How to blend BASECOAT using a COLOR BLENDER
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- Опубликовано: 20 май 2023
- Have you struggled to get uniform blends when painting your repair or restoration project?
I know at times I have. Today I share how to blend basecoat using a color blender. There are some very simple things you can do that will eliminate tiger stripes or mottling in your basecoat. Today, you get the answers along with details on how to use a wet bed or color blender to get amazing results when painting your car! Buckle up it's time to BUILD YOUR SKILL!
If you find this video helpful, be sure to let me know in the comments. I welcome your feedback and questions
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speedkote color blender
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sunmight flexible sandpaper 800 grit finish
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Eagle flexible sandpaper interface pad
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R500 lvlp paint gun for small compressors
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upol 2k primer
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low cost disposable cup system 1.0
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astro sun light
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premium tack cloths
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prep solvent
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raven latex gloves
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finish1 fc710 with slow hardner
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70% isopropyl alcohol
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masking machine
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18inch masking paper
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3m performance masking tape 3/4
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3m pps 2.0 cups , liner, lid kit
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masking plastic
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3m superfine sanding foam pad
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Go pro 7 black
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Garage Noise, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Garage Noise assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Garage Noise, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Garage Noise. 
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Thanks again Chris . I've been doing paint work for 25 years, this ol dog can definitely learn new tricks. 😁
You bet, appreciate the comment and support brother!
Very good tips and very professional
Great work… nice to see this work being done in NC an open workshop/ garage like most of us have to contend with. Keep em coming 👍
Great video, Chris! Amazing workmanship. Always learn something new from you. Thank you!
Awesome! Good to know! Appreciate your comment and support!
Thank you for posting this and I love how you always add a few tips and tricks into your videos to help me remember things I have forgotten
Good to know, making so many videos sometimes I feel I'm being a little redundant . I try to emphasize what's important.
fantastic,im going back to painting after 30 years it.s been very helpfull thanks
Wonderful!
I learn something new each time I watch your videos. Thanks.
Glad to hear it!
I bought the Gun here and its the best paint I've ever laid down. Can't believe the quality of a $90 gun. Thanks for the help.
Awesome! Happy to hear it! I appreciate your comment and support!
Its good to show us how to correct mistakes during paint job. Hope to see more videos like this. Good job Chris
I don't get a lot of this kinda stuff but when I do I'll film it and put it all in one video. I think that will be a really useful video for the community. Appreciate your support!
What a fantastic channel. Thanks for spending the time to record/edit and post this content. I’m researching on the steps to paint my 7.3 Powerstroke project and your explanations and tips are greatly appreciated.
Awesome! Appreciate your comment. This is why I continue to make videos comments like this.
Awesome work Chris! You are a great teacher.
Brilliant that Chris hope your ok and safe and well thanks for sharing that information great video very well explained thanks 😊
Always learning from you thanks Chris 👍
Appreciate the support Joan!
Good to learn something new. Thank you!
Awesome! Appreciate your comment and support!
Amazing and great tips, thanks
Thank's brother! Appreciate the support!
Another excellent video and full of information I needed 👊🏻👍🏻
Awesome! Appreciate your comment and support!
Lovely finish at the end there Chris, it was good to finally see what a halo looks like as I've heard a lot about them but never actually seen one and how it happens plus I didn't know what the fix is so I've learnt a lot from your video, loving your work👌👍John UK
That's what it's all about! Appreciate the comment and support!
Excellent work thank you for shearing
Appreciate the support!
Excellent video sir, good information.
👍thanks, appreciate the comment
Thanks Chris
Appreciate the support!
Amazing.
Thank's brother!
Hey Chris! Love you sharing your expertise! I am getting ready to paint a friends Lexus bumper, she rear ended twice in one week!
Here in Destin Florida, Spring breaker and tourist not paying attention! Thanks to you, I feel confident I can paint this.
I ordered the Color blender you recommended! I ran into a big problem in the middle of painting! Lost power and lighting at night
The were too many problems with the basecoat Mottling, so re-sanded the color blender with 600 wet, Humidity is running 79 %
So, I think Ill try when it 70%! SO, I'm basically re-doing it Thanks to you I am learning more about this issue and how to go about re-doing!
I need to order that 800 paper you recommended. I was unable to dry sand with regular paper!
Thank so much!
