James get some painters tack cloths. To wipe your surface down. Just before you apply your resin. The floor damp it down. To prevent dust being kicked up. Whilst you're working. Hope this helps.
It's dust, James. Hoover the boat from stem to stern, including the ceiling and walls, then wipe the board down with proper tack cloth, before applying the resin. This is why proper paint shops have sealed rooms with fans and air filters. Just you, moving around, is shedding skin flakes and dust from your clothes. Get some of those disposable overalls. Good luck for the top coats.
I know it’s dust not air bubbles - I’m going to try to hoover and clean everything many times - keep movements to a minimum and stay off the boat. I’ll cover the piece once the resin is down and leave it
Doing the underside, is a test on what has to be done on the top, he'll see? ;-) That's why you should do passenger side auto body repairs first, for practice.
If you’re going to be sanding down the resin, I would recommend doing a second coat so you don’t sand through it. Also remember to wear that respirator when you were sanding the resin. Probably a good idea to start with a lower grit, sandpaper and work your way up, but not too high to keep that matte finish. Good luck!
Some of your power tools like the track saw have hoover attachments.... If you attach a hoover with a long hose then that will catch some dust at source. Or, like someone else suggested already, do the sawing and routing outside.
There’s no more sawing to be done until the resin is on so I’m just going to clean and clean again. I did try the hoover hose on the router but it was nearly impossible to see or use
Follow all the previous cleaning advice and also very important, once you have finished the coating build a tent of plastic sheeting over the whole project. There is a huge amount of airborne dust around falling on the still wet coating.
You need a much better dust free environment to get a good finish on the top. Get enough plastic dust sheets to create a tent around your working area (including ceiling and floor!) and disposable coveralls (ideally two sets, one for each worktop). Do all the prep, routing and sanding, then hoover. Spray around with a fine mister (this traps dust particles floating in the air). Leave to dry. Tape the plastic sheets around your working area, leaving an overlapping curtain entrance. Clean the top surface of the piece you're going to work on, put on the coveralls and move the piece inside the tent. Now you're ready to pour.
That is looking really good James, the only advice I can give regarding resin is try warming it up before mixing it.I used it years ago in my work and we kept it at temperature whilst mixing and pouring.
If you are doing a dark or opaque apoxy then you can use car body filler on the edges sanded back for a strong smooth edge or you can make a faux stone edge by slapping it on and sanding back the high spots. Nice effects can be acheived.
Hi James when your doing your Epoxy top when you have finished applying it, when it's still wet run a blow touch over the top and it will pop any little bubbles and it will level out before it sets. This can also be done on the edges when you let it roll over if needed. Doing a great job we love your videos I watch it with my wife 👍
Looking good. You should put the black pigment in before the hardener as it will give you a bit more time before it goes hard. Put the hardener in last.
Hi james, i used to work with Epoxy on a much smaller scale when doing my art but apply heat a small handheld blow torch to it after you pour it on to erradicate the air bubbles. 😊
Don’t burn it though….Resin can be a world of pain. I did a lot of art work with it. Weighing the solution gives you the wrong formula ,it’s by volume not weight - the hardener is heavier than resin….. I can’t remember, you need to look it up. The final finish will be softer otherwise. The room needs to be scrupulously clean I built a tent over the work. You will never get all the dust out of the room. Good luck.
800 grit is still very coarse and scratchy on a hard surface. In my experience you’ll need to go down to about 2000 or 2500 grit to get a smooth Matt surface which is also hygienic. Halfords do a polishing pack of wet and dry which would do you or it’s available online.
That’s good to know - I have 1500 grit but that’s it. I’ll be testing this out a few times before the main pour. Wet and dry is the way to go I think too
Treat yourself to some silicone jugs for mixing your resin as any remaining epoxy is super easy to remove so you can reuse it, also definitely treat yourself to a car paint buffer kit and a great selection of super fine wet and dry up to 5000 sandpaper this will really help, sanding, then using cutting compound and buffing will really give the best finish. Plus you get to use it again when you paint the outside of the boat 😉🤗
The resin looks pretty tricky to use but I think you are on top of it. And if you are going to buff it down to a duller finish it'll probably look perfect. I think the dust particles in the first coat are probably 90% just from the bare wood (especially being picked up from the routed out channel). The second thicker pour may well come out much less contaminated. How are you going to get enough on the edges? Good luck with it all.... thank god for the bigger brush!
