, you need to use premium gas from a known company like Shell, 76 or Chevron when the car was purchased brand new. At least, these gas companies know what chemicals need to be added to gas in order to reduce carbon deposits in the engine. When the time comes to clean your engine, you either disassemble the entire engine, or buy a new engine. Nothing dissolves carbon except perhaps sulfur and KNO3 mixture that you effectively create gunpowder. One caution about the brake cleaner: it may contain a chlorine-based compound which may break down inside the hot engine, and potentially form hydrochloric acid (HCl) which is one of the easiest chemicals to react with aluminum (or aluminum alloy) and iron especially in hot temps. So, I would strongly suggest to stay away from it.
It's funny I stumbled upon this video. I have a 2012 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T with 251k miles on the original engine (the theta II that is the poster child of carbon buildup). I do crc ivc every 14k miles (every other oil change) and use the hose that connects to the pcv valve as an induction point. I figure it's the best place since all the junk from the ccv system follows the same path. I do have a 3 port catch can setup with a pcv valve delete that vents both sides of the valve cover to atmosphere. I haven't taken the intake manifold off yet but I'm sure if I do the carbon deposits on the valves will be minimal. I'd like to see this test conducted again with crc ivc under heat, maybe 180F or somewhere below boiling. The heat should drastically change your test results.
Try transmission fluid and acetone but not into the engine just cleaning manually. Thanks for this vid. I need to rebuild some old chainsaws and need to clean the carbon of the exhaust ports
I’ve tried CRC on my 16 Mazda cx-9. Took off my check engine light and ran better. That was over a year ago. Still no check engine light. Gonna do it again to keep it clean
I'm guessing that using these early and often if the best use. Not waiting for it to get so built up. I have 8,000 miles on my GDI turbo VW. I'm watching this to see which one i should start using.
I recommend a catch can for GDI vehicles to help keep oil out of the intake tract. I’ve used Mopar combustion chamber cleaner with decent results. $13 a can at the dealer.
Exactly, the people that tell you how great catch cans are, are usually the ones selling catch cans... I've seen more than a few freeze solid in the winter, plug the PCV system, the crankcase pressurizes, and blows the rear main seal.
@@notacreativehandlerun an analysis on the "oil" in the catch can and you'll find its mostly condensation. So what happens is if you live in a cold climate the liquid in the can freezes, giving the pressure in the crank case nowhere to go. This happens because the filter media of the can is full of condensation that is frozen. So the filter is plugged...The pressure blows out the weakest seal. Usually the rear main requiring the transmission to be removed to replace. This doesn't even touch on the overall increase in crankcase pressure because you're running the PVC through a poorly designed filter. Increasing crankcase pressure decreases piston ring seal affecting HP. The higher pressures are also hard on turbo seals, shortening their life expectancy. Like I said above, the guy that tells you how great catch cans are, is selling catch cans...
Catch Can filled with steel-wool type material, then after a catch can pipe the line through a cellulose based oil filter to dry up any remaining vapour then pipe it back into the engine. 300K KM on my Hyundai Veloster 1st generation and 0, and I mean 0 build-up on the valves doing it this way. Catch can catches 99% and then piping it through a cellulose spin-on filter dries up the remaining. It's incredible how well this works.
I use the CRC cleaner on my GDI Hyundai engine. It works great. The carbon flakes off into the cylinder where it gets pulverized into very small particles and blows out the exhaust. I do it every 15K miles and the engine runs so much better afterwards.
I want to use these products as a preventative. I think if you ran a can of these through every 10K miles or so, you might avoid the big chunky buildup?
Great video. I'm a fan of STP and CRC. I've never paid more than $35 for STP though. I think any of these are better than paying a shop $100+ to do the same thing and call it a "fuel injection service".
Using this type product BEFORE mileage creates heavy buildup is likely the safest way to avoid "chunks" of carbon. Most owners wait until later rather than sooner for many maintenance items. Not just valve cleaning. Brake fluid, coolant, trans all benefit the life of the vehicle with early and regular servicing.
I'm surprised you didn't try regular carburetor cleaner. I've seen videos where it leaves the valves spotless. If I used any spray cleaner on my intake valves, I would immediately change the oil.
Really, at the end of the day. A mechanical carbon removal is the most effective and safe way to remove build up. If a product does remove large valve build. That's not ideal either. Most of these products would work good as a maintenance product. To slow build up or keep clean. Good reviews as always.
Does an oil catch prevent this build up? As far as cleaning my GDI intake valves I’m going to opt for the manual cleaning method. Preventing anything from going through any systems. Good video to do. Thanks.
Carbon can also score your cylinder walls leading to oil burning and loss of compression. The best way to do it is just to take the intake manifold off and do it right.
I like the test, but I would have liked to see if there were differences with agitation. When the engine is running the valves are moving up and down quite violently and quickly. I suspect that this has an impact on how the carbon gets removed. Thank you so much for sharing this test.
The BMW N52 engine is not a gdi engine, it has port injection. Should have got an N53/54 engine, or better still, an Audi cylinder head. The safest way to use these is to remove the intake manifold and turn the engine until the valves are closed on the cylinder you are going to work on, then soak the valve head(s) and stems, scrape and agitate the mixture in the port to help removal then suck or mop out as much fluid as you can, before moving onto the next one.
When i did my valves at 76k i used carb cleaner and a tooth brush. It dissolved the carbon pretty quickly into a liquid that eventually drained into the combustion chambers. Probably took about 10 minutes per cylinder. Ran the car for another 100k without issue before trading it in. However, ymmv. *2016 GTI
i believe there is is difference when HOT and motion. right? CRC had a definite effect for me. warmed up engine. hot soaked for 1-2 hrs and then driving.
For those of you that say "This test wasn't realistic because the valves weren't moving" See this link: ruclips.net/video/9FY-YoBkmA0/видео.htmlsi=BDFKc9JPPhsQFXg-&t=653 As it turns out using the CRC as directed in an actual engine gave WORSE results than soaking the valves for 48 hours.
