Cheers mate! I'm really impressed with the HowNot2 online store too. It's probably the best online store I've ever seen. You've even got photos of the different drill bit sizes!
Dear Mr. Mullet, You have no idea how happy it makes me to see my brainchild being used by a fellow climber at the other end of the planet. This is amazing :) Some minor notes from my side: In general ZÆD is intended to be used in sports climbs with good protection, like modern sports crags or climbing gyms. I can truly understand that a second bolt at 7m height doesn't invite for a device that doesn't add friction before that second bolt. That style of bolting asks for some very special type of climbers. Pretty bold! Level 3 is meant for either very large weight differences or overhanging climbs where the first bolt often offers limited options for the device to flip upwards, since there's steep rock in the way. Of course it can also be used for toprope climbs. ZÆD was also designed to only engage when the rope strand towards the belayer is loaded. I love how you demonstrate both scenarios: ZÆD engaging when the belay strand is loaded and ZÆD not providing friction when the belay strand is completely unloaded. That's exactly how it was designed to work. This allows the belayer to adjust their tactics for different belay scenarios like fast rope feeding without friction or actively short roping and engaging the device to shorten the fall distance when needed. Regarding one hand use while being in the climb: ZÆD wasn't designed for that and I honestly wouldn't recommend it. I'd rather preload the device while still being on the ground and attach it to my harness' gear loop like a regular quickdraw before getting into the climb. Thats much easier in my experienvce. If you or your viewers have any questions left about ZÆD, please feel free to get in touch with me. Either here in the comments or directly via the whatsapp number of our shop (+4917615002220) or via instagram or facebook messenger (@raedclimbing). I'll try to answer every message as quick as I can. Greetings from the mountains of the Allgäu in Germany (but very close to the Austrian border), also to Mrs. Mullet. Climb hard, Stephan from raed climbing.
Thanks mate! Love your work. I look forward to seeing more of these being used around the world. I saw the Zaed on Facebook ads and ordered it straight away in December. It makes climbing much safer and more enjoyable, and most importantly, keep Mrs mullet safe when I'm on the sharp end
I switched from Ohm to ZAED and never wanna move back. Quick hint: You're not supposed to fumble the rope into the ZAED while climbing. You do it before (on the ground) and then just clip the ZAED's carabiner (including the ZAED and the rope) on the 1nd bolt once you've reached it. Just the way you would clip your normal quickdraw. No fumbling around at all.
Great review! 3 points: The Zead is from Germany ;) The 3rd mode is for roofs, not for toprope I see the main application in well protected sport climbing, also indoor. There you can pre clip or you will not fall anyways.
I just got a Zaed and love it so far! Tried it a few times at the gym. Good for taking whippers at level 2 with a belayer 60 lbs lighter. Much safer. Cant wait to try it outdoors.
When I was using the Ohm, I was clipping the rope into it before I stared climbing. This way, I just had to clip the Ohm into the first bolt with the rope already installed into it. I think the same can be done with the Zaed.
Correct: the rope is installed into ZÆD while being at the bottom of the climb, not while hanging in the route. Once you take off the ground all you do is clip it to the first bolt.
Awesome review! The zaed needing the second bolt clipped is interesting. I wonder if there would be way to make your own little system that extends the zaed a few feet below the first bolt, and then has a steely locker up by the bolt and the rope runs though both, giving the zaed room to lift up and engage, being pulled up by the steely. Especially in an area like yours where the first bolts are seemingly very high, I wonder if it would work. Maybe not worth the effort though.
Actually thinking about this more I kinda forgot the Zaed has to be attached to a fixed point, you couldn’t just hang below the bolt from some webbing. That would make this a lot harder. Probably not practical but a fun idea!
I've tried and honestly can't find a way. Best idea I had was use it upside down so The rope doesn't run over the rotating pin. But I think the only way to do it is put a long runner of the second bolt so you can clip it lower down. That or not redesign the device so you can put the rope between 2 static pins. I guess we'll see what happens in a few years
Yeah I was going to say the Zaed seems to have been thought to work together with a clip stick, but then it seems it wouldn't work for the routes you have over there 😂 that kind of bolting is kinda scary!
Yeah at first I thought it was useless but then I realised it's just not for my situation. I know it's common when setting up on a project in some places to stick clip all the way up to get established, so that's more their target market
Just got the Ohm II. game changer. Much smoother to use and lighter than first generation. I see the appeal of Zaed, but the operation looks trickier. Of course, once you learn, you learn.
Interesting, I my gym got the ohm 2 (I don't own one yet) but I thought it felt the same smoothness. Lighter yes, and shorter. Not sure how that affects its performance. Didn't use it much though, will have to get onto that!
The Ohm 2 adds even more friction then the first generation. If the weight difference is not big enough, you have to belay very special, otherwise it’s a pretty hard catch.
