We hope you found this video helpful! Feel free to leave a comment with any additional questions you have, and we'll try our best to answer them. We also encourage you to check out our other PINCH videos: PINCH Basic Functions: ruclips.net/video/T0vVi-0U8jw/видео.html PINCH Multipitch Tutorial: ruclips.net/video/rYgt2xXZchw/видео.html PINCH for Work Safety & Rope Access: ruclips.net/video/B3mq2GMACqs/видео.html
I have a Pinch and love it. I strongly believe it's much harder to open the Pinch by accident than a double action carabiner and I think it might be harder than a triple action even. And the advantages of not having a carabiner are huge. Asside from it being lower which is quite nice, it also behaves better. It doesn't flop around and agressively sag and twist. The Pinch just stays there and slightly tilts up and down. Absolutely love it and let's be clear, everyone who talks about the lack of safety hasn't actually used it. I've never heard someone with experience express any concern.
Love the Pinch, the direct attachment makes all the difference and results in superior handling with no need for holding the device ala „gaswerk“ at any time. Edelrid Design is great, love the shapes + color.
I'm stoked for more innovation in this space and really want to love the pinch but I do miss my GriGri when I use the pinch. It just doesn't feed slack as well because there's not as much real estate for your thumb to press down on the cam. The brake strand also doesn't run through the front groove when lowering because the radius is too small. I also would have loved to see steel on the wear surface on the right flange where the rope runs over the right flange. I'm stoked for the next iteration of this device! I have to go back to my other devices for now though.
Couldn't agree more. Pinch works really nice( both ways) with new, skinny ropes, but old, stiff and fuzzy ones can really get stuck inside. Then, it's significantly harder to overcome it, than when using GriGri.
I recently got a pinch and both me and my climbing buddy love it (we even like the edelrid green), It's a great addition to my climbing kit and along with the gigajul and spoc Ove got pretty much every avenue covered for my climbing, indoor, sport , trad TR solo and lead solo. Very impressed and good value
I bought a Pinch for no good reason other than I thought it was cool. I've used it quite a lot for sport climbing, indoors and outdoors. It's really nice. I like it better than my GriGri. It handles nicer for belaying and when you're not using it it sits better on your gear loop than a grigri.
Great and brave job facing all these questions so honestly and humility. Could be said loudly, but not clearer. I am tired about explaining any belay product on the market is actually "auto", and that instructions are not to fill the empty space in the box. I especially appreciate the detailed information and nuances that differenciate all those products and tests.
Really informative video, thank you. Great presentation style too. Regarding the color scheme, people know exactly what product manufacturer you're using instantly when they see the color, so I get keeping the same color with everything.
I got the Device as a present. I really like it, and I personally think its better than the GriGri not just because of the new function but also because it feels better for me. I saw the Video from Petzl for the NEOX and it actually made me think that the NEOX is more Unsafe. Not in Terms of Normal USE, but in Terms of false usage. When you Accidentally let got the Break side of the Rope, ( for which we have to be real, can happen(but should of course not)) the Neox seems to be catching more unreliably than the PINCH or the GRIGRI. I think i will test this ( with backup) when i get one in my Hands, but for now Petzl made me think that.
On a multi-pitch climb -can I use the pitch to belay the leader off the anchor(fixed point belay)? If yes I'd love a video on this with all the specs/details comparing this to munter and plate direct belay set-ups.
Hi, nice video. I have a question about the "DYNAMIC PERFORMANCE WHEN BELAYING - TYPES 6 AND 8" test. In the video you show the free side of the rope hanging with no attachment. Whereas in the in the PDF the diagram shows the break side attached to a weight. Which is correct? Or more precisely, can you say how much weight in on the break side? If this is just the rope, how many meters of rope is this (i.e. do you just leave 2 meters or do you carry this test out with say 1kg - e.g. c17m of 9.5mm rope hanging below)?
We recommend watching our video "PINCH for Work Safety & Rope Access" here: ruclips.net/video/B3mq2GMACqs/видео.html Additionally, you can check out our website for all technical info and relevant downloads (incl. certifications, user manual, etc.). This should help you! 😃➡ edelrid.com/eu-en/professional/descenders-shop/pinch
Would you consider it safe to "tie in" using a pinch in the following way: Pinch attached to the belay/tie-in loop. Overhand knot on the brake end of the rope with a 10 inch tail. (side note: I already own a set of two Pinch)
Thanks for all that information. I would love a direct comparison of the pinch to your edde. There seems to be very little information on the edde compared to other devices. You mentioned other devices have tried to come up with other designs that work differently to the grigri to not infringe on that patent, when it was in effect, pointing out the edde as an example of one of these. Can you go into more details on that, especially in regard the edde how it works compard to the grigri to achieve this.
