After playing around with my new UV I’ve found that 0.03 line interval works the best, match this to your rotary setting as well. Zero overlap. 300s, 60 frequency, 1QP. I think the biggest issue with you getting lines is your interval is too large as you UV size would be a lot smaller especially on a 3w.
Wouldn’t a constant rotary just be a matter of changing the split size to the same as the line width. The only problem is that it would probably crash Lightburn due to the way it frames then lasers. Also crosshatching would effectively become 2 passes as it’s not moving across when changing direction. You would also need to have a gear/pulley reduction if you want to do anything high resolution or a large diameter.
Hey Matt, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge so I wanted to give back a little. I've spent days and sacrificed quite a few glasses trying to get the perfect settings on my 5W UV with a 150mm lens. Tested these on both my chuck and roller rotaries until I got the lines to disappear with the fastest speed possible. Here's what I'm using in LigthBurn: Speed 600 Frequency 45 Q pulse 1 Line Interval .015 Bidirectional ON Cross-Hatch OFF Passes 3 - Rotary Split .15mm Overlap 0. You can increase the speed for an engraving that is less deep, all the way up to 900mm but I prefer a nice deep etching. Not sure if this will work on your 3W machine but worth a try.
Hey man, You can actually engrave one letter at a time really fast without the rotary moving. Set your split size slightly larger than your biggest letter (say 25mm) also set run whole shapes and you’ll have no lines because the rotary will only turn for each whole letter
@@laserengravingwithmatthow’s the UV going I’d love an update video 🎉. I’ve just got a new 10w laser can’t wait to get it setup. Ps. Don’t forgot to oil the bush under your sprocket on your garage door that’s a big wear point.
Hi Matt absolutely love your videos and have learned a lot from you. I've really been interested in added a UV Laser to my arsenal, I went to check out your link the the description for the UV laser but it no longer works. Wasn't sure if the listing was just gone or what but would really be interested in seeing what the investment cost would be and see if I could get a good ROI on it. Thanks again for all you share in your videos.
The lines could be from your line interval needing adjustment (either too much beam overlap per pass, or not enough), in which case you would likely see lines following both your hatch angles (the initial angle + crosshatched angle), or if it follows the axis of the rotary, it could be your split size. If your split doesn't divide out by your line interval evenly, it can cause gaps in coverage. Its easier to identify that if you work in mm in both your design and parameter values. Excessive overlap can cause it as well, but that's a whole different thing. I personally don't crosshatch on rotary because I run tight hatches, i just find i get better quality that way. If you run tight splits for quality it makes it take orders of magnitude longer with my way, but I still prefer my results. give and take when it comes to that and having a billion ways to do it and if you're looking to make changes if there is improvement to be had. no right or wrong way, just what works for you. hope my tips help! Great content as always, thanks Matt! And yea, i see that Co2 galvo back there lol. 30 or 60? looks like the 30 with a 10mm head?
Thanks Kyle. I appreciate all the advice you give. The only reason why I use hatch is because sometimes there is an imperfection in the glass this way it has time to fix itself. I definitely will try to play around with the overlap.
Matt, great video. Thanks for sharing the info. I have a fiber laser which I have been using to engraving "photos" and I have considered picking up a UV laser in the hopes that I can achieve a much higher dpi without overlapping. Any clue what the max dpi is on your machine before your line spacing starts to overlap? My 50w fiber with a 110mm lens is something like ~341 dpi
Im following you since your Start like 2 years now? Remmeber? I wanna thank you for Sharing your Ideas and todos + Motivation. Im Growing also step by step. Thanks Matt your out there!
Enjoy you videos Matt, Great stuff !!!! Now I want an UV , This would be my first Laser purchase and I need to engrave about 250 bourbon glasses for a fund raiser would this setup work for me? and do you have any information where I can get a rotary like yours I don't see it listed in your comments Thanks so very much
First love your videos, been long time subscriber. Love your positivity. Second: The rotate engrave rotate engrave is determined by your split size in the rotary settings. Test out like 10mm or so. With rotary gotta be careful how far the split size in, in relation to the convex of the cup, can distort engraving. Also tends to leave a line every split size rotation. Typically best quality is smaller split and higher lpi. Uv is based on fiber laser source filtered to uv wave length. Fiber on rotary has good results with .02 line space and .02 split so id start there. Three: new black laser in the back looks like co2 galvo but concerned cause scan head looks very small for co2 galvo. If it is, is it 20mm scan head or 30mm? For best results with co2 galvo should have 30mm scan head with 6x to 8x beam expander. Looks like might be 20mm scan head with 4x expander? Hard to tell from distance in video.
