I've been using Castrol Edge High Mileage 5W-30 Full Synthetic for two or three years now. My 2.5L T5 engine was burning about .5qt to 1 qt every 2,500 miles. Since switching to Castrol Edge, I've noticed that the engine oil burning has slowed down quite a bit. The additives in Castrol Edge High Mileage really do seem to work in engines with over 100,000. I've been pretty impressed with it and will keep purchasing it for my car for now on.
My Buick Enclave with 50,000 miles was using a qt every 3000. I switched to Amsoil high mileage and now it’s a qt every 7,500, on the way to a 12,000 mile interval. 😊
How about doing g 1 quart of Castrol 1 quart of pennzoil platnum 1 quart of Royal purple 1quart of amsoil and then half quart of supertech in my engine? That would be the best oil in my opinion. Would that be a smart thing to do orrr?
Pennzoil dramatically got better because they were purchased by Shell, which now provides them with some of the best base oils in the world considering they are completely vertically integrated and produce and refine their own supply on a global scale.
Castrol Edge Here!! My Toyota Camry has over 300,000 miles and it's still running strong. My local mechanic are impressed how well and strong the car is still running like new
Great review! Im a loyalist to Supertech, although i agree with your video. I have ran Super in a 07 focus for 300k and it still isnt burning any oil, no knocks, no pings. But Great Vid
I was 100% Pennzoil. used it for my 2006 kia rio. but now, i switched over the past few years to SuperTech. Yes, its cheaper, but like you said, it passes all the tests like the others, so no need to pay more if you same quality as the others. I do replace oil and filter every 6,000 miles in my cars now.
I like Project Farm’s videos. However, he failed to mention that the top 4 oils in his competition videos does not have the API donut seal. Why? Because those oils have exceeded the amount of additives, specifically, ZDDP additive, which API thinks prematurely destroys catalytic converters and puts out more harmful fumes out the exhaust. Without the API restriction (and the donut seal), obviously, those oils came out on top because they have more anti-wear and detergent additives.
Same here supertech, high mileage full synthetic oil for 13.97 and super tech filter for 2.97 a total of 18 dollars can't beat the price, for a quality oil change, I go 4,000 miles on my Honda Accord without a problem.
I bought a brand new 2014 Toyota Tacoma and started out using Mobil 1 (5000 mile changes) and have consistently used that oil since then. I'm not a heavy duty driver, but it does have well over 100k miles and still running like new (and no oil loss between changes).
I've been changing oil for 45 years.... Valvoline back in the 1970s was my brand. Then I switched to Mobil 1. Back 40 yrs ago Synthetic was $1 qt vs Dino at 25¢ qt. Today the difference is less than $10 per 5 at jug. IMHO as Old Man I prefer true synthetic base oils (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline) vs Hydro Cracking oils (Castrol). However one aspect of oil nobody can tell is the strength / quality of additives. So in conclusion, change oil with synthetic oil filter regularly. Less than 10k. 🇺🇸
@@overhead440 So you have never seen oil go black in under 500 mi?? Color doesnt define quality at all..Only way to know condition of oil is through analizeing it..polaris or blackstone can do a full break down and tell you whats happening and life long before color change or smell or texture will show issues..
Craig_sez Well, cheap oil from ACE store becomes dark faster, than Mobil 1. So, ACE brand is doing better job than Mobil? Absurd. Oxidation is what , mostly, make them darker. Mobil takes longer to oxides
I've worked in the auto industry for 30yrs and diagnosed many oil pressure and/failed engines traced back to Pennzoil (sort of). Let me explain. People do not change their oil on a regular basis and deposits and sludge build up in the engine. This is bad but not engine failure bad. The examples I've run into were all engines that were not maintained properly and had significant deposits/sludge build up and all had recently been to Jiffy Lube and had fresh Pennzoil in them. Pennzoil is very high detergent and washed out the engine and caused the oil pump pick-up screen to clog and starved the oil pump causing the loss of oil pressure and in some cases where the owner did not stop driving when the oil pressure warning system told them there was a problem it caused complete engine failure. I believe these customers were probably not using full synthetic and most likely the base Pennzoil (I had heard it was paraffin based). Had they used a less detergent oil all of the deposits would have stayed where they were and not washed into the pick-up screen. Not really a Pennzoil problem, but more of an observation.
I personally go with the 5 thou' mile/6-month oil-change, and get the cheapest synthetic motor oil, as long as it's classified "SP"/"GF-6A". NO PROBLEM!!!
I use Pennzoil 5W30 Full Synthetic myself. It goes into a BMW V8. X5 to be precise. At one point BMW was recommending Castrol Full Synthetic. But now it seems that Pennzoil is the prefered brand. I remember the yellow M3 Pennzoil used as an advertising catch. In tests Pennzoil has done better than Castrol at heat dissipation and thermal expansion as well as breakdown. It is also created using 100% clear synthetic base oils derived from natural gas. It is the Best... What do you think. ???
Awesome video , I just happened to always use Pennzoil, and now I know actually very good oil. I use it on my jeep wrangler sport unlimited 2014 ,and I also use it on my acura RL 2007 , works great
Valvoline has been doing a great job on my Saab Turbo. It’s a high compression four-cylinder turbo with 260 hp.I have the Valvoline place down the street do it. They are always busy and do a good job. I drive it less than 5000 miles a year but change the oil every year.
If I were you I would change the oil twice a year. 5,000 mls a year is not much but you are probably putting those miles in town, so there are a lot of stops and goes, unless those 5,000 are run driving a few long distance trips. Just a recommendation.
@@albertopalma1663 Next oil change I’m going to do an oil analysis and ship it in for the results. If it suggest I need to change the interval I will otherwise I’m going to keep it what it is. I have a feeling that it will be fine Because I’m using their full synthetic
supertech 5w-30 full synthetic, all the the way, all day, everyday! just use a Mobil 1-212A oil filter( for 2015 chevy impala limited) killer oil, esp, with NO OIL LEAKS AND NO OIL BLOW BY, on vvt Di. V6 ENGINE. I BEAT THE PISS OUT OUT, of my impala, and it comes back for more and more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I’ve been changing my own oil since 1965. I have been very cognizant of what ratings are on oils. I follow all ratings and purchase oil based on those ratings. My oil changes originally (1965) started at around $3 (including filter). Today I’m doing between $15-$18 (including Supertech $3 oil filter or Toyota $5 OEM filter). I purchase oil that’s on sale only, brand doesn’t matter, ratings do matter. In the 60’s and 70’s any engine that went over 100,000 miles was a rarity, we just didn’t keep cars that long. Even in the 80’s, cars didn’t go that high of mileage. My first car that went over this was a 1990 Lincoln Town car, bought used from a lease at 33,000 miles, and sold at 157,000 miles, because the wheel wells were starting to develop rust (Chicago area salt). After I switched to Honda’s, every one lasted at least 150,000 miles average. In 2006 I changed to synthetic oils, and that 2006 Accord 4 cyl. lasted over 200,000 miles before a black ice accident totaled it. I changed oil every 6,000 mile intervals on that Honda. I now change at 5,000 mile intervals & use Supertech oil filters. I use car mfg. oil viscosity recommendations and buy oil on sale, any brand that meets API, etc. ratings. Thanks....Jim.
I mean just changing the oil regularly with ANYTHING is hard for people apparently. So I think if you change the oil with some brand at 3-7k miles you are probably doing alright.
Great video, factual and honest! Yes, any oils that meet a high standard will work, I feel the same way about gasoline. I have always been a Castrol guy myself but I would not have a problem using any others in your list in a pinch. I have a Honda EU1000 generator with 1300 hours on it and still running strong!
I've used Castrol for twenty years and never had any issues always clean motor when broken down and not much wear when broken down either I'll stick with my proven Castrol
I worked as a BMW technician - 1999 to 2003. BMW’s used Mobil 1 synthetic oil, for their “extended” life oil change interval. At 15,000 miles, the oil looked like runny tar. It was absolutely awful! The oil filter element rarely came out in one piece. The filter resembled brittle plastic at 15K miles! Regardless, it wasn’t filtering anything for many thousands of miles! I told customers to change their oil every half-interval, as displayed by the oil indicator lights (or mileage counter) located in the instrument cluster. And damn right!! It is a free Country!!🇺🇸
Well I appreciate your opinion. I'm going to switch from Valvoline to Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-20 so I can get the best performance out of my 4.6 liter 2v
Pennzoil Platinum is way better than Mobile 1, it was not shown here but it is better than Mobile 1 and about the same price, a better base oil makes a better oil and no oil it the world has a better base oil than Pennzoil platinum, the base oil is made from natural gas, not crude oil, Mobile 1 can not compete
2018 Impala V-6, I use MOBIL1. I get it on sale at Costco for $30 and buy 2! I did use Royal Purple onetime, but I stick with Mobil 1 since. Make sure you use a quality filter with any good oil.
