If the cable is already in the ground, fit the cable to the box and gland it, then mount the box to the wall. That way you have a little leeway for height.
Fixing the box to the wall before attaching the cables creates a potential back injury issue. We have a little camping chair where we connect the cables while sitting with the unit across our knees. Way less bending and awkward angles. Once cables attached, then attach to wall. This allows for any mistakes in cutting the cable too short.
Hey, Jordan, you ordering an electric VAN is simply a fantastic announcement ! Congratulations for your decision ! I'm looking forward, seeing the exciting moment when it's being delivered.
If it was me I would have taken the charger off of the wall, pulled the armoured further through, made it off then put the charger back off and finish the gland! I’m no electrition but always love to find an easier way of doing fiddly tasks like that😂
Next time you install an A2 and once you have stripped the cables and are happy with the fitment, pull the armoured cable back out of the A2 and mark out a template from the entry gland cut up to the 3 core ends. Any future A2 installs will be a lot quicker and easier to mark and cut each point using the same template from entry gland upwards before feeding into the A2. Bit of a minor faff the first time, but worth it.
We won't install those anymore since they removed installer discount and don't pay for call backs. Top job as always though. The internal type a RCD always failed tripping times to.
I wish you luck with the T6 LWB 82 mile range when empty van. A few of us tried them out and unless you're city based it's just not got the range, the E-Vivaro would have been a better choice imo. Lovely install but normally we'd dead test the customer supplied cable before fitting the charger - saving a potential wasted day if it has been damaged when buried.
@@artisanelectrics It comes with some nice perks, assisted breaking etc for parking in town but quite often finding a parking spot for a LWB can be a pain. So much so we won't use LWB vans for our city center, so hopefully your parking situation is far better than Little London by Sea.
That is a TPN service head. There is a secondary head and that is for E7 (hence the single control fuse and E7 meters). The main head is TPN then you have that secondary TPN head used for E7. There is TPN MCBs as well fed from the main head. I see this type of setup in this area quite a bit where the incomer is TPN and then a secondary head for E7 using a TPN head just to confuse you. Also as that secondary head is fused back at the substation I would be securing the link (split con or civil duct I cannot tell) that had the SWA hanging off it. Now if you open the top part of the main head you will find three BS88 fuses going off to that TPN panel. This should only be a DNO job though. But that will be the main TPN supply. Hope this helps 🤓.
Question for you. Does the charging cable have to be fully unwound when you are charging your vehicle ,if you only need 2m of when parked up will the cable left inside the unit get warm.
In Germany, three-phase 11 kW chargers are common. For 22 kW you need the approval of the electricity supplier, for 11 kW you only have to report the installation. That is then 3x 16 amps. A disadvantage is when a car only wants to charge one phase 32 amps and is reduced to 16 amps. That would be only 3600 watts to an 11 kW three phase charging point.
If you refer to a reasonable height in a repetitive industrialized environment it would be called the " Golden zone" not too high , not too low. A comfortable distant for the average human. Midrift area. 👍👍
Those little holesaws are great if you cut some carpet underlay you can push it in and fill it with cutting oil and they will last longer and will self lube
Better to connect the armouring to earth both ends , there's no doubt about it , if the cpc in the cable is lost at source you still have the armouring as protection , your right you don't have to but should do for the reason I have just explained
I would of be more interested in seeing EV charge point installs in house with no drives or front gardens. Cable grates and other methods of crossing the pavements. I know you charge a premium. But there's only so many premium installs i can watch.
That stuby ratchet is the best thing in the world. I was working on a rather unique bit of kit on one of the new Royal Navy aircraft carries, and we had to disassemble half the system to get one board out so we could reprogram it, an American chap came over from the OEM with one of those tiny ratchets and popped it out with 2 screws we could never have dreamed of accessing! Made 25 mins to reprogram into 10, most of which was flashing the EEPROM.
Speaking as somebody with a buddy with a house in Portugal it's because you put the oven on, watch tv and turn on your laptop you overload one phase, it's extremely necessary. In the UK it's rare because most people don't need it.
The idea of a power cable with a data cable built-in goes against everything I was taught about running CAT5 cables and not running them closely in parallel with high current power cables. I'm guessing that these combined power and data cables have the appropriate shielding to mitigate this.
