You are awesome. Thanks for the fix. The stealership wanted $650 to repair this. It took me around 3hrs to do. The hardest part was waiting for the sealer to dry.
Thank you for the video. A little tip for you on soldering that really helped me out. It would be best to remove old solder with a solder sucker, I’m not sure if that’s the right name for it but you probably know what I mean. Then use Flux and some fresh good 60/40 Rosen core Lead Solder. The flux is going to help remove contaminants away from the solder so it will be a solid bind with no cold joints. It will also help when it comes to melting the solder you will see melt instantly. Also get you some Brillo to clean the tip. You can just jab it in the bundle to remove any extra solder or junk built up to reveal a clean shiny tip again. a wet sponge is no good in my opinion because it just never worked right for me and I’m sure there is temperature drop and oxidation from the water that is left behind. It works in a pinch with a clean sponge and purified water. but I have destroyed and had several tips in the past Break apart. Also, it doesn’t do as good as a Brillo ball would. I’m pretty sure it’s brillo it came with my Hakko soldering iron. Furthermore, try looking up hakko FS-100 chemical paste. You will use that for the soldering tip after every use before storage or if you feel you need a refreshed tip to continue with. The FS-100 is like solder with a cleaner but it removes anything from the tip that can cause it to damage your tip or get in the way of heat transfer. Check it out I didn’t know the stuff even existed. Lol You will thank me later, I promise!! I have never soldered better in my history of understanding how to solder. I always thought I knew what I was doing till one day doing some research on how to be better and more precise. Now I can’t ever see any other way to do it. Once you get that down you will be amazed at how solder just works for you on point every single time flawlessly . Like if you are a pro. Your work will be way cleaner too. Also don’t forget to use rubbing alcohol to clean up soldered parts when you are done because the flux is corrosive and can cause damage. For soldering I use a Hakko FX-888D. It is amazing and you can find all different sizes of soldering tip sizes throughout Amazon. You can find the FS-100 on there too. I hope my advice will help you out like your video helped me. I just wanted to see if I had enough heat sink compound for the heat sink spots that you see in white… ALSO for anyone that is going to rebuild theirs don’t forget to put fresh heat sink thermal paste on those circular white spots. It’s important to keep the electronics from overheating. From my research I can only find the one I know we need to use at Auto zone. Autozone sells it in tiny packets. It’s called Wells heat sink compound SL203. If you can’t get it maybe reach out to the company and see what you can use as an alternative. It’s what is recommended for GM from what I’ve read. You have to be sure that you don’t use any other heat sink product unless you absolutely know what you are doing. Some contain aluminum or something that can short out the electronics from what I hear. Good luck and thanks agian for the video! You got my sub and a thumbs up.👍🏻
Warning to all. I use to make the coils for several Kelsey-Hayes ABS systems and we also did several automotive modules. Be careful of RTV on circuit boards. A lot of RTV have an acidic acid that will attack a circuit board. I found a recommendation and attached: Non acidic RTV's are sold by aquarium shops, and for electronic encapsulation. The former is usually the 'easier' source if only a small quantity is required. 'Normal' RTV's give off acetic acid, and are not suitable for use on a PCB. Look for GE 142, Rutland 76R, and similar products. As an alternative, consider a low melting point hot-melt glue. After watching video you could probably use normal RTV on the perimeter only, not on the circuit board
Thanks for your video - this procedure worked like a champ on my '01 Blazer with essentially the same ABS module. The Brake/ABS light issue is now a thing of the past !
Thanks for this video. I did this twice. The first time my soldering iron wasn't working well. I suspect the original solder is higher temp than what I am used to working with. After the first time I ordered a new higher wattage iron. I was still getting the code but in a little different pattern than before so I still thought the solder joints were the problem. I redid it with the new iron a couple of weeks ago. I could tell immediately that the solder was flowing much better. I now declare mine fixed.
Just wanted to thank you for doing such a super job making this video. It was very well done, right to the point and not too much "yammering and repetitive comments". Last night I watched your video, went out in my garage and pulled out the ABS unit on my 02 Silverado 1500 4x4. It was mounted up inside the left side frame rail. Behind the left torsion bar. What a pain in the butt to get it out. I had to undo all the brake lines and nearly had to pull the Tcase. But finally finagled it out. I did the soldering technique you showed and BAM! No more ABS / brake light! Thanks for sharing!
After watching the video, I followed your advice and the repair was successful on my 02 Silverado. No more abs/brake warning lights. Good job, thanks a lot.
This pc board is surface mount technology with components and connection lands on both sides of the board with thru holes on some connections.The automated wave solder process is not making good solder connections on the side of the board you can't see. Hand soldering the thru hole connections fixes the bad solder joints. When you solder these joints be sure the heat melts the joint and a good solder flow will go thru and go to the other side of the board making a good connection. Thanks for this post it helped me fix my ABS problem on my 2002 Avalanche that has plagued me for a long time.
+synthoify That is correct, I let the solder flow but not too much to where it over flows on the back side. You must have a good soldering iron and patience to do a good solder job. Thanks for the reply
2004 Chevy Tahoe w/160k. Mine didn't have the 6 screws and joints didn't appear to need touching up but i tried it anyway. I touched up all the joints and sealed up with rtv silicone 20 minute quick cure lightly clamping while it cured. Its been about 4 weeks and the light hasn't come on once. We'll see how long it last. Thanks for your help!