Well, after using Mobil 1 for years and years I recently purchased the 12 quart bulk pack of Super Tech Full Synthetic 5W-30 for $2.48/quart. Been using it for 2 years. I change the oil in my vehicles and I see Super Tech does a great job of getting dirt out of the crankcase.
Dirt out of the crankcase, interesting. The oil filter traps dirt, etc, the oil has 3 functions; Clean, Lubricate & Cool. That's what I care about in my oil and I use Purolator One oil filters, change every 5k
I have used all of those oil with no issues at all. I have always been inclined with Valvoline full synthetic because they were the first brand I used when I started to drive plus its an American owned and operated company. At the same time, ExxonMobil is also American as well as Royal Purple but to me RP is not worth it for me. Motul has been the absolute best oil I have used and I've used pretty much every oil that's on the market. Great video.
I'm odd I use Valvoline because there one of the few that still have simple easy to open bottles that don't have a foil seal and still use the small cap that don't get stuck when you try to open it.
Good chip. Brand biased for oil or car brands at this point is just a lack of intelligence. The information is out there, do the research. It's not 1985 anymore.
Car brands still are a truth. Just look at the Dodge, GM and Honda, Toyota resale values. Some brands are more reliable than others but not much difference in oil brands as you said.
I watched a video with a person putting different brands of oil through a series of hard tests, and in the end it came down to Royal purple vs Pennzoil 1, and the Pennzoil won. This guy knows what he's talking about
I quit changing oil in my mowers years ago. Never had a engine fail the whole mower falls a part before engine trouble. My current mower is falling apart 7 years old never changed the oil only added when it's low. Engine runs perfect but everything else is almost done.
Man got elantra 2019 4 months ago.. and started with the same oil as you... I am planning to keep this car for 6 years and tour all around Canada and US...
I've gone to NAPA full syn and their filters. Their oil is Valvoline and their filters are Wix. Until I watched a lot of break down videos, I didn't realize what a huge difference there really is between filters. Oil change and tire rotation every 5k.
I am considering napa oil. you can right now buy napa 5w-30 fully synthetic for $18.99 (5 quart). but how long can u drive between oil changes? I typically like to go 15K miles. it doesn't say on the packaging. lots of synthetic oils will tell you right on the packing how many miles you can drive between oil changes.
@@wasatchm that's too long, oil is cheap enough that you should never go over 10,000, just inviting trouble. Claiming such long change intervals is simply a marketing strategy, while your engine may not blow up it's definitely not good for it. Engine oil is continually being contaminated through intake air, combustion, condensation. Some engines can tolerate that type of abuse better than others.
thanks. I've just talked to 2 mechanics and both said the oil will never go bad just sitting their in your vehicle. I use amsoil fully synthetic which is suppose to go up to 25K miles. it is very expensive that is why I ask. if I had cheaper synthetic oil, I would probably just change it out. my truck I never drive (maybe 500 miles/year). so I will not waste money changing the oil in that unless it looks dirty. my car (which also uses amsoil) will get an oil change at the 24 month mark (I am currently putting about 5K miles on it per year) unless it looks dirty. I understand your point about how cheap oil is. but personally, I just think it is a sales tactic used by the oil manufacturers to sell more oil. but, I don't drive anything expensive. if I had a more expensive vehicle, I may agree with you. my vehicles are usually only worth 2K or 3K.
by the way, I think high end synthetic oil (such as amsoil) can make your engine last a long, long time without frequent oil changes. I bought a 2001 nissan frontier with 59K miles. immediately started doing 25K oil/oil filter changes using amsoil products. had no engine problems whatsoever until I hit the 327K mile mark when I blew a head gasket.
I use Amsoil which claims to be good for 25,000 miles. A few years ago I kept it in my 100,000 mile, 2006 Toyota Highlander 18,200 miles. In draining it, I sent a sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis. The report came back that the oil had remarkably little metal in it, indicating very little engine wear. The report also said that the oil was good for more miles. Personally, I don't recommend going 25,000 miles unless you have a late model car and your driving is mostly highway.
Yeah, I have over 303K miles on my '98 CRV and I'm pretty sure I've used every oil shown in this video over the 26+ years I've owned the vehicle except RP. However over the last ten years or so I've almost always used Walmart's Supertech because it's a quality product for a very reasonable price. I buy the 5qt jug which is an even better deal.
Mobile 1 breaks down much quicker than Penn Ultra Platinum. If you have an oil pressure Guage in your vehicle and keep watch over the oil change lifespan, you will absolutely notice the difference. Not to mention the many scientific tests right here on YT that prove exactly what I'm saying. I made the switch after years of using Mobile 1 and I couldn't be happier
I have 2010 ford fusion 2.5L 4 cy. have used most of oil's in your video and can tell you not much difference in performance and mpg. They all good! go to walmart and save some $$ most of the oil's listed are sold there !! it is a personal preference thing !!
I was using Pennzoil Synthetic until my truck started burning it (it does have 199,000 miles though). I ended up changing over to Mobile 1 and noticed it didn't burn it as quickly.
Try replacing a quart of oil with a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer, as someone who has used it for years and knows plenty of people that do as well it’ll help that burning of oil and prolong the life of the engine
Just put castrol edge in my turbo Subaru xt for the first oil change since I got it 3 months ago it’s great to here that it stands up to high temperatures because I’m in az
I’ve been using Royal Purple since 1993. What it did for my Audi 5 cylinder with a thrust bearing knock. I’ve been called a lier, but that knock vanished within a month of using at that time called 41 a 10/40 racing oil. With using Royal Purple lubricants. The first thing you want is to look to see if the Royal Purple you want to purchase, should have the following preparatory addicted called Synerlec. HPS, for high performance engines with additional additives for bearings, XPR is racing oils & they are outstanding. MaxCycle is RP’s motorcycle oils which have high zinc content. Put the oils on Lubricity tester. The HPS & especially the XPR & MaxCycle are just fantastic. Test all top rated oils on the machine. Have oil analysts done on oils that are in your vehicle to see how well the additive packages are holding up or failing by absorbing by products of a operating engine.
I use/used SuperTech in my lease, I have to say, 6k mile intervals and the oil is still dark honey color on the rag, meaning it hasn't fully broken down, quite impressed, especially for the price for a 6qt oil change, pennzoil/ supertech are my go too's
It's not quite that simple any more. You can change it every day if you want to but if the oil doesn't meet the required spec the you will still encounter problems.
@@MidwestGarage My car requires oil meeting either ACEA C1 or JASO Dl-1. I've never encountered a mineral oil that meets these specifications. Not that I've looked because I'm quite happy following engine makers recommendations. Here is The EU there is almost no demand for mineral oils.
Another Oil I’m also trying out is Redline 0w40 . (Have a feeling it’s gonna be neck and neck between the two) I’m running it in my Son’s 2020 CanAm 570 Factory Oil was drained at 500KM We ride hard with our Quads in the Winter here in Canada so I’m excited to have a sample tested in the summer from my buddy at the University. I will report back with results
I've been using mobil1 since in the 90's and it never failed me. I won't use anything else period. Plus walmart sells the 5 qt.10w-30 full synthetic for $22.99 cant beat that for sure
Valvoline makes the best engine oil, ATF, ATF+4, CVT fluid and all gear oils, like 75w90, 80w90 and 75w140... they also make LSAs (Limited Slip Additives) for advanced differentials and lubricating grease.... trusted for 150 years
@@reginaldwilsonviii1446 Oh! I just switched brands to try Valvoline 5w-30, please show me the results of that test, if the oil is bad I'll change right away!!!
