Don't usually post up on comments but I have to give you credit and praise, you saved me a call out charge and possible repair from a rip off repairer. Wicked advice and explanation for each part. Thank you very much for your video 👌🏿🙌🏿👊🏿
Thank you so much for this video. I have a Haier washer dryer that was under warranty and this happened. The engineer came and fixed it within 5min. I called today and they would charge me for 145£ to do this. I opened up the top, pushed down the safety pin and the dryer was working just fine. You are a legend and I wish more videos like yours were published
Thanks Jason! about 6 months ago my washer dryer stopped heating. Had to pay 100 euros and wait almost 2 weeks for someone to come fix it in literally 10 seconds. Today it happened again. Thanks to you it took me 5 minutes to fix and its working again.
Thanks a lot!! My washer/dryer machine wasn't heating the dryer air. The trick to push those little buttons worked perfectly. I was going to buy a new machine, so you have saved a lot of money for me. Great video!
Thanks, just got home from a days plastering, absolutely knackered. went to get my bed sheets out the machine and they were still wet. You have just save my washing machine from a good chucking in the sea. You're a legend.
Had to watch a few nonsense videos before I found yours but you’ve sorted my issue. Wife has been told off for ending dry cycles too soon. Thanks for a great video which was well explained!
Excellent video. I used this information to fix the drying side of my washer dryer. I got caught by the door lock but managed to work out it out by myself in the end. Thanks for taking the time to share you expertise.
I've thought it didn't work because of lint blockage and I've cleaned out the fan and it's intake, but wondered why the condenser wasn't heating up. My model had a button only on one of the breakers, but this solved my issue. 10/10 video
Thanks mate. Ours stopped producing heat. Did exactly this and one of the 'breakers' had tripped. All working good again. Literally a 5 min job. 3 screws at the back to take the lid off. Many thanks 😊
I had a issue that fan was stuck and after unstucking heater was not working. I didn’t know about COT reset. After pressing the reset button everything works fine now. Thank you!!!!
Jason, you just helped me save a couple of EUR! Thank you! Caution for anyone trying the screwdriver into the lock trick - on my Candy Rapido washer/dryer, after doing it, I had to dismount the lock, pry it open and really force the lock back open. Maybe there are better ways, but this is the road I took, and it was a scary one ;) Anyway, again, thank you! Money well saved!
Yes I regret putting the part about the door lock without explaining how to undo it - To unlock again, when you switch off, wait a few mins and gently press screwdriver back in to disengage. Overall it’s been a good video for people however a few have had an issue trying the door lock. I don’t know how to video edit to change this 😆
You are an absolute legend, thanks so much. I live on a ship and it is a mission to replace as its heavy and cant get parts or a new 220v 50hz washer dryer. I simply pressed the reset (on the TOC) like you show and now its working great. You have a paypal or patreon so I can give you a donation. Also will do a video link to your channel on my channel. Thanks again. Out.
carry on sailing Thanks for appreciating it. I just made the videos to help really because a lot of the stuff is easy fixes, not really growing the channel :-). Glad it’s up and running man! Happy sailing! :D
Hi jason great video we opened it up all elements test fine on meter, fan spins freely. Did notice though the red trip wire was black and the box was slightly scorched clipped it and reattached but it keeps tripping out still every couple of uses...
There is a couple of reasons, in the video at the start I was testing the air flow, part of the reason for that procedure is because there is also a condenser at the back of most models, The condenser is where the water values inject water to condense the steam, it’s usually a long plastic container shape, if this is blocked with fluff then it can cause it to trip. The other reason is a faulty toc which can occur. The only things that can cause the toc to trip is a faulty one, or blocked air flow. The heater is static and just heats until the thermostat tells it to stop (however faulty thermostats almost always fail the opposite where they won’t direct power) - the fan if turning won’t be at fault either, the fan blades can gather a lot of fluff between them allowing it to turn but not direct air, in which case you can open up the chamber and de-lint it, another reason is the condenser as I mentioned and lastly is the washer being too full. The reason dryers have split capacities like 8Kg/5kg is because the drying part needs space in the drum to let air circulate and leave towards the condenser. However I’m assuming if it’s a new problem that’s caused blackening on electrical wires then it’s not an overloading problem. If I was attending as a job I would check air flow and then clean where necessary (however the condensers can be a pain, using a metal coat hanger bent into shape and a bottle brush saves time) - then if the air flow tested good I would replace the toc (is usually a few pounds)
Never bothered fixing mine in all the years it has been broken as I hardly ever used it anyway, but now my CH has packed in it's a bitch getting clothes dried indoors until I get a new boiler. Got the machine pulled out and ready to disassemble and check out your guidance (was DISGUSTING underneath!). Even if I can't fix it, thanks very much for posting this.
