Transmission Service DIY for BMW ZF8 Transmissions (HP50, HP51, HP70, HP76)
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- **Make sure the engine is running while doing the final fluid level check**
Torque Specs:
Oil Drain Plug: 8Nm
Oil Filler Plug: 35Nm
Oil Pan Screws: 4Nm+45*
Part Numbers:
Trans Pan Kit (Pan+:Screws): 24118612901
Trans Pan Screws: 24117552108
Fill Plug: 24117552349
I used Lifeguard 8 Automatic Transmission Fluid. Others recommendations for upgraded fluid includes Adrenaline ATF Racing Fluid or Amsoil Signature Series ATF.
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UPDATE: Make sure the engine is running when you check your fluid levels. I was able to get an extra 1L in the car doing that method after driving it around and going through the gears. Hope this helps
Was going to ask as mine in a g20 took 6l ( more 5.5 because I used some to wash my pumps etc ) , had engine running, went trough gears and also did a 2000rpm for a few seconds to "fill torque converter" per ZF.
ah and a funny thing is that I got only 4l out of it and that was factory fill at 100k km
Here are some of my tips and thoughts, after having done this on several vehicles:
- ZF lists spec for the bolts on the plastic pan as 10 nM, 4.5+45 is for aluminum pan
- loosen the fill plug only, do not fully remove before draining, otherwise lots of fluid will come out of the fill plug
- When removing the pan after draining, drop the front (like you did) first so more oil comes out of the drain hole as you are removing the pan
- Make sure to check the oring on the filter came out with the old pan/filter and isnt stuck inside the transmission, otherwise there will be pressure issues
- ZF says filling sequence should actually be A) do initial fill, then close fill plug, B) start the car and do another fill until fluid comes out, C) wait until up to temp range and then do final fill, but lots of people skip step B
- ZF also says to run engine at 2000rpm for 30 seconds to fill up the torque converter and to hold each gear for 10 seconds once at temp window range
- After your initial fill, make sure the car is running and in park, if you shut the car off, a ton of fluid will come out your fill hole and you wont have the right fill
- ZF says you are at the right level when single drips are coming out of the fill hole, not a large stream
thanks for the videos and have fun!
Thank you for clarifying this for the viewers that are not aware of the correct procedure.
You saved me from typing it.😊
Having changed the pan and fluids myself this is great advice. It took 3 fills for me to get to the correct level
probably a dumb question but does the vehicle need to be in drive or neutral or park for the 2000 rpm
@@matthewschaefer2678 Park would be best.
@@camluczithank you 🙏
Echoing some comments here, love your work Kern417, but will say there is some incorrect info on the fill procedure here. I studied the ZF formal document in detail, and basically it goes as follows.
1. Fill until spilling out of fill plug with engine off
2. Turn on engine, leave in park, fill again until spilling out of fill plug.
3. If you have a transmission oil cooler (like this 340i, add an extra 0.5L at this step, you can do this by just rapidly dispensing an extra 0.5L and closing fill plug.
4. Again if you have a transmission cooler, drive vehicle until the oil cooler valve opens (75 degrees C) (Yes it is quite specific about this)
5. Allow to cool back down.
6. Connect temp diagnostics
7. Start engine, verify between 30-50 degrees C
8. Rev motor to 2000 rpm to fill torque converter
9. Select P, R, and D, M1, M2, for 10 Seconds
10. Verify temp again
11. Open plug, until only single drops Fall, continue to verity temp. or fill if no drops at all.
12. End
Highly recommend ensuring you can loosen the fill opening before draining the fluid.
My understanding is that the final fill needs to be done WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. That is because the transmission fluid pump sucks a fair amount of fluid up out of the pan while running, and releases it when the engine stops. If the engine wasn't running when you filled it, that probably explains why you used only four liters of fluid. I strongly recommend checking again while the engine is running at temperature. I expect you will get at least another liter in there.
may try that later
This is correct, the engine needs to be running and in park, the temp can be as low as 30c no higher than 50c max. If you don't put around 6L to 6.5L of fluid back in this will affect shifting and if it's too low cause slipping or worse.