I've used Penzoil and valvoline for most of my younger years (conventional). I've been using super tech synthetics due to buying it in the past for the same price as standard oil from standard brands. Haven't had a single engine or oil related issue with a vehicle since using supertech. 108k miles on my tundra using 0W20 supertech, had a Mitsubishi raider pickup before that made it to 150k no major trouble aside from it being a Dodge Dakota with a Mitsubishi badge. As long as standards and maintenance intervals are met supertech will definitely do the job. Not saying its better but definitely shoots above the belt price wise.
@@teamdada2194never said they were bottled in the same facility. I've owned 6 or 7 vehicles and never had a single oil related problem or engine issue other than maintenance items (coil packs, spark plugs, belts ect.). Always followed the owners manual for viscosity. Sold the tundra at 185k miles, Mitsubishi at 158k miles.
@@trentfranks4507 I know you didn’t say that. I stated that to answer the replys before they all came out and said it. I’ve heard it at least a thousand times. I would never use supertech unless it was a lease vehicle but to each their own.
@@Jake-iw6qm no expert but it’s cheap for a reason. Spend another $5 a gallon and buy better oil. It’s not like you have to drop the oil every 2 mths. I use synthetic mobil 1 and drop it twice a yr. Using supertech for cars and trucks is like using rotella for semi trucks. Completely idiotic. The same guys doing that are the same guys buying china steer tires or walmart china tires for the car guys. Cmon.
Supertech Full Synthetic 5w30 is available in 5 quart jugs for 13.97 at my local Walmart. I love the stuff. They even have the high mileage variety for the same price.
Not by amy means telling you what to do,i have a 35 year old 350Small block with 300k+ and amsoil is by far the best move. Do some looking into it. Some guy literally does an oil shoot-out and amsoil wins all tests hands down. Also exceeds all ANSI testing AND ratings against the competitors. Do the homweork and do the switch. I switched from royal purple to Amsoil and my oldschool 75 yr old racing grandpa swears by it. Hope i turn you onto something awesome. Have a great day brother
Excellent video Sir👍🏻! working out of our 2022 F-350 XL reg cab long bed 2wd with the 6.2 Gas, regularly using since new, the Pennzoil Synthetic Blend 5w30 or the Valvoline Daily Driver 5w30 Synthetic Blend, both performing extremely well after always changing oil & filter right at 5,000 mile intervals! Thanks again for your videos!
Good video!! As you said ALL the oils are good so it just depends on what your partial too. Me I prefer Valvoline Max Life as Ive never had any issues whatsoever with it. My 2nd choice would be Pennzoil. Ive never used RP, Mobil 1 or Castrol so dont have an opinion on those brands but Im sure they work just fine.
Stay away from Castrol oils. I've used it and it runs hot and kinda rough. Mobil1 is great and what I usually use. This oil change I used Pennzoil Platinum. Seems like a good oil but have noticed the engine temp runs a couple degrees warmer. RP is an ok oil but in my experience it lasts about 2k miles and starts to break down. More of a racing oil that's changed often.
I buy Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic and pay between 23-26 dollars for 5 quarts at Walmart! Same stuff at Orelly's and AutoZone was middle to high 30's. Walmart is the winner price wise and a great oil, a win win!
I've been using mobile 1 synthetic oil on my cars/trucks for years. My 2008 Tahoe and Silverado both bought new 0 miles currently have 200k+ each. Can't speak for the other oils since I havent used them but I'm happy with what I use so I'll stick to it.
I have a lifter tap and I used super tech 10w-40 and it didn’t go away and I used mobil 1 10w-40 and it went away for a while and Royal purple is so far my favorite proven results it cleans the inside of your engine
I'm using super tech to break-in my mini bike all I've used in my other mini bike for 5 years. Seems to be good oil I'm using high mileage synthetic as an add in oil on top of mobile one high mileage for my s10 with 280 k on it.
Thank you for confirming that even SuperTech is highly rated. Happens to be what I use for my 2011 Silverado. My neighbor always gives me shit about using "Walmart Brand" I pointed out all the approvals.
Since I only change my oil once a year, even though SuperTech may be fine, Mobile 1 is only around 10.00 more. So to know for sure (yeah I'm biased) that I have a very good oil for the next year, that 10.00 more is well worth it to me.
Mobile 1 extended performance or Annual pretection and Amsoil XL or signature series are my choices. Amsoil is really great if you want a really high detergent content , especially with the signature series. The higher detergent is great for engines and parts that are really sensitive to dirty oil like VVT engines and timing chain oilers. If you do a lot of short triping or sitting idle in traffic, Sludge could potentially be a problem as well. The higher detergent eliminates that risk. One thing I've found with Amsoil is that if you purchase a used car with higher miles and decide to use Amsoil in it you will find out if the last owner wasn't the best on oil changes, The engine may not hold onto the oil. Amsoil is great at revealing old warn seals. This happens because over time from not changing oil on time or using junk oil sludge can build up at the seals allowing the seal to dry out and crack. When this happens the sludge is really acting as a seal. The high detergent level in the Amsoil will clean that sludge off the seal allowing the oil to actually reach it. But since it's dried out and cracking the oil will push past and now you can see the problem that was always there you just didn't know about it until the Amsoil revealed it to you. This kinda thing can happen with any synthetic oil it's just more pronounced with Amsoil because it has a much better detergent package than most oils.
i rode out the wave on royal purple sevral oil changes plus filter changes between oil changes and having to add oil at first and even clouds of smoke on startups . now its beautiful and clean, loud engine tic i started with is now just a little one for about 15 seconds and no oil consumption . its was a rebuild in a bottle ( ok several bottles and a dozen filters ).
No it happens because you over clean and lube seals if your a start and stop driver. If short trips are what you do then don’t use an oil with high detergent additives.
Very hard to find a crap quality oil these days. I normally stick with what has worked for me. Valvoline full synthetic, Mobil 1, and Rotella T6 for my diesels.
I heard that the only true synthetic oil is Pennzoil Platinum because it's the only one made from natural gas, while the other brands are treated with chemicals, etc.
I have been using Super Tech last few years but before that I used nothing but Penzoil and changed my oil every 3-3.5K miles and I always had a clean engine when I would drop a oil pan or valve cover. Penzoil works but I saw videos on Super Tech and it lab tested good and I could save a few dollars. I also did a lab test on the High mileage Conventional Super Tech with close to 4k miles and it came back good as well.
I use various brands, but my eu2000i honda generators are my precious. To transition to synthetic makes me nervious. They are clean. Blend then full synthetic???
I love Valvoline and Pennzoil 👍🏻 been using Pennzoil platinum full synthetic high mileage in my 2010 dodge avenger with 142,000+ miles on it and it runs great!!
I have been using Supertech oil for over 15 years. I have used this oil in 6 vehicles; Nissan, Toyota, Dodge, and Subaru brand vehicles. Never had a problem.
@@randomchannel2591 I always do the same. The quart prices are more so for comparison of perception of value from each company. These are also Walmart prices, but of course your area and state tax and stuff will make the prices different too. Thank you for the comment!
Really about the only oil I would say to avoid because it's a bit too cheap is STP conventional. The worst Synthetic will keep your engine cleaner than the best blend. If you have a Port injected N/A engine made in the last 15 years, and you want to buy an expensive oil filter, don't exceed 10000 miles. Otherwise, don't exceed 5k. It's not the oil that makes the limits, it's the filter. That is, unless you have a DI or forced induction engine. These engines have a higher cylinder pressure and force more fuel into the crankcase. Fuel contamination rapidly decreases the film strength and lowers the flash point of oil. Do not appreciably exceed 5k on any DI or turbo/S/C motor. You will smell fuel in the oil, it will more quickly degrade seals and lines, and it will increase friction in high stress areas.
Pennzoil Platinum is without question the best. i have a hyped up dodge challenger R/T 5.7 hemi, i was getting carbon deposits building up on my piston tops even with a catch can. but oil will always slip past especially through the valve guide seals . i used mobil 1 when the problem was occurring . i switched to castrol edge and ran it a few years and was still getting carbon build up . after cleaning off piston tops when my heads were off i switched to pennzoil platinum 2 years ago and theres no more carbon ! . all oils were 0/40 but penn eliminated the carbon .
I've used valvoline high milage for a long time.. Had a 93 suburban I bought with 193,000 miles on it . Used valvoline in it since I bought it.. I sold it with 325,000 on it and still running pretty good.. Never needed to do any major work to engine.. Thanks for the videos Buddy!
