Great video. The drying function on my hoover washer dryer combi has stopped working. No sign of the clothes even warming up to dry. Took the top off, checked the thermal cut out switches and one had clicked up, so I clicked it back down so hopefully they fixes it! It’s only just over a year old. Many thanks again
Thanks for your superb video. It just saved me a repair call out fee of around £150 because I hadn't realised the twin thermostatic cutout devices on the heating manifold were resettable and one of them had popped. For reference my model is different (WDYN 854D-80) but the dryer manifold stats, sensor, motor, heating element and connections are identical. Finally, if I have to re-crimp a high-current connection like this due to overheating (which happens due to increasing high resistance between the wire and plug over time due to oxidisation) I always solder replacement plugs to reduce that resistance and limit a reoccurrence of the fault.
Thank you very much Jason. You saved me a lot of money. Few months back I found out about the tripping issues. And then today it just kept tripping and this time every 5-10 minutes. I watched your video again and i found out the little fan is not working. I just spin the fan manually and it worked again. Thank you very much for your helpful video. All the best 😍 BTW, I subscribed to your channel. ❣️
This really helped me a lot. Got a similar model and the dryer just stopped working. Turned out to be that the rubber door seal had just fallen of. Got a new spring and now it's purring along just fine! :D
Thanks for showing! I thought the element just sat there at the side of the drum thanks to that stupid calgon advert but now i know the truth that it is in an interesting blower assembly 😁
Great Repair, my sisters Zanussi IZ16S washing machine broke down with an E40 error code last week, the safty door locking mechanism on the door had failed. she called a washing machine engineer who wanted £120 to repair it, haha, i did it for her it cost me £17 for a replacement door locking mechanism and took me 5 minutes to fit it.
+FourX2k3 Good work! It's handy to know the basics of washing machine repair as it saves you both call out fees and the time off work to wait for the repairman. I usually get 4-5 repairs out of a low cost washing machine before it is ready for the scrapyard. Hoover charge a fixed £110 to fix this.
Great vid , nice repair ,I would have replaced the thermal cut out switch (that was the round one at the front with two wires ) it controlls how hot it gets ,when they start going bad the wire and connectors get over heated and melt
+MrBuck295 Thanks, I am fairly sure in this instance however that the fault was a bad contact that got worse over time, I had to really file down the upper contact so it has been burning for months/years. If the safety cutouts had tripped, I would have investigated further, but they had not tripped as it has been getting cooler not hotter due to the bad contact. It's working fine now, however if it starts tripping out at any point soon I will take your advice
Excellent! My washer/dryer was tripping the thermal fuses constantly. Turn out to be a massive build up of lint in the drying tunnel. What is the sealing compound used to seal the two halfs of the tunnel? Many thanks
Either the condensation trap is blocked at rear of the machine or aluminium fan tunnel is blocked with lint. You need to clean out properly or it'll keep tripping. The thermal cut out switch is not a quick fix it's a safety device to high light a blockage and hopefully prevent a fire.
I have a very similar machine (VM W6540-80) which has recently started knocking on fast spin. The fan on top of the heater has come lose and is banging on the heater casing when the drum moves. Yours is the only video on RUclips that seems to have any info at all on these machines. Mine is 8 years old and was constantly breaking down in it's first year, I ended up on first name terms with the repair man, but he seemed to fix everything that needed fixing and it has been no trouble since then except that at some point the dryer stopped working, or at least constantly tripped. I don't need to use it so it didn't bother me, but now I think I know what the problem is as the fan that is lose is very stiff and dry to turn manually. You didn't deal with it in your video, but it looks to me that to re-secure the fan or to remove it completely I need to take the top off the heater housing? I wonder if new fans are available?
If any one has the hoover AXI washer dryer, the direction ls are the same here to get to the element and fan, however the metal element housing is stuck down the silicone, you will need force to get a flat head screwdriver under it and pry it up,the problem on mine was that the thermo switch kept tripping because there was no air intake into the fan, on the bottom of the metal housing is a large hole where the fan sucks in air, under that is a plastic tunnel, mine was compacted full of wet lint. You need to get it all out with a hoover and what ever you can find to dig it out, i used a cleaning rod for a 12 gauge shotgun with a brass bore brush attached
Yeah, thing with washing machines is they vibrate a hell of a lot so it doesn't take much for a spade connector like that to become loose to the point it starts to heat up through arcing etc. So it might be fine now you've sorted the connector out.
