Lead Rope Solo - A Draft for a Risk Assessment | EDELRID Knowledge Base

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  • Опубликовано: 8 янв 2025

Комментарии • 88

  • @YannCamusBlissClimbing
    @YannCamusBlissClimbing Месяц назад +117

    This video by Edelrid (and its accompanying article) represents a groundbreaking effort in identifying specific risks associated with lead rope soloing (LRS). I believe this is the first time anyone has dedicated so much effort to dissecting these risks in such detail. The closest comparable approach for top-rope soloing (TRS) is Petzl's comprehensive 10-part self-belaying series of webpages (still accessible, published in 2016). This video marks a milestone in the evolution of LRS and will undoubtedly shape its future for the better.

    • @yosephalabdulwahab4151
      @yosephalabdulwahab4151 Месяц назад +3

      I was about to comment what about Yann before seeing it's Yann's comment 😂

  • @johtso1
    @johtso1 Месяц назад +69

    Very well made video! Excited to see if Edelrid might consider developing any products for this space..

  • @johnnyray6272
    @johnnyray6272 Месяц назад +24

    If you use a rope-backfeed prevention at the first piece of protection, this also solves the problem of improperly loading the carabiner at the anchor. It can be fixed in a favorable position and you can climb with piece of mind about your anchor in the event of a fall.
    The backfeed prevention carabiner inserts from Avant Climbing Technology are well worth the investment for anyone regularly rope solo climbing! A game changing innovation for the discipline.

    • @alexdevalera4550
      @alexdevalera4550 Месяц назад +2

      The use of a device designed for LRS like the Silent Partner or El Mudo eliminates some of the risks. Eliminating the back feed is easy, using a shock absorber is a good thing and being alone is better than being in bad company !
      The worst experiences I had out in the mountains were because of people who overestimated themselves, which led to unwanted bivouacs and accidents. Anyway you do well to assess the risks and you are right in your explanations. I stopped solo climbing when my youngest daughter was born and I was 50, but I started again a couple of years ago, now that I got El Mudo and I really enjoy it at 75 !

  • @reneeschke
    @reneeschke Месяц назад +4

    Highly impressed by this video. I've put a considerable amount of time in LRS and disagree with a lot of videos and methods being taught online. In this video however, there is nothing to complain about. Your findings 100% match mine after slowly working towards a system together with a much better rock climber buddy that is also a highly certified rope access worker.
    Few things I would like to add tho: One cant mention enough that all discussed risks are even higher during exploration and training phases. Also: climbing unknown routes and areas also increases likelihood of mistakes and falls in general, of course. I've done LRS a lot this season, but only 2 times actually alone and always at my home crag. Highly adviced to not explore alone and only perform LRS on sight when the grade is five dot fun or the system is reaaaly dialed in! Climbing alone together is incredible fun in general. So even in a party, I prefer to climb solo these days.
    I woud also like to know your opinion on using a long tailed barrel knot with minimum of 3 wraps as first anchor point. Due to its sliding nature, the shock absoroption is, to our tests, significantly better and makes even a factor 2 fall much smoother.
    Only critique I would have for this video is that that most presented anchor risk counter methods are at best impracticle, if not impossible on a lot of routes, as you can't do them one handedly. It's therefore realistic and reasonable to assume people will use other methods, which I'd love to have been evaluated here as well. For example: we use a preassambled barrelknot at point 1 and a short aramid prusik at point 2. Pulling the first anchor upwards is possible one handed and 3 wraps with aramid are more than strong enough in case point 1 fails.
    Thank you very, very much for this video! We truly appreciate the investment and dedication to educate and keep the community safe!

  • @TasosKourpouanidis
    @TasosKourpouanidis Месяц назад +9

    This risk assesment by Edelrid is referred to 7 apt observations and it is very well aimed.
    Perhaps an 8th point should be added. It is the possible rope abrasion because of the fact that the rope is fixed to the ground anchor and the same spots are always touching the same edges in contrast to team climbing. So IMO the need of intermediate belays (rebelays) should be pointed in order to avoid dangerous point of contact. Otherwise, it is very probable to get a core shot or even a severe damage of the rope due to an upcoming fall in a difficult terrain. (Especially if someone is projecting and falls more than once)

  • @rock_shot
    @rock_shot Месяц назад +8

    Thanks for putting two of my thumbnails into your video :) Also thanks for talking about the risk of being alone and the self rescue topic!

  • @geometerfpv2804
    @geometerfpv2804 Месяц назад +19

    Develop a device for LRS! There is a big hole in the modern marketplace for this!