Very good video. I love the way you explained things. Very easy to understand. I'm currently using mobil1 full synthetic oil. I pay $11.49 for 1qt, and $38.99 for a 5qt.
My brand is the one thats on sale or offers a rebate at the time. If none are on sale, I go with Supertech. Its more important to change your oil on time instead of focusing on the brand.
I had a 2006 xtrail that was burning oil, when I would check oil level,it would be below the line. I tried mobil, Pennsville, valvoline and Castrol. Castrol was the only oil that resisited burning and never needed topping up. It worked with that suv really well. Excellent video!
When I went to automotive school in the 90s the oldest instructor drove a 67 Ford ¾ton with very high miles. He said he would only use Pennzoil and it's been my brand ever since.
Don't remember what brands I started buying when I first started doing oil changes, but eventually I settled on whatever was cheapest on Amazon when it came to buy oil, so long as I got the right weight. Usually Castrol GTX or Edge was the cheapest and it just so happens that Mazda (car I own) recommends Castrol for its engines. But now I'm seeing Castrol's oil is expensive on Amazon. So for my last oil change, I got Valvoline. I recently found out Havoline sells 6 quarts for $20 which is a steal. Getting that for next time.
To be perfectly honest with you I have no loyalty to any brand I determine my oil based on my intended application, use, and the needs of the engine and parts. Looking up the oil and what additives are mixed into the base oil helps me determine what i'm going to use. For example, some oils lubricate better than others, and some are better at cleaning based on the chemicals added to the base oil as a small example.
Been using Mobil 1 for years and recently switched to Pennsoil Platinum with great results with compression and performance. What really interests me now is the new Rotella 5-30 that's outperformed Mobil 1 in many tests which I'm trying next!
I stopped using Valvoline high-mileage back in the late 90's because it didn't carry the API Service 'doughnut', I switched to Castrol, but these were petroleum oils. Now that everything is just around 100% synthetic, it's an entirely different ball game, and as he said, with marginal differences. I knew about Pennzoil's issues back in the 70's and 80's with regards to sludge caused by the naturally-occuring paraffin in oils from the State of Pennsylvania.
Valvoline made my engine work harder. It was louder, and lost gas mileage. Normal use with Mobil was 34 mi/gal. Normal use with Valvoline dropped to 31 mi/gal. Changed the oil, and used Castrol Magnetec. Huge difference. Acceleration was better, and was quieter for cold starts. Fuel economy went back to 34 mi/gal. Changed at 10,000 miles, but was still a quiet engine.
I've been using Castrol Edge High Mileage 5W-30 Full Synthetic for two or three years now. My 2.5L T5 engine was burning about .5qt to 1 qt every 2,500 miles. Since switching to Castrol Edge, I've noticed that the engine oil burning has slowed down quite a bit. The additives in Castrol Edge High Mileage really do seem to work in engines with over 100,000. I've been pretty impressed with it and will keep purchasing it for my car for now on.
I’m also beginning to use castrol edge high mileage in my 2.5L (VW). That’s good to know. Thanks for your comment
Best for Volvo Engines
My Buick Enclave with 50,000 miles was using a qt every 3000. I switched to Amsoil high mileage and now it’s a qt every 7,500, on the way to a 12,000 mile interval. 😊
How about doing g 1 quart of Castrol 1 quart of pennzoil platnum 1 quart of Royal purple 1quart of amsoil and then half quart of supertech in my engine? That would be the best oil in my opinion. Would that be a smart thing to do orrr?
@@cashwilson2571 No, not a good idea😬 Amsoil has the best formulation
Pennzoil dramatically got better because they were purchased by Shell, which now provides them with some of the best base oils in the world considering they are completely vertically integrated and produce and refine their own supply on a global scale.
Lol...they downgraded their top tier oils right after purchasing Quaker State and Pennzoil to line their pockets.
@@rickss69 Pennz platinum is the best big box oil on the market. Pennzoil was a totally trash brand before shell bought them
I swear by Castrol for my car. Runs great in my engine.
Castrol Edge Here!! My Toyota Camry has over 300,000 miles and it's still running strong. My local mechanic are impressed how well and strong the car is still running like new
Well is a Toyota obviously…🙄
Great review! Im a loyalist to Supertech, although i agree with your video. I have ran Super in a 07 focus for 300k and it still isnt burning any oil, no knocks, no pings. But Great Vid
I’ve tried mobil1, pennzoil, and Castrol edge. And Castrol Edge has been my #1. Super smooth!
@Certified Big Dog Mobil is good but for the money Castrol is just as good.
I tried the 3 mention above and castrotwas the smooth n quiet
Put Castrol Edge in my 2001 Jag S-type 2 years ago and is was a lot quieter.
I’ve used Castrol for 3 years now and I won’t use anything else $40 for a oil change for a high quality oil is not bad
What do you mean Super Smooth????
I was 100% Pennzoil. used it for my 2006 kia rio. but now, i switched over the past few years to SuperTech. Yes, its cheaper, but like you said, it passes all the tests like the others, so no need to pay more if you same quality as the others. I do replace oil and filter every 6,000 miles in my cars now.
I'd want to drink beers with this guy and listen to him talk about car oils
@paquiao manuel that escalated quickly
I'd like to drop acid and listen to him talk about oil.
😂😂😂😂😂
I'd wake up hungover with a fresh change of Pennzoil in my pickup.
Beers and oils don’t mix my good ol pal. Haha
Oh boy, after watching project farm videos.... coming to some guy reading the packaging giving his opinion is painful.
you beat me to this comment by 4 months
Project farm reads the label because most people do not! They’re boneheads and would rather find out on their own merit.
@@shinymud7 projectfarms sent oil in for an analysis in one video.
I like Project Farm’s videos.
However, he failed to mention that the top 4 oils in his competition videos does not have the API donut seal. Why? Because those oils have exceeded the amount of additives, specifically, ZDDP additive, which API thinks prematurely destroys catalytic converters and puts out more harmful fumes out the exhaust.
Without the API restriction (and the donut seal), obviously, those oils came out on top because they have more anti-wear and detergent additives.
Project farm does a bunch of different tests on the oils. This dude just told you what the package says and told you his favorite brand. 100% useless.
Been using super tech in my car for few years no oil leaks or burning and runs great at 170k miles.
Same, 190k miles and used nothing but supertech
Same here supertech, high mileage full synthetic oil for 13.97 and super tech filter for 2.97 a total of 18 dollars can't beat the price, for a quality oil change, I go 4,000 miles on my Honda Accord without a problem.
Too bad you cant get no Super Tech synthethic oil in México...
I bought a brand new 2014 Toyota Tacoma and started out using Mobil 1 (5000 mile changes) and have consistently used that oil since then. I'm not a heavy duty driver, but it does have well over 100k miles and still running like new (and no oil loss between changes).
Hi. What oil filter you using with Mobil oil for your Tacoma
I have been using Mobil 1 for about 2 years on my 13 boosted tc and it does great.
I use whatever brand I get the best price on as long as it has the SN rating and the correct viscosity rating. I have never had an oil related issue.
Not quite as easy with Euro and Japanese diesel engines.
Exactly
Yes. Just change it at the manufacturer change intervals
Might just wanna get anything that says SP rating since it covers SN and all of the previous ratings before it.
@@ShadowxxPanda I agree when I posted the SN they had not come out with the SP rating yet. The SN was the llatest version at that time.
I've been changing oil for 45 years.... Valvoline back in the 1970s was my brand. Then I switched to Mobil 1. Back 40 yrs ago Synthetic was $1 qt vs Dino at 25¢ qt. Today the difference is less than $10 per 5 at jug. IMHO as Old Man I prefer true synthetic base oils (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline) vs Hydro Cracking oils (Castrol). However one aspect of oil nobody can tell is the strength / quality of additives. So in conclusion, change oil with synthetic oil filter regularly. Less than 10k. 🇺🇸
I think Castrol is just as good as Mobil1 and it's cheaper. It also is ranked very high from other sources.
The Key to Engine Life is Changing Oil as Recommended....
I end up changing mine every 8-10k kilometers or so
Edit: manual asks to change every 16k
randy beard When it starts changing color because it is getting polluted with color change or burnt...
