I appreciate that while not sponsored by edelrid, you show the pros and cons of the alternatives. Similarly, I appreciate showing the pros and cons of modifying the connect adjust with alternative cords. We can all read the official statements and instructions from Petzl and then choose our own adventure, but it is nice to see a sponsored person from Petzl not "just" towing the company line. Well done on finding a good balance between the two!
Thank you for this helpful video. Your tip about the slipknot is super useful. Anyone who doesn't have a Connect Adjust yet and is thinking of buying one might want to wait a bit. I found some pictures of an updated version that has not yet been released by Petzl, but will probably be on the market in 2024. The new model has a Dyneema loop for attaching to the belay loop and a small eyelet through which you can thread a small thread.
@thekaydonsouth what’s the forces involved to cut a belay loop with dynemma? Enough to break your back or give you serious internal injuries I would bet. Not the sub 1kn you would normally be putting into your rappel setup.
I use a Beal Espresso (built rapp extension is great). The drawback of it is there is no length adjust however I have added this simply with a prusik (still attaching the espresso end to the carb). This also gives the advantage of having a second prusik on you for any rope climbing. It isn't as long as the petzl but that has its positives and negatives.
Thank you for going over many uses of the connect. I use a rope tied as you show at 19m35s, using both tails of the eight to have two anchors for clipping in, rap extension etc.
Perfectly structured video! A couple of months ago I saw your setup and since I've been also using my adjust with Sm'd Twist Lock, so much easier than a screw gate I had before. Ever since Petzl Connect Adjust came out, it has been my favourite piece of climbing gear. I couldn't recommend it more highly! When I keep it on the harness, I have found the partially extended version going behind draws and cams the best for me. In probably 4 years since I had it, I never encountered issue of that setup being too short. Altough I use it a lot on multipitches (sport and trad), I have found it extremely useful for single pitch sport climbing too, especially when projecting - clipping to draws for resting or stick-clipping bolts above. Also when cleaning weirdly placed anchors - ability to adjust the distance from achor is super useful.
for storing I extend the sling, clip it to the second gear loop and shove the remaining slack under the leg loop. easy, fully extended, neatly stored... as for the carabiner, I have the feeling I want the safest connection for myself... hence I always have used a ball lock, which worked fine. recently I have switched from Am'D to an ovalo, as this one is smaller and feels easier to operate. for rappelling I use a 40 cm edelrid aramid sling and clove hitch the carabiner. find it perfect in length and also useful for threading whilst climbing.
For storing it on your harness try this: Make a bight in the connect adjust rope, feed the bight under the waist belt of your harness (can thread it up or down) , clip the bight with the carabiner. Stays out of the way of other gear, can be placed anywhere around your torso, and is easy to pull out at full extension. Invented by me tinkering longer than I'd like to admit.
@@shatter98 Yeah not bad! just makes the harness a bit less comfortable when climbing but when you depoly it to clip in thats not a problems. Another good solution!
If you have to unload the system frequently to adjust the length, I find it more easy to attach the Adjust the other way around. Clip the device to your harness with the carabiner and use a second carabiner in the big loop to attach to the anchorpoint. To unload the system pull yourself up using the second carabiner or the big loop as a handle. With your other hand you can give more slack in the system at the device near your harness. Greetings from Belgium and much appreciation for the in depth explanation.
Great video on why you use the adjust... I've always been reluctant to spend the money one when I can clove hitch the rope on trad or use a dyneema PAS as a rappelling extension/ attachment point (in the same way you use the adjust with the rap device mid way)... but you may have just converted me 😊
Huh. I might try this. I've always used the metolius PAS... lets me clip into an anchor and made more room for the party to clip in and organize gear on. But this looks kinda slick!
Just an FYI, used in the situation shown it doesnt give a 2:1 mechanical advantage, just a redirected 1:1. If it was upside down, as in the belay loop attachment point was on the anchor and adjustable end on the haul load then it would be a 2:1. 👍
I use the KONG SLYDE, which works really well for me and is a much cheaper option. I put it on my harness at full extension and tuck the extra loop under one of my leg loops.
Nice video Dave, it would be good to have an article about this (linked to the video of course) in Professional Mountaineer magazine. A 500 worder (1 page) would do the job...
