I've worked on Volvos since 84. I quit the dealer and have my own little shop and I never had to do one. I've read and reread but it just boggles my mind, as theres not much left. After watching your video its so simple. Thank you for making this, you guys rock!
Thanks for the great video. I've been a Volvo fan since I was 20 years old. I am now 70 and still work as a Diesel Mechanic and also do all my own car maintenance and repairs. I started off with a 122S B18 Amazon and now own a 1998 S40 2.0 T and a 2006 S40 T5 that has the B52542T 5 engine. Ive done timing belt replacement on the T5, but was puzzled about doing the camshaft seals after hearing about the spring loaded CVVT hub. I have been searching for some time to find a tutorial on how to change the seals and lock the camshafts. No video explained in detail about locking the camshafts until I saw yours. The 2,0 Litre and 2,5 Litre engines look the same excepting that the 2.5 has an extra cylinder. Even the width of the engines look the same. I'll be able to make a camshaft locking tool in no time at all and I'm sure that it will fit both engines. Once again, thank you for a very informative tutorial. Through you I''l be able to tackle the job with confidence, knowing that I can't make a mistake following your instructions. Best regards, Chuck G. Hodgskin.
Thank God I cam across your video before I was going to just use a cam sprocket locking tool between the sprockets to loosen the Cvvt. Now I understand why the cam has to be locked before the cvvt is loosened and removed. You just saved me a gigantic nightmare! I bought a kit that has everything in it for Volvo s40, which is what looks identical to the engine you are using here. Not sure how to get the back side off to get to the cam yet, but I hope that won't be too much of a nightmare. Thank you so much!
Thanks for the video. Knowing that the exhaust cam position is not locked to the sprocket, and that you remove the T55 to get at the bolt, and the torque spec for reassembly was priceless.
Your video was perfect timing. No pun intended. I replace the cam seals and set the timing as outlined in your video. Work great. Thanks for taking the time to do the video. 2001 Volvo S80 T6
Put a camshaft timing tool in place. Put a crankshaft timing tool in place (or just align the timing marks of the oil pump and the crankshaft wheel). Just before putting the timing belt on TURN THE VVT WHEEL TOTALLY CLOCKWISE. That's all. Your markings on cam wheels are only "useful" for future, after taking off the timing tools. Always remember the cam wheels are just wheels, they do not make any timing job.
Just So Everyone knows when you tighten down the cvvt bolt the cam gear will move from where you initially set it.position your cvvt gear a little(very little) before the mark so when you tighten it ends up exactly at rest position mark
Good video, thank you for taking time and posting. Just to ad not all hubs will move back and fort from rest point forward and back. On some V40 hub is locked in place by spring and pin and unlocks only when spins (think centrifugal force). Please read some of comments. Cam locking tool is must $60 on Ebay
Nice video. A couple issues. First, the VVT gear on some engines (like the S40/V40) doesn't spring back, so there's no need to mark it once the cams are locked. Second the factory procedure says NOT to torque the VVT gear fully until the belt is installed and adjusted. This allows the belt tensioner to remove any slackbetween the intake & exhaust gear. Also, torque on the four cyl is 66ft lbs, not 88.
help!!! we took off the cam sprockets without making marks so the right one (with the center bolt) moved whilst removing the three bolts (we didn't have the tool so we did it our way by clamping the inner part of the sprocket whilst backing off the center bolt). how do we line up the cams properly now??? I see a notch on both cams. the left one (exhaust I think) was in line with the notch on the timing cover. is that accurate and does the same apply to the right side? please help the car won't start it cranks but no start
Sooo, Sooo simple to do. This Video and the Mechanic Instructions is simplified that an intermediate mechanic can accomplish. LoL, most repair shop wanted between $750.00 - $1,250.00 to do the job. I followed the instructions on this video to the "T" and PERFECTO! Saved me some big money. Please note; most auto repair shops will put the "Interference Engine" and fear tactics BS as the reason for the excess cost of the job...Lol, the OEM kit and additional Volvo OEM parts cost less than $250.00. If ever in doubt just hand crank (manually turn engine) the flywheel nut, hear any noise? pause the video, replay it over and over again if needed before you put that key in the ignition.