@@overhead440 So you have never seen oil go black in under 500 mi?? Color doesnt define quality at all..Only way to know condition of oil is through analizeing it..polaris or blackstone can do a full break down and tell you whats happening and life long before color change or smell or texture will show issues..
@@overhead440 color is just a sign of the oil doin its job..
Craig_sez Well, cheap oil from ACE store becomes dark faster, than Mobil 1. So, ACE brand is doing better job than Mobil? Absurd. Oxidation is what , mostly, make them darker. Mobil takes longer to oxides
Platinum Penzoil is my choice for my Classic 57 Chevy. I would prefer Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, but no where to be sold.
I've worked in the auto industry for 30yrs and diagnosed many oil pressure and/failed engines traced back to Pennzoil (sort of). Let me explain. People do not change their oil on a regular basis and deposits and sludge build up in the engine. This is bad but not engine failure bad. The examples I've run into were all engines that were not maintained properly and had significant deposits/sludge build up and all had recently been to Jiffy Lube and had fresh Pennzoil in them. Pennzoil is very high detergent and washed out the engine and caused the oil pump pick-up screen to clog and starved the oil pump causing the loss of oil pressure and in some cases where the owner did not stop driving when the oil pressure warning system told them there was a problem it caused complete engine failure. I believe these customers were probably not using full synthetic and most likely the base Pennzoil (I had heard it was paraffin based). Had they used a less detergent oil all of the deposits would have stayed where they were and not washed into the pick-up screen. Not really a Pennzoil problem, but more of an observation.
I personally go with the 5 thou' mile/6-month oil-change, and get the cheapest synthetic motor oil, as long as it's classified "SP"/"GF-6A". NO PROBLEM!!!
Kirkland oil at Costco is the same as Super Tech, only cheaper!
I use Pennzoil 5W30 Full Synthetic myself. It goes into a BMW V8. X5 to be precise. At one point BMW was recommending Castrol Full Synthetic. But now it seems that Pennzoil is the prefered brand. I remember the yellow M3 Pennzoil used as an advertising catch. In tests Pennzoil has done better than Castrol at heat dissipation and thermal expansion as well as breakdown. It is also created using 100% clear synthetic base oils derived from natural gas. It is the Best... What do you think. ???
I use synthetic Pennzoil oil for my sedan and suv. Changing engine oil once a year (12k~15k ) They run as smooth as like new engine.
Awesome video , I just happened to always use Pennzoil, and now I know actually very good oil. I use it on my jeep wrangler sport unlimited 2014 ,and I also use it on my acura RL 2007 , works great
Castrol for me in our boat, motorcycle, lawn equipment, truck and car. I am also a believer in changing my oil frequently.
Castrol has a decent amount of Titanium.
Valvoline has been doing a great job on my Saab Turbo. It’s a high compression four-cylinder turbo with 260 hp.I have the Valvoline place down the street do it. They are always busy and do a good job. I drive it less than 5000 miles a year but change the oil every year.
If I were you I would change the oil twice a year. 5,000 mls a year is not much but you are probably putting those miles in town, so there are a lot of stops and goes, unless those 5,000 are run driving a few long distance trips. Just a recommendation.
@@albertopalma1663 Next oil change I’m going to do an oil analysis and ship it in for the results. If it suggest I need to change the interval I will otherwise I’m going to keep it what it is. I have a feeling that it will be fine Because I’m using their full synthetic
Get out of Comiefornia!!!!!
supertech 5w-30 full synthetic, all the the way, all day, everyday! just use a Mobil 1-212A oil filter( for 2015 chevy impala limited)
killer oil, esp, with NO OIL LEAKS AND NO OIL BLOW BY, on vvt Di. V6 ENGINE. I BEAT THE PISS OUT OUT, of my impala, and it comes back for more and more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bingo ! Just the way I roll !
Lol
I’ve been changing my own oil since 1965. I have been very cognizant of what ratings are on oils. I follow all ratings and purchase oil based on those ratings. My oil changes originally (1965) started at around $3 (including filter). Today I’m doing between $15-$18 (including Supertech $3 oil filter or Toyota $5 OEM filter). I purchase oil that’s on sale only, brand doesn’t matter, ratings do matter. In the 60’s and 70’s any engine that went over 100,000 miles was a rarity, we just didn’t keep cars that long. Even in the 80’s, cars didn’t go that high of mileage. My first car that went over this was a 1990 Lincoln Town car, bought used from a lease at 33,000 miles, and sold at 157,000 miles, because the wheel wells were starting to develop rust (Chicago area salt). After I switched to Honda’s, every one lasted at least 150,000 miles average. In 2006 I changed to synthetic oils, and that 2006 Accord 4 cyl. lasted over 200,000 miles before a black ice accident totaled it. I changed oil every 6,000 mile intervals on that Honda. I now change at 5,000 mile intervals & use Supertech oil filters. I use car mfg. oil viscosity recommendations and buy oil on sale, any brand that meets API, etc. ratings. Thanks....Jim.
And this is how it should be. It isn't too tough to be cognizant of oil maintenance.
All my ford's have 300k miles and still have original engines and transmissions.
I mean just changing the oil regularly with ANYTHING is hard for people apparently. So I think if you change the oil with some brand at 3-7k miles you are probably doing alright.
Great video, factual and honest! Yes, any oils that meet a high standard will work, I feel the same way about gasoline. I have always been a Castrol guy myself but I would not have a problem using any others in your list in a pinch. I have a Honda EU1000 generator with 1300 hours on it and still running strong!
I've used Castrol for twenty years and never had any issues always clean motor when broken down and not much wear when broken down either I'll stick with my proven Castrol
Same here!
I worked as a BMW technician - 1999 to 2003. BMW’s used Mobil 1 synthetic oil, for their “extended” life oil change interval. At 15,000 miles, the oil looked like runny tar. It was absolutely awful! The oil filter element rarely came out in one piece. The filter resembled brittle plastic at 15K miles! Regardless, it wasn’t filtering anything for many thousands of miles! I told customers to change their oil every half-interval, as displayed by the oil indicator lights (or mileage counter) located in the instrument cluster.
And damn right!! It is a free Country!!🇺🇸
Well I appreciate your opinion. I'm going to switch from Valvoline to Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-20 so I can get the best performance out of my 4.6 liter 2v
Pennzoil Platinum is way better than Mobile 1, it was not shown here but it is better than Mobile 1 and about the same price, a better base oil makes a better oil and no oil it the world has a better base oil than Pennzoil platinum, the base oil is made from natural gas, not crude oil, Mobile 1 can not compete
2018 Impala V-6, I use MOBIL1. I get it on sale at Costco for $30 and buy 2! I did use Royal Purple onetime, but I stick with Mobil 1 since. Make sure you use a quality filter with any good oil.
Well, after using Mobil 1 for years and years I recently purchased the 12 quart bulk pack of Super Tech Full Synthetic 5W-30 for $2.48/quart. Been using it for 2 years. I change the oil in my vehicles and I see Super Tech does a great job of getting dirt out of the crankcase.
I need to review the specs, but I thought that it had something to do their base oil.
Super tech in every vehicle I own
I like super tech too. 2016 sonata
Dirt out of the crankcase, interesting. The oil filter traps dirt, etc, the oil has 3 functions; Clean, Lubricate & Cool. That's what I care about in my oil and I use Purolator One oil filters, change every 5k
That's a fantastic price
I have used all of those oil with no issues at all. I have always been inclined with Valvoline full synthetic because they were the first brand I used when I started to drive plus its an American owned and operated company. At the same time, ExxonMobil is also American as well as Royal Purple but to me RP is not worth it for me. Motul has been the absolute best oil I have used and I've used pretty much every oil that's on the market. Great video.
Thanks for the comment bud! I agree, they're all good oils...just not quite worth it to penny up for RP.
I'm odd I use Valvoline because there one of the few that still have simple easy to open bottles that don't have a foil seal and still use the small cap that don't get stuck when you try to open it.
Hi Richard! Is Motul 8100 eco light 0w20 good oil?
Thank you for binging the old news about Pennzoil's bad reputation in the past.
Good chip. Brand biased for oil or car brands at this point is just a lack of intelligence. The information is out there, do the research. It's not 1985 anymore.
Car brands still are a truth. Just look at the Dodge, GM and Honda, Toyota resale values. Some brands are more reliable than others but not much difference in oil brands as you said.
