- Видео 86
- Просмотров 348 713
Mountain Mullet
Австралия
Добавлен 5 сен 2022
All about the engineering, design, and performance of rock climbing safety gear, with a focus on rotary hammer performance & the mechanics of putting bolts in rock.
This is a companion channel to Boltah Downunder, where I mostly test drills and shit.
I'm an Aussie climber who's been almost exclusively focused on route development for over a decade. I may not climb hard any more, but I climb lots, and explore lots, and fuck around even more.
Find more rotary hammer drill science than you ever wanted here at Boltah Downunder:
ruclips.net/channel/UC88tUnLr3E7MqpKX344tVEA
This is a companion channel to Boltah Downunder, where I mostly test drills and shit.
I'm an Aussie climber who's been almost exclusively focused on route development for over a decade. I may not climb hard any more, but I climb lots, and explore lots, and fuck around even more.
Find more rotary hammer drill science than you ever wanted here at Boltah Downunder:
ruclips.net/channel/UC88tUnLr3E7MqpKX344tVEA
Hardware store carabiners vs climbing gear
There are many carabiners/snap hooks available from stores, but how strong are the different styles compared to proper climbing carabiners?
Here I perform tension break tests on a variety of snap hooks & carabiners in different materials and styles. Is stainless steel stronger than regular steel? do carabiners need to be closed? can i get safe carabiners from a hardware store? how much can i life with an 8mm snap hook?what's the difference between a climbing carabiner and a regular one?
Well i try to answer all thing and more in this vid!
Use BOLTAH to get 10% off at hownot2.store and it supports what I'm doing, as well as helping climbers all over get better hardware on their walls.
For in-d...
Here I perform tension break tests on a variety of snap hooks & carabiners in different materials and styles. Is stainless steel stronger than regular steel? do carabiners need to be closed? can i get safe carabiners from a hardware store? how much can i life with an 8mm snap hook?what's the difference between a climbing carabiner and a regular one?
Well i try to answer all thing and more in this vid!
Use BOLTAH to get 10% off at hownot2.store and it supports what I'm doing, as well as helping climbers all over get better hardware on their walls.
For in-d...
Просмотров: 2 092
Видео
New Milwaukee M12 2508: good for rock bolting? How many holes?
Просмотров 5 тыс.14 дней назад
Milwaukee has FINALLY released a new M12 SDS rotary hammer, the 2508. Here i compare it to the trusty M12 2416/M12CH which has been a handy tool for rock climb development for about a decade now. Here I compare the 2416 vs 2508, in drilling speed and also runtime. Plus, chipping! Is the new Milwaukee 2508 the best ever rock bolting drill? Lets' find out! Want cheap Diablo SDS drill bits? Use BO...
Vevor climbing rope set: dodgy as
Просмотров 2,4 тыс.21 день назад
For in-depth rotary hammer stuff, check out my other channel, Boltah Downunder: ruclips.net/channel/UC88tUnLr3E7MqpKX344tVEA I’m completely self-funded and receive no freebies or kickbacks from tool companies. I’m just a guy who wants to know how these tools perform, and figure you do too. You can chip in here, it'll be hugely appreciated: paypal.me/BoltahDownunder?country.x=AU&locale.x=en_AU w...
Old rebolted anchor: How dodgy was it?
Просмотров 70828 дней назад
Rebolting old routes is usually a thankless task despite being so important to keep our climbs safe. I've collected a bunch of old booty after rebolts and will be pull testing it to promote rebolting and safe hardware. Support your local rebolting funds! Use BOLTAH to get 10% off your first order at hownot2.store and it supports what I'm doing, as well as helping climbers all over the world get...
Lappas corkscrew: Bolting's biggest innovation
Просмотров 2 тыс.Месяц назад
Lappas corkscrew: Bolting's biggest innovation
Best glue for bolting? I tested lots!
Просмотров 4542 месяца назад
Best glue for bolting? I tested lots!