@@aaronmdjones in the netherlands. when there needs to be HIGH quality installations the signal cables are run next to high power but in a seperate cable tray. outside also in a seperate tube or flex or whatever. in theory is sounds fine to have high power next to signal cables but practice tells different! so i never never never do that
@@irshicosmos3233 if the cable manufacturer warrants its okay, that seems reason enough to trust them. And let’s be fair, high power AC actually doesn’t interfere very much with gigabit Ethernet. The main problem is safety. You never want to run Ethernet cable alongside mains wiring that could have its insulation damaged. But these special cables presumably have solved this problem.
Would that EV cable with the Cat5 built in not drop a lot packets! Even shielded Cat5 running in a conduit shared with AC power is gonna give a lot of interference. But for just a control panel on a charger I guess having good transfer speeds isn't too vital so it'll work.
Depends on the manufacturers instructions and the specific model of charger. Several models have a 6mA DC protection integrated, there a type A RCD is sufficient. But some have not, for example the older Tesla charger don't have DC protection in it, so a type B RCD is mandatory. Alternative to type B RCD is the type A+EV, but there's only one manufacturer for that (Doepke). It's a type A RCD with a 6mA DC protection.
@@paulegan1476 Either type A or B, depending on the charger which type is required. The ones with integrated DC protection are more expensive than the ones without. But the price difference in the charger doesn't matter, because if you pick the cheaper charger you'll have to invest in the more expensive type B RCD. And never install two RCDs in series, except the first one is a time-delayed and the tripping current at least three times higher than the one coming afterwards.
The armoured gland goes on the outside of the box. The glands IP rated so won't effect the first part of the enclosure. The cable then just goes through the inner gland to be connected
I dont think its about 'convenient height', more about disability laws. You have to put things at 'convenient height' for the 0.001% of people that use wheelchairs, rather than the 99.999% of people that use legs.
Hi Jordan, noticed recently that people are picking up a 32 amp supply from the consumer unit and fitting those commando sockets outside to charge there Tesla's at 7/8 kw instead of fitting a dedicated charger..is this ok/safe to charge this way?
Damn, I wish you guys were in France because I find your videos super handy and am in need of a charging point from a modern electric company :) Cheers guys
Great vid, fitted on of these last week. NICE. The spec sheet says you need to be fitting an A type RCBO upstream or A type RCD + mcb or I’m reading it wrong? Great news about your electric van, I’ve been waiting for mine for over 3 months.
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this Jordan. The Anderson EV claims compliance with Regulation 722.411.4.1 (iii) and (iv) this is a single-phase charge point (iv) on a installation with a 3 phase supply (iii). With (iii) the regulation allows either a reference pin or a device that references all 3 phases of the supply, and you must allow for phase loss. As you are only connected to a single-phase it can’t comply with (iii) and according to Regulation you should not install equipment complying with (iv)
Crap Sparks..... you could even ask why he use 3phase delta cable on a single phase install, failed to correctly identify conductors (70% coverage of crap or L1, N, E tape) just another shoddy job!
How did you resolve the PEN cut-off with only the 3 core SWA cable. Or have I missed something in previous vids. Great vides by the way. Keep them coming.
We have the same issue As in we are having our garden paved But on a waiting list to have charger fitted Should we lay a cable like they’ve done Or would it be better to lay a conduit with a length of light rope as a pull through
Jordan, I use a "Smith's" fishing hook sharpner for dull small blades on the job. It's shaped like a pen with a clip for the pocket. It has a 100mm long 6mm Diameter round diamond sharpner reducing to a point. It also has a flat edge as well, perfect for hardened but intricate blades. I'm sure you would find it useful. Great video mate with good info re water damage etc. Looking forward to the next one 🤗
It truly is beautiful. I swapped my Porsche Mobile Charger Connect (and mount) for it… although Andersen themselves are buggers for adding “extras” to the install. ;)
Would the same 6mm cable size be ok to run to a detached garage for lights/sockets etc, & still be future proofed for an EV charger (have enough headroom)?