Hi Dave, thanks for the informative videos. Still wondering how I feel about my own connect adjust and this vid helps the love, or lack of. I am intrigued by that "girth-hitch-able" quick draw, can't find it anywhere. Looks like petzl made it, but not on their US website? How I can get a hold of some, they may be perfect for replacing old tat on my some of my ancient cams. Thanks!!! Ivan
Great video as always Dave. Any reason you use a 60cm sling doubled over for rappel extension rather than 30cm tied direct to harness in same way as Pconnect?
The Connect Adjust was a little difficult to soruce right now since they will change model for 2025. I however got a Fixe Manso and that seems very nice.
That's the most diplomatic way of saying, this ain't gonna fit around your waist if you're a fat bastard 😂. Awesome video as always mate. Thorough and all from experience. Tip top 👌👌👌
Hi Dave, in the combined tether/rappel extension scenario. After you have put yourself on rappel with the device on the Clovehitch and unclip from the anchor, do you just leave the anchor carabiner dangling or do you clip it back toyour belay loop?
What about the Dual Connect Vario ? Any thoughts ? I use that one as it was a gift and I realised it could be used as a SAR (système auxiliaire de relais). I reckon is a good argument, but I agree that as a lanyard it's annoying to isolate one carabiner to keep in the rap extension, same as not having anything attached to it and just having the loose end dangling..
Hi Dave, Thanks for the great video (first time stumbling accross your channel). I would like it if you could elaborate on your system for cleaning single pitch sport routes, it wasn't clear in the video. Do you clove hitch and then clean using a bight through the anchor below the clove? Also, the way I rack my Adjust is the same as your second method (shortening it and racking on the back gear loop) the only difference being is that I tuck the loose bight into my leg loop.
It's often done by attaching yourself to the anchor with a quick draw. Clip the quick draw so you can get slack, pass a bite thru, make a new 8, clip it, undo your old 8, take, and lower. I feel like in order to put a clove in the right place, you would need to hold your own bodyweight on the rock while you belay gives you enough slack to put the clove where it needs to go. Seems less than ideal.
One of the uses of the duel connect adjust suggested by Petzl is creating a quickly equalized anchor. Do you see any benefit to carrying the duel in a glacier environment for this reason?
I only use the belay loop for metal so I keep shreds of metal out of my ropes, I know its overkill but its just what I do. belaying of top never seemed a problem
For rappel extension using the connect, must the clove hitch be midway or closer to the belay device? In other words, if the clove hitch is too close to the tether carabiner will that make it difficult to unclip from anchor as you transition to rappel?
This might be a stupid question: how does the connect adjust perform in a situation where you are attached to the anchor by the connect adjust, but belaying of your harness and catching a whipper? Are there any concerns with the forces applied to the sewn loop that are attaching you to the anchor?
The slip knot solution for stowing away the adjust rope seems quite complicated and bulky. The is a way easier and better solution, i-m-o. Just store the lanyards middle excess in the leeg-loop and pull out if needed.
Good video but don't agree that it gives you a 2:1 pulley. It's only redirecting the direction of pull. As an example, if you pull in 10cm on the free end it will lift you 10cm so no mechanical advantage.
I appreciate that while not sponsored by edelrid, you show the pros and cons of the alternatives. Similarly, I appreciate showing the pros and cons of modifying the connect adjust with alternative cords. We can all read the official statements and instructions from Petzl and then choose our own adventure, but it is nice to see a sponsored person from Petzl not "just" towing the company line. Well done on finding a good balance between the two!
The slip knot solution for stowing away the Adjust rope is brilliant +1 Thank you!
You won me over when you said you rack gates out!
🫶
Thank you for this helpful video. Your tip about the slipknot is super useful.
Anyone who doesn't have a Connect Adjust yet and is thinking of buying one might want to wait a bit. I found some pictures of an updated version that has not yet been released by Petzl, but will probably be on the market in 2024.
The new model has a Dyneema loop for attaching to the belay loop and a small eyelet through which you can thread a small thread.
That would prob explain why they are out of stock through petzl. Thanks !
Dyneema will cut your belay loop easier... There's a video on HowNot2 about dyneema cutting a belay loop.
@thekaydonsouth what’s the forces involved to cut a belay loop with dynemma? Enough to break your back or give you serious internal injuries I would bet. Not the sub 1kn you would normally be putting into your rappel setup.
@@thekaydonsouth Yeah, if you put your full weight on it and saw it back and forth like a crazy person for 5 minutes...
