A lot of work done in this video. You could have made at least 10 videos detailing all of the mods done in this one. It would took you more time and a lot more work to film it all and I guess you are more interested in a working car then making videos. Congrats and respect you sure made a lot more filming then me.
That's sort of true. Most of the stuff I didn't record because I thought it was mundane. I usually start recording when I'm doing something more interesting
Ive just got to say i found you today and ive loved all the vids ive watched so far. You should make more content more often. Unlike other car mechanics youtubers your actually an authentic backyard mechanic and knowledgeable of what your doing. Not like the others who either got no clue what theyre talking about or own a actual shop and have all these expensive ass tools that most backyard mechanics just cant afford. Props to you
Thanks. I've always done things the old school way out of necessity; when I made this video I was still in college taking auto mechanics. the expensive specialty tools we had there definitely made things easier. but with some creativity you get get things done the same way, albeit with more effort..
hey man I'm a huge fan of your content! haven't seen one person modify a Sundance the way you did and honestly I think you're a really underrated channel.
I want to work as an engineer on the RR and I signed up for an automotive class next year (that’s the closest I could get to it) and I’ll definitely be using some of your “strategies” here.
6:21 lol it do be like that I remember finding this channel when you first started posting the sundance. That was a different Account and you popped back up in my recommended again a year or so later. In my top 10 favorite RUclips channels. You're awesome.
Man these are amazing, your humor is wonderful and the way your videos are editing keep them entertaining. Feel like I learn so much in such a short video. Love the videos. Hope your week is going well.
Oh man. Possibly the first manual swap on a 'slow' car to not gain anything in the 1/4 mile. Im impressed, lol. But hey the first manual car i REALLY drove a lot was the dodge aries i did this exact swap to, so maybe the 1/4 mile (or 1/8th) result is 'pending driver acclimaton'. Also quite likely that the manual swap shows more gain in the 'the big half' than the 1/8th. When i manual swapped my TBI Aries it went from ~20.0 1/4 to ~17.2. Cool vid.
I have made that exact same spline mistake when i replaced my volvo v70 clutch. I spent hours on it and when i finally got the correct clutch plate it went in on the first try. Made me so mad lol.
Awesome progress, man! It looks gorgeous. Instead of the throttle cutoff, I would suggest trying eliminating the BOV and see how your ET's look. Dodge didn't use a BOV in the T1 or T2 2.2's, and I don't run one on my intercooled 2.5. I also took it off on my 16V Spirit R/T. The backpressure on these turbos isn't too bad. Eliminating the BOV helped me a lot with shift duration (and with the painfully slow spool-up time on the Spirit R/T).
Thanks! My turbo is a twin scroll from the Mitsubishi Evo 8, so It's a little bit different. I would rather have a blow off valve just to make sure the turbo lasts as long as possible. Flat foot shifting is pretty much the best way to keep your turbo spooled between shifts without the use of anti-lag, since air never stops flowing through the engine.
@@Whats-It-To-Ya I have three Spirit R/T's, and the turbo winds up sllloooowwwww.... It's like a freight train when it does. On the other hand, it's not too different from the delay and lag in most high-revving NA V6's, so I'm not sure what to complain about, haha
@@benjaminvanderjagt it's hard to remember things accurately because I have an autoimmune disorder but I believe my Daytona was hitting full boost at 2900 rpm. I've added a larger downpipe and modified my Mopar intake from my '89 Shelby and modified the arm and added a heavier spring. Now, it spools around 2200 rpm with a little more boost as well. The ideal thing would be to add shorter gears and shave the head to up the compression to make the turbo spool faster, but I'm not going to because these motors are hard to find, even though I have two spares that I rebuilt a few years ago just waiting for a car to put them in. One is going into my beloved '86 Turbo Z and I'm searching high and low for a two-door Aries for the second motor but can't find one. An Aries wagon would work too, sleeper car. I have two spare trannys and axles and such too. Computers too. I basically stripped a totaled Spirit r/t at the salvage yard and bought a totaled Daytona r/t for peanuts because these parts are hard to find. I might actually sell my Shelby to make room for another r/t but I basically have the whole Mopar catalog into that Shelby motor, including the super 60 kit and it'll blow the doors off my r/t without even trying.