Thanks I will play around with the split size. I didn’t know it was based on the fiber. It’s making a lot more sense now. Yes it is a co2. I have to make a video and I will explain everything in that video. Thanks 😃
@@laserengravingwithmatt look forward to it! Your videos help me a lot, so if there is ever anything I can do to try and return the favor please reach out! Have a good one!
Matt, do you engrave on customer originals? I.e "I have 3 wine glasses I want you to engrave for me?" If not, what do you tell them. I struggle with most of my local stuff being stuff like that
I'm curious! How do you obtain new customers? Is it purely word of mouth or so? I've a small woodworking startup and I'm struggling to find new customers, since word of mouth hasn't really picked up quite yet
I just watch because you're a cute personable teddy bear. But you are very approachable in the way you do things, and you are influencing me to want to start one of these businesses here in Las Vegas. Damn you. Haha. You're going to cost me some money, and possibly the reason I make some also.
After playing around with my new UV I’ve found that 0.03 line interval works the best, match this to your rotary setting as well. Zero overlap. 300s, 60 frequency, 1QP.
I think the biggest issue with you getting lines is your interval is too large as you UV size would be a lot smaller especially on a 3w.
Wouldn’t a constant rotary just be a matter of changing the split size to the same as the line width. The only problem is that it would probably crash Lightburn due to the way it frames then lasers. Also crosshatching would effectively become 2 passes as it’s not moving across when changing direction. You would also need to have a gear/pulley reduction if you want to do anything high resolution or a large diameter.
Hey Matt, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge so I wanted to give back a little. I've spent days and sacrificed quite a few glasses trying to get the perfect settings on my 5W UV with a 150mm lens. Tested these on both my chuck and roller rotaries until I got the lines to disappear with the fastest speed possible. Here's what I'm using in LigthBurn: Speed 600 Frequency 45 Q pulse 1 Line Interval .015 Bidirectional ON Cross-Hatch OFF Passes 3 - Rotary Split .15mm Overlap 0. You can increase the speed for an engraving that is less deep, all the way up to 900mm but I prefer a nice deep etching. Not sure if this will work on your 3W machine but worth a try.
Thanks 😃
Matt, what did you use to cover the metal grippers when you are engraving glassware?
Great video, thanks
OOPS, I missed the use of hose at the begining of the video
Hey man,
You can actually engrave one letter at a time really fast without the rotary moving. Set your split size slightly larger than your biggest letter (say 25mm) also set run whole shapes and you’ll have no lines because the rotary will only turn for each whole letter
Thanks I will try that
@@laserengravingwithmatthow’s the UV going I’d love an update video 🎉. I’ve just got a new 10w laser can’t wait to get it setup.
Ps. Don’t forgot to oil the bush under your sprocket on your garage door that’s a big wear point.
What do you do with the UV besides glass type materials? I am sure you covered last year, but I can’t seem to recall.
Glad we got to see you again 😉
I use it for glass and leather and plastics
Hi Matt absolutely love your videos and have learned a lot from you. I've really been interested in added a UV Laser to my arsenal, I went to check out your link the the description for the UV laser but it no longer works. Wasn't sure if the listing was just gone or what but would really be interested in seeing what the investment cost would be and see if I could get a good ROI on it. Thanks again for all you share in your videos.
I will look into that
The lines could be from your line interval needing adjustment (either too much beam overlap per pass, or not enough), in which case you would likely see lines following both your hatch angles (the initial angle + crosshatched angle), or if it follows the axis of the rotary, it could be your split size. If your split doesn't divide out by your line interval evenly, it can cause gaps in coverage. Its easier to identify that if you work in mm in both your design and parameter values. Excessive overlap can cause it as well, but that's a whole different thing.
I personally don't crosshatch on rotary because I run tight hatches, i just find i get better quality that way. If you run tight splits for quality it makes it take orders of magnitude longer with my way, but I still prefer my results. give and take when it comes to that and having a billion ways to do it and if you're looking to make changes if there is improvement to be had. no right or wrong way, just what works for you. hope my tips help!
