🖌🎨 Only TWO DAYS LEFT to grab the Squidmar 2024 Infinity Airbrush!🎨🖌 and while you're at it, grab yourself some paint sets and the Squidmar Wet Palette: harderairbrush.com/pages/squidmar-release-2024-inf
Hey guys, Firstly i woul like to say i love your work an have been a follower for almost a year now and look forward to every video (on both channels ;) ) This leads me onto trying to buy all the ltd. edition Squid stuff. I signed up for and then was the first to buy the Infinity (New one), i have recieved my paints and palette which are awesome, but every time i try check on the progress of the airbrush, H&S keep telling me it's coming soon or being made etc etc. It's been almost 5 weeks now since they took my money but no brush. Anyway, is there any leverage you have over at H&S to get them moving a bit faster, i don't mind waiting a few weeks, but when it's a case of 5 and more..... no no no especially as they took the payment there and then?
The J55 does print with support, either a water soluble (wss150) or one you blast off (sup710), they have post processed the minis before sending them. I use one almost daily in my job, its main strength is the multimaterial and colour options and I wouldn't use one for minis purely as the build material is roughly 500 USD per kg.
@@yeahboiwahoo This exact. The only Additive (3d print) processes that don’t require supports are Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) [supports are required if printing metal though due to heat] and Binder Jet, as the build material supports the printed geometry. However, neither are optimal for scale miniatures that we appreciate in the hobby with their rougher surface texture.
I have exactly this Anycubic printer and i never had the problem with the layer lines. It's Hard for me to compare the degree of the details with something because it is my first one 😅 but i am very happy with it, it is very beginnen friendly
you can probably print with 30-40% thinner layers, which gives it almost no stepping. also knowing how to orient your model helps. good resin (not expensive, but good) goes a long way too. and often layer lines might just be you over or undercooking your resin. also dont print when the resin is too cold most resins like to be easy 30°c+
I’ve got 3 different 3D printers and I pretty much only use my Photon Mono and get great results. It’s definitely over exposed which is why it lost definition and is shiny.
Dude the White Vault is fantastic! I listened to the whole thing over the summer 2022 while painting my Night Haunt, and it is my no. 1 favorite podcast of all time! Did not expect it to pop up!
Back in 99 I was working in Hong Kong and drifted past a high end Tech store with a brand new just released Pioneer 42" Plasma TV in the Window retailing for a Whopping $10,000, which is an event that routinely pops into my mind when I see an equally impressive piece of cutting edge tech today like that printer... as it reminds me that in a relatively short amount of time the bar for entry will drop so low that we'll struggle to understand how something so ubiquitous and cheap now was so expense just a few short years ago.. 20 years from now that high end Printer selling for $100,000 today would be the entry level model you'd buy if your were working on a tight budget. for a fraction of a fraction of its current price tag..
You should have displayed the exact printer Settings you used for each print... and what resin you used.... this would have been very interesting to see.
Agreed. I know they said they used recommended settings and resin but from my understanding the resin makes a lot of difference. The same reason in different printers would be a good test I think.
disappointed that you didn't prime all the minis to give them all the same surface texture/quality to make comparisons easier and fairer. the glossyness of some resins make them look less detailed then they actually are and the opposite is true of matt resins.
@@CTimmerman That's not necessarily true, most manufacturers will have a specific resin they produce or recommend for their printers, it very much depends on how that printer functions, sure there are 3rd party resins that are more geared up than stock resins, but if you're a first time printer, you're not going to do that
problem is that a lot of primers have some filling properties about them that would obscure the layer line difference. While I do understand where you are coming from (part of me agrees), I do see a case for looking at the bare part in it's best according to the manufacturer. They put together a system to produce an end result so it would only be fair to see what the manufacturer can demonstrate. Plus some prints might need to stay clear for their intended purpose and layer lines may make a difference (lenses, prisms and windows)
I think the comparison would benefit from using optimum settings and the same resin for each print. Obviously there will be a massive difference between an 2k printer using basic resin and 8k printer with the proper 8k or equivalent resin. The video is still cool, but not a great way to make an informed decision
Hey man, while i do agree - with this test, we've asked the brands to send us their own recommended resins and settings. Something as a first time buyer - you'd probably listen too. I'm 100% sure there are ways to optimize all these printers to get a better result with some testing. But for an "out of box" comparison, i think each brand had a fair chance to give us their best :)
@@SquidmarMiniatures I think it's valid to say it's "out of box" but I'd say most of this hobby is not out of box. GW obviously recommends their paints and their tools to work on their models but that doesn't mean the best experience or quality. Still an interesting video and the channel isn't primarily focused on 3d printing so I get it. Going in, I was expecting a bit more like the paint brand comparison.
@@Lfcsweden-n5m If you can see the layer lines that's going to mess with drybrushing and washes, anything above that is...vanity, until you get to golden demon.
@@stephenrider6107 usually layers lines are easily avoidably by optimizing the printer and positiong of the model and so on. Also priming miniatures and prepping prior to printing fixes most of these problems.
For ~$400 the details looks like a great beginner intro for home printing, to learn how to do it. Trimming, cleaning, ventilation fans, curing gear, cleaning solution, etc., etc., is a huge investment in time and money, and gotta say, not all of us are that committed yet 😀
I have a mars 3 Pro and to be honest, there's soooo many variables that affect print quality, especially in low quality resin (or mid)... From temperature of the resin container , to the amount of humidity etc. I think that's why "other peoples settings" isn't working most of the time. I've had to play around SOOOO many times until I got some insane prints, that I couldn't even see the defects. And I think the newer printers are even more crazy, with self heating beds and moving resin reservoir. I am definitely looking at the Saturn 5 Ultra with sparkling eyes :D haha
@@Majdaryeah resin printing settings are specific to each individual user due to the weather in that area. Going with the manufacturer recommendation for settings is fine for a place to start but doing calibration prints is mandatory if you want the best print out of the machine
look up FDM figurines. theyre getting really good these days and are a lot less hassle. theyre also cheaper. that is if youre planning to not print 100s of figurines and sell em, cause in those cases its better to do Resin.
@@SquidmarMiniatures Your channel has "miniatures" in the title, and as learning to sculpt or waiting for prints to make molds of takes longer than printing your own, 3D printing miniatures will increase in popularity.
the first printer clearly just needed calibrating better. even if those are the settings they recommended, doesn't matter. you should do some tests to make sure its not over curing the resin.
100%. Dialing in your print is an art unto itself. And there are so many good calibration tools. Couple that with the RERF on Anycubic printers and you can get your printer/resin calibrated so much faster.
Weta Workshop and other special effects companies use the J55 printers for things like really detailed eyes etc in props and creatures. Very cool tech. But hit the nail on the head , it’s not aimed at printing minis. Great video 🙂
Been watching this channel the last few weeks, as I started getting back into Warhammer. Haven’t played since 4th addition in middle school. Inspiring me to improve my miniature painting and actually think about lighting when I paint them.