How strong are glued-on climbing holds? [Is epoxy strong enough]
Просмотров 8243 месяца назад
How strong are glued-on climbing holds? [Is epoxy strong enough]
That ain't supposed to happen! Climbing bolt failure
Просмотров 4564 месяца назад
That ain't supposed to happen! Climbing bolt failure
How to remove flush head sleeve bolts (3 ways)
Просмотров 7675 месяцев назад
How to remove flush head sleeve bolts (3 ways)
Drill bits for rock: Bosch Expert vs no-name
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.6 месяцев назад
Drill bits for rock: Bosch Expert vs no-name
Xinda quickdraws: are they safe, or YGD?
Просмотров 5176 месяцев назад
Xinda quickdraws: are they safe, or YGD?
Epoxy putty: Can you use it for anchoring bolts?
Просмотров 6217 месяцев назад
Epoxy putty: Can you use it for anchoring bolts?
Xinda 16kN carabiners: are they for climbing?
Просмотров 7998 месяцев назад
Xinda 16kN carabiners: are they for climbing?
Building a budget tension pull tester rig!
Просмотров 2028 месяцев назад
Building a budget tension pull tester rig!
Petzl Pulse ripoff: No name removable bolts from Chinese shopping website
Просмотров 2,8 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Petzl Pulse ripoff: No name removable bolts from Chinese shopping website
Edelrid Ohm: (large) man's best friend
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.10 месяцев назад
Edelrid Ohm: (large) man's best friend
Bosch GBH18V 22 any good for drilling rock? Vs GBH 18V-21
Просмотров 21 тыс.11 месяцев назад
Bosch GBH18V 22 any good for drilling rock? Vs GBH 18V-21
EN959: what does it mean for bolting rock climbs?
Просмотров 304Год назад
EN959: what does it mean for bolting rock climbs?
Milwaukee M18BH/2612: Any good for bolting rock? (vs M12CH/2416)
Просмотров 846Год назад
Milwaukee M18BH/2612: Any good for bolting rock? (vs M12CH/2416)
Construction bolts in climbing? Hobson Tygabolt test + strength theory
Просмотров 426Год назад
Construction bolts in climbing? Hobson Tygabolt test strength theory
Expansion bolts: Wedge bolt vs Sleeve bolt [Climbing bolt basics]
Просмотров 16 тыс.Год назад
Expansion bolts: Wedge bolt vs Sleeve bolt [Climbing bolt basics]
Can you drill limestone without a rotary hammer drill?
Просмотров 3,5 тыс.Год назад
Can you drill limestone without a rotary hammer drill?
Trying out the Fixe anchor configurator
Просмотров 156Год назад
Trying out the Fixe anchor configurator
Any interest in testing some removable bolt hangers ? I'll donate some PFH hangers and try to source some others.
Yeah totally. I'm trying to do some carrot testing so it'll definitely come in handy. Wanna email mountainmullet55 at gmail dot com and we can discuss?
Equivalent of >600kg peak is quite impressive for a cheap zinc plated bunno's special I now know my keys are safe
Test paraglider carabiners!
300 pounds ~= 136 kg
So great to find an Aussie reviewer!
Cheers mate!
what’s the point I’m curious
Interesting, just subscribed! Did it state the intended use on the package?
Thanks! Nope, just said 'snap hook 10mm carbon steel'. I assume it's for the generic snap-hook kinda market of holding down tarps or whatever but they thought this design looked a bit cooler than the regular kind?
I love this video, to see the tests before my eyes! As a designer and engineer I have to say something though. To say that CE "doesn't carry that much weight" because it is self reported is a bit weird and wrong in my opinion. If the designers have done their job correctly they've designed it to meet applicable product and safety standards and have all documentation proving it. It is of course a huge liability for the company to CE mark without doing the work and documenting it. Fake markings and certifications is of course another thing, doesn't matterif it's a CE or a NASA marking :) I do not know anything about the specific ISO product or safety standards for climbing gear so a can't be more specific. I have worked with design of lifting equipment though. CE marking, depending on the complexity of the product or system, can drive a hell of a lot of work for the whole product design team and is vital to any company in order to be Regulation Compliant and thus being allowed to sell their products on European market.
