I appreciate that while not sponsored by edelrid, you show the pros and cons of the alternatives. Similarly, I appreciate showing the pros and cons of modifying the connect adjust with alternative cords. We can all read the official statements and instructions from Petzl and then choose our own adventure, but it is nice to see a sponsored person from Petzl not "just" towing the company line. Well done on finding a good balance between the two!
If you have to unload the system frequently to adjust the length, I find it more easy to attach the Adjust the other way around. Clip the device to your harness with the carabiner and use a second carabiner in the big loop to attach to the anchorpoint. To unload the system pull yourself up using the second carabiner or the big loop as a handle. With your other hand you can give more slack in the system at the device near your harness. Greetings from Belgium and much appreciation for the in depth explanation.
Thank you for this helpful video. Your tip about the slipknot is super useful. Anyone who doesn't have a Connect Adjust yet and is thinking of buying one might want to wait a bit. I found some pictures of an updated version that has not yet been released by Petzl, but will probably be on the market in 2024. The new model has a Dyneema loop for attaching to the belay loop and a small eyelet through which you can thread a small thread.
@thekaydonsouth what’s the forces involved to cut a belay loop with dynemma? Enough to break your back or give you serious internal injuries I would bet. Not the sub 1kn you would normally be putting into your rappel setup.
I use a Beal Espresso (built rapp extension is great). The drawback of it is there is no length adjust however I have added this simply with a prusik (still attaching the espresso end to the carb). This also gives the advantage of having a second prusik on you for any rope climbing. It isn't as long as the petzl but that has its positives and negatives.
for storing I extend the sling, clip it to the second gear loop and shove the remaining slack under the leg loop. easy, fully extended, neatly stored... as for the carabiner, I have the feeling I want the safest connection for myself... hence I always have used a ball lock, which worked fine. recently I have switched from Am'D to an ovalo, as this one is smaller and feels easier to operate. for rappelling I use a 40 cm edelrid aramid sling and clove hitch the carabiner. find it perfect in length and also useful for threading whilst climbing.
Perfectly structured video! A couple of months ago I saw your setup and since I've been also using my adjust with Sm'd Twist Lock, so much easier than a screw gate I had before. Ever since Petzl Connect Adjust came out, it has been my favourite piece of climbing gear. I couldn't recommend it more highly! When I keep it on the harness, I have found the partially extended version going behind draws and cams the best for me. In probably 4 years since I had it, I never encountered issue of that setup being too short. Altough I use it a lot on multipitches (sport and trad), I have found it extremely useful for single pitch sport climbing too, especially when projecting - clipping to draws for resting or stick-clipping bolts above. Also when cleaning weirdly placed anchors - ability to adjust the distance from achor is super useful.
Great video on why you use the adjust... I've always been reluctant to spend the money one when I can clove hitch the rope on trad or use a dyneema PAS as a rappelling extension/ attachment point (in the same way you use the adjust with the rap device mid way)... but you may have just converted me 😊
For storing it on your harness try this: Make a bight in the connect adjust rope, feed the bight under the waist belt of your harness (can thread it up or down) , clip the bight with the carabiner. Stays out of the way of other gear, can be placed anywhere around your torso, and is easy to pull out at full extension. Invented by me tinkering longer than I'd like to admit.
@@shatter98 Yeah not bad! just makes the harness a bit less comfortable when climbing but when you depoly it to clip in thats not a problems. Another good solution!
Thank you for going over many uses of the connect. I use a rope tied as you show at 19m35s, using both tails of the eight to have two anchors for clipping in, rap extension etc.
I use the KONG SLYDE, which works really well for me and is a much cheaper option. I put it on my harness at full extension and tuck the extra loop under one of my leg loops.
Nice video Dave, it would be good to have an article about this (linked to the video of course) in Professional Mountaineer magazine. A 500 worder (1 page) would do the job...
That's the most diplomatic way of saying, this ain't gonna fit around your waist if you're a fat bastard 😂. Awesome video as always mate. Thorough and all from experience. Tip top 👌👌👌
Great video as always Dave. Any reason you use a 60cm sling doubled over for rappel extension rather than 30cm tied direct to harness in same way as Pconnect?
