If the cable is already in the ground, fit the cable to the box and gland it, then mount the box to the wall. That way you have a little leeway for height.
Fixing the box to the wall before attaching the cables creates a potential back injury issue. We have a little camping chair where we connect the cables while sitting with the unit across our knees. Way less bending and awkward angles. Once cables attached, then attach to wall. This allows for any mistakes in cutting the cable too short.
Hey, Jordan, you ordering an electric VAN is simply a fantastic announcement ! Congratulations for your decision ! I'm looking forward, seeing the exciting moment when it's being delivered.
Next time you install an A2 and once you have stripped the cables and are happy with the fitment, pull the armoured cable back out of the A2 and mark out a template from the entry gland cut up to the 3 core ends. Any future A2 installs will be a lot quicker and easier to mark and cut each point using the same template from entry gland upwards before feeding into the A2. Bit of a minor faff the first time, but worth it.
If it was me I would have taken the charger off of the wall, pulled the armoured further through, made it off then put the charger back off and finish the gland! I’m no electrition but always love to find an easier way of doing fiddly tasks like that😂
I wish you luck with the T6 LWB 82 mile range when empty van. A few of us tried them out and unless you're city based it's just not got the range, the E-Vivaro would have been a better choice imo. Lovely install but normally we'd dead test the customer supplied cable before fitting the charger - saving a potential wasted day if it has been damaged when buried.
@@artisanelectrics It comes with some nice perks, assisted breaking etc for parking in town but quite often finding a parking spot for a LWB can be a pain. So much so we won't use LWB vans for our city center, so hopefully your parking situation is far better than Little London by Sea.
We won't install those anymore since they removed installer discount and don't pay for call backs. Top job as always though. The internal type a RCD always failed tripping times to.
That stuby ratchet is the best thing in the world. I was working on a rather unique bit of kit on one of the new Royal Navy aircraft carries, and we had to disassemble half the system to get one board out so we could reprogram it, an American chap came over from the OEM with one of those tiny ratchets and popped it out with 2 screws we could never have dreamed of accessing! Made 25 mins to reprogram into 10, most of which was flashing the EEPROM.
That is a TPN service head. There is a secondary head and that is for E7 (hence the single control fuse and E7 meters). The main head is TPN then you have that secondary TPN head used for E7. There is TPN MCBs as well fed from the main head. I see this type of setup in this area quite a bit where the incomer is TPN and then a secondary head for E7 using a TPN head just to confuse you. Also as that secondary head is fused back at the substation I would be securing the link (split con or civil duct I cannot tell) that had the SWA hanging off it. Now if you open the top part of the main head you will find three BS88 fuses going off to that TPN panel. This should only be a DNO job though. But that will be the main TPN supply. Hope this helps 🤓.
Those little holesaws are great if you cut some carpet underlay you can push it in and fill it with cutting oil and they will last longer and will self lube
Crap Sparks..... you could even ask why he use 3phase delta cable on a single phase install, failed to correctly identify conductors (70% coverage of crap or L1, N, E tape) just another shoddy job!
Depends on the manufacturers instructions and the specific model of charger. Several models have a 6mA DC protection integrated, there a type A RCD is sufficient. But some have not, for example the older Tesla charger don't have DC protection in it, so a type B RCD is mandatory. Alternative to type B RCD is the type A+EV, but there's only one manufacturer for that (Doepke). It's a type A RCD with a 6mA DC protection.
@@paulegan1476 Either type A or B, depending on the charger which type is required. The ones with integrated DC protection are more expensive than the ones without. But the price difference in the charger doesn't matter, because if you pick the cheaper charger you'll have to invest in the more expensive type B RCD. And never install two RCDs in series, except the first one is a time-delayed and the tripping current at least three times higher than the one coming afterwards.
In Germany, three-phase 11 kW chargers are common. For 22 kW you need the approval of the electricity supplier, for 11 kW you only have to report the installation. That is then 3x 16 amps. A disadvantage is when a car only wants to charge one phase 32 amps and is reduced to 16 amps. That would be only 3600 watts to an 11 kW three phase charging point.