Links to the products in this video:
CRC GDI Intake Valve and Turbo Cleaner: amzn.to/45WO9bM
Lucas GDI Cleaner: amzn.to/3LxJlRY
STP Intake Valve Cleaner: amzn.to/3Lxf45Q
SeaFoam: amzn.to/45Znqvh
Berrymans GDI Cleaner: amzn.to/3ZuofJT
Liqui Moly Valve Cleaner: amzn.to/3PPLriT
Chlorinated Brake Cleaner: amzn.to/3revVne
Non-Chlorinated Brake Cleaner: amzn.to/3Pwuubw
My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek
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I soaked my valves in CRC gdi for 24 hours. Just made the sludge wetter. Didn't make it easier to remove.
Brake cleaner is the way to go. I actually had good results with the non-chlorinated I used. Pretty much on par with chlorinated. But there's a bunch of different non-chlorinated formulas and I didn't use the one you did so who knows what the differences were.
Either way, your test isn't real world. Also, alcohol based cleaners in a running engine will burn off before they can do any good on carbon. As a professional technician, I've had better luck with soap based GDI cleaners which, interestingly, have citrus oils in them. One product that I use (GM) smells like sweet ammonia, is a white foamy consistency like scrubbing bubbles, but it REALLY works in a running engine.
As far as carbon harming a catalytic converter, you're at much higher risk of a "chunk" of carbon getting wedged between a piston and cylinder head with catastrophic results (ask me how I know that one!)
My most concise extrapolation is that there are turbulence factors in the running engine along with thermal shock dynamics that both lend a hand in assisting the different products.
Ultimately, one can't beat water/steam to clean carbon, but the risk of hydrostatic damage is too high for the layperson.
The other option is the media blast cleaning method!
Hello. I recently saw a demo with a dude. He had a test tube with their product. Blablabla heat activated. He dropped in a black cooked ball bearing as example, nothing happened. Then he took a small torch and heated the lower end of the tube for i think one minute. Shix started boiling and he took a silver ball out with a magnet.
I must say this was some brutal stuff anyway after reading many reviews, but cool test.
Apples and oranges. Quit trying to compare mixed fruit. CRC on a running engine works for me as described in my post. Important not to just spray it in at 2K rpm as the product recommends. Instead choke the running temperature engine down at idle with CRC then turn off and allow heat soak for 1-hr. I figured this out using common sense. I didn't want to burn the CRC I just wanted to deposit it on the back face of the valves. This makes all the difference and only uses 1/3 of the CRC can.
You can't clean the valves unless you disassemble the engine. Period. Full stop. You're leading people to damage their engines.
If you just leave things alone, those deposits will burn to ash and disappear about as fast as they build up. Excessive deposits come from lack of maintenance, cheap motor oil, cheap fuel, overloading your engine or any combination of the above.
I came unto my knowledge by beginning with years of professional education and a forty year career of professional service to the public, trying all the while to steer motorists away from "shade tree" and untrained mechanics working out of a one bay gas station.
Also, you are not qualified to give people advise on engine maintenance. Fir instance, running chlorinated brakkleen through an engine can KILL YOU!
GET AN EDUCATION!
I've used CRC GDI valve cleaner on our 2017 Hyundai Sante Fe GDI 2.0 turbo every 5000 miles prior to the oil change. I tried 1 can of Lucas and Seafoam but like the CRC best.
I agree CRC is the best ive used on my Ecoboost past few years
CRC it WORKS. Love it. Its not as expensive as some and it soaks for an hour. Car is night and day difference on throttle response and smooth acceleration.
AND if you did a bore scope to your valves you (might) see a tiny improvement but the major deposits will still be there waiting to collect more deposits as you drive. These products would be best used as a cleaning agent sprayed into each valve chamber (with valves closed) and let soak to help soften the deposits before manual cleaning.
If you've got buildup that severe, you need to do walnut blasting or something similar. I think the whole idea behind these cleaners is using them regularly to prevent buildup in the first place.
Right, when you use it regularly it will clean in stages otherwise the valves have to be scrubbed if they sat or they where not cared for in thousands of miles. I used the Berryman product and it didn't trigger the engine light and after following their instructions I went for a drive and noticed a bunch of black smoke coming out of the tail pipe. The vehicle also upon a slight acceleration was going quite fast and as I accelerated it pulled w/out hesitation. It run effortlessly up a steep grade which tells me the valves didn't hesitate in the process the air was going through the intake very well.
I keep my vehicle clean and I do change the oil and filter at 5000 miles synthetic oil that is. The air filter is checked bi-weekly and yes you have to maintain the vehicle in order to make it work. I try to clean the valves after two oil changes as well. I drive a Kia Niro and the engine isn't working at all times especially in stop and go traffic.
Even walnut blasting is done with the valves in the motor, no? The walnuts and the carbon will still need to go somewhere once done, just like the problem with these solutions.
@@sunshinecycling Vacuum cleaner. You suck it out with vacuum.
@@sunshinecyclingthere’s an adapter that fits over the valve opening that fit both a vacuum and a media blaster
Any suggestion what regular means ? I Lets say I am doing 6-7k miles per year (about 10k km). I would say once a year, maybe?
The key to cleaning GDI intake valves is to NOT let the buildup get so bad.
I did valve cleanings before every oil change on my 2014 Tiguan and at 150k miles, my valves were like new.
…using…?
@@peacefrog0521
I use Gumout carbon cleaner but I have also used the CRC cleaner featured in the video.
I have a small needle valve hooked to a tube that allows me to use manifold vacuum to get a fine spray into the intake. Good luck!
Came to comment this, there’s a reason they recommend to do it between every 30k to 60k miles
@@robertmarsala5438 how do you do it ? could you link a video about it?
Exactly.. every oil change sounds over done, but hey use 1/3 a can every oil change… sounds like a good idea.
We so fast forget! As a retired OEM engineer told me back when port injection was relatively new there was a big problem with intake valve build up to the point where gasoline providers had to change the formulation. Chrysler engines would block completely. With DGI the build up comes from not changing the oil due to PCV. Adding a cleaner to the tank will never clean back of the valve. Ever.