I use a Beal Espresso (built rapp extension is great). The drawback of it is there is no length adjust however I have added this simply with a prusik (still attaching the espresso end to the carb). This also gives the advantage of having a second prusik on you for any rope climbing. It isn't as long as the petzl but that has its positives and negatives.
Thank you for going over many uses of the connect. I use a rope tied as you show at 19m35s, using both tails of the eight to have two anchors for clipping in, rap extension etc.
Perfectly structured video!
A couple of months ago I saw your setup and since I've been also using my adjust with Sm'd Twist Lock, so much easier than a screw gate I had before.
Ever since Petzl Connect Adjust came out, it has been my favourite piece of climbing gear. I couldn't recommend it more highly!
When I keep it on the harness, I have found the partially extended version going behind draws and cams the best for me. In probably 4 years since I had it, I never encountered issue of that setup being too short.
Altough I use it a lot on multipitches (sport and trad), I have found it extremely useful for single pitch sport climbing too, especially when projecting - clipping to draws for resting or stick-clipping bolts above. Also when cleaning weirdly placed anchors - ability to adjust the distance from achor is super useful.
for storing I extend the sling, clip it to the second gear loop and shove the remaining slack under the leg loop. easy, fully extended, neatly stored...
as for the carabiner, I have the feeling I want the safest connection for myself... hence I always have used a ball lock, which worked fine. recently I have switched from Am'D to an ovalo, as this one is smaller and feels easier to operate.
for rappelling I use a 40 cm edelrid aramid sling and clove hitch the carabiner. find it perfect in length and also useful for threading whilst climbing.
perfect timing for this video - just bought mine from Snell!
For storing it on your harness try this: Make a bight in the connect adjust rope, feed the bight under the waist belt of your harness (can thread it up or down) , clip the bight with the carabiner. Stays out of the way of other gear, can be placed anywhere around your torso, and is easy to pull out at full extension. Invented by me tinkering longer than I'd like to admit.
I’ll try it thanks!
@@DaveSearle Try it? Thoughts?
@@shatter98 Yeah not bad! just makes the harness a bit less comfortable when climbing but when you depoly it to clip in thats not a problems. Another good solution!
If you have to unload the system frequently to adjust the length, I find it more easy to attach the Adjust the other way around. Clip the device to your harness with the carabiner and use a second carabiner in the big loop to attach to the anchorpoint. To unload the system pull yourself up using the second carabiner or the big loop as a handle. With your other hand you can give more slack in the system at the device near your harness. Greetings from Belgium and much appreciation for the in depth explanation.
Interesting. Not used it like that before but could be a good tip for someone!
Great video on why you use the adjust... I've always been reluctant to spend the money one when I can clove hitch the rope on trad or use a dyneema PAS as a rappelling extension/ attachment point (in the same way you use the adjust with the rap device mid way)... but you may have just converted me 😊
Huh. I might try this. I've always used the metolius PAS... lets me clip into an anchor and made more room for the party to clip in and organize gear on. But this looks kinda slick!
Just an FYI, used in the situation shown it doesnt give a 2:1 mechanical advantage, just a redirected 1:1. If it was upside down, as in the belay loop attachment point was on the anchor and adjustable end on the haul load then it would be a 2:1. 👍
Thanks!
Check the Rock Empire PIP. Slightly ligther and very easy to unload... BTW, nice OAK cap!
I use the KONG SLYDE, which works really well for me and is a much cheaper option. I put it on my harness at full extension and tuck the extra loop under one of my leg loops.
Glad you found a use for that the edelrid!
Nice video Dave, it would be good to have an article about this (linked to the video of course) in Professional Mountaineer magazine. A 500 worder (1 page) would do the job...
Happy to do that Steve. Can you send me an email ? There is a contact form on my website
Hi Dave, thanks for the informative videos. Still wondering how I feel about my own connect adjust and this vid helps the love, or lack of. I am intrigued by that "girth-hitch-able" quick draw, can't find it anywhere. Looks like petzl made it, but not on their US website? How I can get a hold of some, they may be perfect for replacing old tat on my some of my ancient cams. Thanks!!! Ivan
No worries
Are you talking about the alpine draw? You typically make them yourself by buying a 60cm sling and two carabiners.
Great video as always Dave. Any reason you use a 60cm sling doubled over for rappel extension rather than 30cm tied direct to harness in same way as Pconnect?