Better to connect the armouring to earth both ends , there's no doubt about it , if the cpc in the cable is lost at source you still have the armouring as protection , your right you don't have to but should do for the reason I have just explained
If you refer to a reasonable height in a repetitive industrialized environment it would be called the " Golden zone" not too high , not too low. A comfortable distant for the average human. Midrift area. 👍👍
The idea of a power cable with a data cable built-in goes against everything I was taught about running CAT5 cables and not running them closely in parallel with high current power cables. I'm guessing that these combined power and data cables have the appropriate shielding to mitigate this.
@@aaronmdjones in the netherlands. when there needs to be HIGH quality installations the signal cables are run next to high power but in a seperate cable tray. outside also in a seperate tube or flex or whatever. in theory is sounds fine to have high power next to signal cables but practice tells different! so i never never never do that
@@irshicosmos3233 if the cable manufacturer warrants its okay, that seems reason enough to trust them. And let’s be fair, high power AC actually doesn’t interfere very much with gigabit Ethernet. The main problem is safety. You never want to run Ethernet cable alongside mains wiring that could have its insulation damaged. But these special cables presumably have solved this problem.
The armoured gland goes on the outside of the box. The glands IP rated so won't effect the first part of the enclosure. The cable then just goes through the inner gland to be connected
I would of be more interested in seeing EV charge point installs in house with no drives or front gardens. Cable grates and other methods of crossing the pavements. I know you charge a premium. But there's only so many premium installs i can watch.
It truly is beautiful. I swapped my Porsche Mobile Charger Connect (and mount) for it… although Andersen themselves are buggers for adding “extras” to the install. ;)
Question for you. Does the charging cable have to be fully unwound when you are charging your vehicle ,if you only need 2m of when parked up will the cable left inside the unit get warm.
Top tip, Wera Hex keys snap at exactly 0.7Nm so you just need to buy one per screw. But search for "Sealey STS103 Digital Torque Screwdriver" I have one it takes any standard hex bits.
You guys should think about showing the setting up of these chargers, I can't believe that you don't have a single issue with connection to them wi-fi some times or on the zappi getting the hub to connect. Maybe showing one in which when you get a problem with the connectivity to make them smart how you get around this would be good to see.
Would that EV cable with the Cat5 built in not drop a lot packets! Even shielded Cat5 running in a conduit shared with AC power is gonna give a lot of interference. But for just a control panel on a charger I guess having good transfer speeds isn't too vital so it'll work.
Damn, I wish you guys were in France because I find your videos super handy and am in need of a charging point from a modern electric company :) Cheers guys
i have the Wera hex plus set the short and long one butt i have the normal set not the stainless you have and i am having no problem with it using it daily as a industrial electrician.
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this Jordan. The Anderson EV claims compliance with Regulation 722.411.4.1 (iii) and (iv) this is a single-phase charge point (iv) on a installation with a 3 phase supply (iii). With (iii) the regulation allows either a reference pin or a device that references all 3 phases of the supply, and you must allow for phase loss. As you are only connected to a single-phase it can’t comply with (iii) and according to Regulation you should not install equipment complying with (iv)
Oh yeah!! You pick up the cushty installs with cable installed ready to go and poor Corey gets angel drill hell !! Only messing lol 😂 keep up the good work and love the professionalism of you guys!!
Hi Jordan, noticed recently that people are picking up a 32 amp supply from the consumer unit and fitting those commando sockets outside to charge there Tesla's at 7/8 kw instead of fitting a dedicated charger..is this ok/safe to charge this way?
Jordan, The A2 is a nice looking charger👌 I think you have missed a very important item 🤔 on that install. I didn't see you fit an A type RCD to the supply circuit in that video!!
Speaking as somebody with a buddy with a house in Portugal it's because you put the oven on, watch tv and turn on your laptop you overload one phase, it's extremely necessary. In the UK it's rare because most people don't need it.
Gland the SWA into the bottom of the charger, take the bedding through the stuffing gland then strip back to individual cores. And earth thevarmour at the other end as you did.
Hello, do you know that if you connect an 30kw single phase to those 22 KW three phase ev charger, same phase on the 3 wires, does the car charger at 22kw? Because they say 7kw single phase charger. Thanks
I dont think its about 'convenient height', more about disability laws. You have to put things at 'convenient height' for the 0.001% of people that use wheelchairs, rather than the 99.999% of people that use legs.
