🖌🎨 Only TWO DAYS LEFT to grab the Squidmar 2024 Infinity Airbrush!🎨🖌 and while you're at it, grab yourself some paint sets and the Squidmar Wet Palette: harderairbrush.com/pages/squidmar-release-2024-inf
Hey guys, Firstly i woul like to say i love your work an have been a follower for almost a year now and look forward to every video (on both channels ;) ) This leads me onto trying to buy all the ltd. edition Squid stuff. I signed up for and then was the first to buy the Infinity (New one), i have recieved my paints and palette which are awesome, but every time i try check on the progress of the airbrush, H&S keep telling me it's coming soon or being made etc etc. It's been almost 5 weeks now since they took my money but no brush. Anyway, is there any leverage you have over at H&S to get them moving a bit faster, i don't mind waiting a few weeks, but when it's a case of 5 and more..... no no no especially as they took the payment there and then?
@@noelkilgarriff5981 hey man, unfortunately we can't extent the airbrush campaign. But send me an email on our website, let me see what I can do for you as a one off.
You should have displayed the exact printer Settings you used for each print... and what resin you used.... this would have been very interesting to see.
Agreed. I know they said they used recommended settings and resin but from my understanding the resin makes a lot of difference. The same reason in different printers would be a good test I think.
that would not work. 6 differences resin 3d printers and I can tell you 2 important things... first, even if you use the same resin and same layer height, all the printers behave differently, as an example, the light dispersion technology that each printers uses. Second you ALWAYS has to came up with your own settings, why? because the "recommended" settings are like a guide because that doesn't take in to a consideration stuff like ambient humidity and ambient and resin temperature, among others variables. Specially those 2, impact tremendously the outcome of the miniature. 3d printers are like woman..., even if you date one, the second one is totally different and the one you learn with the other, most of the time don't apply to the next... and they will be piss!!. Same the printers.. you use the same parameters from one printer to other and.. it will piss and screw your print hahahhaha XD. Resin 3d Printing is a hobby by itself guys.... @squidmarMiniatures
Yeah, looks like some over exposure and different layer heights. it doesn't make like much of an apples to apples comparison when there doesn't appear to be any dialing in like using a test print matrix and selecting the best, using the same media for each, and same layer heights (when possible)
I have exactly this Anycubic printer and i never had the problem with the layer lines. It's Hard for me to compare the degree of the details with something because it is my first one 😅 but i am very happy with it, it is very beginnen friendly
you can probably print with 30-40% thinner layers, which gives it almost no stepping. also knowing how to orient your model helps. good resin (not expensive, but good) goes a long way too. and often layer lines might just be you over or undercooking your resin. also dont print when the resin is too cold most resins like to be easy 30°c+
I’ve got 3 different 3D printers and I pretty much only use my Photon Mono and get great results. It’s definitely over exposed which is why it lost definition and is shiny.
The J55 does print with support, either a water soluble (wss150) or one you blast off (sup710), they have post processed the minis before sending them. I use one almost daily in my job, its main strength is the multimaterial and colour options and I wouldn't use one for minis purely as the build material is roughly 500 USD per kg.
@@yeahboiwahoo This exact. The only Additive (3d print) processes that don’t require supports are Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) [supports are required if printing metal though due to heat] and Binder Jet, as the build material supports the printed geometry. However, neither are optimal for scale miniatures that we appreciate in the hobby with their rougher surface texture.
disappointed that you didn't prime all the minis to give them all the same surface texture/quality to make comparisons easier and fairer. the glossyness of some resins make them look less detailed then they actually are and the opposite is true of matt resins.
@@CTimmerman That's not necessarily true, most manufacturers will have a specific resin they produce or recommend for their printers, it very much depends on how that printer functions, sure there are 3rd party resins that are more geared up than stock resins, but if you're a first time printer, you're not going to do that
problem is that a lot of primers have some filling properties about them that would obscure the layer line difference. While I do understand where you are coming from (part of me agrees), I do see a case for looking at the bare part in it's best according to the manufacturer. They put together a system to produce an end result so it would only be fair to see what the manufacturer can demonstrate. Plus some prints might need to stay clear for their intended purpose and layer lines may make a difference (lenses, prisms and windows)
@@Lfcsweden-n5m If you can see the layer lines that's going to mess with drybrushing and washes, anything above that is...vanity, until you get to golden demon.
@@stephenrider6107 usually layers lines are easily avoidably by optimizing the printer and positiong of the model and so on. Also priming miniatures and prepping prior to printing fixes most of these problems.
Dude the White Vault is fantastic! I listened to the whole thing over the summer 2022 while painting my Night Haunt, and it is my no. 1 favorite podcast of all time! Did not expect it to pop up!
Yeah me too, except it was our winter. I loved listening to that, hearing the sound effects, the music, and the story as it progressed. I still go back and listen to it from time to time. Excellent series.
Back in 99 I was working in Hong Kong and drifted past a high end Tech store with a brand new just released Pioneer 42" Plasma TV in the Window retailing for a Whopping $10,000, which is an event that routinely pops into my mind when I see an equally impressive piece of cutting edge tech today like that printer... as it reminds me that in a relatively short amount of time the bar for entry will drop so low that we'll struggle to understand how something so ubiquitous and cheap now was so expense just a few short years ago.. 20 years from now that high end Printer selling for $100,000 today would be the entry level model you'd buy if your were working on a tight budget. for a fraction of a fraction of its current price tag..
Back in 99 some offices still had floppies around. Not ten years later they were gone, replaced by CDR and hard drives. And now we can store a terabyte of data on a chip the size of a thumb nail. I'm not sure if prices for 3D printers will drop that much in 20 years, though. It's pretty niche compared to a TV or computer.
That phrozen 8k resin is reallya cheat code in a bottle. I would love to see you print with all of the printers using that resin. Maybe pour it into the heygears bottle
I've used my Saturn 2 for a few years and have that thing dialed in to the point there are no layer lines printing at 30 microns. That thing has been an absolute workhorse for me
This. They said it in the video, they used the "recommended settings" from the manufacturer. And the recommended settings are almost always 0.05, which is really bad for printing minis if you're aiming for quality. I wouldn't be happy with any of the prints they made using home printers. My very old Elegoo Saturn 1 does better prints with zero layer lines. Everything depends on the settings and the resin used.
I got a mars 3 and also print at 0.02mm. I hardly ever see layers lines. I get comparing stock resin recommendations, but it really doesn't show off quality. I would have at least done same layer height on all or smallest layer height of each printer. I really think if you're getting layer lines on any current elegoo, anycubic or phrozen printer, that's entirely due to the settings not the capability of the printer.
honestly I just had my hands on Mars5 Ultra, and I am left speechless seeing how bad the quality of the first two in the video is when comparing. And need to say that the price tag is lower too.
@catchapl I bet you're loving that tilt feature! So fucking cool. But yeah, super weird that they didn't all use the same layer heights or bring in the Elegoo Mars or Saturn series, since they are REALLY cheap compared to a lot of what they showed, and arguably a lot better.
Just bought the paint set, looking forward to giving them a try, and see how they compare with the array of Citadel paints I have! much cheaper too for the amount you get so thank you for that!
