You gotta print it in PEBA. It has the highest energy return of any 3D printer filament. I did a video about it. Expensive, but it'll work way better than any other material.
Very interested in seeing this tested. In his video he tested a 100% infill sphere. In comparison to the tpu that was also 100% infill (different characteristics at higher densities) i feel like it may be the solution to the “flat-ball” bounce that tpu had
@@UncleJessySubmerge the ball in 3d gloop, then stick it in an enclosure and spin the ball real fast like a centrifuge to remove the excess? Might not work, but might also be crazy enough to do so.
I don't have context on the models, but if you're taking a model and scaling it different sizes in the slicer, the hexagonal lattice structure isn't staying constant to compensate and would explain a lot of why the smaller ones bounce better.
@@UncleJessy it's just the material strenght. the bigger ball is simply able to push the fillaments past their maximum stress and they break. the whole point of scale is that as far as shape goes. (so the structure the op was talking about) stays EXACTLY proportional. what you are not scaling along with it though. is the molucules and their bonds inside of the material itself. since you are not a mad scientist with a shrink ray. wich means when scaling down you are essentially changing the material propperties. and not the structure. (if you were to scale your perspective down along with the ball then everything remains the same but the material gets stronger)
This was so much fun! I really appreciate how many different materials you made use of - that was a LOT of printing there. Thanks for putting so much work into it!
For the flex pla: turn the temperature up to around 210-220 (or near whatever the max temp is for your brand), slow down your print by about 20% (so 80% speed of what you print pla at). In my experience it dosen't like to print big overhangs with these settings but comes out way cleaner.
it's almost as if more flexible fillaments need to be printed at slower speeds. . . if only this was readely available information that has basicly been common knowledge for the past several years. .... oh wait.
Jess I'm going to try Overture CoPA, they call it Easy Nylon, as it will be my first nylon material ever. The thing with the gloop is an astounding result tho. What doesn't convince me about PLA of any kind is heat resistance. I think on an outdoor basket field in summer, on tarmac, absorbing energy and dragforce, it might get really close to a temperature where the PLA is at risk. Not much of melting but to alter its properties.@@UncleJessy
If you look at the original, expensive ball, it has 2 layers, so it has room to spring. The lines on the basketballs tell me that the temperature might've been too cold for them to become one piece and the filament should be tougher but have just enough flexibility for it to work. But I think the 2 layers have a lot to do with it, because that way the ball absorbs the impact and has some extra springiness.
Is it possible to put the 3d gloop in a spray gun and very lightly spray it on so you don't have all the excess? maybe there is even a slight thining agent it can be cut with to make it easier to apply in thin layers?
ABS and ASA have better impact resistance, as that is what you need is some high impact PLA or something. The ball needs to be somewhat rigid. Think on how a basketball works in that manner, it pretty hard when you feel it but it can deform slightly to bounce back up.
I have a feeling the gloop along with fusing the layer lines also annealed the print to reduce internal stress. In that I'd like to see if annealing the print helps makes it not just shatter right away.
There's probably a reason, why they sell *working* 3d printed basketball at $2500 🙃 It cannot be reproduced with common printers and common materials. Simplistic designs do not work as basket ball, though if they get plenty of downloads on MakerWorld, they give uploaders _free_ stuff (but the ball will still suck in feel, bounce, strength). Layered lattice structure might be a key to _somewhat_ success, but layer adhesion will destroy balls printed with filament. Maybe some mixture of flexible and strong resins might work better?
Well I was thinking something like this too. Perhaps the inner shell of the ball could be printed in some short of hard material while the outer in any soft. That way it might actually bounce.
I was looking for this content exactly! I printed it for test in PETG, it bounced quite good those 10 bounces before cracking. I started from 20cm high and started bouncing higher and higher until at like 60 cm and a dozen bounces it cracked as I expected. Now I'm going for a functional one!