Had my Ergostrip for a few years now, no bluntness as it only gets used on soft sheathed cables ie. flex and meter tails etc. Use the right tool for the job and they’ll last for many, many years. Stanley knife for stripping the outer sheath on SWA as the blades are dirt cheap Loads of torque wrenches on the market with 1/4” square drive which you can then put a long or ball ended hex on
Jordan, I use a "Smith's" fishing hook sharpner for dull small blades on the job. It's shaped like a pen with a clip for the pocket. It has a 100mm long 6mm Diameter round diamond sharpner reducing to a point. It also has a flat edge as well, perfect for hardened but intricate blades. I'm sure you would find it useful. Great video mate with good info re water damage etc. Looking forward to the next one 🤗
Would the same 6mm cable size be ok to run to a detached garage for lights/sockets etc, & still be future proofed for an EV charger (have enough headroom)?
Could have done with some grey trunking to soften the effect of the black cable on the outside wall. Charger looks good but you do have to pay for it! Thanks for sharing, All the best
While I understand about SWA cable, would be be good to run it in plastic gray electrical conduit so it can be painted and blend more with the wall? Keep up with good work sir! 👍
@@haldo691 I forget you have black ducting over there. In the US it’s all gray electrical pvc conduit which is our uv stabilized version. Then a lot of people paint it to match.
Great vid, fitted on of these last week. NICE. The spec sheet says you need to be fitting an A type RCBO upstream or A type RCD + mcb or I’m reading it wrong? Great news about your electric van, I’ve been waiting for mine for over 3 months.
We have the same issue As in we are having our garden paved But on a waiting list to have charger fitted Should we lay a cable like they’ve done Or would it be better to lay a conduit with a length of light rope as a pull through
The EV ultra cable is sensible for data, but you could potentially just have data over powerline if there was no chance of a wireless signal? Wonder if anyone's considered integrating that in.
How did you resolve the PEN cut-off with only the 3 core SWA cable. Or have I missed something in previous vids. Great vides by the way. Keep them coming.
Great video. I have an Andersen A2 and a Tesla M3LR, but I cannot get it to work with the Andersen “Scheduled” charging feature of their Konnect+ app. When the scheduled charge kicks in the Tesla only sees 5amps and therefore says it will take hours and hours to charge. This doesn’t happen if I don’t use the scheduled charge feature and just plug the A2 into the Tesla, it then sees 32amps and charges normally. I reported it to Andersen, but unhelpful they said it is a Tesla issue. What is your view on the A2 and scheduled charging with a Tesla please,
Not when you read the spec sheet it says upstream protection by type A RCD ? We think they moved the type A function out like other manufacturers are doing.
I really think the Anderson units are the best looking on the market, with a great choice of finish and colour options. However, they don’t look to be very well thought through when it comes to installing them, which is a shame!
@@JasperJanssen if you are connecting into a three phase distribution board it is good practice to confirm correct phase rotation at the distribution board
Small world, I was wondering just this morning exactly what kind of infrastructure I could theasably pre install for a potential future e.v without too much commitment to actually getting one
Great install, could you have put the cable through the wall at the bottom and gone rear entry? Could you gland the SWA to the outer case of the charger and use a Wisla gland on the flexible sheath of the SWA at the IP section?
Those are the stainless keys they produce, stainless isn't a very strong metal compared to S2 tool steel. Get the regular hex plus ones if you want a strong set of tools from them, other than that their tools are great!
I was looking at the ultra ev cable and it comes with either cat 5e four twisted pair or with a screened pair. Do you have any preference? Do you think we would need cat 5e in the future or is this for lack of WiFi? Thanks, Stuart
Four pairs is more than one. So for future proofing, go with that one, especially if the cost differential is not that significant compared to what you’d pay someone to dig a new trench for more cable. There’s a bunch of current charge points that can already handle up to three current transformers, on three separate pairs of wire. But then there are also usually solutions for the monitoring of those CTs to be done at the site and just transmit data, usually wirelessly, to the charge point. So… I mean, this really is a “just in case” sort of outlay. Even the single pair is, really. But I have no idea what the effective extra cost is from just power to single pair to cat5. But my bet is that single pair or cat5 isn’t a huge difference in cost. A secondary usage for these cables, which is not what they’re marketed for, but… outbuildings. The shed/pool house/granny annex at the back of the garden. Those are *immensely* helped by power+cat5 in one cable.