Hey guys! Just got back into Warhammer 40K and love your channel, thoroughly enjoyed the Manta and War Titan series. You got me excited to start painting my (20 year old) backlog and maybe even repaint some of the miniatures I did when I was 15 years old. Just got the wet pallet and all three paint sets and figuring out my color schemes. My only disappointment was that I received a second bottle of Violet Red in the Dark Future Set instead of a bottle of Magenta, but I don't think I'll use the purple all that much anyway. Looking forward to your next big project!
Hey man, sorry about the mistake in the set. If change your mind about getting the paint replaced, please send me an email in a reasonable time and we'll sort it.:)
Why using different resin? The simple fact that a resin is darker than another affects the details, because the UV are stopped more efficiently between layers and affects light bleeding. Also factory settings are often overexposed to avoid failures (temperature of the room, resin used etc...), so tweaks are needed to decrease exposure.
Anycubic is great if you wanna try buggy, first-gen hard/software. I had a Mono X and even after years of updates, no proper Anti-aliasing. I just compensated by reducing layer heights :)
We've unfortunately had the same experience, this isnt our first anycubic (its our 4th) and we've had the same problem with resin and FDM printers. Its funny how they used to be more user friendly 5 years ago than they are today.
For ~$400 the details looks like a great beginner intro for home printing, to learn how to do it. Trimming, cleaning, ventilation fans, curing gear, cleaning solution, etc., etc., is a huge investment in time and money, and gotta say, not all of us are that committed yet 😀
I have a mars 3 Pro and to be honest, there's soooo many variables that affect print quality, especially in low quality resin (or mid)... From temperature of the resin container , to the amount of humidity etc. I think that's why "other peoples settings" isn't working most of the time. I've had to play around SOOOO many times until I got some insane prints, that I couldn't even see the defects. And I think the newer printers are even more crazy, with self heating beds and moving resin reservoir. I am definitely looking at the Saturn 5 Ultra with sparkling eyes :D haha
@@Majdaryeah resin printing settings are specific to each individual user due to the weather in that area. Going with the manufacturer recommendation for settings is fine for a place to start but doing calibration prints is mandatory if you want the best print out of the machine
look up FDM figurines. theyre getting really good these days and are a lot less hassle. theyre also cheaper. that is if youre planning to not print 100s of figurines and sell em, cause in those cases its better to do Resin.
@@SquidmarMiniatures Your channel has "miniatures" in the title, and as learning to sculpt or waiting for prints to make molds of takes longer than printing your own, 3D printing miniatures will increase in popularity.
It's the resin recommended by the brands for the home printers, using the settings they recommended us to use. So this is comparing the experience a home maker would have when grabbing their first printer and making their first prints.
Yeah, We have a printer sent from Anycubic using stock recommended setting that are for just getting a print to work no matter what(Not for fine quality), A mini 8k that has been fiddled with to make it more optimal for minis and the other 3 machines being either locked down completely , professionally tuned by a pro and one that doesn't even use sla printing technology...
@@Brodoodle Hey Brodoodle, we have not calibrated or done any "professional adjustments" to any of the home 3d printers. All three of them have been using settings and resins as recommended by the brands.
@@SquidmarMiniatures that’s not how resin printing works. You know that. Those settings on bottles are to ensure *something* prints. They are not for quality and the range on bottles is very wide to ensure people get *some* result. The least you could’ve done was print some validation matrices to tune exposure. Would’ve cost you an hour or two, would’ve made the video make more sense. Also, why would you possibly compare differently pigmented resins. Of course some of those catch light better than others. Why not prime the models first then? Siraya Tech’s Navy Grey looks infinitely better out of the box than an average standard grey resin, but after priming the models those differences go away.
Hey! Just want to say I'm a big fan of yours, thank you for the content you make! I just bought a Phrozen printer, cleaning and curing station after watching one of your other videos and am happy to see that it compares well to these other printers! One thing that would be nice to see, is where to set up a printer in your home. I've seen many videos about how to optimize builds and get the best print quality, but not as much on where it is safe to setup in your home and what kind of home setup options you should look at. I'm sure you have your plate full with videos, but that is something I think would be helpful for those who are getting into the 3d printing hobby! Cheers!
The White Vault is one of the few stories that actively makes me uncomfortable to exist. I love it so much. I'm from a place that can have white outs from snow, so it's a familiar sense to me
I think the comparison would benefit from using optimum settings and the same resin for each print. Obviously there will be a massive difference between an 2k printer using basic resin and 8k printer with the proper 8k or equivalent resin. The video is still cool, but not a great way to make an informed decision
Hey man, while i do agree - with this test, we've asked the brands to send us their own recommended resins and settings. Something as a first time buyer - you'd probably listen too. I'm 100% sure there are ways to optimize all these printers to get a better result with some testing. But for an "out of box" comparison, i think each brand had a fair chance to give us their best :)
@@SquidmarMiniatures I think it's valid to say it's "out of box" but I'd say most of this hobby is not out of box. GW obviously recommends their paints and their tools to work on their models but that doesn't mean the best experience or quality. Still an interesting video and the channel isn't primarily focused on 3d printing so I get it. Going in, I was expecting a bit more like the paint brand comparison.
Weta Workshop and other special effects companies use the J55 printers for things like really detailed eyes etc in props and creatures. Very cool tech. But hit the nail on the head , it’s not aimed at printing minis. Great video 🙂
The texture is matt because it's overexexpose. No matter if it's a cheap or an expensive printer, if it's overexposed it will look like trash and have almost bo details. I've been using a photon m5 for a year and I'm getting good results. There is so many parameters in a 3D printer, you can't just go blind and expect it to work.
It looks like you haven't oriented your prints the same way every single time, which could contribute to the differences, but i might be wrong :) Great video as always guys :)
Except for the first printer, I didn't really notice any difference between the rest of them. You should also try Uniformation GK2 and GK3. A lot of praise as the bests in the class.
This comparison is worthless, if you use different resins you need at least prime them. Not to mention calibrating resins, setting AA, using ACF film... I'm almost certain anycubic can match phrozen if configured properly
Those prints look slike overexposured and not cleaned propertly... I have Anycubic M3 Premium with 8k resolution, where this printer is not the most expenswe and high-end printer and my prints looks sharp as hell...
@@CTimmerman problem with resin print is their are no default settings bottle to bottle things change no where near as standard as fdm print has become.
@CTimmerman But according to another comment of theirs they didn't use the default settings, they were in contact with the manufacturers and used what they told them. Most people aren't calling the printer manufacturer for recommendations if they're the 'default settings' type of person.
This isn't fair u guys just want me to spend all my hard earned money on a sick 3-D printer which I really really want to do. Thanks for the updated info. U guys are the best.
A good video, honestly. It felt more like a "brand vs brand" video rather than a printer vs printer, but that's still a fair comparison to make! A beginner needs to know what brands to listen to and which to not and that sometimes it's just better to finetune it from their settings and find what resin works best for you.
I have the anycubic mono 5s pro. I love the printer but absolutely hate anycubic resin. I have been using Sunlu's 14k and abs-like resin. I have been getting some pretty crisp prints but it took some time to tune.
I love my Phrozen Mighty 8K, but I do wish it had components like the other printers have. Like a built in heater, handles on the vat tray, an auto pour in, and a holder for your built plate to let excess resin to drip back in.
