Tommy doesn’t use this the way it’s intended
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- Опубликовано: 2 фев 2025
- Tommy Caldwell sometimes uses the Edelrid Pinch out of spec, so we tested it for him. Slow pull, drop tests and rub tests with footage in Patagonia, Tahoe, Yosemite, Index, Darrington, and our lab. Phil from Edelrid, Brent from Avant, Mark from Sway Mechanika, and Bobby Hutton, all show up in this video. TLDR: the Pinch feeds smoother and sits closer to the body than the grigri.
PRE-ORDER AND GET FREE BELAY GLOVES: We sold out after posting our video with Tommy. We have placed an order of 100 Pinches with Edelrid and if you are willing to wait until we get them, we'll include a free pair of CTW Gloves. They are my favorite belay gloves hownot2.com/pr...
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PRE-ORDER AND GET FREE BELAY GLOVES: We sold out after posting this video. We have placed an order of 100 Pinches with Edelrid and if you are willing to wait until we get them, we'll include a free pair of CTW Gloves. My favorite belay gloves. hownot2.com/products/pinch
best climbing gear video on youtube in a long time. the length, detail, and entertainment value are on a whole different level. the edelrid folks and tommy seem awesome and very innovative. cannot wait to see more videos with tommy caldwell on more edelrid products like the rap line from this video or the steel insert carabiner in one of your rub master shorts.
Tommy is the perfect guest for this channel
Because Tommy Caldwell climbs with the edelrid 6mm and the tests are going to show its super good enough. Get ready Ryan! This will become the hottest selling item in your store! And is all your going to see in Yosemite one day. The power of RUclips is amazing!!!
oh boy! lol
@@HowNOT2 you won't get so many repeat customer sales with that so ride those initial sales while you can
Thanks for giving us so much value Ryan. It really does help to know more about what our gear can and cannot do, and how. Have a great 2025 brother. Hope you go from strength to strength. From all your Australian followers, thanks!! 🙏
Just copped the Tommy Caldwell Edelrid 70m rope from the HowNOT2 store. No joke the BEST deal I could find across the web on ANY rope of similar quality. Keep up the great work!
Am a climbing instructor, have 2 weekly Kids-groups, I gave the older ones my pinch and they really enjoyed it. Felt apparently better to use than the grigri+ they are normally supposed to use. Actually told them nothing on how to load it, came just natural I suppose;)
ありがとうございます！
Yoo i love the honesty even having a climbing legend in the vid. Good shit Ryan!
First device of its kind that is (relatively) left hander friendly. If you're a lefty, that makes it a hell of a lot better than "2%".
1:54 classic pro climber belay right there :D (I'm sure Tommy knows more than I do, it's just funny watching the pros break the rules)
My first belay device, as I am a complete beginner in mountaineering. But I absolutely do not regret that I bought it. I used it in different situations (often just rappelling) or climbing up the rope with the help of a hand cruiser and a carabiner axiom carabiner and a foot loop. But also for belaying another person.
Super fun)
There is a lot to say. But most importantly: thanks Ryan for all the hard work, it is a beautiful video, happy new year!!
We’d like to clarify an important point for the viewers:
The PINCH tested in this video was an early sample that did not yet include the EN 12841 certification. This certification was intentionally added to subsequent production batches, as the design was slightly refined to meet this standards. All devices with the corresponding marking of EN 12841 do also comply with the required 12 kN minimum breaking strength. The marking on the device simply indicates which standard the device complies with, as it should.
We’ve also discussed this with Ryan and appreciate his dedication to testing gear, though we did advise him that this sample was not representative of the final certified product. We’re happy to address any further viewer questions-feel free to leave a comment below! 😊
Thank you, that update (and upgrade) is much appreciated! Did the previous version ever make it to market - i.e. is there any chance of picking one up without the new certification from a reseller?
@@ambrus7686 The very first batch delivered until early Q3 2024 did not have the EN 12841 certification. This was clearly indicated on the packaging, and the device itself did not have the EN 12841 marking inside.