Dennis
Yeah, the best way to learn is making mistakes. Hopefully I the videos help minimize that! Appreciate your support!
Great video!! Painting metallics is hard. Thanks for the video
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Happy to see you using the Speedokote products! USA products ftw!
👍👊
Good video thanks for showing us that things happen and how to fix it.
👍👊
This video was helpful
Awesome! Good to know! Appreciate your comment!
Thank for great video. i alway was wandering what that color blender is for. Now i see it, and how it works.
Also i like when you don't speed up the video when moving gun . It helps for a DIY like me to learn the speed for the lvlp guns. Now i know how fast should i move the gun over panel. Thanks!!!
Awesome! Good to know about the speed of the video. Appreciate your comment!
Nice 👍 job
Thanks 👍
Great video....
Thank's brother!
When I'm doing a spot job similar to this.I tint the primer with metallic paint. Get the primer extremely close to the color, fast coverage.
Never tried that. Appreciate the comment and support!
Hi sir nice job thanks for informative video have a nice day
Appreciate your comment and support!
What size compressor do you use ? And how long do you let the clear cure before cutting and buffing?
Great video Chris! Quick question: can we spray a "wet bed"/ clear base before each coat of base or one before the 1st coat would suffice? Thanks a lot!
You can do it in between each coat of base if you want. I sometimes put another coat of clear basecoat or wet bed on just before my last coat of base . Appreciate the comment and support!
Hi Chris, I noticed you saying you sprayed on your Colorblender/ wet bed with only 5% of reducer mix, I think it is supposed to be a 50/50 mix with reducer as a wet bed. I have been spraying with 5% and leaving to thick of a layer and very hard to get clear out smooth also found out speedkote cautions againt thick layers. I also looked into it on youtube and found almost everyone else that uses this product also does a 50/50 mix as a wet bed, I found out if it's to thick it could cause peeling in long run. so going to try and remove all and re-start with 50/50 mix of colorblender/reducer. and go from there , but I think 50/50 will make things also easier for wet bed. Hope this helps Somone else if there having issues with the 5% reduction peeling like I am. Go with 50/50 for wet bed and I’m sure will last much longer .
I found it to be thick as well that's why I started reducing it . I don't think it will hurt anything not to reduce it except the appearance.
Great job brother a one
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love your videos I'm learning a lot question i have is everytime you switch from sealer to color coat to clear coat do you completely clean your spray gun?
Just between sealer and paint. Just aquick clean between base and clear. I use separate guns sometimes. Appreciate your comment!
You can hit your sealer edge with some solvent blender while it’s still wet to soften it right up. Just have to be careful because it can make the sealer run if you hit it to hard
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Thank u Chris for all th great knowledge we appreciate u 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽God Bless ….let’s us kno if u can do a review on the VeVor HVLP spray gun very similar to th Sata gun thanks Always 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
I did one one on that gun. Great gun for the money!
love the video!!! question how long will the finish 1 clear last?
I imagine it's a 8-10 year clear maybe longer. It's really impossible to say because exposure to the elements depends on your location an I haven't done any testing on durability. Although It would be interesting. Appreciate your comment!
Hi Chris, One of your best videos. I learned a lot. The key is not to freak out. Naturally you didn't. One question I have is there a time window on when one can lay down a clear coat after the base? Does it have to be done immediately after the base flashes?
The window is usually
About 24hrs but always check the technical data sheet for the paint your using. Appreciate the comment and support!
When I spray in my garage, the over spray rises and then falls back into my fresh clear, leaving dust nibs in the clear
Dust nidbs are most likely not from the overspray in my experience.
@Garage Noise when I spray clear its a cloud of overspray going up and then it walls back down into my clear
Get an exhaust fan!
@tony1798 Dust Nibs are from not cleaning / wiping down your surface correctly or right before you start to paint (each panel), as stated here getting some fans will help reduce your issue.
@Garage Noise Great animations and special effects in your videos man, you are really killing it!! 🤙 Question pertaining to sealer, do you have a video, or could you cover how to mix with paint so it's a mild version of the color you are spraying? I'm wondering if this can be done with the paint you buy for the vehicle, or do you pretty much have to go to a mixing shop? The desired result being that your sealer actually helps promote coverage, and less coats of base!?
