Mercedes-Benz SLK230 Low/Rough Idle Problem Fixed/Solved
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- This video shows several different solutions to the low and/or rough idle that many vehicles have. Solutions will vary from vehicle to vehicle. This just happens to be a Mercedes SLK230 and the problem was the gas pedal position sensor, but other vehicles or even this vehicle may have the same symptoms but have a different solution.
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In this video we change:
1. Ignition coils
2. Coil wires and connectors
3. Egr vacuum switching solenoid valve
4. Gas pedal position sensor (drive by wire throttle control)
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2002 SLK 230
6 different lights have come On including the Speedometer is no longer working it's also on Limp Home Mode and will not shift to 3rd gear the rest of the lights on the instrument cluster are:
1) Brake (in red)
2) ABS
3) ESP
What would cause all of these at once I've already changed the disk brakes and pads, fuel pump, filter,
water pump .
I have the same car 99 slk230 but my car won't start, when I put the key in and turn sometimes it will just turn over but it won't start, I already replace the starter and the crank position sensor and nothing. I need some help here brother, any idea what might be????
I will appreciate your help
@@victorvictor8587 Have the alternator tested.
@@louierodriguez9974 Nope.
@@samuelaguirre9116 Check fuel pressure. could be the fuel pump. You should read the trouble shooting chapter in my book. The link is above.
Mine keeps lowering and raising the “idle” when cruise is engaged it speeds up a little slows down a little bit constant. Super annoying. Also rough idle. I’m so happy for this video.
One of the most common vacuum leaks that can cause this is loose intake hose clamps, check and tighten those and you may be done ;)
Thank you Sir!!
Cheers mate, I learned a lot today. My SLK230 engine stutters and I am about to clean the MAF. Sparks and Air filter changed already. Hopes that will solved it. Hope to see some more Vids of your nice car...
Just to let u know. I solved my engine performance problem today. The exhaust was damaged, only the end part of it. Replaced it by a Powersprint exhaust, not the original MB, around 400 bugs. Now it runs as it used to be.
Many thanks Clint . Had a problem with my slk loosing power and missing when I put my foot down . Under 3000 revs was OK but above nothing till you lifted foot . Found maf sensor had a bit of oil around it so took it out sprayed it with electrical contact cleaner and now back to normal. I thought the air con needed re gassing but after this it went back to working again !!! Thanks for sharing your info : )
Would it be intermediate and did the throttle feel less touchy before you cleaned it
@@jusprankstv9278 Sorry mate. Can't remember exactly as four years ago now just remember that once the problem was there it didn't go away that I remember but once the mag sensor was sorted it completely cleared the problem and ran fine for another two and a half years when the gearbox gave up for the second time! Was a great car.
@@jusprankstv9278 typo MAF sensor
I bet that was a great feeling when you finally nailed it down!
Yep! lol :)
That was a long , head scratching journey into the unknown. Anyone who has tried fault finding their auto will emphatise with your predicament. Had the same experience trying to remedy a front end rattle that is still there. Frustrating would be an understatement. However it was not all bad news as a lot of them components would need replacing anyway. Let's face it, when the car is not performing, it's like a close relation getting ill. The night's sleep is never the same.
I just watched a couple of your video's. I have a 1998 SLK 230, having same problem. Your video's are very very helpful. Thank you so much'
🤣 I was about to stop the video when he said I lied... I been cleaning my maf sensor to deal with this every summer.
Hello and thank you for the video. It would have been great to hear the rough idle beforehand, there are lots of clues as to whether it's electrical or fuel for diagnosis purposes.
You can try the K40 relay. Cost me 6$ for a soldering iron, and about a half an hour to fix. Very simple
Yes, I have done the K40 repair twice.
Great videos, very much appreciated. Cheers from new zealand.
Thanks you sir is good repair
2:20 "Oh no, brittle" 😂😂
lol Not to worry, I replaced it, I should have made a video of that lol :)
@@Engineerboy100 Hey Clint: Don't worry about breaking brittle clips or fasteners. It happens all the time. Where did you get your connector? Need to replace one (LOL) that I also broke when trying to remove one of my air ducts on an SLK. Some have mentioned a website called Clips & Fasteners or something like that. Haven't tried them yet. Any advice would help out. Thanks.
I have same problem, thank you.
Hey Clint: Another good video from you. Nice job.
Don't worry about changing lots of parts. It happens. Sometimes troubleshooting points to something that is not the problem, but the part is old and probably needs replacing anyway. Stuff happens. I know, done it myself.
I also have an R170 MB. And I am having some problems as well.
Questions: Do you have a MB Service Manual? So far, I did not get one. YET. Because some of this maintenance or parts changing really needs some manual or instructions. Any recommendations on which manual to get for a similar MB?
Also it was very good that you listed your where you got your parts and tools.