6:12 - Perhaps spring on rubber door seal hot air port *first?* Lightly smear with silicone grease the rubber heat port inlet and then push home the hot-air casing.
I prefer to get separate washer and dryer as if they terminally die you loose both. What happened to your Candy from an earlier vid BTW? One of my main considerations when buying stuff now is can I buy parts for it easily. As sadly some makes will only supply authorized repair centers/engineers. I have a cheap as chips BEKO dryer and you can literally buy everything for it. I kid you not I could build the whole thing again. Though changing the front bearings was an experience I would not want to revisit again in a hurry. New swear words were invented!
+steadicamant Insufficient expansion slots in my kitchen for separates sadly (something to do with pinball machines in the kitchen) The Candy one died fatally not long after the last repair. IIRC the motor controller and the heater died and it was more than I was willing to spend on repairing a 7 year old machine any further I buy Hoover/Candy because despite them being cheap crap that doesn't last, they are very repairable by someone like me (including parts availability)
thanks for the information. i have Hoover Dynamic Next 1400 rpm ( model number WDXA 4851/1-80) and i was able wash the clothes but as soon as drying starts its starts spinning but clothes never dried and its comes out wet, any idea what could be the issue and how can i test the element or circuit board?
Yours wasn't one of the models affected by the recall notice was it? They had a nasty habit of catching fire due to the thermal cut out not cuting out properly, Usually when fluff clogs up the system. Keep an eye on that new crimp btw. It worries me as to it's temp rating. I have had issues with these type in the past really not getting along with higher temp ranges. It was only a 230v/3a on mine but I think the high temp environment melted the plastic housing on mine and made a hell of a mess.
+steadicamant It's Indiset that are setting on fire is it not? Loads of people at work have had recall notices about them. I'll set a reminder to check the crimp in a couple of weeks to make sure it's not deteriorating. I've noticed immediately the dryer is now hotter than it has been for the last year
It's the idiset/hotpoint company I believe. Though I did miss read your title header as hotpoint instead of hoover. Though there are Hoover recalls on some older washer dryers. www.uk-afi.org/product-recall/1996-09-05/ac170-ac172-ac174-ac176-ac178-ac180-ac182-ac184-a8666-a8610-a8612-a8614
Hey, my machine is very similar and using your video I'm planning on replacing the heating element and possibly the thermistor. The safety thermostat keeps tripping because it's overheating for some reason. Do you know of any other reason why it would keep overheating? Excellent video btw.
+Classical Rips They are not massively popular because they are less reliable than seperates, but in the UK space is expensive, and most people don't have space for a washer and dryer in the kitchen. Same reason why all of ours are front loading instead of top loading, they are designed to fit under a kitchen counter, we don't have space for top loaders (even though they seem loads better when I have used them in the US
American top loaders are crap compared to front loaders, especially in rinsing, since most only rinse once, the agitator strips your clothes to bits, and they don't even have a heating element, so the water is only as hot as tap water can be, which is often not hot enough. So front loaders all the way
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Great video. The drying function on my hoover washer dryer combi has stopped working. No sign of the clothes even warming up to dry. Took the top off, checked the thermal cut out switches and one had clicked up, so I clicked it back down so hopefully they fixes it!
It’s only just over a year old. Many thanks again
Thanks for your superb video. It just saved me a repair call out fee of around £150 because I hadn't realised the twin thermostatic cutout devices on the heating manifold were resettable and one of them had popped. For reference my model is different (WDYN 854D-80) but the dryer manifold stats, sensor, motor, heating element and connections are identical. Finally, if I have to re-crimp a high-current connection like this due to overheating (which happens due to increasing high resistance between the wire and plug over time due to oxidisation) I always solder replacement plugs to reduce that resistance and limit a reoccurrence of the fault.
Thanks man, £20 on a crimp tool kit and back in business. Kudos to you for this super helpful video. Cheers.