I agree with your #1 pick of the CRC Cleaner. Bought my 2018 Kia Sportage with the 2.4L GDI engine with 29K miles. RUclipsr "Watch JR Go" did a video of this product to a Kia engine and sprayed it into a vacuum Hose line from the Brake Master cylinder which the directions recommended. My girlfriend assisted me revving the engine around 2-2500 rpm while I did short burst sprays into the vacuum hose line. Let it heat soak for an hour, stated the engine then got on the interstate to drive 45 minutes. Blew out a lot of white exhaust those first few miles, got some concerned looks too from other drivers. I highly recommend CRC cleaner for this type of treatment.
I used the master cylinder port on my car to introduce the crc product one time, too...the straw got sucked into the intake while I was looking up at something else not paying close attention so I immediately shut the engine off & got worried enough to remove my intake plenum to try & find the straw...well, the straw went bye-bye into the exhaust no doubt but I did find that the master cylinder vacuum port on my intake only routes to ONE set of intake valves on my dohc motor; basically it gets ALL of it's necessary vacuum from that one cylinder so I no longer use that port to introduce intake sprays cuz it just wastes it all on that one cylinder...
I do a manual cleaning and use the CRC product to soak each set of valves for 15 - 20 minutes and the combination works very well. Thanks for the video!
Really appreciate the cost and time you devoted to this topic. I can also think outside of the box. I chose CRC back in 2017 for my 2016 hyundai sonata @ 20K miles. I am a lead foot so that creates more blow-by which increases the rate of carbon build up on intake back face of valve. I did not use the can instructions which were to simply spray the CRC with the engine running. I used a vacuum port (power brake to prevent MAF damage by not using the normal intake air flow path) after engine was up to operating temp, sprayed at idle which loaded up the engine and made it start to stumble and almost die. After all I don't want to burn the CRC, I just want it to accumulate on the intake valve. Raising the engine rpm does not help to coat the valve with CRC. After it stumbled while continuing to spray CRC for about a half-minute, I had an assistant turn the engine off, then 1-hour soak. I did this in two different sessions, and the car once again would set you back in the seat at WOT. I repeated this every 20K miles and never had any cat or other issues up to 100K miles when I sold the vehicle. Those referring to hydro-lock just don't understand the combustion temperature vaporization factor. With a 4-cylinder, each cylinder only receives 1/4 of the fluid coming out of that CRC straw which will not cause hydro-lock even at idle.
Big chunks of deposit could be a cat problem as you mentioned. Just clean early before the big chunks appear. I just cleaned my 2023 Sonata with CRC as mentioned above @20K miles. Again it definitely improves partial throttle torque and also high rpm performance. Those pictures showing clean metal valves after cleaning is a farce. There will always be some contaminates on the valve which cause no harm, but those lumps do in fact disturb the air flow with turbulence and that does rob torque and power. You actually don't want all the carbon to fall off at once, and have these chunks. This is why my approach of multiple cleanings on same day is a better method. After a CRC soak I start the engine and let it idle for a minute. I always get some blue smoke and a little misfire at first startup. I suspect that ignition fouling is a factor here since I clean before the big chunks get deposited. Then I drive the car at WOT to reach max combustion temp before repeating the soak. Most people address this problem after the idle is affected, which means the chunks are already in place. I now believe that one cleaning session every 10K miles would be best. By the way it only takes a third of the can for each session doing it my way at idle. I agree with @davidlecount2971. Soaking in cleaner fluid is not the same as engine head temperature and airflow across the valve (which results in heating and cooling effects for each combustion cycle).
@ForTheManDIY...I'd like to know how you know how much carbon build up you've removed you state a couple times about cleaning before "big chunks" of are built up. Do you use a bore scope? or are you guessing? The only way to remove carbon build up is manual cleaning period. Using a cleaner like CRC should be used during this manual cleaning though, it will help soften the carbon and make removal much easier. Walnut blasting is the prefered method of cleaning.
@@harryberry474 I use the preventative concept to prevent chunk accumulation, proof of removal of build up is in the wot performance. Don't have to see it to remove it. If you want to believe in manual removal, then go for it. I'll just continue to soak my carbon away.
@@harryberry474... I don't know how much carbon is there I just know when mileage and performance suffer. Using CRC every 10K miles is simply preventative. You can BELIEVE that manual cleaning is the only solution and I don't care. I don't BELIEVE that from my experience and you shouldn't care either. Mild carbon on the valve stem side doesn't have a significant impact on mileage and performance. I don't have to BELIEVE that my method works, because it actually does work as I have described in this post.
I'd like to know if the deposits changed in physical characteristics after treatment. Did the carbon become softer or gooey etc? I would think if the deposits were affected physically by the cleaners, and they were installed in a engine and thus exposed to the air velocities in the combustion chamber, deposits very well could have been blown off of the valves... no?
As a professional technician in the repair industry i can tell you that this is preventative maintenance, not a repair. Proper way is walnut blasting, but it is very labor intensive. New vehicles have come out with both port and direct injection for this reason. Also when you are cleaning it, the engine has to be running for it to have the mist effect, air flow and movement/vibration. The goal is to soften it into goop and as you drive the vehicle it will slowly be pulled in by airflow and burned off.
Port and direct injection on my 2023 Sonata still allows intake valve buildup, which is noticeable after the CRC cleaning process I use as described in an earlier post. My research reveals that low RPM port injection is more efficient, whereas direct injection is more efficient at higher RPMs and higher power levels. This is because there is less time for fuel/air tumbling at low RPMs with direct injection and this reduces fuel mixing and efficiency. However at high RPMs the direct injection provides a cooling effect just before cylinder firing and this cooling effect reduces detonation potential allowing a lot more advance timing which improves power per stroke resulting in more fuel efficiency at medium to high engine loads. So the dual systems use port injection at low RPMs and light loads whereas direct injection is used for medium to high loads and RPMs. My Sonata goes to 47-degree advance timing when on highway in cruise control mode. GDI cooling is why that is possible.
I have been washing injectors for 15 years, invented many stands, but most importantly technology. And these solutions are not capable of washing. Their combustion temperature is 400 degrees higher than that of gasoline. The temperature blows away carbon deposits, but it won’t be possible to rinse in the wrong place.
It's a funky test, but interesting results. I have always had the "where does it go?" concern too...