Anycubic is great if you wanna try buggy, first-gen hard/software. I had a Mono X and even after years of updates, no proper Anti-aliasing. I just compensated by reducing layer heights :)
We've unfortunately had the same experience, this isnt our first anycubic (its our 4th) and we've had the same problem with resin and FDM printers. Its funny how they used to be more user friendly 5 years ago than they are today.
It's the resin recommended by the brands for the home printers, using the settings they recommended us to use. So this is comparing the experience a home maker would have when grabbing their first printer and making their first prints.
Yeah, We have a printer sent from Anycubic using stock recommended setting that are for just getting a print to work no matter what(Not for fine quality), A mini 8k that has been fiddled with to make it more optimal for minis and the other 3 machines being either locked down completely , professionally tuned by a pro and one that doesn't even use sla printing technology...
@@Brodoodle Hey Brodoodle, we have not calibrated or done any "professional adjustments" to any of the home 3d printers. All three of them have been using settings and resins as recommended by the brands.
@@SquidmarMiniatures that’s not how resin printing works. You know that. Those settings on bottles are to ensure *something* prints. They are not for quality and the range on bottles is very wide to ensure people get *some* result. The least you could’ve done was print some validation matrices to tune exposure. Would’ve cost you an hour or two, would’ve made the video make more sense. Also, why would you possibly compare differently pigmented resins. Of course some of those catch light better than others. Why not prime the models first then? Siraya Tech’s Navy Grey looks infinitely better out of the box than an average standard grey resin, but after priming the models those differences go away.
The White Vault is one of the few stories that actively makes me uncomfortable to exist. I love it so much. I'm from a place that can have white outs from snow, so it's a familiar sense to me
Why using different resin? The simple fact that a resin is darker than another affects the details, because the UV are stopped more efficiently between layers and affects light bleeding. Also factory settings are often overexposed to avoid failures (temperature of the room, resin used etc...), so tweaks are needed to decrease exposure.
This isn't fair u guys just want me to spend all my hard earned money on a sick 3-D printer which I really really want to do. Thanks for the updated info. U guys are the best.
This comparison is worthless, if you use different resins you need at least prime them. Not to mention calibrating resins, setting AA, using ACF film... I'm almost certain anycubic can match phrozen if configured properly
Those prints look slike overexposured and not cleaned propertly... I have Anycubic M3 Premium with 8k resolution, where this printer is not the most expenswe and high-end printer and my prints looks sharp as hell...
@@CTimmerman problem with resin print is their are no default settings bottle to bottle things change no where near as standard as fdm print has become.
@CTimmerman But according to another comment of theirs they didn't use the default settings, they were in contact with the manufacturers and used what they told them. Most people aren't calling the printer manufacturer for recommendations if they're the 'default settings' type of person.
Hey! Just want to say I'm a big fan of yours, thank you for the content you make! I just bought a Phrozen printer, cleaning and curing station after watching one of your other videos and am happy to see that it compares well to these other printers! One thing that would be nice to see, is where to set up a printer in your home. I've seen many videos about how to optimize builds and get the best print quality, but not as much on where it is safe to setup in your home and what kind of home setup options you should look at. I'm sure you have your plate full with videos, but that is something I think would be helpful for those who are getting into the 3d printing hobby! Cheers!
I've been looking at getting that Phrozen Mini for a while now, I just currently don't have the space for a work station to print minis or to clean/cure them, good to know that despite it being relatively cheap, it's still a great choice for novice printers
I have an M5s and the quality is bad but speed is where it excels, it all depends what you care about. I printed a warhound on it and the quality at that scale was fine and the speed unbeatable for the price
Just bought the paint set, looking forward to giving them a try, and see how they compare with the array of Citadel paints I have! much cheaper too for the amount you get so thank you for that!
A good video, honestly. It felt more like a "brand vs brand" video rather than a printer vs printer, but that's still a fair comparison to make! A beginner needs to know what brands to listen to and which to not and that sometimes it's just better to finetune it from their settings and find what resin works best for you.
I've used my Saturn 2 for a few years and have that thing dialed in to the point there are no layer lines printing at 30 microns. That thing has been an absolute workhorse for me
I own the Sonic Mini 8K, and I have always been blown away by its details. Phrozens are not a commonly bought brand I've learnt but its a shame because the printers are genuinely some of the highest detailed ones I've seen.
This is exactly why I don’t even dream of getting into printing. I’ve seen some crazy gorgeous prints made on 8k affordable printers, so it’s clear that the user is very much a factor here. I’m not willing nor capable of investing the required time and effort to get that skill. Also I don’t have a space where I could set it up, so it’s not a difficult decision for me to make.
Anycubics are heap but you can get wayyyy better prints with them for sure The mono 4k would have been a better entry level start as it's on sale for under 200 constantly
The angle of the print definitely affects the outcome. I can print really small stuff and it it's angled right the layer lines are almost invisible. A light coat of extra thin cement to lightly touching the print with fine sanding sticks finish it up.
Yall should have added saturn 4 Ultra to the mix, it prints amazing quality and fast, and has large build plate, the M5s comes with ACF release film which is cloudy and adds to ligt bleed and softness, PFA/nFEP and FEP are the clear release films that are better for sharpness, so the M5s just isnt reaaaally made for high detail minis in the stock config 🤷♂️🤷♂️ great video as always ❤
This. They said it in the video, they used the "recommended settings" from the manufacturer. And the recommended settings are almost always 0.05, which is really bad for printing minis if you're aiming for quality. I wouldn't be happy with any of the prints they made using home printers. My very old Elegoo Saturn 1 does better prints with zero layer lines. Everything depends on the settings and the resin used.
I got a mars 3 and also print at 0.02mm. I hardly ever see layers lines. I get comparing stock resin recommendations, but it really doesn't show off quality. I would have at least done same layer height on all or smallest layer height of each printer. I really think if you're getting layer lines on any current elegoo, anycubic or phrozen printer, that's entirely due to the settings not the capability of the printer.
honestly I just had my hands on Mars5 Ultra, and I am left speechless seeing how bad the quality of the first two in the video is when comparing. And need to say that the price tag is lower too.
@catchapl I bet you're loving that tilt feature! So fucking cool. But yeah, super weird that they didn't all use the same layer heights or bring in the Elegoo Mars or Saturn series, since they are REALLY cheap compared to a lot of what they showed, and arguably a lot better.
I have an anycubic photon M3 and still using factory settings and works just fine. Plus, you're using different resins, the 8k printer is using what at first glance looks like 8k resin, try printing on that with regular resin
@@SquidmarMiniatures if you say so I'll take your word but I've seen prints on a printer with the same settings with different resin and the difference y noticeable, barely, but noticeable
@@alvaroaugustomeridio Every resin is different, absolutely. What i'm saying is; its not a magical completely different thing. It's just phrozens resin and they decided to use the keyword 8k to make it sound fancy. The quality of the resin is leaps and bounds better than anycubic. But as we've said; we used the recommended resin and settings provided by each producer.
