I would like to add, that if you want to add the carabiner in the third way of attachment 2:11 the carabiner has to pass through both plates of the pinch, but also through the belay loop. This is what they show in instructional manual
Great Job. Elderid finally started shipping the Pinch to the US. Just got mine and the NEOX too. I enjoy them both. I love the versatility of the pinch because it can be used both indoor and outdoor especially on multi-pinch climbing. In the gym and on single pitch sport climbing I love clipping the pinch directly to the belay loop to give that extra amount of rope when lead belaying. I have noticed that belaying rope sizes closer to 9.8mm to 10mm with the pinch are not as smooth as using the NEOX.
I am a coach in Germany and we tried it for lefties. So much better then the grigri! U just rest your thumb on the joint of the lever and press down a little
Sry do you mind elaborating on that? I'm a leftie myself but never really ran into issues with the Grigri other than having to mentally readjust when swapping from reverso like devices mid-session
It’s about not putting down roots and just having an adventure instead. It’s like “nothing tastes as good as skinny feels” but for dirtbags and vanlifers.
Been using the pinch for nearly 2 weeks as a lefty. Have had no issues at all with feeding slack on lead. Feed is smooth and I like the bigger handle for the index finger while by thumb is on the cam.
2:50 I mean, this is frankly fine belay technique, but amazed you all would use this for promotional materials. This is a loose hold on the brake strand at best, and again fine, but I probably would have redone for the close ups.
This seemed very biased. At no point did you list any potential negatives about the device. All belay devices have tradeoffs, so it's important to understand them fully
Not to throw any hate towards EpicTV, but even if this is not sponsored they are still a shop (and did receive the device free for review) which needs to have good relations with manufacturers. They basically do not criticize anything except when the equipment is not meant to do a thing or when decisions are merely labeled by preference (quickdraw comparisons, for instance). Not a disagreement, nor dismissing the bias, merely mentioning they are selling you a product, always.
After using Pinch for two months I must say I find the it much less likeable than the reviewers (including EPIC TV) would suggest. It is really hard to find the sweet spot when lowering if you want to make it quick. When anti panic mode is disabled, the maximum available angle lever is very low, so you end up being forced to push with your hand really hard down instead of pulling towards you (as with the GriGri). When anti panic is enabled, the lever angle is ok, but you need to press all the way through anyway to get the decent speed, which again gets your hand in quite uncomfortable position (I would usually use my thumb instead od four fingers). Rope positioning when lowering is also at least tricky if you want to guide the rope through the steel insert in the front of the device. It's practically impossible for thicker ropes and usually hard for more skinny cords without a glove. The same applies to feeding slack. Thicker/older ropes are significantly harder to handle. Grigri seems to be generally smoother and less sophisticated in most scenarios. Pinch would probably feel best with new, smooth ropes of diameters up to 9.2.
If i use a carabineer in either normal or top belay situations, doesnt that mess up the metal of the Pinch and thus shouldnt be used without a carabiner/directly attached to the belay loop anymore as it can damage the textile?
If you have attached this to your belay loop, what's the plan for escaping the belay for rescue if required.. seeing as you need to open the device to detach it? I can't believe this hasn't been covered
Great question. You absolutely can. I've tested this with the device. You have to slide your belay loop into the correct position when it is under force in order for it to release. It is possible, even under heavy load, but it certainly requires focus and dexterity and manually forcing the belay loop to allow the device to release.
I'm left handed, belaying (and using all things in general that are asymmetrical, like scissors) the other way is usually not comfortable. With gri gri the rope naturally goes to the side (and I don't expect pinch to be very different here) so I'm concerned sometimes if rope either damage the handle under tension or pull it in some unlucky situation. Apart from that belaying is generally possible. When lowering - handle is on the left and it's a big no no to pull it with right hand. I'm belaying like everyone else my whole life, it's not a problem for me, but if someone can't do that then pinch probably won't be much better than grigri
Does it really save you a carabiner? You still have to clip it to a gear loop when you're not belaying. Cool device, but the direct belay loop attachment feels like a solution to a problem nobody had.
If you accidentally grab the live rope to the leader what kind of pressure (kilo age) makes the rope run free. That has always been my criticism of the Grigri.