What do you recommend for good quality spark plug wires? (besides the dealer $$$$). NGK? Bosch? Warner?
How about your coils (which brand do you recommend)? Or spark plugs?
My 2004 SLK is NOT passing inspection right now. Trying to find my problem within the next 3 weeks or so.
Thanks.
are you applying the dielectric grease on all the connectors or on the ones having contact with the spark plugs?
Dielectric grease does not go on the metal part of the connector, its job is to insulate, lubricate and protect from corrosion. The insulation component of dielectric grease is to keep stray current from arching and shorting to grounds. So put it on all rubber portions of our connectors that attach to the plugs or the coils and get as little on the actual metal as possible. The lubrication component is to make is easier to remove later so the rubber doesn't stick to the plug or coil when you want to take the wires off.
Clint great video. I feel you i the part replacement. I’m on the path right now. My issue is the car runs fine for about 30 min. But if I’m making a lot of stops. And in the road for more than 30 min I’ll start stalking at red lights. To keep it from stalling I have to keep one foot on the gas to keep it at 1k rpm, which works great. Mine is a Mercedes 2002 c230 kompressor. And I don’t see that cable you fixed. Any idea if there is something like that on my car?
Sounds like your fuel pump is failing or your fuel filter is clogged, I would change both.
Can you please post links to all the parts you worked on and replaced ?
Clint, thanks for making the video. Did you have a problem with the car sometimes feeling like it was loosing power, or near stalling and throbbing when you were stopped in traffic and maybe sometimes stalling? I just changed out the fuel pumps on my old S320, and was about to rewire the ETA (electronic Throttle Actuator) harness but when I cut into it it looks perfect. So I'm wondering if my problem which sounds similar to yours (first started thinking it was low on fuel getting delivered). Thanks.
Good job. So is the throttle pedal pulling from this steel cable and the sensor is that part you replace at the moment instead of being embedded on the pedal?
I don't understand your question exactly...
In most modern cars, the throttle pedal position sensor is on the pedal assembly itself, so there is not steel cable going from the pedal to the engine compartment, thus eliminating some of the parts. My question was if this sensor you have replaced at the end is the position sensor and it is moved by the throttle pedal. I think that's the case.
Hi Clint Hightower my accelerator pedal is very heavy and hard, What could it be
very informative good info
Ok tank you for expérience this vidéos from you
Hi Clint,
I'm selling my 1998 SLK230 and buying a 2004 with 35,000 miles. Any tips on what to watch out for on the later model?
I don't know of anything off hand, usually when I'm looking for issues with a prospective car, I start out by doing a search on Google of the model vehicle and the word problems.
Hi Clint, GREAT video! I have the issue that my SLK 230 1999 moves up and down when at idle and it shakes lightly every 5-10 sec. Any suggestions? Sparks, filter etc just got replaced.
O2 sensors???
@@Engineerboy100 I have already replaced them…
Mass Air Flow Sensor needs cleaning.
Hi, i have missfire at 3rd cly in my 97’slk230. I have changed plugs, coils, cables,cps and maf sensor . nothing changed. Service tried all but they say its about ecu. Do you have any suggest about it? Or did you heard about same problem before?
Have it smoke tested for vacuum leaks. This is a commonly overlooked cause of misfires in shops.
@@Engineerboy100 yes they did.
Fuel injector clogged or injector seal failure.
TAM turn around maintenance
I saw a crank sensor do this on 98 volvo, tightened new one down and then all good, before it failed was acting up
Did you ever use a Scan tool, if so which make tool
We do have the same problem bro, but i have found out that theres water inside my tank, all cleaned out tho but it since then it fcuked up everything.. the only fault found is ignition coils but already changed it, it lessened but still there are hiccups like swaying at idle and goes down to 500rpm then go back again at normal rpm.. idk what to do now..
Thank you, it was very helpful. Could you please direct me to where I can find a solution for my misfiring on all 4 cylinders. I have a 1999 SLK230, with new coils, wires and plugs. I have replace some broken vacuum lines, but still misfires on all cylinders. I check my OBD daily. Thank you.
Harrison Kiernan mine is doing same. Did you find anything out?
Harry Kiernan maybe bit late but crankanglesensor is your thing
@@jarettlocklear2379 Nothing yet, and you? We even did a valve job.
@@92midhad Not too late. Thanks. Where do I find that part?
@@92midhad I just found some on Amazon. Thanks again.
Just found this video what fault code did you have? I have 2 slk's one manual one auto..
No codes just rough idle.
Thank you for sharing
It's ok that rpd drop from park to drive or reverse? Or it shoud drop then adjust itself? Some don't do it. I'm asking as buyer point of view. Thanks
No that is not ok for any car :o
Hey this is a long shot but I've been having a problem when I cold start my 98 slk 230 komp sometimes it backfired and fails to start but if I cycle the key twice is starts "a little rough but starts" and when its warm it starts perfectly fine..? If any of this make any sense and you might know I'd appreciate any tips. being that this video is from 2017 this is a long shot haha.