I've used brake cleaner for years for cleaning a disassembled throttle body. Brake cleaners are designed to use with a little scrubbing and will clean any carbon stain in your throttle body that some might even think the stain was printed from the factory like I did because for years it wouldn't come off. Thank you for testing these products. Some of them are really pricey and you pointed out the deserving winner the CRC.
Some throttle body parts are Teflon coated and brake cleaner could destroy the coatings
I used the CRD product in the past and found it made a difference to the engine performance but never did I take the engine apart so I could inspect the valves. I was having issues with the engine starting to knock and go into a safe mode. Using this helped, but the results were not long lasting. In hindsight it would likely be best to take a preventative maintenance approach and do this regularly from new to avoid the buildup.
I would suggest it isn't the best case senerio.
When used, real time, the valves are moving at a high rate. I would compare that to soaking your cloths in detergent or running it in a washing machine with the same detergent.
But thanks for your time. I appreciate your show, especially what you gave us for undercoating our cars.
Because of that series, i bought a pro spray gun, PFC for in the cavities and Woolwax for the under sides. I bought WW already poured into 4 WW bottles ;)
Oh, and i bought a quickjack lift, so it would be easier (and for other car tasks) lol
My wife doesnt like you!
In a washing machine you have abrasive action when clothes rub on one another. There is no abrasive action using a GDI cleaner. Vibration, sure. But, CRC is a stronger solvent than Berrymans. Motion of the valve, or any abrasive action doesn't affect the strength of the solvent.
You are not the only person to bring this up. I'm going to be doing more testing with soaking vs spraying in the next few days.
I agree - very disappointed this wasn’t done in an engine
Kia/hyundai have a carbon cleaning solution that I have not been able to find over the counter, but it’s very caustic and utilizes “balance tubing” that is basically a hose running between opposite cylinders to help agitate the carbon better than simply soaking or running the engine. Worth looking into, I’d love to see the legitimacy of the cleaner, or if it’s the method of ‘swishing fluid’ between two cylinders that provides results.
Your suggestion at the end is spot on. I don't think these products are intended to be used when buildup gets bad. They are intended to be used as a regular maintenance product. When buildup gets as bad as shown, it should be removed a different way. I would have liked to have seen carb cleaner included in the evaluation.
I have been running Techron thru the throttle at every oil change since new in 2020 I think I'll be good! At 50k I'm going to look with a bore scope! I'll let you know! Nice piece Thanks!👍👍👍
An important component in natural port-fuel cleaning is the fluid boils on the valve (usually when duty cycle is >30% since it sprays on a closed valve). Heat greatly amplifies the cleaning power of virtually all cleaners & solvents, it also makes the deposits gooey vs hard. The valve face is going to be at least as hot as the coolant, but generally higher since the valve seat is designed to suck heat from it, and valve heat is a decent chunk of cylinder head heat.
That said I think your test still shows this stuff is close to snake oil, since the buildup is so thick and difficult to remove. There's really no way to reliably clean them w/o blasting or old fashioned port fueling.
I just used tb/carb cleaner. Though I also pulled it apart and cleaned it manually.
But if these do work, and you just have to spray some in a few times a year from the 'get go' to prevent any substantial carbon build up. It's a lot easier than pulling it apart.
The one thing I would argue is that... If the option is clean and maybe cause problems or don't clean and definitely cause total engine failure, people should clean their valves. But I agree, it is not the solution I would recommend (taking it somewhere to be cleaned, or trying to prevent it all together).
One other thing people might want to keep in mind is the percussion of the valves was not simulated. So that may help clean them with the spray?? But as you point out, soaking it is vastly more concentrated than spraying.
I have an Associate's Degree in Diesel Technology. When our professor had us rebuild a gas engine in intro to engines class he had us soak the valves and rocker arm assemblies in a 5 gal. bucket of carb cleaner over night. They were so caked with grime and carbon, but the next morning everything looked like new! Carb cleaner is aggressive as shit, but that's what I spray in my PCV valve hose to clean my valves.
He has an Associates degree, well that says it all, lol
So do I... Your point?
So basically, he’s smarter than all of us who wasted a lot more money on MBAs. I’ll defend his unbiased observation.
@@henrycruz45cal 45cal? Your 45 and live in cali?
@@victorboucher675 obviously the caliber of Colt
Great video!
I think it comes down to this.
Use these sprays (I use CRC) as preventative measures every or every other oil change - ideally right before an oil change. If your car has really bad built up, take it to a mechanic that will do walnut blasting. Then start using the sprays.
I would love to see a video testing fuel additives/detergents. Your thoroughness is exactly what’s needed. There hasn’t been a definitive test, where they mix with fuel, heat up and test in duration to see the results.
Good job! Very good communications and a well thought out, controlled study. I’m not surprised at the results at all; I’ll probably go for the full Monty and have the intake manifold and valve train removed for a full blasting clean up. Having come to that conclusion (with 137,000 mi on 5.3 V8), it might make sense to actually use the CRC product with every oil change from here on out. It’s possible that this product may serve as preventative maintenance, and have more of a positive result with less buildup to deal with.
Best is to not let the carbon build up so much. Great video!
Intake valve walnut blasting on a MINI is likely $1000 give or take. The intake valves are on the back side. A replacement Cat is $900. If the cleaner shortens the Cat life, it's still cheaper than paying someone to do the walnut blasting. You can do the walnut blasting yourself, but you can also replace the cat yourself even easier. So why go through all the work / mess of walnut shell blasting other than to get it a little cleaner?
A straight pipe / no-cat could be bolted on just for cleaning purposes if you wanted for about $300, or just leave it on. On the mini, removing the cat is super easy. Removing the intake valve header... Not easy.
Soaking doesn't give any vibration. You could have used an ultrasonic cleaner to simulate running the engine for 10 - 15 minutes.