    • @rampel1
      @rampel1 Месяц назад +2

      I think this is a case of judging liability vs profit. It is indeed a big market niche, but at the same time it would be a huge product development project with a huge risk in liability in case of any device failure or issues. I think LRS gets tons more exposure, but is still not the main intrest for most climbers. Seeing how climbers, who climb without a partner are probably more inclined in going for bouldering. And I do know this is comparing apples to not just oranges, but to tea cups, but I hope you get my point.

    • @Mike-oz4cv
      @Mike-oz4cv Месяц назад

      How would such a device look? I can only imagine something like the Wild Country Revo. As far as I’m aware the Silent Partner uses a similar principle (centrifugal clutch).

    • @mangiari
      @mangiari Месяц назад +4

      The request for a device clearly proves that the video was not understood, as all the limitations by the current devices in use can be very well mitigated, but other limitations/risks cannot as well. If the device is your major concern, you better don't rope solo.

    • @geometerfpv2804
      @geometerfpv2804 3 дня назад

      ​​@@mangiari I know how to mitigate the risks associated with the different devices...but I think one could do better with a device purpose-designed. In particular, I think a device could be designed that doesn't suffer from the upside down fall risk.
      LRS can be done safely today, but it's in the "cutting edge hobby" phase where people are using 3D printed solutions. It could be done more conveniently and easily with more manufacturer support, and that is what I'm hoping for (as much as I love 3D printed gizmos).

    • @geometerfpv2804
      @geometerfpv2804 3 дня назад +1

      ​@@rampel1Yes, but they are already a PPE company, liability is already the name of the game. I am sure they have enormous amounts of insurance for that. I don't see why it would be different from any other climbing device. The big difference with LRS today is that it doesn't have a set of manufacturer tested suggestions.
      Even if they just came out with a manufacturer backed guide for the pinch, that would be cool.

  • @domen1154
    @domen1154 4 дня назад +1

    This is really good information, much appreciated!

    • @edelrid
      @edelrid  День назад +1

      Thank you, we appreciate the feedback! 🙂

  • @mangiari
    @mangiari Месяц назад +5

    Thanks a lot for the very neutral and informative video! It adds a lot to the information published on the "hownot2" channel. ❤

  • @radostwaszkiewicz4982
    @radostwaszkiewicz4982 Месяц назад +1

    Rope solo with a friend makes sense!
    You can both climb at the same time, or it can be the case of 3rd person on a sport trip etc.

  • @SWISSPOWERJET
    @SWISSPOWERJET Месяц назад

    finally one big player helps a climbing version with analysing - thanks a lot

  • @stefanomorandi7150
    @stefanomorandi7150 Месяц назад +1

    praise be on Edelrid for making a video about this touchy topic, as far as i know the only big brand to do so (petzl published soemthing about toprope since it relates to vertical rope work i guess)

  • @stefanbrunner8183
    @stefanbrunner8183 Месяц назад +1

    Danke Daniel,
    perfekt gemacht.

  • @krgc_88
    @krgc_88 2 дня назад +1

    Excellent video ❤ please make simlar about top rope solo 😉

  • @arielholtz
    @arielholtz Месяц назад +1

    Great analysis, has already helped me tweak.

  • @murray1234ful
    @murray1234ful 26 дней назад +1

    this is the most german thing i've ever seen and I mean that as a sincere compliment

  • @johanneslerchenmueller3012
    @johanneslerchenmueller3012 Месяц назад +3

    Sauber Daniel ! Grüße aus Norwegen :)

  • @maxwright4387
    @maxwright4387 Месяц назад +1

    great video thanks for sharing!

  • @pepaskrovad638
    @pepaskrovad638 Месяц назад +3

    Excellent analysis

  • @hansgroenendijk1868
    @hansgroenendijk1868 Месяц назад

    Great content.
    Some feedback about risk#5, Function of belay device:
    It is my opinion that a slightly longer cache loop with a modified Grigri in the upright position (added attachment point attached to a chest harnas) does grab the rope well within < 0,5m during a fall. Person and cash loop are indeed both falling and therefore weightless as you stated, but the cache loop feeding into the Grigri will require a force - the rope is pulled up into the device thus lifting half the weight of the cache loop (the section till the halfway point of the loop) this weight - a force! - activates the cam in the Grigri.

  • @iakobus
    @iakobus Месяц назад +1

    Excellent video. 👍
    Google Pixel's Safety check (or alternatives) can be used to speed up the potential rescue in the areas where is GSM available (ad. 1. being alone).
    This feature will report last known GPS coordinates to predefined contacts in case of not reporting in time.

