This will all turn up man! I noticed before my car died last time I got a bank2 o2sensor pending code, the dango2 is stuck on there. But as for the idle, mine does that EXACT thing, from 710 to 750 rpms lumps but not Cam Lumps. I revved my car to 3500 in idle and my Fuel system went to OL-Drive from CL. not sure if that helps some stuff but I also noticed you dont have a solenoid valve
I think your car may have some extra emissions stuff on it compared to mine we got luck over here 😂 but I'm going to have a go at fuel pump and filter sometime soon. Still gets up and goes well enough especially now it's not in winter mode🤣 still can't believe I did that. It's seems a super common thing dude. What I honestly think it is, is I think it's down to engine wear and the ECU just can't compensate to smooth out the idle. I've seen something on Audi diesel cars where they get to higher milage and the module that smooths out the idle can no longer keep up so they run rough.
@@M-oneeleven-M111 hey man I just got the new BPV in, and I reset my TPS. and dude. I might record it but when I start my car the gauge jumps to like 15lbs at the supercharger. I need to somehow get rid of some of that boost
@@Mitutumuch sweet you managed to get a new one then erm that's a tough one cause only the bypass valve can do that dude I suspect that because of your over drive pulley the bpv is not opening fast enough the only way to fix that would be to map it differently but I'm sure it should be open straight away anyway. That behaviour would tell me that the ECU is reading engine load when it shouldn't. So I know you have done the TPS reset. What happens exactly if you take the filter off and fire the care up can you tell me what position the new bpv is in?
@@Mitutumuch also what size is your Supercharger pulley to be shoving the boost up that high that almost seems like the pulley is wayyy too small should be no less than 76mm some sellers go down to 56mm but that is really overspinning it and if it's smaller than that good god😂
So far what I think is that it's possible it's either the ECU or the timing chain timing chains are prone to stretching on these engines. The other reason the ECU is I suspect the ECU is unable to account for engine wear, and not able to compensate to smooth the idle as it for me is only noticeable at idle. Also our Turbo Slk doesn't have this issue it's on a standalone megasquirt 3 ECU but it has also had a new timing chain. The new engine we fitted in it, the original chain had stretched to the point it was out of spec i thing it was 10 degrees out of phase. Obviously the ECU isn't really something that can easily be changed However the timing chains is something that can be done, you also pick up a fair bit of power when you replace a stretched chain. If not already please subscribe 🙂
@@RarePotatoHDhonestly I don't think this issue is anything to do with the throttle body as mine has always done this, never had a code or issue with the throttle. I do have a spare throttle body in my car I might try just to rule it out, but I think how mild it is at least on my car I don't believe it relates to the throttle if anything bit does seem like a mild misfire. If the weather is good tomorrow I will try fitting the spare throttle body I have and do a video showing the outcome. 🙂
Try pluging MB Star diagnostic to view individual cylinder firing. I had this issue before and i get the cause from live monitoring via MB Star diagnostic tool : ignition cable issue what cause mine idling lumpy as your. Prior to that it was dirty MAF.
Hey we have had star on it and as of yet it only detected a misfire on cylinder 4 but it was a old code that lasted for a duration that would have been noticeable the MAF was a brand new one but we swapped anyway for one of our spare good ones still no change. We did turn the idle speed up using star as where it was idling it was not happy running that low down in the RPMS like 550-600rpm I suspect it could actually be timing chain stretch as someone I spoke to on the comments jolted my memory about the timing chains. We had to fit a new one in the slk when we rebuilt the engine because it was nearly out of spec that was 80k engine so timing chains are something to be cautious of with these engines same with the tensioners we have seen them destroy engines.
@@M-oneeleven-M111 timing chain tensioner failure would catastrophic failure. If the huge chunk fall in the sump and clough oiling path. Good that you have MB Start diagnostic on hand to check issue. Its live saver for me
The amount it costs to buy it yes it's a lot but you get so much with it too don't you and it enables you to perform so many test functions that a generic fault code reader even a good one could not do. The amount of data and information you get about what faults you do have really helps pin point the failing or failed component. We did used to use carsoft before that with a plug in multiplexer that was quite good to be fair to it but in the end we just went ahead and got MB star because we have had soooooo many Mercedes cars now 😂
@@M-oneeleven-M111 having MB Star Diagnostic is worth much more the other generics diagnostic tool. I own a w202 C230 kompressor late 2000. Im planning to ditch the supercharger & put in a twin scroll td04hla or vf38 turbine trying to get 260hp from stock internal. I had enough fun with eaton m62 supercharger.