Call me nuts, but if someone tried to belay me without a locking biner on their belay device,I I’d give them one of mine. I get the benefit but for gyms and single pitch situations I can’t see how that extra biner is a big deal. Maybe when the pinch 2.0 comes out with a double locking function I’ll bite
Having a small nonlocker is fine as many people belay using two stage carabiners and this basically makes two independent stages to unlock the system. I would definitely not belay nor be belayed sans the carabiner, having tried out and been able to successfully unlock the device several times while belaying (with a top rope backup in a gym with the intent to kind of fiddle and try to) I find this odd for Edelrid to grasp onto for manufacturer guidelines on use being just attached direct but no carabiner. It's like Petzl having had a specific way to belay with a GriGri, and if you want you can clearly belay other ways but gyms especially have an easier time saying "manufacturer guidelines for insurance purposes".
Up to now, I haven’t seen a single pinch anywhere. But the Neox . My idea is m, that you made this video because you have a lot of this Edelrid gear in stock and nobody wants it 😀😎
That's cause the Pinch just started shipping. They haven't been able to keep up with demand, so most retailers have only gotten a small initial shipment, with additional small shipments trickling in over the next several months.
I would like to add, that if you want to add the carabiner in the third way of attachment 2:11 the carabiner has to pass through both plates of the pinch, but also through the belay loop. This is what they show in instructional manual
Great Job. Elderid finally started shipping the Pinch to the US. Just got mine and the NEOX too. I enjoy them both. I love the versatility of the pinch because it can be used both indoor and outdoor especially on multi-pinch climbing. In the gym and on single pitch sport climbing I love clipping the pinch directly to the belay loop to give that extra amount of rope when lead belaying. I have noticed that belaying rope sizes closer to 9.8mm to 10mm with the pinch are not as smooth as using the NEOX.
Agreed on everything you said, this is so much better than the grigri and neox. Both of those will stay on the gear wall at home.
I am a coach in Germany and we tried it for lefties.
So much better then the grigri!
U just rest your thumb on the joint of the lever and press down a little
Sry do you mind elaborating on that? I'm left handed myself but never really ran into issues with the Grigri.
Sry do you mind elaborating on that? I'm a leftie myself but never really ran into issues with the Grigri other than having to mentally readjust when swapping from reverso like devices mid-session
Why shouldn't I buy a couch? What if I already have one? What's wrong with a couch?
It’s about not putting down roots and just having an adventure instead. It’s like “nothing tastes as good as skinny feels” but for dirtbags and vanlifers.
If you feel comfortable at home you are less likely to fetishize outdoor gear.
The second part of the sentence is cut off. It supposed to be "Don't buy a couch... From JD Vance"
It's a sticker made by a couple living on a sailboat. Meaning: If you want to cruise the world, don't buy a couch.
Been using the pinch for nearly 2 weeks as a lefty. Have had no issues at all with feeding slack on lead. Feed is smooth and I like the bigger handle for the index finger while by thumb is on the cam.
Did you say it has an RFID chip in it? What's that for?
To track down people who don't hold the brake strand
To make sure you only climb with an edelrid compatible RFID-tagged rope
@@cern1999sb Not an authorized rope?? Cam blocks.
Inspection admin for rope access
2:50 I mean, this is frankly fine belay technique, but amazed you all would use this for promotional materials. This is a loose hold on the brake strand at best, and again fine, but I probably would have redone for the close ups.
This seemed very biased. At no point did you list any potential negatives about the device. All belay devices have tradeoffs, so it's important to understand them fully
Not to throw any hate towards EpicTV, but even if this is not sponsored they are still a shop (and did receive the device free for review) which needs to have good relations with manufacturers. They basically do not criticize anything except when the equipment is not meant to do a thing or when decisions are merely labeled by preference (quickdraw comparisons, for instance).
Not a disagreement, nor dismissing the bias, merely mentioning they are selling you a product, always.
After using Pinch for two months I must say I find the it much less likeable than the reviewers (including EPIC TV) would suggest. It is really hard to find the sweet spot when lowering if you want to make it quick. When anti panic mode is disabled, the maximum available angle lever is very low, so you end up being forced to push with your hand really hard down instead of pulling towards you (as with the GriGri). When anti panic is enabled, the lever angle is ok, but you need to press all the way through anyway to get the decent speed, which again gets your hand in quite uncomfortable position (I would usually use my thumb instead od four fingers). Rope positioning when lowering is also at least tricky if you want to guide the rope through the steel insert in the front of the device. It's practically impossible for thicker ropes and usually hard for more skinny cords without a glove. The same applies to feeding slack. Thicker/older ropes are significantly harder to handle. Grigri seems to be generally smoother and less sophisticated in most scenarios. Pinch would probably feel best with new, smooth ropes of diameters up to 9.2.