Mostly because I don’t own any 30cm slings. 60 is a useful length for an alpine runner but I’ve not found a use for 30cm
The Connect Adjust was a little difficult to soruce right now since they will change model for 2025. I however got a Fixe Manso and that seems very nice.
That's the most diplomatic way of saying, this ain't gonna fit around your waist if you're a fat bastard 😂. Awesome video as always mate. Thorough and all from experience. Tip top 👌👌👌
Hahah. Thanks!
I just clip the carabiner to my shirt collar. Fast, safe, accessible, and for the most part out of the way.
Add a gri gri in there and you have a nice releasable PAS for stacked rappels with an injured person.
~Alpine grillon.
Hi Dave, in the combined tether/rappel extension scenario. After you have put yourself on rappel with the device on the Clovehitch and unclip from the anchor, do you just leave the anchor carabiner dangling or do you clip it back toyour belay loop?
In a rescue situation I like to have an anchoring system separate from the climbing rope.
Another good reason for this device
@@DaveSearle That has been my experience. I love this thing. I've been using it ever since it came out! I like the slipknot stash. Very clean.
What about the Dual Connect Vario ? Any thoughts ? I use that one as it was a gift and I realised it could be used as a SAR (système auxiliaire de relais). I reckon is a good argument, but I agree that as a lanyard it's annoying to isolate one carabiner to keep in the rap extension, same as not having anything attached to it and just having the loose end dangling..
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the great video (first time stumbling accross your channel).
I would like it if you could elaborate on your system for cleaning single pitch sport routes, it wasn't clear in the video.
Do you clove hitch and then clean using a bight through the anchor below the clove?
Also, the way I rack my Adjust is the same as your second method (shortening it and racking on the back gear loop) the only difference being is that I tuck the loose bight into my leg loop.
It's often done by attaching yourself to the anchor with a quick draw. Clip the quick draw so you can get slack, pass a bite thru, make a new 8, clip it, undo your old 8, take, and lower.
I feel like in order to put a clove in the right place, you would need to hold your own bodyweight on the rock while you belay gives you enough slack to put the clove where it needs to go. Seems less than ideal.
@geometerfpv2804 oh, thanks for the explanation.
I don't know why I assumed it'd be something fancy and uncommon.
What do you think about using adjust with Petzl Vertigo
Yeah not tried it but it seems like it would be good!
One of the uses of the duel connect adjust suggested by Petzl is creating a quickly equalized anchor. Do you see any benefit to carrying the duel in a glacier environment for this reason?
I only use the belay loop for metal so I keep shreds of metal out of my ropes, I know its overkill but its just what I do. belaying of top never seemed a problem
For rappel extension using the connect, must the clove hitch be midway or closer to the belay device? In other words, if the clove hitch is too close to the tether carabiner will that make it difficult to unclip from anchor as you transition to rappel?
Looks slick but I can't bring myself to carry extra weight since I always have the rope and a bunch of slings.
What is the difference between Dual connect adjust and Progress Y?
This might be a stupid question: how does the connect adjust perform in a situation where you are attached to the anchor by the connect adjust, but belaying of your harness and catching a whipper?
Are there any concerns with the forces applied to the sewn loop that are attaching you to the anchor?
That's a good question. I think the short answer is no, there's not anything to worry about this in a recreational climbing context.
Definitely not. You can check out some sewn loop break test videos for confidence.
Thanks
For the occasional climber, any arguments against using a purcell prusik instead?
PP - bulky, awkward, fairly single use, inexpensive.
Connect adjust: slightly less bulky, easier to use, gives longer extension, more expensive.
Ask Petzl for adding extra loop as Beal EXPRESSO
But I know new version (without it) is coming next year
I like that you included the vario in a few spots in a video released after the vario's been retired.
The slip knot solution for stowing away the adjust rope seems quite complicated and bulky.
The is a way easier and better solution, i-m-o. Just store the lanyards middle excess in the leeg-loop and pull out if needed.
I found your method it was often in the way of the rope I’m working with or my hand coils but yeah it works and might suit someone
Good video but don't agree that it gives you a 2:1 pulley. It's only redirecting the direction of pull. As an example, if you pull in 10cm on the free end it will lift you 10cm so no mechanical advantage.
Good point! Forever learning! Thanks.