Nearly all the same wishes for me but I found DIY solutions since it's such a solid printer, i don't care for included self heating as I just transfer my air heater i got on ammazon into the printer i will be running so I don't have to keep paying for that feature in newer printers I upgrade to.
I've been looking at getting that Phrozen Mini for a while now, I just currently don't have the space for a work station to print minis or to clean/cure them, good to know that despite it being relatively cheap, it's still a great choice for novice printers
I have an M5s and the quality is bad but speed is where it excels, it all depends what you care about. I printed a warhound on it and the quality at that scale was fine and the speed unbeatable for the price
what I see is that you used different resins on printers that were not calibrated. Typically more expensive printers just come with extra features, easy of use, and faster print times. The quality doesn't change that much. If you want an actually comparison, use the same resin on all the printers and use the cones of calibration to make sure they are all calibrated. Then redo these prints. I bet you will find that these print qualities will look much closer to each other.
I've got a Mars 3 and it prints significantly better than that first dwarf print! I've got minis here with no layer lines visible, using a bog standard ABS-like resin. Your settings for exposure time and layer line heights etc will make such a difference and, respectfully, I doubt that the team calibrated every resin and every printer they used for optimal quality. Something to bear in mind if shopping for a printer and using this video as a guide.
Tbh I think comparisons for detail really need to be made post priming. Resin makes a huge difference in how detail is perceived on a finished print. The one I use looks much softer than other resins I've used (due to the lower amount of pigment making surfaces slightly translucent and overall more glossy), but after priming there is no/very little difference
at 4:57 do you mean smooth or soft? I agree it looks smooth but somehwo layers still are visible. I would not expect any of the resin plastics to be soft though.
The angle of the print definitely affects the outcome. I can print really small stuff and it it's angled right the layer lines are almost invisible. A light coat of extra thin cement to lightly touching the print with fine sanding sticks finish it up.
You also have to note with the Heygears that it uses their resin only as they do not allow you to make any profile changes. Also their resin is double the cost in most cases.
What slicer programs did you use? Sometimes the failures you are seeing come from the slicer. Sometimes you can reslice in the same slicer or another slicer and get better results.
Interesting to see the comparison with the ultra high end printers and a useful video for those home users new to the 3D Printer world and looking to use the manufacturers recommended resins and settings. As ever, the usual bunch of 3d printing "experts"/bores/nerds (delete as appropriate) are always going to rant about their enormous expertise and favourite printers - your politeness towards those is impressive 🤣
I have an anycubic photon M3 and still using factory settings and works just fine. Plus, you're using different resins, the 8k printer is using what at first glance looks like 8k resin, try printing on that with regular resin
@@SquidmarMiniatures if you say so I'll take your word but I've seen prints on a printer with the same settings with different resin and the difference y noticeable, barely, but noticeable
@@alvaroaugustomeridio Every resin is different, absolutely. What i'm saying is; its not a magical completely different thing. It's just phrozens resin and they decided to use the keyword 8k to make it sound fancy. The quality of the resin is leaps and bounds better than anycubic. But as we've said; we used the recommended resin and settings provided by each producer.
One thing that would have made this a much more objective test would have been to use the SAME resin for all of the printers. Changing the resin types with each test doesn't show the capabilities of the printers or the qualities of the prints. Glossy vs Matte can be an issue because they're formulated differently.
Yall should have added saturn 4 Ultra to the mix, it prints amazing quality and fast, and has large build plate, the M5s comes with ACF release film which is cloudy and adds to ligt bleed and softness, PFA/nFEP and FEP are the clear release films that are better for sharpness, so the M5s just isnt reaaaally made for high detail minis in the stock config 🤷♂️🤷♂️ great video as always ❤
Nice video, you´ll find that the printer isn´t all that determines the end quality, starting with the resins and settings, ending with the postprocess cleaning and everything inbetween can vastly change the outcome on whatever printer
I own the Sonic Mini 8K, and I have always been blown away by its details. Phrozens are not a commonly bought brand I've learnt but its a shame because the printers are genuinely some of the highest detailed ones I've seen.
Curious what you guys think about the Sonic Mini 8Ks vs the Sonic Mighty 8k? Thinking of taking the plunge on a 3d printer, mostly from watching your work over the years.
Hey guys I love your videos and the inspiration you bring to us all. I also love the music in your videos but I just found a handfull of the tracks so I wanted to ask if you could share it also. Do you have a spotify list?
This is exactly why I don’t even dream of getting into printing. I’ve seen some crazy gorgeous prints made on 8k affordable printers, so it’s clear that the user is very much a factor here. I’m not willing nor capable of investing the required time and effort to get that skill. Also I don’t have a space where I could set it up, so it’s not a difficult decision for me to make.
They were all using the recommended settings from the brands, using their printers using the guides they asked us to follow. We've made this video as an exampe of what you can expect printing your first mini straight out of the box and comparing it - to some of the insane things you can have from the high end printers.
@@SquidmarMiniatures For education purposes its fine. Cheaper printers can still produce way higher quality as correct exposure is very reliant room temperature and brand recommonded settings can't answer that without calibration prints.
@@samael.projects 100%, any printer can get better with time spent on it. With that said though, we've used many anycubics in the past, and we've never been able to match the quality of other brands especially when using their resins. With the exception of the first photon when it came out, just because it didnt really have any competition in the cheap consumer market at the time of release. ;)
Don't really know what you've tried to achieve, but DWS-029 just have extremely small pixel size (0.02mm pixel size), so it's ofc will give better details than M5S Pro which has 10.1" screen(0.025mm pixel size) but also utilizes ACF film which isn't good for small details. From perspective of price/performance Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra would just shred every single printer you decided to compare here
Its not the pixle size that made a difrence, i need a jewelers lens to tell the difrence between my phrozen 8k vs my mars 5 ultra especially when both are running .02mm layer hights, in this video it looks like anycubic told them to print at .1mm layer hight in their speed resin while the phrozen recommend .05 on their High resolution resin...
It's been my experience that the weird textures and slimy finish have been because of the resin. Sometimes it is not mixed enough, sometimes the temperature is bad, or sometimes the cleaning IPA is too dirty. I have a couple of resin printers that are calibrated as close to perfect as possible, and, if I forget to mix the resin after being idle for a couple of days, the prints turn out just as gross. Food for thought. It might be worth it to release that Dwarf STL and see what your viewers can come up with on their printers.
I use the m5s pro with abs like resin and the quality is much better than here shown. Settings are super important when printing resin but good video overall sadly the "cheap" printers are shown like they are not so good, i recomend the m5s pro eays to use and with some tweaking print super good minis and bigger stuff too.
Great review, but I would have put the elegoo saturn 2 in place of the anycubic, I think the saturn 2 would match the phrozen printer for quality but I guess you cannot compare too many printers
At around 3:05 that almost looks like a resin problem. I had something similar happen when I used some really expired eco-resin. BTW, look up the Cones of Calibration and if the recommended settings don't pass, try again after you get something that does.
Hey guys, great video, bit I think you should have calibrated the printers (1h max) and set st least the same layer hight. Also, I do think that the expensive printers aren't calibrated for fine details too.