Should've just pulled a turbo 2 motor, manual trans, axles and computer and dropped it in over the course of a week. Slapping a turbo on these non-turbo motors is a huge mistake. The blocks are extremely weak and it WILL throw a rod. A turbo 2 motor with a full three inch exhaust and 18 pounds of boost will get you into the 13's easily with decent traction and a little weight redux. I've been messing with Dodge turbo cars for two decades and I know them inside and out. The Shelby Daytona axles are the strongest and you'll want them among with strong motor mounts if you're going to be pounding on that car on a regular basis.
The intake manifold, transmission, rods and pistons are from turbo cars. From what I saw you can't really find rebuild kits for the old turbochargers, so if I blew one up I wouldn't have a new one for a while. Plus I got a good deal on the EVO 8 turbo.
@@HatersGarage that's cool and did not know if you could maybe copy the way the stock turbo has the piping routed and or maybe the relocated the power sterring pump with a different Bracket
@@jasonhopkins3010 Sadly I cant really copy the stock turbo pipe routing because if where the turbo itself is, I thought of relocating the steering pump, but decided it just wasn't worth the time. I got a manual steering rack from a Dodge Omni that I hope to install instead.
@@HatersGarage The Mitsubishi is pretty easy to rebuild, so if you're content limited to about 15PSI, it's a good option. I've killed plenty of Garrett's, but I've never killed a Mitsu. The TE04H uses the same rebuild kit as the TD04.
You probably already figured it out by now 1983 Dodge Omni manual rack and then change inner tie rod ends that's what I did on my 1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby
A lot of work done in this video. You could have made at least 10 videos detailing all of the mods done in this one. It would took you more time and a lot more work to film it all and I guess you are more interested in a working car then making videos. Congrats and respect you sure made a lot more filming then me.
That's sort of true. Most of the stuff I didn't record because I thought it was mundane. I usually start recording when I'm doing something more interesting
Ive just got to say i found you today and ive loved all the vids ive watched so far. You should make more content more often. Unlike other car mechanics youtubers your actually an authentic backyard mechanic and knowledgeable of what your doing. Not like the others who either got no clue what theyre talking about or own a actual shop and have all these expensive ass tools that most backyard mechanics just cant afford. Props to you
Thanks. I've always done things the old school way out of necessity; when I made this video I was still in college taking auto mechanics. the expensive specialty tools we had there definitely made things easier. but with some creativity you get get things done the same way, albeit with more effort..
hey man I'm a huge fan of your content! haven't seen one person modify a Sundance the way you did and honestly I think you're a really underrated channel.
Thanks! I'm always trying to do something different. I don't think the car has quite reached "sleeper" status yet, but it's getting closer.
I want to work as an engineer on the RR and I signed up for an automotive class next year (that’s the closest I could get to it) and I’ll definitely be using some of your “strategies” here.
Greases shifter, proceeds to toss directly into dirt.... I love this guy! 😆
6:21 lol it do be like that
I remember finding this channel when you first started posting the sundance. That was a different Account and you popped back up in my recommended again a year or so later. In my top 10 favorite RUclips channels. You're awesome.
Thanks. I'm planning big things for the Sundance, it's gonna get crazier and crazier
Man these are amazing, your humor is wonderful and the way your videos are editing keep them entertaining. Feel like I learn so much in such a short video. Love the videos. Hope your week is going well.
Oh man. Possibly the first manual swap on a 'slow' car to not gain anything in the 1/4 mile. Im impressed, lol. But hey the first manual car i REALLY drove a lot was the dodge aries i did this exact swap to, so maybe the 1/4 mile (or 1/8th) result is 'pending driver acclimaton'. Also quite likely that the manual swap shows more gain in the 'the big half' than the 1/8th. When i manual swapped my TBI Aries it went from ~20.0 1/4 to ~17.2. Cool vid.
You're like the Neatmike of car repair. Vids are great
I have made that exact same spline mistake when i replaced my volvo v70 clutch. I spent hours on it and when i finally got the correct clutch plate it went in on the first try. Made me so mad lol.