@@jasonhounsell3297 Sorry Jason, didn't expect a reply and it's been a long week so I fell asleep for a bit there rather than tackle it in a crabbit mood. It's a Zanussi Timeline 1600 washer-dryer, 16 years old and still going strong except the dryer tumbles etc. but the air is cold, doesn't heat up. I'm a server engineer and used to pulling those beasts apart, so I figure what could go wrong? Lol! Nothing to lose by trying.
@@Irene-gq4jr The Zanussi ones operate the same way as the one in this video as most do, however the heaters are a little more tricky to change if needed - let me know how you get in anyway, drying side faults are usually fairly straight forward and simple to fix :-) Let me know :-)
Thank you for this vid. My dryer just stopped at the weekend, a few seconds into th dry and the display quickly flashed "err" then turned off. Didn't matter theb what function I selected the same err. Left it about 30 mins, went to try it again and it all seemed to work. I put some items in, clicked try, 30 mins later noticed it wasn't getting hot. A tested a quick was off a towel at 60C and that deffo got hot, so I thought it's weird that it heats water but not air for dying. Just opened the top, there are rhe two thermostats, one of them clicked ever so slightly when pressed. Tested dryers with the lid off and sure enough it's getting hot. I presume then n the chamber are two seperate chambers one for water and one for air which is why their are two thermostats?
Hey, thanks for the video! It seems that I have exact same 'heater with fan' element in my washer dryer, could you tell me how do i get it open for cleaning? The fan spins with lots of resistance and there is loads of lint inside, and the metal casing seems glued/pressed together. Is it even serviceable?
Hey thanks for the guide! but what is that plastic bit on top of the fan? the little white plastic wheel looking thing. mine fell off and i'm not sure if it will make a big difference in performance. not sure if you'll still reply to a 4 year old video, but hope you will!
Thanks Jason that is really helpful. Our problem is the fan just keeps running even when not on a dryer program. Is it possible to just disconnect it and the heating element as well of course?
You could, however it’s better to disconnect it from the PCB if possible (printed circuit board) - the reason is because even when you insulate the ends you don’t want those wires bumping around near the top. The issue could be a couple of things, the obvious one is the PCB is faulty as it shouldn’t be directing power to the drying cycle unless it’s selected. The PCB is usually at the bottom on washer dryers however does vary between models. The second reason might seem odd however the wash heater could be low insulation and faulty, depending on the make and model this might be a likely fault, if it’s hoover Candy like the one in this video they were notorious for the heaters going low insulation (even more common in hard water areas) and gave a whole list of faults such as not spinning, the door won’t unlock and occasionally the dryer side keeps running or the water valve won’t work. The reason is when they go low insulation a small amount of voltage leaks out and ends up circulating the machine and confusing the PCB. A very quick test you can do is take off the back panel, the washer heater is usually located just above the motor (most things vary with model but this is by far the most common setup) - then disconnect that, and run it again. If the fault continues then you can eliminate the wash heater and your looking at a PCB error. If it does correct the issue though usually you can find a heater for £15 or under and it’s a matter of disconnecting the old one, slotting it out (this can be tight so as long as your not prying against the tub which can damage your ok) - then sliding in the new one (make sure it slots in the bracket if there is one on your model) and putting the wires back on. If it’s a PCB error you can try disconnecting the heater and fan, however wether you do at PCB or topside, make sure they are tucked away neatly and very secure and make sure the Earth wire is still connected. This will work on most models with the exception of a few which the PCB tries to get a reading through the heaters before starting any cycle and it will detect they are not there and throw up a dryer heater error code. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Thank you, I was getting an E11 error, opened the machine to find the NTC had split in half - the metal cap was still attached but the plastic backing had separated and as soon as I touched it the springs inside dropped down the machine, new sensor on order.
Very useful video, thanks Jason. A quick question on the changer heater on my Beko combi - air supply into the drum is good and cables look intact. I changed one of the TOC’s as the same one kept tripping but it’s still happening. My guess is that the duct is full as I lifted it all out and there was a lot around the fan blades (I did the best I could to clear it all). I’ve tried splitting the duct to clear it properly but it seems pretty well fixed. Are there any tips to get the top half off? Should it come off easily?
