Fabian Buhl had it right !
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- Опубликовано: 5 июн 2024
- This backup knots system for LRS (lead rope solo climbing) is pure genius!
WARNING : You should NOT LRS without proper training. Climbing is dangerous and Rope Solo Climbing is even MORE DANGEROUS! Be careful out there!
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I know it's hard to find a comprehensive and reliable source of information on Rope Solo Climbing. That's why I did my research, bought equipment, experimented and adopted a way to teach rope soloing. I like to refer to my complete online courses. My reasons are the following:
-It is dangerous to have partial information about security systems
-I need an income to continue my mission to teach and innovate
I would love to help you find answers to your questions! I suggest the following solutions:
-An in-person course (blissclimbing-com.translate.g...)
-An online course (blissclimbing.com/en/online-c...)
-A subscription to my Patreon (I answer on the platform) ( / blissclimbing )
I prefer to refer to complete courses. The courses should answer 99% of your questions and show you more things you haven't even thought of AND that are essential to being effective and safe! For any remaining questions, I answer every question asked by my clients and try to post everything on the hidden private Facebook groups reserved for buyers of online courses so that all buyers can benefit. I also very often add content to the courses because there is so much to say and teach on the subject AND I still learn quite often! You can always ask your questions on the “regular” public Facebook rope solo groups, but you won't get all correct answers and probably nothing complete. That's why my suggestion is to take the courses!! Looking forward to seeing you buy a course: you will be happy with your choice!!! 
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All my Grigri’s are modified 20 years ago. Same modification but not for the same reason of self belay lead climbing. In managing as many as 3 students on multi-pitch climbs as a guide we would modify the devices in the same manner to eliminate loosing the device while managing ropes at anchors. Interesting transition in hard skills and information.
11:18 the sewn part is called the bar tacks or bar-tacks. Thank you for another great and helpful video Yann.
Bar tacks is a better term!! Thanks for dropping a comment!
16:00 Another way to fix the loop length might be to use a sheet bend instead of a girth hitch to attach the sling to your tie in points. It will keep the loop size fixed and should help stop the sling from going slack (and also give a bonus “belay loop”)
Very wise! Very good idea. You will lose some length but get better function!!
Here is how if someone is interested: ruclips.net/video/7j69zI-6tw4/видео.html
Very interesting method, but I would still prefer to put the dead end into a small and light backpack. It is the same weight of rope, plus it avoids all of the issues with getting the rope snagged, rope getting in the way of climbing and rope blocking gear on harness if on a trad route.
Also, if you have the right rope with a grigri 2 and use a smaller cache loop, you can ditch the chest harness, eliminating the upside down fall issue.
But you hâve increase the risk of high-clip failure (compared to a grigri plus in TR mode). Also you start the pitch with 4kg of rope+backpack compared to 0.4kg and no backpack with cache loops.
Amazing! I'll try it soon.
Thanks Derek!
Great analysis Yann.Thanks
Thank you for leaving a note!!
Yan, maybe a more durable option to the tape would be a velcro fixed to the harness
Maybe! Try it and let me know!
I enjoy so much of your content Yann, great work! Could you give some info on the ring you use as a belay loop? Can this fully replace the sewn loop? Would the Petzl Ring Open be suitable to belay from? Any special considderations or just plug and play? Tried to find information about this without any luck. Thanks a bunch.
yes the Petzl Ring Open... Prety much plug and play. I added blue loc tite after mine got loose once. Don't drop loc tite on any nylon! Makes sense? Thanks for the love bro! I don't regret the change for ANY use!
gosh watching your setup, you were very, very thoughtful in your setup. very safety concious. is that gear loop you rigged off your hard points life safety?
Thanks! Cool idea! I’d be curious to see what happens with this soft-on-soft interaction in a few drop tests. I don’t see how it could saw on one spot, but I also don’t know how a sling (especially one that’s intentionally rigged in the same manner every time) would hold up.
Good point! Note that it probably needs to hold a single big fall. It’d damaged, one can change the sling! If the rope is damaged, that’s another story!!
Muy buen video ! Y bien explicado Gracias.
Con gusto! Gracias para el comento 🙂
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Gracias a ti y tu canal .Aprendo mucho. Una pregunta .... ¿ Cual es el mejor método de seguridad (redundancia) escalando solo con el.grigri sin arnés de pecho ? Llevo un maillot rapide delta de 8 mm de Peltz.Gracias
@@godohispano81 blissclimbing.com/en/2023/04/27/q-what-is-the-best-system-for-lead-rope-solo-climbing/
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Gracias por el enlace ! Opino lo mismo .En seguridad en solitario no hay nada seguro por lo tanto como decimos ...más vale que sobre qué te falte.Un saludo ! 💪😊
13:00 I've seen harnesses that have full 20kn strength on the gear loops, might be a good option too, although you'll loose space in the harness for more gear
Interesting! Let me know if you find the model!!