+lundy36752 I did my repair November 2014 and it is still working as of May 2016. Mine didn't seem to need touchup either but it fixed the problem. Thanks for the comment.
Great video my friend. Straight to the point. Keep up the good work. Headed out to the truck to pull mine down now. Fingers crossed this will fix my abs issues. I have exhausted all other avenues at this point. Thanks again.
Hi there, Thank for good video. Is it possible to operate ABS module with only one speed sensor? Actually, I am a student and want to present the ABS operation with single tire and break assembly using single speed sensor.
Wish it was that easy to get at the screws on my sierra. Mine are all rusted . Think I am going to have to get the whole bracket off including brake lines
Did you got fixed your Saab with this ? I have the code u0212 un muy Saab93 08' aero ... ABS, brakes AND EPS/TCS lights comes on after hitting bumps on the road. Thanks.
Very good video. Was your ABS on "solid" all the time? My ABS light comes and goes. I've analyzed my ABS with an Autel and found the code C1095 pump electrical circuit short. However all sensors are displaying good reading when driving I've witnessed on the analyzer. I can't activate the pump during a test either. I bet I have the same issue. Trouble shooting ABS without an analyzer is very difficult, good job.
I spend my abs Electrical ABS module to speedometer for refurbish. My rear brakes still locking up. So check your brake calibers & replace them, eliminate the problem. Happy camper
Opa blz tenho uma captiva 2.4 2010 igual esa sua prata aí está dando código c0550 falha na ecu do módulo porém só quando começa andar ela aparece as luzes de stabilitrak controle de tração abs quando liga ligada apaga todas as luzes começou a rodar acende todo será que dá concerto esa central sou de Curitiba PR
Exciter ring ( magnetic Ring ) may be broken. It is part of the wheel bearing and is magnetic and can only be checked by jacking up the car and checking from the back side while spinning the tire. Do a search for wheel bearing Exciter ring.
Can you hear it like a mild fan noise? Got used tahoe with abs,brake and check engine light on for abs and knock sensor. What comes to worst after I check all grounds,leads,and speed sensors I can have pump replaced. When I hit any bumps on freeway the truck swerves a little. Not safe at all so.thx
I want to start by cleaning the ground wires to this module but can't seem to find them.....would you please guide me as to where they're at???module is in the same spot as yours but can't seem to find them ground wires😢
Buen dia jovenes buen video gracias que con su ayuda nos vamos giando poco a poco tengo un modulo de abs que es de una ford escape 2015 da datos invalidos del modulo abs que se le pudo ver dañado en la tarjeta a este modulo mepodria ayudar
Do you think this is the problem on my daughters equinox when she applies the brakes even on dry ground you can hear the abs module kick in just out of the blue ?
Anyone have an idea on what to use for a stripped torx head? Glad it is the one to the left in plain view and not one of the ones behind the module that would be very hard to get to. Thinking a Dremel with grinder bit.
Gracias Jose manana mismo tratare de usar tu tecnica ojala a mi tanbien me funcione, jajajaja ya mi inspeccion sticker se vencio ase un meeeees y no la he llevado gracias otra vez !
Surprised that damn dash works. I fixed more GM dashes solder joints and motors then any ABS problems...Did I mention fuel gauge fix. Replace the Fuel pump.. Really GM?
My 2008 yukons abs module is not in the same spot. And looks different but my abs and traction control light is on and service brake light. I wanted to try this repair but with is being in a different spot and shaped different if this would still work. What year is your avalanch
My Avalanche is 2003 but the procedure should still work if your abs module has cold solder joints. I would recommend looking up some threads on the 2008 first before attempting this repair just to be safe.
I have seen videos of people using heat guns to reflow solder. Do you think this could be done on the ABS module without damaging it? I would think using a heat gun might would be possibility preferable just because it would reflow the solder on every joint all at one time. Thanks in advance for your time. Great video btw.
Was the symptoms just lights on or was pump activating when it shouldn't? Mine is lights on and pump activating. 01 Suburban. Had scanner hooked up and wss appeared to be working. However did not do a low speed test.
+Jose Ilagan I got a 02 escalade with JL4. got a 0285 code and dealer said my pump was shot. I replaced MPS and both front hubs. Only at low speed it drops pressure and locks up. got my EBCM out now to fix like you. Am I waisting my time?
Jose I got a 2005 chevy avalanche that has that same problem. I actually payed for a new box and had that it put on. In all spent 800 . The problem is that I still have the light come back on after a few days of it been instaled and has not gone off. Is there something u think that could of gone wrong??
You might want to check the main ground wire that bolts to the frame rail, remove the ground wire, clean terminal and frame and re install the ground wire and make sure it is tight. That can be a problem but no guarantees. Another issue could be the ABS pump, you might want to have a shop pull the trouble codes to help pin point the problem before spending any more unnecessary money. There is a possibility that the new module is bad if it was a repaired module also. I would get the trouble codes first then decide whether to try to get replacement module or replace the pump.
Not sure exactly were that might be. If anything I'll check with tha mechanic and mention what u just told me. If my box is bad i would have to go return it to the dealer ship.Thanx ALOT for your help and video. The best one yet.