HI, really useful video, thank you!Can you tell me if im replacing the cvvt Wheel, how to Mount it corretly, i have no marks and the old one is disassembled.
when installing a new cam facer actuator I can see the can gear is adjustable 3 bolts attached to actuator when should those be move or when can be adjusted? I have a volvo that double actuator for some reason the previous mechanic took or lost cam facer is duble vvt actuator there are no marks any where ,i have the cam lock tool but how do I set up properly this actuator with out previous mark references than you for your video
I have a 2006 S60 2.5T AWD......I just finished putting my engine back together after completing a PCV replace, oil pump gasket & o-ring, timing belt, tensioner, idler pully, front camshaft seals, and Hub O-rings. I had everything marked before taking apart and all line up top dead center. After I put it back together I cranked the engine over at least 4 times and everything lines up again at top dead center. I'm ready to start the engine. However, before I turn the key all the way I turned it just before ignition. My check engine light is blinking. I can't read the code though without my engine running (I don't think I can, may try later). My question is: will I ruin my engine if I start it up? I'm thinking the Volvo has at least a sensor that would stop it from destroying itself on start up. Plus I'm thinking if I was able to turn it over 4 times then the timing should be close, at least not catastrophically off. Should I start her up?
I see in the video the engine is removed from the vehicle. If I need to do the same work with the engine in the car, how much more difficult would it be? Great vid! Thanks!
My MOD doesnt explain it this way, Im not confident Im getting my timing marks right, with cam lock tool installed, the marks on sprocket faces didnt line up with cover, my new vvt sprockiet has no mark on the face, im not sure if it was spring loaded or not, and without a crank lock tool, how can I be sure the crank gear is positioned correctly? I have it set with tit on cover between two crank gear marks, however it looks like it could be half a tooth off on crank gear. Currently getting a code 60 (cam reset) or p0017. It has a fresh oil change with synthetic, good base oil pressure 50 psi cold, replaced vvt sprocket, cam solenoid, and new belt (contitech), thanks for any help you can give me.
A great and very informative video. My question is why do you have to change these in the first place. I had my Volvo S40 2003 replaced the timing chain after it broke. After everything was done, the engine is so bad. NO POWER AT ALL. could it be that I need to change the CVVT as well. Pls help
Can you tell me if the torque for the s40 is 88lbs also, or is it 66lbs? Someone wrote on one video that the torque for the s40 is only 66'lbs. I tightened it at 66lbs. and the check engine light is on again after resetting it. The car runs great, drives fine, seems like the timing is fine also, it all aligns. The sprocket on the s 40 does not move either, like this one.
Question 2002 Volvo 2.4 turbo only has the one VVT hub exhaust side. Visually can you tell the difference between a spring-loaded and non spring-loaded hub?....mine did not spring back when removing the timing belt, And timing mark did not move..So I did not know if this hub was bad?
So when I set the exhaust cam it's at 0 and not rotated to the end stop? So the cam gear itselfs reaction position or where the cam gear sits at full advance?
I have a 2014 S60 T5 and I have the P0016 code took it to the dealer and they replaced the CVVT solenoid. But the check engine light is still on the dealer said that next step is the Cvvt Hub I’m not sure that’s the problem tho and the code is still P0016 any idea ???
The tensioner center bolt is 15ft-lb good to know because it's not that much. Too tight, and you have problems - the belt may 'walk' or not stay centered. When tightening this bolt down, often times the needle moves to the right, so may set the needle a little more to the left (cold) so it moves to center when the bolt it tightened down. The center position is at 70F (20C) engine temp. Left tab is for around 10F, right tab is at engine warmed up temperature
CVVT sprocket came unbolted from hub. Sprocket spun an unknown amount. Not sure how to line sprocket back up. If not aligned, timing mark won't show correct cam location.
