@@charlieg4113 oh no I’m so bad with pronouncing certain words. This revelation is quite embarrassing. Thanks for letting me know, now I’m thinking about going back back to re-dubbed this whole thing LOL
Very well done concise review. There is one Euro guy who reviewed the Neox and made a big deal of how it made clicking noises when pulling slack (under a bit of a load?) I struggle with how to pronounce Edelrid given the number of ways an E can be sounded out in English out but this guy pronounces it more like Elder-rid ..... pretty sure that is not it.
@@LeftCoast_TomP I noted the clicking sound in my review of the Neox too… it happens if you are not actively pulling slack on the load side as well. Not a big deal IMO but it is noticeable. I think I mispronounced this because I’m also a fan of the Elder Scrolls. Thanks for the comment, I tried to be comprehensive and unbiased in this is comparison!
I suspect-can't say for sure, haven't even seen a Pinch IRL, let alone used one-that there's nothing particular to the Pinch that makes it okay to use for lead belay direct off the anchor (FPLB) compared to a Grigri or other ABD. The traditional wisdom has been not to use ABDs off a fixed point for lead belaying because they give a harder catch than a Munter, which will translate to higher force on the anchor. The thing that feels plausible to me is that, yes, of course an ABD is going to transmit more force to the anchor, but that what Edelrid is saying is that on unquestionably strong bolts, those higher forces are unconcerning with regard to the anchor, and that a hard catch is better than no catch with regard to the falling climber. In other words, if the Pinch is okay for FPLB, I think the same must be true for a grigri. What do you think? I've got a Neox and I'm pretty lukewarm on it so far. I think the thing it's good at-lead belay on a single pitch or in the gym-it is VERY good at. I love it in that use case. But the truth is, to my climber, I'm totally adept at giving a good belay with a grigri so it makes no difference to them. And I dislike the tendency of the neox to backfeed when toproping or belaying a second off the anchor. The grigri is lighter and, IMO, more versatile and while the experience of giving that super smooth lead belay is wonderful, I'm just not convinced I want to bother with a device that's so niche. I also don't necessarily trust that a neox would catch in that magic hypothetical scenario where I get incapacitated by rockfall, or a heart attack or whatever. A grigri just gives me the warm fuzzies more. I follow you on Insta too-I really appreciate your content and con tributions to the community. Thank you!
Informative video, thanks. The mispronunciation of "Edelrid" hurt every time, but the content made up for it 😅
@@charlieg4113 oh no I’m so bad with pronouncing certain words. This revelation is quite embarrassing. Thanks for letting me know, now I’m thinking about going back back to re-dubbed this whole thing LOL
Very well done concise review. There is one Euro guy who reviewed the Neox and made a big deal of how it made clicking noises when pulling slack (under a bit of a load?) I struggle with how to pronounce Edelrid given the number of ways an E can be sounded out in English out but this guy pronounces it more like Elder-rid ..... pretty sure that is not it.
@@LeftCoast_TomP I noted the clicking sound in my review of the Neox too… it happens if you are not actively pulling slack on the load side as well. Not a big deal IMO but it is noticeable. I think I mispronounced this because I’m also a fan of the Elder Scrolls. Thanks for the comment, I tried to be comprehensive and unbiased in this is comparison!
I suspect-can't say for sure, haven't even seen a Pinch IRL, let alone used one-that there's nothing particular to the Pinch that makes it okay to use for lead belay direct off the anchor (FPLB) compared to a Grigri or other ABD. The traditional wisdom has been not to use ABDs off a fixed point for lead belaying because they give a harder catch than a Munter, which will translate to higher force on the anchor.
The thing that feels plausible to me is that, yes, of course an ABD is going to transmit more force to the anchor, but that what Edelrid is saying is that on unquestionably strong bolts, those higher forces are unconcerning with regard to the anchor, and that a hard catch is better than no catch with regard to the falling climber. In other words, if the Pinch is okay for FPLB, I think the same must be true for a grigri. What do you think?
I've got a Neox and I'm pretty lukewarm on it so far. I think the thing it's good at-lead belay on a single pitch or in the gym-it is VERY good at. I love it in that use case. But the truth is, to my climber, I'm totally adept at giving a good belay with a grigri so it makes no difference to them. And I dislike the tendency of the neox to backfeed when toproping or belaying a second off the anchor. The grigri is lighter and, IMO, more versatile and while the experience of giving that super smooth lead belay is wonderful, I'm just not convinced I want to bother with a device that's so niche. I also don't necessarily trust that a neox would catch in that magic hypothetical scenario where I get incapacitated by rockfall, or a heart attack or whatever. A grigri just gives me the warm fuzzies more.
I follow you on Insta too-I really appreciate your content and con tributions to the community. Thank you!