Thank you for taking a stab at this and sharing your results. It is helpful. It's easy to see what might be further testing after the fact, but what you came up with was an excellent start
I have used this product in a 1998 Lexus G S 400 .with 370,000 miles on the car . Car ran smother .Tried repeating every 1500 miles done 3 times and changing the oil after each application . Followed the directions to a tee very important . Car now runs very smooth lots of acceleration . Best thing I ever done along with changing oil every 5,000 miles after .One application of C R C intake cleaner is not enough to get noticeable results .
gonna start doing this on my gs300! it has 250k miles and the spark plugs has SO much carbon on them. I plan on doing two cans tomorrow , followed up by every other oil change 1 can. idk if its ever been done but aye. its a 1,000 car so in gonna try to keep it up and running as much as it can .
Hi @@PuffyStodid you do it?
@@arielrwc not yet. i bought the product. just dont have money for a oil change so im waiting it out
You did a much better test than I will ever do, so thank you. But I do feel part of your tent is lacking to the point that the results you got indicate more how the valves would respond if your car was submerged in a lake of the stuff when it was parked. It would have been better if you struck the valves a bit with a hammer a bit to simulate the valves actions of closing. Or scrapped the carbon off the valves to see how loose it was after the soaking. But I feel the largest part is was lacking is the ability for cavitation to blow off carbon. When used in a running engine the liquid can turn into a gas, and that process cn be explosive and may happen when the liquid droplets hit the hot valve. Such things would be hard to test but not impossible, and I feel would give the best results. But as it stands submerging the car in valve cleaner seems to not do all that much.
ruclips.net/video/9FY-YoBkmA0/видео.htmlsi=BDFKc9JPPhsQFXg-&t=653
I know it seems like you are showing best case scenario, but don’t you think results might be different with the product vaporized at high temp hitting a valve moving up and down with high impact speeds? Your results don’t seem to match with others who have used such products and pulled intakes before and after. It seems like the only way to actually test would be to follow manufacturer directions with similar engines pulling intakes before and after. In other words 100x more work.
Still for those of us without a walnut blasting setup, it seems clear that the crc would be best to use with brushes and a shop vac for a mechanical cleaning.
Honestly, I think your results will be worse in an actual engine.
Most of these products are being sprayed past the MAF. So you're sending the cleaner through the cold side of the turbo, through the piping, through the intercooler, through more piping, and into a throttle plate that is mostly closed.
I find I hard to believe that spraying the cleaner for 3-8 minutes through 3 ft of snaking intake pipe is going to have a better cleaning outcome than literally soaking the valve in the cleaner for 48 hours.
@@RepairGeekIf you spray crc before turbo, the following will occur.
It will pool up at the cold side compressor and then completely soak the turbo actuator solenoid dripping and spitting the liquid crc, then through all the pipings and into the intercooler will be pooled with crc liquid. After the intercooler, some finally get to see the throttle
body but the rest goes through the bypass hose then liquidises and flows back down to the air filter, now ending up soaking the air filter media. The lucky final surviving remnants of crc mist that managed to find the throttle body will hit the mostly closed throttle plate.
Well at least it will have two side effects of cleaning throttle plate I guess, as well as cleaning map sensor.
Great video!! I have learned a couple things u can do to help is #1 run a catch can #2 run a good high end synthetic oil like Amsoil or Redline because it cooks off so much less than other brands. #3 if u have port and DI like an EcoBoost run a fuel system cleaner in the tank and let the truck idle in the mornings because with ford that's when its running off of port injection and spraying back of valve. If u have DI only a catch can and good oil will prolong needing a walnut blasting. I think most of them cleaners are a preventive maintenance thing once you get as bad as your valves were i think its to late. thanks for the video bro very cool!!
Agree with you.
Have used CRC in a couple of vehicles as preventive maintenance. Personally do not know how well the product works as have not visually inspected the valves, so going on faith. Glad to see it performed decently in your test. I do space out the process rather than using the can all at one time due to the fact that the vehicle has a turbo and try to avoid potentially getting a chunk of carbon coming off at once.
I've used the STP in a 4 cylinder Ford Ecosport. No turbo. Had a slight miss before at idle. After it idled great. About half way through the cleaning I did start to get a smoke cloud and at the end I had a large smoke cloud in the driveway. About 600 miles later both O2 sensors had to be replaced for slow switching.
This was about 30,000 miles ago, same cat on the car still. No issues.
Oh, I did manage to get the STP for $32 using my works wholesale account at the parts store.
Nice work sir. You went the extra mile ordering that block off eBay - sometimes your stuff is very similar to Project Farm with the time and effort you put into it. Especially the undercoating stuff. Sprayed my F150 with SS/graphite powder based on your content - thank you for all your help. I hope things are going well at Blaster - please ask them to make a black product 👍
I would shy away from chlorinated brake cleaner inside an engine. When I used to work at a repair shop, the oil recycler began carrying a test kit that he would use to check every load of used oil before accepting it. Any load that was contaminated with chlorinated brake cleaner would be rejected because it would render the oil non-recyclable. I assume that this could cause severe engine wear from oil lubricity breakdown from whatever leaks past the valves & past the rings.
Same opinion
Interesting point. Maybe do this just before an oil change, at least for engine wear concern?
I bought STP with the dispenser back when it was like $32 or $35. I found that the lucas as well as Gumout foaming intake cleaner bottles fit on the STP dispenser while CRC and seafoam do not. I've been reusing it for several years now on 2 different cars. My current camry is non gdi/naturally aspirated. I've rigged up a way to run it through the brake booster vacuum hose. Maybe the gumout foaming wasn't available at the time of your test, but I found it gives great results as far as the drivability of my car. As others have stated, none of these products is meant to clean valves that are that dirty. Rather, when used from new a couple times per year, it can keep them from getting that bad. Also do at least 5,000 Mi oil change intervals and maybe install a catch can.
I had to have a catalytic converter replaced in the early 80's. The mechanic said "Catalytic converters don't die. They have to be killed." Not sure, but I think it was caused by a loose exhaust manifold that I had fixed just before this happened.
Fast forward to 2021. I had used CRC on my turbo/GDI engine several times and my cat died. It is probably better to take your car to a mechanic and have the valves cleaned professionally with ground walnut shells.