@@sutphintuning9085 copy. Will give it a shot this weekend
Yes, I made this mistake only yesterday. Turned the engine off every time I checked the level. I had a loud whin from the gearbox. Checked the level again with engine running and it took another 1.5l. It is perfect now.
@@thatsabadideaI can also confirm the 30c-50c range fill procedure. I made the mistake of ignoring it, ended up with a whining noise and subsequently scorched the torque converter along with everything else in the trans. A $7K mistake🙃 that I won't make again.
Thanks for a great vid.
A good habit is to ensure you can loosen the fill plug first, before draining your fluid.👍
Useful and helpful guide, thanks. As one or two others pointed out, make sure you final fill with engine running. And, so you don't get caught out, loosen fill plug before anything else!! Thanks My Hp50 in a m140i took 5 litres, which was pretty similar to what drained out. But I may try a follow up fill. Cheers
I SWEAR YOU ALWAYS MAKE A VIDEO FOR EVERYTHING I NEED. I have all the service parts for the trans and I was going to ask you if you can make a video on it.
Love that you kid was getting involved. Teach him young!
Just did this service on my Supra. I recommend following this procedure, but do one more hot fill after driving the vehicle and moving through all the gears. It's annoying, you'll have to drive the vehicle, let it cool, then bring it back up to fill temp. I found I needed more fluid. It also solved an issue where I had transmission slip/hesitation when cold
Thanks for being really consistent and precise with all the info involving the job all the way down to the order of tightening the screws on the pan and putting the Torque Specs in the description.
Great and informative DIY kern!
Only one recommendation is to open the fill plug first in the event you drain the fluid and can’t refill…
That's alright in this case, since the kit comes with a new fill plug if I understood correctly
No he’s saying to undue the full plug first to make sure it’s not seized rather than draining all the fluid and not being able to add fluid because of seized plug. Prevents you from having a car that’s stuck.
Great info
I bet it's a joy having a son that's interested in helping you with the build. My youngest daughter will only bring me water when I work on projects.
Lol i started him early so he's used to it. It can be a blessing and a curse when i really need to get something done quickly 😅
@@kern417 I hear you! I only have daughters 😪
Show them how a King moves so they aren't impressed by some dude's ratted out hatch 😎
Have a son and daughter. Son never interested in auto mechanics. Daughter is right in there with me helping. All depends on the child, now both adults. Son is getting better at hands on but missed on years of exposure. Now he is moved away and learning on his own.
Nice work but you forget one thing: changing the sealing sleeve inside the mechatronic unit. Don't forget that because the one in there might have some kind of pressure/oil leak and the gearbox will slip/jerk. Also after the work is done, reset the adaptations in ISTA or other smartphone app that allows it. If you don't have it, disconnect the battery for 30mins, that will do it.
This dropped right on time 🙏
This is exactly what I needed before I install my daw 2.5 on my 440.
Thank you so very much, Sir. Clear, concise instructions, absolutely invaluable. Again, thank you so very much and if you can keep these instructional videos coming.. i’m actually becoming a pretty good mechanic because of you👍👍
Thanks man, as always full of good practices. You just saved a lot of people a bunch of money!
STEP ONE: make sure you can get the FILL plug off BEFORE you drain any fluids - on any service. If you can't get the fill plug off, then you just drained all the fluid and the car is essentially dead in the water.
Another solid video. Thank you
As someone pointed out, you did need to run the car and then refill again.
Also what i would recommend, before draining the oil, make sure you can undo the fill plug to confirm youre able to refill it. 😂
Great video for the most popular ZF transmission. I have an SQ5 that I just did this exact service at 70k miles and was starting to get sluggish shifts from drive to reverse and visa versa. Don't believe the "lifetime fluid" b.s. they sell you. I have a friend with a 335i with 130k miles when his ZF with original fluids, grenaded on him.
Btw- great tutorial on training your little protégé 😅
The B58 🐐!
You should remove the oil line from transmission to your oil cooler and blow out the oil thats in there. You'll end up using two more bottles of oil
Excellent 🤙🏻…. please make a video on how to make a Coolant Flush ,, please
Thanks a lot for this DIY
Should always loosen the fill plug first to make sure u can refil...l
This is funny. I've had such good luck with these cars, I stopped thinking that way 😂 but thats fair.