Firmness and rubberiness are going to be important, but your *layer adhesion* is going to be most important. That's why the gloop helped so much. The ones that cracked all cracked on layer lines i'm sure. And the single level ones are definitely going to crack before the dual layer lattice ones. That dual layer is doing a LOT to support spreading out the impact over a larger area. So Max out layer adhesion in whatever way you can, try and make the layer structure more interwoven (prob impossible), and then just find the right level of bounce. BUt yeah, thinning out the gloop and using a spray to put it on is going to help a lot as well.
Woah one of my models spotted on a Uncle jessy video! (the Retro Ball one, Filete3D) For my part, I can say that I have obtained good results making even smaller copies (which began as a way to test materials quickly) and it triggered the idea that for the materials available in FDM the most appropriate thing to print and achieve is a tennis ball (from there the airless tennis ball 1.1). I am currently developing variants that accommodate the available materials such as TPU 95a, PLA Flex, adjusting the width of the walls and size of the hexagons and we are achieving great results! Either way, as usual, this is a great summary video of a maker experience. Thank you Jessy🙌
I fucking love Jesse. He has been my go-to for printing since starting this hobby. Then sometimes it's just a dude smashing stuff on his floor. Love it. Keep rocking brother.
I’d be curious to see how an ABS filament would fare with this. It’s a little more flexible and rigid than PLA so should in theory deform and spring back a bit more without breaking. Not sure if it really would hold up to much abuse though. For this sort of thing you need a material that’s stiff enough to overcome the lack of internal air pressure but not so stiff that it cracks and breaks. It’s a fine line to ride and idk if there’s a filament out there at the consumer level that really fits the bill. It’s kind of pricey, but maybe MatterHackers Pro Flex filament would be the right flexible-rigid ratio.
I was totally working on a video very similar to this, then I saw you on instagram and I was like dang it! 😆 I’m so intrigued with the different filaments and “durability”
Roller brush on Silastic silicone over PC. Elastomeric plus rigid component should equal energy return, ie, bounce. The elastomer protects the printed component while latter returns to its original shape more aggressively.
Use two different filiments, 95A TPU in the outer walls with TPU+ in the inner walls, that way it has a bouncy rigidity and a grippy outer surface, plus a little more heft.
I printed the airless basketball in ASA on my Voron in an 80C chamber and it's bouncing. It's not the filament, it's the fact that desktop printers are trash. ASA with actual layer adhesion is ideal for the airless basketball. There is a reason industrial printers have chambers up to 250C.
Maybe you could print it with ABS, then acetone smooth it to help bind the layers like you did with the 3D Gloop. Not sure how well it would work, but it's worth a shot (pun intended) ;)
Loved this video. Such a fun video to watch. Joel's showed up 1st on my feed. So came here from there. The reason the TPU doesn't bounce as much is the same reason a matress in a gym doesn't let you bounce much when you fall on it. The material properties absorbs the impact, dispersing the energy upwards as the impact prgresses. It folds in on itself. So most of the energy is gone. Stiffness stores the energy for the bounce back. reason the PLA could bounce, sortoff. But the downside is stress fractures caused by storing all that energy in an unforgiving material. Just basic impact science. I will be posting this on Joel's side aswell.
heck yeah! Glad you made it over and saw his. Thanks for the extra details. Love the feel of the TPU/FlexPLA prints but obviously would prefer they bounced ;)
Jessy, could you please try ABS? As that’s household plastic it should be fairly durable and really bouncy. I’ll be waiting for reply this will be amazing if you print it, trust me
I'm curious to how it would bounce if you used the two materials that bounced well in combined layers where maybe you have the softer Flexible PLA on the outside reinforced by the Overture PLA+ on the inside. Could also test having them reversed.