Worth a try! but also see what your belayer is doing. Stephan from RAED & I did some tests and worked out the belayer needs to move differently with the different devices. They need to give a hard catch to get similar results with the ZAED. The ohm just catches hard regardless
trad? a gear placement that a R.esistive A.ssistive D.evice is "secure" in, will withstand both down and upwards pulls. horizontal break with a 5/5 deep set cam using the soft flexible parts as a re-direct? prolly ok. a 'standard vertical' nut placement that is bommer downwards, will most likely be lifted out of the V constriction in the rock if/when the RAD activates. (an unseated nut would leave a RAD whizzing towards the belayers hands.) amazed if the manufacturer's condone use in this environment! i thiiink: a RAD provides a softer experience for the belayer, a harder catch for the climber and does it put more strain on the 1st placement? if the second placement is in? foh sho. more strain on the highest placement? a Qu for HN2! should the 1st placement be an equalised and redundant anchor in it's own right? hmmmmm. fascinating bits of kit, yet to use either in person. hope the above helps. :-j (lightweight trad second; should they have their own directional sub anchor to control their position in the case of a large weight imbalance? not always practical to rig.)
6.45.....nah mate it's not just people saying it - it's a fact. You just pulling on it is in no way representative to actually leading and pulling slack. Why on earth you would want to 'install it with one hand' anyway....
Ok, fair bit to unpack there. 1:It's not a fact for me! 7 years of use and it's never really been a problem. 2: um, ok? 3: when the ohm is on the wall but the rope isn't. Like how you clip quickdraws with one hand. You must have a very idiosyncratic climbing style because you just wrote 3 unusual things in a row
Correction: Raed is from Germany, not Austria. Sorry guys. The Zaed was certified in Austria, hence the labeling.
Great review. Use his discount code in his description on anything we got so we can support what he is doing. We do stock both the Zaed and the Ohm2.
Cheers mate! I'm really impressed with the HowNot2 online store too. It's probably the best online store I've ever seen. You've even got photos of the different drill bit sizes!
Dear Mr. Mullet,
You have no idea how happy it makes me to see my brainchild being used by a fellow climber at the other end of the planet. This is amazing :)
Some minor notes from my side:
In general ZÆD is intended to be used in sports climbs with good protection, like modern sports crags or climbing gyms. I can truly understand that a second bolt at 7m height doesn't invite for a device that doesn't add friction before that second bolt. That style of bolting asks for some very special type of climbers. Pretty bold!
Level 3 is meant for either very large weight differences or overhanging climbs where the first bolt often offers limited options for the device to flip upwards, since there's steep rock in the way. Of course it can also be used for toprope climbs.
ZÆD was also designed to only engage when the rope strand towards the belayer is loaded. I love how you demonstrate both scenarios: ZÆD engaging when the belay strand is loaded and ZÆD not providing friction when the belay strand is completely unloaded. That's exactly how it was designed to work. This allows the belayer to adjust their tactics for different belay scenarios like fast rope feeding without friction or actively short roping and engaging the device to shorten the fall distance when needed.
Regarding one hand use while being in the climb: ZÆD wasn't designed for that and I honestly wouldn't recommend it. I'd rather preload the device while still being on the ground and attach it to my harness' gear loop like a regular quickdraw before getting into the climb. Thats much easier in my experienvce.
If you or your viewers have any questions left about ZÆD, please feel free to get in touch with me. Either here in the comments or directly via the whatsapp number of our shop (+4917615002220) or via instagram or facebook messenger (@raedclimbing). I'll try to answer every message as quick as I can.
Greetings from the mountains of the Allgäu in Germany (but very close to the Austrian border), also to Mrs. Mullet. Climb hard, Stephan from raed climbing.
P.S.: I'd say the first pronounciation is the best sounding one :D
Thanks mate! Love your work. I look forward to seeing more of these being used around the world. I saw the Zaed on Facebook ads and ordered it straight away in December. It makes climbing much safer and more enjoyable, and most importantly, keep Mrs mullet safe when I'm on the sharp end
Lol youtube is so small sometimes 😂 nice design though! I can see use cases for it for sure.
@@TijmenHatesads Thanks :)
I switched from Ohm to ZAED and never wanna move back.
Quick hint: You're not supposed to fumble the rope into the ZAED while climbing. You do it before (on the ground) and then just clip the ZAED's carabiner (including the ZAED and the rope) on the 1nd bolt once you've reached it. Just the way you would clip your normal quickdraw. No fumbling around at all.
Second bolt?
@@hansonlife9465 1stnd
Great review! 3 points:
The Zead is from Germany ;)
The 3rd mode is for roofs, not for toprope
I see the main application in well protected sport climbing, also indoor. There you can pre clip or you will not fall anyways.
Ah so they are! The rating was done in Austria. Apologies to Raed
I agree to all 3 points :)
I just got a Zaed and love it so far! Tried it a few times at the gym. Good for taking whippers at level 2 with a belayer 60 lbs lighter. Much safer. Cant wait to try it outdoors.