Yes it can be with this upol sealer I have been testing that a bit. I will make some content on it .
@@GarageNoise That would be awesome! We moved but I think I can still get the Finish 1 sealer from Napa, the paint here is Advanced Auto and its Nason I think? (not sure if it matters what brand, or if brand agnostic)
After sanding to fix the halo could you have used solvent based cleaner to get rid of the sanding residue or only tack cloth?
I wouldn't recommend it. It could affect the metallics. The tack cloth should be sufficient and won't create other issues. Appreciate the comment and support brother!
Hi GarageNoise
I've got 2 questions I can't find the answers on...
When one scours the surface with 600 (primer and surrounding surface with clear coat on it), that means that the color base coat just layers on top of that scoured clear coat? And then on a part a bit further away just clear coat will be sprayed afterwards on the part that is scoured with 600 but didn't see any base coats? And that'll at the edges becomes the blending area?
Right now I think ^ upper is as it is but I'm not sure, kind of doubting.
The final question... I've purchased two R500's with 2 adapters for the disposable cups. One r500 I'll use exclusive for clear coat and the other I use for primer, Sealer and basecoat. In between the use and switching from primer to Sealer to basecoat or straight from primer to basecoat, is it needed to clean the inside of the gun or is mounting the cup with the new fluid on top of it and spray it through a little on a piece of paper enough? Thanks for your answer and
video's!
Hi Chris! Is there any strategy to prevent clear from buildup on the edges of the panels? Do you spray faster when you reach the edges? Thank you!
I've honestly never had that problem and the only thing I do is I don't end my pass on any edge. Appreciate the comment and support!
What brand reducer do you use with the Upol 2k to make sealant?
Thanks for the videos they are very informative.
I'm using this amzn.to/3GS0tPL
But any urethane reducer will work. Just choose the right speed for the temperature .
@@GarageNoise Thanks Chris for the information on the paint reducer.
Much appreciated.
Do you need to reduce base coat with blender when painting spots like that? Or is it the same as spaying a wet blender on whole panel and just base coating the spot areas?
Pretty much the same but there's different techniques .some guy like to add a color blender to thin paint for the drop coat or final blend.
Do you have any videos on taking apart the car parts and trim before painting?
No but I can do one
@@GarageNoise That would be great. I haven't seen any youtube painter do one yet. The cars are always already stripped of everything in most videos
Thanks for sharing about the use of blender, very useful stuff.
Two more questions: (1) What adapter did you use between the Iwata and Sprayiq cup system? I was looking to see if it worked with a PPS 1.0 compatible system like the Harbor Freight spectrum. (2) Would you recommend the Iwata over the R500 spraygun for DIY in terms of atomization if you have the CFM?
Thanks again.
Yes if you have the air go with the Iwata. Although there are material savings and overspray to consider and the R500 is better for that. Overall finish go with the Iwata.
@@GarageNoise Thanks for clearing that up! Do you have any details about the adapter you used with the Iwata? It looks like it worked with the Sprayiq cup system.
Chris: I want to make a comment on the Silverado silver Metallic
You painted read only. It was just like mine that I have to paint the two left side doors of. You nailed it brother. I hope and pray mine looks as good as that. Now question: my small compressor started making a horrible noise so it’s time to replace. With my LvLP R500 do you agree I could make a 29 gal 5.3 scfm do to paint.
Yes 5.3 cfm's will do. Get the most cfm's you can afford. If you you're painting a complete you'll have some air fluctuations but for a few panel you shouldn't have any problem.
How do you match the paint color? Do you just use thebOEM paint code? why about older faded paint?
Yes, I use the OEM paint code if a paint is severely faded you won't be able to match it perfectly but blending the color will help disguise the difference.
One moe thing...I'm not sure what caused your halos. Was it the transition from primer to factory paint? I know you are a production shop. I do resto work and i'm not under the gun to get stuff out of my shop. We operate in different worlds. But one thing that absolutely makes any work disappear is working through the grits. So one of the last steps I take on all my putty work after its flat, it to hand sand through all the grits from about 400 wet to 2000 wet. Yeah, overkill for you but never had any problems this way.
It was a combination of sealer edge (needed a bit more reducer in the sealer) and the fact that it was a high metallic and that just magnifies everything. Appreciate the comment and support!