Informative video! I show a Consumer Alert for engine oil Recall. Check it out.
I watched a video with a person putting different brands of oil through a series of hard tests, and in the end it came down to Royal purple vs Pennzoil 1, and the Pennzoil won. This guy knows what he's talking about
I started use Castrol edge from Mobil 1 and my gas mileage increased about 2mpg. And the car runs smooth too.
@fpeletz im gonna try this im gonna sitch oil
I agree since I also use Castrol Edge.
I use Royal Purple in my lawn mowers. RP 30W is the only synthetic oil I can find. Makes me feel special pouring it in. It's great oil too
worest over priced oil iv ever used !
I quit changing oil in my mowers years ago. Never had a engine fail the whole mower falls a part before engine trouble. My current mower is falling apart 7 years old never changed the oil only added when it's low. Engine runs perfect but everything else is almost done.
I Have been using Mobil 1 Extended performance on my ‘15 F150 3.5 ecoboost, running like new with 220,000 miles
That’s pretty sweet man! Hell yea good to hear those 3.5 engines are capable of lasting
Man got elantra 2019 4 months ago.. and started with the same oil as you... I am planning to keep this car for 6 years and tour all around Canada and US...
Do you have trouble with the direct injection causing lots of carbon buildup?
Edito Where is a video of your truck?
Jacob Sebastien No the 3.5 don’t have problems with intake valve build up. Diesel have been direct fuel injected sense day one.
I've gone to NAPA full syn and their filters. Their oil is Valvoline and their filters are Wix. Until I watched a lot of break down videos, I didn't realize what a huge difference there really is between filters. Oil change and tire rotation every 5k.
I am considering napa oil. you can right now buy napa 5w-30 fully synthetic for $18.99 (5 quart). but how long can u drive between oil changes? I typically like to go 15K miles. it doesn't say on the packaging. lots of synthetic oils will tell you right on the packing how many miles you can drive between oil changes.
@@wasatchm that's too long, oil is cheap enough that you should never go over 10,000, just inviting trouble. Claiming such long change intervals is simply a marketing strategy, while your engine may not blow up it's definitely not good for it. Engine oil is continually being contaminated through intake air, combustion, condensation. Some engines can tolerate that type of abuse better than others.
thanks. I've just talked to 2 mechanics and both said the oil will never go bad just sitting their in your vehicle. I use amsoil fully synthetic which is suppose to go up to 25K miles. it is very expensive that is why I ask. if I had cheaper synthetic oil, I would probably just change it out.
my truck I never drive (maybe 500 miles/year). so I will not waste money changing the oil in that unless it looks dirty. my car (which also uses amsoil) will get an oil change at the 24 month mark (I am currently putting about 5K miles on it per year) unless it looks dirty. I understand your point about how cheap oil is. but personally, I just think it is a sales tactic used by the oil manufacturers to sell more oil. but, I don't drive anything expensive. if I had a more expensive vehicle, I may agree with you. my vehicles are usually only worth 2K or 3K.
by the way, I think high end synthetic oil (such as amsoil) can make your engine last a long, long time without frequent oil changes. I bought a 2001 nissan frontier with 59K miles. immediately started doing 25K oil/oil filter changes using amsoil products. had no engine problems whatsoever until I hit the 327K mile mark when I blew a head gasket.
I use Amsoil which claims to be good for 25,000 miles. A few years ago I kept it in my 100,000 mile, 2006 Toyota Highlander 18,200 miles. In draining it, I sent a sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis. The report came back that the oil had remarkably little metal in it, indicating very little engine wear. The report also said that the oil was good for more miles. Personally, I don't recommend going 25,000 miles unless you have a late model car and your driving is mostly highway.
I have used all but RP... My engines all still run fine... I like Pennz plat. as well. Also Valvoline are some of the more common ones that I use.
Yeah, I have over 303K miles on my '98 CRV and I'm pretty sure I've used every oil shown in this video over the 26+ years I've owned the vehicle except RP. However over the last ten years or so I've almost always used Walmart's Supertech because it's a quality product for a very reasonable price. I buy the 5qt jug which is an even better deal.
Mobile 1 breaks down much quicker than Penn Ultra Platinum. If you have an oil pressure Guage in your vehicle and keep watch over the oil change lifespan, you will absolutely notice the difference.
Not to mention the many scientific tests right here on YT that prove exactly what I'm saying.
I made the switch after years of using Mobile 1 and I couldn't be happier
I have 2010 ford fusion 2.5L 4 cy. have used most of oil's in your video and can tell you not much difference in performance and mpg. They all good! go to walmart and save some $$ most of the oil's listed are sold there !! it is a personal preference thing !!
Thanks for the comment! I definitely agree. Sad thing is, those are Walmart prices that I used in the video haha.
I was using Pennzoil Synthetic until my truck started burning it (it does have 199,000 miles though). I ended up changing over to Mobile 1 and noticed it didn't burn it as quickly.
Try replacing a quart of oil with a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer, as someone who has used it for years and knows plenty of people that do as well it’ll help that burning of oil and prolong the life of the engine
I've used mobile 1 synthetic for decades and so has my father. Yes it's more expensive unfortunately but have never had any issues.
I only buy SuperTech. Same stuff as all the other brands, they just don’t have to pay expensive marketing fees.
Just put castrol edge in my turbo Subaru xt for the first oil change since I got it 3 months ago it’s great to here that it stands up to high temperatures because I’m in az
I’ve been using Royal Purple since 1993. What it did for my Audi 5 cylinder with a thrust bearing knock. I’ve been called a lier, but that knock vanished within a month of using at that time called 41 a 10/40 racing oil.
With using Royal Purple lubricants. The first thing you want is to look to see if the Royal Purple you want to purchase, should have the following preparatory addicted called Synerlec. HPS, for high performance engines with additional additives for bearings, XPR is racing oils & they are outstanding. MaxCycle is RP’s motorcycle oils which have high zinc content.
Put the oils on Lubricity tester. The HPS & especially the XPR & MaxCycle are just fantastic. Test all top rated oils on the machine. Have oil analysts done on oils that are in your vehicle to see how well the additive packages are holding up or failing by absorbing by products of a operating engine.
I use/used SuperTech in my lease, I have to say, 6k mile intervals and the oil is still dark honey color on the rag, meaning it hasn't fully broken down, quite impressed, especially for the price for a 6qt oil change, pennzoil/ supertech are my go too's
Rob Cottino TGMO 0W16 is the best out there. It still looks like new after 10-15k miles.
I use Castrol Edge in my Camaro and I use Pennzoil Platinum in my Dodge Charger
Just change your oil! Period
That is true...that's the first step that most people don't even bother to do anymore haha.
Very true
It's not quite that simple any more. You can change it every day if you want to but if the oil doesn't meet the required spec the you will still encounter problems.
@@paulanderson79 This is also true, but it's pretty hard to find an oil nowadays that doesn't meet the required specs...that I've found anyway.
@@MidwestGarage My car requires oil meeting either ACEA C1 or JASO Dl-1. I've never encountered a mineral oil that meets these specifications. Not that I've looked because I'm quite happy following engine makers recommendations. Here is The EU there is almost no demand for mineral oils.
I’ve tried em all and Ive put some Engines through heck for testing.. I will forever stick with Amsoil... expensive but you get what you pay for
Another Oil I’m also trying out is Redline 0w40 . (Have a feeling it’s gonna be neck and neck between the two) I’m running it in my Son’s 2020 CanAm 570 Factory Oil was drained at 500KM We ride hard with our Quads in the Winter here in Canada so I’m excited to have a sample tested in the summer from my buddy at the University. I will report back with results
I always use Pennzoil platinum full synthetic high mileage 5w-30 it cleans pistons and more best oil ever
Lol more best oil ever? I agree it's good stuff.
I agree
Chris O. Well he is close the oil better oil than pennzoil is Asmoil and asmoil is the best
Is ultra platinum worth buying? I have a n/a v6 engine? Thanks
Cosco full syn $14 / 5 qt.
Same as SuperTech.
Also works great for wood fences, long cabins,
&c.
Best bang/buck.