While I understand about SWA cable, would be be good to run it in plastic gray electrical conduit so it can be painted and blend more with the wall? Keep up with good work sir! 👍
@@haldo691 I forget you have black ducting over there. In the US it’s all gray electrical pvc conduit which is our uv stabilized version. Then a lot of people paint it to match.
Jordan, The A2 is a nice looking charger👌 I think you have missed a very important item 🤔 on that install. I didn't see you fit an A type RCD to the supply circuit in that video!!
You guys should think about showing the setting up of these chargers, I can't believe that you don't have a single issue with connection to them wi-fi some times or on the zappi getting the hub to connect. Maybe showing one in which when you get a problem with the connectivity to make them smart how you get around this would be good to see.
Great video. I have an Andersen A2 and a Tesla M3LR, but I cannot get it to work with the Andersen “Scheduled” charging feature of their Konnect+ app. When the scheduled charge kicks in the Tesla only sees 5amps and therefore says it will take hours and hours to charge. This doesn’t happen if I don’t use the scheduled charge feature and just plug the A2 into the Tesla, it then sees 32amps and charges normally. I reported it to Andersen, but unhelpful they said it is a Tesla issue. What is your view on the A2 and scheduled charging with a Tesla please,
I was looking at the ultra ev cable and it comes with either cat 5e four twisted pair or with a screened pair. Do you have any preference? Do you think we would need cat 5e in the future or is this for lack of WiFi? Thanks, Stuart
Four pairs is more than one. So for future proofing, go with that one, especially if the cost differential is not that significant compared to what you’d pay someone to dig a new trench for more cable. There’s a bunch of current charge points that can already handle up to three current transformers, on three separate pairs of wire. But then there are also usually solutions for the monitoring of those CTs to be done at the site and just transmit data, usually wirelessly, to the charge point. So… I mean, this really is a “just in case” sort of outlay. Even the single pair is, really. But I have no idea what the effective extra cost is from just power to single pair to cat5. But my bet is that single pair or cat5 isn’t a huge difference in cost. A secondary usage for these cables, which is not what they’re marketed for, but… outbuildings. The shed/pool house/granny annex at the back of the garden. Those are *immensely* helped by power+cat5 in one cable.
Oh yeah!! You pick up the cushty installs with cable installed ready to go and poor Corey gets angel drill hell !! Only messing lol 😂 keep up the good work and love the professionalism of you guys!!
Top tip, Wera Hex keys snap at exactly 0.7Nm so you just need to buy one per screw. But search for "Sealey STS103 Digital Torque Screwdriver" I have one it takes any standard hex bits.
I really think the Anderson units are the best looking on the market, with a great choice of finish and colour options. However, they don’t look to be very well thought through when it comes to installing them, which is a shame!
The EV ultra cable is sensible for data, but you could potentially just have data over powerline if there was no chance of a wireless signal? Wonder if anyone's considered integrating that in.
i have the Wera hex plus set the short and long one butt i have the normal set not the stainless you have and i am having no problem with it using it daily as a industrial electrician.
Small world, I was wondering just this morning exactly what kind of infrastructure I could theasably pre install for a potential future e.v without too much commitment to actually getting one
Great install, could you have put the cable through the wall at the bottom and gone rear entry? Could you gland the SWA to the outer case of the charger and use a Wisla gland on the flexible sheath of the SWA at the IP section?
Hello, do you know that if you connect an 30kw single phase to those 22 KW three phase ev charger, same phase on the 3 wires, does the car charger at 22kw? Because they say 7kw single phase charger. Thanks
I didn't have any luck with those Milwaukee markers. First time I used it, it clogged and quit working entirely, went back to sharpies. The advantage of sharpies is they're cheap. Keep a tub in the van lol. And for the first few mins of this video I thought that was the thinnest charge point ever LMAO
Had my Ergostrip for a few years now, no bluntness as it only gets used on soft sheathed cables ie. flex and meter tails etc. Use the right tool for the job and they’ll last for many, many years. Stanley knife for stripping the outer sheath on SWA as the blades are dirt cheap Loads of torque wrenches on the market with 1/4” square drive which you can then put a long or ball ended hex on
4:05 Not many cars accepting more than 11kW A.C. charge but they love D.C. unless the owner will share the charger between 2-3 cars in the same time, but I am sure they will in 10 years time.