Two things you can try to get more bounce The first thing is something that might be difficult for you to do since you really need to be able to modify the original model file but increase the shell thickness not the shell thicknesses in the number of outer perimeters but the actual shell thickness of the three-dimensional model so look at your broken orange one see how thick the shell is think of it as the mantle of the planet if that were thicker it would have a bit more stiffness when printed with TPU The other thing you could try is something that would be easier to try but also expensive since it's very hard to find this filament and when I do find it it's crazy expensive like $65 for half a kilo or something like that carbon fiber TPU TPU has enough adhesion to be able to withstand the inclusion of carbon fiber without becoming too weak and the carbon fiber should give you a bit more stiffness and stiffness is what you need for bounce It's kind of counterintuitive but to make something bounce it actually needs to be stiff or more correctly it needs to have recoil that needs to have the ability to return to its original shape with force if it's simply flexes like TPU does you get the thud bounce that you have this is why your PLA ones actually bounce if they don't break :-) I'm actually fascinated by the gloop ball first you need to print it in purple of course and second I'd like to see how long it lasts and can you do that with other materials for example the PETG ones As for what to do with the broken ones the ones that cleanly broken half so you basically have two bowls use them for exactly that make a display dish or serving dish or candy dish out of them print a small cylinder to glue onto the bottom so that when you place them on the table they'll actually stand up and sell them or give them away anything is better than throwing them in the garbage. Sports fans would actually probably get a pretty big kick out of that.
According to a certain company the material is a chopped carbon fiber and tpu material. It was sls printed of course but if you can find a Cf-tpu filament it might get you close to the real deal. I handled the black prototype of the Wilson ball a few days again and its crazy how close to a real basketball it feels.
SBC might work. You can print SBC with the same profile as PETG in my experience but it is a little more flexible and break resistant. SBC is used for blister packages. I think "Glass" something (is it glass-flex?) filament is the same material. (Styrene Butadiene co-polymer)
Of course the obvious next step is Gloop the Overture Super PLA! Then Various Nylons. COEX has some really tough 30D to 60D TPE that would be very interesting to see in action! Ninjatek Armadillo, which is more in line with PETG.
Try TPE, PC, and Nylon. I recommend using an enclosure if you don't have one also you could try mixing thermoplastic polymers with foaming agents or additives that create gas bubbles when heated, resulting in a cellular structure similar to closed-cell foam. While there are some experimental filaments and techniques available, I can't recall where I saw them, but they helped me a lot with some projects similar to this.
Curious if they are placing additional layers of a coating like the Gloop ball but in a more "orderly controlled" process? Really want to print one out now😅
i mean, you should probably mix flliments so they work to each others strengths, or maybe add internal supports with other materials. the official balls probably have their own material they made and they may just be dipping them in something too
What about mixing flexible resin and ABs-like resin to get a mix that’s firm enough for shape, but also bouncy. You have resin printers big enough! Lol
I love Duramic filament from what I've used from them. Do any of the models have internal cross support? perhaps with the TPU 95A that would allow them to bounce.
Hear me out: dual extruder so you print a super PLA+ ball nesting perfectly inside of a TPU ball. Maybe the two filaments will offset one another's weaknesses so you get the perfect ball.
Printing them from nylon could work. Stay away from any glass or carbon filled ones and keep with a "pure" PA. I've been very impressed by how well polymaker CoPA prints after some projects needing nylon at work.
By the way TPU as you know (or maybe not🤷♂️) comes in different strengths using letter coordinating after the number A-D with D being the strongest and most rigid form of TPU
Should've swept the broken bits out of the way, between each bounce test. That's what broke the first SuperPLA ball. Also, I bet a Gloop coating on the SuperPLA balls would make them nearly indestructible!
I would suggest printing it with Nylon. Another suggestion would be to combine materials like ABS or Nylon for the main surface but use a flexible like TPU for the spines.
This might actually be a print that would benefit from upside down printing. Would supports no longer be needed? Or print upside down for the first half, then carefully flip it back over to print the top half to avoid the sagging that might happen when the print gets more than half way. This just popped in my head while watching people do this print and talk about supports.
I was wondering if you could combine the Gloop with one of the softer options. Instead of coating the entire structure in gloop, just coat the ‘seams’ in it. It would stiffen the structure while still allowing it to have the softer bounce you’re looking for.
If you watched the Wilson ball get created. They dip them all with some protection and I believe that you should try rubber filament and do both without Gloop and with Gloop
I have a feeling that only flexible filament will be able to stand the abuse the ball will be subject to, but it obviously won't bounce well on it's own. What if you print it using two filaments? Maybe the outer layers of the ball are printed using TPU and the inside is printed in the Super PLA+. I'm thinking that it could achieve a similar effect to the gloo ball. Maybe you'd need a printer with two hotends to make it work within an acceptable timeframe and minimal material waste, but that could be cool!