I've been using mobil1 since in the 90's and it never failed me. I won't use anything else period. Plus walmart sells the 5 qt.10w-30 full synthetic for $22.99 cant beat that for sure
I'm honestly surprised to hear that Super Tech out performs Valvoline. I've always used Valvoline for motor oil and transmission fluid.
it dosn't. valvoline is better than all these oils he showed. i have been using valvoline all my life and it works wonders!
I always use valvoline after using most of the brands.
And l' always will stick to valvoline full syntetic.
Valvoline makes the best engine oil, ATF, ATF+4, CVT fluid and all gear oils, like 75w90, 80w90 and 75w140... they also make LSAs (Limited Slip Additives) for advanced differentials and lubricating grease.... trusted for 150 years
Valvoline is trash. Oil analysis shows it has a terrible additive package and a sub 9 TBN.
@@reginaldwilsonviii1446 Oh! I just switched brands to try Valvoline 5w-30, please show me the results of that test, if the oil is bad I'll change right away!!!
I've used Penzoil and valvoline for most of my younger years (conventional). I've been using super tech synthetics due to buying it in the past for the same price as standard oil from standard brands. Haven't had a single engine or oil related issue with a vehicle since using supertech. 108k miles on my tundra using 0W20 supertech, had a Mitsubishi raider pickup before that made it to 150k no major trouble aside from it being a Dodge Dakota with a Mitsubishi badge. As long as standards and maintenance intervals are met supertech will definitely do the job. Not saying its better but definitely shoots above the belt price wise.
Supertech haha. You really don’t care about your vehicles do you? No they don’t bottle supertech and mobil 1 in the same factory bubs.
@@teamdada2194never said they were bottled in the same facility. I've owned 6 or 7 vehicles and never had a single oil related problem or engine issue other than maintenance items (coil packs, spark plugs, belts ect.). Always followed the owners manual for viscosity. Sold the tundra at 185k miles, Mitsubishi at 158k miles.
@@trentfranks4507 I know you didn’t say that. I stated that to answer the replys before they all came out and said it. I’ve heard it at least a thousand times. I would never use supertech unless it was a lease vehicle but to each their own.
@@teamdada2194tell us what is wrong with SuperTech, since you’re such an expert.
@@Jake-iw6qm no expert but it’s cheap for a reason. Spend another $5 a gallon and buy better oil. It’s not like you have to drop the oil every 2 mths. I use synthetic mobil 1 and drop it twice a yr. Using supertech for cars and trucks is like using rotella for semi trucks. Completely idiotic. The same guys doing that are the same guys buying china steer tires or walmart china tires for the car guys. Cmon.
Supertech Full Synthetic 5w30 is available in 5 quart jugs for 13.97 at my local Walmart. I love the stuff. They even have the high mileage variety for the same price.
I’m currently using Castrol Edge, I’m really pleased with it so far!
Bryant Turner me too !!!!
Not just brand and product name.
I've been using it in all my cars and I'm very happy with it.
My 2015 Nissan Versa Note likes Castrol Edge. I switched from Mobil 1. I got an increase of 2mpg after 600 miles of driving.
Can i use castrol edge on my scooter.
$40 a 5 quart oil change for castrol it’s $22 at Walmart for the 5 quart
Walmart has the best Oil prices
I'm sure if you hunt around, you can find it for $40 for 5 quarts, lol.
I was at Autozone and for 33$ they had Castrol Edge 5 quart can With the filter. Then I spent $6 for the oil wrench and well - I'm satisfied.
@@a.jennings4664 if you hunt hard enough I'm sure you could find it for $60 a jug...
@@metalmike570 about the same in advance Auto parts but 3 of my cars take two 5L jugs each so I always wind up with lots of extra filters😋
I use Valvoline full synthetic in my 95 Mustang gt.
Try amsoil next time.
Baxter Frederick I’ll give it a try. I haven’t had any problems with Valvoline. And been using it for 10 years on that car
Not by amy means telling you what to do,i have a 35 year old 350Small block with 300k+ and amsoil is by far the best move. Do some looking into it. Some guy literally does an oil shoot-out and amsoil wins all tests hands down. Also exceeds all ANSI testing AND ratings against the competitors. Do the homweork and do the switch. I switched from royal purple to Amsoil and my oldschool 75 yr old racing grandpa swears by it. Hope i turn you onto something awesome. Have a great day brother
I use amsoil signature full synthetic woth a K&N gold wrench off filter. Best combo
Baxter Frederick damn I’m gonna have to give it a try. I think I know which video you’re talking about too. I’ve seen it on here
Excellent video Sir👍🏻!
working out of our 2022 F-350 XL reg cab long bed 2wd with the 6.2 Gas, regularly using since new, the Pennzoil Synthetic Blend 5w30 or the Valvoline Daily Driver 5w30 Synthetic Blend, both performing extremely well after always changing oil & filter right at 5,000 mile intervals! Thanks again for your videos!
Good video!! As you said ALL the oils are good so it just depends on what your partial too. Me I prefer Valvoline Max Life as Ive never had any issues whatsoever with it. My 2nd choice would be Pennzoil. Ive never used RP, Mobil 1 or Castrol so dont have an opinion on those brands but Im sure they work just fine.
Stay away from Castrol oils. I've used it and it runs hot and kinda rough. Mobil1 is great and what I usually use. This oil change I used Pennzoil Platinum. Seems like a good oil but have noticed the engine temp runs a couple degrees warmer. RP is an ok oil but in my experience it lasts about 2k miles and starts to break down. More of a racing oil that's changed often.
I buy Mobile 1 high mileage synthetic and pay between 23-26 dollars for 5 quarts at Walmart! Same stuff at Orelly's and AutoZone was middle to high 30's. Walmart is the winner price wise and a great oil, a win win!
Valvoline is used at my local Toyota Dealership. Has their little logo for next oil change. Don’t own a Toyota but I saw it actually in a new 2019.
I always knew Castrol was meant for high performance engines... +1 to nascar for correct information
I've been using mobile 1 synthetic oil on my cars/trucks for years. My 2008 Tahoe and Silverado both bought new 0 miles currently have 200k+ each. Can't speak for the other oils since I havent used them but I'm happy with what I use so I'll stick to it.
Mobil 1 is the best hands down. As an aerospace engineer I’ve been around the block with oils
@@seedplex8551 ..... Amsoil is the proven the best in empirical testing. By FAR!
I have a lifter tap and I used super tech 10w-40 and it didn’t go away and I used mobil 1 10w-40 and it went away for a while and Royal purple is so far my favorite proven results it cleans the inside of your engine
Super tech is my favorite. I see no need to pay for a name when it's just as good to get the cheaper one.
Their filters are good also.
I'm using super tech to break-in my mini bike all I've used in my other mini bike for 5 years. Seems to be good oil I'm using high mileage synthetic as an add in oil on top of mobile one high mileage for my s10 with 280 k on it.
Exactly...Been using it for many years now .... No issues
Thank you for confirming that even SuperTech is highly rated.
Happens to be what I use for my 2011 Silverado. My neighbor always gives me shit about using "Walmart Brand" I pointed out all the approvals.
Since I only change my oil once a year, even though SuperTech may be fine, Mobile 1 is only around 10.00 more. So to know for sure (yeah I'm biased) that I have a very good oil for the next year, that 10.00 more is well worth it to me.
Valvoline and AMSOIL is what I've always used and always been happy
Mobile 1 extended performance or Annual pretection and Amsoil XL or signature series are my choices. Amsoil is really great if you want a really high detergent content , especially with the signature series. The higher detergent is great for engines and parts that are really sensitive to dirty oil like VVT engines and timing chain oilers. If you do a lot of short triping or sitting idle in traffic, Sludge could potentially be a problem as well. The higher detergent eliminates that risk. One thing I've found with Amsoil is that if you purchase a used car with higher miles and decide to use Amsoil in it you will find out if the last owner wasn't the best on oil changes, The engine may not hold onto the oil. Amsoil is great at revealing old warn seals. This happens because over time from not changing oil on time or using junk oil sludge can build up at the seals allowing the seal to dry out and crack. When this happens the sludge is really acting as a seal. The high detergent level in the Amsoil will clean that sludge off the seal allowing the oil to actually reach it. But since it's dried out and cracking the oil will push past and now you can see the problem that was always there you just didn't know about it until the Amsoil revealed it to you. This kinda thing can happen with any synthetic oil it's just more pronounced with Amsoil because it has a much better detergent package than most oils.
i rode out the wave on royal purple sevral oil changes plus filter changes between oil changes and having to add oil at first and even clouds of smoke on startups . now its beautiful and clean, loud engine tic i started with is now just a little one for about 15 seconds and no oil consumption . its was a rebuild in a bottle ( ok several bottles and a dozen filters ).