Could have done with some grey trunking to soften the effect of the black cable on the outside wall. Charger looks good but you do have to pay for it! Thanks for sharing, All the best
Not sure if you used them here or not Jordan, but I've seen Cory use them, which brand of knock in metal clips do you use to fix the SWA to the wall..? Are they D-Line or another brand?
Request a quote from Artisan Electrics here - app.openquote.net/company/artisanelectrics
If the cable is already in the ground, fit the cable to the box and gland it, then mount the box to the wall. That way you have a little leeway for height.
Exactly what I was thinking it’s about saving time and making things easy in this game and of course doing it safely
Was going to say the same thing
Fixing the box to the wall before attaching the cables creates a potential back injury issue. We have a little camping chair where we connect the cables while sitting with the unit across our knees. Way less bending and awkward angles. Once cables attached, then attach to wall. This allows for any mistakes in cutting the cable too short.
@@achmadosman9807 yea it’s so much faster to do it on the floor too
Hey, Jordan, you ordering an electric VAN is simply a fantastic announcement ! Congratulations for your decision ! I'm looking forward, seeing the exciting moment when it's being delivered.
From an IT engineer, those KNIPEX strippers are a lifesaver in taking off the sheath on CAT5e. Thank you for the recommendation.
Thanks! Glad you like them
That’s it Jordan help another brother out 👍 delroy’s a good bloke
Totally
Can't wait for a tour of your new e-Transporter!!
Thanks!
Very kind of you to shout me out Jordan. I'll definitely be using the strippers when I get the chance
Bet youve said that before in your younger days del mate 😉😂
@@dans5101 :') :')
If it was me I would have taken the charger off of the wall, pulled the armoured further through, made it off then put the charger back off and finish the gland!
I’m no electrition but always love to find an easier way of doing fiddly tasks like that😂
Spot on bud!
Next time you install an A2 and once you have stripped the cables and are happy with the fitment, pull the armoured cable back out of the A2 and mark out a template from the entry gland cut up to the 3 core ends. Any future A2 installs will be a lot quicker and easier to mark and cut each point using the same template from entry gland upwards before feeding into the A2. Bit of a minor faff the first time, but worth it.
Australian sparky here, really enjoy your channels vids, interesting to see electrical in another country :)!!
🧰🛠️ Tools Of The Day 👇
Wera Bit Check Set: amzn.to/3AoDJCt
Knipex Ergostrip: amzn.to/36dX4sd
get an AccuSharp it a knife and Blade sharpener it like 10 usd on amazon you can use it on any blade so your tools will last for years.
The bit check sets are amazing. Great for fiddly fasteners in tight spots.
Gland the armoured into the charger, hen screw it on the wall :)
good idea
Agreed, gives the flex that is needed
Yes Robin
I’m just an interested DIYer and can’t believe he’s not worked that out!
You made installing a charge point very interesting, little did I know I'd not only be watching this but enjoying it!
We won't install those anymore since they removed installer discount and don't pay for call backs. Top job as always though. The internal type a RCD always failed tripping times to.
Couldn't you use the 3 core armoured as a 3 phase supply for a 3phase ev charger. Do you need a neutral as well ?
It's good to see you back on the tools Jordan. I love your EV installs. You guys are the best.
I wish you luck with the T6 LWB 82 mile range when empty van. A few of us tried them out and unless you're city based it's just not got the range, the E-Vivaro would have been a better choice imo. Lovely install but normally we'd dead test the customer supplied cable before fitting the charger - saving a potential wasted day if it has been damaged when buried.
Good point! Yeah we’re gonna just use it got local jobs, I will still use the Tesla for the long journeys
@@artisanelectrics It comes with some nice perks, assisted breaking etc for parking in town but quite often finding a parking spot for a LWB can be a pain. So much so we won't use LWB vans for our city center, so hopefully your parking situation is far better than Little London by Sea.
I always put the gland onto whatever you are glanding into first. Like what you did back at the DB
That is a TPN service head. There is a secondary head and that is for E7 (hence the single control fuse and E7 meters). The main head is TPN then you have that secondary TPN head used for E7. There is TPN MCBs as well fed from the main head. I see this type of setup in this area quite a bit where the incomer is TPN and then a secondary head for E7 using a TPN head just to confuse you. Also as that secondary head is fused back at the substation I would be securing the link (split con or civil duct I cannot tell) that had the SWA hanging off it.