The first thing that comes to mind is dodgeball. The smaller ones would be great for that. You should mount the big pieces randomly on a spot on your wall looking like they got buried in the wall. Put dodgeball zone above the balls.
What about overture super PLA with 3D gloop, after youre done with basketballs you could make ping pong since they would print fast meaning you could make fast variations.
I think if there was a few outside parameter in one of the harder filaments and the inside layers was with a soft tpu might keep it from breaking and give it some bounce.
You gotta print it in PEBA. It has the highest energy return of any 3D printer filament. I did a video about it. Expensive, but it'll work way better than any other material.
Hey im interested in seeing this video… what is the video called on you channel i guess i didn’t look hard enough cause i cant find it… thanks!
@@MrMonkeyMan6133It’s his video abt different types of filaments, part 2 I think
yeah but who wants a $90 airless basketball when you can just go buy one for a fraction of the price? i suppose its better then 2000 bucks right?
would PEBA S work I want to print this for myself
Very interested in seeing this tested. In his video he tested a 100% infill sphere. In comparison to the tpu that was also 100% infill (different characteristics at higher densities) i feel like it may be the solution to the “flat-ball” bounce that tpu had
Could spray paint the gloop ball. Might wanna do like a 5,000 bounce test with it too 😂
I was thinking maybe 3D Gloop + plasti dip spray
@@UncleJessyWould be interesting to see if the platidip would hold up.
@@UncleJessySubmerge the ball in 3d gloop, then stick it in an enclosure and spin the ball real fast like a centrifuge to remove the excess? Might not work, but might also be crazy enough to do so.
I had the same thought, gloop it then spray paint it black and you could have a winner!
@@UncleJessyu could gloop the pls + super one
I don't have context on the models, but if you're taking a model and scaling it different sizes in the slicer, the hexagonal lattice structure isn't staying constant to compensate and would explain a lot of why the smaller ones bounce better.
Agreed. Tighter ball / potentially stronger vs the big one
do you understand how scale works?
@@UncleJessy it's just the material strenght.
the bigger ball is simply able to push the fillaments past their maximum stress and they break.
the whole point of scale is that as far as shape goes. (so the structure the op was talking about) stays EXACTLY proportional.
what you are not scaling along with it though. is the molucules and their bonds inside of the material itself. since you are not a mad scientist with a shrink ray.
wich means when scaling down you are essentially changing the material propperties. and not the structure.
(if you were to scale your perspective down along with the ball then everything remains the same but the material gets stronger)
I was just as shocked as you when the gloop PLA one bounced so high! Did NOT see that coming.
my jaw dropped literally
I love the round robin thing you and Joel did...
🔥🔥🏀
Gloop = Flubber
The broken pieces could totally be used for a cyberpunk or apocalypse armor cosplay!
I used carbon fiber pa12. 50% infill with the one with the lattice structure. Try it for yourself won't spoil it for you
I have a few carbon fiber blends i want to try.
Please spoil us, I want to know but that kind of filament is so expensive.
Isn't it way lighter than it has to be, without being 100%infill? It should be afaik around 625g...
This was so much fun! I really appreciate how many different materials you made use of - that was a LOT of printing there. Thanks for putting so much work into it!
For the flex pla: turn the temperature up to around 210-220 (or near whatever the max temp is for your brand), slow down your print by about 20% (so 80% speed of what you print pla at). In my experience it dosen't like to print big overhangs with these settings but comes out way cleaner.
it's almost as if more flexible fillaments need to be printed at slower speeds.
.
.
if only this was readely available information that has basicly been common knowledge for the past several years.
....
oh wait.