You can gently lever them apart using a screwdriver. If you can open it a little, and insert the flat blade, then move along the crack and twist the screwdriver. Some have a glue put between them to keep fixed as well as the bolts. Just be careful not to crack the chamber 👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Jason, thanks for the above advice; it all worked well for a little while but unfortunately the Beko now seems to be ending the cycle between the drain and before starting the drying (replaced the drain pump a while ago as well so all that seems to be working). I’ve checked all the bits in the video and also managed to de-lint everything and airflow was all good. When I run a 30 min dry cycle it will start for a minute or two and the fan even starts to run, but it quickly ends the cycle again. Any ideas what else it could be, or do I need to give up!Thanks
Hello. The heating chamber gets too overheated and I tried to open it and to remove the fluff. But I couldnt open the heating vhamber with only 2 screws as shown in a video. What do you suggest me? Thank you!
Hey, so to unlock it - wait a little while and the repress the screw driver the same way as you did to lock it and it should be fine again. In retrospect I realised after I made the video that I should have left that part out as there is some nuisances to some of them 😆
Thank you for your answer .. we actually did this but it didn’t work. Basically the lock is locked but on the screen it says “please close the door” so we tried putting the screw driver again to trick it that the door is closed and turn on a drying program - then turning it of as we would if the door was actually closed - when it should unlock once cooled down - but nothing.. I was thinking to maybe leave the drying program to finish completely and try to wait until it unlocks itself completely, but there is probably no hope in that and I guess we need help of a professional 😢
@@dominikabartalska8037 For your machine, when a you stop it, or the cycle ends, do you usually have to wait a minute, then hear a click and you can open it again? If so, then what I mentioned should work. Stop the cycle, then wait a few minutes and gently press the screwdriver in again and you should hear the click and then it will allow foot to close again. What make and model is your machine?
Yes, when it stops the program, after about 5 minutes it clicks to suggest it’s unlocked or once the program indicates it’s over, I can go to the off mode and it will unlock immediately. Regarding your advice, (stop the cycle and press the screw driver again ) - the screw driver has to be in the lock in order to stop the program - so as it is inside the lock we - turn it off - wait - and then press it whilst it is in ? Or remove it and then put it back and press ? The machine is Hoover Wash & Dry 500
Also maybe it’s worth noting - once I turn the machine on a program with the screw driver in , the lock does click - same when I turn it off - as it should - but the actual lock doesn’t move
If you have a multi meter then set it to Ohms - then put the meter on each of the connectors of the heater. This will test continuity (connection) from one side of the heater to the other. You looking for a reading of between say 30 ohms and 300 ohms which varies depending on the make of the heater. A broken will will show no reading (open line) or massive resistance in the Kohms or Mohms areas. Inside the heater is resistance wire, which when current flows through the resistance the wire naturally has generates heat, when that line is broken then no current can pass and thus no heat. The next way to test is via an insulation test, which you would need an insulation meter for, this tests if voltage is leaking from the heater, in those cases however the heater usually heats, however it can produce different faults or trip your electrics as voltage is leaking however is still passing through allowing it to heat.
My machine doesnt give any error and it doesnt dry when it become hot the fiuz make (tics)and doesnt dry just work 6 min and stop …the cables are ok …I didn’t understand why happens this problem
It’s hard to explain with language differences. If it’s getting hot, however it’s not drying then there has to be an issue with air flow, and I would look for blockages. I’m not sure what you meant however.
Reasons this can happen I explained briefly in the video. If there is a blockage of fluff, then it will overheat and trip because the fan isn’t generating enough air flow to cool the chamber. To check this you can bypass the door lock as explained in the video, once the door is bypassed it stays that way and the door won’t close, you need to end the cycle, wait a couple of minutes and repress the screwdriver in to unlock and set back to normal. This bypass doesn’t work on mechanical locks that disengage the minute the cycle ends with a loud “click click” sound. If it is blocked then you need to take the chamber off and remove as much fluff as you can. If the fan isn’t spinning then it will also cause this effect, you can run it with the lid off and see if the fan is spinning usually, or hear it. Another less common reason is the water valve, this would be harder for you to diagnose without experience, however the tripple water valves on washer dryers, the third one sprays water into the chamber to cause the steam to condense into water, without that, the steam can backlog faster than the fan can move the air, causing this effect. It’s much less common though.