Most-likely, you have an ABS problem at the front sensors. One of three problems you should address first: the ABS lines to the hubs are cut or damaged. Second, the ABS sensors are no longer sending voltage signal to the ABS module or ECM, and third - if you have 'worn spindle bearings' that cause the interruptor ring to have excessive variance, you MUST REPLACE YOUR FRONT BEARINGS to fix the problem. This last one is a BIG ONE for Silverado owners (I have a 2500HD, and the bearing wear will cause such variance that the hall-effect sensor can't always detect the interruptor...so you get intermittent ABS lights). 5 of your 6 ABS fault potentials are at the front end...two grounds, abs wire, abs sensor, wheel-spindle bearing. Last thing (and most-expensive) is the ABS module itself. Also, an ABS fault WILL CAUSE HELL with your ITBM (trailer brake module) if you have an OEM trailer brake controller in the dash...which also isn't fun to trouble shoot, since you have to fix ALL ABS ISSUES before possibly addressing three connection points on the ITB System, as well as the Module and the TB Relay module!!! I know...I bought my truck used, with the Parking Brake light on, the ABS brake light on, AND THE ITBM problem reading on the DIC...which led to a LOT of diagnosis and parts-farming to figure out what was bad!
What led you to believe, or know, that your ABS Module was in need of repair? My 2006 Avalanche has intermittent Traction Control and ABS lights coming on and off but can't pull up any codes through the ecm.
I would check ebay, there are alot of people that repair modules with a fast turnaround time and some even have refurbished modules in stock that will require a core. Hope this helps.
Jose if I send you a picture on my 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer ABS Control Module you think you can show me which points on the board need to be resoldered?
Unfortunately no, some solder joints look fine to the human eye but can be defective where it contacts the circuit board. It cannot hurt to touch up all of the solder joints but be careful not to overheat any part of the circuit board. If you are not experienced in soldering I do not recommend attempting this repair as it could cost you more money than saving you money. Good luck!!!
Shoot him m retap with the next size up make sure you have a replacement fitting that fits orrrr jb weld n Teflon the threads so the jb doesn't stic but molds to the threads caution if you use to much jb weld it will go where it shouldn't and cause issues potentially.
Jose, very nice video. I crawled up under my 02 Av last night to access the difficulty of this process and wondered how in the world you got that third connector off. I couldn't even see it to begin to figure out how it is released. Did you lift the module off and then disconnect it?
Jose. I repaired the module on my '02 Av one week ago. I figured out that once I removed the two electrical connectors that I could see and then remove the four screws, I could lift the module off and then easily disconnect the third electrical connector. Unlike yours, my module had the little tiny screws holding it together. I re-soldered the connectors, put it back together and (knock on wood) it has worked fine for a week. Hoping this is the permanent fix. Thanks again for the great video.
I see that your ABS light was fixed, but did that fix the ABS system so that it works. You didn't test that in the video...but a hard stop would let you know from the pulsating pedal, right? Great video with clear camera work and explanation. .
I guess I'm a bit confused. What was ur problem with that module. We're guessing there was a bad solider joint and what u did fixed it. Was it a loose or cold joint.
I had ABS light on dash, the go to fix was the ABS module. Trouble codes pointed to the module so I touched up all the solder joints in the module and fixed the problem. I'm going on 3 years and the problem has not come back.
Jose Ilagan thanks ... my abs and brake light have been intermittent. No braking irregularities. Might be worth putting up t on the ramp and checking it out. By the way ... got ya beat on the mileage. Got 209 k. Later
I didn't have any brake irregularities either but I was coming into the rainy season and did not want to take any chances. When your ABS light comes on you have no ABS. Good luck!!!
My 2002 Avalanche has ABS light on but not Brake light on ,when truck is turned off the pump still stays running..I pull 60 amp ABS FUSE it stops and truck is drive-able with brakes working however now Brake light is on ...will this fix solve my problem too?
I couldn't answer that for you not being able to do a diagnostic scan on the vehicle. I would recommend to get your truck scanned and get the trouble codes to determine if it is the ABS module or the ABS pump then try the repair if it points to the module. Good Luck
Hope this helps, Good Luck ABS Light On, DTCs C0265, C0201, U1041 Set and/or Loss of Communication with Brake Module (Reground EBCM Ground) #04-05-25-002D - (06/14/2007) DO NOT REPLACE THE BRAKE MODULE. Perform the following steps to improve the connection of the EBCM Ground: ...Remove the EBCM Ground. ...The EBCM Ground is located on the frame beneath the driver's side door. ...If multiple grounds are found in this location, the EBCM ground can be identified as the heavy (12-gauge) wire. ...Clean the area, front and back, using a Whiz Wheel®. ...Install the ground, then the washer and then the bolt to the frame.Important:....It is important to use the bolts, washers and nuts specified in this bulletin. These parts have been identified due to their conductive finish.Install a washer and nut to the back side of the frame. Tighten Tighten the nut to 9 N·m (79 lb in).Cover the front and back side of the repair area using Rubberized Undercoating. An additional check can be made to ensure a good connection for the Battery Cable to Frame ground. It is possible for this ground to cause similar symptoms with the ABS as described above.
