Got my Ohm II few days ago. As a heavy climber (roughly around 100kgs) owning Ohm II widens range of people who can belay me without hurting me or them. Thank you Edelrid :)
After having climbed with it for a session at the gym there are things I like and don’t like about it. The things I like are: Not having to worry about back clipping. Feeds through really smooth so you can pull kinda fast without worrying about it locking like the ohm 1. Slack doesn’t build up on top of the device when you’re switching to top roping after clipping, which was something kinda annoying for the belayer with the ohm 1. The thing I don’t like about the ohm 2 is that it spikes the climber pretty hard. I’ve taken falls from multiple heights above different clips with my partner standing in various positions attempting to give a soft catch to no avail. My belayer says it seems like the device itself is catching the majority of the fall and they can’t give a soft catch. The last fall I took was around 15ft and it was the hardest catch I’ve ever experienced despite my climber jumping into it. Our weight difference is around 20kg so should be perfect for this device. This is a huge negative imo and I’ll probably only use the device on stuff where there is a real risk of falling before the 3rd clip. Never had an issue with soft catches with the ohm 1.
I own the Ohm 1 and have demoed the Ohm 2 via a rep at the gym I work at. In my opinion, if you have the extra cash for the new one, it is definitely worth it. It works so much better in terms of clipping efficiency; the device doesn't short rope you unless you give it all you've got to attempt to make it activate. ALso, not having to worry about back clipping is a welcome bonus. It also gives a relatively soft catch. I rarely need my Ohm 1 and I don't like to reach for it unless it's necessary. To put it another way, Edelrid knocked it so far out of the park with the updates to this device, I will be upgrading when it becomes available in my country because it will be something I'll be glad to have and use when I need it.
ich wiege 82 kg und meine Freundin 46kg auf 155. wir nutzen auch das ohm 2 und sie hat schon erfolgreich 2-3 3-4m whipper abfangen können ohne komplett in die Luft zu gehen. Top Gerät
Nice education video.. I hv already bought the ohm 2 been using afew times.. works so much better than the previous version .. as I hv own both . good job on climb innovation n refinement edelrid !
This definitely sounds like a great improvement! I might try to get my friend to try it out with me when it becomes available in my area. I own an ohm 1 that never gets used because of the high number of false activations with it, but it really does work well when I'm not struggling to have it not lock up on my partner (I've belayed someone with about 55kg/2x my body weight on quite comfortably with an ohm 1)
Perfektes Produkt ! Bravo, Team Edelrid ! Bei uns in Tirol sieht man das Tool sehr oft ! Sympathischste Werbeträgerin kommt ja auch aus Tirol ! V2 kauf Ich demnächst 👏
Please post improved numbers of weight difference of OHM1 too!! He said it's roughly 10kg less than OHM2 so in theory only 15kg? (and then add the weight difference allowable at your criteria... ie. german alpine club: 10kg) Finally thank you Edelrid for your innovating products and continued development of them!
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer. When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then. Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less). Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
Seems the new one adresses some issues I had with the first one, but the recommendated weight difference makes me nervous (wife:55 me:95😅) but since it works like the first one we should be fine!
Awesome video. Edelrid is at the forefront of climbing technology. Yet they seem not to have discovered the advanced grooming equipment now available on the market such as the Comb.
There is a problem with the Ohm 1 which nobody mentions here and caused us to stop using it. If the second bolt is not directly above the first, the rope comes out of the Ohm at an angle. This causes the Ohm to improperly activate when clipping and lowering. The Ohm activated several times while clipping on lead and activated 7 times while lowering on a 20m climb. To get it to deactivate I had to almost get all my weight off the rope. I'm curious if the Ohm 2 will have the same problem.
Can I ask… what’s the advantage of the new one? I have the old one. I found with the old one I could not clip quickly or I would engage the ohm, and my belayer had plenty of slack. It would be nice to see an ohm that allows for quicker clipping.
I have the same question ! I already have a ohm 1. The swivel is a very nice feature, but it won’t convince me to buy a version 2… However, if the ohm 2 is better at not engaging when I am trying to clip… then this might convince me to buy a new one, as this is quite annoying when it happens !
With the update of the OHM to the second generation we implemented several improvements: - Thanks to the updated geometry the risk of false activations is minimized while providing at the same time more friction when activated (watch at 1:16) - Integrated swivel, thus direction of the device does not play a role anymore (watch at 2:17). Similar to using quick draws, we still recommend to install the carabiner with the gate opposite to the subsequent rope course. - Improved opening & closing mechanism (watch at 1:39)
In order to allow the OHM to activate in a lead climbing scenario, the belayer must be positioned in an horizontal distance of 1m from the first quickdraw. Please also refer to our user manual.