A plumber isn’t really the person to call, they don’t know about appliances and if they do it’s usually basic self taught stuff. An electrician is closer but again are not trained with appliances but would def have better luck as this is all electrical side and they would likely know how to fault find that side using meters. In reality though it is pretty simple as in this video. When it’s a more complicated reason you really want to call a trained appliance engineer. An example could be a machine that’s TOC’s keep tripping without obvious reason, and it could be the dryer water valve which sprays water in to cool and condense the steam down the condenser. Without it steam builds up and trips the TOC but it’s far less common. Going through all the reasons though is something only an experience appliance engineer can do, it’s not really for trades.
I’m having a problem with the two switches tripping out now and again. Iv opened casing and cleaned out and put back but it’s still tripping now and again at various times. Fan works and it’s hot ? It’s a hoover washer dryer HBDOS695TAMCBE80 . Hoping someone has any other things I could try . Cheers
Assuming the fan is running correctly and the casing has been cleaned out, the switches are mechanical, this means the switches have to manually trigger and are not controlled by the computer board. This limits it down to the switches being faulty or the chamber is indeed getting too hot. If both switches are tripping it’s usually because the chamber is getting too hot, which is more likely to be a weak fan when running if your sure there is air flow and machine is correctly running otherwise. The switches (TOC’s) are however cheap to source and replace on eBay if you wanted to try that. The problem is however localised to the heating side, so either the switches are faulty, the fan is weakened and is running slow during extended use or there is still a blockage occurring.
Thanks for quick reply, it looks like the fan is not running continuously during the drying stage so this maybe the issue. Does a blockage occur anywhere else that can affect the casing chamber ?
@@zerocool6167 There can be blockages int he condensing chamber, which is a little more awkward to clean however it would also cause the clothes to come out wet. In the drum, at the back of the machine there will be a plastic chamber, slightly see through. The air goes through the drum, the steam goes through this chamber, is sprayed by the extra water valve to condense the steam into water which then runs back down into the drum to drain. If the value is broken then the chamber wouldn’t overheat, just steam won’t condense properly and the clothes won’t dry properly. If a blockage occurs there, it can limit air flow but it’s usually not intermittent, you would be able to detect a lack of air flow usually continually. The way you can clean this if needed, is at the back panel you will see a black Rubber hose where it connects into drum near the bottom along with some nuts that fix it to the drum. You can remove some of these bolts and unfasten the band around the rubber and move it all slightly to the side, then use a metal coat hanger, bend a small hook shape into the end and clean it that way. Fans can start to wear out and slow down while running as well. What your best doing is to run it with the door open and check air flow. To undo the door lock as it won’t let you close door again, is to repeat the screwdriver trick after a cycle has stopped and waited a few mins.
You haven’t helped instead my washer dryer lock is stuck and cannot close the had to call someone out now..!!! Advice to anyone else don’t stick a screwdriver in your door lock!!!!
I could have replied and helped, so the way to unlock, is at the end of the cycle, the door lock will ‘cool down’ - it’s a bipolar lock usually. Then you gently just repeat the process and touch the screwdriver in and it will then unlock it. I didn’t mention in video although I could have. Did you manage to identify the problem with the drying cycle after testing air flow etc?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Don't usually post up on comments but I have to give you credit and praise, you saved me a call out charge and possible repair from a rip off repairer. Wicked advice and explanation for each part. Thank you very much for your video 👌🏿🙌🏿👊🏿
Thank you so much for this video. I have a Haier washer dryer that was under warranty and this happened. The engineer came and fixed it within 5min. I called today and they would charge me for 145£ to do this. I opened up the top, pushed down the safety pin and the dryer was working just fine. You are a legend and I wish more videos like yours were published
Thanks Jason! about 6 months ago my washer dryer stopped heating. Had to pay 100 euros and wait almost 2 weeks for someone to come fix it in literally 10 seconds. Today it happened again. Thanks to you it took me 5 minutes to fix and its working again.
Thanks a lot!! My washer/dryer machine wasn't heating the dryer air. The trick to push those little buttons worked perfectly. I was going to buy a new machine, so you have saved a lot of money for me. Great video!
Glad it helped 👍🏻
6 months with no dryer working 10min with your instructions and it working fine 🎉🎉🎉
Thanks, just got home from a days plastering, absolutely knackered. went to get my bed sheets out the machine and they were still wet. You have just save my washing machine from a good chucking in the sea. You're a legend.
The amount of money you have saved me right now. This is gold. Just had to clean the exhaustion pipe and pres down the saftey pin. Thanks alot.
Had to watch a few nonsense videos before I found yours but you’ve sorted my issue. Wife has been told off for ending dry cycles too soon. Thanks for a great video which was well explained!