Hi great info thanks! What I mean there is, CE is not as important as activity-specific compliance. Like for a climbing carabiner the best thing to have is EN 12275 or UIAA 121 which are specific for climbing carabiners. www.theuiaa.org/documents/safety-standards/Pictorial_UIAA121%20Connectors.pdf In my mind, a CE mark is a sign that the manufacturer is doing things right in a more general way, kinda like ISO900. It's definitely much better than something without any compliance, as it shows they're keeping records, have traceability etc. But it's not as strong a mark as say, the UIAA mark on climbing gear. Does that sound fair? I've never worked on a CE marked product myself so I'm keen to hear about the process from someone who has
Somewhat disagree. In the end, it's just a promise by the manufacturer just like any other marking, and how useful that is depends on who is making the promise. Penalties are useless if it is branded by a typical "spin up a new one every week" company in a country that won't enforce penalties.
Thanks for putting this video together! I use this static rope for pulling trees (not climbing) so they fall in the direction I need them too while hooked up to a hitch on my truck. They have performed really well so far. I tie double figure eights because I don't want the knots to weld (single bowlines, eights, and alpine butterflys all have become "untieable" when loaded by my winch). I have noticed some sheath slippage in the ends, but otherwise no other issues. I was able to pull some 20 meter oaks in the direction I needed safely. I would never use these for lifeload style application, but for pulling/moving material I think they are great. I would never use the sketchy asf carabiner. I don't know why they include those. As a climber (in the US) I only use brands I recognize for climbing and am mostly a black diamond and/or petzl gear person. I agree that we shouldn't use this rope for climbing or any other lifeload application. If you get spare time I'd love to see how this rope fails with a double figure eight, a single bowline, and a double bowline as these are the knots I use for moving/guiding trees to fall where I'd like them too.
Note the main purpose of hardware store ones ive found were to carry tools. all of them had abput 150lb weight limits which would be light for a person... but good for something like a tool bag you wanted to hoist up or attach to a lift
I have a number of camp nano 22's for just every day stuff(like attaching stuff to a backpack etc). They are much lighter and higher quality than the cheap steel ones. And honestly not that expensive. I don't really need the strength, but the lower weight and the very reliable action of the gate really sell it for me.
Sure why not? I think I got mine in packs of 6 for about 36 bucks, so not much more expensive than much weaker ones. Plus you can use them for like emergency descent or whatever
Cool vid! The black one I'd say failed much earlier, as it bent in a way where you wouldn't reuse it. If you were to use it in a dynamic way, the rope in it would likely bounce out of the 'biner and get let go. Stainless steel gear for climbing is a thing, as it can be tinier than aluminum, even if heavier. It seems to chew through rope faster, though, and rope ain't cheap.
U seem to forget to lock it
it was locked, you can see in the full video. It's just the locking barrel sucks!
Great video. I’ve been using 10mm PS snap hooks for a couple routes, so it was nice to know what I’m working with.
I've got some 10mm ones, can test this week if you're interested!
That would be great! Thanks for your hard work. I should probably switch them out for stainless captive eye carabiners now that they’re so affordable.
Fun testing and good tidbits of info. Thanks Matt!
Cheers mate! Can't believe how long this thing turned out, but in the end I figured I'm never going to explain what SWL means ever again so may as well go for detail
It's so interesting how much design affects strength. A 8mm stainless steel quicklink will break at like 30-40kN, that carabiner is quite far from what the material is capable of.
For sure! Most stainless things (quick links, bolts) I've tested have come out even stronger than expected due to work hardening I think. Here the SS snaphook broke over 9kN and that was actually the tiny gate pin that sheared off! It's like 1mm thick
Design plays a huge role. We've had stainless steel QLs made from 8mm rod stock from one seller/factory fail at like mid-20s, whereas others break at almost 70kN. There can also be a large range with the exact same QL if tolerances aren't as tight.