Hey guys! Just got back into Warhammer 40K and love your channel, thoroughly enjoyed the Manta and War Titan series. You got me excited to start painting my (20 year old) backlog and maybe even repaint some of the miniatures I did when I was 15 years old. Just got the wet pallet and all three paint sets and figuring out my color schemes. My only disappointment was that I received a second bottle of Violet Red in the Dark Future Set instead of a bottle of Magenta, but I don't think I'll use the purple all that much anyway. Looking forward to your next big project!
Hey man, sorry about the mistake in the set. If change your mind about getting the paint replaced, please send me an email in a reasonable time and we'll sort it.:)
Nice video, you´ll find that the printer isn´t all that determines the end quality, starting with the resins and settings, ending with the postprocess cleaning and everything inbetween can vastly change the outcome on whatever printer
You also have to note with the Heygears that it uses their resin only as they do not allow you to make any profile changes. Also their resin is double the cost in most cases.
next time you use a resin printer do some cones of calibration tests with your resin and dial your settings in more. the manufacturer can only give you a ballpark typically higher to prevent failures.
One thing that would have made this a much more objective test would have been to use the SAME resin for all of the printers. Changing the resin types with each test doesn't show the capabilities of the printers or the qualities of the prints. Glossy vs Matte can be an issue because they're formulated differently.
It looks like you haven't oriented your prints the same way every single time, which could contribute to the differences, but i might be wrong :) Great video as always guys :)
Heygears is a good printer, and they make their process postprocess workflow incredibly simple. The issue is that they charge an arm and a leg, and if they ever go bankrupt you can no longer print with their printer since it requires connection to their servers.
Once I have a space for printing, I definitely want the Phrozen one. If I ever win the lottery, I will find a used DWS-029 or whatever replaces it. Pretty sure that I will be perfectly happy with Phrozen.
Love the video concept, just ask that in future tests are showed with a black primer + zenithal through an airbrush. The differences in resin finishes are doing a lot for these in terms of camera shots. The more matte resins really photograph a ton better, which makes this harder for us as the audience to really get the true comparison.
On the phrozen mini, the right hand is clearly not correctly printed, and yet you prefer it ? (and the left arm shows a white deposit, I don't know, it is resin ?) edit: nvm, I didn't realize the mini was in 3 parts.
At around 3:05 that almost looks like a resin problem. I had something similar happen when I used some really expired eco-resin. BTW, look up the Cones of Calibration and if the recommended settings don't pass, try again after you get something that does.
I´m so satisfied with my 99$ Anycubic Photon Mono 4k and just found out about tough resins (more bendy and not frigal). I would never suggest and pay more than 200€ for a resin printer.
I get the same quality as the expensive ones with a Saturn 3 at 0.02mm layer height with the elegoo cheap gray resin. If you have any layer lines you can add 2 points of of antialiasing.
ive been 3d printing for several years now with the photon mono you should get sharper detail than than id say you would need to print some calibration tests could be simple under exposure, but there are so many reasons for print issues from exposure time,lift speed if the printer has old or damged fep film and so on, also different resins all print differently. unfortunatly you cant just bung a file on the printer and hit go sometimes takes lots of messing around and i dont thinks its fair to compare a £300 with a 65000 grand printer!
If you just used their suggested printing settings, you are probably not getting the best result from your printer, at least not from the Anycubic and Phrozen ones. They absolutely need to be calibrated, and the result changes drastically. The Anycubic print looks way overexposed, so I doubt that is the best it can do. Also, put anti-aliasing on. However, the end result of the video won't change that much.
I have a two or three years old photon mono with ABS resin and the quality is WAY better that your Anycubic examples. Maybe you should have do some testprints and don't use the recommended settings
@@Nyitemare sweet. I'm pretty sure it will work just fine as my first resin printer and it was cheap enough that I can get a better one once I master how to use the one I have
I have the anycubic mono 5s pro. I love the printer but absolutely hate anycubic resin. I have been using Sunlu's 14k and abs-like resin. I have been getting some pretty crisp prints but it took some time to tune.
Sorry Lucas, but you did a poor job cleaning. The tell tale shine and chalky white residue is case in point. A well cleaned print should be almost matte, any bit that looks wet is excess resin. Additionally, the softness that you’re seeing on the Anycubic prints is over exposure which is killing your details and what looks like a larger layer height (.05mm I’m guessing?). While manufacturers have their suggested settings, every printer needs to be specifically tuned to get the best performance from that particular machine. Furthermore, what are your machine settings being used? This comparison is worthless without having control values such as layer heights
The white residue is from superglue, but agree with the rest. I gave them similar feedback for their previous video that was ignored, it's not a fair comparison if the settings aren't optimised for each printer
@@NikkiAnnMarie that could be, didn’t see that that dwarf was a split model til later. However, excess moisture or IPA when exposed to UV can leave behind a chalky finish
There probably would have been some utility in including something that cost maybe $2000 to 3500 that is more specific to the mini painting hobby needs (high resolution) Thanks for he video !
I have the Mono 5s Pro and you can get much better prints than shown here, it really feels like something has gone wrong with those prints. Not saying its the best, but this seems off.
Hey man, yeah as we said in the video - we've been using recommended settings we got when talking to the brand. Using the same supports for all prints. I think we should be able to get a better result from the m5 pro with more tweaking. But i find it interesting how poorly it performed with their own recommended settings and resin.
@@SquidmarMiniatures, I found that the recommended exposure setting from anycubic were about 0.7 seconds over what the cones of calibration suggested as the optimal exposure settings for the anycubic abs like pro v2 resin. So it’s likely your print was way over exposed.
$100K? Jesus....can you print out a full-sized dragon with that?? I agree that the second 3-D printer was awesome. I think that really expensive one does well with bigger objects. Maybe the dwarf and dragon were just too small.
I think you should redo this with each of he printers being optimized and and all using the same resin. There is no way to really compare these minis because so many bits of the process are completely different and, dare I say, rigged towards your favorite printers. All in all, I would say that this video is incredibly unprofessional and misleading. Its upsetting to se this sorta thing from a huge channel like yours, its really fueling the '3d printing isn't for broke people' idea. Anyways, Hope you guys do this again but with less bias and really trying to make the playing field even by having a mix of better optimization for each printer and using the same [or at least similar] resins.
Hey man, it's the resin recommended by the brands for the home printers. Using the settings the brands recommended us to use. It's not our fault or biasy they sent us the resin/printers/settings. I find it to be a good showcase of what you can expect as an unexperienced maker.