Hi Dave, Thanks for the great video (first time stumbling accross your channel). I would like it if you could elaborate on your system for cleaning single pitch sport routes, it wasn't clear in the video. Do you clove hitch and then clean using a bight through the anchor below the clove? Also, the way I rack my Adjust is the same as your second method (shortening it and racking on the back gear loop) the only difference being is that I tuck the loose bight into my leg loop.
For rappel extension using the connect, must the clove hitch be midway or closer to the belay device? In other words, if the clove hitch is too close to the tether carabiner will that make it difficult to unclip from anchor as you transition to rappel?
I only use the belay loop for metal so I keep shreds of metal out of my ropes, I know its overkill but its just what I do. belaying of top never seemed a problem
This might be a stupid question: how does the connect adjust perform in a situation where you are attached to the anchor by the connect adjust, but belaying of your harness and catching a whipper? Are there any concerns with the forces applied to the sewn loop that are attaching you to the anchor?
Good video but don't agree that it gives you a 2:1 pulley. It's only redirecting the direction of pull. As an example, if you pull in 10cm on the free end it will lift you 10cm so no mechanical advantage.
The slip knot solution for stowing away the adjust rope seems quite complicated and bulky. The is a way easier and better solution, i-m-o. Just store the lanyards middle excess in the leeg-loop and pull out if needed.
I appreciate that while not sponsored by edelrid, you show the pros and cons of the alternatives. Similarly, I appreciate showing the pros and cons of modifying the connect adjust with alternative cords. We can all read the official statements and instructions from Petzl and then choose our own adventure, but it is nice to see a sponsored person from Petzl not "just" towing the company line. Well done on finding a good balance between the two!
The slip knot solution for stowing away the Adjust rope is brilliant +1 Thank you!
You won me over when you said you rack gates out!
🫶
If you have to unload the system frequently to adjust the length, I find it more easy to attach the Adjust the other way around. Clip the device to your harness with the carabiner and use a second carabiner in the big loop to attach to the anchorpoint. To unload the system pull yourself up using the second carabiner or the big loop as a handle. With your other hand you can give more slack in the system at the device near your harness. Greetings from Belgium and much appreciation for the in depth explanation.
Interesting. Not used it like that before but could be a good tip for someone!
Thank you for this helpful video. Your tip about the slipknot is super useful.
Anyone who doesn't have a Connect Adjust yet and is thinking of buying one might want to wait a bit. I found some pictures of an updated version that has not yet been released by Petzl, but will probably be on the market in 2024.
The new model has a Dyneema loop for attaching to the belay loop and a small eyelet through which you can thread a small thread.
That would prob explain why they are out of stock through petzl. Thanks !
Dyneema will cut your belay loop easier... There's a video on HowNot2 about dyneema cutting a belay loop.
@thekaydonsouth what’s the forces involved to cut a belay loop with dynemma? Enough to break your back or give you serious internal injuries I would bet. Not the sub 1kn you would normally be putting into your rappel setup.
I use a Beal Espresso (built rapp extension is great). The drawback of it is there is no length adjust however I have added this simply with a prusik (still attaching the espresso end to the carb). This also gives the advantage of having a second prusik on you for any rope climbing. It isn't as long as the petzl but that has its positives and negatives.
for storing I extend the sling, clip it to the second gear loop and shove the remaining slack under the leg loop. easy, fully extended, neatly stored...
as for the carabiner, I have the feeling I want the safest connection for myself... hence I always have used a ball lock, which worked fine. recently I have switched from Am'D to an ovalo, as this one is smaller and feels easier to operate.
for rappelling I use a 40 cm edelrid aramid sling and clove hitch the carabiner. find it perfect in length and also useful for threading whilst climbing.
Perfectly structured video!
A couple of months ago I saw your setup and since I've been also using my adjust with Sm'd Twist Lock, so much easier than a screw gate I had before.
Ever since Petzl Connect Adjust came out, it has been my favourite piece of climbing gear. I couldn't recommend it more highly!
When I keep it on the harness, I have found the partially extended version going behind draws and cams the best for me. In probably 4 years since I had it, I never encountered issue of that setup being too short.
Altough I use it a lot on multipitches (sport and trad), I have found it extremely useful for single pitch sport climbing too, especially when projecting - clipping to draws for resting or stick-clipping bolts above. Also when cleaning weirdly placed anchors - ability to adjust the distance from achor is super useful.
perfect timing for this video - just bought mine from Snell!