My Avanlanche has 35k on it... and I'm getting the ABS light on and the Stabilitrak light on.... Hard to believe these are going bad with such low miles. Could it just be a sensor instead of the actual module? any suggestions? Thank you
First thing you should do is have someone scan for trouble codes. Once you have some trouble codes, you will have a direction to start fixing the problem. By the way, 35k? don't you still have the factory warranty?
It's possible but I would have someone hook up a diagnostic scanner and pull the codes first. Autozone can pull codes at no charge. This should be your first step.
I got it after some playing around, this video was by far the most informative in this subjuct. Only saw two other videos on it. This actual showed the process of removing it. Thank you
+Kconley2323 hello Jose I a 2001 chevy Sep I have the bas on on my truck I all ready put the rotor and the break pads still the same what it could be hope u can help me
@@surferdown1 thank you for your time! I will try what you did. I'm looking at buying a decent soldering iron now. If I could understand what you were doing, you were just adding more solder, is that correct? Thank you
OK OK OK Is it me or are shine off the comments questionable 🤔, As the first step is look at the opposite side where the acrylic little cylinders that active the abs they should all be white 1st👈 2nd if need be open the back seal cover n only touch the ones the that are questionable not all ,. N as for soldering did we added soldering on top of old soldering 🤔. A for the people that comments Just keeping real. 100
If I'm reading this correctly, I touched up all possible bad joints regardless of whether they are bad or not. On the other note, I didn't add more solder on top of old solder. If you watch carefully you will see that I actually heated and melted the old solder then flowed new solder into the joint. This solder job is still perfect as of today, February 28th, 2024. Thank you for watching.
You are awesome. Thanks for the fix. The stealership wanted $650 to repair this. It took me around 3hrs to do. The hardest part was waiting for the sealer to dry.
You are welcome, glad it worked.
Thanks for posting this.. I repaired my module following your instructions.. Worked perfectly. BTW on a 2002 Chevy Avalanche takes a T-20 torx..
So far, this is the best video I have seen on the procedure. FIVE STARS!!!
Leon deVose absolutely!
I agree
Thank you Jose. Great repair. Your video has the best detailed explanation of the actual solder repair. :)
Thank you for the video. A little tip for you on soldering that really helped me out. It would be best to remove old solder with a solder sucker, I’m not sure if that’s the right name for it but you probably know what I mean. Then use Flux and some fresh good 60/40
Rosen core Lead Solder. The flux is going to help remove contaminants away from the solder so it will be a solid bind with no cold joints. It will also help when it comes to melting the solder you will see melt instantly. Also get you some Brillo to clean the tip. You can just jab it in the bundle to remove any extra solder or junk built up to reveal a clean shiny tip again. a wet sponge is no good in my opinion because it just never worked right for me and I’m sure there is temperature drop and oxidation from the water that is left behind. It works in a pinch with a clean sponge and purified water. but I have destroyed and had several tips in the past Break apart. Also, it doesn’t do as good as a Brillo ball would. I’m pretty sure it’s brillo it came with my Hakko soldering iron. Furthermore, try looking up hakko FS-100 chemical paste. You will use that for the soldering tip after every use before storage or if you feel you need a refreshed tip to continue with. The FS-100 is like solder with a cleaner but it removes anything from the tip that can cause it to damage your tip or get in the way of heat transfer. Check it out I didn’t know the stuff even existed. Lol You will thank me later, I promise!! I have never soldered better in my history of understanding how to solder. I always thought I knew what I was doing till one day doing some research on how to be better and more precise. Now I can’t ever see any other way to do it. Once you get that down you will be amazed at how solder just works for you on point every single time flawlessly . Like if you are a pro. Your work will be way cleaner too. Also don’t forget to use rubbing alcohol to clean up soldered parts when you are done because the flux is corrosive and can cause damage. For soldering I use a Hakko FX-888D. It is amazing and you can find all different sizes of soldering tip sizes throughout Amazon. You can find the FS-100 on there too. I hope my advice will help you out like your video helped me. I just wanted to see if I had enough heat sink compound for the heat sink spots that you see in white…
ALSO for anyone that is going to rebuild theirs don’t forget to put fresh heat sink thermal paste on those circular white spots. It’s important to keep the electronics from overheating. From my research I can only find the one I know we need to use at Auto zone. Autozone sells it in tiny packets. It’s called Wells heat sink compound SL203. If you can’t get it maybe reach out to the company and see what you can use as an alternative. It’s what is recommended for GM from what I’ve read. You have to be sure that you don’t use any other heat sink product unless you absolutely know what you are doing. Some contain aluminum or something that can short out the electronics from what I hear.
Good luck and thanks agian for the video! You got my sub and a thumbs up.👍🏻
Warning to all. I use to make the coils for several Kelsey-Hayes ABS systems and we also did several automotive modules.
Be careful of RTV on circuit boards. A lot of RTV have an acidic acid that will attack a circuit board.
I found a recommendation and attached:
Non acidic RTV's are sold by aquarium shops, and for electronic encapsulation.
The former is usually the 'easier' source if only a small quantity is required. 'Normal'
RTV's give off acetic acid, and are not suitable for use on a PCB.
Look for GE 142, Rutland 76R, and similar products. As an alternative, consider a low melting point hot-melt glue.
After watching video you could probably use normal RTV on the perimeter only, not on the circuit board
Thanks for your video - this procedure worked like a champ on my '01 Blazer with essentially the same ABS module. The Brake/ABS light issue is now a thing of the past !