Which carabiner are you using as backup carabiner, e.g., at 2:50? I love belaying with the pinch but haven't found the perfect backup carabiner yet. So far I've been using hms and D-shaped locking carabiners (edelrid hms strike screw and petzl sm'd, respectively), however, they twist and turn around sometimes, and also tend to dangle against the pinch; this is not really a problem, but it would be nice to prevent this somehow and have less clutter. I see you're using a very small non-locking carabiner, clipped in so that it is fully inside the belay loop. This is different to how it is described in the manual where it is a locking carabiner, clipped so that it is partially outside the belay loop. Are there any differences regarding safety between these methods, i.e., locking vs non-locking and inside vs partially outside of the belay loop (I know both should be secure, but I'm just wondering whether there's some weird way the carabiners could twist and then open that might cause the pinch to twist and open). Are there any tiny locking carabiners on the market?
The smallest one I have found is the very small DMM - XSRE (available with or without lock), it's only good for 4kn technically so not something you should use for normal climbing. But in this scenario I would say it works well, best I have found at least. Would be interested if someone has a better one. Feels like a round carabiner would be perfect :)
Thanks for your question! There's actually no difference whether you set up the backup carabiner as shown in the video or as in the user manual. Both options work equally well, and you can use either a locking or non-locking carabiner-it’s entirely up to you. You could even use the NINETEEN G carabiner, the smallest in our portfolio. 🙂
I heard and read of an issue with certification for the 12841-c when the first batch of PINCHs were being put to market where it hadn't gotten the certification in time. I read Edelrid respond on one of the comments regarding this on another video that the newer models coming out will have said certification in tandem with all the points stated in the above video. I have been trying to ascertain clarity on this testing method as it's not a certification you would see with conventional belay devices, but rather descender type devices used in rope access. A question I would like to see answered on a video and demonstrated is the use of the device hands free, is this an acceptable method on 10-10.5mm static rope under the certification stipulated for EN 12841-c. Is the device intended to only act as a positioner but not the true life support such as the MegaWatt. This is the main reason I would buy a PINCH over some other belay devices, does it serve my climbing purposes and my rope access purposes, with a rescue limit of 120kg this is likely not to replace the main stay descenders on the market, however as an alternative to the Grillon I wonder is it a versatile alternative. On comparison to the Grillon, is there a potential for the PINCH to undergo the certification process for use in American rope access via the ANSI z359.3
Thanks for your question! The first batch of PINCHes did not make the EN 12841 Type C in time, due to organizational reasons. All later batches have this certification. The PINCH can be used as an EN 12841 Type C device. If by “hands free” you mean sitting in your harness while your hands are not holding the braking rope: yes, you can use the device like this. It is, however, mandatory to control the braking rope and redirect it while descending! Just like the MEGAWATT, the PINCH is a fully certified EN 12841 Type C descender allowing you to fully load it. The PINCH does not have the same user weight range and rope diameter range as the MEGAWATT. In the context of the EN 12841 you must always use a back-up system. Please check the user instructions for both devices (available on our website), and check out our other videos about the PINCH, like this one: ruclips.net/video/B3mq2GMACqs/видео.htmlsi=h0vy-f00nLgukiMW Aaaand by the way! The MEGAWATT is also certified as an EN 15151-1/8 device. So you could also use it for sports climbing and rope access. 😃
@@edelrid thank you so much for the reply, I am on the list awaiting notice for the PINCH to be back in stock and with this comment it has solidified my desire to get one. Looking forward to exploring more of the Edelrid range as each product I have gotten has met my expectations and led to me being an unintended advocate for the company in a number of scenarios, keep up the great work!
Definitely like the pinch more than the grigri for lead. For the thick gym ropes when top roping I still prefer the grigri, it handles the upper rope thicknesses better
This is my experience too. My 9.5 rope glides like butter on lead but my thicker rope (or most gym ropes) engage the cam much more easily. I still love it though! It feels a little more natural sitting lower and I never realized how loud and clunky the grigri/carabiner combo was until I switched.
