Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differences and Efficient Usage | Ep.6
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- Опубликовано: 16 май 2024
- Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently.
00:00 Intro
02:07 Tube Style Devices
06:00 Assisted Belay Devices
07:41 Assisted Tubers
09:41 Cam Assisted
10:37 What happens if Belay device gets Trapped in the first bolt?
13:16 Proper way to Attach a Belay Device
16:58 How to go Hands Free / Tie Off?
18:35 Slip Slap Slide - WRONG
19:05 Taking Slack
19:41 Hand over Hand / V to the knee 1,2,3
21:26 PBUS - Pull Break Under Slide
22:08 Tunel Technique
25:32 Mistakes of Taking Slack
26:26 Giving Slack
27:54 Lowering
28:38 Catching a Fall
All experiments showed were done with 9.0mm Mammut Sender Rope - Rope thickness and choice of carabiners has a big effect on results of such experiments, so take my findings as a limited case scenario.
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Deep Thanks!
Ben
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You don't imagine how useful it is for a boulderer like me trying to get into sport climbing! I have taken lessons with a qualified instructor first, but these video are a huge plus to my climbing knowledge.
Amazing! Welcome to climbing more :D
Hard is easy with @@HardIsEasy , bro.
Try to get lessons
Make sure to take a course with a qualified instructor first. As useful as these videos are he can’t check if you are actually doing it correctly.
@@bjrnvogelaar7497 100% this. Always take a quick belaying course. Hard is Easy is great for if you already know some stuff but its not a replacement for real-life guidance from a certified instructor
Forgot to mention that force measurements in the beginning were done just to demonstrate that you can't hold much if your brake hand is up. They are NOT accurate due to errors in measurement devices and also heavily depends on Rope diameter, stiffness, treatments, belay device used etc...
Rope used: 9.0mm Mammut Sender DRY
Also special thanks to everyone who provided feedback on Version 1 of this video many months ago... that resulted into much deeper research of this topic - that's why it took me so long to come up with improved version 2 :D
I thought the first version of this video was well done, but this revised version is fantastic! I’m very impressed with the amount of information you are able to squeeze into these and appreciate the work that goes into it!
This 2 version was spot on! Regarding grigri and trad. As a trad climber who frequently uses the grigri, it would be really interesting to see how much higher the force is on the gear when belaying with a grigri vs tube-device.
Huge thanks for all the time and effort you have put in your channel, it is truly making climbing safer and educating people!
@@hannesbackerling8215 I've actually tested that a bit, the difference is very small to none if you have space to move or jump with Assisted devices, and ofc know how to do that :D
On hanging belay it might be different story...
You make awesome videos! I attended a lot of classes and am still learning new things and refreshing old things. Regarding the correct carabiner for belaying devices there are certain carabiners that prevent auto-tubers from working properly, which may be quiet dangerous and maybe worth mentioning. E.g. DMM belay master combined with the MegaJul.
In reference to the demo @ 3:00 I recommend that you always show the backup belayer in a camera shot both for peace of mind for your viewers and to reinforce the safety themes of your most excellent channel.
Actually, while using a grigri, if you point the gate the other direction (right) while loading/unloading the rope, you can further decrease the risk of dropping, as the nose always stays hooked in. As a right-handed person, this took a slight bit of getting used to, but now it is very smooth and I'm glad to have this technique when up on a wall
According to the German alpine association (DAV) the currently accepted technique to take slack is the tunneling one. This is also how you learn it in climbing courses nowadays.
Great to hear that at other parts of the EU they accept it, because in Hungary (Budapest) at some places they don't allow to use that technique.
There's another important use of tubular devices: retrievable abseil. Where the rope is threaded through or around an anchor at the top of a route (e.g. sport anchors or a tree) and you abseil off both strands. Some assisted tubulars (e.g. Edelrid devices) also do this.
If by retrievable abseil you mean that the rope can be pulled down once you reach the ground, that is also possible with grigris and other single slot devices. Tie a knot with a bight on the rope near the middle part, and either put the other strand of the rope around the tree and through the bight, or clip a locking carabiner through the bight and around the other strand of the rope. Descend with the belay device on the strand of rope that goes through the bight/carabiner, and then pull the other strand to get the rope down.