An inadvertent ad for Overture PLA+ and 3D Gloop! hahahahaha
haha I wish they were paying me ... now I need to gloop the Super PLA+
Jess I'm going to try Overture CoPA, they call it Easy Nylon, as it will be my first nylon material ever. The thing with the gloop is an astounding result tho. What doesn't convince me about PLA of any kind is heat resistance. I think on an outdoor basket field in summer, on tarmac, absorbing energy and dragforce, it might get really close to a temperature where the PLA is at risk. Not much of melting but to alter its properties.@@UncleJessy
If you look at the original, expensive ball, it has 2 layers, so it has room to spring. The lines on the basketballs tell me that the temperature might've been too cold for them to become one piece and the filament should be tougher but have just enough flexibility for it to work. But I think the 2 layers have a lot to do with it, because that way the ball absorbs the impact and has some extra springiness.
Is it possible to put the 3d gloop in a spray gun and very lightly spray it on so you don't have all the excess? maybe there is even a slight thining agent it can be cut with to make it easier to apply in thin layers?
You could use the broken halves as candy dishes
Ohhh thats a pretty good idea
@@UncleJessy it would look nice to place fruit but idk if you want since it's not really that safe :/
ABS and ASA have better impact resistance, as that is what you need is some high impact PLA or something. The ball needs to be somewhat rigid. Think on how a basketball works in that manner, it pretty hard when you feel it but it can deform slightly to bounce back up.
You have to print recreus's filaflex, they got the closest to the wilson one
I have a feeling the gloop along with fusing the layer lines also annealed the print to reduce internal stress.
In that I'd like to see if annealing the print helps makes it not just shatter right away.
Your video isn't goofy at all. It's super helpful! Thank you!
The 3dgloop seemed to make it bounce so much better
Carbon TPU is what you want. Sounds counter intuitive but it produces something close to tire rubber. It's extremely bouncy.
$2,500 for a ball is ridiculous Lol.
Exactly😂
Bro u could buy a car
@@mateoalollari5392you sure about that
The ball will be like 5 dollars, the investigation costed 2500 dollars
@@Wentto714yes you can
There's probably a reason, why they sell *working* 3d printed basketball at $2500 🙃
It cannot be reproduced with common printers and common materials.
Simplistic designs do not work as basket ball, though if they get plenty of downloads on MakerWorld, they give uploaders _free_ stuff (but the ball will still suck in feel, bounce, strength).
Layered lattice structure might be a key to _somewhat_ success, but layer adhesion will destroy balls printed with filament. Maybe some mixture of flexible and strong resins might work better?
Put the XL to use. Multi material print a basketball. TPU and PETG.
If only I bought the multi heads 🤦♂
This is where Joel comes in…..
The fart got me lol 10:46
maybe a stupid idea but XL can print in muli matrial ... tpu with pla/abs/asa/nylon core ?
Well I was thinking something like this too. Perhaps the inner shell of the ball could be printed in some short of hard material while the outer in any soft. That way it might actually bounce.
Can you please leave the download link to the file for the mini basketball
Use the broken ones (or print 1/2 balls) as chip trays for use during game parties!
I searched on Amazon for 3dgloop glue but i cant find it, where i can buy it?
Try soaking pla and petg in acetone. They get soft and rubbery after a few days
really? i thought that was just ABS
@UncleJessy abs dissolves, but I tested a few other filaments, and they either softened or became brittle.
i would think abs/asa with a liquid rubber coating. I think this will be the best option.
7:25 A fruit bowl!
I love how much fun you’re having with breaking the initial balls 😆
I was looking for this content exactly! I printed it for test in PETG, it bounced quite good those 10 bounces before cracking. I started from 20cm high and started bouncing higher and higher until at like 60 cm and a dozen bounces it cracked as I expected.
Now I'm going for a functional one!
Firmness and rubberiness are going to be important, but your *layer adhesion* is going to be most important. That's why the gloop helped so much. The ones that cracked all cracked on layer lines i'm sure. And the single level ones are definitely going to crack before the dual layer lattice ones. That dual layer is doing a LOT to support spreading out the impact over a larger area. So Max out layer adhesion in whatever way you can, try and make the layer structure more interwoven (prob impossible), and then just find the right level of bounce.
BUt yeah, thinning out the gloop and using a spray to put it on is going to help a lot as well.
plasticity.
rubberiness is not a word.