@@jacobweaver434 Yeah, attaching straight to the harness definitely feels better. Sometimes I used to feel that the grigri got "lost" when belaying due to the extra length with the carabiner
Good video. I have the pinch and like it a lot. The pinch however does have a substantial weakness/point of failure in the design that the grigri doesn’t have. You could load the pinch where the rope comes out outside the metal plate in the back inside the hole that you attach at the belay loop. (I would attach pictures but cannot do in you tube) . This can be done out of pure distraction and it does happen especially on top rope as the rope slips out as you put it on the belay loop. Like that the pinch will still arrest a fall but you won’t be able to lower. And it pays or recover the rope pretty much identically - but it is obviously dangerous and wrong. With the grigri it doesn’t happen because the lower part is closed….when the slides close on the grigri you pretty much know you are good. When I give the pinch to friend that are even very experienced climbers and belay with the grigri, about 50 percent of them makes this set up mistake. The grigri is way more resilient to this and cannot really be fooled.
You can expect more info about this topic from our EDELRID Academy very soon! If you aren't already, feel free to subscribe so that you're informed as soon as the video is posted. 👍
I have a question for the next episode: Why don't we see more devices that have a soft catch by the device with the safety of a locking backup (like the Revo)? Is the problem so hard from an engineering standpoint? Is it a patent issue? Is it the lack of a proper category in the standards that such a device would really fit? Or is it the difficulty in selling this in a world that has now become accustomed to locking devices, where the bulk of climbers has less than a decade of experience and therefore has never learned catching soft through the device? And as an extension on this...will we ever see devices specifically meant to belay children on lead? Top rope is easy, just use anything that locks. But recently, I practiced with a 30kg dummy and giving a soft catch felt really, really hard. Even with the tube I felt like the device adds too much resistance. Introducing a dynamic catch through jumping is kind of sub-ideal...as soon as the fall was arrested, the weight difference was dragging the dummy back up the wall.
💚 why don't you make the Hand Cruiser wider like a carabiner to exclude the carabiner?,I will try the Pinch ,but I don't think I will buy it, I've been using Gri Gri for 10 years
The small pin is so easy to lose. I wish I could store them inside the device. I currently have them attached to the cam with electrical tape. I never know when they might fall off or get lost. I don't use that pin right now, but I still don't want to lose it.
As an old man, my eyesight is not as fabulous as it used to be. Because of this, any gear that I buy has to be bright colors like red, orange, yellow, or pink. A black and green device, for me, would blend too easily into the environment, and get accidently left behind.
@@plucknick depending on your location, we would recommend to *physically* check at your local retail shops, or to simply call one. As for ordering directly via our website, we are working on keeping up with the high demand! Please check back soon. ☺
Auch wenn das alles hier gut dargestellt wurde ist ja das Hauptthema beim sichern, wie erwähnt, wie smooth man das Seil ausgeben kann und da muss man halt einfach sagen das Petzl dort erneut mit dem Neox DAS beste Gerät rausgebracht hat! Seil ausgeben war noch nie so einfach im Rahmen von halbautomatischen Sicherungsgeräten. Das Pinch bietet halt keine gravierende ausschlaggebende Verbesserung welche mich und wahrscheinlich auch viele andere zum kauf überzeugen würde!
Nein, das Hauptthema beim Sicher ist das Halten von Stürzen. Deshalb nutzen wir überhaupt ein Gerät und machen keine Hüft- oder Schultersicherung mehr wie in grauer Vorzeit. Das zweitwichtigste Thema fürs Sportklettern ist die Sicherheit, deshalb sind die Tuber mittlerweile fast vollständig aus den Hallen verschwunden, obwohl sie sehr schön weich sichern (wer nur mit Halbautomaten gelernt kennt, kann sich das gar nicht mehr vorstellen) und sehr komfortabel beim Seilausgeben sind. Und dann erst kommt die Frage nach der Seilausgabe. Und da muss ich sagen löst das Neox einfach das falsche Problem. Seilausgeben ist mit den heute üblichen dünnen Seilen eigentlich kein Problem und die Gaswerk-Methode ist sehr sicher. Hält man mit 3 Fingern das Seil, ist es unmöglich das Grigri geschlossen zu halten
@@foobar9220 ich bin mir ziemlich sicher das du nicht verstanden hast was ich mit meinem Kommentar sagen möchte. Das das wichtigste beim sichern das halten von stürzen und die Sicherheit ist, ist klar. Es geht mir darum was das wichtigste bei der Auswahl der sicherungsgeräte und das damit VERBUNDENE sichern ist und das ist nun mal das seil ausgeben. Zudem stelle ich garnicht in frage ob die Gaswerkmethode sicher ist oder nicht. Dem unterliegt keiner Diskussion. Dennoch verstehe ich nicht inwiefern das Neox das falsche Problem löst. Es gibt ein Falsches Problem??? Das neox macht die seilausgabe vorallem auch mit dickeren Seilen leichter wobei es sich immer noch auf einer sicheren Basis befindet und nicht Abstriche im Punkto Sicherheit macht. Denn wenn man nach dieser Grundlage handelt kann man wie du es erwähnst den tuber verwenden.