I see there is some confusion going around here. I'll take the liberty of trying to explain more clearly what Phil is trying to say. The idea is that when they launched the OHM 1 they estimated the maximum weight difference differently. The method they used to estimate kilograms was less accurate. They also added an extra 10 kilograms over the Alpine Club's recommendation. As a result, they gained 40 kilograms then. Now they have changed the method of estimating the difference in kilograms and have also decided to remove the extra 10 kilograms. Having estimated OHM 2 in this way, they obtained a maximum difference of 25 kilograms. Then they also estimated OHM 1 in the new way and got 15 kilos maximum difference. And finally, they calculated that OHM 2 can compensate for 10 kilograms more than OHM 1 (25 - 15 = 10). I hope I have understood things correctly and that I am not causing more confusion. If I'm wrong, I ask Edelrid to correct me.
Which means that if you were climbing with OHM I with let's say a difference of 40kg and it was fine for you you can use OHM II with a difference of 50kg even if it is no more recommended now...
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer. When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then. Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less). Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
Sorry, did i understand correctly that ohm 2 compensates for more KG differnece than ohm 1? In other words, it adds more friction to the system so that even lighter belayer can belay leader of the same weight? Is that what is said at 6:30. Thanks
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer. When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then. Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less). Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 Kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
Gutes Video - vielen Dank! Wäre es jedoch möglich, das Video auch noch in Deutscher Sprache nachzureichen? So würden viele (z.B. DAV`ler) sich vielleicht leichter tun, den Unterschied zwischen der jetzigen 25 Kg-Angabe und der damaligen 40Kg-Angabe zu verstehen.
The OHM is not designed for the use of two OHM devices within one rope system. The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID!) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer. When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then. Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less). Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference than the OHM I. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. You can therefore expect a smoother handling and a better performance.
That 10kg difference seems extremely overblown. I've belayed people 20kg heavier than me and it was completely fine. You do have to be a competent belayer though, a bad belayer is dangerous, Ohm or no Ohm. Of course, falling from the second quickdraw is always a risky situation, but good belaying can compensate greatly for most risks, including collisions.
I think this video is a really great example of how someone wanted to make things simpler (something something about 25 kg) and made it much more confusing instead.
Interesting how two numbers is too much for some people, that are probably allowed to drive cars :) Take this comment with humor, but I am pretty sure you could have not explained the communication for the old Ohm in your own words in a correct way.
@@JannickTappe I might or might not be bad with numbers, who knows. So with all the humor, please help me: Old Ohm was 40 kg. New Ohm offsets 25 kg and the max weight difference is 10 kg. So 35 kg in total. Did I get this correctly?
@@drstrangelove85 yes exactly. The ohm makes the belayer 25 kg heavier. Now depending on who you ask or what recommendation you want to follow, you add this number as well. From the German Alpen Club this is 10kg max difference. So with the Ohm that's a total of 35kg weight difference.
What happens if the weight difference is greater than rated? Will the device be useless? Bought the ohm 1 a couple months ago for a child to belay an adult figuring any help would be better than none. The gym allows us to climb to second bolt with her belaying me (heaviest in group)(she is too young they will not let her certify) so she has been getting experience with a 100 lb difference with no ohm and minimal risk of injury. Looking forward to getting her belaying outside and trying to help be as safe as possible for her.
We as EDELRID can only comment on the pure weight difference compensation when using the OHM. We are not able to assess the individual experience of both climber and belayer or the capability of a child belaying an adult. It is up to the individual climbing parties to decide, if they consider climbing together as safe. *Regarding the weight difference compensation please also refer to our replies on previous comments:* The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID!) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer. When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then. Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less). Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference than the OHM I. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. You can therefore expect a smoother handling and a better performance.
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer. When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then. Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less). Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
did I understand correctly? safe weight difference is 10kg and at the top of that we have 25kg compensation with ohm2, so 35kg safe weight difference using this device?
correct. but depending on your belaying skills etc. the safe weight difference could be considered more. e.g. if you are belaying someone in toprope and know how to belay dynamically...
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer. When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then. Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less). Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 Kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
congrats in making it more complicated trying to make it simpler. I understood its 5kg worse than the old one, yet you telling in the end its 10kg better :>
@@tiamat87 they changed the method for determining safe wight difference as well. According to the old method: - you can use Ohm I with 30+10kg weight fidd - (theoretically) you can use Ohm II with 40+10kg diff According to the new method: - you can use Ohm I with 15+10kg diff - you can use Ohm II with 25+10kg diff If for your purpose / sklls the old method was ok, you may go up to 50kg diff...