Great job! One question from amateur: Will a sanded ( 1000 paper) clearcoat regain its transparency after applying subsequent coats of clearcoat?
Yes, absolutely
Could it have happened after the wet bed dried up on 2nd coat of base? Looked like it dried or flashed when you came back. I thought the blender is supposed to stay wet
Love the information! Great format, I like the little comments like what type of gun and settings.
Huge point on hiccups: that’s what it’s all about. I’ve been doing autobody for 30 years. Hey guys, you’ll get there: it’s all about setbacks.
That's how you build your skill is making mistakes and correcting them. Appreciate your comment and support!
Can you give us more insight about the Sherwin Williams clear paint? Alot of people are looking for an affordable clear with good durability.
Don't use any Sherwin Williams automotive products!
@@MAn-ti3ul why not? What would you recommend?
The clearcoat? Yes I will. I'll be using this clear for awhile I'll get into it soon.
What's the purpose of the clear basecoat? When would you use it?
ruclips.net/video/7HxEY8NMjRU/видео.html
This video will answer that.
For adding that basecoat, is that only for silver metallic? I am doing a Purple/black metallic colour (malbec black, Code GAC) and wondering if I should do that as well. Thanks!
I think your referring to the color blender or wet bed? If so, it's not always necessary a black metallic you really shouldn't need a wet bed. It's won't hurt anything if you choose to use one tho.
@@GarageNoise Yeah, the layer that you put on before the actual paint is what I meant. Thanks!
What size air compressor do you
Use?
60 gallon ingersoll 16.5 cfm's
How are you getting the over spray out? I see the garage door is open. What about flies
Exhaust fan under door. Never have a problem with bugs
@@GarageNoise Insects smell and taste 2K and they are out of there. The only thing that smells worse is Cerakote! 😷
color Blender is suitable for any brand of paint?, thanks
As far as I can determine from the manufacturer yes.
Great video. Wanted to ask you about that upol 2253 primer you use. I was checking it out, and it said Requires an acid etch primer, like Acid #8. What does that mean? I use hok, but its so expensive now looking forsomething else. Thanks
I see what your saying. I was curious so I contacted upol tech support and he told me that for that is for aluminum and it's supposed to read for optimal corrosion protection use the acid ectch #8 . If your wanting to do a overall paint job from bare metal I would use a epoxy primer first than a 2k
@Garage Noise Do you think it's close to hok KD 3000. Just wanting your opinion on it. Thanks
@@chriskiefer8365 I'm not that familiar with hok primer. What are you using for project wise.
@Garage Noise I'm trying to find something that's a good overall primer. I'm painting my car, and have some burn throughs. I really like the hok primer it's just to expensive. It's seems like you use that upol a lot, and and just wanted to get your thoughts on it. Thanks for the help. I appreciate it.
@@chriskiefer8365 it would be good for that. It's not my the greatest as a high build primer over filler. I've noticed some shrinking. I don't really use it for that cause i finish my body work with 320. So that's why I was asking but it should be perfect for what your looking for just give it proper flash times and let it cure overnight.
Why not spray the sealer right up to the blend so it’s more uniform?
The halo was caused from the metallics laying funny in the edge of the sealer. The sealer was not reduce quite enough to leave it smooth so the metallics lay flat.
Why we should use sealer over primer?
I avoid it if I can ,but some reason are creates a uniform substrate for base color, seals or fills fine scratches, that helps with coverage. That's about it.
Chris on the spray cup system. The top of that has the micro filter in it. Do you have to change that Top every time you paint or clear . How do you use them ?
Yes those are disposable , change with every use.
Here's a video ruclips.net/video/fDKK-eScKQI/видео.html
The problem was that you used a high build primer and not a sealer, hence the problem with the base.
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For all positive and cheering comments didnt urs all notice that most youtubers ARE A PROFESSIONALS & using tools actually not on our hand? so how we gonna have same results when we doit ur selfs without those tools? it suppose to be a lesson to DIY so how we doit ur selfs if we didnt have same tools used on the video? i need the answer from the Commentators please.
I wish you were my neighbor
Why bother with all the sealer shenanigans? Applying sealer in patches is hardly worth the effort, why not try being slightly more tender with your sanding primer and skip the sealer stage?
I recommend eactly that, I try to avoid sealer whenever possible. On metallics especially light colored metallics it's a good insurance policy.