  • @sergeantcrow
    @sergeantcrow Месяц назад +1

    Excellent....

  • @rocart
    @rocart Месяц назад

    Vielen herzlichen Dank für das tolle Video!!!
    Sehr ausführlich.
    Ich mache LRS zum Trainieren und gehe dafür nicht tief in die Bergwelt hinein.
    Ich treffe die meisten bis fast alle diese Sicherheits- Massnahmen.
    Ich verwende zum Start einen Clipstick damit ich die 1.-2. Expresse bereits setzen kann.
    Ich nehme den 55-240cm Stick danach mit um eventuelle Schlüsselstellen oder Überhänge vor zu klippen.
    Wenn ich kann nehme ich jemanden mit der zuschaut und der im Notfall die Rettung alarmieren könnte.
    Für mich gilt zu allem „Stürzen verboten“
    Vielen Dank!
    Grüsse aus der Schweiz

  • @adamg6704
    @adamg6704 Месяц назад +1

    It would be awesome to have an indoor gym like in this video that allowed people to practice this vs learning outside as pretty much all of us do currently.

    • @geometerfpv2804
      @geometerfpv2804 3 дня назад

      Yeah I totally agree...but how would the gym have any idea if you know what you're doing? Gyms don't even let us top rope without a second loop for friction much less this.

  • @ChetFaker-z7x
    @ChetFaker-z7x Месяц назад +1

    Great content !

  • @DayanidhiTorrisi-iu5ie
    @DayanidhiTorrisi-iu5ie Месяц назад

    Well done Edelrid

  • @giusepperanieri81
    @giusepperanieri81 Месяц назад +1

    I would like to have a better comparison between force generated by human belayer and solo belayer at similar factor falls.
    I use some clothespin to stop the back feed of the rope.
    In my experience it’s better to use Kevlar sling to do a full soft anchor.
    Dyneema is not the best choice in that case with multiple strands in a confined space as testing shows a risk of fusion due to its relatively low melting point.
    Thanks for the professional approach to this argument.

    • @geometerfpv2804
      @geometerfpv2804 3 дня назад

      The melting point is really not that low. I have seen testing that show it's very, very hard to get this "dyneema melt" situation, even if you are rappelling on a munter with 5mm dyneema cord. The friction never gets up into the high 200 degree range. The melting point is low compared with other things, but it's really not that low.

  • @483dk
    @483dk Месяц назад +1

    Excellent video!!!!

  • @bfkeats
    @bfkeats Месяц назад +2

    An engineer clearly wrote this script 😂. Good video. I top rope solo a lot, but I’ve only lead rope soloed once. For the climbing in my area, the reward is not worth the risk for me.

  • @kristopherberks1112
    @kristopherberks1112 Месяц назад +2

    great video

  • @ejwessel
    @ejwessel Месяц назад +2

    @15:42
    how can I get one of these sweet Edelrid quicklink anti-crossload protectors?

  • @fsrodeo81
    @fsrodeo81 24 дня назад

    Very well done, thanks. What about attaching a dissipator at the anchor point (like the Kisa or one for via ferratas) and/or a heavy back pack like back in the old days, just to decrease the forces and have a gentle fall? I use this method and ( only for easy climbs for the moment) works well

  • @ArrampicataGolden
    @ArrampicataGolden Месяц назад

    I use an ELASTIC weel chamber attached to the ancor to reduce impact force and it works.

  • @bwg42
    @bwg42 Месяц назад +3

    19:48 "Direct visual monitoring contradicts the intension of solo climbing"
    tell that to the gawkers at the crag

  • @fabioelliclimbing6222
    @fabioelliclimbing6222 Месяц назад +1

    great video! when will the g-screamers be available?

    • @edelrid
      @edelrid  Месяц назад

      From next year!

  • @gjosephsen
    @gjosephsen Месяц назад +7

    Where are the maillon anticrossload plastic attachments available for purchase?

    • @tukimcfry
      @tukimcfry Месяц назад +1

      Salewa makes some for 8mm maillons, available on their website and other gear websites in Europe

    • @geometerfpv2804
      @geometerfpv2804 3 дня назад

      You can get a bunch of this stuff 3d printed from an online 3d print service. The files are available for free online.