Lol, sorry, just posted the same.
Thanks for the visit.👍
Good stuff!
Awesome
More from your assistant please 😂
He's in there more than I am nowadays
I was going to do this on my 440i soon, so this video is perfect timing! Also, your exhaust isn’t attached on the hanger on the transmission 🙈
shhhhh
I think the extra 3L fluid is used when you do a complete flush
Viewers should search for ZF's transmission service docs and follow the correct procedures, several of which were not done, or were done incorrectly in this video. New transmissions are expensive.
Hola, podria decirme donde esta la palanca para poder poner el cambio en neutral? Gracias
Do not reset adaptions when doing this. I did on my n54 and ended up needing a trans 3k miles later.
Absolutely. Adaptations should never be reset unless the transmission internals were rebuilt
i did this to my 340 with 72 miles on it, never been done before, only filled 4l so have 3l leftovers, now it feels like the car shifts wierd, in manual mode it downshift as it did before, but upshifting is insanely slow.. over 1.2 sec, do i need to do some adaption reset? like the one carly have gotten now? or shudd i try fill even more oil?😮💨 been driving around 180km now and still the same
my gf x3 shifts faster and thats all stock, i got xhp stage 3
i got bimmerlink but dont see transmission temperature for 08 x5
I have the hp51x with 70k kms. Want to do this now as I just received my mhd unlocker and will go to stage 1. What is the actual torque limit of the transmission as officially its rated at 500Nm. Mine is a gen 2 2019 x3m40i and a stage 1 seems like my torque will increase to 580Nm
imagine swapping the 8hp76 swap on a 40i like they did with the supra mk5 !
👀
👀
Could you post a video on how to replace valvetronic motor on B58? I know it’s couple bolts but are there any adjustments that needs to be done after you swap the motor?
I'll add it to the list. No adjustments need to be made. The car automatically calibrates it.
You can also replace the same amount fluid that was removed.
not if the car won't take it
You remove the fluid at ambient temperature, so both old and new fluids have the same volume
not necessarily.
HI My bmw f10 535d 2016 with nearly 40.000 miles im toldi should change now as the car is over 6 years old
wouldn't hurt
What fluid do u recommend?
Lol emergency call malfunction gang
The adrenaline trans oil comes in a 1 gallon bottle I’d that all we’d need or more?
you'll want 2 gallons to be safe
i thought ZF8 told us not to do a trans service
depends on who you ask
Can you replace the filter in the aftermarket pan?
I haven't used an aftermarket pan so not sure
If you’ve done over 100k miles on original transmission oil DO NOT CHANGE THE OIL.
you can change it. just don't do a flush or any adaptation resets.
Kern417, I’m sorry I can’t remember your channel. I just keep putting in kernb58. Love your content.
No need to put a sealant when putting the new pan?
It has a gasket
@@kern417 awesome, something to keep in mind when doing that
My rcp euro kit came with liqui moly atf fluid.. would you recommend against this?
its top tec 1800 fluid
Should be fine
@@kern417 Okay thank you. I love the content! You give great descriptions and save me a lot of time and money. I had the transmission service kit waiting in my garage for months and was waiting till I had the confidence to do it. After watching this video I'm ready to get started 🤝
How often do you really need to change your transmission fluid??? Some people just love to spend money on unnecessary stuff sometimes.
8 yrs/ 62k miles is what ZF recommends. Since they manufacture the trans, I'll take their recommendation over BMW any day. Same thing with the differentials, ask BMW and they will tell you lifetime for that too so they don't have to include it in any of those extended maintenance plans they love to sell.
@@catman41155Or when it blows from not changing the fluid, that's the LIFETIME!😂 They then get to charge you $10k or more for a new transmission.
In time
Good vid. Lifetime fluid is bs, it's essentially the lifetime of the warranty because it needs to be replaced every 50k miles on an auto transmission.
But there’s a TSB From ZF saying do not change the trans fluid unless you have issues.
Yeah I ain’t touching my transmission too risky
This is wrong and bad facts, do n8t follow.
Let’s see ur b58?
Shouldnt you vaccum bleed all the hose and stuff ?
no