With it's auto feed from those inverted stupid proprietary bottles that have to be shoved all the way down the channel in the back, I wouldn't have thought of the HeyGears as being particularly easy to clean 🤔 Do you have to remove the bottle just to remove the vat? Does the auto feed have to be flushed through if you're changing resin? especially if you go from grey to clear for example.
I get the same quality as the expensive ones with a Saturn 3 at 0.02mm layer height with the elegoo cheap gray resin. If you have any layer lines you can add 2 points of of antialiasing.
Been watching this channel the last few weeks, as I started getting back into Warhammer. Haven’t played since 4th addition in middle school. Inspiring me to improve my miniature painting and actually think about lighting when I paint them.
Love the video concept, just ask that in future tests are showed with a black primer + zenithal through an airbrush. The differences in resin finishes are doing a lot for these in terms of camera shots. The more matte resins really photograph a ton better, which makes this harder for us as the audience to really get the true comparison.
Not a big fan of Anycubic, but imho you didn't understand the principle how this machine should be used. By the way, regarding to the recommended settings - recommended for what kind of job?
The problem with Anycubic lately is they give you a "default premade" exposure test... that only works for 0.05 layer size, so you need to custom make your own REFR for smaller layers (the machine should be able to go to 0.02... I have the M5 and it goes to 0.03 no problem), the problem is to know precisely the order and location of each part of the REFR. Also, how you place the model in the machine changes a lot of the final result. In my experience, Anycubic's post-sale is not the best company (but considering is one of the few brands with cheap, quality printers able to test up to 8 times per print, I think it's a good compromise with the aftersales support). I had a Photon S prior to this one, and using the same resin the M5 has given me superior detail in the same layer height, and faster (not that I mind that part, frankly, but less exposure time means more life for the screen after all).
Hey squidmar, I know it may seem odd but could you each pick and print a high detail 3d print animal Then both paint them and try make them look as realistic as possible? I feel it would be surprising awesome
Heygears is a good printer, and they make their process postprocess workflow incredibly simple. The issue is that they charge an arm and a leg, and if they ever go bankrupt you can no longer print with their printer since it requires connection to their servers.
I'm just getting into the hobby and want to get a airbrush but the cost is just a bit out of budget and I don't want to get some cheap crap. One day I would like to get the squidmar airbrush.
There isnt such a thing as "no support" there is support in the stratasys polyjet printer, its a gel that is removed with a water jet washer (there is a version with soluble supports).
The Anycubic needs to be tuned for your specific conditions - room temperature, humidity, the specific resin (even the specific bottle as they can vary), the kinds of prints you're intending to make, and the specific printer (those can vary too). Dissing the output from an untuned 3D printer compared to a (almost certainly tuned) $100k printer... seems pretty unfair. That'd be like buying a new airbrush, using the default needle/nozzle, sticking unthinned "ready for airbrush" paint inside, yolo'ing the pressure from a new compressor and pushing the trigger all the way all the time, and then comparing it to an expert using a good airbrush with tuned settings.
ive been 3d printing for several years now with the photon mono you should get sharper detail than than id say you would need to print some calibration tests could be simple under exposure, but there are so many reasons for print issues from exposure time,lift speed if the printer has old or damged fep film and so on, also different resins all print differently. unfortunatly you cant just bung a file on the printer and hit go sometimes takes lots of messing around and i dont thinks its fair to compare a £300 with a 65000 grand printer!
Once I have a space for printing, I definitely want the Phrozen one. If I ever win the lottery, I will find a used DWS-029 or whatever replaces it. Pretty sure that I will be perfectly happy with Phrozen.
The M5S Pro results are painful. Clearly no AA enabled, way overexposed, and the glossy finish of the resin all are working against you here. This printer if you take the 30 minutes to run the inbuilt calibration feature can put out some of the most crispiest and flawless prints you've ever seen, as its XY resolution is sub 25 microns same as the Phrozen printer you've got there. If this were my video I'd have run the same resin in each printer, and taken the time to calibrate the exposure for each. Sadly I don't have access to all these machines, so I'd just finish by saying I hope you make this video again but with the appropriate methodology.
@@Nyitemare sweet. I'm pretty sure it will work just fine as my first resin printer and it was cheap enough that I can get a better one once I master how to use the one I have
The best quality still appears to be the plastic (HIPS) figures from the paint sets - by FAR😉 - so personally I would rather buy that than mess around with (toxic)resin!
🖌🎨 Only TWO DAYS LEFT to grab the Squidmar 2024 Infinity Airbrush!🎨🖌
and while you're at it, grab yourself some paint sets and the Squidmar Wet Palette:
harderairbrush.com/pages/squidmar-release-2024-inf
Your tried saturn 3? Its really good
Hey guys, Firstly i woul like to say i love your work an have been a follower for almost a year now and look forward to every video (on both channels ;) )
This leads me onto trying to buy all the ltd. edition Squid stuff. I signed up for and then was the first to buy the Infinity (New one), i have recieved my paints and palette which are awesome, but every time i try check on the progress of the airbrush, H&S keep telling me it's coming soon or being made etc etc. It's been almost 5 weeks now since they took my money but no brush. Anyway, is there any leverage you have over at H&S to get them moving a bit faster, i don't mind waiting a few weeks, but when it's a case of 5 and more..... no no no especially as they took the payment there and then?
@@McShimi hey man, send me an email on our website and I'll look in to your order:)
Extend ut till Friday the 1st
@@noelkilgarriff5981 hey man, unfortunately we can't extent the airbrush campaign. But send me an email on our website, let me see what I can do for you as a one off.
You should have displayed the exact printer Settings you used for each print... and what resin you used.... this would have been very interesting to see.
And follow up with the same resin and layer thickness settings.
Agreed. I know they said they used recommended settings and resin but from my understanding the resin makes a lot of difference. The same reason in different printers would be a good test I think.
that would not work. 6 differences resin 3d printers and I can tell you 2 important things... first, even if you use the same resin and same layer height, all the printers behave differently, as an example, the light dispersion technology that each printers uses. Second you ALWAYS has to came up with your own settings, why? because the "recommended" settings are like a guide because that doesn't take in to a consideration stuff like ambient humidity and ambient and resin temperature, among others variables. Specially those 2, impact tremendously the outcome of the miniature. 3d printers are like woman..., even if you date one, the second one is totally different and the one you learn with the other, most of the time don't apply to the next... and they will be piss!!. Same the printers.. you use the same parameters from one printer to other and.. it will piss and screw your print hahahhaha XD. Resin 3d Printing is a hobby by itself guys.... @squidmarMiniatures
Yeah, looks like some over exposure and different layer heights. it doesn't make like much of an apples to apples comparison when there doesn't appear to be any dialing in like using a test print matrix and selecting the best, using the same media for each, and same layer heights (when possible)
I have exactly this Anycubic printer and i never had the problem with the layer lines. It's Hard for me to compare the degree of the details with something because it is my first one 😅 but i am very happy with it, it is very beginnen friendly
they used ABS-LIKE RESIN (trash) and HD Resin... both cost ~25€ (in Germany). All my Printers (Anycubic and Elegoo) print perfect. Its just show :)
@@EinfachScheisse Don't resin shops have Benchy previews?
had a photon mono for years now. it's able to print better than that one. I think it's either the settings or the resin really.
you can probably print with 30-40% thinner layers, which gives it almost no stepping. also knowing how to orient your model helps. good resin (not expensive, but good) goes a long way too. and often layer lines might just be you over or undercooking your resin. also dont print when the resin is too cold most resins like to be easy 30°c+
I’ve got 3 different 3D printers and I pretty much only use my Photon Mono and get great results. It’s definitely over exposed which is why it lost definition and is shiny.