Thank you very much Jason. You saved me a lot of money. Few months back I found out about the tripping issues. And then today it just kept tripping and this time every 5-10 minutes. I watched your video again and i found out the little fan is not working. I just spin the fan manually and it worked again. Thank you very much for your helpful video. All the best 😍 BTW, I subscribed to your channel. ❣️
This really helped me a lot. Got a similar model and the dryer just stopped working. Turned out to be that the rubber door seal had just fallen of. Got a new spring and now it's purring along just fine! :D
Thanks for this video. Luckily my issue was just needing to reset the thermo cutouts, but this showed me where I needed to look.
Thanks for showing! I thought the element just sat there at the side of the drum thanks to that stupid calgon advert but now i know the truth that it is in an interesting blower assembly 😁
Great Repair, my sisters Zanussi IZ16S washing machine broke down with an E40 error code last week, the safty door locking
mechanism on the door had failed. she called a washing machine engineer who wanted £120 to repair it, haha, i did it for her it cost me £17 for a replacement door locking mechanism and took me 5 minutes to fit it.
+FourX2k3 Good work! It's handy to know the basics of washing machine repair as it saves you both call out fees and the time off work to wait for the repairman. I usually get 4-5 repairs out of a low cost washing machine before it is ready for the scrapyard. Hoover charge a fixed £110 to fix this.
Great vid , nice repair ,I would have replaced the thermal cut out switch (that was the round one at the front with two wires ) it controlls how hot it gets ,when they start going bad the wire and connectors get over heated and melt
+MrBuck295 Thanks, I am fairly sure in this instance however that the fault was a bad contact that got worse over time, I had to really file down the upper contact so it has been burning for months/years. If the safety cutouts had tripped, I would have investigated further, but they had not tripped as it has been getting cooler not hotter due to the bad contact. It's working fine now, however if it starts tripping out at any point soon I will take your advice
Great! It was one of the thermal switched tripped. Have replace a few parts on ours but it just keeps on going 12 years on..
That problem was never going do be due to a short ... but you knew that anyway ... good demo video.
Great video, luckily my problem was with the thermo switches cutting out so was pretty simple to fix!
Excellent! My washer/dryer was tripping the thermal fuses constantly. Turn out to be a massive build up of lint in the drying tunnel. What is the sealing compound used to seal the two halfs of the tunnel? Many thanks
Really helpful as found our issue was it tripped. Unfortunately, it keeps doing it so now we are a loss as to why? Any ideas?
Same did you find out why it keeps tripping?
@@karlalexjames no be had to buy a new one
Either the condensation trap is blocked at rear of the machine or aluminium fan tunnel is blocked with lint. You need to clean out properly or it'll keep tripping. The thermal cut out switch is not a quick fix it's a safety device to high light a blockage and hopefully prevent a fire.
@@Journeyman76524thanks, but this was 3 years ago and we just brought a new one instead
I have a very similar machine (VM W6540-80) which has recently started knocking on fast spin. The fan on top of the heater has come lose and is banging on the heater casing when the drum moves. Yours is the only video on RUclips that seems to have any info at all on these machines. Mine is 8 years old and was constantly breaking down in it's first year, I ended up on first name terms with the repair man, but he seemed to fix everything that needed fixing and it has been no trouble since then except that at some point the dryer stopped working, or at least constantly tripped. I don't need to use it so it didn't bother me, but now I think I know what the problem is as the fan that is lose is very stiff and dry to turn manually.
You didn't deal with it in your video, but it looks to me that to re-secure the fan or to remove it completely I need to take the top off the heater housing? I wonder if new fans are available?
If any one has the hoover AXI washer dryer, the direction ls are the same here to get to the element and fan, however the metal element housing is stuck down the silicone, you will need force to get a flat head screwdriver under it and pry it up,the problem on mine was that the thermo switch kept tripping because there was no air intake into the fan, on the bottom of the metal housing is a large hole where the fan sucks in air, under that is a plastic tunnel, mine was compacted full of wet lint. You need to get it all out with a hoover and what ever you can find to dig it out, i used a cleaning rod for a 12 gauge shotgun with a brass bore brush attached
Great job! Does sound like thermal cut out might be glitching!