You've probably helped hundreds if not thousands with this video, myself included so thank you for uploading this
Excellent video. I used this information to fix the drying side of my washer dryer. I got caught by the door lock but managed to work out it out by myself in the end. Thanks for taking the time to share you expertise.
I've thought it didn't work because of lint blockage and I've cleaned out the fan and it's intake, but wondered why the condenser wasn't heating up.
My model had a button only on one of the breakers, but this solved my issue.
10/10 video
Exact same wire broke on my 9 year old Candy 8kg model. This video saved the day!
Thanks today I repaired my dryer heater by pushing one of this thermal fuses. Saved a lot of time and money perhaps.
Thanks mate. Ours stopped producing heat. Did exactly this and one of the 'breakers' had tripped. All working good again. Literally a 5 min job. 3 screws at the back to take the lid off. Many thanks 😊
I had a issue that fan was stuck and after unstucking heater was not working. I didn’t know about COT reset. After pressing the reset button everything works fine now. Thank you!!!!
Jason, you just helped me save a couple of EUR! Thank you!
Caution for anyone trying the screwdriver into the lock trick - on my Candy Rapido washer/dryer, after doing it, I had to dismount the lock, pry it open and really force the lock back open. Maybe there are better ways, but this is the road I took, and it was a scary one ;)
Anyway, again, thank you! Money well saved!
Yes I regret putting the part about the door lock without explaining how to undo it - To unlock again, when you switch off, wait a few mins and gently press screwdriver back in to disengage. Overall it’s been a good video for people however a few have had an issue trying the door lock. I don’t know how to video edit to change this 😆
Great video, has helped me get my wascher-dryer back on track. 😄
WOW, thank you, this fixed my issue, saved me money in calling someone out (lesson learnt, dont turn off the dryer early, my bad)
You are an absolute legend, thanks so much. I live on a ship and it is a mission to replace as its heavy and cant get parts or a new 220v 50hz washer dryer. I simply pressed the reset (on the TOC) like you show and now its working great. You have a paypal or patreon so I can give you a donation. Also will do a video link to your channel on my channel. Thanks again. Out.
carry on sailing Thanks for appreciating it. I just made the videos to help really because a lot of the stuff is easy fixes, not really growing the channel :-). Glad it’s up and running man! Happy sailing! :D
Thank you Jason . This saved me money and a headache. Reset button worked a charm. God bless
Thanks, Jason! that fixed the problem with our Siemens iQ300 dryer. Great post.
You just saved me £115 Haha thanks for this mate. Really helpful
Best Video and information on the whole world wide web. Thanks a lot! Cheers
A great video! Exactly what I needed, working on my siemens
Great wideo, thanx for info with termo senzor reset... Fix thi and now working, aggain
Thank you for such a clear video! Fixed the FD error on our Haier. 👍
First Thank you you have just saved me £400 quid if you ever facy a beer i buy you one
Thank you so much ❤🎉🎉🎉🎉I fixed my machine.
Super!! Thanks so much Jason for the advise!! U ' ve just saved me 500 Euro's,,👏👏👏
Great video - couple of quid for the tool to get the lid off and it's fixed. Cheers!
Your video help me solve my Candy dryer problem, thanks so much 🙏
Awesome. Thank you. Saved me money just there
Brilliant that's worked for me. Thank you so much.
Just saved me some money bud thankyou!
Hi jason great video we opened it up all elements test fine on meter, fan spins freely. Did notice though the red trip wire was black and the box was slightly scorched clipped it and reattached but it keeps tripping out still every couple of uses...
There is a couple of reasons, in the video at the start I was testing the air flow, part of the reason for that procedure is because there is also a condenser at the back of most models, The condenser is where the water values inject water to condense the steam, it’s usually a long plastic container shape, if this is blocked with fluff then it can cause it to trip.
The other reason is a faulty toc which can occur.
The only things that can cause the toc to trip is a faulty one, or blocked air flow. The heater is static and just heats until the thermostat tells it to stop (however faulty thermostats almost always fail the opposite where they won’t direct power) - the fan if turning won’t be at fault either, the fan blades can gather a lot of fluff between them allowing it to turn but not direct air, in which case you can open up the chamber and de-lint it, another reason is the condenser as I mentioned and lastly is the washer being too full. The reason dryers have split capacities like 8Kg/5kg is because the drying part needs space in the drum to let air circulate and leave towards the condenser. However I’m assuming if it’s a new problem that’s caused blackening on electrical wires then it’s not an overloading problem.