I would have glanded the cable first cleated it then fit the carcharger at the length you have terminated saves faffing on trying to get the correct length also with the Anderson charger I would just use a stuffing gland at the charger side and gland the armouring at the DB end.
Request a quote from Artisan Electrics here - app.openquote.net/company/artisanelectrics
If the cable is already in the ground, fit the cable to the box and gland it, then mount the box to the wall. That way you have a little leeway for height.
Exactly what I was thinking it’s about saving time and making things easy in this game and of course doing it safely
Was going to say the same thing
Fixing the box to the wall before attaching the cables creates a potential back injury issue. We have a little camping chair where we connect the cables while sitting with the unit across our knees. Way less bending and awkward angles. Once cables attached, then attach to wall. This allows for any mistakes in cutting the cable too short.
@@achmadosman9807 yea it’s so much faster to do it on the floor too
Very kind of you to shout me out Jordan. I'll definitely be using the strippers when I get the chance
Bet youve said that before in your younger days del mate 😉😂
@@dans5101 :') :')
From an IT engineer, those KNIPEX strippers are a lifesaver in taking off the sheath on CAT5e. Thank you for the recommendation.
Thanks! Glad you like them
Hey, Jordan, you ordering an electric VAN is simply a fantastic announcement ! Congratulations for your decision ! I'm looking forward, seeing the exciting moment when it's being delivered.
That’s it Jordan help another brother out 👍 delroy’s a good bloke
Totally
Can't wait for a tour of your new e-Transporter!!
Thanks!
Next time you install an A2 and once you have stripped the cables and are happy with the fitment, pull the armoured cable back out of the A2 and mark out a template from the entry gland cut up to the 3 core ends. Any future A2 installs will be a lot quicker and easier to mark and cut each point using the same template from entry gland upwards before feeding into the A2. Bit of a minor faff the first time, but worth it.
If it was me I would have taken the charger off of the wall, pulled the armoured further through, made it off then put the charger back off and finish the gland!
I’m no electrition but always love to find an easier way of doing fiddly tasks like that😂
Spot on bud!
Australian sparky here, really enjoy your channels vids, interesting to see electrical in another country :)!!
I always put the gland onto whatever you are glanding into first. Like what you did back at the DB
I wish you luck with the T6 LWB 82 mile range when empty van. A few of us tried them out and unless you're city based it's just not got the range, the E-Vivaro would have been a better choice imo. Lovely install but normally we'd dead test the customer supplied cable before fitting the charger - saving a potential wasted day if it has been damaged when buried.
Good point! Yeah we’re gonna just use it got local jobs, I will still use the Tesla for the long journeys
@@artisanelectrics It comes with some nice perks, assisted breaking etc for parking in town but quite often finding a parking spot for a LWB can be a pain. So much so we won't use LWB vans for our city center, so hopefully your parking situation is far better than Little London by Sea.
We won't install those anymore since they removed installer discount and don't pay for call backs. Top job as always though. The internal type a RCD always failed tripping times to.
Yes, it is the most beautiful electric charger on the market for sure. I have one and it's brilliant. Andersen the company are brilliant.
That stuby ratchet is the best thing in the world. I was working on a rather unique bit of kit on one of the new Royal Navy aircraft carries, and we had to disassemble half the system to get one board out so we could reprogram it, an American chap came over from the OEM with one of those tiny ratchets and popped it out with 2 screws we could never have dreamed of accessing! Made 25 mins to reprogram into 10, most of which was flashing the EEPROM.
Cool thanks for sharing
That is a TPN service head. There is a secondary head and that is for E7 (hence the single control fuse and E7 meters). The main head is TPN then you have that secondary TPN head used for E7. There is TPN MCBs as well fed from the main head. I see this type of setup in this area quite a bit where the incomer is TPN and then a secondary head for E7 using a TPN head just to confuse you. Also as that secondary head is fused back at the substation I would be securing the link (split con or civil duct I cannot tell) that had the SWA hanging off it.