I have an Anycubic Ultra, and it doesn't print as bad as your Anycubic does.. Mine has actually very crisp prints, so i would kinda think your issue must have been the settings as that smooth surface is more likely to be the layers not completely curing before it starts a new one? I am a 100% going to buy another brand next time, but i would say for just printing minies, like small ones, it does a great and fine job - i think 3D printing is presented waaaay to much as a "every person can just have this at home and have fun" but the 3D printer focused channels will tell you 3D printing is a hobby and by no means a fun or small one.. If you live in an apartment like me you will need a little plant tent with ventilation to avoid poisoning yourself with the fumes, so it is by no means a small hobby.
Resin makes a big difference. If I use anycubic resin vs phrozen 4k resin with the same 3d printer, the level of details is massively different. The level of details shown in the video might be because of the resin and not the printer. I do not know about the polyjet printer, but it seems like a FDM printer, so not really in the same category than the resin printers.
I used to love Phrozen but as far as sub $500 printers go at the moment, the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra is objectively better than any of the sub $500 printers you're testing here.
Hey man, we always love testing new printers and it would be fun to try the 5 ultra. The previous Elegoos we've had - have not been nearly as good as the phrozen in reliability and quality. I would LOVE to see if the saturn 5 ultra can compete, or even outcompete. It's always great for us consumers when the quality is raised! :)
@@SquidmarMiniatures Hopefully they'll send you one. My initial plan was to get a Saturn 4 Ultra (apologies for 5 typo above) and use it alongside my Sonic Mini but I've ended up getting rid of the Sonic and having two Saturns instead. I guess a comparison to the Mars Ultra would be more fair but given that the price is almost the same between the Saturn and the Sonic, the choice is very simple. The Sonic is a bit faster but the Saturn beats it in every other way. The tilt release mechanism isn't just a gimmick, it's legit.
Own a 150$ anycubic, 350$ anycubic and a 350$ Phrozen. Can honestly say, nothing sets the prints aparts. They produce more or less the exact same quality of prints when they are tuned in. That extremely small difference that may appear in some prints won’t affect the outcome when the models are primed and painted. 95% of painters won’t see any difference of the end product. I’ve been printing for years and gone true numerous printers. It’s all about supports and the work prior to printing that make the most the most difference. Also the files themself ofc. So my recommendations, go for the one who has the best deals and don’t spend to much. Learn how to prepare files and support correctly and you will be happy as a clam ;)
Well of course the DWS is gonna come out really good. They have their printer and resin settings fully tested and calibrated compared to your "Factory Recommendations" for the cheaper printers.
the phrozen prints are clearly at a lower layer height so that's not a fair comparison tbh. I assume the anycubic is 50um and phrozen 20-30um while the SLS prints are probably 10-15um. Also the resin makes a huge difference for two reasons, first off the higher detail resin you used for the phrozen print physically cures sharper (has less bloom) (you might have over exposed the anycubic too) and that matters for painting. Secondly higher detail resins like what you used for the phrozen prints are more opaque on the visual spectrum so the print looks much sharper, though after priming that difference is of course null. And the resin used for the SLS prints last time was the sharpest most opaque I've ever seen! far more opaque than the phrozen aqua 8k which is one of the more opaque consumer resins. Do you know what resin that was? I can't find any DWS or other resin that looks like it. I've made a prototype 3dAA slicer that can completely smooth out layer lines AND sharpen prints on any consumer printer so I want those sort of profressional grade prints to compare my results with focus stacked macro photos, but I can't find anything like that. The red resin used for the professional prints here is much worse than what you had before.
What slicer programs did you use? Sometimes the failures you are seeing come from the slicer. Sometimes you can reslice in the same slicer or another slicer and get better results.
I’m sad cause the anycubic printer was not calibrated properly. I have the M5s and you can tell the exposure time is not right my speed prints come out better quality than that
🖌🎨 Only TWO DAYS LEFT to grab the Squidmar 2024 Infinity Airbrush!🎨🖌
and while you're at it, grab yourself some paint sets and the Squidmar Wet Palette:
harderairbrush.com/pages/squidmar-release-2024-inf
Your tried saturn 3? Its really good
Hey guys, Firstly i woul like to say i love your work an have been a follower for almost a year now and look forward to every video (on both channels ;) )
This leads me onto trying to buy all the ltd. edition Squid stuff. I signed up for and then was the first to buy the Infinity (New one), i have recieved my paints and palette which are awesome, but every time i try check on the progress of the airbrush, H&S keep telling me it's coming soon or being made etc etc. It's been almost 5 weeks now since they took my money but no brush. Anyway, is there any leverage you have over at H&S to get them moving a bit faster, i don't mind waiting a few weeks, but when it's a case of 5 and more..... no no no especially as they took the payment there and then?
@@McShimi hey man, send me an email on our website and I'll look in to your order:)
The J55 does print with support, either a water soluble (wss150) or one you blast off (sup710), they have post processed the minis before sending them. I use one almost daily in my job, its main strength is the multimaterial and colour options and I wouldn't use one for minis purely as the build material is roughly 500 USD per kg.
$500 😲😲😲
@@yeahboiwahoo This exact. The only Additive (3d print) processes that don’t require supports are Selective Laser Sintering (SLS) [supports are required if printing metal though due to heat] and Binder Jet, as the build material supports the printed geometry. However, neither are optimal for scale miniatures that we appreciate in the hobby with their rougher surface texture.
We use one as well and I can confirm what he says.
Also you can print the model in full color and design.
I have exactly this Anycubic printer and i never had the problem with the layer lines. It's Hard for me to compare the degree of the details with something because it is my first one 😅 but i am very happy with it, it is very beginnen friendly
they used ABS-LIKE RESIN (trash) and HD Resin... both cost ~25€ (in Germany). All my Printers (Anycubic and Elegoo) print perfect. Its just show :)
@@EinfachScheisse Don't resin shops have Benchy previews?
had a photon mono for years now. it's able to print better than that one. I think it's either the settings or the resin really.
you can probably print with 30-40% thinner layers, which gives it almost no stepping. also knowing how to orient your model helps. good resin (not expensive, but good) goes a long way too. and often layer lines might just be you over or undercooking your resin. also dont print when the resin is too cold most resins like to be easy 30°c+
I’ve got 3 different 3D printers and I pretty much only use my Photon Mono and get great results. It’s definitely over exposed which is why it lost definition and is shiny.
Dude the White Vault is fantastic! I listened to the whole thing over the summer 2022 while painting my Night Haunt, and it is my no. 1 favorite podcast of all time! Did not expect it to pop up!
Back in 99 I was working in Hong Kong and drifted past a high end Tech store with a brand new just released Pioneer 42" Plasma TV in the Window retailing for a Whopping $10,000, which is an event that routinely pops into my mind when I see an equally impressive piece of cutting edge tech today like that printer... as it reminds me that in a relatively short amount of time the bar for entry will drop so low that we'll struggle to understand how something so ubiquitous and cheap now was so expense just a few short years ago..