If you were to order a PINCH now, rest assured that it would include the EN 12841 certification. Let us know if you have any further questions! 😊
@@ambrus7686 To check if your Pinch is EN 12841 certified: flick open your Pinch, read what is printed inside the device, on the plate with the integrated opening push button. Ryan's device that broke at 8.3kN is written "UIAA Lucky you! This is #171". My device is written "UIAA EN 12841:2006/c 120kg diam 10,0 mm - 10,5 mm"
@ got it thanks. I've ordered one online and have my fingers crossed it's not old stock. I'll report back.
@ I don’t think you can buy the old stock unless you go second hand! Yes let us know what you get!
This was an amazing conversation!
This was a good one, Ryan & Team❤
Awesome video! This adds a cool bit of backstory to Tommy’s most recent movie! If anyone hasn’t seen it yet, the devils climb is a great watch. 🔥🤙
Tommy is a madman!!
Thx for this awesome indepth video. Tommy is such a rad guy. I use the pinch now for 9 months and love it. Direct attachment makes all the difference. It is so easy do feed slack and belay with. Plus the style and color is great. 90degree rotation is a big plus climbing multipitch with belay from anchor.
Thank you for your feedback!
This is so sick wow! Love your channel 😍
You should nerd out with Daniel, Head of Development at Edelrid. That would be a super nice video!
We agree. 😉
Ryan: So psyched to see that you've arrived at this point with your channel. Congrats. I couldn't help but think of the scene from the CUDL video. When you and Tommy are talking about "belaying" while simul climbing, I just saw in my head the CUDL scene when Alex says, "It's not like Tommy's not, unsketchy."
Always 10/10 videos!
I generally clip my device (not this one ) to the center point of the leg loops. This makes pushing down and holding/locking down even easier. A Munter hitch costs squat and is also pretty good for throwing out slack and locking off.
When I have no rope in the system(or tons of slack in a safe area), my GriGri always swings down and smacks me in the balls, so I have to pay attention to that. With this being shorter(with direct attachment), it looks like I wouldn't really have to worry about that anymore.
I have been top rope soloing and lead rope soloing using a micro traction and the edelrid 6 mm rope as soon as it came out on the market. I have most certainly taken falls on it toddler the only time that I had a problem was when I was top rope solo climbing inside of the tube near Port Nuef, Quebec. I was climbing the sheet that was attached to the wall but there was so much water pouring down that my rope became super iced up so much that the micro traction did not grab, I had to grab the rope tail and pull it up in front of me, I did have to retire that rope but that fall was probably 20 ft and tore into the sheath, but not the aramid core.
Rock on Tommy!
Great video as always! 👍👍
Thanks!
I’ve been an avid climber for 47 years, along with being a gear slut
I’ve used most every belay device out there, my current favorite is the Click-Up Plus
Bought a Neox and a Pinch last year
Like them both, but the Pinch is really special! Personally I think it is quite a bit better than the Gri Gri than 2%! I’d say more like 25% better….if not more!
It definitely feeds smoother and I love the straight-line rappel, and of course having the device closer to my body.
Having said all that I still slightly prefer the Click-Up Plus. But the Pinch is awesome and in my mind clearly superior to the GriGri!
Thank you for your feedback!
I'm a lover of thin ropes (to a point of scaring people). Hoever, the "dynamic" capacity of the edelrid 6mm rope depends on the aramid sheath component failing. I'm curious what a second fall would give for force. I suspect nylon dynamic ropes may also partly fail every time there is a big impulse. These data are likely buried in the uiaa test results, since they keep a record of force(t).
0:40 immediately asking the question that has been on my mind!
Any idea how well it would work with snowy ropes compared to the Gri? The teeth on the front seem like they could clean snow and ice off the rope better.
Thank you for the video. Tommy is a huge inspiration of mine
What climb were you in the portal edge on at 25:00 in Yosemite?
@00:49, thanks for the disclosure.
Hopefully petzl could pay you equally to compare the pinch and the grigri.
2% better isn't enough for me to switch from Grigri, but if the pinch works well for belaying a leader off the anchor(fixed point belay) I would consider that a major upgrade from the grigri.
How about some testing of factor 2 lead falls with fixed point belay using the pinch?
Great video and tests! I just got one of these for Christmas and this makes me feel pretty good about using it.