Awesome progress, man! It looks gorgeous. Instead of the throttle cutoff, I would suggest trying eliminating the BOV and see how your ET's look. Dodge didn't use a BOV in the T1 or T2 2.2's, and I don't run one on my intercooled 2.5. I also took it off on my 16V Spirit R/T. The backpressure on these turbos isn't too bad. Eliminating the BOV helped me a lot with shift duration (and with the painfully slow spool-up time on the Spirit R/T).
Thanks! My turbo is a twin scroll from the Mitsubishi Evo 8, so It's a little bit different. I would rather have a blow off valve just to make sure the turbo lasts as long as possible. Flat foot shifting is pretty much the best way to keep your turbo spooled between shifts without the use of anti-lag, since air never stops flowing through the engine.
I have a '92 Daytona iroc r/t and yes, the stock turbo took forever and a day to show signs of life
@@Whats-It-To-Ya I have three Spirit R/T's, and the turbo winds up sllloooowwwww.... It's like a freight train when it does. On the other hand, it's not too different from the delay and lag in most high-revving NA V6's, so I'm not sure what to complain about, haha
@@benjaminvanderjagt it's hard to remember things accurately because I have an autoimmune disorder but I believe my Daytona was hitting full boost at 2900 rpm. I've added a larger downpipe and modified my Mopar intake from my '89 Shelby and modified the arm and added a heavier spring. Now, it spools around 2200 rpm with a little more boost as well. The ideal thing would be to add shorter gears and shave the head to up the compression to make the turbo spool faster, but I'm not going to because these motors are hard to find, even though I have two spares that I rebuilt a few years ago just waiting for a car to put them in. One is going into my beloved '86 Turbo Z and I'm searching high and low for a two-door Aries for the second motor but can't find one. An Aries wagon would work too, sleeper car. I have two spare trannys and axles and such too. Computers too. I basically stripped a totaled Spirit r/t at the salvage yard and bought a totaled Daytona r/t for peanuts because these parts are hard to find. I might actually sell my Shelby to make room for another r/t but I basically have the whole Mopar catalog into that Shelby motor, including the super 60 kit and it'll blow the doors off my r/t without even trying.
@@Whats-It-To-Ya By strange coincidence, there's a T3 long block and an Aries Wagon in my garage right now! O_O Don't give me any crazy ideas, haha!
W
W
12:34
Intake location maybe
6:08
Round peg in a square hole anyone?
Should've just pulled a turbo 2 motor, manual trans, axles and computer and dropped it in over the course of a week. Slapping a turbo on these non-turbo motors is a huge mistake. The blocks are extremely weak and it WILL throw a rod. A turbo 2 motor with a full three inch exhaust and 18 pounds of boost will get you into the 13's easily with decent traction and a little weight redux. I've been messing with Dodge turbo cars for two decades and I know them inside and out. The Shelby Daytona axles are the strongest and you'll want them among with strong motor mounts if you're going to be pounding on that car on a regular basis.
Man love what you are doing, can't wait to see more. Have you tried looking for any dodge shadow turbo parts at all?
The intake manifold, transmission, rods and pistons are from turbo cars. From what I saw you can't really find rebuild kits for the old turbochargers, so if I blew one up I wouldn't have a new one for a while. Plus I got a good deal on the EVO 8 turbo.
@@HatersGarage that's cool and did not know if you could maybe copy the way the stock turbo has the piping routed and or maybe the relocated the power sterring pump with a different Bracket
@@jasonhopkins3010 Sadly I cant really copy the stock turbo pipe routing because if where the turbo itself is, I thought of relocating the steering pump, but decided it just wasn't worth the time. I got a manual steering rack from a Dodge Omni that I hope to install instead.
@@HatersGarage man that sucks. But cool you that you found a manual rack thar might work good luck with that.
@@HatersGarage The Mitsubishi is pretty easy to rebuild, so if you're content limited to about 15PSI, it's a good option. I've killed plenty of Garrett's, but I've never killed a Mitsu. The TE04H uses the same rebuild kit as the TD04.
You probably already figured it out by now 1983 Dodge Omni manual rack and then change inner tie rod ends that's what I did on my 1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby
Yes I did. The omni rack actually bolted right up to my Sundance, just had to drill the mounting holes a little bigger.