Now if you open the top part of the main head you will find three BS88 fuses going off to that TPN panel. This should only be a DNO job though. But that will be the main TPN supply.
Hope this helps 🤓.
Another awesome video Jordan !
Thanks!
Good old 5 in 1s, bloody life saver. Lovely job buddy
Question for you. Does the charging cable have to be fully unwound when you are charging your vehicle ,if you only need 2m of when parked up will the cable left inside the unit get warm.
In Germany, three-phase 11 kW chargers are common. For 22 kW you need the approval of the electricity supplier, for 11 kW you only have to report the installation. That is then 3x 16 amps.
A disadvantage is when a car only wants to charge one phase 32 amps and is reduced to 16 amps. That would be only 3600 watts to an 11 kW three phase charging point.
If you refer to a reasonable height in a repetitive industrialized environment it would be called the " Golden zone" not too high , not too low. A comfortable distant for the average human. Midrift area. 👍👍
Subscribe to our RUclips Channel for more great electrical content: ruclips.net/user/artisanelectricsuk
Those little holesaws are great if you cut some carpet underlay you can push it in and fill it with cutting oil and they will last longer and will self lube
As it's 3-core you don't need to terminate the armouring at the charger end, so could just use a nylon stuffing gland as space is tight.
Better to connect the armouring to earth both ends , there's no doubt about it , if the cpc in the cable is lost at source you still have the armouring as protection , your right you don't have to but should do for the reason I have just explained
@@Mainly_Electrical Not always a good idea were its a TNC-S incoming arrangement
@@jan-dr1xl why's that
@@Mainly_Electrical jesus
@@UberAlphaSirus Jesus ?
So, Jordan doesn't even have to run a wire. Cory's digging holes and drilling mad angles in to sunken consumer units.... Pays to be the boss eh :)
Well the Boss is the Boss Cory has a great Boss and a great job!!
😁👍
@@Mattyboy88979 This is why I work for myself :)
I would of be more interested in seeing EV charge point installs in house with no drives or front gardens. Cable grates and other methods of crossing the pavements. I know you charge a premium. But there's only so many premium installs i can watch.
I’d like to see that too
That stuby ratchet is the best thing in the world. I was working on a rather unique bit of kit on one of the new Royal Navy aircraft carries, and we had to disassemble half the system to get one board out so we could reprogram it, an American chap came over from the OEM with one of those tiny ratchets and popped it out with 2 screws we could never have dreamed of accessing! Made 25 mins to reprogram into 10, most of which was flashing the EEPROM.
Cool thanks for sharing
Top notch video guys! You always provide the best content every episode.
Thanks so much!
I'm not a sparky but why dont u put cable through outer hole put cable gland on then wall mount it will give u slack when doing the gland
"A special here: they got a 3 phase DB"
Every continental European homeowner: Am I a joke to you?
Speaking as somebody with a buddy with a house in Portugal it's because you put the oven on, watch tv and turn on your laptop you overload one phase, it's extremely necessary. In the UK it's rare because most people don't need it.
The idea of a power cable with a data cable built-in goes against everything I was taught about running CAT5 cables and not running them closely in parallel with high current power cables.
I'm guessing that these combined power and data cables have the appropriate shielding to mitigate this.
You have not kept up-to date matey, you need to check out some more RUclips vids and all will be revealed
You are allowed to mix class 1 and class 2 cabling if the insulation of all of them is rated for the highest voltage present.
@@jimgeelan5949 no youtube!!! jeeeez... the official books!!! damn this is why good craft men hard to have!
@@aaronmdjones in the netherlands. when there needs to be HIGH quality installations the signal cables are run next to high power but in a seperate cable tray. outside also in a seperate tube or flex or whatever. in theory is sounds fine to have high power next to signal cables but practice tells different! so i never never never do that
@@irshicosmos3233 if the cable manufacturer warrants its okay, that seems reason enough to trust them.