Always stoked to see you put out a new video. Much appreciated.
The quality of this content is incredible! I learn so much every single video, genuinely thank you!
Man just a few days ago I was looking through your channel to see if you'd already made a video about different belay devices, and now here it is! You read my mind. Thanks for all the great education about climbing safety!
Glad to see this episode back up. Great information.
Your videos are the most thorough, clear, and concise on all of RUclips. Well done and much appreciated 👍
Thank you for all the time and effort you are putting into the belay masterclass series!
All makes good sense,thank you for the effort you’ve obviously put in.
best video I have seen so far. Thank you
Your Belay Masterclass videos have been some of the clearest, thorough, and easy to follow I've seen on the topics you've covered so far. Thank you so much for making these! I imagine you might already be planning this, but I really hope you do a masterclass video on anchor building-covering the various sport anchor situations that climbers encounter when building a top rope anchor (just two bolts, connected with a chain, parallel vs diagonally aligned bolts, what if there's a rappel ring, etc.). Keep up the amazing work!
Love this series! So well made and informative. I used this series as a supplement when I was learning top-rope climbing!
These videos are incredible. Really helpful for lead newbies. Keep em coming Ben!
Yes please! A comparison video would greatly add immense value to the classes :D
Not only are your videos very informative for me, but they are entertaining also!! Keep them coming.
This is an absolutely excellent series of videos. Very enlightening - many thanks.
Thank you for this amazing masterclass!
Dude. Your videos are SO helpful and digestible. You're killing it!
Amazing video as always, I'm used several of the devices and still learned a lot!
Huge video!!! really interesting even for experiment climber... I didn't know the PBUS technic ! thanks a lot for this masterclass 👍
That was a really in depth video. Liked it a lot and share it with beginners and advanced belayers as well. Thanks a lot for your work, thats worth it.
That was awesome, thanks for taking the time. I love this kind of stuff.
I can really see these videos being used as supplemental material in climbing courses. Fantastic video, thank you.
Thank you so much for yet another amazingly informational video! Will recommend to all my climbing buddies.
Thanks for doing these man, more people will be able to climb safely because you did this.
Sometimes i use another method to take slack in a toprope scenario: My brake hand stays on the rope, my other hand grabs the rope under the belaying device and then my brake hand slides to my other hand. I'm a climbing instructor in the Netherlands and i recommend your channel to all my students! Thanks for taking the time to make these video's!
This is also the technique I got taught in the Netherlands and still use.
This is technique what you learn in Finland!
Here is a video about the belay technique that is being taught (also) in Finland (ruclips.net/video/muVFR1GyBOs/видео.html). Wondering why it is not more commonly used elsewhere. Was hoping this technique would be represented in Ben's video. Thanks for the great video anyways!
Here is a video about the belay technique that is being taught (also) in Finland (ruclips.net/video/muVFR1GyBOs/видео.html). Wondering why it is not more commonly used elsewhere. Was hoping this technique would be represented in Ben's video. Thanks for the great video anyways!
Welke hal?
I searched for the episode you mentioned at 24:14 and didn't found it in your videos but after that I've realized that the current episode is really fresh, only 3 days old.
Looking forward for the next episode with that awesome looking belayers, or belayerins 🤔
Your videos always teach me more than I expected. So many useful tips. Thanks very much 😀 👍
Thank you for making videos. You are an excellent teacher. Keep it up!
Your videos are very engaging and informative. Thank you.
I've climbed for years and still learn so much from your videos. Thank you. God bless
I love these videos. seriously, you explain the why that my mechanical mind craves.
Your videos worth a lot more than all the climbing courses I’ve taken… huge thank and I hope this channel will continue!
I'm glad that you explained hand-over-hand and covered the things to be careful of instead of just saying that it should be avoided. In three years of climbing everyone just says "don't do that" and moves on
Thank you for making awesome educational content and being such a great teacher!
I'm currently working with a couple of friends to teach them lead and send your videos to them to watch to get an even better understanding so thank you for all your work!
Your instruction videos are the best, thanks for sharing.😀
This channel has been so useful me I'm stoked to be able to learn extra on top of my other training without having to pay an arm and a leg
I started working at a sport climbing gym a couple months ago, these vids have been a great resource for helping out our members!