Im Gegenteil. Die direkte Gurtanbindung ist eine gravierende Verbesserung und macht den Unterschied. Man muss zu keinem Zeitpunkt das Pinch ala „Gaswerk Methode“ fixieren oder ähnliches. Das Handling mit dem Pinch ist ein Traum und Seil ausgeben selbst mit eher dickeren 9.8 Seilen sehr smooth und angenehm.
@@foobar9220 ich bin mir ziemlich sicher das du nicht verstanden hast was ich mit meinem Kommentar sagen möchte. Das das wichtigste beim sichern das halten von stürzen und die Sicherheit ist, ist klar. Es geht mir darum was das wichtigste bei der Auswahl der sicherungsgeräte und das damit VERBUNDENE sichern ist und das ist nun mal das seil ausgeben. Trotzdem verstehe ich nicht inwiefern das Neox das falsche Problem löst. Es gibt ein Falsches Problem??? Das neox macht die seilausgabe vorallem auch mit dickeren Seilen leichter wobei es sich immer noch auf einer sicheren Basis befindet und nicht Abstriche im Punkto Sicherheit macht. Denn wenn man nach dieser Grundlage handelt kann man wie du es erwähnst den tuber verwenden.
Bought pinch recently while a friend got a neox. As good as pinch is, i would buy Neox now. The ease of giving slack makes it so much easier to use without using the thumb technique that can lead to fatal errors.
Lol..."there are always different tradeoffs, like comfort vs lightness"....yeah, and in this case, you compromised safety 😂 Face it, y'all should've known better. All you needed was a lock on the button, simple as that. "Direct to harness" is the main feature. Without that, why not just keep our Grigri? I think y'all already sunk this one. Sorry, they aren't all winners! Blaming your audience for being critical is never the answer. You can hear the annoyance in your voice. You never change anyone's mind by lecturing them. If they feel its unsafe, thats the way they feel. Their feeling cant be wrong, its a feeling.
Emm wrong, feelings are no facts and are often wrong. It's like with any new tec. When the wiregate was invented it was the same, people did not belive that it's save, because it was just a thin wire. And by the way, pinch work better than the grigri.
I guess the „critical audience“ here is mainly internet trolls, people who never used the device in real life. And you can easily add a backup beaner within the direct belay loop attachment anytime if you want extra lock, extra safety. And still have direct attachment. There you go. It is described in the manual as well. From my standpoint having used the Pinch for half a year now: There is no way you can open this accidentaly.
my partner uses a pinch. The device always goes sideways when he belays and if the rope is thicker than 9,5 it will catch. you need to use the pistol method. The lip helping there is pointless. You have the hand on the device which introduces the risk of pushing the button. belaying from the top, as advertised in some videos, with the various 90 degree turns, when hanging over a rock, is even scarier. Sorry, I'm not buying this nor the device. Also, this video would have benefited from a script. it's painful to hear you try to speak a language you don't comprehend
We hope you found this video helpful! Feel free to leave a comment with any additional questions you have, and we'll try our best to answer them.
We also encourage you to check out our other PINCH videos:
PINCH Basic Functions: ruclips.net/video/T0vVi-0U8jw/видео.html
PINCH Multipitch Tutorial: ruclips.net/video/rYgt2xXZchw/видео.html
PINCH for Work Safety & Rope Access: ruclips.net/video/B3mq2GMACqs/видео.html
Love it, Phil!!!! We can't wait to see more unPHILtered videos!!!!
I have a Pinch and love it. I strongly believe it's much harder to open the Pinch by accident than a double action carabiner and I think it might be harder than a triple action even. And the advantages of not having a carabiner are huge. Asside from it being lower which is quite nice, it also behaves better. It doesn't flop around and agressively sag and twist. The Pinch just stays there and slightly tilts up and down. Absolutely love it and let's be clear, everyone who talks about the lack of safety hasn't actually used it. I've never heard someone with experience express any concern.