  • @mikafull
    @mikafull Месяц назад +1

    good jobs guys

  • @dimalitvin1687
    @dimalitvin1687 Месяц назад

    "Specifically near the anchor, where the impulse on the braking rope on the device is low..." (13:07)
    I don't undestand why that is.
    I understand the "Impulse" as the acceleration the rope is putting on the device when being pulled tight.
    Must not the Impulse in factor two falls be one of the highest achievable?
    Or what does "near the anchor" mean here?
    Independently of the above: Thanks for bringing out this video about LRS as (as far as I know) the first and so far the only climbing gear manufacturer!

    • @chyza2012
      @chyza2012 Месяц назад +1

      Anchor means top of the climb. Because there is more rope in the system, the elasticity of the rope means there is less force (and impulse) on the device, so it's less likely to lock. Caming devices lock better the higher and quicker the force applied to them, it's the reason you can slowly feed out slack while a sudden yank will lock them. Impulse in physics technically means a force applied over time, but in this case the distinction doesn't mean too much, think of it as the force.

    • @dimalitvin1687
      @dimalitvin1687 Месяц назад

      Ah, ok, if he is talking about the upper anchor (as in towards the end of the pitch) it all makes sense to me.

  • @ArrampicataGolden
    @ArrampicataGolden Месяц назад +1

    Use a steel carabinder with a laterla holds of 18KN and direct one of 40+KN

  • @willharris2274
    @willharris2274 Месяц назад

    Anyone know what route the guy is LRS in the video? The big looking multipitch with tufa? It looks amazing!

  • @466527888
    @466527888 29 дней назад +1

    "Direct visual monitoring contradicts the intension of solo climbing"
    We usually use LRS and TRS in winter aid climbing trainings. It is too uncomfortable and unpleasant to belay when it's -10 degrees Celsius and lower, but there may be many people on the crag. Just everyone climbing and nobody belaying all day.

  • @holzhans2937
    @holzhans2937 Месяц назад

    Wow Stark! Extrem gut als Hersteller mal darauf einzugehen! Da wird gleich der Screamer der ja 2025? von euch auf den Markt kommt gekauft!

    • @edelrid
      @edelrid  Месяц назад

      Thank you for the feedback! Yes, our G-SCREAMER will be available from 2025. 🙂

  • @montanhaescalada
    @montanhaescalada Месяц назад +2

    Where can I find the positioning and locking element for the Maillon Rapide? Despite having the Edelrid brand, I cannot find it on your website

    • @edelrid
      @edelrid  Месяц назад

      Have a look at our SCREWLINK 8 MM: edelrid.com/eu-en/sport/carabiners-and-quickdraws/screwlink-8mm?variant=2441213

  • @tommaalfista
    @tommaalfista Месяц назад

    Salve , pure io pratico questo tipo di arrampicata ma alla base uso un sistema diverso facendo un nodo mascard con un cordino in kevlar al secondo rinvio in modo che mi tenga tirato e sempre in posizione il moschettone che metto all’inizio della via . Questo mi è utile anche in caso di caduta perché non vado a sollecitare troppo il primo ancoraggio

  • @reneeschke
    @reneeschke Месяц назад

    Surprised to not see backup knots mentioned here or any counter measures for possible device failure. My guess would be due to legal implications? Listing counter measures might come of as encouragement to use i.e. pinch outside the norm.
    Or are there other reasons? Would love to know.
    thanks!

  • @denislejeune9218
    @denislejeune9218 Месяц назад

    Good summary. So no Edelrid wizzardry coming to mitigate 'LRS' belay devices's problems?

  • @cydrow
    @cydrow Месяц назад +2

    Does the unmodified pinch work well in LRS? I'm looking forward to a more specific video.

    • @squelchedotter
      @squelchedotter Месяц назад +7

      Informing about the risks is the maximum they can legally do

    • @kristopherberks1112
      @kristopherberks1112 Месяц назад

      @@squelchedotter no it does not, there are some good videos on this.

  • @paulgaras2606
    @paulgaras2606 Месяц назад

    If edelrid produced an LRS harness with rated attachments for cache loops or a device to serve as a clip on backup/slack management solution to eliminate the need for cache loops, I would buy them both and I promise not to sue if I die.

  • @skilllessbeast7416
    @skilllessbeast7416 Месяц назад +2

    Isn't it possible, to put the screamer into the anchor?

    • @tukimcfry
      @tukimcfry Месяц назад

      Not ideal because when you abseil you load the anchor and the screamer could open during abseiling.

  • @tommaalfista
    @tommaalfista 5 дней назад

    I do SELF-BELAY as the leader, so by carrying the rope. I would like to know what they are called and where to find the white plastic/rubber inserts that you see in the video to block the rope on each quickdraw... can anyone help me?