And let’s be fair, high power AC actually doesn’t interfere very much with gigabit Ethernet. The main problem is safety. You never want to run Ethernet cable alongside mains wiring that could have its insulation damaged. But these special cables presumably have solved this problem.
Do you save all of your unused and waste copper, steel etc. from old/cut-off cables for scrap and recycling?
Would that EV cable with the Cat5 built in not drop a lot packets! Even shielded Cat5 running in a conduit shared with AC power is gonna give a lot of interference. But for just a control panel on a charger I guess having good transfer speeds isn't too vital so it'll work.
in germany you need a type B rcd for ev chargeing points and we have type A as standard in the houses
Depends on the manufacturers instructions and the specific model of charger. Several models have a 6mA DC protection integrated, there a type A RCD is sufficient. But some have not, for example the older Tesla charger don't have DC protection in it, so a type B RCD is mandatory.
Alternative to type B RCD is the type A+EV, but there's only one manufacturer for that (Doepke). It's a type A RCD with a 6mA DC protection.
I thought these charge points need a type A and B 6mA… ?
@@paulegan1476 Either type A or B, depending on the charger which type is required. The ones with integrated DC protection are more expensive than the ones without. But the price difference in the charger doesn't matter, because if you pick the cheaper charger you'll have to invest in the more expensive type B RCD.
And never install two RCDs in series, except the first one is a time-delayed and the tripping current at least three times higher than the one coming afterwards.
Nice and clean keep them coming my one of my favorite channel. 💥
The armoured gland goes on the outside of the box. The glands IP rated so won't effect the first part of the enclosure. The cable then just goes through the inner gland to be connected
When you mentioned at 2:25 'Convenient Height' is there any Wiring Regulation (722.55.101.5)? I am just asking. Thanks
I dont think its about 'convenient height', more about disability laws. You have to put things at 'convenient height' for the 0.001% of people that use wheelchairs, rather than the 99.999% of people that use legs.
If you do a crossover episode with Delroy… that’s peak RUclips right there.
😁👍
Hi Jordan, noticed recently that people are picking up a 32 amp supply from the consumer unit and fitting those commando sockets outside to charge there Tesla's at 7/8 kw instead of fitting a dedicated charger..is this ok/safe to charge this way?
Great install I have the same, . . . . and yes it is "The Most Beautiful Electric Vehicle Charging Point Ever"
Yes, it is the most beautiful electric charger on the market for sure. I have one and it's brilliant. Andersen the company are brilliant.
I had just watched the same delroy video and was shouting that he needs a flex stripper .
One step ahead as always
😁👍
Damn, I wish you guys were in France because I find your videos super handy and am in need of a charging point from a modern electric company :)
Cheers guys
Awesome video as always pal! Fancy chucking an ergo strip my way too? 🤣😂 seriously though that’s nice of you for Delroy! Another excellent spark.
Great vid, fitted on of these last week. NICE.
The spec sheet says you need to be fitting an A type RCBO upstream or A type RCD + mcb or I’m reading it wrong?
Great news about your electric van, I’ve been waiting for mine for over 3 months.
Yes external RCD required - seems to be missing in this job.
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on this Jordan. The Anderson EV claims compliance with Regulation 722.411.4.1 (iii) and (iv) this is a single-phase charge point (iv) on a installation with a 3 phase supply (iii).
With (iii) the regulation allows either a reference pin or a device that references all 3 phases of the supply, and you must allow for phase loss.
As you are only connected to a single-phase it can’t comply with (iii) and according to Regulation you should not install equipment complying with (iv)
Your information is good and useful
Why didn't you test the cable before connecting it - seems a waste of time connecting then disconnecting again..?
may of slipped his mind, as a highly seasoned tech i still make rookie mistakes occasionally.
Bet you are fun at parties 🤦🏼♂️
@@miketaylor1916 you go to some weird parties pal.
Crap Sparks.....
you could even ask why he use 3phase delta cable on a single phase install, failed to correctly identify conductors (70% coverage of crap or L1, N, E tape) just another shoddy job!
How did you resolve the PEN cut-off with only the 3 core SWA cable. Or have I missed something in previous vids. Great vides by the way. Keep them coming.