Now if you open the top part of the main head you will find three BS88 fuses going off to that TPN panel. This should only be a DNO job though. But that will be the main TPN supply.
Hope this helps 🤓.
Gland the armoured into the charger, hen screw it on the wall :)
good idea
Agreed, gives the flex that is needed
Yes Robin
I’m just an interested DIYer and can’t believe he’s not worked that out!
Those little holesaws are great if you cut some carpet underlay you can push it in and fill it with cutting oil and they will last longer and will self lube
You made installing a charge point very interesting, little did I know I'd not only be watching this but enjoying it!
Good old 5 in 1s, bloody life saver. Lovely job buddy
Couldn't you use the 3 core armoured as a 3 phase supply for a 3phase ev charger. Do you need a neutral as well ?
Why didn't you test the cable before connecting it - seems a waste of time connecting then disconnecting again..?
may of slipped his mind, as a highly seasoned tech i still make rookie mistakes occasionally.
Bet you are fun at parties 🤦🏼♂️
@@miketaylor1916 you go to some weird parties pal.
Crap Sparks.....
you could even ask why he use 3phase delta cable on a single phase install, failed to correctly identify conductors (70% coverage of crap or L1, N, E tape) just another shoddy job!
in germany you need a type B rcd for ev chargeing points and we have type A as standard in the houses
Depends on the manufacturers instructions and the specific model of charger. Several models have a 6mA DC protection integrated, there a type A RCD is sufficient. But some have not, for example the older Tesla charger don't have DC protection in it, so a type B RCD is mandatory.
Alternative to type B RCD is the type A+EV, but there's only one manufacturer for that (Doepke). It's a type A RCD with a 6mA DC protection.
I thought these charge points need a type A and B 6mA… ?
@@paulegan1476 Either type A or B, depending on the charger which type is required. The ones with integrated DC protection are more expensive than the ones without. But the price difference in the charger doesn't matter, because if you pick the cheaper charger you'll have to invest in the more expensive type B RCD.
And never install two RCDs in series, except the first one is a time-delayed and the tripping current at least three times higher than the one coming afterwards.
In Germany, three-phase 11 kW chargers are common. For 22 kW you need the approval of the electricity supplier, for 11 kW you only have to report the installation. That is then 3x 16 amps.
A disadvantage is when a car only wants to charge one phase 32 amps and is reduced to 16 amps. That would be only 3600 watts to an 11 kW three phase charging point.
As it's 3-core you don't need to terminate the armouring at the charger end, so could just use a nylon stuffing gland as space is tight.
Better to connect the armouring to earth both ends , there's no doubt about it , if the cpc in the cable is lost at source you still have the armouring as protection , your right you don't have to but should do for the reason I have just explained
@@Mainly_Electrical Not always a good idea were its a TNC-S incoming arrangement
@@jan-dr1xl why's that
@@Mainly_Electrical jesus
@@UberAlphaSirus Jesus ?
I had just watched the same delroy video and was shouting that he needs a flex stripper .
One step ahead as always
😁👍
If you refer to a reasonable height in a repetitive industrialized environment it would be called the " Golden zone" not too high , not too low. A comfortable distant for the average human. Midrift area. 👍👍
The idea of a power cable with a data cable built-in goes against everything I was taught about running CAT5 cables and not running them closely in parallel with high current power cables.
I'm guessing that these combined power and data cables have the appropriate shielding to mitigate this.
You have not kept up-to date matey, you need to check out some more RUclips vids and all will be revealed
You are allowed to mix class 1 and class 2 cabling if the insulation of all of them is rated for the highest voltage present.
@@jimgeelan5949 no youtube!!! jeeeez... the official books!!! damn this is why good craft men hard to have!
@@aaronmdjones in the netherlands. when there needs to be HIGH quality installations the signal cables are run next to high power but in a seperate cable tray. outside also in a seperate tube or flex or whatever. in theory is sounds fine to have high power next to signal cables but practice tells different! so i never never never do that
@@irshicosmos3233 if the cable manufacturer warrants its okay, that seems reason enough to trust them.
And let’s be fair, high power AC actually doesn’t interfere very much with gigabit Ethernet. The main problem is safety. You never want to run Ethernet cable alongside mains wiring that could have its insulation damaged. But these special cables presumably have solved this problem.