Yeah and on top of material quality, the main thing is cross-sectional area. These snap hooks have small areas of steel holding the load at the nose, unlike QLs which have whole threaded sections. And then if you make the threads thicker than the bar, it should be even stronger
Great video! Any idea where to get spare mixing nozzles for Dewalt Pure500+?
In Australia I get the spare Ramset nozzles from Bunnings. 15 bucks for 5, and they're the same & suitable for all the glues I use
good quick review. I just got one.
Sweet!
Nice video, thank you.
this was an awesome and super helpful video
Lovely review good analysis
Absolute legend. Looks like the blossoming Bolt-Gun is getting a tube of AnchorFix 3001 for chrissie.
And an applicator I hope! If you're in Oz you can get that and the Dewalts from bunnings, or the Mungo from a few places. My current fave is Bolt and Nut dot com
I feel like the 45 deg drop hanger that you can't really clip into with no intermediate quicklink or ring means people will just toprope through these because clipping a carabiner to another carabiner to setup a toprope is not taught as standard practice in a lot of places. Even I know it's probably fine but I don't particularly like doing that, I'd rather have my TR hardware totally separate from the lower-off hardware to make the transition easier and less confusing, especially for newer climbers. The setup you showed with a standard hanger, QL, then these steelies looks way more approachable and gives people options.
I just played with one yesterday... really not a fan. Too confusing for new climbers, and seems unnecessary compared to just 2 steel carabiners. Plus they cost more and the opening to slide a carabiner in is tiny. Clipping 2 with any horizontal offset will twist the crap out of your rope while lowering too, better to have them extended to a single point or a vertical stack where you lower off one and the 2nd is backup. What am I missing here?
That's pretty much it I think. Like a carabiner but more confusing and prone to seizing up. I think if everyone in your area is happy with non-locking carabiners there's little benefit to using these. Their real strength is they're lockable and more reliable in the long term than a fixed locking carabiner
Looks great, thanks for the review.
The torque strength feels really important for any twisted-style glue in bolt, or any bolts pulled off-axis like for highlining multiple lines off the same anchors. I guess the recessed shoulder should help with that too, but it's good to know the adhesive is more than just a gap filler.
For sure. I'm going to test this specific thing in my detail at some point but even this simple test was pretty interesting! Bolts with knurling shouldn't be at risk of rotation at all but threaded ones may well rotate unless epoxy is used and/or the eye is recessed
I was equally surprised at that quicklink. The tricky part about corrosion is it's hard to guess how compromised it is, and those looked pretty dang rusty. But I guess it might have been 50-60kN when new so that's 25% down, still super good enough. But if hardware doesn't give people the feel goods then it's time to replace anyway.
I have some vevor arborist gear, great value, I just don't use it for life support. 1×60m Edelrid rope for me =$400+ 2×67m vevor ropes for rigging =$147 My harness for climbing=$800+ Vevor harness for ground belaying=$53 As much as I want to, I can't find fault with the harness. A really tall guy at work chooses it over the petzl harnesses the work supply for rescue and access (so pretty much all training). He ran through a full week of high ropes rescue training wearing it recently, he's 6'7" and 100+kg, and there's still nothing wrong with that harness.
And it isn't really significantly cheaper than some Tendon 10mm static line....
I climb trees for cutting. I also live thoroughly in a lake-effect snow region. Vevor is a great brand for the fiberglass stakes I use to mark my driveway.
don't worry, you can definitely say they are deliberately trying to mislead people because they definitely are deliberately trying to mislead people. This stuff kills people and the fact they try and put a "standard" on it means they know what they are doing.
Good video. Visually, as soon as I saw that gear, I expected that (1) the carabiners were absolute garbage and basically have no value and (2) the rope is probably OK as a static rope for hauling gear. For actual climbing or other cases where the rope has to prevent a human from falling to their death, I only buy ropes made by reputable companies that test their ropes. But I'd take a punt and use a static rope like that for various utility applications such as (1) hauling gear up to my roof from my balcony when I need to clean my gutters (2) maybe if I ever wanted to build a rope swing for my kids that's not high off the ground (3) raising or lowering gear in a rescue situation (4) maybe as a utility lifeline if I had to throw a flotation device to someone who fell off a sailboat.