The J55 does print with support, either a water soluble (wss150) or one you blast off (sup710), they have post processed the minis before sending them. I use one almost daily in my job, its main strength is the multimaterial and colour options and I wouldn't use one for minis purely as the build material is roughly 500 USD per kg.
$500 😲😲😲
@@yeahboiwahoo This exact. The only Additive (3d print) processes that don’t require supports are Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) [supports are required if printing metal though due to heat] and Binder Jet, as the build material supports the printed geometry. However, neither are optimal for scale miniatures that we appreciate in the hobby with their rougher surface texture.
We use one as well and I can confirm what he says.
Also you can print the model in full color and design.
@@mandalorianknight7002dose power bed printing require supports?
I imagine the dimensional stability of the final product is also a major factor for its inended application...
The DWS is insane, it almost still looks like a computer program's 3d render but in real life.
I work with DWS Systems for 8 years now, I want to get myself 029XC soon. Those machines are just the best there is.
disappointed that you didn't prime all the minis to give them all the same surface texture/quality to make comparisons easier and fairer. the glossyness of some resins make them look less detailed then they actually are and the opposite is true of matt resins.
The surface matters though. There's a reason that GW plastic injections aren't treated to have a more glossy surface.
Came to say the same thing. It evens the field.
Or just use the same resin. More expensive printers should take more types of resin.
@@CTimmerman That's not necessarily true, most manufacturers will have a specific resin they produce or recommend for their printers, it very much depends on how that printer functions, sure there are 3rd party resins that are more geared up than stock resins, but if you're a first time printer, you're not going to do that
problem is that a lot of primers have some filling properties about them that would obscure the layer line difference. While I do understand where you are coming from (part of me agrees), I do see a case for looking at the bare part in it's best according to the manufacturer. They put together a system to produce an end result so it would only be fair to see what the manufacturer can demonstrate. Plus some prints might need to stay clear for their intended purpose and layer lines may make a difference (lenses, prisms and windows)
Love your work, guys. I'm rocking an Anycubic m3, and the biggest problem with my minis is my paint job, not the layer lines 😅
I feel very seen by this comment.
This is so true, I also ask people, painting for golden demon? No, buy the cheapest one, yes buy a slightly more expensive one ;)
@@Lfcsweden-n5m If you can see the layer lines that's going to mess with drybrushing and washes, anything above that is...vanity, until you get to golden demon.
@@stephenrider6107 usually layers lines are easily avoidably by optimizing the printer and positiong of the model and so on. Also priming miniatures and prepping prior to printing fixes most of these problems.
@@Lfcsweden-n5m Or melting the layer lines with topical plastic glue perhaps.
Dude the White Vault is fantastic! I listened to the whole thing over the summer 2022 while painting my Night Haunt, and it is my no. 1 favorite podcast of all time! Did not expect it to pop up!
Yeah me too, except it was our winter. I loved listening to that, hearing the sound effects, the music, and the story as it progressed. I still go back and listen to it from time to time. Excellent series.
Oh my goodness! You're sponsored by the White Vault!! That's amazing! I've been listening since day 1! That's amazing!
Back in 99 I was working in Hong Kong and drifted past a high end Tech store with a brand new just released Pioneer 42" Plasma TV in the Window retailing for a Whopping $10,000, which is an event that routinely pops into my mind when I see an equally impressive piece of cutting edge tech today like that printer... as it reminds me that in a relatively short amount of time the bar for entry will drop so low that we'll struggle to understand how something so ubiquitous and cheap now was so expense just a few short years ago..
20 years from now that high end Printer selling for $100,000 today would be the entry level model you'd buy if your were working on a tight budget. for a fraction of a fraction of its current price tag..
Even looking at filament printers today, they are nowhere near as detailed as the consumer resin one
Back in 99 some offices still had floppies around. Not ten years later they were gone, replaced by CDR and hard drives. And now we can store a terabyte of data on a chip the size of a thumb nail.
I'm not sure if prices for 3D printers will drop that much in 20 years, though. It's pretty niche compared to a TV or computer.
The White Vault is so good you guys. Really really good lovecraftian horror. Great video Squid guys!
White Vault was pretty good. You should check out the Fathom Derelict podcast.
@@bryancaron3582 I will! Thanks.
That phrozen 8k resin is reallya cheat code in a bottle. I would love to see you print with all of the printers using that resin. Maybe pour it into the heygears bottle
I've used my Saturn 2 for a few years and have that thing dialed in to the point there are no layer lines printing at 30 microns. That thing has been an absolute workhorse for me
I use a Mars 4 Ultra and print at .02mm. I dont see any layer lines, so I'm curious what your layer height was for these?
This. They said it in the video, they used the "recommended settings" from the manufacturer. And the recommended settings are almost always 0.05, which is really bad for printing minis if you're aiming for quality.
I wouldn't be happy with any of the prints they made using home printers. My very old Elegoo Saturn 1 does better prints with zero layer lines. Everything depends on the settings and the resin used.
I got a mars 3 and also print at 0.02mm. I hardly ever see layers lines. I get comparing stock resin recommendations, but it really doesn't show off quality. I would have at least done same layer height on all or smallest layer height of each printer.
I really think if you're getting layer lines on any current elegoo, anycubic or phrozen printer, that's entirely due to the settings not the capability of the printer.
Elegoo rules! So much! I have a mars 2 pro. It's literally the beat beginner printer. Then when you get the hang of it, move to a larger model.
honestly I just had my hands on Mars5 Ultra, and I am left speechless seeing how bad the quality of the first two in the video is when comparing. And need to say that the price tag is lower too.
@catchapl I bet you're loving that tilt feature! So fucking cool. But yeah, super weird that they didn't all use the same layer heights or bring in the Elegoo Mars or Saturn series, since they are REALLY cheap compared to a lot of what they showed, and arguably a lot better.
Just bought the paint set, looking forward to giving them a try, and see how they compare with the array of Citadel paints I have! much cheaper too for the amount you get so thank you for that!
Hey guys! Just got back into Warhammer 40K and love your channel, thoroughly enjoyed the Manta and War Titan series. You got me excited to start painting my (20 year old) backlog and maybe even repaint some of the miniatures I did when I was 15 years old. Just got the wet pallet and all three paint sets and figuring out my color schemes. My only disappointment was that I received a second bottle of Violet Red in the Dark Future Set instead of a bottle of Magenta, but I don't think I'll use the purple all that much anyway. Looking forward to your next big project!
Hey man, sorry about the mistake in the set. If change your mind about getting the paint replaced, please send me an email in a reasonable time and we'll sort it.:)
@@SquidmarMiniaturesThanks for the offer, but I live in Canada so let's just avoid all the shipping costs for a single bottle of paint.