20 years from now that high end Printer selling for $100,000 today would be the entry level model you'd buy if your were working on a tight budget. for a fraction of a fraction of its current price tag..
You should have displayed the exact printer Settings you used for each print... and what resin you used.... this would have been very interesting to see.
And follow up with the same resin and layer thickness settings.
Agreed. I know they said they used recommended settings and resin but from my understanding the resin makes a lot of difference. The same reason in different printers would be a good test I think.
disappointed that you didn't prime all the minis to give them all the same surface texture/quality to make comparisons easier and fairer. the glossyness of some resins make them look less detailed then they actually are and the opposite is true of matt resins.
The surface matters though. There's a reason that GW plastic injections aren't treated to have a more glossy surface.
Came to say the same thing. It evens the field.
Or just use the same resin. More expensive printers should take more types of resin.
@@CTimmerman That's not necessarily true, most manufacturers will have a specific resin they produce or recommend for their printers, it very much depends on how that printer functions, sure there are 3rd party resins that are more geared up than stock resins, but if you're a first time printer, you're not going to do that
problem is that a lot of primers have some filling properties about them that would obscure the layer line difference. While I do understand where you are coming from (part of me agrees), I do see a case for looking at the bare part in it's best according to the manufacturer. They put together a system to produce an end result so it would only be fair to see what the manufacturer can demonstrate. Plus some prints might need to stay clear for their intended purpose and layer lines may make a difference (lenses, prisms and windows)
The DWS is insane, it almost still looks like a computer program's 3d render but in real life.
I think the comparison would benefit from using optimum settings and the same resin for each print. Obviously there will be a massive difference between an 2k printer using basic resin and 8k printer with the proper 8k or equivalent resin. The video is still cool, but not a great way to make an informed decision
Hey man, while i do agree - with this test, we've asked the brands to send us their own recommended resins and settings. Something as a first time buyer - you'd probably listen too. I'm 100% sure there are ways to optimize all these printers to get a better result with some testing. But for an "out of box" comparison, i think each brand had a fair chance to give us their best :)
@@SquidmarMiniatures I think it's valid to say it's "out of box" but I'd say most of this hobby is not out of box. GW obviously recommends their paints and their tools to work on their models but that doesn't mean the best experience or quality.
Still an interesting video and the channel isn't primarily focused on 3d printing so I get it. Going in, I was expecting a bit more like the paint brand comparison.
Love your work, guys. I'm rocking an Anycubic m3, and the biggest problem with my minis is my paint job, not the layer lines 😅
I feel very seen by this comment.
This is so true, I also ask people, painting for golden demon? No, buy the cheapest one, yes buy a slightly more expensive one ;)
@@Lfcsweden-n5m If you can see the layer lines that's going to mess with drybrushing and washes, anything above that is...vanity, until you get to golden demon.
@@stephenrider6107 usually layers lines are easily avoidably by optimizing the printer and positiong of the model and so on. Also priming miniatures and prepping prior to printing fixes most of these problems.
@@Lfcsweden-n5m Or melting the layer lines with topical plastic glue perhaps.
For ~$400 the details looks like a great beginner intro for home printing, to learn how to do it. Trimming, cleaning, ventilation fans, curing gear, cleaning solution, etc., etc., is a huge investment in time and money, and gotta say, not all of us are that committed yet 😀
We're still on the fence our selves even if it's part of our job 😅
I have a mars 3 Pro and to be honest, there's soooo many variables that affect print quality, especially in low quality resin (or mid)... From temperature of the resin container , to the amount of humidity etc. I think that's why "other peoples settings" isn't working most of the time. I've had to play around SOOOO many times until I got some insane prints, that I couldn't even see the defects. And I think the newer printers are even more crazy, with self heating beds and moving resin reservoir. I am definitely looking at the Saturn 5 Ultra with sparkling eyes :D haha
@@Majdaryeah resin printing settings are specific to each individual user due to the weather in that area. Going with the manufacturer recommendation for settings is fine for a place to start but doing calibration prints is mandatory if you want the best print out of the machine
look up FDM figurines. theyre getting really good these days and are a lot less hassle. theyre also cheaper. that is if youre planning to not print 100s of figurines and sell em, cause in those cases its better to do Resin.
@@SquidmarMiniatures Your channel has "miniatures" in the title, and as learning to sculpt or waiting for prints to make molds of takes longer than printing your own, 3D printing miniatures will increase in popularity.
I think a lot of the softness on the Anycubic probably comes from the ACF film. It's a blurry film that's designed for speed not necessarily detail
A D2 would probably be better.
yes ACF Film sucks for tabletop. i changed it to a pfa film and this is awesome but the D2 is mutch better
My prints come out great. Just gotta tune in the settings 👌
I would put my money on overexposure before the film
Film? As in a skin that forms on top of the resin?
the first printer clearly just needed calibrating better. even if those are the settings they recommended, doesn't matter. you should do some tests to make sure its not over curing the resin.
100%. Dialing in your print is an art unto itself. And there are so many good calibration tools. Couple that with the RERF on Anycubic printers and you can get your printer/resin calibrated so much faster.
Weta Workshop and other special effects companies use the J55 printers for things like really detailed eyes etc in props and creatures. Very cool tech. But hit the nail on the head , it’s not aimed at printing minis. Great video 🙂
Been watching this channel the last few weeks, as I started getting back into Warhammer. Haven’t played since 4th addition in middle school. Inspiring me to improve my miniature painting and actually think about lighting when I paint them.
Anycubic is great if you wanna try buggy, first-gen hard/software. I had a Mono X and even after years of updates, no proper Anti-aliasing. I just compensated by reducing layer heights :)
We've unfortunately had the same experience, this isnt our first anycubic (its our 4th) and we've had the same problem with resin and FDM printers. Its funny how they used to be more user friendly 5 years ago than they are today.
using the printers without optimizing the settings and using different resins for each printer makes the comparison pretty much pointless
My thoughts exactly. It’s pretty clear they’re not exactly authoritative on resin printing either.
It's the resin recommended by the brands for the home printers, using the settings they recommended us to use. So this is comparing the experience a home maker would have when grabbing their first printer and making their first prints.
Yeah, We have a printer sent from Anycubic using stock recommended setting that are for just getting a print to work no matter what(Not for fine quality), A mini 8k that has been fiddled with to make it more optimal for minis and the other 3 machines being either locked down completely , professionally tuned by a pro and one that doesn't even use sla printing technology...
@@Brodoodle Hey Brodoodle, we have not calibrated or done any "professional adjustments" to any of the home 3d printers. All three of them have been using settings and resins as recommended by the brands.