Hi. My 2003 slk230 komp sometimes has very similar issues with starting. Turns out the key is my issue, and I have to make sure the key goes in the same way each time and that key is slightly angled up in the ignition when starting, as opposed to just inserting the key and turning it. I'm ordering a new key fob from Merc, and considering a push start to remedy if the new key doesn't resolve the issue.
I like 🙂
I have the same floor mats.
Very cool, lol these mats are very practical :)
I also have an issue with rough idle on 99 c230
I cleaned the throttle body , changed the plugs and all wires and what you did on the video and also the spark plugs.
But when I am at the stop and the car is in gear is shaking and I haven’t been able to troubleshoot it .
The shaking is less though but I still have a rough idle. I feel the car is not running smooth .
What do you think it can be ?
Is the idle low as well, maybe try turning the idle up a quarter turn.
Clint Hightower
It’s not low it’s Rough
It shakes at the stop when I am holding the break in gear but when I put it in natural is great .
It’s a weirdest thing .
Ramin, if holding brake in Drive or reverse and the idle and the car vibrates. Transmission mount is likely gone bad. It is not a difficult job to replace, have it checked! Hope it helps.
Hello sir. I bought a 2000 Merc SLK 230 Kompressor with 193 hp Automatic. It drives without any problems, but when I stop, the engine keeps reving between 500 and 1000 rpm and the car is shaking, not too much but it is not normal. It doesn´t turn off though. What might be the issue? Can the car still be saved and will it be expensive? How much would it cost? Thank you for your help in advance
Yes it can be saved. The engines on these cars are bullet proof. How much will it cost, well that depends on two things, 1. how honest your mechanic is and 2. How good your mechanic is. for those two reasons, I am my mechanic. the revving could be a vacuum leak or the throttle just needs to be reset. I would start with resetting the throttle. Just turn the key on without turning on the engine. Leave it for 5 minutes or so then turn the key off and remove it. Then start the car and take if for a test drive. That might fix it.
@@Engineerboy100 Thank you for the answer. Indeed, that was what I assuming as well regarding the mechanic. It depends on how much labor cost they gonne add to the repair price (degree of how much they want to screw the customer. After all. the part costs cannot be that expensive, it´s the assembly and labor costs that´s probably gonna kill me, and of course how honest the mechanic will be. Anyway, tomorrow I´ll let them have a look and I´ll get back to you once they tell me what the proble is. Thx
My problèmes from my Mercedes SLK 230 kompressor problèmes allumage démarrage motor 700 tours motor accélération motor broute and fini panne you look this from my
hey Im having the same problem with my 1997 c230, same engine just without the supercharger... my idle stays around 750 and it drops to 500 when put in gear. I replaced most of the ignition components and then I noticed one of my boots where torn at the end. I just ordered another boot for cylinder 4 but should I order the same Throttle sensor as you did or is there another sensor i should order? I already replaced my maf sensor and as well I had to build another intake because my current one just did not work that good. I also ordered a valve cover gasket because I found oil in the ignition bay. Is there anything else you recommend ordering? Idk if it makes a difference but my car is imported from Germany.
If you haven't changed the transmission fluid in a while this can also cause the idle to go down when put I gear. If you car is a manual, disregard this.
@@Engineerboy100 I change the fluid every 30k miles and at the 50k I flush it. Any more tips?
i have a SLk 230 1999 ... recently i am noting after a stop in the red light, when i start to go again it hesitate to engage the gear ,,, and couple time i noticed that the engine ravs to a higher rpm and the gear does not want to engage . after i stop and restart the engine then it starts working
Transmission is slipping, change your transmission fluid and if it doesn't improve you're gonna need to have it checked out at a shop.
I have c240 model 2002 the car burn oil and smok suddenly ,i have only one. Fault p0400 exhaust gas recerculation. Plz help me.
hello friend, wanna see if you can help me, I have a slk230 but I failed, I changed almost everything I bought two camshaft and do not grab, and down the exhaust you hear a noise like air, the car does not advance more than 3 thousand rp, apart from the cmashaft the erro code is p0341
I'm not completely clear on what you're asking but it sounds like your timing may be off. Check the timing with a timing light, and adjust as needed.
camshaft sensor is bad for sure and it sounds like you might have your camshafts out of time if you changed them and didnt get them right.
25:24 What does the display on the speedometer with the little wrench mean when you start it up?
I believe the little wrench is the oil change service interval indicator. I never use it as my guide, I change the oil where I set the miles based on the oil I use. ie if I use a 7500 mile oil, I change the oil in 5000 miles.
Did you have a check engine light on or no?
No check engine light, just a rough idle.