If I was attending as a job I would check air flow and then clean where necessary (however the condensers can be a pain, using a metal coat hanger bent into shape and a bottle brush saves time) - then if the air flow tested good I would replace the toc (is usually a few pounds)
Never bothered fixing mine in all the years it has been broken as I hardly ever used it anyway, but now my CH has packed in it's a bitch getting clothes dried indoors until I get a new boiler. Got the machine pulled out and ready to disassemble and check out your guidance (was DISGUSTING underneath!). Even if I can't fix it, thanks very much for posting this.
I’ll be up for a little bit - what’s the symptoms? I can try and give you some advice if you get lost :)
@@jasonhounsell3297 Sorry Jason, didn't expect a reply and it's been a long week so I fell asleep for a bit there rather than tackle it in a crabbit mood. It's a Zanussi Timeline 1600 washer-dryer, 16 years old and still going strong except the dryer tumbles etc. but the air is cold, doesn't heat up. I'm a server engineer and used to pulling those beasts apart, so I figure what could go wrong? Lol! Nothing to lose by trying.
@@Irene-gq4jr The Zanussi ones operate the same way as the one in this video as most do, however the heaters are a little more tricky to change if needed - let me know how you get in anyway, drying side faults are usually fairly straight forward and simple to fix :-)
Let me know :-)
@@jasonhounsell3297 Really appreciate that Jason, about to have a go and will let you know how it goes.
thanks I did it and my dryer working again ❤
Thank you for this vid. My dryer just stopped at the weekend, a few seconds into th dry and the display quickly flashed "err" then turned off. Didn't matter theb what function I selected the same err. Left it about 30 mins, went to try it again and it all seemed to work. I put some items in, clicked try, 30 mins later noticed it wasn't getting hot. A tested a quick was off a towel at 60C and that deffo got hot, so I thought it's weird that it heats water but not air for dying.
Just opened the top, there are rhe two thermostats, one of them clicked ever so slightly when pressed. Tested dryers with the lid off and sure enough it's getting hot. I presume then n the chamber are two seperate chambers one for water and one for air which is why their are two thermostats?
@@Emexrulsier They both link to heating chamber. It’s just a double up on safety measures.
Hey, thanks for the video! It seems that I have exact same 'heater with fan' element in my washer dryer, could you tell me how do i get it open for cleaning? The fan spins with lots of resistance and there is loads of lint inside, and the metal casing seems glued/pressed together. Is it even serviceable?
Great tip! You saved me!!!
I’ve got the same problem, I’m going see what’s causing this. Thanks for your video.
Just did it and it works again! Thanks for this!
Thank you very much. This was very helpful!
Hey thanks for the guide! but what is that plastic bit on top of the fan? the little white plastic wheel looking thing. mine fell off and i'm not sure if it will make a big difference in performance. not sure if you'll still reply to a 4 year old video, but hope you will!
Thanks Jason that is really helpful. Our problem is the fan just keeps running even when not on a dryer program. Is it possible to just disconnect it and the heating element as well of course?
You could, however it’s better to disconnect it from the PCB if possible (printed circuit board) - the reason is because even when you insulate the ends you don’t want those wires bumping around near the top.
The issue could be a couple of things, the obvious one is the PCB is faulty as it shouldn’t be directing power to the drying cycle unless it’s selected. The PCB is usually at the bottom on washer dryers however does vary between models.
The second reason might seem odd however the wash heater could be low insulation and faulty, depending on the make and model this might be a likely fault, if it’s hoover Candy like the one in this video they were notorious for the heaters going low insulation (even more common in hard water areas) and gave a whole list of faults such as not spinning, the door won’t unlock and occasionally the dryer side keeps running or the water valve won’t work. The reason is when they go low insulation a small amount of voltage leaks out and ends up circulating the machine and confusing the PCB.
A very quick test you can do is take off the back panel, the washer heater is usually located just above the motor (most things vary with model but this is by far the most common setup) - then disconnect that, and run it again. If the fault continues then you can eliminate the wash heater and your looking at a PCB error. If it does correct the issue though usually you can find a heater for £15 or under and it’s a matter of disconnecting the old one, slotting it out (this can be tight so as long as your not prying against the tub which can damage your ok) - then sliding in the new one (make sure it slots in the bracket if there is one on your model) and putting the wires back on.
If it’s a PCB error you can try disconnecting the heater and fan, however wether you do at PCB or topside, make sure they are tucked away neatly and very secure and make sure the Earth wire is still connected. This will work on most models with the exception of a few which the PCB tries to get a reading through the heaters before starting any cycle and it will detect they are not there and throw up a dryer heater error code.