It's likely too late to suggest this, but general clean up (vacuuming) of the area, would help prevent dust infiltration, also as part of your prep work, especially for the top (visible) surfaces, "tack cloths" would help in removing dust from the panels, before applying the resin? ;-)
your working it to much James, pour it, spread it, leave it. then blow torch quickly to get rid of the bubbles. work quickly then leave the boat so you don't disturb the air. Also you need to totally clean the boat then leave it for a day to settle the dust.
@@jcgreen926 I think you’re right but I’m not 100% sure - they don’t feel like air bubbles tbh but I’m coming to use a blow torch for sure - got a few more practices before the main pour Thanks
Did you see the 'dressed fleas' in the museum? I went there when I was at school in Tring over sixty years ago and I believe they are still there! Good work. Regards, Doug
Routing inside? Why can't you put it on the towpath.... do it outside? Doing it inside, the dust will just be in the air inside the boat and settle on your wet epoxy.
Hi James. Fabulous build and brilliant attention to detail too. May I suggest that for the epoxy finish, you build a clean room area with polythene, just big enough to work in and vacuum the floor prior to applying the resin, including a small area to stand on before entering. There is a lot of air contamination at the moment due to the various sanding, sawing and related work. Also keep an un-opened cover all inside this area which you can put on before starting work in there. Good luck with this job as it’s going to be the focal point of the whole build. Keep the videos coming as I can’t wait to see the finished job.
Yes my plan is to shield the area after lots of cleaning. Once the resin is down I was going to arrange a cover so no dust can fall on it during the cure
Авто/Мото
James get some painters tack cloths. To wipe your surface down. Just before you apply your resin. The floor damp it down. To prevent dust being kicked up. Whilst you're working. Hope this helps.
Funny, I spotted this after I added my comment. ;-D
@@TairnKA Me too. Great minds, and all that stuff. 😉
Yeah great tip about damping everything
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt Can't humidity effect epoxy?
It's dust, James.
Hoover the boat from stem to stern, including the ceiling and walls, then wipe the board down with proper tack cloth, before applying the resin.
This is why proper paint shops have sealed rooms with fans and air filters. Just you, moving around, is shedding skin flakes and dust from your clothes. Get some of those disposable overalls.
Good luck for the top coats.
I know it’s dust not air bubbles - I’m going to try to hoover and clean everything many times - keep movements to a minimum and stay off the boat. I’ll cover the piece once the resin is down and leave it
Your supposed to use a heat gun to pop the bubbles then sand it all down when its dry then polish it up
Doing the underside, is a test on what has to be done on the top, he'll see? ;-)
That's why you should do passenger side auto body repairs first, for practice.
Always use a small blow torch on resin bubbles , gone in no time James
If you’re going to be sanding down the resin, I would recommend doing a second coat so you don’t sand through it. Also remember to wear that respirator when you were sanding the resin. Probably a good idea to start with a lower grit, sandpaper and work your way up, but not too high to keep that matte finish. Good luck!
The top coat is going to be about a mm thick so I hopefully won’t sand through it
A second d coat would then make it glossy again
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt what I mean is add a second coat before you start sanding to increase the thickness.
Resin can be wet sanded once it's thoroughly dry if you get dust motes and want to smooth the final surface. Looking good James.
Yeah I’ll be testing this - thanks
At least this the bottom. And you know what needs to be done for the tops. Don’t quit now.😊
I’m certainly not going to quit. I just hope that my test pieces come out better
Some of your power tools like the track saw have hoover attachments.... If you attach a hoover with a long hose then that will catch some dust at source.
Or, like someone else suggested already, do the sawing and routing outside.
There’s no more sawing to be done until the resin is on so I’m just going to clean and clean again.
I did try the hoover hose on the router but it was nearly impossible to see or use
I would also put plastic dust sheet 'curtains' /'airlocks' in the door ways to stop the spread of sawdust from the other parts of the boat.