Love the Pinch, the direct attachment makes all the difference and results in superior handling with no need for holding the device ala „gaswerk“ at any time.
Edelrid Design is great, love the shapes + color.
Amazing video, amazing job Phil!
Awesome video. In depth and doesn't shy away from the hard questions.
I'm stoked for more innovation in this space and really want to love the pinch but I do miss my GriGri when I use the pinch. It just doesn't feed slack as well because there's not as much real estate for your thumb to press down on the cam. The brake strand also doesn't run through the front groove when lowering because the radius is too small. I also would have loved to see steel on the wear surface on the right flange where the rope runs over the right flange. I'm stoked for the next iteration of this device! I have to go back to my other devices for now though.
Couldn't agree more. Pinch works really nice( both ways) with new, skinny ropes, but old, stiff and fuzzy ones can really get stuck inside. Then, it's significantly harder to overcome it, than when using GriGri.
I recently got a pinch and both me and my climbing buddy love it (we even like the edelrid green), It's a great addition to my climbing kit and along with the gigajul and spoc Ove got pretty much every avenue covered for my climbing, indoor, sport , trad TR solo and lead solo. Very impressed and good value
Absolutely fan of pinch. Edelried did a good job
Thank you! 🙂
I bought a Pinch for no good reason other than I thought it was cool. I've used it quite a lot for sport climbing, indoors and outdoors. It's really nice. I like it better than my GriGri. It handles nicer for belaying and when you're not using it it sits better on your gear loop than a grigri.
Yes, I’ve retired my grigri in favor of the pinch. I love it!
What do you enjoy more about the pinch?
Great and brave job facing all these questions so honestly and humility.
Could be said loudly, but not clearer.
I am tired about explaining any belay product on the market is actually "auto", and that instructions are not to fill the empty space in the box.
I especially appreciate the detailed information and nuances that differenciate all those products and tests.
Sorry, I meant "Any product on the market is NOT authomatic"!
Really informative video, thank you. Great presentation style too. Regarding the color scheme, people know exactly what product manufacturer you're using instantly when they see the color, so I get keeping the same color with everything.
Thanks for your feedback! 🙂💚🖤
I got the Device as a present. I really like it, and I personally think its better than the GriGri not just because of the new function but also because it feels better for me.
I saw the Video from Petzl for the NEOX and it actually made me think that the NEOX is more Unsafe. Not in Terms of Normal USE, but in Terms of false usage. When you Accidentally let got the Break side of the Rope, ( for which we have to be real, can happen(but should of course not)) the Neox seems to be catching more unreliably than the PINCH or the GRIGRI. I think i will test this ( with backup) when i get one in my Hands, but for now Petzl made me think that.
Keep the green😊
On a multi-pitch climb -can I use the pitch to belay the leader off the anchor(fixed point belay)? If yes I'd love a video on this with all the specs/details comparing this to munter and plate direct belay set-ups.
Great question! Please refer to our PINCH multipitch tutorial video here: ruclips.net/video/rYgt2xXZchw/видео.htmlsi=3VjmeyO81NbYa53D
Hi, nice video. I have a question about the "DYNAMIC PERFORMANCE WHEN BELAYING - TYPES 6 AND 8" test. In the video you show the free side of the rope hanging with no attachment. Whereas in the in the PDF the diagram shows the break side attached to a weight. Which is correct? Or more precisely, can you say how much weight in on the break side? If this is just the rope, how many meters of rope is this (i.e. do you just leave 2 meters or do you carry this test out with say 1kg - e.g. c17m of 9.5mm rope hanging below)?
I’m curious about the ways it’s rated for industrial use, what additional friction requirements should be met, etc.
We recommend watching our video "PINCH for Work Safety & Rope Access" here: ruclips.net/video/B3mq2GMACqs/видео.html
Additionally, you can check out our website for all technical info and relevant downloads (incl. certifications, user manual, etc.). This should help you! 😃➡ edelrid.com/eu-en/professional/descenders-shop/pinch
Oh neat! Hadn’t noticed this! Thanks much!
Would you consider it safe to "tie in" using a pinch in the following way: Pinch attached to the belay/tie-in loop. Overhand knot on the brake end of the rope with a 10 inch tail. (side note: I already own a set of two Pinch)
Thanks for all that information.