Is this CVVT only on the exhaust side?? Odd. I have a single VVT but it's on the inlet side of a 2000 B5244S 2.4L ... maybe the orientation of the 2.5L (which I think you are working on) i different?
The step where you take off the timing Belt then lock the Cam gears.. Could you do this step in reverse where you lock the Cam gears Then take off the belt??? Please help thank you
Hey, what about, if I remove the vvt pulley, and I didn't make the marks, what can I do at this point, I have all the special tools, too set the timing. 2002 volvo s40. Tenksg in advance.
Great video...however you rotated the rear exhaust camshaft to line up the locking device. Do you not have to re-rotate that shaft into its original position to keep the timing on mark?
when you loosen the camshaft position sensor trigger wheel bolt on the exhaust cam (not shown in this video), it sometimes moves the camshaft which is why the cam was a little to the left. if you rotate the exhaust cam back to where it is slanted... the timing will be off. always leave the cam where it is after removing the locking tool. the notches should be inline with each other.
Thanks, nice video. Curious, has anyone came across a zero compression in all 5 cylinders even thought head was rebuilt with all new valves, seals, etc., am totally at a loss for this issue, and according to owner, car was running fine before changing front exhaust cam seal. Timing is spot on, have done a dozen over the years with no issue, but since I got this job after someone else worked on it, don't know what was done as timing was off a bit when I got it. Seems impossible, so any expert advice would be welcome, I am at a loss. I did put oil in each cylinder and no difference, no compression on all 5 cylinders. ????
If you mark the old cam pulley to head, then replace the pulley, so what are you aligning new pulley to when it was not marked, is there a reference point on new cam pulley that you are using?
How do I do this if my marks were wrong to begin with and I have the belt off?I have the tool ready to install to lock theKim's but I need to know how do I get my marks in the right position before proceeding.
HI 07 XC70 REMOVE BOTH CAM HUP AND REPLACE THEM AND TIMING UESD TOOL CAM AND CRANCK FOR LINE UP BUT AFTER DONE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON FOR P0016 CAM AND CRANCK CORPITION I DID NOT MARK CAM PLAY IS ANY WHY IS LINE IT UP AFTER REMOVE ? THANKYOU
YOU ARE ASSUMING THAT I HAVE A GOOD TIMING BELT AND VVT PULLEY BEFORE REPLACING IT. MY VVT PULLEY BROKE OFF AND NEED TO KNOW THE PROPER WAY TO SET UP THE TIMING FROM SCRATCH. I GET NO GOOD INSTRUCTIONS FROM SHOP PROGRAMS AND ONLINE HAS PROVEN USELESS SO FAR. NO ONE SEEMS TO KNOW HOW.???? ANY HELP?
I believe these are the engines in the P2 S60 V70 cars with the RN engines (2.4, 2.5 etc). These engines had VVT hubs technology. The CVVT hubs (Contnuous VVT) were rather used in the RNC engines (revised RN) used in the 2nd gen Volvo S40, V50, C70, S80, C30 Robert DIY also has an interesting video on VVT hub removal ruclips.net/video/0H5cgRYCMQg/видео.html
I LOOKED IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT I SAW OIL LEAK COMING FROM THE VICINITY OF THE STEARING WHEEL CONNECTORS AND NEAR THE TIMING BELT. WHAT CAUSES THIS AND HW CAN I FIX IT (DO IT MYSELF)??? RESPECT TAFARI FROM JAMAICA***
Hi, I did it right this way, but I also tightend the belt CLOCKWISE, like you said... now i read on Volvo Vida, that Volvo said, you have to move it AGAINST Clockwise... is this bad? Will make this problems or damage the tightener /Engine?? I need a quick respons
I have a big stream of oil coming straight up about 8 inches high with the engine running from between the 2 cam shaft pulleys. Does anyone would have an idea where is coming from? Thank you.
I took off both gears and the moved both cams all over the place and removed from the head. S70 turbo.... I am trying to find out the correct lining for the gear on the cam itself. The intake gear has a mark on the inside, but nothing is on the other one. MAYBE IT DOES NOT MATTER??? MAYBE?