@@SquidmarMiniatures that’s not how resin printing works. You know that. Those settings on bottles are to ensure *something* prints. They are not for quality and the range on bottles is very wide to ensure people get *some* result. The least you could’ve done was print some validation matrices to tune exposure. Would’ve cost you an hour or two, would’ve made the video make more sense. Also, why would you possibly compare differently pigmented resins. Of course some of those catch light better than others. Why not prime the models first then? Siraya Tech’s Navy Grey looks infinitely better out of the box than an average standard grey resin, but after priming the models those differences go away.
I would feel scammed if i spent $65K on a printer just for it to be slightly better than a $350 one. Good on you Tomik and Bellgarde.
The White Vault is one of the few stories that actively makes me uncomfortable to exist. I love it so much. I'm from a place that can have white outs from snow, so it's a familiar sense to me
Why using different resin? The simple fact that a resin is darker than another affects the details, because the UV are stopped more efficiently between layers and affects light bleeding. Also factory settings are often overexposed to avoid failures (temperature of the room, resin used etc...), so tweaks are needed to decrease exposure.
The White Vault is so good you guys. Really really good lovecraftian horror. Great video Squid guys!
White Vault was pretty good. You should check out the Fathom Derelict podcast.
The White Vault is so gooooood"!
Yass
This isn't fair u guys just want me to spend all my hard earned money on a sick 3-D printer which I really really want to do. Thanks for the updated info. U guys are the best.
This comparison is worthless, if you use different resins you need at least prime them. Not to mention calibrating resins, setting AA, using ACF film... I'm almost certain anycubic can match phrozen if configured properly
Ofc it can, it’s hardly any difference at al :)
Those prints look slike overexposured and not cleaned propertly... I have Anycubic M3 Premium with 8k resolution, where this printer is not the most expenswe and high-end printer and my prints looks sharp as hell...
Worthwhile for people just using the default settings.
@@CTimmerman problem with resin print is their are no default settings bottle to bottle things change no where near as standard as fdm print has become.
@CTimmerman But according to another comment of theirs they didn't use the default settings, they were in contact with the manufacturers and used what they told them. Most people aren't calling the printer manufacturer for recommendations if they're the 'default settings' type of person.
Hey! Just want to say I'm a big fan of yours, thank you for the content you make! I just bought a Phrozen printer, cleaning and curing station after watching one of your other videos and am happy to see that it compares well to these other printers!
One thing that would be nice to see, is where to set up a printer in your home. I've seen many videos about how to optimize builds and get the best print quality, but not as much on where it is safe to setup in your home and what kind of home setup options you should look at. I'm sure you have your plate full with videos, but that is something I think would be helpful for those who are getting into the 3d printing hobby!
Cheers!
8:45 - I will neither confirm nor deny. That show is what got me into writing audio fiction. I frickin' love it
I've been looking at getting that Phrozen Mini for a while now, I just currently don't have the space for a work station to print minis or to clean/cure them, good to know that despite it being relatively cheap, it's still a great choice for novice printers
You have to adjust the print layer height! Set it to the lowest millimeter it will go. It’ll take longer to print, but it’s worth it.
I have an M5s and the quality is bad but speed is where it excels, it all depends what you care about. I printed a warhound on it and the quality at that scale was fine and the speed unbeatable for the price
Just bought the paint set, looking forward to giving them a try, and see how they compare with the array of Citadel paints I have! much cheaper too for the amount you get so thank you for that!
A good video, honestly. It felt more like a "brand vs brand" video rather than a printer vs printer, but that's still a fair comparison to make! A beginner needs to know what brands to listen to and which to not and that sometimes it's just better to finetune it from their settings and find what resin works best for you.
I've used my Saturn 2 for a few years and have that thing dialed in to the point there are no layer lines printing at 30 microns. That thing has been an absolute workhorse for me
I own the Sonic Mini 8K, and I have always been blown away by its details. Phrozens are not a commonly bought brand I've learnt but its a shame because the printers are genuinely some of the highest detailed ones I've seen.
This is exactly why I don’t even dream of getting into printing. I’ve seen some crazy gorgeous prints made on 8k affordable printers, so it’s clear that the user is very much a factor here. I’m not willing nor capable of investing the required time and effort to get that skill. Also I don’t have a space where I could set it up, so it’s not a difficult decision for me to make.
I work at a prototyper and print my minis on company time on "'the big boy" 😂
So funny to see you butcher White Vault. You guys are awesome. :)
4:09 those prints are very over exposed
Anycubics are heap but you can get wayyyy better prints with them for sure
The mono 4k would have been a better entry level start as it's on sale for under 200 constantly
I personally am an elegoo guy. Since Saturn 2. But yeah they could have tried a little harder to give the printers a better look
I love the J55 and I'm very fortunate to have hands on experience with it through my job!
The angle of the print definitely affects the outcome. I can print really small stuff and it it's angled right the layer lines are almost invisible. A light coat of extra thin cement to lightly touching the print with fine sanding sticks finish it up.
Yall should have added saturn 4 Ultra to the mix, it prints amazing quality and fast, and has large build plate, the M5s comes with ACF release film which is cloudy and adds to ligt bleed and softness, PFA/nFEP and FEP are the clear release films that are better for sharpness, so the M5s just isnt reaaaally made for high detail minis in the stock config 🤷♂️🤷♂️ great video as always ❤
I use a Mars 4 Ultra and print at .02mm. I dont see any layer lines, so I'm curious what your layer height was for these?
This. They said it in the video, they used the "recommended settings" from the manufacturer. And the recommended settings are almost always 0.05, which is really bad for printing minis if you're aiming for quality.
I wouldn't be happy with any of the prints they made using home printers. My very old Elegoo Saturn 1 does better prints with zero layer lines. Everything depends on the settings and the resin used.
I got a mars 3 and also print at 0.02mm. I hardly ever see layers lines. I get comparing stock resin recommendations, but it really doesn't show off quality. I would have at least done same layer height on all or smallest layer height of each printer.
I really think if you're getting layer lines on any current elegoo, anycubic or phrozen printer, that's entirely due to the settings not the capability of the printer.
Elegoo rules! So much! I have a mars 2 pro. It's literally the beat beginner printer. Then when you get the hang of it, move to a larger model.
honestly I just had my hands on Mars5 Ultra, and I am left speechless seeing how bad the quality of the first two in the video is when comparing. And need to say that the price tag is lower too.
@catchapl I bet you're loving that tilt feature! So fucking cool. But yeah, super weird that they didn't all use the same layer heights or bring in the Elegoo Mars or Saturn series, since they are REALLY cheap compared to a lot of what they showed, and arguably a lot better.
I have an anycubic photon M3 and still using factory settings and works just fine. Plus, you're using different resins, the 8k printer is using what at first glance looks like 8k resin, try printing on that with regular resin
8k is regular resin, has been the standard for almost 3 years. It's just a name.