I’m curious where the pinch would break if shackled with a belay loop rather than a carabiner and rotated as it would be on a harness. I’m also curious if it will wear my belay loop faster than a traditional device with a rounded carabiner.
Is Tommy legally banned from saying the word "grigri"?
I think as a sponsored athlete you just usually don't call out competitor companies by name (with either good or bad opinions) to keep your life easy with your sponsor, and not mess up projects with athletes sponsored by other companies... Although he does say grigri around 15:11 lol 👍
The best device for giving slack I've tried was, ironically, a springless one: the Trango Cinch; also, probably the lightest and the least beginner-friendly.
I don't know why i watch all these gear videos. The vids are great, I just haven't climbed anything in like 20yrs.
🙈 same here. I think is tume for a real test now.
Im old school atc and never got a gri gri. I am getting a pinch. This thing is so freaking cool and it actually got me to let go of my old man atc vibes.
If the panic mode kicks in, you don't have to bring the lever back to re-engage, but you can just pull it even more and it'll override the panic mode temporarily, which I think is the best of both worlds
Got my pinch and a 60m 9.8 sterling for Black Friday 💪💪
Hell yeah! 🙌
Amazing video! And love my Pinch…
Kind of weird though that your test had a 8kN break force while Phil at the end said it’s rated for 12kN. Different test? Different versions? Not like I’m ever going to put that much force on it, but curious!
What about comparing to Neox?
that rub master 5000 is a super cool rig!
That is badass to have the device right on your belay loop...
We agree. 😉
"Just ask cavers" 😂 OMG! So true!
Great video but all I really want to know is where hell did TC get that jacket? I would LOVE to have one like that but I don't see it for sale on their website!
Omg, the belaying at 1:54.
Ha yeah old skool...😮
this old school/euro way of belaying by pros is why we still have ppl think that's the norm lol
@@Howwhen_IQof9 agree
Looks fine. He has caught tens of thousands of falls this way. Certainly not in the manual, but most experienced climbers belay that way.
@@twinmike1 it is in the manual, both pinch and grigri has a picture that says don't do it that way lol
@14:56 that smiley face got me :D
Good stuff!
That Tommy guy seems to have a lot of experience:).
16:36 LOL- YES! Caver representation! 🦇🦇🦇
Cavers are rappellers too lol
10:55 GriGri and GridLock are bleh. Maybe I didn’t have it configured correctly, but Petzl’s OK/Sm’D/Bm’D or even the BD RockLock interact with the GriGri far less awkwardly.
Not having the biner on the harness would be a huge advantage for jugging with a grigri. Would certainly save a lot of jug cycles and allow you to get bigger movements.
wear on the belay loop compared to a carabiner?
All edges on the Pinch in contact with the loop are well rounded. I use it for 9 months now and don‘t see any extra wear compared to the use with a beaner.
This has already been answered by Daniel from edelrid. It's just the same, as the angles of the device on the belay loop are just as if it would be a carabiner
Very interesting to see some more testing of the 6mm Rap Line Pro. The fact it is static until loaded and then becomes dynamic sounds like it could be gimmicky
"Belaying hands free while climbing" LMAO
The experience with Pinch depends a lot on how rough the rope is. With a smooth rope I heard it's fine. My rope is pretty rough and pulling rope through the device was annoying a.f.
6:32 the skepticism here
What is the jacket TC has??
Saying 2% better might not be the best marketing phrase when it costs 9% more than a grigri haha
It's not really linear like that though. When it comes to life saving devices, plenty of people would spend 50% more for a few % edge
Edelrid's approved marketing wordings are very odd.
2% of mine and other's lives is much better than 9% of my money 😉
Damn, crazy good video
Salut les gars, avez vous testé cet appareil avec le ohm? La came monte? Merci pour votre retour.
Since these are rated as a rope access descender(EN 12841-C), we got a couple of these to mess around with on a few different rope diameters. All of our work ropes are ~11mm, so that's what I've been testing these with mostly. I noticed they work just fine with clean 11mm, but any kind of dust on the ropes (I tried one in a cement silo) makes them crazy sticky (but still somewhat useable), so that could be why they didn't want to rate them to the full 11mm, despite that being the most common rope access rope diameter. I also like them for aiding, since they clip directly to your central D-ring, but are a bit jumpy when half-weighted, which is to be expected since they have higher spring tension.