Need Help, I have a 2001 v40, VVT hub was leaking oil and bought a new one. I marked timing then locked the cams with the locking tool,removed the old hub and installed the new one but issue is hub doesn't move at all. I can't rotate the hub to set the timing, I try installing the old hub to see if it was a bad hub but neither one of them move after the center bolt is tightened up. Any advice?
+AibonitoPerformance PR Hope you all ready figure it out. On some V40 hub is locked in place with spring and pin and will not move as one in this video. This type moves only when spinning meaning centrifugal force will unlock it.
i dont understand how you move the exhaust cam to fit the tool, does this mess up the rest and normal positions marked when you reinstall the hub and belt?
han nguyen Yes, but if you just throw the VVT sprocket on at the factory mark without making sure it lines up at the end of its stroke, it'd throw a light and run like crap. We figured it out though, thanks.
schweg2 Honestly we've worked on a ton of cars since then, so it's a little foggy, but if I remember correctly we just verified the stroke on the VVT sprocket was within spec. When you turn the sprocket counterclockwise until it stops then back clockwise until it stops the timing mark on the sprocket at 12 o clock should line up with the timing mark on the cover. I bought the special tool online for around 100 bucks and it worked like a champ. But making marks prior to disassembly makes things a little easier to verify you're on point.
yes, got the same problem. What if we removed the vvt pulley and didn't mark the pulleys? the vvt system I have isnt spring loaded. There isnt anything in Alldata that will show you how to setup the pulley from scratch! NO ONE KNOWS HOW TO DO IT!!!!!!!!!
did you ever find an answer??? I took off both gears and the moved both cams all over the place and removed from the head. S70 turbo.... I am trying to find out the correct lining for the gear on the cam itself. The intake gear has a mark on the inside, but nothing is on the other one. MAYBE IT DOES NOT MATTER??? MAYBE?
You need the cam locking tool, it locks the cams on the drivers side of engine... There are slots there... That gets the cams timed correctly. Once you get the exhaust VVT assembly off the exhaust cam you snug the new one down, and turn it both ways to make sure it is locked. Once it locks you use a file and white paint to make new timing mark that lines up with the cover... After that you torque down everything to specs, remove the camshaft locking tool, and turn engine two rotations clockwise and double check the tensionor and timing marks.
I've worked on Volvos since 84. I quit the dealer and have my own little shop and I never had to do one. I've read and reread but it just boggles my mind, as theres not much left. After watching your video its so simple. Thank you for making this, you guys rock!
Thanks for the great video. I've been a Volvo fan since I was 20 years old. I am now 70 and still work as a Diesel Mechanic and also do all my own car maintenance and repairs. I started off with a 122S B18 Amazon and now own a 1998 S40 2.0 T and a 2006 S40 T5 that has the B52542T 5 engine. Ive done timing belt replacement on the T5, but was puzzled about doing the camshaft seals after hearing about the spring loaded CVVT hub. I have been searching for some time to find a tutorial on how to change the seals and lock the camshafts. No video explained in detail about locking the camshafts until I saw yours. The 2,0 Litre and 2,5 Litre engines look the same excepting that the 2.5 has an extra cylinder. Even the width of the engines look the same. I'll be able to make a camshaft locking tool in no time at all and I'm sure that it will fit both engines. Once again, thank you for a very informative tutorial. Through you I''l be able to tackle the job with confidence, knowing that I can't make a mistake following your instructions. Best regards, Chuck G. Hodgskin.
Thank God I cam across your video before I was going to just use a cam sprocket locking tool between the sprockets to loosen the Cvvt. Now I understand why the cam has to be locked before the cvvt is loosened and removed. You just saved me a gigantic nightmare! I bought a kit that has everything in it for Volvo s40, which is what looks identical to the engine you are using here. Not sure how to get the back side off to get to the cam yet, but I hope that won't be too much of a nightmare. Thank you so much!
Thanks for the video. Knowing that the exhaust cam position is not locked to the sprocket, and that you remove the T55 to get at the bolt, and the torque spec for reassembly was priceless.