Why using different resin? The simple fact that a resin is darker than another affects the details, because the UV are stopped more efficiently between layers and affects light bleeding. Also factory settings are often overexposed to avoid failures (temperature of the room, resin used etc...), so tweaks are needed to decrease exposure.
Anycubic is great if you wanna try buggy, first-gen hard/software. I had a Mono X and even after years of updates, no proper Anti-aliasing. I just compensated by reducing layer heights :)
We've unfortunately had the same experience, this isnt our first anycubic (its our 4th) and we've had the same problem with resin and FDM printers. Its funny how they used to be more user friendly 5 years ago than they are today.
it's pretty much equal for all chitu-based printers, they all have their own bugs or other cons made by vendor without any reason
For ~$400 the details looks like a great beginner intro for home printing, to learn how to do it. Trimming, cleaning, ventilation fans, curing gear, cleaning solution, etc., etc., is a huge investment in time and money, and gotta say, not all of us are that committed yet 😀
We're still on the fence our selves even if it's part of our job 😅
I have a mars 3 Pro and to be honest, there's soooo many variables that affect print quality, especially in low quality resin (or mid)... From temperature of the resin container , to the amount of humidity etc. I think that's why "other peoples settings" isn't working most of the time. I've had to play around SOOOO many times until I got some insane prints, that I couldn't even see the defects. And I think the newer printers are even more crazy, with self heating beds and moving resin reservoir. I am definitely looking at the Saturn 5 Ultra with sparkling eyes :D haha
@@Majdaryeah resin printing settings are specific to each individual user due to the weather in that area. Going with the manufacturer recommendation for settings is fine for a place to start but doing calibration prints is mandatory if you want the best print out of the machine
look up FDM figurines. theyre getting really good these days and are a lot less hassle. theyre also cheaper. that is if youre planning to not print 100s of figurines and sell em, cause in those cases its better to do Resin.
@@SquidmarMiniatures Your channel has "miniatures" in the title, and as learning to sculpt or waiting for prints to make molds of takes longer than printing your own, 3D printing miniatures will increase in popularity.
using the printers without optimizing the settings and using different resins for each printer makes the comparison pretty much pointless
My thoughts exactly. It’s pretty clear they’re not exactly authoritative on resin printing either.
It's the resin recommended by the brands for the home printers, using the settings they recommended us to use. So this is comparing the experience a home maker would have when grabbing their first printer and making their first prints.
Yeah, We have a printer sent from Anycubic using stock recommended setting that are for just getting a print to work no matter what(Not for fine quality), A mini 8k that has been fiddled with to make it more optimal for minis and the other 3 machines being either locked down completely , professionally tuned by a pro and one that doesn't even use sla printing technology...
@@Brodoodle Hey Brodoodle, we have not calibrated or done any "professional adjustments" to any of the home 3d printers. All three of them have been using settings and resins as recommended by the brands.
@@SquidmarMiniatures that’s not how resin printing works. You know that. Those settings on bottles are to ensure *something* prints. They are not for quality and the range on bottles is very wide to ensure people get *some* result. The least you could’ve done was print some validation matrices to tune exposure. Would’ve cost you an hour or two, would’ve made the video make more sense. Also, why would you possibly compare differently pigmented resins. Of course some of those catch light better than others. Why not prime the models first then? Siraya Tech’s Navy Grey looks infinitely better out of the box than an average standard grey resin, but after priming the models those differences go away.
I think a lot of the softness on the Anycubic probably comes from the ACF film. It's a blurry film that's designed for speed not necessarily detail
A D2 would probably be better.
yes ACF Film sucks for tabletop. i changed it to a pfa film and this is awesome but the D2 is mutch better
My prints come out great. Just gotta tune in the settings 👌
I would put my money on overexposure before the film
Film? As in a skin that forms on top of the resin?
Hey! Just want to say I'm a big fan of yours, thank you for the content you make! I just bought a Phrozen printer, cleaning and curing station after watching one of your other videos and am happy to see that it compares well to these other printers!
One thing that would be nice to see, is where to set up a printer in your home. I've seen many videos about how to optimize builds and get the best print quality, but not as much on where it is safe to setup in your home and what kind of home setup options you should look at. I'm sure you have your plate full with videos, but that is something I think would be helpful for those who are getting into the 3d printing hobby!
Cheers!
1. Awesome vid
2. White vault is AWESOME
3. No saturn 4 Ultra 😢
The White Vault is one of the few stories that actively makes me uncomfortable to exist. I love it so much. I'm from a place that can have white outs from snow, so it's a familiar sense to me
I think the comparison would benefit from using optimum settings and the same resin for each print. Obviously there will be a massive difference between an 2k printer using basic resin and 8k printer with the proper 8k or equivalent resin. The video is still cool, but not a great way to make an informed decision
Hey man, while i do agree - with this test, we've asked the brands to send us their own recommended resins and settings. Something as a first time buyer - you'd probably listen too. I'm 100% sure there are ways to optimize all these printers to get a better result with some testing. But for an "out of box" comparison, i think each brand had a fair chance to give us their best :)
@@SquidmarMiniatures I think it's valid to say it's "out of box" but I'd say most of this hobby is not out of box. GW obviously recommends their paints and their tools to work on their models but that doesn't mean the best experience or quality.
Still an interesting video and the channel isn't primarily focused on 3d printing so I get it. Going in, I was expecting a bit more like the paint brand comparison.
Weta Workshop and other special effects companies use the J55 printers for things like really detailed eyes etc in props and creatures. Very cool tech. But hit the nail on the head , it’s not aimed at printing minis. Great video 🙂
You have to adjust the print layer height! Set it to the lowest millimeter it will go. It’ll take longer to print, but it’s worth it.
So funny to see you butcher White Vault. You guys are awesome. :)
Just got your paint sets in the mail today!!!!!!
The texture is matt because it's overexexpose.
No matter if it's a cheap or an expensive printer, if it's overexposed it will look like trash and have almost bo details.
I've been using a photon m5 for a year and I'm getting good results.
There is so many parameters in a 3D printer, you can't just go blind and expect it to work.
It looks like you haven't oriented your prints the same way every single time, which could contribute to the differences, but i might be wrong :) Great video as always guys :)
Except for the first printer, I didn't really notice any difference between the rest of them. You should also try Uniformation GK2 and GK3. A lot of praise as the bests in the class.
This comparison is worthless, if you use different resins you need at least prime them. Not to mention calibrating resins, setting AA, using ACF film... I'm almost certain anycubic can match phrozen if configured properly
Ofc it can, it’s hardly any difference at al :)
Those prints look slike overexposured and not cleaned propertly... I have Anycubic M3 Premium with 8k resolution, where this printer is not the most expenswe and high-end printer and my prints looks sharp as hell...
Worthwhile for people just using the default settings.
@@CTimmerman problem with resin print is their are no default settings bottle to bottle things change no where near as standard as fdm print has become.
@CTimmerman But according to another comment of theirs they didn't use the default settings, they were in contact with the manufacturers and used what they told them. Most people aren't calling the printer manufacturer for recommendations if they're the 'default settings' type of person.
WOO HOO - Got a bite chunked out of my name!!! Great work as always team, super entertaining and informative vids. Keep them coming!