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer. When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then. Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less). Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 Kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
The Ohm is a blight on climbing. I weigh 93kg (205 lb) and have had lots of people weighing 50 kg give me nice, soft lead catches. The Ohm signs you up for a guaranteed ankle-breaking hard catch and fosters bad technique for both belayer and climber and will limit growth of both in climbing. The alarmist nonsense that is promulgated by Edelrid and Ohm proponents is shameful.
Got my Ohm II few days ago. As a heavy climber (roughly around 100kgs) owning Ohm II widens range of people who can belay me without hurting me or them.
Thank you Edelrid :)
After having climbed with it for a session at the gym there are things I like and don’t like about it. The things I like are: Not having to worry about back clipping. Feeds through really smooth so you can pull kinda fast without worrying about it locking like the ohm 1. Slack doesn’t build up on top of the device when you’re switching to top roping after clipping, which was something kinda annoying for the belayer with the ohm 1. The thing I don’t like about the ohm 2 is that it spikes the climber pretty hard. I’ve taken falls from multiple heights above different clips with my partner standing in various positions attempting to give a soft catch to no avail. My belayer says it seems like the device itself is catching the majority of the fall and they can’t give a soft catch. The last fall I took was around 15ft and it was the hardest catch I’ve ever experienced despite my climber jumping into it. Our weight difference is around 20kg so should be perfect for this device. This is a huge negative imo and I’ll probably only use the device on stuff where there is a real risk of falling before the 3rd clip. Never had an issue with soft catches with the ohm 1.
I own the Ohm 1 and have demoed the Ohm 2 via a rep at the gym I work at. In my opinion, if you have the extra cash for the new one, it is definitely worth it. It works so much better in terms of clipping efficiency; the device doesn't short rope you unless you give it all you've got to attempt to make it activate. ALso, not having to worry about back clipping is a welcome bonus. It also gives a relatively soft catch. I rarely need my Ohm 1 and I don't like to reach for it unless it's necessary. To put it another way, Edelrid knocked it so far out of the park with the updates to this device, I will be upgrading when it becomes available in my country because it will be something I'll be glad to have and use when I need it.
That’s great to hear. I didn’t try it yet but it looks like a worthwhile upgrade. I think I’ll sell my old ohm and get the new one.
ich wiege 82 kg und meine Freundin 46kg auf 155. wir nutzen auch das ohm 2 und sie hat schon erfolgreich 2-3 3-4m whipper abfangen können ohne komplett in die Luft zu gehen. Top Gerät
Nice education video.. I hv already bought the ohm 2 been using afew times.. works so much better than the previous version .. as I hv own both . good job on climb innovation n refinement edelrid !
Thanks for your feedback!
This definitely sounds like a great improvement! I might try to get my friend to try it out with me when it becomes available in my area. I own an ohm 1 that never gets used because of the high number of false activations with it, but it really does work well when I'm not struggling to have it not lock up on my partner (I've belayed someone with about 55kg/2x my body weight on quite comfortably with an ohm 1)
Perfektes Produkt ! Bravo, Team Edelrid ! Bei uns in Tirol sieht man das Tool sehr oft ! Sympathischste Werbeträgerin kommt ja auch aus Tirol ! V2 kauf Ich demnächst 👏
Please post improved numbers of weight difference of OHM1 too!!
He said it's roughly 10kg less than OHM2 so in theory only 15kg? (and then add the weight difference allowable at your criteria... ie. german alpine club: 10kg)
Finally thank you Edelrid for your innovating products and continued development of them!
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer.
When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then.
Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less).
Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
Seems the new one adresses some issues I had with the first one, but the recommendated weight difference makes me nervous (wife:55 me:95😅) but since it works like the first one we should be fine!
Awesome video. Edelrid is at the forefront of climbing technology. Yet they seem not to have discovered the advanced grooming equipment now available on the market such as the Comb.
If you fall at the first bolt or above after clipping the Ohm... Can you fall in to the OHM 2?
Ohm2 is cool, but can we talk about how cool those pizza leggings are?
Hello Edelrid! I'd like to see a video about the new version of Mega Jul
There is a problem with the Ohm 1 which nobody mentions here and caused us to stop using it.
If the second bolt is not directly above the first, the rope comes out of the Ohm at an angle. This causes the Ohm to improperly activate when clipping and lowering.
The Ohm activated several times while clipping on lead and activated 7 times while lowering on a 20m climb. To get it to deactivate I had to almost get all my weight off the rope.
I'm curious if the Ohm 2 will have the same problem.