@@Engineerboy100 Thanks. I think my motor mounts are bad because the vibration comes only when I put it in drive. On idle it is smooth.
Change the mass airflow sensor.
I guess you didn't watch the video to the end?!
Good
Thanks ,very informative
how do You get the cabel off myman? i dont want to break it haha
it just pops off with a little prying.
@@Engineerboy100 heyy i mamaged to get it off thanks! I was scared for a second lol. 20year old tps.
Hello Clint, i went to Mercedes dealer with my car , they said i need to replace the Selector shaft seal on the transmission. they quoted me 582 dollar. is it something that i can do ... please advise
What are the symptoms that you originally took the car in for?
ruclips.net/video/nVrXACP_buM/видео.html
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-auto-trans-connector-2035400053
i took the car there because the fluid was low .. and occasionally it was making grinding sound, and shifting the gear after a stop in the stop sign was getting bad. since i got back from dealer it is leaking. to day i found out where it is leaking ... here is a similar VDO , where fluid is leaking in my car , please check it for me and advise ... ruclips.net/video/E5i74JZ_Q-I/видео.html
What about for a 2001 E320? shakes when i accelerate
Could work, worth a try, cheap and beats the shop if it works ...
@@Engineerboy100 thanks for the reply I'll keep you posted.
Doesn't work for either the 320 or 350 AMG which are electric throttle peddle
Not familiar with the electric throttle peddle models, the slk230 is drive by wire.
What’s the parts name?
Anyone else have a loud ticking when driving slow and maby driving slow like in a parkinglot and begin to turn right is when you hear it click click click like I have baseball cards in by bicycles rims. Tick tick tick
That sounds like you have a bad axle shaft, they make that ticking noise then they go bad.
Hey thanks for replying. So I got the car from my father with about 62k miles on it and has about 88k right now and he babied it. I try to lol. Yeah it's a tick tick tick only when I turn right like in my parking lot at my apartment going that speed and always have to take a right to get in my spot. That's when it's the loudest but what I was saying about my dad giving me the car I put some aftermarket wheels on it after the fact and it just made me think maybe something is getting caught somewhere in there between the break in the wheel I don't know I don't feel like doing anything to the steering and it's been doing it for quite some time now it has not gotten any worse just been consistent. I'll mention that to somebody when I have them check it out then I don't hear it when I'm going down the road so it just threw me for a loop thanks again for the info I'll have it checked out
Let me just build a car while I am at it bro that guessing
lol I know I know lol Man I feel you, sorry about that :)
Mine never been solved .Cant even give the dam car away as it wont even start anymore spent a ton of money even been to 5 different service garages no luck. Maybe screw Mercedes engines.
My Mercedes SLK kompressor 230 problèmes for 700 tour plus gaz arrêter moteur
Please were is ur car service address?
Could you help me please ?
I'm looking for or plugging the hose,
see the picture
marseillemultimedia.fr/clk/capteurdePression.jpg
CLK200 W208
This is a bit sad because of all the money spent on unnecessary repairs... May be better to pay dearly $150 for diagnostic and then enjoy playing with your toy - at least you get the proper reward of what making repairs to what is broken
The idle in P is too high. It should be around 750 and not 1000. Almost every 230K is shaking a little bit at idle. I think that's pretty normal for a supercharged engine back in the 90s.
Nope, a high or rough idle in an slk230 is not normal. My wifes 1999 SLK230 idles perfectly smooth. If it is not idling correctly, something is wrong. you are correct, idle should be around 750 rpm.
@@Engineerboy100 maybe it is the position sensor on my 230K? I changed almost everything...
@@Engineerboy100 you now what the problem is? I have the same problem...
Man I have the same engine and the coils are very different. You have some thick cables to your coils like in old american junky cars. Mine has lots of small little wires that go to a connector and that connector enters the coil. That's it. On the other hand me car is also "German Edition" so it may different from Europe to your country (I suppose USA?). I'm having a rough idle problem and nobody can figure it out man. I'm so upset. I changed the plugs, is not giving me a misfire error and the check engine indicator doesn't turn on anymore, but clearly has some serious problem while in idle. I always get scared that will engine will stop in the middle of heavy traffic blocking everybody and me end up iin prison. Is very scary. A lot of people said: well if the computer doesn't have any error then we cannot make a diagnose. Bullshit. How about those ECU and all computer were invented? Cars were running with fucked up idles right? And they could be fixed. Also the engine is so fucking busy in there, you can barely stick two fingers here and there. I woulld have loved to chec for air leaks.
Y seach oel for kompressor Mercedes AC861NC turbo kompressor Mercedes for my
???
👏👏👏👏👏
Might have been cheaper to buy a new car
ROFL LOL
Hi Clint Hightower my accelerator pedal is very heavy and hard, What could it be
I have no idea, sorry.