Yeah let us know how it goes! My gym said hell no
@@MountainMullet your climbing gym doesn't allow the use of ZÆD? What's their reason for that? :O
Australia being scared of climbing! Insurance at least is very strict here. They only allowed lead climbing like 5 years ago!
When I was using the Ohm, I was clipping the rope into it before I stared climbing. This way, I just had to clip the Ohm into the first bolt with the rope already installed into it.
I think the same can be done with the Zaed.
Correct: the rope is installed into ZÆD while being at the bottom of the climb, not while hanging in the route. Once you take off the ground all you do is clip it to the first bolt.
Awesome review! The zaed needing the second bolt clipped is interesting. I wonder if there would be way to make your own little system that extends the zaed a few feet below the first bolt, and then has a steely locker up by the bolt and the rope runs though both, giving the zaed room to lift up and engage, being pulled up by the steely. Especially in an area like yours where the first bolts are seemingly very high, I wonder if it would work. Maybe not worth the effort though.
Actually thinking about this more I kinda forgot the Zaed has to be attached to a fixed point, you couldn’t just hang below the bolt from some webbing. That would make this a lot harder. Probably not practical but a fun idea!
I've tried and honestly can't find a way. Best idea I had was use it upside down so The rope doesn't run over the rotating pin. But I think the only way to do it is put a long runner of the second bolt so you can clip it lower down. That or not redesign the device so you can put the rope between 2 static pins. I guess we'll see what happens in a few years
Such a crime i only found aussie hownot2 now and that he only has 500 subs whats wrong with the world
It's cos I don't have the mullet full time 😥
1:32 Depending on what hole I stick it in the resistance varies? Even if it's wet? Appreciate you lol
Settle down mate😂
👀
Yeah I was going to say the Zaed seems to have been thought to work together with a clip stick, but then it seems it wouldn't work for the routes you have over there 😂 that kind of bolting is kinda scary!
Yeah at first I thought it was useless but then I realised it's just not for my situation. I know it's common when setting up on a project in some places to stick clip all the way up to get established, so that's more their target market
Fantastic comparison, thank you!
The fact that the Zaed doesn’t work on the first bolt is a total dealbreaker
Just got the Ohm II. game changer. Much smoother to use and lighter than first generation. I see the appeal of Zaed, but the operation looks trickier. Of course, once you learn, you learn.
Interesting, I my gym got the ohm 2 (I don't own one yet) but I thought it felt the same smoothness. Lighter yes, and shorter. Not sure how that affects its performance. Didn't use it much though, will have to get onto that!
The Ohm 2 adds even more friction then the first generation. If the weight difference is not big enough, you have to belay very special, otherwise it’s a pretty hard catch.
I am considering getting it. I got a hard catch on the gen 2 ohm yesterday and it tweaked my back.
Worth a try! but also see what your belayer is doing. Stephan from RAED & I did some tests and worked out the belayer needs to move differently with the different devices. They need to give a hard catch to get similar results with the ZAED. The ohm just catches hard regardless
@@MountainMulletjust ordered it. Looking forward to using it.
Maybe interesting for trad where softer catch is easier on your gear?
trad? a gear placement that a R.esistive A.ssistive D.evice is "secure" in, will withstand both down and upwards pulls.
horizontal break with a 5/5 deep set cam using the soft flexible parts as a re-direct? prolly ok.
a 'standard vertical' nut placement that is bommer downwards, will most likely be lifted out of the V constriction in the rock if/when the RAD activates.
(an unseated nut would leave a RAD whizzing towards the belayers hands.) amazed if the manufacturer's condone use in this environment!
i thiiink: a RAD provides a softer experience for the belayer, a harder catch for the climber and does it put more strain on the 1st placement? if the second placement is in? foh sho. more strain on the highest placement? a Qu for HN2!
should the 1st placement be an equalised and redundant anchor in it's own right? hmmmmm.
fascinating bits of kit, yet to use either in person. hope the above helps. :-j
(lightweight trad second; should they have their own directional sub anchor to control their position in the case of a large weight imbalance? not always practical to rig.)
ahhh but the first quickdraw is where weight difference can result in harder slams
But, it's nexesesary to put the rope in the element during climbing? May it could ve pass trhour after climb?
It's easier to install the rope before or after you climb
Super interesting. Great review, interested because the opposite of you, because I am pretty skinny guy so everyone quickly exceeds my weight!
Awesome
Graet reviwe
6.45.....nah mate it's not just people saying it - it's a fact. You just pulling on it is in no way representative to actually leading and pulling slack. Why on earth you would want to 'install it with one hand' anyway....
Ok, fair bit to unpack there.
1:It's not a fact for me! 7 years of use and it's never really been a problem.
2: um, ok?
3: when the ohm is on the wall but the rope isn't. Like how you clip quickdraws with one hand.
You must have a very idiosyncratic climbing style because you just wrote 3 unusual things in a row