Great content as always, thanks Matt! And yea, i see that Co2 galvo back there lol. 30 or 60? looks like the 30 with a 10mm head?
Thanks Kyle. I appreciate all the advice you give. The only reason why I use hatch is because sometimes there is an imperfection in the glass this way it has time to fix itself. I definitely will try to play around with the overlap.
Matt, great video. Thanks for sharing the info.
I have a fiber laser which I have been using to engraving "photos" and I have considered picking up a UV laser in the hopes that I can achieve a much higher dpi without overlapping.
Any clue what the max dpi is on your machine before your line spacing starts to overlap?
My 50w fiber with a 110mm lens is something like ~341 dpi
I don’t
Im following you since your Start like 2 years now? Remmeber? I wanna thank you for Sharing your Ideas and todos + Motivation. Im Growing also step by step. Thanks Matt your out there!
Thanks 😃
Enjoy you videos Matt, Great stuff !!!! Now I want an UV , This would be my first Laser purchase and I need to engrave about 250 bourbon glasses for a fund raiser would this setup work for me? and do you have any information where I can get a rotary like yours I don't see it listed in your comments Thanks so very much
I emailed them and got it that way and yes it will work. They will look like you sand blasted them.
Thanks Matt!
Check out the rotoboss talon
Thanks
$1300 bucks?? Thats just crazy!
First love your videos, been long time subscriber. Love your positivity.
Second: The rotate engrave rotate engrave is determined by your split size in the rotary settings. Test out like 10mm or so. With rotary gotta be careful how far the split size in, in relation to the convex of the cup, can distort engraving. Also tends to leave a line every split size rotation. Typically best quality is smaller split and higher lpi. Uv is based on fiber laser source filtered to uv wave length. Fiber on rotary has good results with .02 line space and .02 split so id start there.
Three: new black laser in the back looks like co2 galvo but concerned cause scan head looks very small for co2 galvo. If it is, is it 20mm scan head or 30mm? For best results with co2 galvo should have 30mm scan head with 6x to 8x beam expander. Looks like might be 20mm scan head with 4x expander? Hard to tell from distance in video.
Thanks I will play around with the split size. I didn’t know it was based on the fiber. It’s making a lot more sense now. Yes it is a co2. I have to make a video and I will explain everything in that video. Thanks 😃
@@laserengravingwithmatt look forward to it! Your videos help me a lot, so if there is ever anything I can do to try and return the favor please reach out! Have a good one!
Awesome!!!!!! You have an awesome setup.
Thanks 😊
Matt, do you engrave on customer originals? I.e "I have 3 wine glasses I want you to engrave for me?" If not, what do you tell them. I struggle with most of my local stuff being stuff like that
I do it but I also let them know if something happens to the machine when it’s engraving I’m not responsible for the cup.
Ya they show the laser using a roller to engrave
Wait a minute. How do you get the different split setup when you click start. Wouldn’t that just start the laser? I don’t own a uv but I have a fiber.
It pops up when I have the chuck rotary plugged in.
*Great Work!!!*
I'm curious! How do you obtain new customers? Is it purely word of mouth or so? I've a small woodworking startup and I'm struggling to find new customers, since word of mouth hasn't really picked up quite yet
Word of mouth and Etsy
are you only on etsy or do you have a website as well?
Just Etsy for now
"Too blessed to be stressed." I'm glad you're doing well 👍
Have you looked into UV printers? I think that's going to be my next purchase
Yes I have. I can’t justify the prices. Just to replace the head is 3500.00 and you need to run it every couple days or things start to fail.
@@laserengravingwithmatt They seem like high maintenance machines, but they look so fun! Thanks for your input!
I just watch because you're a cute personable teddy bear. But you are very approachable in the way you do things, and you are influencing me to want to start one of these businesses here in Las Vegas. Damn you. Haha. You're going to cost me some money, and possibly the reason I make some also.
😂🤣
im saving up for the 3d felek 10w head so i dont have to use a rotary
Nice
Would you be able to do a half or full wrap with that?
@@kennethfails3593 never seen a full wrap shoot glass or wine ect just mugs and ill use my fiber for that
@@kennethfails3593
,3D laser machine has 100/2100/300/400/600 working area,the max is 600X600mm(24X24inches)
try putting it out of focus a bit.
UV has a really tight window for being in focus going out of focus. It won’t work that’s what I’m finding anyhow.