The armoured gland goes on the outside of the box. The glands IP rated so won't effect the first part of the enclosure. The cable then just goes through the inner gland to be connected
I would of be more interested in seeing EV charge point installs in house with no drives or front gardens. Cable grates and other methods of crossing the pavements. I know you charge a premium. But there's only so many premium installs i can watch.
I’d like to see that too
I'm not a sparky but why dont u put cable through outer hole put cable gland on then wall mount it will give u slack when doing the gland
It's good to see you back on the tools Jordan. I love your EV installs. You guys are the best.
Good comment about unbooted cable, damp can seep in through capillary action
Another awesome video Jordan !
Thanks!
before you try stripping those cables heat them up with a blow torch. It softens the plastic up and its real easy to cut then, like cutting butter!
It truly is beautiful. I swapped my Porsche Mobile Charger Connect (and mount) for it… although Andersen themselves are buggers for adding “extras” to the install. ;)
Question for you. Does the charging cable have to be fully unwound when you are charging your vehicle ,if you only need 2m of when parked up will the cable left inside the unit get warm.
So, Jordan doesn't even have to run a wire. Cory's digging holes and drilling mad angles in to sunken consumer units.... Pays to be the boss eh :)
Well the Boss is the Boss Cory has a great Boss and a great job!!
😁👍
@@Mattyboy88979 This is why I work for myself :)
Great install I have the same, . . . . and yes it is "The Most Beautiful Electric Vehicle Charging Point Ever"
Top tip, Wera Hex keys snap at exactly 0.7Nm so you just need to buy one per screw. But search for "Sealey STS103 Digital Torque Screwdriver" I have one it takes any standard hex bits.
You guys should think about showing the setting up of these chargers, I can't believe that you don't have a single issue with connection to them wi-fi some times or on the zappi getting the hub to connect. Maybe showing one in which when you get a problem with the connectivity to make them smart how you get around this would be good to see.
Would that EV cable with the Cat5 built in not drop a lot packets! Even shielded Cat5 running in a conduit shared with AC power is gonna give a lot of interference. But for just a control panel on a charger I guess having good transfer speeds isn't too vital so it'll work.
What if you used a swa gland in the outer part of the ev charger and then a stuffing gland in the inner ?
I guess that, as the compartment in between is not IP rated, then water could get down the outer gland from there?
You could have glanded the amour onto the outside then used a stuffing gland inside.
Where do you buy the special cable between the charger to the vehicle
It’s part of the charge point
yes, those little rounded allen wrenches do have a tendancy to snap off... Thank you for this agreable and useful video.
If you do a crossover episode with Delroy… that’s peak RUclips right there.
😁👍
Awesome video as always pal! Fancy chucking an ergo strip my way too? 🤣😂 seriously though that’s nice of you for Delroy! Another excellent spark.
Double gland far easier. SWA gland on incoming non IP rated side then IP rated plastic gland.
Damn, I wish you guys were in France because I find your videos super handy and am in need of a charging point from a modern electric company :)
Cheers guys
i have the Wera hex plus set the short and long one butt i have the normal set not the stainless you have and i am having no problem with it using it daily as a industrial electrician.
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this Jordan. The Anderson EV claims compliance with Regulation 722.411.4.1 (iii) and (iv) this is a single-phase charge point (iv) on a installation with a 3 phase supply (iii).
With (iii) the regulation allows either a reference pin or a device that references all 3 phases of the supply, and you must allow for phase loss.
As you are only connected to a single-phase it can’t comply with (iii) and according to Regulation you should not install equipment complying with (iv)
Oh yeah!! You pick up the cushty installs with cable installed ready to go and poor Corey gets angel drill hell !! Only messing lol 😂 keep up the good work and love the professionalism of you guys!!
Could you tell me what camera and mic you have?
Do you save all of your unused and waste copper, steel etc. from old/cut-off cables for scrap and recycling?
Pro Bike Tools do a very small torque wrench set , for working on cycles but will do the same job. From 2-20 I believe.
Hi Jordan, noticed recently that people are picking up a 32 amp supply from the consumer unit and fitting those commando sockets outside to charge there Tesla's at 7/8 kw instead of fitting a dedicated charger..is this ok/safe to charge this way?