That intro was 🔥
I love the Pinch! Nice Device.
0:58 what is the RFID chip for?
for keeping inventory of our gear
its more typical in industrial settungs so far but when you have multipal once it may help
If i use a carabineer in either normal or top belay situations, doesnt that mess up the metal of the Pinch and thus shouldnt be used without a carabiner/directly attached to the belay loop anymore as it can damage the textile?
If you have attached this to your belay loop, what's the plan for escaping the belay for rescue if required.. seeing as you need to open the device to detach it?
I can't believe this hasn't been covered
Great question. You absolutely can. I've tested this with the device. You have to slide your belay loop into the correct position when it is under force in order for it to release. It is possible, even under heavy load, but it certainly requires focus and dexterity and manually forcing the belay loop to allow the device to release.
I'm left handed, belaying (and using all things in general that are asymmetrical, like scissors) the other way is usually not comfortable. With gri gri the rope naturally goes to the side (and I don't expect pinch to be very different here) so I'm concerned sometimes if rope either damage the handle under tension or pull it in some unlucky situation. Apart from that belaying is generally possible. When lowering - handle is on the left and it's a big no no to pull it with right hand. I'm belaying like everyone else my whole life, it's not a problem for me, but if someone can't do that then pinch probably won't be much better than grigri
I have it and i love it
Does it really save you a carabiner? You still have to clip it to a gear loop when you're not belaying. Cool device, but the direct belay loop attachment feels like a solution to a problem nobody had.
You can attach it to your gear loop without a biner. But yea I hear you. I guess it’s just one less locker you have to carry.
i guess for beginners, they dont have to worry about buying extra gear or have a carabiner cross load while belaying
oh shit, they added my method as a way to use it, in case belayer doesn’t trust it clipping to harness directly, wow ❤️❤️
If you accidentally grab the live rope to the leader what kind of pressure (kilo age) makes the rope run free. That has always been my criticism of the Grigri.
Get better at belaying maybe?
Did you choose a winner for the Black Diamond giveaway you did in Innsbruck? I did not se any announcements
Tried it and I still prefer a grigri. It doesn't belay any better and it doesn't fit around a thick belay loop.
I guess the Beal birdie isn't hip anymore 😭
Hi do you know when it's going to be available in the shop? Seems like its 'out of stock' in every climbing shop.
Hey we should have more coming end of September / October 🙌
Call me nuts, but if someone tried to belay me without a locking biner on their belay device,I I’d give them one of mine. I get the benefit but for gyms and single pitch situations I can’t see how that extra biner is a big deal.
Maybe when the pinch 2.0 comes out with a double locking function I’ll bite
Definitely. As if we forgot why the carabiner was there in the first place
Having a small nonlocker is fine as many people belay using two stage carabiners and this basically makes two independent stages to unlock the system. I would definitely not belay nor be belayed sans the carabiner, having tried out and been able to successfully unlock the device several times while belaying (with a top rope backup in a gym with the intent to kind of fiddle and try to) I find this odd for Edelrid to grasp onto for manufacturer guidelines on use being just attached direct but no carabiner. It's like Petzl having had a specific way to belay with a GriGri, and if you want you can clearly belay other ways but gyms especially have an easier time saying "manufacturer guidelines for insurance purposes".
@@paulgaras2606 another thing is that the pinch only fits well on very thin belay loops.
dang, just bought a Neox
I don’t feel safe to use the pinch directly on the harness.
Best device belay ever
I just watched this video because of her
Forget about the pinch, why should i not buy a couch?
the rope doesn't run through the couch very smoothly. Havend tried the pinch yet, but i think it will be bettern the the couch in any case
@@makoko6812 I don't know man it seems to provide a soft landing.
@@MusclesfromB yo got a point there! It surely gives a soft catch, so im convinced. Im team couch now too
Woo! First! Do people still do that?
hell yeah they do!🤘
4:23 SINFUL
Useless 🤡🤡🤡🤡
Up to now, I haven’t seen a single pinch anywhere.
But the Neox .
My idea is m, that you made this video because you have a lot of this Edelrid gear in stock and nobody wants it 😀😎
Actually quite the opposite, we can’t get enough to sell…
That's cause the Pinch just started shipping. They haven't been able to keep up with demand, so most retailers have only gotten a small initial shipment, with additional small shipments trickling in over the next several months.
Interesting new features... Really curios what HardIsEasy would find. Taking falls for science :)
Smooth piece of something…Im rock hard.
I mean I have an erection from eating this video.