That's what I use them for (moving trees). Honestly its not bad.
Fiskars Pro 21 cm PN 1027204 about $33 USD. Thank you to Mountain Mullet my pair is on the way!
If you trust your life to Temu/Amazon brands, maybe Darwin has a trophy for you.
I try not to blame people for not knowing what I know. Like if you're total nube you might think they're ok based on the images of climbers and "26kN" rating on the website. You don't know what you don't know, but hopefully you think to ask someone who might, and they are nice enough to answer
Vevor doesn't seem to have anything labeled climbing rope when I searched a couple of minutes. They do offer double braid in multiple sizes (length and diameter). Funny thing, the 3/4" (19mm), has a picture showing rope used to tie up the center pole on a pup tent. Something that could easily be accomplished by 2mm line. I wouldn't even tie a dog hammock with those carabiners. The rope might be good for a haul rope on a long climb.
This particular one is from here, perhaps it's not on every Vevor lineup m.vevor.com.au/fall-protection-c_10789/vevor-static-climbing-rope-96-ft-outdoor-rock-climbing-rope-0-4-10mm-26kn-p_010272971428 But as shown in the video the same item is sold on Temu also
Great video as usual!
Thorough and insightful video. Thanks for testing the rope too!
6:23 this barrel/double fisherman is badly tied, you have to cross the strands before finishing the knot, google it, you will get it. If it's not clear tell me
I was expecting you to mention that it is also quite dodgy to be selling a static rope as a general purpose climbing rope, this will hurt people too
Did one break so you fell and landed on your head? Your writing is so incredibly bad that brain damage is the only possible explanation. It's really like you're consciously trying to make it as broken and illogical as possible.
@@MuscarV2 tf you talking about? his comment is fine
Looks like they were stronger than I would have expected
Don’t trust your life to any Chinese knock off
They look almost as bad as the vevor flip lines. line is great quality, the beaners claim to be 25kn but their weight and uh, finish, would leave me to think otherwise. Also isnt 5-6kn a serious injury/fatal zone? Understood its 4x than anyting you'd want to trust.
Pretty much. Rope is solid but biners are dangerous trash . I'll try to get the full testing out soon
@@MountainMullet You leggend its already out! Fantastic results, How can I send you my '25kn' beaner to throw in the rig :)? (Aus)
Do you have an email by any chance?
What rock type was that? Have you tried in granite? Would love to know how many holes you get in granite
This is quartzite but I have a standard runtime test using granite too. This video is from my other channel ruclips.net/video/odMZo1_s9ek/видео.html
@ awesome thanks man and that’s a 5 amp hour battery? 27 bolts is pretty good… thanks for the video and responding
Yeah bruv happy bolting
Sick pull tester! Is that new? Per usual great information and video.
Thanks mate! Black Friday was kind this year, got an electric pump for the hydraulics and a nicer load cell +indicator. The whole thing is much easier & safer to use now so I plan to use it a lot more
Maillons are pretty awesome. Shows how much strength we give up for the convenience of a karabiner. I heard of some caving expeditions using alu maillons because it saves a lot of weight when you need 100+ of them
Yeah pretty impressive, the good ones at least. Decent ones will have a thread that's bigger diameter than the bar stock, whereas some cheaper ones will have the same diameter, so that's the weak point
I think maillon rapide is French for quicklink. Petzl tends to use this name for their quicklinks, maybe it's from petzl?
They're made by Péguet in France. It's the brand name, that became so common that's what they call it! Like how Hoover means vacuum cleaner or Kleenex means tissue in some places
Ooh that's interesting, thanks for the historical context!
Wonder if there's a fairly consistent correlation with perpendicular pull vs adjacent pull strength?
What's with the bullshit lava pit sound?
That's the volcano