Follow all the previous cleaning advice and also very important, once you have finished the coating build a tent of plastic sheeting over the whole project. There is a huge amount of airborne dust around falling on the still wet coating.
You need a much better dust free environment to get a good finish on the top.
Get enough plastic dust sheets to create a tent around your working area (including ceiling and floor!) and disposable coveralls (ideally two sets, one for each worktop).
Do all the prep, routing and sanding, then hoover. Spray around with a fine mister (this traps dust particles floating in the air). Leave to dry. Tape the plastic sheets around your working area, leaving an overlapping curtain entrance. Clean the top surface of the piece you're going to work on, put on the coveralls and move the piece inside the tent. Now you're ready to pour.
Yeah that’s exactly what my plan is - what it will look like I’m still yet to discover
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt Good luck!
A wet sand followed by a buffer will polish that up nicely.
I’m going to try this
That is looking really good James, the only advice I can give regarding resin is try warming it up before mixing it.I used it years ago in my work and we kept it at temperature whilst mixing and pouring.
I’m working at around 20 Celsius which should be ok for the resin to cure in time
The heat gun might not be needed for bubbles. But thinking it will help the resin flow and level off smoother.
A hair drier on a cool setting is used to help the resin flow level without encouraging a premature cure
Those four inch roller sponges are good, use them on there own as you would a brush no actually not with a roller handle.
That routing is rough as.
Yeah I know - sorry
Keeping a clean and organized workplace is essential when poring resins.
Yeah I’m getting there
If you are doing a dark or opaque apoxy then you can use car body filler on the edges sanded back for a strong smooth edge or you can make a faux stone edge by slapping it on and sanding back the high spots. Nice effects can be acheived.
Yeah I’m not too keen on the faux edge for this piece - I’ve seen it done and it can look pretty cool
Hi James when your doing your Epoxy top when you have finished applying it, when it's still wet run a blow touch over the top and it will pop any little bubbles and it will level out before it sets. This can also be done on the edges when you let it roll over if needed. Doing a great job we love your videos I watch it with my wife 👍
Hi Jason
Thanks for the tips which I’ll defo be doing when I do the tops
Good luck for next stage of the resin tc now the oldies👍👍
Thanks - I’ll need all the luck I can get I reckon
Looking good. You should put the black pigment in before the hardener as it will give you a bit more time before it goes hard. Put the hardener in last.
It needs the hardener to make it easier to mix - the resin and pigment alone are really gloopy
I always go over with a heat gun to get the air bubbles out
Yeah I’ll be doing that too
Hi james, i used to work with Epoxy on a much smaller scale when doing my art but apply heat a small handheld blow torch to it after you pour it on to erradicate the air bubbles. 😊
Thanks I will be doing that
Holy shit, James especially for a first attempt, that is seriously impressive! Certainly bodes well for the rest of it.
Good comment - thanks
Use a blow torch after you laid it to get air bubbles out
Yeah I will be doing that
Need a blow torch to blow the bubbles out
Yep on it
Don’t burn it though….Resin can be a world of pain.
I did a lot of art work with it.
Weighing the solution gives you the wrong formula ,it’s by volume not weight - the hardener is heavier than resin….. I can’t remember, you need to look it up.
The final finish will be softer otherwise.
The room needs to be scrupulously clean I built a tent over the work.
You will never get all the dust out of the room.
Good luck.
800 grit is still very coarse and scratchy on a hard surface. In my experience you’ll need to go down to about 2000 or 2500 grit to get a smooth Matt surface which is also hygienic. Halfords do a polishing pack of wet and dry which would do you or it’s available online.
That’s good to know - I have 1500 grit but that’s it. I’ll be testing this out a few times before the main pour. Wet and dry is the way to go I think too
The router cutters will burn when blunt clean back of cutter looking great
good vid good see you get lot do on the done keep the good vid you do thanks lee
Treat yourself to some silicone jugs for mixing your resin as any remaining epoxy is super easy to remove so you can reuse it, also definitely treat yourself to a car paint buffer kit and a great selection of super fine wet and dry up to 5000 sandpaper this will really help, sanding, then using cutting compound and buffing will really give the best finish. Plus you get to use it again when you paint the outside of the boat 😉🤗
We were at the Natural History Museum in Tring today!