I would love a direct comparison of the pinch to your edde. There seems to be very little information on the edde compared to other devices.
You mentioned other devices have tried to come up with other designs that work differently to the grigri to not infringe on that patent, when it was in effect, pointing out the edde as an example of one of these. Can you go into more details on that, especially in regard the edde how it works compard to the grigri to achieve this.
Which carabiner are you using as backup carabiner, e.g., at 2:50? I love belaying with the pinch but haven't found the perfect backup carabiner yet. So far I've been using hms and D-shaped locking carabiners (edelrid hms strike screw and petzl sm'd, respectively), however, they twist and turn around sometimes, and also tend to dangle against the pinch; this is not really a problem, but it would be nice to prevent this somehow and have less clutter. I see you're using a very small non-locking carabiner, clipped in so that it is fully inside the belay loop. This is different to how it is described in the manual where it is a locking carabiner, clipped so that it is partially outside the belay loop. Are there any differences regarding safety between these methods, i.e., locking vs non-locking and inside vs partially outside of the belay loop (I know both should be secure, but I'm just wondering whether there's some weird way the carabiners could twist and then open that might cause the pinch to twist and open). Are there any tiny locking carabiners on the market?
The smallest one I have found is the very small DMM - XSRE (available with or without lock), it's only good for 4kn technically so not something you should use for normal climbing. But in this scenario I would say it works well, best I have found at least. Would be interested if someone has a better one. Feels like a round carabiner would be perfect :)
Thanks for your question! There's actually no difference whether you set up the backup carabiner as shown in the video or as in the user manual. Both options work equally well, and you can use either a locking or non-locking carabiner-it’s entirely up to you.
You could even use the NINETEEN G carabiner, the smallest in our portfolio. 🙂
I heard and read of an issue with certification for the 12841-c when the first batch of PINCHs were being put to market where it hadn't gotten the certification in time. I read Edelrid respond on one of the comments regarding this on another video that the newer models coming out will have said certification in tandem with all the points stated in the above video. I have been trying to ascertain clarity on this testing method as it's not a certification you would see with conventional belay devices, but rather descender type devices used in rope access. A question I would like to see answered on a video and demonstrated is the use of the device hands free, is this an acceptable method on 10-10.5mm static rope under the certification stipulated for EN 12841-c.
Is the device intended to only act as a positioner but not the true life support such as the MegaWatt. This is the main reason I would buy a PINCH over some other belay devices, does it serve my climbing purposes and my rope access purposes, with a rescue limit of 120kg this is likely not to replace the main stay descenders on the market, however as an alternative to the Grillon I wonder is it a versatile alternative. On comparison to the Grillon, is there a potential for the PINCH to undergo the certification process for use in American rope access via the ANSI z359.3
Thanks for your question! The first batch of PINCHes did not make the EN 12841 Type C in time, due to organizational reasons. All later batches have this certification.
The PINCH can be used as an EN 12841 Type C device. If by “hands free” you mean sitting in your harness while your hands are not holding the braking rope: yes, you can use the device like this. It is, however, mandatory to control the braking rope and redirect it while descending!
Just like the MEGAWATT, the PINCH is a fully certified EN 12841 Type C descender allowing you to fully load it. The PINCH does not have the same user weight range and rope diameter range as the MEGAWATT. In the context of the EN 12841 you must always use a back-up system. Please check the user instructions for both devices (available on our website), and check out our other videos about the PINCH, like this one: ruclips.net/video/B3mq2GMACqs/видео.htmlsi=h0vy-f00nLgukiMW
Aaaand by the way! The MEGAWATT is also certified as an EN 15151-1/8 device. So you could also use it for sports climbing and rope access. 😃
@@edelrid thank you so much for the reply, I am on the list awaiting notice for the PINCH to be back in stock and with this comment it has solidified my desire to get one. Looking forward to exploring more of the Edelrid range as each product I have gotten has met my expectations and led to me being an unintended advocate for the company in a number of scenarios, keep up the great work!
Definitely like the pinch more than the grigri for lead. For the thick gym ropes when top roping I still prefer the grigri, it handles the upper rope thicknesses better
This is my experience too. My 9.5 rope glides like butter on lead but my thicker rope (or most gym ropes) engage the cam much more easily. I still love it though! It feels a little more natural sitting lower and I never realized how loud and clunky the grigri/carabiner combo was until I switched.