This isn't fair u guys just want me to spend all my hard earned money on a sick 3-D printer which I really really want to do. Thanks for the updated info. U guys are the best.
A good video, honestly. It felt more like a "brand vs brand" video rather than a printer vs printer, but that's still a fair comparison to make! A beginner needs to know what brands to listen to and which to not and that sometimes it's just better to finetune it from their settings and find what resin works best for you.
I have the anycubic mono 5s pro. I love the printer but absolutely hate anycubic resin. I have been using Sunlu's 14k and abs-like resin. I have been getting some pretty crisp prints but it took some time to tune.
The most expensive printed actual hairs on the dwarf beard, that's very lore accurate. Must be an AI feature.
I love my Phrozen Mighty 8K, but I do wish it had components like the other printers have. Like a built in heater, handles on the vat tray, an auto pour in, and a holder for your built plate to let excess resin to drip back in.
Nearly all the same wishes for me but I found DIY solutions since it's such a solid printer, i don't care for included self heating as I just transfer my air heater i got on ammazon into the printer i will be running so I don't have to keep paying for that feature in newer printers I upgrade to.
I've been looking at getting that Phrozen Mini for a while now, I just currently don't have the space for a work station to print minis or to clean/cure them, good to know that despite it being relatively cheap, it's still a great choice for novice printers
I have an M5s and the quality is bad but speed is where it excels, it all depends what you care about. I printed a warhound on it and the quality at that scale was fine and the speed unbeatable for the price
what I see is that you used different resins on printers that were not calibrated. Typically more expensive printers just come with extra features, easy of use, and faster print times. The quality doesn't change that much. If you want an actually comparison, use the same resin on all the printers and use the cones of calibration to make sure they are all calibrated. Then redo these prints. I bet you will find that these print qualities will look much closer to each other.
I would feel scammed if i spent $65K on a printer just for it to be slightly better than a $350 one. Good on you Tomik and Bellgarde.
I love the J55 and I'm very fortunate to have hands on experience with it through my job!
8:45 - I will neither confirm nor deny. That show is what got me into writing audio fiction. I frickin' love it
The White Vault is so gooooood"!
Yass
I've got a Mars 3 and it prints significantly better than that first dwarf print! I've got minis here with no layer lines visible, using a bog standard ABS-like resin. Your settings for exposure time and layer line heights etc will make such a difference and, respectfully, I doubt that the team calibrated every resin and every printer they used for optimal quality. Something to bear in mind if shopping for a printer and using this video as a guide.
Tbh I think comparisons for detail really need to be made post priming. Resin makes a huge difference in how detail is perceived on a finished print. The one I use looks much softer than other resins I've used (due to the lower amount of pigment making surfaces slightly translucent and overall more glossy), but after priming there is no/very little difference
at 4:57 do you mean smooth or soft? I agree it looks smooth but somehwo layers still are visible. I would not expect any of the resin plastics to be soft though.
The angle of the print definitely affects the outcome. I can print really small stuff and it it's angled right the layer lines are almost invisible. A light coat of extra thin cement to lightly touching the print with fine sanding sticks finish it up.
You also have to note with the Heygears that it uses their resin only as they do not allow you to make any profile changes. Also their resin is double the cost in most cases.
id agree Frodo with the ring on would be the best mini :D
What slicer programs did you use? Sometimes the failures you are seeing come from the slicer. Sometimes you can reslice in the same slicer or another slicer and get better results.
Interesting to see the comparison with the ultra high end printers and a useful video for those home users new to the 3D Printer world and looking to use the manufacturers recommended resins and settings. As ever, the usual bunch of 3d printing "experts"/bores/nerds (delete as appropriate) are always going to rant about their enormous expertise and favourite printers - your politeness towards those is impressive 🤣
I have an anycubic photon M3 and still using factory settings and works just fine. Plus, you're using different resins, the 8k printer is using what at first glance looks like 8k resin, try printing on that with regular resin
8k is regular resin, has been the standard for almost 3 years. It's just a name.
@@SquidmarMiniatures if you say so I'll take your word but I've seen prints on a printer with the same settings with different resin and the difference y noticeable, barely, but noticeable
@@alvaroaugustomeridio Every resin is different, absolutely. What i'm saying is; its not a magical completely different thing. It's just phrozens resin and they decided to use the keyword 8k to make it sound fancy. The quality of the resin is leaps and bounds better than anycubic. But as we've said; we used the recommended resin and settings provided by each producer.
is that anycubic using ACF film instead of Fep? I hate the ACF film
One thing that would have made this a much more objective test would have been to use the SAME resin for all of the printers. Changing the resin types with each test doesn't show the capabilities of the printers or the qualities of the prints. Glossy vs Matte can be an issue because they're formulated differently.
I work at a prototyper and print my minis on company time on "'the big boy" 😂
Yall should have added saturn 4 Ultra to the mix, it prints amazing quality and fast, and has large build plate, the M5s comes with ACF release film which is cloudy and adds to ligt bleed and softness, PFA/nFEP and FEP are the clear release films that are better for sharpness, so the M5s just isnt reaaaally made for high detail minis in the stock config 🤷♂️🤷♂️ great video as always ❤
Nice video, you´ll find that the printer isn´t all that determines the end quality, starting with the resins and settings, ending with the postprocess cleaning and everything inbetween can vastly change the outcome on whatever printer
Looks to me like on the m5s you printed with the 0.1 layer height settings. Obviously really gonna see those layer lines when they're double the size
Is it possible to paint ultramarines with the complete squidmar paintset? :)
You're telling me I can print a home for $330?
I own the Sonic Mini 8K, and I have always been blown away by its details. Phrozens are not a commonly bought brand I've learnt but its a shame because the printers are genuinely some of the highest detailed ones I've seen.
What resin did yall use for each printer. Quality control wise that's a pretty important factor lol
Curious what you guys think about the Sonic Mini 8Ks vs the Sonic Mighty 8k? Thinking of taking the plunge on a 3d printer, mostly from watching your work over the years.
Hey guys I love your videos and the inspiration you bring to us all. I also love the music in your videos but I just found a handfull of the tracks so I wanted to ask if you could share it also. Do you have a spotify list?
This is exactly why I don’t even dream of getting into printing. I’ve seen some crazy gorgeous prints made on 8k affordable printers, so it’s clear that the user is very much a factor here. I’m not willing nor capable of investing the required time and effort to get that skill. Also I don’t have a space where I could set it up, so it’s not a difficult decision for me to make.
Were these printers all calibrated for their specific resins and using same layer height? Cause Anycubic clearly was using rougher settings and no AA
They were all using the recommended settings from the brands, using their printers using the guides they asked us to follow. We've made this video as an exampe of what you can expect printing your first mini straight out of the box and comparing it - to some of the insane things you can have from the high end printers.
@@SquidmarMiniatures For education purposes its fine. Cheaper printers can still produce way higher quality as correct exposure is very reliant room temperature and brand recommonded settings can't answer that without calibration prints.