I love the Gri Gri, but hey, when mine is worn out, this may be a contender.
I figured the pinch was like the market a few years back when every company was making a different version of an ATC.
Just get a BD guide and be done with it. All the others suck. But the pinch actually has innovated.
I can understand why this is better but as someone with just an atc looking to try multipitch, it would be hard not to buy the grigri since its nore standard.
Question can you use it without a carabiner?
well i have TRIED to put a 6mm tag line in my grigri and it does NOT hold attttt alll, so it's interesting to see the test result. altho i'm now more interested in that tag line lol
Wow, how old is that red & black Mnt Hardwear puffer jacket? First one I’ve seen in a decade that actually has loft like all the old jackets did! 👍🏼
Ohhh, I might pick this guy up when I replace my grigri.
Are you still in Patagonia? I'm heading down in a few days, super stoked!
I spent a year filming this. I was there in May 2024 :)
@HowNOT2 oh! Hah! Well, I'm still stoked to be heading back down. Hitting up cochamo this time! I'm freshly stocked with gear from your store ;)
Can you test Madrock Safeguard in similar manner?
How do you like the Weebee big wall?
what harness is this you are wearing?
For repelling stiff ropes the only good option is a long frame rack.
-same for extremely muddy swollen ropes
Crossed carabiner, or French, method if you don't have a frame rack
Hello.
By watching these devices go flying, during breaking tests, I was wondering, what the breaking strengh of these so called "pins" are? "Gear fear" is a big part about it.
Carabinders hold less, when loaded towards the (...what's the word...) opening side ( e.g. maybe with HMS-carabinders). And this concerns me quite often, because I don't know enough how much less the MBS might be. You already have a video out there about cross-loading a carabinder with slings. I might get into it again for that.
Do you perhaps have any information how high these "pins" in carbinders and especially belay-devices, like a GriGri+, are rated - if they are rated as a single item by the manufacturers at all?
Eventually, it might be an interesting question for others in another clip or video?
Thank you und your videos are really great to watch.
Greetings from over the Atlantic :-) (Germany)
It seems like it wouldn't hold if you would fall with minimal to zero slack?
For belaying “hands free”: What happens if the dead end of the rope is not dangling down? For example because the coil of rope is put on top of a small boulder and the belayer is standing beside it.
Also, what happens if you’ve draped the dead end over your giant dog?
what sunglasses are you wearing?
I don't understand the benefit of using an ABD for the second climber while simul climbing. (ABD Assisted Breaking Device: GriGri, Pinch, ..). To me the way of climbing of the second climber then looks similar to Top Rope Solo. Then there would be proven better devices like e.g. Taz Lov (thick rope) or Trango Vergo (thin rope). Can someone explain why the Pinch is still the better choice compared to a Taz Lov/Trango Vergo anyway? Thx.
The belay device is for the follower "belaying" (hands free) the leader, not for the leader to act as a body anchor for a "top rope soloing" follower. More accurately you are just managing the slack between the two climbers, though, and not planning for the leader to fall either.
@@sakaricajanus90 thx for your answer, but that was not what I wanted to know.
My point was an ABD seems not to be the best available device for the following climber to manage slack/belay hands free. the follower is attached to a straight rope like in a Tope Rope Solo situation. An ABD forces the rope to do some turns in the device. that causes a lot of friction, so an ABD is not self-feeding.
Have a look at Caldwell/Honnold simul climb the Nose (ruclips.net/video/XdOzbM_7GMI/видео.html).
They are not climbing in sync, so there has to be a lot of slack management:
- taking slack (second climber is catching up - very similar to TRS, why not using a device that works better than an ABD?)
- giving slack ( leader is climbing faster) (don't know how it is done exactly, but I assume it would be easier if the leader is using a cache loop system to give slack himself when needed (like a Lead Rope Solo climber would do).
@@frankweichert2409 I see, that makes sense! I've actually tried belaying with a Taz Lov3, and it is very hard to give slack through it (like way harder than a Grigri). I wouldn't even call it an usable belay device for normal belaying, so maybe it is that.
@@sakaricajanus90Tommy Caldwell seems never to belay the regular way. No doubt the GriGri is the better device for regular belaying.
