Diy paint and auto body repair on your car. bumper repair
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- In this episode I'll show you step by step how to repair peeling paint on your hood and bumper. We also do some auto body repair on the hood. We will replace the front bumper and I will show you how to prepare it for paint properly and how to paint the bumper. This episode is pack with useful information for the diy enthusiast! If you have any questions be sure to leave them in the description!
Don't forget to check out my other how to videos!
I hope you find this video helpful!
If you have any questions leave them in the comments below.
Email me pics or stories of you repair project. I may give you a shout out or share your photos
okpaintworx@gmail.com
For business Inquiries ⬇️⬇️
email at okpaintworx@gmail.com
Thanks for watching and please
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As a Amazon associate I earn from qualifing purchases.
Amazon links to products i use:
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Mirka Deros MID650-912-5 6" Electric Dust-Free Sanding System
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mirka Deros orbital dustless sander
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Plastic masking film
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Trim removal tools
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Rubber eraser wheel
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paint gun
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Astro euro he paint gun
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body filler
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usc icing poly putty
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3m platinum plus body filler
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sanding blocks
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Dura block kit
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CHEN REFINISH Premium Quality Black 2-3/4" x 5" Rubber Sanding Block
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Dura-Block AF4405 Black Scruff Pad
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3M 05777 Hookit 6" x 1/2" x 3/4" Soft Interface Pad
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sand paper
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dura gold 80 long board sticky back
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dura gold 320 long board sticky back
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dura gold 180 long board sticky back
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3M 31435 Stikit Gold 6-inch P320A Grit Disc
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3M 03020 Imperial Wetordry 3-2/3" x 9" P600 Grit Sandpaper
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primer
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primer gun 2.0mm nozzle with regulator
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Optex polyester primer color change
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Optex primer catalyst fast
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Speedkote 2k urethane primer kit fast dry
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Speedkote epoxy primer quart kit
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sem self etching primer
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sem aerosol primer
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ckearcoat
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upol clear coat and catalyst kit
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Bondo Gray Filler Primer, Highly Durable & Easy to Use, 11 oz, 1 Aerosol
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Kleanstrip Prep-All Wax & Grease Remover, Gallon (KLE-GSW362)
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Be sure to check out my other videos in the links below!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Garage Noise, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Garage Noise assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Garage Noise, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Garage Noise
If you found this video helpful, check out How to repair scratches in your plastic bumper.ruclips.net/video/x3xtZUh2XMs/видео.html
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Cant believe you don't have more subscribers I have watched 100s of body videos and your series are top 3 without a doubt.
Appreciate it! I've got a lot of things planned, more videos every week. Along with one video a week on a restoration project so stay tuned brother, appreciate the support!
Great video. Keep them coming
This channel needs more attention.
Thanks man! I love the great feedback!
great video! super satisfying to watch the transformation and fun to learn about the process.
Thank you!
Much Appreciation . My motto is ( I don't care how difficult the job is AS LONG AS IT PAYS GOOD ) 😁
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Fantastic job sir thank you 👍👍👍
Hey Chris can you give us the air pressure that spraying,I’m learning soo much from you! Thank you
Sheesh! That red OBS f150 is clean!!!!
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nice job
Thank you for sharing this ❤
You are so welcome
Exactly what I was looking for! Very instructive. thank you sir.
Awesome! Appreciate your comment and support!
U r a great
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Your videos are more my style, at home, in your garage, that's me I've not had much to do here in the last couple of months but that's fine with as warm as it's been, besides I've made up my mind if I have to fix rust I'm going to make it worth my time, with the price of everything being what it is and you don't like my prices take it somewhere else your not going to hurt my fillings. I do more rust repair then anyone I know in this line of work, I think it's because they don't want the mess it makes in there shop !
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1. When you said you put icing what exactly is it? There are so many body fillers out there?
2. & what was that wet bed you put on the hood never herd of that? I would help me a lot if you answer please. Thanks again
thanks for teaching us
Your welcome! Appreciate the support!
Hi Chris, a couple of questions. To me it looks like you put paint (base) on the entire hood not blend you hit the front primed area first then came back with a second coat over the entire hood. Perhaps I'm wrong. Second. When you put the first coat of clear on the hood you went top to bottom and on the second coat you went side to side. I thought you were not suppose to do that. Start one way and stay that way for all the coats on panels. I'm going to be doing a hood with metallic dark blue paint and I don't want to mess up. Good grief paint is expensive! Thanks Brother
What's the mixing with bulldog and sealer bud ?