Woah one of my models spotted on a Uncle jessy video! (the Retro Ball one, Filete3D) For my part, I can say that I have obtained good results making even smaller copies (which began as a way to test materials quickly) and it triggered the idea that for the materials available in FDM the most appropriate thing to print and achieve is a tennis ball (from there the airless tennis ball 1.1). I am currently developing variants that accommodate the available materials such as TPU 95a, PLA Flex, adjusting the width of the walls and size of the hexagons and we are achieving great results! Either way, as usual, this is a great summary video of a maker experience. Thank you Jessy🙌
Would a printed ball with round holes vs hexagons maintain a better shape when bounced?
I'm not sure but im guessing the mad scientists who designed the wilson ball tested out a variety of shapes
I fucking love Jesse. He has been my go-to for printing since starting this hobby. Then sometimes it's just a dude smashing stuff on his floor. Love it. Keep rocking brother.
I’d be curious to see how an ABS filament would fare with this. It’s a little more flexible and rigid than PLA so should in theory deform and spring back a bit more without breaking. Not sure if it really would hold up to much abuse though.
For this sort of thing you need a material that’s stiff enough to overcome the lack of internal air pressure but not so stiff that it cracks and breaks. It’s a fine line to ride and idk if there’s a filament out there at the consumer level that really fits the bill.
It’s kind of pricey, but maybe MatterHackers Pro Flex filament would be the right flexible-rigid ratio.
I wonder what ABS or ASA would be like.. or a carbon fiber or nylon..
I was totally working on a video very similar to this, then I saw you on instagram and I was like dang it! 😆 I’m so intrigued with the different filaments and “durability”
you should still go ahead! more plastics testing and configs, more data to learn from!
Make yours!!! I want to see others take on these
Are these all 100% infill?
So the gloop is the elatomeric equivalent of the rubber and the PLA provides the rigidity and energy return.
Elastomeric
Roller brush on Silastic silicone over PC. Elastomeric plus rigid component should equal energy return, ie, bounce. The elastomer protects the printed component while latter returns to its original shape more aggressively.
You should try putting the 3d gloop on the super pla + ball
Oohhhh my god, thank you, thank you just thank you for that video! I love it, I really need to try it
I'm honestly curious how a rubber resin print would do, as a person with a resin printer, could potentially be interesting
I would think ABS would be a better choice since it's not so rigid and can take impacts very well.
Can i get the print settings for the little ball made from the super pla @ 7:40 please
I’m impressed with the speed you upload the video. I’m thinking about ASA, since it is lighter so it might bounce higher.
Was a late night of editing to get this out today but sooo much fun to shoot. Asa might be a good option as well
@@UncleJessywould Nylon also be a possible material choice?
I read that nylon is a better choice to print in. For the ball to actually bounce like it's supposed to.
Use two different filiments, 95A TPU in the outer walls with TPU+ in the inner walls, that way it has a bouncy rigidity and a grippy outer surface, plus a little more heft.
I printed the airless basketball in ASA on my Voron in an 80C chamber and it's bouncing. It's not the filament, it's the fact that desktop printers are trash. ASA with actual layer adhesion is ideal for the airless basketball. There is a reason industrial printers have chambers up to 250C.
Maybe you could print it with ABS, then acetone smooth it to help bind the layers like you did with the 3D Gloop. Not sure how well it would work, but it's worth a shot (pun intended) ;)
i feel like i wanna try vapor smoothed abs for this! like the gloop, but a more even and easy way to melt the layers together
Try TPC. Its a hyper elastic TPE like filament. I was reading I think ALL3Dp and they said wilson was using a special TPC blend.
Loved this video.
Such a fun video to watch.
Joel's showed up 1st on my feed. So came here from there. The reason the TPU doesn't bounce as much is the same reason a matress in a gym doesn't let you bounce much when you fall on it. The material properties absorbs the impact, dispersing the energy upwards as the impact prgresses. It folds in on itself. So most of the energy is gone. Stiffness stores the energy for the bounce back. reason the PLA could bounce, sortoff. But the downside is stress fractures caused by storing all that energy in an unforgiving material. Just basic impact science. I will be posting this on Joel's side aswell.
heck yeah! Glad you made it over and saw his. Thanks for the extra details. Love the feel of the TPU/FlexPLA prints but obviously would prefer they bounced ;)
Jessy, could you please try ABS? As that’s household plastic it should be fairly durable and really bouncy. I’ll be waiting for reply this will be amazing if you print it, trust me
Dang that goop is effective.