One thing you and others need to see is it doesn't matter if you used 50ml or 600ml of a product its the same properties as long as its wet. Soon as the liquid touches carbon doesn't make it useless. Also this is a soak test and in a vehicle after soaking the heat and pressure will help the carbon break off so defiantly will look better if in a running engine
Interesting 🤔 video. We currently bought a 2020 Santa Fe. We drive it a lot. Looks like I will be spending time once a week to clean with CRC.
I had an '18 f150 with the 5.0 in the shop a year ago. It had oil leaking passed the valve seals and we found tons of carbon on 2 or 3 of the cylinders. Just like you had suggested, some of that carbon had naturally fallen off of one of the valves and when we went to replace the heads, one cylinder had bad scoring from that carbon bouncing around the combustion chamber.
Yeah no way in hell piece of carbon caused that 😂
@@lastknownjedi5119large pieces of carbon can absolutely cause damage to cylinder walls
i had this same issue and have a cylinder scoring but its not from the carbon buildup, mine is from the sparkplug ceramic that breaking and fallen on top of the piston.. the oil leak into the combustion make that sparkplug breaks even its a new sparkplugs, only use it less than a year before that happened on a cylinder that leak oil.
@@lastknownjedi5119 pure carbon can be the hardest substance known to man, and a woman's best friend.
@dony210 the engine doesn't have enough pressure to make diamonds 😂
I pulled the intake and walnut blasted each intake valve on each cylinder separately, while they were closed. Then vacuumed and cleaned. Then added a nice oil catch can to help prevent future buildup.
@8:30, maybe the Liqui Moly is meant to be used with gas, and that's how it gains it's cleaning power?
You didn’t use these products as designed, but I agree with your disclaimer part of the video and that CRC video you showed. I don’t think these products do much of anything if your valves are already full of carbon and could cause more problems. Maybe they will help if you use them on a regular basis every 15k miles or so, I don’t know. I think they’re a waste of money. Mechanical cleaning is the best way.
CRC says to do the cleaning every 10k miles. Perhaps if you actually did that, your valves would never get that bad when you hit say 100k miles.
@@Matys1975 I read a comment yesterday... "My car has 400,000 miles, I used CRC and it did nothing"!
I imagine this person has no sense...🤦♂
I was having misfires on my car's GDI engine where only premium fuel helped. I tried one can of the CRC and it solved the engine misfires.
Exactly, I do the same thing now, but Shell's regular gas is enough once you're certain the carbon is cleared out of your pistons, it's a cheaper solution & preventative. And I've been buying and using all sorts of cleaning fuel & oil additives too almost ever gas fill up. It took a couple years to finally get rid of it and the carbon smell since I didn't want to get a walnut blasting job nor spraying stuff inside my intakes. My car drives close to new.
Things you put in your gas tank have absolutely nothing to do with cleaning your intake valves on a GDI car
@@TBPony it worked for me, been using premium gas w/ fuel additive cleaners for a while, did the job.
@@TBPony Perhaps the additives clean just inside the cylinder. My car was having misfires during a cold start in winter so I let the fuel level get lower than ¼ and filled it up with premium (93 in my area) and no more misfires, then switched back to regular in spring. When it got cold again, more misfires. That is when I used a can of CRC intake valve cleaner and I was able to run on regular gas even during winter. I only use gas from one of the following; Costco, Shell, BP or Mobil. So for me, the valve cleaner solved the problem. Something I believe that also helps is good oil, my car recommends a synthetic blend however, I switched to full synthetic and the engine runs smoother and unlike with the synthetic blend, the oil fill cap is Dry. So for me, it did work and last winter season I used another can of valve cleaner, since CRC was not available, Seafom valve cleaner is what I used as a preventative measure.
i suppose marginally it did in the cylinder area, but physically its actually impossible to clean the intake valves where the actual buildup is on a GDI car without cleaning them through the intake or removing the manifold and cleaning the back of the valves, thats just life and fact.
Appreciated the logic about whether or not to do this, backed by even CRC product video and sediment remains.
Id be interested to see how choke & throttle body cleaner compares. I know the Berryman b12 choke & throttle body cleaner melts carbon right off of stuff i use it on.
The gumout choke cleaner is also just as good. Lucas too. But many of them are very strong regardless.
The chlorinated break cleaner did clean well but I’d avoid it because it can blow up O2 sensors while the CRC cleaner specifically states that it’s o2 sensor safe. And even though the CRC performed the best a mechanical carbon cleaner will remove 100% and the CRC didn’t get very close to that. Great video though!
My tech bud at a Nissan dealer says that in premium maintenance you use one of these cleaners every oil change starting when the vehicle is new. The techs say that if you continually use this from new it dilutes the buildup over time and so it doesn't harm the system. Time will tell for those that follow that. I think pulling the valves out every 70K miles and actually cleaning everything off is a better and cheaper approach for those of us that have the tools and time to do it at home. Using lapping compound and making sure all the valves seat nicely at that point will likely prevent far more issues and improver performance better over time.
I think they all work great at cleaning your bank account. It would be interesting to see how BG's does since they seem to be the preferred snake oil of most service advisors. That being said, I wouldn't bother with anything other than a walnut shell blast. Of course, if more OEMS put out dual injector setups, then this wouldn't be so bad of a problem.
You should try Amsoil’s and Gumout’s foaming cleaners. I bet they’re better than the STP at least
The STP worked great for me in a 2016 jeep renegade 1.4L turbo…Instant results
Luckily in my case, there is no catalytic converter 😅
However, the only reason i use these products (actually used the CRC stuff) is because I hand cleaned all of my valves recently. I use a vaccum and compressor to clean out the runners and valves afterwards, so nothing gets back into the chamber. Even just gasoline (at say $3/gal) is much cheaper can can work as a cleaning agent with a few brushes as well. They even make drill attachments to get a nice quick, powerful scrub down in there using power tools.
Whats funny is the EPA wants manufacturers to reduce emissions, which is the reason behind a GDI engine in the first place, but are okay with products that essentially shove the carbon out the exhaust anyways. Its a shell game... just like EV and "Green energy". Energy is neither created, nor destroyed. It is simply moved around.
Years ago, like 60 of 'em, we used water to decarbon heads.
Starting with a running temperature engine, we kept the rpm up. Ha you could grab the throttle at the carb.
This process was paused to make sure the temp remained high.