Can I ask… what’s the advantage of the new one? I have the old one. I found with the old one I could not clip quickly or I would engage the ohm, and my belayer had plenty of slack. It would be nice to see an ohm that allows for quicker clipping.
I have the same question !
I already have a ohm 1. The swivel is a very nice feature, but it won’t convince me to buy a version 2…
However, if the ohm 2 is better at not engaging when I am trying to clip… then this might convince me to buy a new one, as this is quite annoying when it happens !
With the update of the OHM to the second generation we implemented several improvements:
- Thanks to the updated geometry the risk of false activations is minimized while providing at the same time more friction when activated (watch at 1:16)
- Integrated swivel, thus direction of the device does not play a role anymore (watch at 2:17). Similar to using quick draws, we still recommend to install the carabiner with the gate opposite to the subsequent rope course.
- Improved opening & closing mechanism (watch at 1:39)
💚how is it for rappel(the third hand) ? An adjustment to hold more weight would be good
ZAED is a similar device with adjustable friction
The OHM II is no substitution for a belay device. It is not designed or certified for rappelling.
I thought the Ohm1 had literature saying it could handle differences of 10-40kg. Does the Ohm2 handle 25-55kg differences?
Please watch the video from 03:26 onwards for a thorough explanation into the weight difference compensation.
How much does the new one weigh, and is it similar to Ohm 1?
It weighs 450g, and yes, it is simply an updated version to the OHM. 😊
Does it provide friction when the belayer is under the 1st QuickDraw?
In order to allow the OHM to activate in a lead climbing scenario, the belayer must be positioned in an horizontal distance of 1m from the first quickdraw. Please also refer to our user manual.
Sorry, i will delete my wrong answer to not create more confusion!
I see there is some confusion going around here. I'll take the liberty of trying to explain more clearly what Phil is trying to say.
The idea is that when they launched the OHM 1 they estimated the maximum weight difference differently. The method they used to estimate kilograms was less accurate. They also added an extra 10 kilograms over the Alpine Club's recommendation. As a result, they gained 40 kilograms then. Now they have changed the method of estimating the difference in kilograms and have also decided to remove the extra 10 kilograms. Having estimated OHM 2 in this way, they obtained a maximum difference of 25 kilograms. Then they also estimated OHM 1 in the new way and got 15 kilos maximum difference. And finally, they calculated that OHM 2 can compensate for 10 kilograms more than OHM 1 (25 - 15 = 10).
I hope I have understood things correctly and that I am not causing more confusion. If I'm wrong, I ask Edelrid to correct me.
Which means that if you were climbing with OHM I with let's say a difference of 40kg and it was fine for you you can use OHM II with a difference of 50kg even if it is no more recommended now...
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer.
When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then.
Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less).
Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
Sorry, did i understand correctly that ohm 2 compensates for more KG differnece than ohm 1? In other words, it adds more friction to the system so that even lighter belayer can belay leader of the same weight? Is that what is said at 6:30. Thanks
yes, they said their numbers were wrong on the first one but the new one "adds" 25kg to the belayer which is 10kg more than the previous one.
@@philipp9604 " no, old Ohm compensates for the same weight difference as the new one."
not true.
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer.
When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then.
Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less).
Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 Kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
And... The helmet?? Where is?
You’ve got to he kidding me. I’ve only bought Ohm 1 like 6 months ago so my belayer doesn’t have to clip weight bad to himself 😢
Gutes Video - vielen Dank! Wäre es jedoch möglich, das Video auch noch in Deutscher Sprache nachzureichen?
So würden viele (z.B. DAV`ler) sich vielleicht leichter tun, den Unterschied zwischen der jetzigen 25 Kg-Angabe und der damaligen 40Kg-Angabe zu verstehen.
can you use two ohm on the first two bolts if the weight difference is greater than 25kg? Seems like it could work
god no
The OHM is not designed for the use of two OHM devices within one rope system.
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID!) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer.
When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then.
Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value.
With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less). Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed.
The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference than the OHM I. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. You can therefore expect a smoother handling and a better performance.
That 10kg difference seems extremely overblown. I've belayed people 20kg heavier than me and it was completely fine. You do have to be a competent belayer though, a bad belayer is dangerous, Ohm or no Ohm. Of course, falling from the second quickdraw is always a risky situation, but good belaying can compensate greatly for most risks, including collisions.
I think this video is a really great example of how someone wanted to make things simpler (something something about 25 kg) and made it much more confusing instead.
Interesting how two numbers is too much for some people, that are probably allowed to drive cars :) Take this comment with humor, but I am pretty sure you could have not explained the communication for the old Ohm in your own words in a correct way.