We have the same issue
As in we are having our garden paved
But on a waiting list to have charger fitted
Should we lay a cable like they’ve done
Or would it be better to lay a conduit with a length of light rope as a pull through
Really nice video! Good looking charger and install
Everyone searching delroy the spark and only finding eastway electrical 😂😂
sneaky move delroy! 😁
Eastway is good old delroy
Jordan, I use a "Smith's" fishing hook sharpner for dull small blades on the job. It's shaped like a pen with a clip for the pocket. It has a 100mm long 6mm Diameter round diamond sharpner reducing to a point. It also has a flat edge as well, perfect for hardened but intricate blades. I'm sure you would find it useful. Great video mate with good info re water damage etc. Looking forward to the next one 🤗
It truly is beautiful. I swapped my Porsche Mobile Charger Connect (and mount) for it… although Andersen themselves are buggers for adding “extras” to the install. ;)
Would the same 6mm cable size be ok to run to a detached garage for lights/sockets etc, & still be future proofed for an EV charger (have enough headroom)?
What if you used a swa gland in the outer part of the ev charger and then a stuffing gland in the inner ?
I guess that, as the compartment in between is not IP rated, then water could get down the outer gland from there?
While I understand about SWA cable, would be be good to run it in plastic gray electrical conduit so it can be painted and blend more with the wall? Keep up with good work sir! 👍
Always better to duct cables so it's easier to change them in the future and adds another layer of mechanical protection should be black ducting
@@haldo691 I forget you have black ducting over there. In the US it’s all gray electrical pvc conduit which is our uv stabilized version. Then a lot of people paint it to match.
@@Chris_In_Texas yeah black for electric ,grey for telephone , blue for water , yellow for gas here
before you try stripping those cables heat them up with a blow torch. It softens the plastic up and its real easy to cut then, like cutting butter!
Jordan, The A2 is a nice looking charger👌 I think you have missed a very important item 🤔 on that install. I didn't see you fit an A type RCD to the supply circuit in that video!!
It doesn’t need one as it has its own Type A RCD Built in
You guys should think about showing the setting up of these chargers, I can't believe that you don't have a single issue with connection to them wi-fi some times or on the zappi getting the hub to connect. Maybe showing one in which when you get a problem with the connectivity to make them smart how you get around this would be good to see.
Good comment about unbooted cable, damp can seep in through capillary action
Great video. I have an Andersen A2 and a Tesla M3LR, but I cannot get it to work with the Andersen “Scheduled” charging feature of their Konnect+ app. When the scheduled charge kicks in the Tesla only sees 5amps and therefore says it will take hours and hours to charge. This doesn’t happen if I don’t use the scheduled charge feature and just plug the A2 into the Tesla, it then sees 32amps and charges normally. I reported it to Andersen, but unhelpful they said it is a Tesla issue. What is your view on the A2 and scheduled charging with a Tesla please,
Could you tell me what camera and mic you have?
I was looking at the ultra ev cable and it comes with either cat 5e four twisted pair or with a screened pair. Do you have any preference? Do you think we would need cat 5e in the future or is this for lack of WiFi? Thanks, Stuart
Four pairs is more than one. So for future proofing, go with that one, especially if the cost differential is not that significant compared to what you’d pay someone to dig a new trench for more cable.
There’s a bunch of current charge points that can already handle up to three current transformers, on three separate pairs of wire. But then there are also usually solutions for the monitoring of those CTs to be done at the site and just transmit data, usually wirelessly, to the charge point.
So… I mean, this really is a “just in case” sort of outlay. Even the single pair is, really. But I have no idea what the effective extra cost is from just power to single pair to cat5. But my bet is that single pair or cat5 isn’t a huge difference in cost.
A secondary usage for these cables, which is not what they’re marketed for, but… outbuildings. The shed/pool house/granny annex at the back of the garden. Those are *immensely* helped by power+cat5 in one cable.
Jordan, great videos but I wish you would test the cable first...... Remember the scout hall video?
The owner would have been much better off installing PVC conduit that you can run cables through afterwards. More flexible solution.
Oh yeah!! You pick up the cushty installs with cable installed ready to go and poor Corey gets angel drill hell !! Only messing lol 😂 keep up the good work and love the professionalism of you guys!!
yes, those little rounded allen wrenches do have a tendancy to snap off... Thank you for this agreable and useful video.