Oh wow
Small world
Fairly vigorously! Watch out for splinters!😂😂
I’ve picked up a few nasty splinters on this
thanks for sharing
Hi James such an epic job, miss you guys already, hope to see you soon , take care mate……. Sweary Dan😀
Ahh bless you mate
Miss you too - we’ll drive up and visit you very soon
👍
The resin looks pretty tricky to use but I think you are on top of it. And if you are going to buff it down to a duller finish it'll probably look perfect. I think the dust particles in the first coat are probably 90% just from the bare wood (especially being picked up from the routed out channel). The second thicker pour may well come out much less contaminated. How are you going to get enough on the edges? Good luck with it all.... thank god for the bigger brush!
It's likely too late to suggest this, but general clean up (vacuuming) of the area, would help prevent dust infiltration, also as part of your prep work, especially for the top (visible) surfaces, "tack cloths" would help in removing dust from the panels, before applying the resin? ;-)
Not too late at all - well it is for the last two sides but I’ve got 2 more undercoats to do and then the two top coats so thanks for the tips
Love your boat
👍👌❤️🇨🇦, gr8 stuff
💜💙💚
your working it to much James, pour it, spread it, leave it. then blow torch quickly to get rid of the bubbles. work quickly then leave the boat so you don't disturb the air. Also you need to totally clean the boat then leave it for a day to settle the dust.
Yeah I saw that on the edit. I’m painting it on rather than pouring it on. Thanks
Those are air bubbles in the surface get a heat gun and go over the surface with the heat gun to pop the air bubbles out.
@@jcgreen926 I think you’re right but I’m not 100% sure - they don’t feel like air bubbles tbh but I’m coming to use a blow torch for sure - got a few more practices before the main pour
Thanks
as others have said the heat gun / blow torch should help get rid of bubbles , its not like there`s a downside to it
Yeah I’ll doing this for sure
Did you see the 'dressed fleas' in the museum?
I went there when I was at school in Tring over sixty years ago and I believe they are still there!
Good work.
Regards,
Doug
Dressed as Mexicans if memory serves, also 60+ years ago.
Those things freak me out
You could have single plug sockets on that back board but turn them on their side.
Yeah I know but I don’t like the sight of sockets not correctly installed
Apply heat to get rid of the bubbles
Yeah I’ll use a blow torch
2nd Comment, great job James.
Routing inside? Why can't you put it on the towpath.... do it outside? Doing it inside, the dust will just be in the air inside the boat and settle on your wet epoxy.
It’s a heavy piece to be moving it onto the tow path - I just need to clean better
you'll get a more even, level coat by pouring the resin then spread it out with a notched trowel instead of using a brush
Yeah I’ll be doing that on the main pour definitely
could you put your sockets in upside down ?or at the side of the units ? the side walls .
I’ll have to put them somewhere else - I can’t have them upside down
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt on the side of your units ? you know , at the ends of them .
James you can put your plugs upside down then they will work.
Lots of people are saying that - but I won’t like the look of that
I’ll move them
Hi James. Fabulous build and brilliant attention to detail too. May I suggest that for the epoxy finish, you build a clean room area with polythene, just big enough to work in and vacuum the floor prior to applying the resin, including a small area to stand on before entering. There is a lot of air contamination at the moment due to the various sanding, sawing and related work. Also keep an un-opened cover all inside this area which you can put on before starting work in there. Good luck with this job as it’s going to be the focal point of the whole build. Keep the videos coming as I can’t wait to see the finished job.
Yes my plan is to shield the area after lots of cleaning. Once the resin is down I was going to arrange a cover so no dust can fall on it during the cure
You can also use a blow lamp to reduce the bubbles in the resin.
Should of watched flog first lol
Yeah I’ll be doing that
James lay off the snow fella . Your gonna blow a gasket .
James....solution to the plugs in the splash back.....Put them in upside down....just a thought.