You should have no problem getting that from the stock block and management to be fair that's a very conservative target and the stock MAF should be alright it's when you get to 1 bar the stock ECU and MAF do not like that. A vf38 is a fair sized turbo so shouldn't have to run a lot of boost to achieve that the stock block seems to be good for about 350hp 450nm I have seen stock blocks at 500nm but that's really stressing the stock rods. With a vf38 you will still keep the torquey charm of the M111 as they do like to make torque over Hp so at 265hp you will probably see 390-430 nm of toque if not more. Which I can tell you will be awesome 😉 Our Slk is around 280-320hp never been dynod but definitely makes over 400nm but it just squats and goes that's on a large Gt35.
It does get frustrating as I said to bubbles I believe the actual cause is engine wear and the ECU not being able to compensate for it my w202 used to do exactly the same thing but that was fairly modified.
@@M-oneeleven-M111 I think it is the camshaft adjustment because the other supercharged engine (only available with 202 from 95-96) without the camshafts adjustment runs pretty smooth at idle.
@@Gensosan it could easily play a part in it I agree however if you look at the M104s same system and actuator and they run so smooth, granted the two Extra cylinders help smooth out the running. To me if there was anything to compare it to I would say it was more like a vacuum leak if that makes sense
@@M-oneeleven-M111 the 104 is a naturally aspirated engine and the 230K isn't. At idle it runs like naturally aspirated engine though. The EVO engines which came with R170 facelift (197hp and 163hp) are running pretty smooth at idle but with the supercharger active.
@@Gensosan oh I know we have two of them what I'm saying though Is the camshaft system is the same across both engines, except for obviously one being a 4 cyl and one being 6cyl. And at idle the 230k breaths through the bypass valve so yes t that point it is naturally aspirated until somewhere around 2000rpm or a bit above seems to vary from car to car. Like I say with how common the issue is, it is likely something like engine wear or valve overlap. I know a fair amount changed in the post facelift M111 valve Supercharger intake system management was a big part the early Bosch management is very basic but clever at the same time. The post facelift Siemens system however was a big improvement and is likely why this issue is not so much noticed on pot facelift M111s
This will all turn up man! I noticed before my car died last time I got a bank2 o2sensor pending code, the dango2 is stuck on there.
But as for the idle, mine does that EXACT thing, from 710 to 750 rpms lumps but not Cam Lumps.
I revved my car to 3500 in idle and my Fuel system went to OL-Drive from CL. not sure if that helps some stuff but I also noticed you dont have a solenoid valve
I think your car may have some extra emissions stuff on it compared to mine we got luck over here 😂 but I'm going to have a go at fuel pump and filter sometime soon. Still gets up and goes well enough especially now it's not in winter mode🤣 still can't believe I did that. It's seems a super common thing dude. What I honestly think it is, is I think it's down to engine wear and the ECU just can't compensate to smooth out the idle. I've seen something on Audi diesel cars where they get to higher milage and the module that smooths out the idle can no longer keep up so they run rough.
@@M-oneeleven-M111 hey man I just got the new BPV in, and I reset my TPS. and dude. I might record it but when I start my car the gauge jumps to like 15lbs at the supercharger. I need to somehow get rid of some of that boost
@@Mitutumuch sweet you managed to get a new one then erm that's a tough one cause only the bypass valve can do that dude I suspect that because of your over drive pulley the bpv is not opening fast enough the only way to fix that would be to map it differently but I'm sure it should be open straight away anyway. That behaviour would tell me that the ECU is reading engine load when it shouldn't. So I know you have done the TPS reset. What happens exactly if you take the filter off and fire the care up can you tell me what position the new bpv is in?
@@M-oneeleven-M111 m new an old one are dead center actually just slightly actuated. more on the old one, barely any on new one
@@Mitutumuch also what size is your Supercharger pulley to be shoving the boost up that high that almost seems like the pulley is wayyy too small should be no less than 76mm some sellers go down to 56mm but that is really overspinning it and if it's smaller than that good god😂
My slk been doing this but its more engine vibration , and it has gone through.an engine change , what do u think causes it , if u fix it lmk
So far what I think is that it's possible it's either the ECU or the timing chain timing chains are prone to stretching on these engines. The other reason the ECU is I suspect the ECU is unable to account for engine wear, and not able to compensate to smooth the idle as it for me is only noticeable at idle. Also our Turbo Slk doesn't have this issue it's on a standalone megasquirt 3 ECU but it has also had a new timing chain. The new engine we fitted in it, the original chain had stretched to the point it was out of spec i thing it was 10 degrees out of phase. Obviously the ECU isn't really something that can easily be changed However the timing chains is something that can be done, you also pick up a fair bit of power when you replace a stretched chain. If not already please subscribe 🙂
@@M-oneeleven-M111 do u think its the throttle body that needs replacement about this problem?