Thanks for this video. I did this twice. The first time my soldering iron wasn't working well. I suspect the original solder is higher temp than what I am used to working with. After the first time I ordered a new higher wattage iron. I was still getting the code but in a little different pattern than before so I still thought the solder joints were the problem. I redid it with the new iron a couple of weeks ago. I could tell immediately that the solder was flowing much better. I now declare mine fixed.
wlsonoma Glad it worked out.
Just wanted to thank you for doing such a super job making this video. It was very well done, right to the point and not too much "yammering and repetitive comments". Last night I watched your video, went out in my garage and pulled out the ABS unit on my 02 Silverado 1500 4x4. It was mounted up inside the left side frame rail. Behind the left torsion bar. What a pain in the butt to get it out. I had to undo all the brake lines and nearly had to pull the Tcase. But finally finagled it out. I did the soldering technique you showed and BAM! No more ABS / brake light! Thanks for sharing!
You are welcome, thanks for the comment!!!
Oh wow, now i know what's ahead of me, with my 2000 Silverado 1500 4X4. Thanks to you both sharing this info!
After watching the video, I followed your advice and the repair was successful on my 02 Silverado. No more abs/brake warning lights. Good job, thanks a lot.
It working now . I had to try this fix and boy I am glad, three days no abs light, thank you Jose.
Thank you for this video. It is a problem I've had with my Tahoe for a long long time. Your video was straight to the point and I appreciate that.
This pc board is surface mount technology with components and connection lands on both sides of the board with thru holes on some connections.The automated wave solder process is not making good solder connections on the side of the board you can't see.
Hand soldering the thru hole connections fixes the bad solder joints. When you solder these joints be sure the heat melts the joint and a good solder flow will go thru and go to the other side of the board making a good connection. Thanks for this post it helped me fix my ABS problem on my 2002 Avalanche that has plagued me for a long time.
+synthoify That is correct, I let the solder flow but not too much to where it over flows on the back side. You must have a good soldering iron and patience to do a good solder job. Thanks for the reply
Was your pump running when truck is turned off that is the ABS issue Im having on my 02 Avalanche?
No, just the annoying lights on the dash.
Before you tried this how Long did you brake light stayed on???? Time frame months weeks???
@@markythunder my abs is running after shutting off ignition. I'm about to try this repair. Did you try this, and did it fix it for you?
You should do more car repair videos. It would be a better world with real informative sheit. That's good you saved that money cheers
2004 Chevy Tahoe w/160k. Mine didn't have the 6 screws and joints didn't appear to need touching up but i tried it anyway. I touched up all the joints and sealed up with rtv silicone 20 minute quick cure lightly clamping while it cured. Its been about 4 weeks and the light hasn't come on once. We'll see how long it last. Thanks for your help!
+lundy36752 I did my repair November 2014 and it is still working as of May 2016. Mine didn't seem to need touchup either but it fixed the problem. Thanks for the comment.
I completed this as described, today. It worked. Thanks Jose!!
This video saves me hundreds of dollars. THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just wanted to give a tip. When soldering, I put my elbow on the table. That helps my soldering 'hand' to be steady as a rock.
Jose, great job! I appreciate your video it enabled me to complete the job with ease and success!
I did it. It worked. Thanks for the vid!
Great vid! I had the same lights on and did exactly what you did and it worked !! Saved me hella money $$!The torx bit size is a t20
You gave me the courage to do this repair on my 02 yukon 😳🤣🍺✌️🇺🇸
Jose I did exactly what you did bro and I hit a bump and the abs light came on along with the check brake system
Check your grounds. You may have to grind to the metal and reattach. I did this first. I am about to do what this he did in the video.
Matthew Chatham did your brake lock up on you
Great video my friend. Straight to the point. Keep up the good work. Headed out to the truck to pull mine down now. Fingers crossed this will fix my abs issues. I have exhausted all other avenues at this point. Thanks again.
I got the same problem in my 05 Avalanche with the ABS. I'll give it a try. And yup, I be Choochin in my Avalanche too, LOL. Vape on brother.
Many thanks Jose. Worked great! 2003 Avalanche
Hi there, Thank for good video. Is it possible to operate ABS module with only one speed sensor? Actually, I am a student and want to present the ABS operation with single tire and break assembly using single speed sensor.
this worked on my 03 chevy avalanche thank you 🙏🏼
ground wire under driver door frame(2 wires) will cause abs light and brake light to turn on too with a abs mod code 2002 avalanche
Wish it was that easy to get at the screws on my sierra. Mine are all rusted . Think I am going to have to get the whole bracket off including brake lines
Try cleaning out the torx hole with a pick and compressed air 1st. Good luck.
Thanks José, I'll give the one on my Saab a shot.
Did you got fixed your Saab with this ? I have the code u0212 un muy Saab93 08' aero ... ABS, brakes AND EPS/TCS lights comes on after hitting bumps on the road. Thanks.
Great video
Very good video. Was your ABS on "solid" all the time? My ABS light comes and goes. I've analyzed my ABS with an Autel and found the code C1095 pump electrical circuit short. However all sensors are displaying good reading when driving I've witnessed on the analyzer. I can't activate the pump during a test either. I bet I have the same issue. Trouble shooting ABS without an analyzer is very difficult, good job.