Jordan, The A2 is a nice looking charger👌 I think you have missed a very important item 🤔 on that install. I didn't see you fit an A type RCD to the supply circuit in that video!!
It doesn’t need one as it has its own Type A RCD Built in
You can't get replacement blades for the Knipex but mines had heavy use for years and is still fine.
"A special here: they got a 3 phase DB"
Every continental European homeowner: Am I a joke to you?
Speaking as somebody with a buddy with a house in Portugal it's because you put the oven on, watch tv and turn on your laptop you overload one phase, it's extremely necessary. In the UK it's rare because most people don't need it.
Gland the SWA into the bottom of the charger, take the bedding through the stuffing gland then strip back to individual cores. And earth thevarmour at the other end as you did.
Hello, do you know that if you connect an 30kw single phase to those 22 KW three phase ev charger, same phase on the 3 wires, does the car charger at 22kw? Because they say 7kw single phase charger. Thanks
Your information is good and useful
When you mentioned at 2:25 'Convenient Height' is there any Wiring Regulation (722.55.101.5)? I am just asking. Thanks
I dont think its about 'convenient height', more about disability laws. You have to put things at 'convenient height' for the 0.001% of people that use wheelchairs, rather than the 99.999% of people that use legs.
Had my Ergostrip for a few years now, no bluntness as it only gets used on soft sheathed cables ie. flex and meter tails etc. Use the right tool for the job and they’ll last for many, many years. Stanley knife for stripping the outer sheath on SWA as the blades are dirt cheap
Loads of torque wrenches on the market with 1/4” square drive which you can then put a long or ball ended hex on
Jordan, I use a "Smith's" fishing hook sharpner for dull small blades on the job. It's shaped like a pen with a clip for the pocket. It has a 100mm long 6mm Diameter round diamond sharpner reducing to a point. It also has a flat edge as well, perfect for hardened but intricate blades. I'm sure you would find it useful. Great video mate with good info re water damage etc. Looking forward to the next one 🤗
Would the same 6mm cable size be ok to run to a detached garage for lights/sockets etc, & still be future proofed for an EV charger (have enough headroom)?
Could have done with some grey trunking to soften the effect of the black cable on the outside wall. Charger looks good but you do have to pay for it! Thanks for sharing, All the best
While I understand about SWA cable, would be be good to run it in plastic gray electrical conduit so it can be painted and blend more with the wall? Keep up with good work sir! 👍
Always better to duct cables so it's easier to change them in the future and adds another layer of mechanical protection should be black ducting
@@haldo691 I forget you have black ducting over there. In the US it’s all gray electrical pvc conduit which is our uv stabilized version. Then a lot of people paint it to match.
@@Chris_In_Texas yeah black for electric ,grey for telephone , blue for water , yellow for gas here
Amazon still sell those stanleys, picked one up recently along with the blade pack
Nice thanks
Great vid, fitted on of these last week. NICE.
The spec sheet says you need to be fitting an A type RCBO upstream or A type RCD + mcb or I’m reading it wrong?
Great news about your electric van, I’ve been waiting for mine for over 3 months.
Yes external RCD required - seems to be missing in this job.
We have the same issue
As in we are having our garden paved
But on a waiting list to have charger fitted
Should we lay a cable like they’ve done
Or would it be better to lay a conduit with a length of light rope as a pull through
.09 ohms... ?
Plus what process to get access to breaking the main seal?
Really nice video! Good looking charger and install
The EV ultra cable is sensible for data, but you could potentially just have data over powerline if there was no chance of a wireless signal? Wonder if anyone's considered integrating that in.
How did you resolve the PEN cut-off with only the 3 core SWA cable. Or have I missed something in previous vids. Great vides by the way. Keep them coming.
Great video. I have an Andersen A2 and a Tesla M3LR, but I cannot get it to work with the Andersen “Scheduled” charging feature of their Konnect+ app. When the scheduled charge kicks in the Tesla only sees 5amps and therefore says it will take hours and hours to charge. This doesn’t happen if I don’t use the scheduled charge feature and just plug the A2 into the Tesla, it then sees 32amps and charges normally. I reported it to Andersen, but unhelpful they said it is a Tesla issue. What is your view on the A2 and scheduled charging with a Tesla please,
Where is the RCD to protect the charger?