I almost sprayed my coffee everywhere watching that first attempt 😂😂😂
I'm curious to how it would bounce if you used the two materials that bounced well in combined layers where maybe you have the softer Flexible PLA on the outside reinforced by the Overture PLA+ on the inside. Could also test having them reversed.
Hi Jessy looking for a super tough pla to print a prototype 1:12 scale vehicle in any suggestions?
What nozzle size were you using?
the orange halves at 07:00 from the super PLA are hands down the most amazing fruit bowls!!
Two things you can try to get more bounce The first thing is something that might be difficult for you to do since you really need to be able to modify the original model file but increase the shell thickness not the shell thicknesses in the number of outer perimeters but the actual shell thickness of the three-dimensional model so look at your broken orange one see how thick the shell is think of it as the mantle of the planet if that were thicker it would have a bit more stiffness when printed with TPU
The other thing you could try is something that would be easier to try but also expensive since it's very hard to find this filament and when I do find it it's crazy expensive like $65 for half a kilo or something like that carbon fiber TPU TPU has enough adhesion to be able to withstand the inclusion of carbon fiber without becoming too weak and the carbon fiber should give you a bit more stiffness and stiffness is what you need for bounce
It's kind of counterintuitive but to make something bounce it actually needs to be stiff or more correctly it needs to have recoil that needs to have the ability to return to its original shape with force if it's simply flexes like TPU does you get the thud bounce that you have this is why your PLA ones actually bounce if they don't break :-)
I'm actually fascinated by the gloop ball first you need to print it in purple of course and second I'd like to see how long it lasts and can you do that with other materials for example the PETG ones
As for what to do with the broken ones the ones that cleanly broken half so you basically have two bowls use them for exactly that make a display dish or serving dish or candy dish out of them print a small cylinder to glue onto the bottom so that when you place them on the table they'll actually stand up and sell them or give them away anything is better than throwing them in the garbage. Sports fans would actually probably get a pretty big kick out of that.
Love the idea for the Gloopsketball 😂 Amazing video as always Uncle Jessy
According to a certain company the material is a chopped carbon fiber and tpu material. It was sls printed of course but if you can find a Cf-tpu filament it might get you close to the real deal. I handled the black prototype of the Wilson ball a few days again and its crazy how close to a real basketball it feels.
How would carbon fiber infused materials perform?
Like some sort of carbon fiber TPU to give it rigidity and strength for bouncing and flexibility for absorbing some of the impact.
yeah will be looking into that as well.
SBC might work. You can print SBC with the same profile as PETG in my experience but it is a little more flexible and break resistant. SBC is used for blister packages. I think "Glass" something (is it glass-flex?) filament is the same material. (Styrene Butadiene co-polymer)
Of course the obvious next step is Gloop the Overture Super PLA! Then Various Nylons. COEX has some really tough 30D to 60D TPE that would be very interesting to see in action! Ninjatek Armadillo, which is more in line with PETG.
100% tetsing the glooped Super PLA.
Will take a look into those other filaments
Try TPE, PC, and Nylon. I recommend using an enclosure if you don't have one also you could try mixing thermoplastic polymers with foaming agents or additives that create gas bubbles when heated, resulting in a cellular structure similar to closed-cell foam. While there are some experimental filaments and techniques available, I can't recall where I saw them, but they helped me a lot with some projects similar to this.
Curious if they are placing additional layers of a coating like the Gloop ball but in a more "orderly controlled" process?