I like that the tape will rip away and leave you suspended by your tie-in point instead of a gear loop. Of course the grigri would have to have a complete failure first, which is not likely
@@PYates77 It happened! publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13200305300/Fall-on-Rock-Inadequate-Protection-Inadequate-Clothing-and-Equipment-Weather?fbclid=IwAR1loQye50n5FMGYqx57zUWzUCJZ_uJ2nfBOw1VHZ7c2ke1QxZE78i6N2k0
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing The Metolius Safe Tech harnesses have Spectra gear loops rated for 10kN, which may be what Dani is referring to. I'd be interested to hear if there others that are stronger though!
Metolius still advise against belaying/rappelling from them, unsurprisingly, but YMMV...
@@AZMReece Thanks for this information. 10kN is a good start but I would still use a dyneema sling. The sling should hold 13-14kN+ (not 22kN due to the girth hitch).
What I want to know is how does that knot binding in the GriGri effect your ability to take a whipper? Would it side load your harness & wrench your back/hips?
Great video! I am a bit confused why we are concerned with the strength of the backup knots tho - isnt their function only either to activate the grigri or, worst case scenario, to jam against it? As in, i don't understand why they have to be strong, they wont catch a fall?
The grigri can explode or detach. Not likely but high consequence. Also if the slip knot is pulled open before it hits the grigri (in an upside-down fall for example), everything might fail. Look here : publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13200305300/Fall-on-Rock-Inadequate-Protection-Inadequate-Clothing-and-Equipment-Weather?fbclid=IwAR1loQye50n5FMGYqx57zUWzUCJZ_uJ2nfBOw1VHZ7c2ke1QxZE78i6N2k0
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing appreciate the reply, Yann (:
i guess this, like so many things in climbing, is up to personal risk tolerance. For me, a grigri exploding (>15kn) or coming undone are risks i'm willing to take - but to each their own (:
Yes, I agree with you. When it comes to risk tolerance, it is always up to the climber himself to decide how much back-up is necessery! For myself, when I solo-aidclimb bigwalls like El Capitan, I use only GriGri 1 on a screw-Link an NO back-up, I am not even tied into the rope. When I get high on the pitch I usually tie knots on the dead side so I dont get back feed and drop the entire rope…
Wouldn't it be the same as carrying the rope with the safety knots inside the backpack on your back?
Similar but... Very very different! There are pros and cons to both methods...
When I started LRS I used a modified grigri and carried the rope in a backpack with tied slip knots. When the silent partner arrived I switched. Still using slip knots but no backpack. I have recently become worried about the how safe the silent partner is. I might switch back to a gri gri.
Interesting! What makes you worried about the Silent Partner?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing the mechanism is hidden. I do test SP but not always consistent when it engages. The other thing I noticed is with the grigri - a microtraxion may create enough friction in a fall to engage grigri removing the need for a knot.
@@elans2844 « not consistent » It is probably due for servicing. Not sure who can do it for you…
Oh nice, i have been doing this exact technique for the two years i have been climbing with the soloist. It makes everything so much easier.
Oh!!! Did you get the idea? Or took it from someone? Thanks for letting me know!
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing The idea came when I was climbing with regular backup knots and found it hassleful to untie them sometimes. Then the idea came to tie them around a strong chord attached to my harness, and it worked perfectly. Been climbing more/less this way ever since.
@@020nils so cool!! Come post a hello on the Facebook group!!
Maybe a late comment, but instead of the sling, would you get the same result using a Petzl Connexion Fixe strap locked with an oval maillon for example?
The harness has to allow it, but if it has adjustable strap buckles you could run the strap through the same points.
I don't know if I explained myself very good but I thought about that and looks more clean than taping it. Don't know the efficiency though.
I would love to see a video about it! You use a Connexion Fixe? This is a burly and heavy equipment! At least 355g!!! I would not use that. The Mammut Contact sling is 19g!!!
huh. Going to try this with my Metolius Safetech harness. The gear loops are rated to 7kN, so I think I should be good?
It is a backup, you know. Answering that question depends a lot on the full system you want to use and the level of safety you want to achieve to feel comfortable. Makes sense?