Your video was perfect timing. No pun intended. I replace the cam seals and set the timing as outlined in your video. Work great. Thanks for taking the time to do the video. 2001 Volvo S80 T6
Put a camshaft timing tool in place. Put a crankshaft timing tool in place (or just align the timing marks of the oil pump and the crankshaft wheel). Just before putting the timing belt on TURN THE VVT WHEEL TOTALLY CLOCKWISE. That's all. Your markings on cam wheels are only "useful" for future, after taking off the timing tools. Always remember the cam wheels are just wheels, they do not make any timing job.
Thanks. I used your technique to replace both front cam seals (VVT) on my 2004 V70R. Worked perfect.
Was putting belt on at the end a two person job?
Dude ur AWESOME! This helps me with properly timing and using the locking tool! Ur man
Very helpful, now I've clearly understood how this vvt thing works. Thank you for uploading!
Thanks a lot! This was golden when I was replacing my head gasket.
one of the best videos i've watched....instructions were on point..thanks guys
great video it still helps in 2024 on a dual VVT timing for a 2005 xc70 thanks much
Just what I was looking for. Thanks for the video :)
Many thanks for posting this one.
Helped a lot.
Answered my own question. Thanks for the video.
thanks for the torque specs! a lifesaver
Just So Everyone knows when you tighten down the cvvt bolt the cam gear will move from where you initially set it.position your cvvt gear a little(very little) before the mark so when you tighten it ends up exactly at rest position mark
Best video on this subject. Thank you
TY WM FROM BULGARIA!!!
man, I want to hug you guys as tight as the pulley nut on the crankshaft... just what i was looking for... thanks so much for posting this.
Ur the bomb brother thank u ill be doing timing and vvt plunger soon
just what I was looking for ,,, thank you
Good video, thank you for taking time and posting. Just to ad not all hubs will move back and fort from rest point forward and back. On some V40 hub is locked in place by spring and pin and unlocks only when spins (think centrifugal force). Please read some of comments. Cam locking tool is must $60 on Ebay
I'm , can only say bless you .
Finally know what to do.
Great video. Thank you.
Nice video. A couple issues. First, the VVT gear on some engines (like the S40/V40) doesn't spring back, so there's no need to mark it once the cams are locked. Second the factory procedure says NOT to torque the VVT gear fully until the belt is installed and adjusted. This allows the belt tensioner to remove any slackbetween the intake & exhaust gear. Also, torque on the four cyl is 66ft lbs, not 88.
+TheSok66 Good point Sok66 same thing with my V40. Those variations are never ending story. Did you try to take VVT Solenoid a part and clean it.
The best! Thanks!
help!!! we took off the cam sprockets without making marks so the right one (with the center bolt) moved whilst removing the three bolts (we didn't have the tool so we did it our way by clamping the inner part of the sprocket whilst backing off the center bolt). how do we line up the cams properly now??? I see a notch on both cams. the left one (exhaust I think) was in line with the notch on the timing cover. is that accurate and does the same apply to the right side? please help the car won't start it cranks but no start
Very informative!
what of if the timing belt cut, will u still perfume this process thanks for the video well explained
Great video,
Sooo, Sooo simple to do. This Video and the Mechanic Instructions is simplified that an intermediate mechanic can accomplish. LoL, most repair shop wanted between $750.00 - $1,250.00 to do the job. I followed the instructions on this video to the "T" and PERFECTO! Saved me some big money. Please note; most auto repair shops will put the "Interference Engine" and fear tactics BS as the reason for the excess cost of the job...Lol, the OEM kit and additional Volvo OEM parts cost less than $250.00. If ever in doubt just hand crank (manually turn engine) the flywheel nut, hear any noise? pause the video, replay it over and over again if needed before you put that key in the ignition.
Hi! This engine is a turbo 2.4 CVvt in exhaust cam? I have a 2001 v70xc ... its the same engine? Thanks !