Really want to print one out now😅
i mean, you should probably mix flliments so they work to each others strengths, or maybe add internal supports with other materials. the official balls probably have their own material they made and they may just be dipping them in something too
You could use the orange one that broke in half and strengthen it with resin so you could use it as like a chip bowl or popcorn bowl
What about mixing flexible resin and ABs-like resin to get a mix that’s firm enough for shape, but also bouncy. You have resin printers big enough! Lol
I love Duramic filament from what I've used from them. Do any of the models have internal cross support? perhaps with the TPU 95A that would allow them to bounce.
Dont the ball need air to bounce? Have you tried this in a vacuum? Doubt it works with all the holes on the body unless made out of elastic maybe
Hear me out: dual extruder so you print a super PLA+ ball nesting perfectly inside of a TPU ball. Maybe the two filaments will offset one another's weaknesses so you get the perfect ball.
Printing them from nylon could work. Stay away from any glass or carbon filled ones and keep with a "pure" PA. I've been very impressed by how well polymaker CoPA prints after some projects needing nylon at work.
I'm curious about some of the composite filaments. Like wood and mettle pla, exct...
Just wondering, will nozzle size make the difference? I've heard 1mm prints are more durable than smaller ones
By the way
TPU as you know (or maybe not🤷♂️) comes in different strengths using letter coordinating after the number
A-D with D being the strongest and most rigid form of TPU
Maybe nylon might have the right balance between flex and rigidity and bounce well (but surely not as the glooped pla)
I wonder if you used an idex printer to combine some of the rigidity of the PLA+ with an outside of the flexible pla as an initial cushion.
Should've swept the broken bits out of the way, between each bounce test. That's what broke the first SuperPLA ball.
Also, I bet a Gloop coating on the SuperPLA balls would make them nearly indestructible!
oh man... i didnt even think about glooping the SuperPLA balls... going to do that this weekend!
🤚 question, if you used a triangular structure as opposed to hexagons would it be stronger as I see lots of attempts instantly exploding
I would suggest printing it with Nylon. Another suggestion would be to combine materials like ABS or Nylon for the main surface but use a flexible like TPU for the spines.
wonder if ya melt all and make a single mixed thread and use that to compensate both rigidity and flexibility?
This might actually be a print that would benefit from upside down printing. Would supports no longer be needed? Or print upside down for the first half, then carefully flip it back over to print the top half to avoid the sagging that might happen when the print gets more than half way. This just popped in my head while watching people do this print and talk about supports.
I was wondering if you could combine the Gloop with one of the softer options. Instead of coating the entire structure in gloop, just coat the ‘seams’ in it. It would stiffen the structure while still allowing it to have the softer bounce you’re looking for.
If you watched the Wilson ball get created. They dip them all with some protection and I believe that you should try rubber filament and do both without Gloop and with Gloop
It needs a lattice structure from resin printing to get a bounce like that.
But for FDM I'd try fiberflex 30D
So then what if you dye the glue and try it on the various filaments especially the bigger basketballs would have more regidity
I have a feeling that only flexible filament will be able to stand the abuse the ball will be subject to, but it obviously won't bounce well on it's own.
What if you print it using two filaments? Maybe the outer layers of the ball are printed using TPU and the inside is printed in the Super PLA+. I'm thinking that it could achieve a similar effect to the gloo ball. Maybe you'd need a printer with two hotends to make it work within an acceptable timeframe and minimal material waste, but that could be cool!
They should make microphones that can clip on to cloths.
😂🤣 it was tugging on my T-shirt and driving me crazy. I just printed a magnetic attachment for it
The first thing that comes to mind is dodgeball. The smaller ones would be great for that. You should mount the big pieces randomly on a spot on your wall looking like they got buried in the wall. Put dodgeball zone above the balls.
New material to try : Armadillo from NinjaTech. The hardest TPU so it won't shatter like PLA, it is Shore 75D.
The balls broken in half could maybe be a chip holder with dip... you might get crubs tho lol
What about overture super PLA with 3D gloop, after youre done with basketballs you could make ping pong since they would print fast meaning you could make fast variations.
From vision to product, 3D printing makes it seamless.
I think if there was a few outside parameter in one of the harder filaments and the inside layers was with a soft tpu might keep it from breaking and give it some bounce.
i say you take all the broken pieces and put them in a cast and have an airless basketball made of airless basketball fragments