Mobil 1, not what you wrote
No it happens because you over clean and lube seals if your a start and stop driver. If short trips are what you do then don’t use an oil with high detergent additives.
Very hard to find a crap quality oil these days. I normally stick with what has worked for me. Valvoline full synthetic, Mobil 1, and Rotella T6 for my diesels.
Try red line engine oil
It's ONE thing to simply "MEET" those "Standards," but quite
ANOTHER to EXCEED them. A High quality synthethic ex-
ceeds those standards.
Exceeds the standards by how much ?
you get what you pay for
@@terrymills6281 Pretty much, yeh.
Been using Pennzoil Platinum since they came out with it. Great stuff. Never had an issue that was directly related to the oil
I heard that the only true synthetic oil is Pennzoil Platinum because it's the only one made from natural gas, while the other brands are treated with chemicals, etc.
I have been using Super Tech last few years but before that I used nothing but Penzoil and changed my oil every 3-3.5K miles and I always had a clean engine when I would drop a oil pan or valve cover. Penzoil works but I saw videos on Super Tech and it lab tested good and I could save a few dollars. I also did a lab test on the High mileage Conventional Super Tech with close to 4k miles and it came back good as well.
I use various brands, but my eu2000i honda generators are my precious. To transition to synthetic makes me nervious. They are clean. Blend then full synthetic???
I love Valvoline and Pennzoil 👍🏻 been using Pennzoil platinum full synthetic high mileage in my 2010 dodge avenger with 142,000+ miles on it and it runs great!!
Yes this seems to be the winner but is it worth buying it for my 2017 Corrolla ?
@@randomheroyoutubesure, as long as the viscosity and the API certification meet Toyota specifications.
I have been using Supertech oil for over 15 years. I have used this oil in 6 vehicles; Nissan, Toyota, Dodge, and Subaru brand vehicles. Never had a problem.
Damn, I remember when a quart used to cost like 79 cents in the early 90's, albeit conventional oil.
Damn is right! Granted oils are a lot more advanced nowadays the inflation is just crazy...hard to imagine anymore. Thank you for the comment!
@@MidwestGarage I buy the 5 quart jug at Walmart. It brings the price per quart way down.
@@randomchannel2591 I always do the same. The quart prices are more so for comparison of perception of value from each company. These are also Walmart prices, but of course your area and state tax and stuff will make the prices different too. Thank you for the comment!
A lot of us can go back farther than that when it was .50/qt. lol
Only 15 years ago I was buying Valvoline conv. for $0.99 and Mobil1 for $4.99 at Sears. Crude oil was a tad cheaper though.
Really about the only oil I would say to avoid because it's a bit too cheap is STP conventional. The worst Synthetic will keep your engine cleaner than the best blend. If you have a Port injected N/A engine made in the last 15 years, and you want to buy an expensive oil filter, don't exceed 10000 miles. Otherwise, don't exceed 5k. It's not the oil that makes the limits, it's the filter. That is, unless you have a DI or forced induction engine. These engines have a higher cylinder pressure and force more fuel into the crankcase. Fuel contamination rapidly decreases the film strength and lowers the flash point of oil. Do not appreciably exceed 5k on any DI or turbo/S/C motor. You will smell fuel in the oil, it will more quickly degrade seals and lines, and it will increase friction in high stress areas.
Well done mate from Australia 🇦🇺 great job 🏁💓.
Awesome thank you!
Pennzoil Platinum is without question the best. i have a hyped up dodge challenger R/T 5.7 hemi, i was getting carbon deposits building up on my piston tops even with a catch can. but oil will always slip past especially through the valve guide seals . i used mobil 1 when the problem was occurring . i switched to castrol edge and ran it a few years and was still getting carbon build up . after cleaning off piston tops when my heads were off i switched to pennzoil platinum 2 years ago and theres no more carbon ! . all oils were 0/40 but penn eliminated the carbon .
That's what I use on my lightning and now on a suburban they have dexos.
Wrong, Best oil for hard driving is Castrol Edge 10/60. Forget paid ads of "oil tests "and all crap from RUclips "experts".
I've used valvoline high milage for a long time.. Had a 93 suburban I bought with 193,000 miles on it . Used valvoline in it since I bought it.. I sold it with 325,000 on it and still running pretty good.. Never needed to do any major work to engine.. Thanks for the videos Buddy!
Thanks bud! That's a lot of miles, that's awesome!
No matter which oil, a quality filter is maybe even more important.
Very good video. I love the way you explained things. Very easy to understand. I'm currently using mobil1 full synthetic oil. I pay $11.49 for 1qt, and $38.99 for a 5qt.
Buy it at walmart. Its cheaper
My brand is the one thats on sale or offers a rebate at the time. If none are on sale, I go with Supertech. Its more important to change your oil on time instead of focusing on the brand.
3 questions to ask when buying oil.
Is it the right weight?
Does the manual call for synthetic or conventional?
How much do I need?
And that’s it!
I had a 2006 xtrail that was burning oil, when I would check oil level,it would be below the line. I tried mobil, Pennsville, valvoline and Castrol. Castrol was the only oil that resisited burning and never needed topping up. It worked with that suv really well. Excellent video!
Some people say only use high mileage oil if your engine is showing signs of wear?
That sounds logical to me(no matter what anybody tells me - lol).
Yes, they do have a different additive package.
basically the good oils are pretty much all gonna get the job done, i find that its the filters that is overlooked
I’m a Pennzoil Platinum guy 💪🏾
me too!!, the best base oil makes the best oil, it needs fewer additives that may not be good for your engine
When I went to automotive school in the 90s the oldest instructor drove a 67 Ford ¾ton with very high miles. He said he would only use Pennzoil and it's been my brand ever since.
Don't remember what brands I started buying when I first started doing oil changes, but eventually I settled on whatever was cheapest on Amazon when it came to buy oil, so long as I got the right weight. Usually Castrol GTX or Edge was the cheapest and it just so happens that Mazda (car I own) recommends Castrol for its engines. But now I'm seeing Castrol's oil is expensive on Amazon. So for my last oil change, I got Valvoline.
I recently found out Havoline sells 6 quarts for $20 which is a steal. Getting that for next time.
To be perfectly honest with you I have no loyalty to any brand I determine my oil based on my intended application, use, and the needs of the engine and parts. Looking up the oil and what additives are mixed into the base oil helps me determine what i'm going to use. For example, some oils lubricate better than others, and some are better at cleaning based on the chemicals added to the base oil as a small example.
Been using Mobil 1 for years and recently switched to Pennsoil Platinum with great results with compression and performance. What really interests me now is the new Rotella 5-30 that's outperformed Mobil 1 in many tests which I'm trying next!
Pennsoil has a lot of graphite in it
@@blaiseingram7214 is that good or bad, which would you recommend
I stopped using Valvoline high-mileage back in the late 90's because it didn't carry the API Service 'doughnut', I switched to Castrol, but these were petroleum oils. Now that everything is just around 100% synthetic, it's an entirely different ball game, and as he said, with marginal differences. I knew about Pennzoil's issues back in the 70's and 80's with regards to sludge caused by the naturally-occuring paraffin in oils from the State of Pennsylvania.
Great video on the Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage oil 😊
I don't see AMSOIL as part of your test.... AMSOIL Signature Series is the BEST.
Valvoline made my engine work harder. It was louder, and lost gas mileage. Normal use with Mobil was 34 mi/gal. Normal use with Valvoline dropped to 31 mi/gal. Changed the oil, and used Castrol Magnetec. Huge difference. Acceleration was better, and was quieter for cold starts. Fuel economy went back to 34 mi/gal. Changed at 10,000 miles, but was still a quiet engine.
What car was it ?
@@kkiddankk8494 Ford Escape 2.5l no turbo.
I had a 2014 Ford escape eco-boost and I recommend Motorcraft 5W 20.
@@sherrokinchen5253 for winter I’ve gone to Pennzoil High Mileage synthetic 0w-20 with Marvel Mystery. Winter starts are so much better.