HI, really useful video, thank you!Can you tell me if im replacing the cvvt Wheel, how to Mount it corretly, i have no marks and the old one is disassembled.
THANKS SOO MUCH...
when installing a new cam facer actuator I can see the can gear is adjustable 3 bolts attached to actuator when should those be move or when can be adjusted?
I have a volvo that double actuator for some reason the previous mechanic took or lost cam facer is duble vvt actuator there are no marks any where ,i have the cam lock tool but how do I set up properly this actuator with out previous mark references
than you for your video
Awesome video! Very helpful. I'm guessing this is what leaking cam seals look like?
Thank you!
Thanks very much. There are only videos of 98 volvo. I have 99 v70xc there's a difference.
nice demo but what are those 3 indexing bolts for? does it matter where they sit in relation to those slots?
I have a 2006 S60 2.5T AWD......I just finished putting my engine back together after completing a PCV replace, oil pump gasket & o-ring, timing belt, tensioner, idler pully, front camshaft seals, and Hub O-rings. I had everything marked before taking apart and all line up top dead center. After I put it back together I cranked the engine over at least 4 times and everything lines up again at top dead center. I'm ready to start the engine. However, before I turn the key all the way I turned it just before ignition. My check engine light is blinking. I can't read the code though without my engine running (I don't think I can, may try later). My question is: will I ruin my engine if I start it up? I'm thinking the Volvo has at least a sensor that would stop it from destroying itself on start up. Plus I'm thinking if I was able to turn it over 4 times then the timing should be close, at least not catastrophically off. Should I start her up?
I see in the video the engine is removed from the vehicle. If I need to do the same work with the engine in the car, how much more difficult would it be? Great vid! Thanks!
Much appreciated Volvospeed1
My MOD doesnt explain it this way, Im not confident Im getting my timing marks right, with cam lock tool installed, the marks on sprocket faces didnt line up with cover, my new vvt sprockiet has no mark on the face, im not sure if it was spring loaded or not, and without a crank lock tool, how can I be sure the crank gear is positioned correctly? I have it set with tit on cover between two crank gear marks, however it looks like it could be half a tooth off on crank gear. Currently getting a code 60 (cam reset) or p0017. It has a fresh oil change with synthetic, good base oil pressure 50 psi cold, replaced vvt sprocket, cam solenoid, and new belt (contitech),
thanks for any help you can give me.
A great and very informative video. My question is why do you have to change these in the first place. I had my Volvo S40 2003 replaced the timing chain after it broke. After everything was done, the engine is so bad. NO POWER AT ALL. could it be that I need to change the CVVT as well. Pls help
Can you tell me if the torque for the s40 is 88lbs also, or is it 66lbs? Someone wrote on one video that the torque for the s40 is only 66'lbs. I tightened it at 66lbs. and the check engine light is on again after resetting it. The car runs great, drives fine, seems like the timing is fine also, it all aligns. The sprocket on the s 40 does not move either, like this one.
Is it important to do the 1/4 turn and back before a belt change on s60r??
good install video - great information
Question 2002 Volvo 2.4 turbo only has the one VVT hub exhaust side. Visually can you tell the difference between a spring-loaded and non spring-loaded hub?....mine did not spring back when removing the timing belt, And timing mark did not move..So I did not know if this hub was bad?
thanks you !
So when I set the exhaust cam it's at 0 and not rotated to the end stop? So the cam gear itselfs reaction position or where the cam gear sits at full advance?
I have a 2014 S60 T5 and I have the P0016 code took it to the dealer and they replaced the CVVT solenoid. But the check engine light is still on the dealer said that next step is the Cvvt Hub I’m not sure that’s the problem tho and the code is still P0016 any idea ???
Do your bolts in the oval holes have to be in the limit position if you don’t have a set spot to go off of ?
hello ..got a question ..can cam variable timing be replace for a none variable one ?
The tensioner center bolt is 15ft-lb good to know because it's not that much. Too tight, and you have problems - the belt may 'walk' or not stay centered. When tightening this bolt down, often times the needle moves to the right, so may set the needle a little more to the left (cold) so it moves to center when the bolt it tightened down. The center position is at 70F (20C) engine temp. Left tab is for around 10F, right tab is at engine warmed up temperature
thanks !