@@samael.projects 100%, any printer can get better with time spent on it. With that said though, we've used many anycubics in the past, and we've never been able to match the quality of other brands especially when using their resins. With the exception of the first photon when it came out, just because it didnt really have any competition in the cheap consumer market at the time of release. ;)
Don't really know what you've tried to achieve, but DWS-029 just have extremely small pixel size (0.02mm pixel size), so it's ofc will give better details than M5S Pro which has 10.1" screen(0.025mm pixel size) but also utilizes ACF film which isn't good for small details. From perspective of price/performance Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra would just shred every single printer you decided to compare here
Its not the pixle size that made a difrence, i need a jewelers lens to tell the difrence between my phrozen 8k vs my mars 5 ultra especially when both are running .02mm layer hights, in this video it looks like anycubic told them to print at .1mm layer hight in their speed resin while the phrozen recommend .05 on their High resolution resin...
It's been my experience that the weird textures and slimy finish have been because of the resin. Sometimes it is not mixed enough, sometimes the temperature is bad, or sometimes the cleaning IPA is too dirty. I have a couple of resin printers that are calibrated as close to perfect as possible, and, if I forget to mix the resin after being idle for a couple of days, the prints turn out just as gross. Food for thought. It might be worth it to release that Dwarf STL and see what your viewers can come up with on their printers.
Wow, my anycubic doesn't look anything like what you made. Hardly any layer lines and super detailed.
Thanks for the video guys. Would you try swapping the resins between the printers so we can see if its more a resin issue vs a printer issue?
I use the m5s pro with abs like resin and the quality is much better than here shown. Settings are super important when printing resin but good video overall sadly the "cheap" printers are shown like they are not so good, i recomend the m5s pro eays to use and with some tweaking print super good minis and bigger stuff too.
Great review, but I would have put the elegoo saturn 2 in place of the anycubic, I think the saturn 2 would match the phrozen printer for quality but I guess you cannot compare too many printers
At around 3:05 that almost looks like a resin problem. I had something similar happen when I used some really expired eco-resin.
BTW, look up the Cones of Calibration and if the recommended settings don't pass, try again after you get something that does.
what layer thickness did you guys use 50um or 30um and did you guys use anti-aliasing?
Hey guys, great video, bit I think you should have calibrated the printers (1h max) and set st least the same layer hight.
Also, I do think that the expensive printers aren't calibrated for fine details too.
With it's auto feed from those inverted stupid proprietary bottles that have to be shoved all the way down the channel in the back, I wouldn't have thought of the HeyGears as being particularly easy to clean 🤔
Do you have to remove the bottle just to remove the vat?
Does the auto feed have to be flushed through if you're changing resin? especially if you go from grey to clear for example.
Been a partner with DWS for years. Tech is so good but the price is impossible to maintain
Do you guys have a discount code for the 3d printer from Amazon?
I get the same quality as the expensive ones with a Saturn 3 at 0.02mm layer height with the elegoo cheap gray resin. If you have any layer lines you can add 2 points of of antialiasing.
Been watching this channel the last few weeks, as I started getting back into Warhammer. Haven’t played since 4th addition in middle school. Inspiring me to improve my miniature painting and actually think about lighting when I paint them.
Do you know one parameter in slicer software called “layer thickness”.
Love the video concept, just ask that in future tests are showed with a black primer + zenithal through an airbrush. The differences in resin finishes are doing a lot for these in terms of camera shots. The more matte resins really photograph a ton better, which makes this harder for us as the audience to really get the true comparison.
Not a big fan of Anycubic, but imho you didn't understand the principle how this machine should be used. By the way, regarding to the recommended settings - recommended for what kind of job?
The problem with Anycubic lately is they give you a "default premade" exposure test... that only works for 0.05 layer size, so you need to custom make your own REFR for smaller layers (the machine should be able to go to 0.02... I have the M5 and it goes to 0.03 no problem), the problem is to know precisely the order and location of each part of the REFR.
Also, how you place the model in the machine changes a lot of the final result. In my experience, Anycubic's post-sale is not the best company (but considering is one of the few brands with cheap, quality printers able to test up to 8 times per print, I think it's a good compromise with the aftersales support).
I had a Photon S prior to this one, and using the same resin the M5 has given me superior detail in the same layer height, and faster (not that I mind that part, frankly, but less exposure time means more life for the screen after all).
Hey squidmar, I know it may seem odd but could you each pick and print a high detail 3d print animal
Then both paint them and try make them look as realistic as possible? I feel it would be surprising awesome
Heygears is a good printer, and they make their process postprocess workflow incredibly simple. The issue is that they charge an arm and a leg, and if they ever go bankrupt you can no longer print with their printer since it requires connection to their servers.
I'm just getting into the hobby and want to get a airbrush but the cost is just a bit out of budget and I don't want to get some cheap crap. One day I would like to get the squidmar airbrush.
There isnt such a thing as "no support" there is support in the stratasys polyjet printer, its a gel that is removed with a water jet washer (there is a version with soluble supports).
What are the layer sizes in microns?
The Anycubic needs to be tuned for your specific conditions - room temperature, humidity, the specific resin (even the specific bottle as they can vary), the kinds of prints you're intending to make, and the specific printer (those can vary too). Dissing the output from an untuned 3D printer compared to a (almost certainly tuned) $100k printer... seems pretty unfair.
That'd be like buying a new airbrush, using the default needle/nozzle, sticking unthinned "ready for airbrush" paint inside, yolo'ing the pressure from a new compressor and pushing the trigger all the way all the time, and then comparing it to an expert using a good airbrush with tuned settings.
ive been 3d printing for several years now with the photon mono you should get sharper detail than than id say you would need to print some calibration tests could be simple under exposure, but there are so many reasons for print issues from exposure time,lift speed if the printer has old or damged fep film and so on, also different resins all print differently. unfortunatly you cant just bung a file on the printer and hit go sometimes takes lots of messing around and i dont thinks its fair to compare a £300 with a 65000 grand printer!
I'll print that Dwarf model for you. I have done the master printing of models for quite a few miniature manufacturers including Modiphius and Mantic
Once I have a space for printing, I definitely want the Phrozen one. If I ever win the lottery, I will find a used DWS-029 or whatever replaces it. Pretty sure that I will be perfectly happy with Phrozen.
The M5S Pro results are painful. Clearly no AA enabled, way overexposed, and the glossy finish of the resin all are working against you here. This printer if you take the 30 minutes to run the inbuilt calibration feature can put out some of the most crispiest and flawless prints you've ever seen, as its XY resolution is sub 25 microns same as the Phrozen printer you've got there. If this were my video I'd have run the same resin in each printer, and taken the time to calibrate the exposure for each. Sadly I don't have access to all these machines, so I'd just finish by saying I hope you make this video again but with the appropriate methodology.
Of course this video comes out the day after i order the first printer you tested
Many comments from owners mention you can get much better results with time and effort though so it likely will still be great
@@Nyitemare sweet. I'm pretty sure it will work just fine as my first resin printer and it was cheap enough that I can get a better one once I master how to use the one I have
The best quality still appears to be the plastic (HIPS) figures from the paint sets - by FAR😉 - so personally I would rather buy that than mess around with (toxic)resin!
hi, do you think elegoo mars 5 ultra can beat phrozen sonic mini 8K?
Hey man, we've seen a lot of comments about it being up there, i have not used the elegoos since the 3, if i'm not mistaken.