The Taz Lov is a bit bulky and it not optinized for belaying. Even I'd say it is possible to belay with the Taz Lov as well. See the instructions how to belay with a Vergo. You can do it almost the same way with the Lov: Left hand is pulling the rope. right hand is holding the device tilted sideways AND controls the rope at break hand side. I have no doubt Tommy Caldwell knows what he is doing, even I don't understand their complete rope management :-) An Inspiring video anyway.
@@sakaricajanus90 oh man, there is an easy answer. Tommy Caldwell is using a 6mm Edelrid Rap Line. Just made a test: A 6mm rope feeds like hell with the Pinch in any orientation for both Top Rope Solo and Lead Rope Solo. But using a Rap Line for leading? They will at least have to add a screamer at the anchor. I am not so sure if that is sufficient in all situations. So just "never fall".
Ich wollte einen " Smart " von Mammut kaufen, in Düsseldorf, im Hin und weg, dort wurde mir gesagt, das sie keine Kletterausrüstung von Mammut mehr verkaufen, weil Mammut die Produktion von der Schweiz nach China verlagert haben.
Gut so!
Hab dann Edelrid gekauft, Made in Germany.
😊
Just casually in Patagonia
BTS each week in our emails hownot2.com/sign-up
Any chance you'll be carrying arborist equipment in the future?
@@LoreTunderinyes but not until I can do it well
Were you in washington @24:03? Was that mark hannah?
Yes, and I live in WA.
@HowNOT2 I love mark!! It was great seeing you get out at that crag! It's such a beautiful place with awesome slab! Have you been climbing much out there? It's my favorite spot in the pnw. I haven't been to Yosemite/touleme yet but people say that I'll love it. Enjoy the slab!
Its weird that it broke at 8kn, but edelrid says it didn't pass the 11mm rope strength test cause it cut the rope, and describe the test in the same way is test it here.
How is edelrid breaking a 11mm rope with this device in the same way?
jhey, rock exotica yes or not? thanks
What hooded shirt do you have on you at 0:05 ?
It's the outdoor research echo hoodie
Commenting so Ryan can go do more stuff with people like Tommy! :)
Guys, does anyone know how to get Mountain Hardwear products shipped to Italy?
I wont trust them until they integrate something like a spring loaded push pin to serve the function of a "locking carabiner" as discussed at 5:20
If implemented correctly, it would still be possible to remove/install one handed, but would ensure it's far more deliberate.
I can't believe they didn't do this. They really didn't forsee people being concerned?
They could have made it feel more secure. I agree.
They could re-print the manual to include ads for Climbers’ Insurance;)
@@geometerfpv2804 it's really crazy because if you watch their marketing videos they seem to refuse to even mention the safety carabiner option even when people are saying it seems unsafe. They're also very committed to the "shouldn't open" wording, which makes it an even more baffling marketing decision.
Looks like it might be time for a change
Oh, it is.
"The cam action still works... while it is not attached to anything" uhhhh "I'm not sure how I feel about that" LOL
I would love to see some try what happens when you belay like in 1:55 and an unexpected fall happens. Especially when clipping close to the ground like here, cause I feel like the belayer would not be able to keep the climber from falling to the ground
You're right, I didn't notice he had his hand off the brake strand for the whole payout. That's not great. They need to make a version these devices for southpaws, it would be much safer.
This is what people do with the gri gri and petzl have gone a long way to educate people how this is dangerous.... of course it doesn't apply to pro climbers😅
Too true. Apparently it still has the same problem as the grigri. I wish they would take the revo and make it attached like this directly to the belay loop.
Buy from HowNOT2!!!
Dont forget this is also the only assisted belay device that will work on a fixed point belay for multi pitching. For that alone I'd say this makes it essential kit now.
It’s not the only
@@Sparky210-11 Can you tell us another?
Gri-gri and Cinch
0:45 Now I know who he reminds me of: Christoph Waltz
Falling upside down? (couse they say gri don't catch)
That lower body dummy is peak PNW. Just find a treat bit that's already the shape you need!
21:40 anyone know what jacket this is?
Reverse image search says La Sportiva Upendo
Grigri sales drop 100%
👀