CVVT sprocket came unbolted from hub. Sprocket spun an unknown amount. Not sure how to line sprocket back up. If not aligned, timing mark won't show correct cam location.
Is this CVVT only on the exhaust side?? Odd. I have a single VVT but it's on the inlet side of a 2000 B5244S 2.4L ... maybe the orientation of the 2.5L (which I think you are working on) i different?
When cams are locked, is it safe to rotate crankshaft pulley, I seem to be hitting resistance point and do not want to force it.
Will this work on a 2001 Volvo s60????????? And do i need to rotate it clockwise to set the Exhaust vvt??
The step where you take off the timing Belt then lock the Cam gears..
Could you do this step in reverse where you lock the Cam gears Then take off the belt??? Please help thank you
Hey, what about, if I remove the vvt pulley, and I didn't make the marks, what can I do at this point, I have all the special tools, too set the timing. 2002 volvo s40. Tenksg in advance.
Great video...however you rotated the rear exhaust camshaft to line up the locking device. Do you not have to re-rotate that shaft into its original position to keep the timing on mark?
good point
i think that need camshaft line up to lockind device because him rotate engine anticlokwise, cvt not rotate camshaft
I was do it before really it most rotate from back camshaft to right position you can not put it to line up
when you loosen the camshaft position sensor trigger wheel bolt on the exhaust cam (not shown in this video), it sometimes moves the camshaft which is why the cam was a little to the left. if you rotate the exhaust cam back to where it is slanted... the timing will be off. always leave the cam where it is after removing the locking tool. the notches should be inline with each other.
how to lock camshaft before trigger bolt removal?
Great video where is this shop located ?
Thanks, nice video. Curious, has anyone came across a zero compression in all 5 cylinders even thought head was rebuilt with all new valves, seals, etc., am totally at a loss for this issue, and according to owner, car was running fine before changing front exhaust cam seal. Timing is spot on, have done a dozen over the years with no issue, but since I got this job after someone else worked on it, don't know what was done as timing was off a bit when I got it. Seems impossible, so any expert advice would be welcome, I am at a loss. I did put oil in each cylinder and no difference, no compression on all 5 cylinders. ????
If you mark the old cam pulley to head, then replace the pulley, so what are you aligning new pulley to when it was not marked, is there a reference point on new cam pulley that you are using?
Mike OSullivan. Same question
When he locked the cams he had to move it a little to be even. Why he did not put it back where it was ?
One question are there any marks on the pulleys?
Where are the timming marks on the cam S60 2.5T 2005. thanks great 👍 video 📹
Does this also work on dual vvt?
How do I do this if my marks were wrong to begin with and I have the belt off?I have the tool ready to install to lock theKim's but I need to know how do I get my marks in the right position before proceeding.
Hi where do u align Crankshaft at ....TDC??
and what about setup of not spring loaded hubs? the same?
HI 07 XC70 REMOVE BOTH CAM HUP AND REPLACE THEM AND TIMING UESD TOOL CAM AND CRANCK FOR LINE UP BUT AFTER DONE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON FOR P0016 CAM AND CRANCK CORPITION I DID NOT MARK CAM PLAY IS ANY WHY IS LINE IT UP AFTER REMOVE ? THANKYOU
GREETINGS PARADOX, WHERE CAN I GET A CAM SHAFT LOCKING TOOL?
YOU ARE ASSUMING THAT I HAVE A GOOD TIMING BELT AND VVT PULLEY BEFORE REPLACING IT. MY VVT PULLEY BROKE OFF AND NEED TO KNOW THE PROPER WAY TO SET UP THE TIMING FROM SCRATCH. I GET NO GOOD INSTRUCTIONS FROM SHOP PROGRAMS AND ONLINE HAS PROVEN USELESS SO FAR. NO ONE SEEMS TO KNOW HOW.???? ANY HELP?