.09 ohms... ?
Plus what process to get access to breaking the main seal?
Top tip, Wera Hex keys snap at exactly 0.7Nm so you just need to buy one per screw. But search for "Sealey STS103 Digital Torque Screwdriver" I have one it takes any standard hex bits.
I really think the Anderson units are the best looking on the market, with a great choice of finish and colour options.
However, they don’t look to be very well thought through when it comes to installing them, which is a shame!
Yeah very true
The EV ultra cable is sensible for data, but you could potentially just have data over powerline if there was no chance of a wireless signal? Wonder if anyone's considered integrating that in.
Pro Bike Tools do a very small torque wrench set , for working on cycles but will do the same job. From 2-20 I believe.
Did the RCM test ok @ x5?
They now advise an RCBO be installed as the RCM doesn’t meet requirements…..
So in the UK you have cables which combine high volts and low volts in the same sheathing?
Hi Jordan, how does the charge point monitor load without the adaptive fuse fitted also?
You can't get replacement blades for the Knipex but mines had heavy use for years and is still fine.
i have the Wera hex plus set the short and long one butt i have the normal set not the stainless you have and i am having no problem with it using it daily as a industrial electrician.
Small world, I was wondering just this morning exactly what kind of infrastructure I could theasably pre install for a potential future e.v without too much commitment to actually getting one
Double gland far easier. SWA gland on incoming non IP rated side then IP rated plastic gland.
Great install, could you have put the cable through the wall at the bottom and gone rear entry? Could you gland the SWA to the outer case of the charger and use a Wisla gland on the flexible sheath of the SWA at the IP section?
Was that just a type b MCB you installed? Doesn't any cable run underground need to be protected by an RCD?
Where do you buy the special cable between the charger to the vehicle
It’s part of the charge point
Hello, do you know that if you connect an 30kw single phase to those 22 KW three phase ev charger, same phase on the 3 wires, does the car charger at 22kw? Because they say 7kw single phase charger. Thanks
Jordan what tester did you use to test the actual EV charger (one which simulates the eV)?
I didn't have any luck with those Milwaukee markers. First time I used it, it clogged and quit working entirely, went back to sharpies. The advantage of sharpies is they're cheap. Keep a tub in the van lol. And for the first few mins of this video I thought that was the thinnest charge point ever LMAO
"I thought that was the thinnest charge point ever" - exactly!
Had my Ergostrip for a few years now, no bluntness as it only gets used on soft sheathed cables ie. flex and meter tails etc. Use the right tool for the job and they’ll last for many, many years. Stanley knife for stripping the outer sheath on SWA as the blades are dirt cheap
Loads of torque wrenches on the market with 1/4” square drive which you can then put a long or ball ended hex on
I hope you gave the client a credit for using his electric!
4:05 Not many cars accepting more than 11kW A.C. charge but they love D.C. unless the owner will share the charger between 2-3 cars in the same time, but I am sure they will in 10 years time.
Could have done with some grey trunking to soften the effect of the black cable on the outside wall. Charger looks good but you do have to pay for it! Thanks for sharing, All the best
When do you get your new VW E Transporter?
If you taken delivery can you do a review?
It’s coming end of the month! I will definitely do a review video
Not sure if you used them here or not Jordan, but I've seen Cory use them, which brand of knock in metal clips do you use to fix the SWA to the wall..? Are they D-Line or another brand?
great vid they are my least favourite charger to fit way 2 many screws out of interest did the internal RCD pass?
11:11 John's going to be asking for royalties 😆😆😆
I wonder Why dont you guys cover the cable on the brick wall with stainless steel cover? From avoiding damage. Like cars bumbing to it etc.
Hey Jordan i have the same knipex ergo strip butt the left handed version butt No you Cant get replacement blades for it sadly.
Bloody hell, Jordan on the tools. You alright mate 😂😂
🤣🤣🤣
Well we can’t have Jordan getting rusty like old tools now 🤣
Sad you didn't install a 3 phase EVSE
yeah, a complete waste.. there is 3ph service in the house and they still get a 1ph charger..
Customer only fitted 3 core, so hasn’t got the extra phases