+GadgetUK164 Cheers mate, I am hoping for purely a bad contact at this time, if it starts tripping out I will investigate further, but so far so good
Yeah, thing with washing machines is they vibrate a hell of a lot so it doesn't take much for a spade connector like that to become loose to the point it starts to heat up through arcing etc. So it might be fine now you've sorted the connector out.
We need vince to do a washing machine fix , about to attempt a AEG dryer repair myself , hoping a blocked condenser but who knows
6:12 - Perhaps spring on rubber door seal hot air port *first?* Lightly smear with silicone grease the rubber heat port inlet and then push home the hot-air casing.
Nice video,do you know how much degrees these elements can reach?i measure the case while it's working and it's around 60 Celsius
Thanks for the video...got the same washing machine hopping it has the same problem
I prefer to get separate washer and dryer as if they terminally die you loose both.
What happened to your Candy from an earlier vid BTW?
One of my main considerations when buying stuff now is can I buy parts for it easily. As sadly some makes will only supply authorized repair centers/engineers.
I have a cheap as chips BEKO dryer and you can literally buy everything for it. I kid you not I could build the whole thing again. Though changing the front bearings was an experience I would not want to revisit again in a hurry. New swear words were invented!
+steadicamant Insufficient expansion slots in my kitchen for separates sadly (something to do with pinball machines in the kitchen)
The Candy one died fatally not long after the last repair. IIRC the motor controller and the heater died and it was more than I was willing to spend on repairing a 7 year old machine any further
I buy Hoover/Candy because despite them being cheap crap that doesn't last, they are very repairable by someone like me (including parts availability)
thanks for the information.
i have Hoover Dynamic Next 1400 rpm ( model number WDXA 4851/1-80) and i was able wash the clothes but as soon as drying starts its starts spinning but clothes never dried and its comes out wet,
any idea what could be the issue and how can i test the element or circuit board?
Where to order the parts from please give details .
Yours wasn't one of the models affected by the recall notice was it? They had a nasty habit of catching fire due to the thermal cut out not cuting out properly, Usually when fluff clogs up the system.
Keep an eye on that new crimp btw. It worries me as to it's temp rating. I have had issues with these type in the past really not getting along with higher temp ranges. It was only a 230v/3a on mine but I think the high temp environment melted the plastic housing on mine and made a hell of a mess.
+steadicamant It's Indiset that are setting on fire is it not? Loads of people at work have had recall notices about them.
I'll set a reminder to check the crimp in a couple of weeks to make sure it's not deteriorating. I've noticed immediately the dryer is now hotter than it has been for the last year
It's the idiset/hotpoint company I believe. Though I did miss read your title header as hotpoint instead of hoover. Though there are Hoover recalls on some older washer dryers. www.uk-afi.org/product-recall/1996-09-05/ac170-ac172-ac174-ac176-ac178-ac180-ac182-ac184-a8666-a8610-a8612-a8614
How do you split the heating unit housing? Ive got the bolts out but its rock solid :/ sadly, my ujit doesnt have a burned out connector...
Hey, my machine is very similar and using your video I'm planning on replacing the heating element and possibly the thermistor. The safety thermostat keeps tripping because it's overheating for some reason. Do you know of any other reason why it would keep overheating? Excellent video btw.
My washer/dryer was tripping the thermal fuses constantly. Turn out to be a massive build up of lint in the drying tunnel.
Where is the drying tunnel? I noticed fluff stuff when I opened it up around the heat in element but wasn't sure if it was normal
Easy as one two three.
Nice job.
Got it! RTV silicone
Are combination units popular over there in the UK? I've only ever seen separate washer and dryer units here in the states.
+Classical Rips They are not massively popular because they are less reliable than seperates, but in the UK space is expensive, and most people don't have space for a washer and dryer in the kitchen. Same reason why all of ours are front loading instead of top loading, they are designed to fit under a kitchen counter, we don't have space for top loaders (even though they seem loads better when I have used them in the US
American top loaders are crap compared to front loaders, especially in rinsing, since most only rinse once, the agitator strips your clothes to bits, and they don't even have a heating element, so the water is only as hot as tap water can be, which is often not hot enough. So front loaders all the way
It woks on 10 year old Candy GOW485D, it looks the same inside.
thankyou!!!!!
You have a powerful voice and your hands are spellbinding. Are you Korean?
Lol!
Flashing E