The idea is for the water to change state, flashing off at boiling point.
That is key.
I can tell you that saturated steam acts is an abrasive in steam lines.
Having worked on steam ships.
Superheated steam is much easier on lines / pipes.
I bet a higher frequency of cleanings with water, would work as well as any thing else.
Unfortunately the steam creation is on the face side of the intake valve, therefore it will not remove the GDI buildup on the stem side of the valve. But I agree and know from experience that it will definitely reduce carbon on the combustion side of the intake valve (head and piston top).
@ForTheManDIY You are probably right.
The intake side no longer gets the latent heat of evaporation but it still runs cold.
I never imagined composite intake manifolds.
1:42 the n52 is port injected, you’re either referring to the n54 or n55
This was very interesting, but contrary to my experience. I just used seafoam, upper engine and lube, and then I went into my motor with a borescope. The cylinders were completely clean and my valves. We’re also much cleaner than any of these. the backs of the valves were really clean, but the shaft and the intake area around them was still disgustingly dirty.
I have used the CRC product reviewed here in my 50k mi 2017 3.5L twin turbo Ford Explorer. I can't say it made any immediate difference to the way the engine ran, but I wasn't really expecting that. I do want to warn anyone doing this cleaning process on a running engine to hold onto the plastic straw while you are spraying this into the intake.
I was spraying thru a small port on the side of the manifold and had the straw get pulled out of the can spray port and nearly sucked into the manifold. Luckily I stopped it before it went completely inside. That would've been BIG trouble.
be careful about any carbon chunks making its way to the trubo.. it could damage the turbo
I am surprised you didn't give the world famous and move loved cleaner, BG44K or one of their other carbon cleaners. Very good test! CRC makes great products, but I will say I am shocked how well brake cleaner worked.
Great test and thank you... But i noticed many of these products have a more complicated application process where the car is running lower rpm with mild revs... Followed by a leisurely 15 min drive... Obviously to get stuff to the oil filter... If you do this procedure early enough and keep up w maintenance the intakes should never have large amounts of carbon to begin with. Combine that with an application process that involves continuous agitation and heat and designed air exposure might mean it's a complicated test to run. I do know that Ford uses this application process as well for new GDI maintenance at 20k intervals although a different product... But nice to know I've been using CRC and not getting ripped off too much.
The way I always injected GM Top Engine Cleaner is to pour it into a 1 gallon jug and top it up with water.
Then with a warm engine, find a vacuum port and suck it in with the engine running at 2000 rpm, after which I'd go around the block and then do an oil change.
The valves in internal combustion engines can be subjected to combustion pressures in excess of 20 MPa and the temperatures about 650 °C for exhaust valves and 350 °C for intake valves 562 ° in Fahrenheit
I hear that TB cleaner also works well to break up carbon. Also, I was gonna clean a thin layer of buildup out of my intake manifold, but decided not to because of bits and pieces of potentially missed/loosened areas getting into engine.
I've used Gumout Multi system cleaner as a valve cleaner. Its not really dedicated for that use though. Ive seen other videos how it breaks down carbon pretty good on valves though.
I hadn’t thought about the turbocharger. I was concerned about the catalytic converter. I guess I’ll start saving for the walnut blast.
Do you think they mean a big chunk rather than a diluted/melted part?
Great video! Not an N52 though… maybe N54 or N55. The N52 is port injection.
Up the CRC product. Use this product every oil change on my Mazdaspeed 3
Thank,s for Advice on effecting catalic converter and Results .
I’ve used CRC every 10k miles for about 60k miles on our Ecoboost and have not had any problems. I think that’s the key. Use it regularly so the build up isn’t a lot.
Where do yiu spray it ?
Glad my 6.4 Hemi is still port injection..and a picked up 2 3.78L cans of Sea foam today, so every 5,000 kms in the gas tank she goes as regular maint. lol. Reminds me that I still need to do a throttle body cleaning...
I’ve used crc on my 2.7 f150 eco did an oil change after, idk but truck runs excellent now. No issues what so ever
Hi thanks for the test, great video, very interesting. Have you ever tried using off car DPF cleaner on the valves and soaking them. It does a great job of disolving soot and carbon. It comes in 5L tubs for about $20. It's not a compressed spray so would need to be poured into a small sprayer but maybe worth a test sometime.
I've used both the CRC and Seafood products in my '15 GMC 6.2. I prefer the way the Seafoam delivery straw works compared to the CRC. I followed the directions for the CRC and I found a bunch of the fluid in my air filter box. Seafoam with a straw that bends around and goes just ahead of the throttle body works really well where as the CRC straw goes through the MAF, I guess it didn't get sucked in as well? I also think the key is to use these products regularly, I've done it 5-6 times over 90k miles. There are also newer oils that claim they won't cause the carbon build up who knows?
Mmmmm seafood 🐠🐟
I agree with your analysis 1p00%. Carbon build-up, if it gets loose from the valves (and/or piston and cylinder head), "may" eventually find its way to your catalytic converter, and plugs it up as you mentioned! That is why these companies purposely dilute their cleaners so that they cannot remove carbon deposits from piston heads or valves in order to avoid law suits. If you are really concerned to have a "cleaner" engine, you need to use premium gas from a known company like Shell, 76 or Chevron when the car was purchased brand new. At least, these gas companies know what chemicals need to be added to gas in order to reduce carbon deposits in the engine. When the time comes to clean your engine, you either disassemble the entire engine, or buy a new engine. Nothing dissolves carbon except perhaps sulfur and KNO3 mixture that you effectively create gunpowder. One caution about the brake cleaner: it may contain a chlorine-based compound which may break down inside the hot engine, and potentially form hydrochloric acid (HCl) which is one of the easiest chemicals to react with aluminum (or aluminum alloy) and iron especially in hot temps. So, I would strongly suggest to stay away from it.
It's funny I stumbled upon this video. I have a 2012 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T with 251k miles on the original engine (the theta II that is the poster child of carbon buildup). I do crc ivc every 14k miles (every other oil change) and use the hose that connects to the pcv valve as an induction point. I figure it's the best place since all the junk from the ccv system follows the same path. I do have a 3 port catch can setup with a pcv valve delete that vents both sides of the valve cover to atmosphere. I haven't taken the intake manifold off yet but I'm sure if I do the carbon deposits on the valves will be minimal.