What’s the activation speed for grigri? Silent Partner is 3m/sec.
You should keep a breaking hand on the dead rope at all time. Or it might fail entirely. It might slip all the way to a backup knot or to your death if you have no backup. The grigri is NOT speed activated. See how it can fail here: ruclips.net/video/PPjN3oFncc8/видео.htmlsi=7xgCn0Bc3CuxeGD7
I suppose it works well in overhanging terrain. But if the rock presents lots of possibilities for the loops to block somewhere it can become a nightmare.
Absolutely! A different strategy is required in that case! But maybe you are hiking and don't need a rope? ;-) JOKE!
I need a rope for hiking
@@TheFilip330 LOL
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing😅😂
So instead of holding the bight with a half hitch maybe you could hold it with a clove? Harder to collapse and probably faster to tie your than the second method you show in the video
The clove hitch is Brent Barghan's method... Very good. Lately I have used the slip knots and have done fine for me!!
The back up knots if utilized are going to jam in belay device. They not going draw the sling tight in full tension pulling on the sling drawing the sling into the final point at the harness. Unless the belay device is able to extend to same length as the sling holding the backup knots on the harness and pull through the tape.
With your set up the belay device is locked in short so the back up knots on providing a jam against the
Device. That’s will function as a back up but your TESTING should subject the backup knots as jam not passing through the belay device in tension to the harness (or anchor point) to have real data on the knots.
The system works but your testing does not reflect how the system will function.
David K Rioux Guide, mechanic, carpenter, engineering background.
The direct pulling on the backup knot is the worst case scenario where the device releases the rope entirely or the device breaks away (like in Tom Randal’s accident on El Cap). If the knot simply jams in the device, the force on the knot will be less AND the knot will cinch more and slip less IMO. I agree with your observations.
I agree with your response.
I’m not familiar with Tom Randal’s accident. I will have to research the incident.
Ich verwende in meinem Setup einen einzigen(!) Stoppknoten*, der (wenn unbelastet ... bzw. sobald er nach Sturzbelastung nicht mehr belastet wird) in der catch loop zwischen Gri-Gri und Seilklemme problemlos verschiebbar ist. D.h., er bleibt also die ganze Zeit über im Seil!
* ... eine Art Stoppknoten
Hi, what is "live end"? Is this the end leading to climber?
No. When lead rope solo climbing, there are 2 strands (or more) coming from the climber. The live end goes to the bottom bellay anchor and the dead end if the free rope. Makes sense?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing I understand now but wouldn't call it live end. For me it is fixed part and free part of the rope. Sometimes climbing terminology is weird. Both parts could make you potentially dead, depending on how you fall.
@@leagoo52 I think this nomenclature dates back to Andy Kirkpatrick Me Myself and I book, 2014. You can call it as you like as long as people understand you!!
Anyone with even the most basic of PPE I section qualifications will look at you wrapping it all in gaffa tape and going 😬
But you're lead soloing on out of spec kit, so what difference will it make
Hahaha!!! Absolutely! One day there might be specs for TRS and LRS... Until then, we do "our best" LOL
Do you think this method is good for the Mudo too?
To a certain extent, the backup method is independent with the LRS device you choose. So in this case like in most cases, yes it is good for the Mudo too.
I know it's hard to find a comprehensive and reliable source of information on this topic. That's why I did my research, bought equipment, experimented and adopted a way to teach rope soloing. I like to refer to my complete online courses. My reasons are the following:
-It is dangerous to have partial information about security systems
-I need an income to continue my mission to teach and innovate
I would love to help you find answers to your questions! I suggest the following solutions:
-An in-person course (blissclimbing-com.translate.goog/fr/formations/?_x_tr_sl=fr&_x_tr_tl=en)
-An online course (blissclimbing.com/en/online-courses/)
-A subscription to my Patreon (I answer on the platform) (www.patreon.com/blissclimbing)
I prefer to refer to complete courses. The courses should answer 99% of your questions and show you more things you haven't even thought of AND that are essential to being effective and safe! For any remaining questions, I answer every question asked by my clients and try to post everything on the hidden private Facebook groups reserved for buyers of online courses so that all buyers can benefit. I also very often add content to the courses because there is so much to say and teach on the subject AND I still learn quite often! You can always ask your questions on the “regular” public Facebook rope solo groups, but you won't get all correct answers and probably nothing complete. That's why my suggestion is to take the courses!! Looking forward to seeing you buy a course: you will be happy with your choice!!!