@@SquidmarMiniatures if you say so I'll take your word but I've seen prints on a printer with the same settings with different resin and the difference y noticeable, barely, but noticeable
@@alvaroaugustomeridio Every resin is different, absolutely. What i'm saying is; its not a magical completely different thing. It's just phrozens resin and they decided to use the keyword 8k to make it sound fancy. The quality of the resin is leaps and bounds better than anycubic. But as we've said; we used the recommended resin and settings provided by each producer.
Hey guys! Just got back into Warhammer 40K and love your channel, thoroughly enjoyed the Manta and War Titan series. You got me excited to start painting my (20 year old) backlog and maybe even repaint some of the miniatures I did when I was 15 years old. Just got the wet pallet and all three paint sets and figuring out my color schemes. My only disappointment was that I received a second bottle of Violet Red in the Dark Future Set instead of a bottle of Magenta, but I don't think I'll use the purple all that much anyway. Looking forward to your next big project!
Hey man, sorry about the mistake in the set. If change your mind about getting the paint replaced, please send me an email in a reasonable time and we'll sort it.:)
@@SquidmarMiniaturesThanks for the offer, but I live in Canada so let's just avoid all the shipping costs for a single bottle of paint.
Nice video, you´ll find that the printer isn´t all that determines the end quality, starting with the resins and settings, ending with the postprocess cleaning and everything inbetween can vastly change the outcome on whatever printer
You also have to note with the Heygears that it uses their resin only as they do not allow you to make any profile changes. Also their resin is double the cost in most cases.
next time you use a resin printer do some cones of calibration tests with your resin and dial your settings in more. the manufacturer can only give you a ballpark typically higher to prevent failures.
Wow, my anycubic doesn't look anything like what you made. Hardly any layer lines and super detailed.
One thing that would have made this a much more objective test would have been to use the SAME resin for all of the printers. Changing the resin types with each test doesn't show the capabilities of the printers or the qualities of the prints. Glossy vs Matte can be an issue because they're formulated differently.
It looks like you haven't oriented your prints the same way every single time, which could contribute to the differences, but i might be wrong :) Great video as always guys :)
Been a partner with DWS for years. Tech is so good but the price is impossible to maintain
id agree Frodo with the ring on would be the best mini :D
would have been cool to see those colour prints with the whole mini pre coloured
Heygears is a good printer, and they make their process postprocess workflow incredibly simple. The issue is that they charge an arm and a leg, and if they ever go bankrupt you can no longer print with their printer since it requires connection to their servers.
Once I have a space for printing, I definitely want the Phrozen one. If I ever win the lottery, I will find a used DWS-029 or whatever replaces it. Pretty sure that I will be perfectly happy with Phrozen.
WOO HOO - Got a bite chunked out of my name!!! Great work as always team, super entertaining and informative vids. Keep them coming!
Love the video concept, just ask that in future tests are showed with a black primer + zenithal through an airbrush. The differences in resin finishes are doing a lot for these in terms of camera shots. The more matte resins really photograph a ton better, which makes this harder for us as the audience to really get the true comparison.
I'll print that Dwarf model for you. I have done the master printing of models for quite a few miniature manufacturers including Modiphius and Mantic
Difference between mono and phrosen is 100% settings. Something is very, VERY wrong with your layer time and thickness on anycubic.
The most expensive printed actual hairs on the dwarf beard, that's very lore accurate. Must be an AI feature.
When Squidmar goes full Swedish Chef and can't say "white"😂
On the phrozen mini, the right hand is clearly not correctly printed, and yet you prefer it ? (and the left arm shows a white deposit, I don't know, it is resin ?)
edit: nvm, I didn't realize the mini was in 3 parts.
At around 3:05 that almost looks like a resin problem. I had something similar happen when I used some really expired eco-resin.
BTW, look up the Cones of Calibration and if the recommended settings don't pass, try again after you get something that does.
I´m so satisfied with my 99$ Anycubic Photon Mono 4k and just found out about tough resins (more bendy and not frigal). I would never suggest and pay more than 200€ for a resin printer.
Also just a note HeyGears don't ship to the entire Scandinavia.. So its not as accessible.
I get the same quality as the expensive ones with a Saturn 3 at 0.02mm layer height with the elegoo cheap gray resin. If you have any layer lines you can add 2 points of of antialiasing.
ive been 3d printing for several years now with the photon mono you should get sharper detail than than id say you would need to print some calibration tests could be simple under exposure, but there are so many reasons for print issues from exposure time,lift speed if the printer has old or damged fep film and so on, also different resins all print differently. unfortunatly you cant just bung a file on the printer and hit go sometimes takes lots of messing around and i dont thinks its fair to compare a £300 with a 65000 grand printer!
If you just used their suggested printing settings, you are probably not getting the best result from your printer, at least not from the Anycubic and Phrozen ones. They absolutely need to be calibrated, and the result changes drastically. The Anycubic print looks way overexposed, so I doubt that is the best it can do. Also, put anti-aliasing on.
However, the end result of the video won't change that much.
I feel like they used a different slicer for the printers. Which is usually a large part of how details turn out.
I have a two or three years old photon mono with ABS resin and the quality is WAY better that your Anycubic examples. Maybe you should have do some testprints and don't use the recommended settings
Of course this video comes out the day after i order the first printer you tested
Many comments from owners mention you can get much better results with time and effort though so it likely will still be great
@@Nyitemare sweet. I'm pretty sure it will work just fine as my first resin printer and it was cheap enough that I can get a better one once I master how to use the one I have
I have the anycubic mono 5s pro. I love the printer but absolutely hate anycubic resin. I have been using Sunlu's 14k and abs-like resin. I have been getting some pretty crisp prints but it took some time to tune.
"you won't need rhinox hide anymore"
me bugging on this vid while using rhinox hide
Sorry Lucas, but you did a poor job cleaning. The tell tale shine and chalky white residue is case in point. A well cleaned print should be almost matte, any bit that looks wet is excess resin. Additionally, the softness that you’re seeing on the Anycubic prints is over exposure which is killing your details and what looks like a larger layer height (.05mm I’m guessing?). While manufacturers have their suggested settings, every printer needs to be specifically tuned to get the best performance from that particular machine.
Furthermore, what are your machine settings being used? This comparison is worthless without having control values such as layer heights
The white residue is from superglue, but agree with the rest. I gave them similar feedback for their previous video that was ignored, it's not a fair comparison if the settings aren't optimised for each printer
@@NikkiAnnMarie that could be, didn’t see that that dwarf was a split model til later. However, excess moisture or IPA when exposed to UV can leave behind a chalky finish
There probably would have been some utility in including something that cost maybe $2000 to 3500 that is more specific to the mini painting hobby needs (high resolution)
Thanks for he video !
Thanks for the video guys. Would you try swapping the resins between the printers so we can see if its more a resin issue vs a printer issue?