Great video on why you use the adjust... I've always been reluctant to spend the money one when I can clove hitch the rope on trad or use a dyneema PAS as a rappelling extension/ attachment point (in the same way you use the adjust with the rap device mid way)... but you may have just converted me 😊
For storing it on your harness try this: Make a bight in the connect adjust rope, feed the bight under the waist belt of your harness (can thread it up or down) , clip the bight with the carabiner. Stays out of the way of other gear, can be placed anywhere around your torso, and is easy to pull out at full extension. Invented by me tinkering longer than I'd like to admit.
I’ll try it thanks!
@@DaveSearle Try it? Thoughts?
@@shatter98 Yeah not bad! just makes the harness a bit less comfortable when climbing but when you depoly it to clip in thats not a problems. Another good solution!
Thank you for going over many uses of the connect. I use a rope tied as you show at 19m35s, using both tails of the eight to have two anchors for clipping in, rap extension etc.
I use the KONG SLYDE, which works really well for me and is a much cheaper option. I put it on my harness at full extension and tuck the extra loop under one of my leg loops.
Check the Rock Empire PIP. Slightly ligther and very easy to unload... BTW, nice OAK cap!
Nice video Dave, it would be good to have an article about this (linked to the video of course) in Professional Mountaineer magazine. A 500 worder (1 page) would do the job...
Happy to do that Steve. Can you send me an email ? There is a contact form on my website
Glad you found a use for that the edelrid!
I just clip the carabiner to my shirt collar. Fast, safe, accessible, and for the most part out of the way.
That's the most diplomatic way of saying, this ain't gonna fit around your waist if you're a fat bastard 😂. Awesome video as always mate. Thorough and all from experience. Tip top 👌👌👌
Hahah. Thanks!
Great video as always Dave. Any reason you use a 60cm sling doubled over for rappel extension rather than 30cm tied direct to harness in same way as Pconnect?
Mostly because I don’t own any 30cm slings. 60 is a useful length for an alpine runner but I’ve not found a use for 30cm
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the great video (first time stumbling accross your channel).
I would like it if you could elaborate on your system for cleaning single pitch sport routes, it wasn't clear in the video.
Do you clove hitch and then clean using a bight through the anchor below the clove?
Also, the way I rack my Adjust is the same as your second method (shortening it and racking on the back gear loop) the only difference being is that I tuck the loose bight into my leg loop.
Add a gri gri in there and you have a nice releasable PAS for stacked rappels with an injured person.
~Alpine grillon.
For rappel extension using the connect, must the clove hitch be midway or closer to the belay device? In other words, if the clove hitch is too close to the tether carabiner will that make it difficult to unclip from anchor as you transition to rappel?
I only use the belay loop for metal so I keep shreds of metal out of my ropes, I know its overkill but its just what I do. belaying of top never seemed a problem
What do you think about using adjust with Petzl Vertigo
Yeah not tried it but it seems like it would be good!
Looks slick but I can't bring myself to carry extra weight since I always have the rope and a bunch of slings.
Thanks
This might be a stupid question: how does the connect adjust perform in a situation where you are attached to the anchor by the connect adjust, but belaying of your harness and catching a whipper?
Are there any concerns with the forces applied to the sewn loop that are attaching you to the anchor?
That's a good question. I think the short answer is no, there's not anything to worry about this in a recreational climbing context.
Ask Petzl for adding extra loop as Beal EXPRESSO
But I know new version (without it) is coming next year
Good video but don't agree that it gives you a 2:1 pulley. It's only redirecting the direction of pull. As an example, if you pull in 10cm on the free end it will lift you 10cm so no mechanical advantage.
Good point! Forever learning! Thanks.
For the occasional climber, any arguments against using a purcell prusik instead?
PP - bulky, awkward, fairly single use, inexpensive.
Connect adjust: slightly less bulky, easier to use, gives longer extension, more expensive.
The slip knot solution for stowing away the adjust rope seems quite complicated and bulky.
The is a way easier and better solution, i-m-o. Just store the lanyards middle excess in the leeg-loop and pull out if needed.
I found your method it was often in the way of the rope I’m working with or my hand coils but yeah it works and might suit someone