@@RarePotatoHDhonestly I don't think this issue is anything to do with the throttle body as mine has always done this, never had a code or issue with the throttle. I do have a spare throttle body in my car I might try just to rule it out, but I think how mild it is at least on my car I don't believe it relates to the throttle if anything bit does seem like a mild misfire. If the weather is good tomorrow I will try fitting the spare throttle body I have and do a video showing the outcome. 🙂
Try pluging MB Star diagnostic to view individual cylinder firing.
I had this issue before and i get the cause from live monitoring via MB Star diagnostic tool : ignition cable issue what cause mine idling lumpy as your. Prior to that it was dirty MAF.
Hey we have had star on it and as of yet it only detected a misfire on cylinder 4 but it was a old code that lasted for a duration that would have been noticeable the MAF was a brand new one but we swapped anyway for one of our spare good ones still no change. We did turn the idle speed up using star as where it was idling it was not happy running that low down in the RPMS like 550-600rpm I suspect it could actually be timing chain stretch as someone I spoke to on the comments jolted my memory about the timing chains. We had to fit a new one in the slk when we rebuilt the engine because it was nearly out of spec that was 80k engine so timing chains are something to be cautious of with these engines same with the tensioners we have seen them destroy engines.
@@M-oneeleven-M111 timing chain tensioner failure would catastrophic failure. If the huge chunk fall in the sump and clough oiling path. Good that you have MB Start diagnostic on hand to check issue. Its live saver for me
The amount it costs to buy it yes it's a lot but you get so much with it too don't you and it enables you to perform so many test functions that a generic fault code reader even a good one could not do. The amount of data and information you get about what faults you do have really helps pin point the failing or failed component. We did used to use carsoft before that with a plug in multiplexer that was quite good to be fair to it but in the end we just went ahead and got MB star because we have had soooooo many Mercedes cars now 😂
@@M-oneeleven-M111 having MB Star Diagnostic is worth much more the other generics diagnostic tool.
I own a w202 C230 kompressor late 2000. Im planning to ditch the supercharger & put in a twin scroll td04hla or vf38 turbine trying to get 260hp from stock internal.
I had enough fun with eaton m62 supercharger.
You should have no problem getting that from the stock block and management to be fair that's a very conservative target and the stock MAF should be alright it's when you get to 1 bar the stock ECU and MAF do not like that.
A vf38 is a fair sized turbo so shouldn't have to run a lot of boost to achieve that the stock block seems to be good for about 350hp 450nm I have seen stock blocks at 500nm but that's really stressing the stock rods. With a vf38 you will still keep the torquey charm of the M111 as they do like to make torque over Hp so at 265hp you will probably see 390-430 nm of toque if not more.
Which I can tell you will be awesome 😉
Our Slk is around 280-320hp never been dynod but definitely makes over 400nm but it just squats and goes that's on a large Gt35.
Same here. Changed a lot of parts but it the idle is still shit.
It does get frustrating as I said to bubbles I believe the actual cause is engine wear and the ECU not being able to compensate for it my w202 used to do exactly the same thing but that was fairly modified.
@@M-oneeleven-M111 I think it is the camshaft adjustment because the other supercharged engine (only available with 202 from 95-96) without the camshafts adjustment runs pretty smooth at idle.
@@Gensosan it could easily play a part in it I agree however if you look at the M104s same system and actuator and they run so smooth, granted the two Extra cylinders help smooth out the running. To me if there was anything to compare it to I would say it was more like a vacuum leak if that makes sense
@@M-oneeleven-M111 the 104 is a naturally aspirated engine and the 230K isn't. At idle it runs like naturally aspirated engine though. The EVO engines which came with R170 facelift (197hp and 163hp) are running pretty smooth at idle but with the supercharger active.
@@Gensosan oh I know we have two of them what I'm saying though Is the camshaft system is the same across both engines, except for obviously one being a 4 cyl and one being 6cyl. And at idle the 230k breaths through the bypass valve so yes t that point it is naturally aspirated until somewhere around 2000rpm or a bit above seems to vary from car to car. Like I say with how common the issue is, it is likely something like engine wear or valve overlap. I know a fair amount changed in the post facelift M111 valve Supercharger intake system management was a big part the early Bosch management is very basic but clever at the same time. The post facelift Siemens system however was a big improvement and is likely why this issue is not so much noticed on pot facelift M111s
You diesel oder benzin
Y have benzin now diesel y have problèmes électroniques
I'm sorry I don't understand what you mean? My friend
Motor diesel injector 4 x 1x defect
It's a 2.3 petrol buddy not injectors all are ok it seems most likely to be a vacuum leak but will go through just about every option it could be