@@jacobweaver434 Yeah, attaching straight to the harness definitely feels better. Sometimes I used to feel that the grigri got "lost" when belaying due to the extra length with the carabiner
Good video. I have the pinch and like it a lot. The pinch however does have a substantial weakness/point of failure in the design that the grigri doesn’t have. You could load the pinch where the rope comes out outside the metal plate in the back inside the hole that you attach at the belay loop. (I would attach pictures but cannot do in you tube) . This can be done out of pure distraction and it does happen especially on top rope as the rope slips out as you put it on the belay loop. Like that the pinch will still arrest a fall but you won’t be able to lower. And it pays or recover the rope pretty much identically - but it is obviously dangerous and wrong. With the grigri it doesn’t happen because the lower part is closed….when the slides close on the grigri you pretty much know you are good. When I give the pinch to friend that are even very experienced climbers and belay with the grigri, about 50 percent of them makes this set up mistake. The grigri is way more resilient to this and cannot really be fooled.
Are there any updates on the use for (Lead) Rope Solo?
You can expect more info about this topic from our EDELRID Academy very soon! If you aren't already, feel free to subscribe so that you're informed as soon as the video is posted. 👍
I have a question for the next episode:
Why don't we see more devices that have a soft catch by the device with the safety of a locking backup (like the Revo)? Is the problem so hard from an engineering standpoint? Is it a patent issue? Is it the lack of a proper category in the standards that such a device would really fit? Or is it the difficulty in selling this in a world that has now become accustomed to locking devices, where the bulk of climbers has less than a decade of experience and therefore has never learned catching soft through the device?
And as an extension on this...will we ever see devices specifically meant to belay children on lead? Top rope is easy, just use anything that locks. But recently, I practiced with a 30kg dummy and giving a soft catch felt really, really hard. Even with the tube I felt like the device adds too much resistance. Introducing a dynamic catch through jumping is kind of sub-ideal...as soon as the fall was arrested, the weight difference was dragging the dummy back up the wall.
People see the revo as less safe, I think we are used to locking devices.
💚 why don't you make the Hand Cruiser wider like a carabiner to exclude the carabiner?,I will try the Pinch ,but I don't think I will buy it, I've been using Gri Gri for 10 years
The small pin is so easy to lose. I wish I could store them inside the device. I currently have them attached to the cam with electrical tape. I never know when they might fall off or get lost. I don't use that pin right now, but I still don't want to lose it.
As an old man, my eyesight is not as fabulous as it used to be. Because of this, any gear that I buy has to be bright colors like red, orange, yellow, or pink. A black and green device, for me, would blend too easily into the environment, and get accidently left behind.
When will it be back in stock?
Have a look at your local retailers! There you should be able to find one. 😉
@@edelrid "Unfortunately, we couldn't find a Edelrid retailer near you (within a radius of 100km)"
@@plucknick depending on your location, we would recommend to *physically* check at your local retail shops, or to simply call one.
As for ordering directly via our website, we are working on keeping up with the high demand! Please check back soon. ☺
Are turtles working in factories? Production is not keeping up with demand. All shops are out of stock or only accepting pre-orders.
🐢💚😉
Auch wenn das alles hier gut dargestellt wurde ist ja das Hauptthema beim sichern, wie erwähnt, wie smooth man das Seil ausgeben kann und da muss man halt einfach sagen das Petzl dort erneut mit dem Neox DAS beste Gerät rausgebracht hat! Seil ausgeben war noch nie so einfach im Rahmen von halbautomatischen Sicherungsgeräten. Das Pinch bietet halt keine gravierende ausschlaggebende Verbesserung welche mich und wahrscheinlich auch viele andere zum kauf überzeugen würde!
Nein, das Hauptthema beim Sicher ist das Halten von Stürzen. Deshalb nutzen wir überhaupt ein Gerät und machen keine Hüft- oder Schultersicherung mehr wie in grauer Vorzeit. Das zweitwichtigste Thema fürs Sportklettern ist die Sicherheit, deshalb sind die Tuber mittlerweile fast vollständig aus den Hallen verschwunden, obwohl sie sehr schön weich sichern (wer nur mit Halbautomaten gelernt kennt, kann sich das gar nicht mehr vorstellen) und sehr komfortabel beim Seilausgeben sind. Und dann erst kommt die Frage nach der Seilausgabe.