Hope this helps 👍🏻
Thank you, I was getting an E11 error, opened the machine to find the NTC had split in half - the metal cap was still attached but the plastic backing had separated and as soon as I touched it the springs inside dropped down the machine, new sensor on order.
Good Job 👍🏻 they are easy enough to change and pretty cheap
Very useful video, thanks Jason. A quick question on the changer heater on my Beko combi - air supply into the drum is good and cables look intact. I changed one of the TOC’s as the same one kept tripping but it’s still happening. My guess is that the duct is full as I lifted it all out and there was a lot around the fan blades (I did the best I could to clear it all). I’ve tried splitting the duct to clear it properly but it seems pretty well fixed. Are there any tips to get the top half off? Should it come off easily?
You can gently lever them apart using a screwdriver. If you can open it a little, and insert the flat blade, then move along the crack and twist the screwdriver. Some have a glue put between them to keep fixed as well as the bolts. Just be careful not to crack the chamber 👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks Jason, I’ll give it a go later
Hi Jason, thanks for the above advice; it all worked well for a little while but unfortunately the Beko now seems to be ending the cycle between the drain and before starting the drying (replaced the drain pump a while ago as well so all that seems to be working). I’ve checked all the bits in the video and also managed to de-lint everything and airflow was all good. When I run a 30 min dry cycle it will start for a minute or two and the fan even starts to run, but it quickly ends the cycle again. Any ideas what else it could be, or do I need to give up!Thanks
Hello. The heating chamber gets too overheated and I tried to open it and to remove the fluff. But I couldnt open the heating vhamber with only 2 screws as shown in a video. What do you suggest me? Thank you!
My Zanussi washer dryer needed a new thermostat. Easy fix
Brilliant, thankyou for your help
Mine got this problem from the fan bearings, fan was sized, and protection cut power to the heating element
Life saver 👍
u r the Man!
Hey , the trick probably worked but now we can’t make the door lock unlock even tho the screw driver is out😢any advice ?
Hey, so to unlock it - wait a little while and the repress the screw driver the same way as you did to lock it and it should be fine again.
In retrospect I realised after I made the video that I should have left that part out as there is some nuisances to some of them 😆
Thank you for your answer .. we actually did this but it didn’t work. Basically the lock is locked but on the screen it says “please close the door” so we tried putting the screw driver again to trick it that the door is closed and turn on a drying program - then turning it of as we would if the door was actually closed - when it should unlock once cooled down - but nothing.. I was thinking to maybe leave the drying program to finish completely and try to wait until it unlocks itself completely, but there is probably no hope in that and I guess we need help of a professional 😢
@@dominikabartalska8037 For your machine, when a you stop it, or the cycle ends, do you usually have to wait a minute, then hear a click and you can open it again?
If so, then what I mentioned should work. Stop the cycle, then wait a few minutes and gently press the screwdriver in again and you should hear the click and then it will allow foot to close again.
What make and model is your machine?
Yes, when it stops the program, after about 5 minutes it clicks to suggest it’s unlocked or once the program indicates it’s over, I can go to the off mode and it will unlock immediately.
Regarding your advice, (stop the cycle and press the screw driver again ) - the screw driver has to be in the lock in order to stop the program - so as it is inside the lock we - turn it off - wait - and then press it whilst it is in ? Or remove it and then put it back and press ?
The machine is Hoover Wash & Dry 500
Also maybe it’s worth noting - once I turn the machine on a program with the screw driver in , the lock does click - same when I turn it off - as it should - but the actual lock doesn’t move
How tf do you get the top off
Thanks!!!
how do I test the heating element
If you have a multi meter then set it to Ohms - then put the meter on each of the connectors of the heater. This will test continuity (connection) from one side of the heater to the other. You looking for a reading of between say 30 ohms and 300 ohms which varies depending on the make of the heater. A broken will will show no reading (open line) or massive resistance in the Kohms or Mohms areas.
Inside the heater is resistance wire, which when current flows through the resistance the wire naturally has generates heat, when that line is broken then no current can pass and thus no heat.
The next way to test is via an insulation test, which you would need an insulation meter for, this tests if voltage is leaking from the heater, in those cases however the heater usually heats, however it can produce different faults or trip your electrics as voltage is leaking however is still passing through allowing it to heat.
Brilliant candy wanted over £100 to come out dont think so 😊
My machine doesnt give any error and it doesnt dry when it become hot the fiuz make (tics)and doesnt dry just work 6 min and stop …the cables are ok …I didn’t understand why happens this problem
It’s hard to explain with language differences. If it’s getting hot, however it’s not drying then there has to be an issue with air flow, and I would look for blockages. I’m not sure what you meant however.