I spend my abs Electrical ABS module to speedometer for refurbish. My rear brakes still locking up. So check your brake calibers & replace them,
eliminate the problem. Happy camper
Opa blz tenho uma captiva 2.4 2010 igual esa sua prata aí está dando código c0550 falha na ecu do módulo porém só quando começa andar ela aparece as luzes de stabilitrak controle de tração abs quando liga ligada apaga todas as luzes começou a rodar acende todo será que dá concerto esa central sou de Curitiba PR
Wow, got same color truck...but mine rusted everywhere
muy correcto su video jose llagan.lo felicito.
Exciter ring ( magnetic Ring ) may be broken. It is part of the wheel bearing and is magnetic and can only be checked by jacking up the car and checking from the back side while spinning the tire. Do a search for wheel bearing Exciter ring.
Did you not need resin ? Thanks for the tutorial.
I'm assuming you meant rosin if so, I use a rosin core solder.
Good job dude
i did exact same thing and made sure to touch it good, but my abs pump keeps running unless I pull the fuse out regardless
Can you hear it like a mild fan noise? Got used tahoe with abs,brake and check engine light on for abs and knock sensor. What comes to worst after I check all grounds,leads,and speed sensors I can have pump replaced. When I hit any bumps on freeway the truck swerves a little. Not safe at all so.thx
I want to start by cleaning the ground wires to this module but can't seem to find them.....would you please guide me as to where they're at???module is in the same spot as yours but can't seem to find them ground wires😢
It should be on the driver side frame rail
Toward the front of the truck
@surferdown1 just found one right below the driver's door latch..isn't 3 together ?
Most likely @@nessa90
Buen dia jovenes buen video gracias que con su ayuda nos vamos giando poco a poco tengo un modulo de abs que es de una ford escape 2015 da datos invalidos del modulo abs que se le pudo ver dañado en la tarjeta a este modulo mepodria ayudar
Do you think this is the problem on my daughters equinox when she applies the brakes even on dry ground you can hear the abs module kick in just out of the blue ?
What wire do you use?
Jose.cuales son defectos cuando el modulo no sirven.?respuesta porfa.
Anyone have an idea on what to use for a stripped torx head? Glad it is the one to the left in plain view and not one of the ones behind the module that would be very hard to get to. Thinking a Dremel with grinder bit.
I had to pull the whole unit then I cut a line in the torx head and used an impact screwdriver to break it loose
What size is a torque screw?
Finally a good video on how to repair that crap
I have a clogged abs going to the rears how to unclog??
Did you have to bleed the brake system
No, I did not break the brake lines from the abs motor. I only removed the pump module.
Thank you excellent explanation! GOOD KARMA COMING YOUR WAY JOSE!
found loose connection in wire connector. 2002 toyota sienna. ABS BReak lights came intermittently. Get service manual/.
Gracias Jose manana mismo tratare de usar tu tecnica ojala a mi tanbien me funcione, jajajaja ya mi inspeccion sticker se vencio ase un meeeees y no la he llevado gracias otra vez !
A question my tahoe in parese that the pomp of the ABS stuck will be control problem May I hope your answer aber if you can help me thanks
Surprised that damn dash works. I fixed more GM dashes solder joints and motors then any ABS problems...Did I mention fuel gauge fix. Replace the Fuel pump.. Really GM?
Thank you. Worked perfectly...awesome
My 2008 yukons abs module is not in the same spot. And looks different but my abs and traction control light is on and service brake light. I wanted to try this repair but with is being in a different spot and shaped different if this would still work. What year is your avalanch
My Avalanche is 2003 but the procedure should still work if your abs module has cold solder joints. I would recommend looking up some threads on the 2008 first before attempting this repair just to be safe.
@@surferdown1 I have but no one has one for 2008. I will keep looking thanks for response
I have seen videos of people using heat guns to reflow solder. Do you think this could be done on the ABS module without damaging it? I would think using a heat gun might would be possibility preferable just because it would reflow the solder on every joint all at one time. Thanks in advance for your time. Great video btw.
The Surface Mount Components would fall off, and the board would be as good as trash if you get the all the solder that hot. Hope that helps
I have a 2001 chevy lumina and it came without ABS system from the factory is it possible to install an ABS system in it.
thanks
Was the symptoms just lights on or was pump activating when it shouldn't? Mine is lights on and pump activating. 01 Suburban. Had scanner hooked up and wss appeared to be working. However did not do a low speed test.
Thats the same issue im having on my 02 Avalanche pump runs when truck is shut off , what was your Fix?
Gr8 work gr8 video. Thanx.
Just curious if the issue is still resolved? It being years after your repair
Yes, I haven't had the problem since.
Do you what torx you used? I dont have torx laying around so i have to go buy the right one
How long has this repair lasted
As of July 9th, 2021 it is still working great. I have not had the codes or dash lights come back.
Do I need to bleed the brake system after I change the abs module? Should I disconnect the black battery cable while also changing this?
Disconnect battery is a good idea. Since you are not messing with hydraulic portion of brakes bleeding not necessary
Thanks for not having some gay back round music playing the whole Damn time
Can the abs motor course the engine no to start
@@dyrickjohn5636 No
Background*
We all figured you had plenty of gay music of your own.
im havin the same problem but my unit is hard to get at
+peter ellis What vehicle are you working with? Email me a vaperdown@gmail.com and I may be able to help.
a Pontiac aztek 02
+Jose Ilagan I got a 02 escalade with JL4. got a 0285 code and dealer said my pump was shot. I replaced MPS and both front hubs. Only at low speed it drops pressure and locks up. got my EBCM out now to fix like you. Am I waisting my time?