The Andersen A2 has its own built in Type A RCD with 6mA DC Protection and PEN fault protection just like the MyEnergi Zappi
Not when you read the spec sheet it says upstream protection by type A RCD ? We think they moved the type A function out like other manufacturers are doing.
@@efixx 🤦♂️ would be great if they told their installers stuff like that
Surely you would sussed something was a miss when testing the RCD function?
All the ones we have installed recently have passed the RCD tests fine
Hi Jordan, how does the charge point monitor load without the adaptive fuse fitted also?
Hey Jordan i have the same knipex ergo strip butt the left handed version butt No you Cant get replacement blades for it sadly.
Has the vw van ccs fast charge
Nice and clean keep them coming my one of my favorite channel. 💥
I really think the Anderson units are the best looking on the market, with a great choice of finish and colour options.
However, they don’t look to be very well thought through when it comes to installing them, which is a shame!
Yeah very true
You should always confirm phase rotation at three phase distribution boards which is part of the testing sequence
Why do you need to know that to install a single phase consumer on it?
@@JasperJanssen if you are connecting into a three phase distribution board it is good practice to confirm correct phase rotation at the distribution board
Jordan, great videos but I wish you would test the cable first...... Remember the scout hall video?
The owner would have been much better off installing PVC conduit that you can run cables through afterwards. More flexible solution.
Did the RCM test ok @ x5?
They now advise an RCBO be installed as the RCM doesn’t meet requirements…..
Why did you put the cable on the wall with cleats and not linian superclips?
Didn’t have any superclips that day unfortunately
Wera, Wiha and Armeg all do hex end blade inserts, depending on which torque driver you want to use, so yes, they're a thing.
And he already has the Wera torque driver. Doesn't go down to 0.7 Nm though.
Small world, I was wondering just this morning exactly what kind of infrastructure I could theasably pre install for a potential future e.v without too much commitment to actually getting one
Great install, could you have put the cable through the wall at the bottom and gone rear entry? Could you gland the SWA to the outer case of the charger and use a Wisla gland on the flexible sheath of the SWA at the IP section?
Those are the stainless keys they produce, stainless isn't a very strong metal compared to S2 tool steel. Get the regular hex plus ones if you want a strong set of tools from them, other than that their tools are great!
Definitely the most beautiful on the market at the moment !
never say it won’t be defeated tho 😃
Very true!
So in the UK you have cables which combine high volts and low volts in the same sheathing?
Sad you didn't install a 3 phase EVSE
yeah, a complete waste.. there is 3ph service in the house and they still get a 1ph charger..
Customer only fitted 3 core, so hasn’t got the extra phases
I hope you gave the client a credit for using his electric!
I would normally tell you the Wiha VDE torque set, but they only go down to 0.8 Nm instead of the required 0.7 Nm.
I was looking at the ultra ev cable and it comes with either cat 5e four twisted pair or with a screened pair. Do you have any preference? Do you think we would need cat 5e in the future or is this for lack of WiFi? Thanks, Stuart
Four pairs is more than one. So for future proofing, go with that one, especially if the cost differential is not that significant compared to what you’d pay someone to dig a new trench for more cable.
There’s a bunch of current charge points that can already handle up to three current transformers, on three separate pairs of wire. But then there are also usually solutions for the monitoring of those CTs to be done at the site and just transmit data, usually wirelessly, to the charge point.
So… I mean, this really is a “just in case” sort of outlay. Even the single pair is, really. But I have no idea what the effective extra cost is from just power to single pair to cat5. But my bet is that single pair or cat5 isn’t a huge difference in cost.
A secondary usage for these cables, which is not what they’re marketed for, but… outbuildings. The shed/pool house/granny annex at the back of the garden. Those are *immensely* helped by power+cat5 in one cable.
For Anderson: Upgrade the plastic box with side finishes in stone, steel, or wood. It would look much more finished.
I would have glanded the cable first cleated it then fit the carcharger at the length you have terminated saves faffing on trying to get the correct length also with the Anderson charger I would just use a stuffing gland at the charger side and gland the armouring at the DB end.
Who does your filming?