Did this thought it was gunna fix it but sadly still not working :(
I fix it but when i wash the clothes 2 times the heat sensor again turn off
Reasons this can happen I explained briefly in the video.
If there is a blockage of fluff, then it will overheat and trip because the fan isn’t generating enough air flow to cool the chamber. To check this you can bypass the door lock as explained in the video, once the door is bypassed it stays that way and the door won’t close, you need to end the cycle, wait a couple of minutes and repress the screwdriver in to unlock and set back to normal. This bypass doesn’t work on mechanical locks that disengage the minute the cycle ends with a loud “click click” sound. If it is blocked then you need to take the chamber off and remove as much fluff as you can.
If the fan isn’t spinning then it will also cause this effect, you can run it with the lid off and see if the fan is spinning usually, or hear it.
Another less common reason is the water valve, this would be harder for you to diagnose without experience, however the tripple water valves on washer dryers, the third one sprays water into the chamber to cause the steam to condense into water, without that, the steam can backlog faster than the fan can move the air, causing this effect. It’s much less common though.
Hey anyone know how much a plumber would charge for doing a job like this?
A plumber isn’t really the person to call, they don’t know about appliances and if they do it’s usually basic self taught stuff.
An electrician is closer but again are not trained with appliances but would def have better luck as this is all electrical side and they would likely know how to fault find that side using meters.
In reality though it is pretty simple as in this video.
When it’s a more complicated reason you really want to call a trained appliance engineer.
An example could be a machine that’s TOC’s keep tripping without obvious reason, and it could be the dryer water valve which sprays water in to cool and condense the steam down the condenser. Without it steam builds up and trips the TOC but it’s far less common. Going through all the reasons though is something only an experience appliance engineer can do, it’s not really for trades.
I’m having a problem with the two switches tripping out now and again. Iv opened casing and cleaned out and put back but it’s still tripping now and again at various times. Fan works and it’s hot ? It’s a hoover washer dryer HBDOS695TAMCBE80 . Hoping someone has any other things I could try . Cheers
Assuming the fan is running correctly and the casing has been cleaned out, the switches are mechanical, this means the switches have to manually trigger and are not controlled by the computer board.
This limits it down to the switches being faulty or the chamber is indeed getting too hot.
If both switches are tripping it’s usually because the chamber is getting too hot, which is more likely to be a weak fan when running if your sure there is air flow and machine is correctly running otherwise.
The switches (TOC’s) are however cheap to source and replace on eBay if you wanted to try that.
The problem is however localised to the heating side, so either the switches are faulty, the fan is weakened and is running slow during extended use or there is still a blockage occurring.
Thanks for quick reply, it looks like the fan is not running continuously during the drying stage so this maybe the issue. Does a blockage occur anywhere else that can affect the casing chamber ?
@@zerocool6167 There can be blockages int he condensing chamber, which is a little more awkward to clean however it would also cause the clothes to come out wet.
In the drum, at the back of the machine there will be a plastic chamber, slightly see through. The air goes through the drum, the steam goes through this chamber, is sprayed by the extra water valve to condense the steam into water which then runs back down into the drum to drain.
If the value is broken then the chamber wouldn’t overheat, just steam won’t condense properly and the clothes won’t dry properly.
If a blockage occurs there, it can limit air flow but it’s usually not intermittent, you would be able to detect a lack of air flow usually continually.
The way you can clean this if needed, is at the back panel you will see a black
Rubber hose where it connects into drum near the bottom along with some nuts that fix it to the drum. You can remove some of these bolts and unfasten the band around the rubber and move it all slightly to the side, then use a metal coat hanger, bend a small hook shape into the end and clean it that way.
Fans can start to wear out and slow down while running as well.
What your best doing is to run it with the door open and check air flow. To undo the door lock as it won’t let you close door again, is to repeat the screwdriver trick after a cycle has stopped and waited a few mins.
You haven’t helped instead my washer dryer lock is stuck and cannot close the had to call someone out now..!!! Advice to anyone else don’t stick a screwdriver in your door lock!!!!
I could have replied and helped, so the way to unlock, is at the end of the cycle, the door lock will ‘cool down’ - it’s a bipolar lock usually. Then you gently just repeat the process and touch the screwdriver in and it will then unlock it. I didn’t mention in video although I could have. Did you manage to identify the problem with the drying cycle after testing air flow etc?
Thanks so much, you're a lifesaver!