+Ian Ryan-Martin i have seen a couple of videos on youtube about abs locking up, I would look at those videos before opening your module.
thanks for the heads up
great job with the video..what kind of solder did you use. ?? thanks for your time
Michael Nicholson I just use rosin core solder.
Did you put in those side bars yourself? If so where’d you get em? I want them hahah
Someone gave them to me, and yes I installed them.
Just look up Netflix bars for the year, make and model of your truck. Can be found every where.
Nerf bars, darn auto correct...
Jose I got a 2005 chevy avalanche that has that same problem. I actually payed for a new box and had that it put on. In all spent 800 . The problem is that I still have the light come back on after a few days of it been instaled and has not gone off. Is there something u think that could of gone wrong??
You might want to check the main ground wire that bolts to the frame rail, remove the ground wire, clean terminal and frame and re install the ground wire and make sure it is tight. That can be a problem but no guarantees. Another issue could be the ABS pump, you might want to have a shop pull the trouble codes to help pin point the problem before spending any more unnecessary money. There is a possibility that the new module is bad if it was a repaired module also. I would get the trouble codes first then decide whether to try to get replacement module or replace the pump.
Not sure exactly were that might be. If anything I'll check with tha mechanic and mention what u just told me. If my box is bad i would have to go return it to the dealer ship.Thanx ALOT for your help and video. The best one yet.
Most-likely, you have an ABS problem at the front sensors. One of three problems you should address first: the ABS lines to the hubs are cut or damaged. Second, the ABS sensors are no longer sending voltage signal to the ABS module or ECM, and third - if you have 'worn spindle bearings' that cause the interruptor ring to have excessive variance, you MUST REPLACE YOUR FRONT BEARINGS to fix the problem. This last one is a BIG ONE for Silverado owners (I have a 2500HD, and the bearing wear will cause such variance that the hall-effect sensor can't always detect the interruptor...so you get intermittent ABS lights). 5 of your 6 ABS fault potentials are at the front end...two grounds, abs wire, abs sensor, wheel-spindle bearing. Last thing (and most-expensive) is the ABS module itself. Also, an ABS fault WILL CAUSE HELL with your ITBM (trailer brake module) if you have an OEM trailer brake controller in the dash...which also isn't fun to trouble shoot, since you have to fix ALL ABS ISSUES before possibly addressing three connection points on the ITB System, as well as the Module and the TB Relay module!!! I know...I bought my truck used, with the Parking Brake light on, the ABS brake light on, AND THE ITBM problem reading on the DIC...which led to a LOT of diagnosis and parts-farming to figure out what was bad!
What led you to believe, or know, that your ABS Module was in need of repair? My 2006 Avalanche has intermittent Traction Control and ABS lights coming on and off but can't pull up any codes through the ecm.
ABS light was on and I pulled "ecbm" code
I need repair Toyota camry module any shop you know. The dealer asked me to replace about $3100
I would check ebay, there are alot of people that repair modules with a fast turnaround time and some even have refurbished modules in stock that will require a core. Hope this helps.
I just did this on mine and the old solder wouldn't melt till I added some flux.
You need a better solder iron bruhh
Jose if I send you a picture on my 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer ABS Control Module you think you can show me which points on the board need to be resoldered?
Unfortunately no, some solder joints look fine to the human eye but can be defective where it contacts the circuit board. It cannot hurt to touch up all of the solder joints but be careful not to overheat any part of the circuit board. If you are not experienced in soldering I do not recommend attempting this repair as it could cost you more money than saving you money. Good luck!!!
Jose Ilagan Thanks responding and for thr info Jose ✌
is there anything I can do if the guy who fixed my break lines cross threaded a brake line while putting it into the abs pump
Shoot him m retap with the next size up make sure you have a replacement fitting that fits orrrr jb weld n Teflon the threads so the jb doesn't stic but molds to the threads caution if you use to much jb weld it will go where it shouldn't and cause issues potentially.
Great job
Jose, very nice video. I crawled up under my 02 Av last night to access the difficulty of this process and wondered how in the world you got that third connector off. I couldn't even see it to begin to figure out how it is released. Did you lift the module off and then disconnect it?
Jose. I repaired the module on my '02 Av one week ago. I figured out that once I removed the two electrical connectors that I could see and then remove the four screws, I could lift the module off and then easily disconnect the third electrical connector. Unlike yours, my module had the little tiny screws holding it together. I re-soldered the connectors, put it back together and (knock on wood) it has worked fine for a week. Hoping this is the permanent fix. Thanks again for the great video.
Was your ABS pump running after you shut engine off thats the issue im having on my 02 Avalanche?
Jose do u think this will work on a Bosch 5.4 abs module?
I do not know, I only did this repair on my truck and have not performed this on any other module. Be careful if you decide to attempt it.
Thanks
I see that your ABS light was fixed, but did that fix the ABS system so that it works. You didn't test that in the video...but a hard stop would let you know from the pulsating pedal, right? Great video with clear camera work and explanation. .