Very good and useful video for climbing and emergency survival situations.....!
Been using a Black Diamond ATC Pilot for the last year or so and I absolutely love it.
I taught climbing 20yrs ago and learned how to climb in Southern Cali from classic old schoolers like Bob Kamps. You did an EXCELLENT job in this video! Wonderful refresher for me! I agree with everything you said brother! Aloha from Colorado!
Well done for this remaster of the belay device video 👍🏼 it’s much more thorough and it shows you’ve done lots of research. Kudos brother 💕
Thanks à thousand times, your work is inspiring
It is nice to find all this in one place. Thanks! I think a comparison of auto tubers with regards to rope drag etc would be very useful to many beginners trying to pick their first / second device. For me Jul 2 wins hands down for top rope and lead, while I am still trying to get to like giga.
Been indoor climbing for 10+ years. Best video and explaination technique for belaying.. subbed.
I would definitively love an in depth and objective review of the benefits and drawbacks of the various devices
Man, great video! Turned the bell on for the first time! Can't wait fot the belay device comparison (interested in the assisted tubular devices primarily due to being left handed) and the social experiment!
interesting, thanks for the info. When I learned belaying, there were only figure of eights, and stitchplates. It's interesting to see all the newer equipment. I learned hand-over-hand, so it is nice to see it is still used.
Several gems of info in this video - even for experienced climbers !
New Subscriber. Love all your video's very great details. Thank you. Keep up the great stuff. And keep safe
The proper way to attach a belay device section at 13:20 is also important because it helps make sure that you attach it to your harness correctly every time. The folks who try to manipulate carabiner, device, and rope hanging out in space in front of them are also the folks who swap the climber and belay strands in the device most often, for example.
I don’t even climb and this guy makes it interesting.. he could be talking about anything and I’d watch… great energy !! You got it
Super helpful. I learned Slip Slap Slide from some old dudes teaching a community college course back in 2004, and I used it for a long time with tube style devices. Only when I went back to school and took another climbing class in 2015 did someone teach me PBUS. The instructor wasn't that put off by Slip Slap Slide, he'd seen it used for a long time, but he asked me to use PBUS because it was "better". I didn't really get a satisfactory answer on why it was better until now. Thanks!
Excellent videos! Super informative with a bit of humour thrown in. I just subscribed
thanks for the masterclass, awesome content!
Dude, that was an amazing video. I didn't think I would watch everything but I did - and as a beginner climber, I thank you for the ton of lessons learnt. Subbed, obv.
I was wondering when the belaying video was going to be back up! Excellent!! Thx.
Fabulous as always
Thanks for this great video! One thing (I might have missed in the video): If you need to take in a lot of slack fast, just take a few steps back. That is if possible, doesn't apply to multi-pitch for obvious reasons. Walking back two meters might take in a lot more slack than you're able to take in otherwise!
Yup, great trick! Works both ways too: move forward to give that extra foot of slack! 👍
Backing up on a multi will take up slack fast too. It's just a bit harder to give the slack back afterward.
Wow 😎welcome back 🤙🏻 thank you for the information
Would absolutely like to see a video of a breakdown of the pros and cons of different devices :)
Great video, thanks!
Thank you soooooo much for making this amazing video!!!
Your videos are so clear, so thorough, and so entertaining! I just had to support you on Patreon!
Dude thank you so much!
I appreciate your videos with the detailed risks that need to be considered and mitigated. Your style is entertaining and of real value to a newly like myself. Thanks.
I appreciate that!
I would definitely appreciate a buyer's guide, especially as a starting climber who mostly wants to get practicing indoors as safely as possible
Thanks for these’s videos, the content is super helpful. I’d deffo be down for a device comparison.
Yes please , a video about comparing the devices would be great . Please 🙏
Really informative and well made video. 👍
Excellent guide!
I would trust my life climbing with you. Excellent video and education.
Спасибо большое, очень полезное видео. Всё по полочкам разложили.
Seriously, great job! Thanksss 👍👍
Thank you so much! It's very useful
Dude! The sound affect for #2 had me rolling throughout the entire video.
thank you so much for this. I've been climbing in the gym with my university group with a teacher, but I had no idea how much of the information I am missing out
Excellent work, again!