    • @geometerfpv2804
      @geometerfpv2804 3 дня назад

      Avant climbing sells them, or you can 3d print them yourself

  • @tommaalfista
    @tommaalfista 5 дней назад

    Io faccio AUTOSICURA da primo , quindi portando sul la corda . Vorrei sapere come si chiamano e dove trovare gli inserti in plastica /gomma bianchi che si vedono nel video per bloccare la corda su ogni rinvio…qualcuno può aiutarmi?

  • @syringa-lutea
    @syringa-lutea Месяц назад

    Excellent video. Can anyone provide more information on the claim that "the gate can be broken with loads as low as body weight" (16:40)?

    • @JayantWakode
      @JayantWakode Месяц назад

      "The gate *locking* mechanism could be broken". In other words, the carabiner may behave as a non locking carabiner and the gate may open in a certain orientation, in worst case, the carabiner may get clipped out of the bolt

  • @tommaalfista
    @tommaalfista Месяц назад

    Dove si possono trovare i fermi bianchi presenti sui moschettoni dei rinvii? Come si chiamano?

  • @simonsena1378
    @simonsena1378 Месяц назад

    So higher impact forces because of non dynamic belaying?. Because rope lengths for shock absorption are identical.

  • @cia9315
    @cia9315 Месяц назад

    It sucks being alone. But LRS is the only reason i still climb...and might be one day be my last

  • @queasybeetle
    @queasybeetle Месяц назад +2

    Just make a friend

  • @mlarios90
    @mlarios90 Месяц назад

    Me llama mucho la atención que no mencionan ningún aparato diseñado para escalar en solo con cuerda (LRS) como: El Mudo, Soloaid o al Silent Partner...
    Si bien el análisis es cierto, no incluye muchas técnicas utilizadas para este fin.
    Y parte de la premisa de que "escalar con un compañero es más seguro" y esto solo es cierto si los integrantes de la cordada están capacitados y tienen la atención al 100% todo el tiempo, cosa que tampoco ocurre siempre...
    Incluso en los videos que se muestran al principio se observa como el puntero o primero de la cuerda no ha puesto ninguna protección y como el Segundo suelta la cuerda de seguro, si el Primero se cae, habría sufrido una caída FF2 y el Segundo no tenía las manos sujetando la cuerda...
    Me da la impresión que que este "análisis" es un poco parcial o tendencioso.
    I am very struck by the fact that they do not mention any device designed for solo rope climbing (LRS) such as: The Mudo, Soloaid or the Silent Partner...
    While the analysis is true, it does not include many techniques used for this purpose.
    And it starts from the premise that "climbing with a partner is safer" and this is only true if the members of the group are trained and have 100% attention all the time, which does not always happen...
    Even in the videos shown at the beginning it is observed how the Leader or first of the rope has not put any protection and how the Second releases the safety rope, if the Leader falls, he would have suffered an FF2 fall and the Belayer did not have hands holding the rope...
    I get the impression that this "analysis" is a bit partial or biased.

  • @Eccentriciguana
    @Eccentriciguana Месяц назад

    Hey I found your other shoe dm me and we’ll get it back to you! Maybe I can belay you instead of climbing on your own too.

  • @SteveMcMief
    @SteveMcMief Месяц назад

    Great video! But, man, you are butchering the English language with your pronunciation.
    "Climbing" has a silent B.
    "occur" has nothing to do with the word 'cure'
    "Tear value" has nothing to do with water from your eyes.
    Sorry, but all these mistakes really put me off. There are so easy to fix.

    • @iamsometimes6712
      @iamsometimes6712 Месяц назад +7

      Yeah, no thanks for putting so much effort into developing a groundbreaking risk assesment analysis of LRS, editing dozens of clips, writing a 20' script on this seminal work, and trying their best to use a non-native language instead of just captions for English / 'Murican folks. All that... for free.
      Absolutely everybody uploading content on YT should think, speak and sound exactly like you and me. Makes me queazy when not the case.
      You're right, I'd rather they'd never made such a video !
      🙄

    • @SteveMcMief
      @SteveMcMief Месяц назад

      @iamsometimes6712 I said I love the video. And therefore of course I'm grateful about it.
      I just wanted to point out things to improve on. And I'm sure he will. Somebody who is so meticulous like will never mispronounce the words ever again. Wonna bet?

    • @chyza2012
      @chyza2012 Месяц назад

      Did you somehow not know foreign accents existed before you watching this video? Otherwise your comment is just pointless snark.