@@JannickTappe I might or might not be bad with numbers, who knows. So with all the humor, please help me: Old Ohm was 40 kg. New Ohm offsets 25 kg and the max weight difference is 10 kg. So 35 kg in total. Did I get this correctly?
6:29
@@drstrangelove85 yes exactly. The ohm makes the belayer 25 kg heavier. Now depending on who you ask or what recommendation you want to follow, you add this number as well. From the German Alpen Club this is 10kg max difference. So with the Ohm that's a total of 35kg weight difference.
@@rotschli Yea. I think the reason for this is just that they didn't want to write: The new Ohm compensates for 5kg less then the old Ohm.
What happens if the weight difference is greater than rated? Will the device be useless? Bought the ohm 1 a couple months ago for a child to belay an adult figuring any help would be better than none. The gym allows us to climb to second bolt with her belaying me (heaviest in group)(she is too young they will not let her certify) so she has been getting experience with a 100 lb difference with no ohm and minimal risk of injury. Looking forward to getting her belaying outside and trying to help be as safe as possible for her.
What do you think will happen? 😂
We as EDELRID can only comment on the pure weight difference compensation when using the OHM. We are not able to assess the individual experience of both climber and belayer or the capability of a child belaying an adult. It is up to the individual climbing parties to decide, if they consider climbing together as safe.
*Regarding the weight difference compensation please also refer to our replies on previous comments:*
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID!) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer.
When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then.
Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value.
With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less). Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed.
The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference than the OHM I. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. You can therefore expect a smoother handling and a better performance.
So just 10 kilos difference? I thought it was 25
10 Max without ohm. 25 max with ohm
@@Konsti8082 35 with ohm (25kg from ohm + 10kg recommended max weight difference)
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer.
When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then.
Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less).
Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
did I understand correctly? safe weight difference is 10kg and at the top of that we have 25kg compensation with ohm2, so 35kg safe weight difference using this device?
correct.
but depending on your belaying skills etc. the safe weight difference could be considered more.
e.g. if you are belaying someone in toprope and know how to belay dynamically...
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer.
When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then.
Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less).
Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 Kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
Yeah but make it cheaper, it's expensive as hell
Even better, hand it out for free!
congrats in making it more complicated trying to make it simpler. I understood its 5kg worse than the old one, yet you telling in the end its 10kg better :>
no, you didn't understand anything.
@@btudrusthx for explaining
@@tiamat87 they changed the method for determining safe wight difference as well.
According to the old method:
- you can use Ohm I with 30+10kg weight fidd
- (theoretically) you can use Ohm II with 40+10kg diff
According to the new method:
- you can use Ohm I with 15+10kg diff
- you can use Ohm II with 25+10kg diff
If for your purpose / sklls the old method was ok, you may go up to 50kg diff...
The German Alpine Club (not EDELRID) recommends a maximum weight difference of 10 kg, above which the climbing party should take additional measures (whatever it is) to make climbing together safer.
When we developed the OHM I, the recommendation of the German Alpine Club was still a maximum weight difference of up to 30% without the need to take additional measures. For the OHM I, we used to communicate an “allowed” weight difference of up to 40 kg, depending on the body weight of the belayer. These 40 kg consisted of the recommendation of the German Alpine Club, as well as testing results from our testing set up back then.
Meanwhile, we realized that we should not talk about an “allowed” weight difference and also should not integrate a recommendation from an Alpine Club, as other institutions might have different guidelines. Therefore, we developed a new testing method that only wants to objectively find out how much weight the OHM II compensates and communicate exactly this value. With this new method, we measured that the OHM II offsets 25 kg. According to this same new testing method the old OHM compensates 15 kg (10 kg less).
Now, anybody using the OHM II takes 25 Kg offset into their consideration, while the climbing party always needs to assess its individual situation and decide whether additional measures are still needed. The OHM II offsets a higher weight difference then the old one. However, the optimized cam geometry also reduces false activations compared to the OHM I. So you can expect a smoother handling and a better performance. 😊
Every lightweight climber should have one of these in their bag. Save your friend's ankles!
Or every overweight one 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Schade. War früher mal ein deutschsprachiges Unternehmen
The Ohm is a blight on climbing. I weigh 93kg (205 lb) and have had lots of people weighing 50 kg give me nice, soft lead catches. The Ohm signs you up for a guaranteed ankle-breaking hard catch and fosters bad technique for both belayer and climber and will limit growth of both in climbing. The alarmist nonsense that is promulgated by Edelrid and Ohm proponents is shameful.