You are great teacher! Thank you! Only one question: what was that wet bed you did before you paint?
Thank you sir! A wet bed is straight basecoat binder( no color) reduce it the same as paint. You can pick it up at your local paint supplier.
@@GarageNoisethank you for answering me. Greetings from Greece!
How much can someone expect a job like this to cost? Im asking because I struggle with pricing/quoting paint jobs
About 1000-1200
Also what's that wet bed material ?
Nice as always. What clear did you use? I saw you using upol clear in a previous vid and was wondering if you reduce it any?
I recently switched clears and the new clear is amazing high solid clear with awesome flow. The price is budget friendly as well. I don't remember the name right off the top of my head. I will let you know . Hopefully I will be able to share a link. I don't ever reduce clear. I don't know of any clear that is reduced. Upol you don't want to reduce for sure. It will take away from the gloss and durability.
Before you put the icing did you go over it again with 180 grit ?
Yes I try to because that's what the technical data sheet call for.
@@GarageNoise Thanks for the info bud.
how do u get to put back the badges in the exact spot
Take pictures and measurements
I have a trunk that has chipping paint on one side small area seams like adhesive problem do you think i could try and feather edge it and see what happens ik doing a color change on the car
Hard to sa for sure, If you try a little 320 by hand you should be able to tell.
I have a yellow spoiler that I am going to paint metallic silver I am sanding with 320 grit to remove the yellow paint now it is gray should I put primer over it and sand the primer with 400grit or 600 grit for the base coat?
400 or 600 either one is appropriate. 400 will cut primer a bit quicker.
@@GarageNoise okay 👍 Thank you so much I really appreciate it
Hey Chris, the disposable water separator on your air line do you only use it once or do you get a few uses out of it?
Have a happy Fourth of July weekend.
No, I leave it on for about a month which is about 8 uses. Happy 4th !
@@GarageNoise good to know, thanks Chris.
did you use the speedokote epoxy primer/sealer for the sealer step? if so what was you mix ratio? i tried it and it seemed like i needed to mix it like 4:1:1 to get it to spray decently as a sealer.
For the sealer on the bumper I used autobahn sealer with bulldog adhesion promoter it's a simple 1k sealer no activator. A 2k sealer would be 4:1 ratio and some you can reduce 4:1:1 but you need to follow manufacturer guidelines for the product your using.
If it sprays too thick and the manufacturer gives you the option to reduce than i would say go ahead and reduce it a bit.
Thanks for the reply!
Where did you get the Mirka Sander and what model is it?
I wish I could put a link up for this but it's not on amazon. I purchased this at my local auto paint supply shop. This is not the latest version of the system. Its amazing tho i love it! Its a mirka Deros dust free sanding system . Here is a link to the orbital sander .
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Perpendicular, not parallel, but yes.
No, the spray pattern needs to be parallel with the panel. Meaning the same distance from the panel at all times. Thank's for watching!
Parallel would be spraying across the panel, never actually reaching the panel. We agree about what the pattern needs to be, in both directions. We just disagree on the definition of parallel. Train tracks are parallel.
Yes, train tracks are parallel. You want the spray pattern the same distance to the panel from the front edge of the pattern to the back edge of the pattern. So the metallics land evenly. The spray pattern edge represents one rail of a track and the panel the other rail of a track.
@@GarageNoise, exactly. Both the X and Y axis needs to be perpendicular. If we imagine the needle extending down from the gun and touching the panel, it needs to be straight on, both left/right, and up/down. That's the perpendicular part. Then we add in equidistant, meaning whatever your distance is, say 5", that stays constant as well. I see more than a few folks who get the distance thing, and the left/right thing, but angle the gun up/down, and wonder why they are getting stripes.
Call it what you will. We're saying the same thing. That, and we seem to agree that the HE103 is a nice gun.
As long as the explanation is clear in the video . Lol , love the Astro euro He
Why not just sand and paint the entire hood?
I don't want to put color out on the edge of the hood because it may not match the fender then the fenders would need to be blended.
@@GarageNoise ok but didn't you paint to the edge of the hood on the bottom half anyway ? I'm new to this and just trying to understand, thank you .