Oh, you're using my printer. Nice
1. Awesome vid
2. White vault is AWESOME
3. No saturn 4 Ultra 😢
I have the Mono 5s Pro and you can get much better prints than shown here, it really feels like something has gone wrong with those prints. Not saying its the best, but this seems off.
Hey man, yeah as we said in the video - we've been using recommended settings we got when talking to the brand. Using the same supports for all prints. I think we should be able to get a better result from the m5 pro with more tweaking. But i find it interesting how poorly it performed with their own recommended settings and resin.
@@SquidmarMiniatures so odd, great vid though guys. Now I just need to find 60,000 for a new printer!
@@SquidmarMiniatures, I found that the recommended exposure setting from anycubic were about 0.7 seconds over what the cones of calibration suggested as the optimal exposure settings for the anycubic abs like pro v2 resin. So it’s likely your print was way over exposed.
$100K? Jesus....can you print out a full-sized dragon with that??
I agree that the second 3-D printer was awesome. I think that really expensive one does well with bigger objects. Maybe the dwarf and dragon were just too small.
I think you should redo this with each of he printers being optimized and and all using the same resin. There is no way to really compare these minis because so many bits of the process are completely different and, dare I say, rigged towards your favorite printers. All in all, I would say that this video is incredibly unprofessional and misleading. Its upsetting to se this sorta thing from a huge channel like yours, its really fueling the '3d printing isn't for broke people' idea.
Anyways, Hope you guys do this again but with less bias and really trying to make the playing field even by having a mix of better optimization for each printer and using the same [or at least similar] resins.
Hey man, it's the resin recommended by the brands for the home printers. Using the settings the brands recommended us to use. It's not our fault or biasy they sent us the resin/printers/settings. I find it to be a good showcase of what you can expect as an unexperienced maker.
I agree. I also think the m5s pro uv power might've been low. I've gotten amazing prints with it, better than phrozen
This is a ludicrous comment.
This video includes a $100,000 printer, it’s not a buyers guide. It’s entertainment
How fresh from the print were the minis when you were showing them as the dwarf from the first had a fingerprint etched into his thigh
the advantage of the Polyjet is you can literally print the mini fully coloured ready to go, not so much the print quality
I feel like you should compare primed models since there are different materials with different behaviour on video
So FDM printers next? Filament for those who can't run smelly, messy resin at home.
I have an Anycubic Ultra, and it doesn't print as bad as your Anycubic does.. Mine has actually very crisp prints, so i would kinda think your issue must have been the settings as that smooth surface is more likely to be the layers not completely curing before it starts a new one?
I am a 100% going to buy another brand next time, but i would say for just printing minies, like small ones, it does a great and fine job - i think 3D printing is presented waaaay to much as a "every person can just have this at home and have fun" but the 3D printer focused channels will tell you 3D printing is a hobby and by no means a fun or small one.. If you live in an apartment like me you will need a little plant tent with ventilation to avoid poisoning yourself with the fumes, so it is by no means a small hobby.
Resin makes a big difference.
If I use anycubic resin vs phrozen 4k resin with the same 3d printer, the level of details is massively different.
The level of details shown in the video might be because of the resin and not the printer.
I do not know about the polyjet printer, but it seems like a FDM printer, so not really in the same category than the resin printers.
Damn... got eaten at the end!! 😂
Sorry about that lol
I used to love Phrozen but as far as sub $500 printers go at the moment, the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra is objectively better than any of the sub $500 printers you're testing here.
Hey man, we always love testing new printers and it would be fun to try the 5 ultra. The previous Elegoos we've had - have not been nearly as good as the phrozen in reliability and quality. I would LOVE to see if the saturn 5 ultra can compete, or even outcompete. It's always great for us consumers when the quality is raised! :)
@@SquidmarMiniatures Hopefully they'll send you one. My initial plan was to get a Saturn 4 Ultra (apologies for 5 typo above) and use it alongside my Sonic Mini but I've ended up getting rid of the Sonic and having two Saturns instead. I guess a comparison to the Mars Ultra would be more fair but given that the price is almost the same between the Saturn and the Sonic, the choice is very simple. The Sonic is a bit faster but the Saturn beats it in every other way. The tilt release mechanism isn't just a gimmick, it's legit.
Own a 150$ anycubic, 350$ anycubic and a 350$ Phrozen. Can honestly say, nothing sets the prints aparts. They produce more or less the exact same quality of prints when they are tuned in. That extremely small difference that may appear in some prints won’t affect the outcome when the models are primed and painted. 95% of painters won’t see any difference of the end product. I’ve been printing for years and gone true numerous printers. It’s all about supports and the work prior to printing that make the most the most difference. Also the files themself ofc. So my recommendations, go for the one who has the best deals and don’t spend to much. Learn how to prepare files and support correctly and you will be happy as a clam ;)
whats the cost of everything you need besides the printer itself? i only got an FDM so all i know is PLA rolls, sandpaper and glue to smooth it
You gotta post slice settings and resin types when reviewing the prints the printer itself is only half the equation
What resin did yall use for each printer. Quality control wise that's a pretty important factor lol
You should also include the Uniformation printers in here
The m5 series have AA turned to the max it seems, which softens the details. The saturn 3 at 269usd would be a mich better choice.
I think the industrial one can do full color 3D prints. I have a voxely full color print of myself from Madurodam.
Well of course the DWS is gonna come out really good. They have their printer and resin settings fully tested and calibrated compared to your "Factory Recommendations" for the cheaper printers.
the phrozen prints are clearly at a lower layer height so that's not a fair comparison tbh. I assume the anycubic is 50um and phrozen 20-30um while the SLS prints are probably 10-15um.
Also the resin makes a huge difference for two reasons, first off the higher detail resin you used for the phrozen print physically cures sharper (has less bloom) (you might have over exposed the anycubic too) and that matters for painting. Secondly higher detail resins like what you used for the phrozen prints are more opaque on the visual spectrum so the print looks much sharper, though after priming that difference is of course null.
And the resin used for the SLS prints last time was the sharpest most opaque I've ever seen! far more opaque than the phrozen aqua 8k which is one of the more opaque consumer resins. Do you know what resin that was? I can't find any DWS or other resin that looks like it.
I've made a prototype 3dAA slicer that can completely smooth out layer lines AND sharpen prints on any consumer printer so I want those sort of profressional grade prints to compare my results with focus stacked macro photos, but I can't find anything like that. The red resin used for the professional prints here is much worse than what you had before.
What slicer programs did you use? Sometimes the failures you are seeing come from the slicer. Sometimes you can reslice in the same slicer or another slicer and get better results.
I have a DWS at work, i HATE this machine! Ended buying a anycubic mono m5s pro and now i can work properly.
I’m sad cause the anycubic printer was not calibrated properly. I have the M5s and you can tell the exposure time is not right my speed prints come out better quality than that
The first one is under exposed. You need to increase exposure time and use some Anti Aliasing.
And use PFA Films, not ACF.