Yes, the abs still works fine. Thanks for the reply.
Thank you for the advice on this.
Could this work on a 2007 Silverado 1500? Gonna try it out but unsure if it's found in the same spot
Sorry for the late reply. It should be in the same location.
I guess I'm a bit confused. What was ur problem with that module. We're guessing there was a bad solider joint and what u did fixed it. Was it a loose or cold joint.
I had ABS light on dash, the go to fix was the ABS module. Trouble codes pointed to the module so I touched up all the solder joints in the module and fixed the problem. I'm going on 3 years and the problem has not come back.
Jose Ilagan thanks ... my abs and brake light have been intermittent. No braking irregularities. Might be worth putting up t on the ramp and checking it out. By the way ... got ya beat on the mileage. Got 209 k. Later
I didn't have any brake irregularities either but I was coming into the rainy season and did not want to take any chances. When your ABS light comes on you have no ABS. Good luck!!!
Jose Ilagan Thanks Jose ... really appreciate the feedback .... keep that truck running. I wouldn't give mine up for nothing. Take care
My 2002 Avalanche has ABS light on but not Brake light on ,when truck is turned off the pump still stays running..I pull 60 amp ABS FUSE it stops and truck is drive-able with brakes working however now Brake light is on ...will this fix solve my problem too?
I couldn't answer that for you not being able to do a diagnostic scan on the vehicle. I would recommend to get your truck scanned and get the trouble codes to determine if it is the ABS module or the ABS pump then try the repair if it points to the module. Good Luck
C0265 Thats the code
C0265 states ecbm bad also could be bad ground any advice?
C0265 States the ECBM Module is faulty or could be possibly bad Ground any advice?
Hope this helps, Good Luck
ABS Light On, DTCs C0265, C0201, U1041 Set and/or Loss of Communication with Brake Module (Reground EBCM Ground) #04-05-25-002D - (06/14/2007)
DO NOT REPLACE THE BRAKE MODULE.
Perform the following steps to improve the connection of the EBCM Ground:
...Remove the EBCM Ground.
...The EBCM Ground is located on the frame beneath the driver's side door.
...If multiple grounds are found in this location, the EBCM ground can be identified as the heavy (12-gauge) wire.
...Clean the area, front and back, using a Whiz Wheel®.
...Install the ground, then the washer and then the bolt to the frame.Important:....It is important to use the bolts, washers and nuts specified in this bulletin. These parts have been identified due to their conductive finish.Install a washer and nut to the back side of the frame.
Tighten
Tighten the nut to 9 N·m (79 lb in).Cover the front and back side of the repair area using Rubberized Undercoating. An additional check can be made to ensure a good connection for the Battery Cable to Frame ground. It is possible for this ground to cause similar symptoms with the ABS as described above.
My Avanlanche has 35k on it... and I'm getting the ABS light on and the Stabilitrak light on.... Hard to believe these are going bad with such low miles. Could it just be a sensor instead of the actual module? any suggestions? Thank you
First thing you should do is have someone scan for trouble codes. Once you have some trouble codes, you will have a direction to start fixing the problem. By the way, 35k? don't you still have the factory warranty?
im having the same problem with my 2004 chevy avalanche but my turn on and off could that be the same problem
It's possible but I would have someone hook up a diagnostic scanner and pull the codes first. Autozone can pull codes at no charge. This should be your first step.
My abs and brakes light doesn't always stay on it usually goes always but I'll try it thanks
ABS module had loose wire connections.
How did you get the third connector off
ken crockett I just realized there is no 3rd plug, I brain farted while making the video. My apologies.
I got it after some playing around, this video was by far the most informative in this subjuct. Only saw two other videos on it. This actual showed the process of removing it. Thank you
Jose Ilagan did u have to use an extension. To get the back 2 off?
+Kconley2323 hello Jose I a 2001 chevy Sep I have the bas on on my truck I all ready put the rotor and the break pads still the same what it could be hope u can help me
True American hero
Thank you!!!
What code did you have?
Its been a few years since the repair, I don't recall the code. Sorry
@@surferdown1 thank you for your time! I will try what you did. I'm looking at buying a decent soldering iron now. If I could understand what you were doing, you were just adding more solder, is that correct?
Thank you
what is the best way to open module plastic cover without damaging it
CHRIS198490 heat gun
Thanks for the video about to pull the ABS module off and do this fix!
This fix got rid of the brake light, but not the ABS or TC light.
Thanks for the video hope it works for me👍🏼
What size torx???
John Doe T20
Nice good luck with a Silverado tho
Awesome bro
OK OK OK
Is it me or are shine off the comments questionable
🤔,
As the first step is look at the opposite side where the acrylic little cylinders that active the abs they should all be white
1st👈
2nd if need be open the back seal cover n only touch the ones the that are questionable not all ,.
N as for soldering did we added soldering on top of old soldering
🤔.
A for the people that comments
Just keeping real. 100
If I'm reading this correctly, I touched up all possible bad joints regardless of whether they are bad or not. On the other note, I didn't add more solder on top of old solder. If you watch carefully you will see that I actually heated and melted the old solder then flowed new solder into the joint. This solder job is still perfect as of today, February 28th, 2024. Thank you for watching.
nice vid ill repair mine
Its an E5 socket
Thank you!