I'd like to see this test conducted again with crc ivc under heat, maybe 180F or somewhere below boiling. The heat should drastically change your test results.
Try transmission fluid and acetone but not into the engine just cleaning manually. Thanks for this vid. I need to rebuild some old chainsaws and need to clean the carbon of the exhaust ports
I’ve tried CRC on my 16 Mazda cx-9. Took off my check engine light and ran better. That was over a year ago. Still no check engine light. Gonna do it again to keep it clean
I'm guessing that using these early and often if the best use. Not waiting for it to get so built up.
I have 8,000 miles on my GDI turbo VW.
I'm watching this to see which one i should start using.
Wouldn't a good oil catch can or air/oil separator be a better option?
I recommend a catch can for GDI vehicles to help keep oil out of the intake tract. I’ve used Mopar combustion chamber cleaner with decent results. $13 a can at the dealer.
I’ve heard that these can add pressure inside the crank case and blow seals over time. Have you used one for a long time?
Exactly, the people that tell you how great catch cans are, are usually the ones selling catch cans... I've seen more than a few freeze solid in the winter, plug the PCV system, the crankcase pressurizes, and blows the rear main seal.
@@RepairGeek
How in the world does a catch can plug the PVC when there is no restriction?
This would only happen if you don’t empty the can.
@@stevehirjak7824
How would a catch can increase crank case pressure?
@@notacreativehandlerun an analysis on the "oil" in the catch can and you'll find its mostly condensation.
So what happens is if you live in a cold climate the liquid in the can freezes, giving the pressure in the crank case nowhere to go. This happens because the filter media of the can is full of condensation that is frozen. So the filter is plugged...The pressure blows out the weakest seal. Usually the rear main requiring the transmission to be removed to replace.
This doesn't even touch on the overall increase in crankcase pressure because you're running the PVC through a poorly designed filter. Increasing crankcase pressure decreases piston ring seal affecting HP. The higher pressures are also hard on turbo seals, shortening their life expectancy.
Like I said above, the guy that tells you how great catch cans are, is selling catch cans...
Catch Can filled with steel-wool type material, then after a catch can pipe the line through a cellulose based oil filter to dry up any remaining vapour then pipe it back into the engine. 300K KM on my Hyundai Veloster 1st generation and 0, and I mean 0 build-up on the valves doing it this way. Catch can catches 99% and then piping it through a cellulose spin-on filter dries up the remaining. It's incredible how well this works.
Thanks for doing this. Very well done.
I use the CRC cleaner on my GDI Hyundai engine. It works great. The carbon flakes off into the cylinder where it gets pulverized into very small particles and blows out the exhaust. I do it every 15K miles and the engine runs so much better afterwards.
I want to use these products as a preventative. I think if you ran a can of these through every 10K miles or so, you might avoid the big chunky buildup?
Great video. I'm a fan of STP and CRC. I've never paid more than $35 for STP though. I think any of these are better than paying a shop $100+ to do the same thing and call it a "fuel injection service".
I would say that in order to liqui moly to work, the engine must be up to operation temp
if you have turbos should you be using break cleaner?
Using this type product BEFORE mileage creates heavy buildup is likely the safest way to avoid "chunks" of carbon. Most owners wait until later rather than sooner for many maintenance items. Not just valve cleaning. Brake fluid, coolant, trans all benefit the life of the vehicle with early and regular servicing.
I'm surprised you didn't try regular carburetor cleaner. I've seen videos where it leaves the valves spotless. If I used any spray cleaner on my intake valves, I would immediately change the oil.
Would be nice to have some kind of fluid movement over the valve. Having the value sit in liquid only shows part of the products cleaning ability.
Mechanical action creates another variable.
Really, at the end of the day. A mechanical carbon removal is the most effective and safe way to remove build up. If a product does remove large valve build. That's not ideal either. Most of these products would work good as a maintenance product. To slow build up or keep clean. Good reviews as always.
Does an oil catch prevent this build up? As far as cleaning my GDI intake valves I’m going to opt for the manual cleaning method. Preventing anything from going through any systems. Good video to do. Thanks.
It will slow it down. It won't prevent it completely.
Carbon can also score your cylinder walls leading to oil burning and loss of compression. The best way to do it is just to take the intake manifold off and do it right.
Can one use multiple CRC cans during a cleaning. Say 3?
I like the test, but I would have liked to see if there were differences with agitation. When the engine is running the valves are moving up and down quite violently and quickly. I suspect that this has an impact on how the carbon gets removed.
Thank you so much for sharing this test.
I used CRC in a running motor here: ruclips.net/video/9FY-YoBkmA0/видео.htmlsi=BDFKc9JPPhsQFXg-&t=653
The results were worse than soaking in a beaker.
How does it work when you put it in the gas when the design is GDI ? Those chemicals don't clean the valves if it does not touch it.
Question is, if you have an old dirty GDI engine, what will happen with the oil consumption after all the internal cleaning is done?
Can I spray / soak my air filter instead?
So what about spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body while the engine is running like seafoam?
The BMW N52 engine is not a gdi engine, it has port injection. Should have got an N53/54 engine, or better still, an Audi cylinder head. The safest way to use these is to remove the intake manifold and turn the engine until the valves are closed on the cylinder you are going to work on, then soak the valve head(s) and stems, scrape and agitate the mixture in the port to help removal then suck or mop out as much fluid as you can, before moving onto the next one.
I use the BG Platinum Air Intake, Valve & Combustion Chamber Cleaner with the Mityvac tool and it worked the best on my Audi A4 2.0t
When i did my valves at 76k i used carb cleaner and a tooth brush. It dissolved the carbon pretty quickly into a liquid that eventually drained into the combustion chambers. Probably took about 10 minutes per cylinder. Ran the car for another 100k without issue before trading it in. However, ymmv.
*2016 GTI
i believe there is is difference when HOT and motion. right? CRC had a definite effect for me. warmed up engine. hot soaked for 1-2 hrs and then driving.