That knot tying at 17:22 was so incredibly smooth!
Check the episode on Knots ;) You'll love it :)
Thank you great video and i learn a lot from u 🙏
Hey man, love your videos, tons of useful information, really appreciate it.
One thing I noticed that you say about the gri-gri for multipitch security: You can add even a bit more of security if you turn your carabiner the other way (like for a southpaw), then you can still have the device in contact with the carabiner gate and open the side to put the rope and when you are to close it, you don't need to fully separate the gri-gri from the carabiner.
Note: I'm waiting for the video about how to leave the route without using a maillon carabiner to rappel out.
Cheers !!!
I like your Videos. Interesting and good to understand. Perfekt for beginner but also for All interested climbers. Thanks for that!!!
hello, your episodes are very clear, I often suggest them to my students, if I may, the systematic use of belaying gloves changes lives and can save some...
Great job on the HoH, PBUS, Tunnel. Having climbed for decades and in many parts of the world, it's always annoying when people tell me I belay wrong, while I am doing things by the book. It's good to know, and the discussion here confirms, this is a rabbit hole and people will often thing the method they been taught is THE method. I would be interested in learning more about the (dis)advantages of different acceptable methods.
New climber, this was super informative! Thank you! 🤘
I was waiting for this episode!
everything that needed to be answered and more! thx :)
Been waiting for this!!!
Very well explained.(With a good english accent understandable by a frenchy like me !).
Good job.
Thank you very much.
Thanks! It was very useful.
very interesting and useful material, thanks!
One thing I wish I knew before I bought my ATC, is the difference between the regular and guide versions. Ability to indirect belay your climbing partner during multi-pitch is well worth the extra cost of the guide, but at this point, I'm not sure I want to rebuy it.
Edit: BTW, thank you for these videos. They are excellent! You have done a great service to the climbing community with these.
That is a great video! Very well explained,, thorough but not boring at all, and useful. It must have taken quite some work to make it. I subscribed inmediately. Thank you so much!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very good video. Thank you
Thank you for your videos! I‘m a beginner who only ever used a grigri and I always wondered how these other devices worked. Keep up the great work! I‘m looking forward to your future videos❤
The trainer world is split in two main groups here: One part say "let's all give them assisted devices from the get go. It's safer". The other part basically says "give them a tuber and let them feel the responsibility (because of rule #2) before handing them assisted devices". In optimal cases I tend to be on the second part.
@@chaosengine4597 I get that! The gym in my city seems to be on the first side, but i feel like they are relying to much on the devices assistance. The training wasn't too good and i already saw some other beginners doing some seriously dangerous stuff. I'm glad i found this channel to learn about the perks and limitations of the grigri and so much more. Rule #2 is pretty embedded in my brain by now.
I agree, I think everyone should learn toprope with a tube and practice with it for a while before upgrading to assisted! If you ever go on a multipitch, you'll need to have a good feel for the method, and it teaches you very strictly about the brake hand! After years with the grigri I find my brake hand often doesn't stay down when my climber has a big fall, because it doesn't "need" to... And I worry that will lead to bad habits!
Thank you for this video. I agree with most things you said and showed in this video.
In our climbing gym only assisted devices are allowed and we therefore teach the tunneling method combined with the PBUS technique (if at one point there is too much lack to take in comfortably with the first technique).
The thing I criticize is how far up you take your break hand while belaying. It's not necessarry and makes it more dangerous. If you push the upper rope to the front instead of pulling it down you can easily pull it out to the front (both of the ropes parallel). This even works with assisted belaying devices. As well as reversed for giving out slack with assisted belaying devices. If you pull the rope out to the front, instead of up they don't lock (but they still would if the climber fell in this moment, because the break hand always stays low enough).
You didn't mention the Giga Juul which I love for multipitch climbing as it allows me to use it as an assisted device for lead climbing and switch to a normal tuber to minimize friction when belaying from above or when rappelling.
And in my opinion it's absulutely necessery to know how to belay with a knot (I don't know how this is called in english...) when one goes multipitch climbing (for emergencies).
Much love from a climbing instructor from Swizerland! I always recommend your videos to my students :)
Thank You HardIsEasy. Your video are very top class. 👍👍👍😀 (...really MasterClass !!!)