Und da muss ich sagen löst das Neox einfach das falsche Problem. Seilausgeben ist mit den heute üblichen dünnen Seilen eigentlich kein Problem und die Gaswerk-Methode ist sehr sicher. Hält man mit 3 Fingern das Seil, ist es unmöglich das Grigri geschlossen zu halten
@@foobar9220 ich bin mir ziemlich sicher das du nicht verstanden hast was ich mit meinem Kommentar sagen möchte. Das das wichtigste beim sichern das halten von stürzen und die Sicherheit ist, ist klar. Es geht mir darum was das wichtigste bei der Auswahl der sicherungsgeräte und das damit VERBUNDENE sichern ist und das ist nun mal das seil ausgeben.
Zudem stelle ich garnicht in frage ob die Gaswerkmethode sicher ist oder nicht. Dem unterliegt keiner Diskussion.
Dennoch verstehe ich nicht inwiefern das Neox das falsche Problem löst. Es gibt ein Falsches Problem???
Das neox macht die seilausgabe vorallem auch mit dickeren Seilen leichter wobei es sich immer noch auf einer sicheren Basis befindet und nicht Abstriche im Punkto Sicherheit macht. Denn wenn man nach dieser Grundlage handelt kann man wie du es erwähnst den tuber verwenden.
Im Gegenteil. Die direkte Gurtanbindung ist eine gravierende Verbesserung und macht den Unterschied. Man muss zu keinem Zeitpunkt das Pinch ala „Gaswerk Methode“ fixieren oder ähnliches. Das Handling mit dem Pinch ist ein Traum und Seil ausgeben selbst mit eher dickeren 9.8 Seilen sehr smooth und angenehm.
@@foobar9220 ich bin mir ziemlich sicher das du nicht verstanden hast was ich mit meinem Kommentar sagen möchte. Das das wichtigste beim sichern das halten von stürzen und die Sicherheit ist, ist klar. Es geht mir darum was das wichtigste bei der Auswahl der sicherungsgeräte und das damit VERBUNDENE sichern ist und das ist nun mal das seil ausgeben.
Trotzdem verstehe ich nicht inwiefern das Neox das falsche Problem löst. Es gibt ein Falsches Problem???
Das neox macht die seilausgabe vorallem auch mit dickeren Seilen leichter wobei es sich immer noch auf einer sicheren Basis befindet und nicht Abstriche im Punkto Sicherheit macht. Denn wenn man nach dieser Grundlage handelt kann man wie du es erwähnst den tuber verwenden.
Any timeline on availability?
Bought pinch recently while a friend got a neox. As good as pinch is, i would buy Neox now. The ease of giving slack makes it so much easier to use without using the thumb technique that can lead to fatal errors.
does this guy ever blink??? seriously
Nice redundancy at 19:00 💀
Lol..."there are always different tradeoffs, like comfort vs lightness"....yeah, and in this case, you compromised safety 😂
Face it, y'all should've known better. All you needed was a lock on the button, simple as that. "Direct to harness" is the main feature. Without that, why not just keep our Grigri? I think y'all already sunk this one. Sorry, they aren't all winners! Blaming your audience for being critical is never the answer. You can hear the annoyance in your voice. You never change anyone's mind by lecturing them. If they feel its unsafe, thats the way they feel. Their feeling cant be wrong, its a feeling.
I guess you are a certified ppe expert that allows you to make such claims?
Emm wrong, feelings are no facts and are often wrong. It's like with any new tec. When the wiregate was invented it was the same, people did not belive that it's save, because it was just a thin wire. And by the way, pinch work better than the grigri.
I guess the „critical audience“ here is mainly internet trolls, people who never used the device in real life.
And you can easily add a backup beaner within the direct belay loop attachment anytime if you want extra lock, extra safety. And still have direct attachment. There you go. It is described in the manual as well.
From my standpoint having used the Pinch for half a year now: There is no way you can open this accidentaly.
my partner uses a pinch. The device always goes sideways when he belays and if the rope is thicker than 9,5 it will catch. you need to use the pistol method. The lip helping there is pointless. You have the hand on the device which introduces the risk of pushing the button. belaying from the top, as advertised in some videos, with the various 90 degree turns, when hanging over a rock, is even scarier. Sorry, I'm not buying this nor the device.
Also, this video would have benefited from a script. it's painful to hear you try to speak a language you don't comprehend
Don’t be rude his English is great, he speaks English not because it’s the only language he knows, but it’s the only language YOU understand