I believe these are the engines in the P2 S60 V70 cars with the RN engines (2.4, 2.5 etc). These engines had VVT hubs technology. The CVVT hubs (Contnuous VVT) were rather used in the RNC engines (revised RN) used in the 2nd gen Volvo S40, V50, C70, S80, C30
Robert DIY also has an interesting video on VVT hub removal ruclips.net/video/0H5cgRYCMQg/видео.html
Same process for the intake gear?
I LOOKED IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT I SAW OIL LEAK COMING FROM THE VICINITY OF THE STEARING WHEEL CONNECTORS AND NEAR THE TIMING BELT. WHAT CAUSES THIS AND HW CAN I FIX IT (DO IT MYSELF)???
RESPECT TAFARI FROM JAMAICA***
Hi, I did it right this way, but I also tightend the belt CLOCKWISE, like you said... now i read on Volvo Vida, that Volvo said, you have to move it AGAINST Clockwise... is this bad? Will make this problems or damage the tightener /Engine?? I need a quick respons
The tensioner will become damaged if tensioned the wrong way.
Shouldn't the cam locking tool be installed prior to removing the timing belt, or does this not matter?
to be safe, yes you're right
I have a big stream of oil coming straight up about 8 inches high with the engine running from between the 2 cam shaft pulleys. Does anyone would have an idea where is coming from? Thank you.
OK I am getting a banck 2 cam code. I am not sure what I could have done wrong. and it runs like poop. Any suggestions?
what about ones with 2 Cvvt hubs?
The paper I got from Volvo says to put oil on the center bolt
I took off both gears and the moved both
cams all over the place and removed from the head. S70 turbo.... I am
trying to find out the correct lining for the gear on the cam itself.
The intake gear has a mark on the inside, but nothing is on the other one.
MAYBE IT DOES NOT MATTER??? MAYBE?
face the cam lobes away from each other on number one cylinder and bolt that special tool in then your good
Need Help, I have a 2001 v40, VVT hub was leaking oil and bought a new one. I marked timing then locked the cams with the locking tool,removed the old hub and installed the new one but issue is hub doesn't move at all. I can't rotate the hub to set the timing, I try installing the old hub to see if it was a bad hub but neither one of them move after the center bolt is tightened up. Any advice?
+AibonitoPerformance PR Hope you all ready figure it out. On some V40 hub is locked in place with spring and pin and will not move as one in this video. This type moves only when spinning meaning centrifugal force will unlock it.
So I failed to rotate the exhaust hub to its limit, thats why I have the damn CEL... Thanks!
i dont understand how you move the exhaust cam to fit the tool, does this mess up the rest and normal positions marked when you reinstall the hub and belt?
i was thinking the same
Can you give us some picitures for
camshift and crank engine
why did you put the same one back on
Is this for b50420t5 2.0t?
The real question is... How do you time the VVT sprocket if you didn't make your marks prior to disassembly?
marks on sprocket face line up with notch on upper plastic timing belt cover.
han nguyen Yes, but if you just throw the VVT sprocket on at the factory mark without making sure it lines up at the end of its stroke, it'd throw a light and run like crap. We figured it out though, thanks.
***** what did you come up with to "time" it?
schweg2 Honestly we've worked on a ton of cars since then, so it's a little foggy, but if I remember correctly we just verified the stroke on the VVT sprocket was within spec. When you turn the sprocket counterclockwise until it stops then back clockwise until it stops the timing mark on the sprocket at 12 o clock should line up with the timing mark on the cover. I bought the special tool online for around 100 bucks and it worked like a champ. But making marks prior to disassembly makes things a little easier to verify you're on point.
Paul Fussell
yes, got the same problem. What if we removed the vvt pulley and didn't mark the pulleys? the vvt system I have isnt spring loaded. There isnt anything in Alldata that will show you how to setup the pulley from scratch! NO ONE KNOWS HOW TO DO IT!!!!!!!!!
did you ever find an answer??? I took off both gears and the moved both cams all over the place and removed from the head. S70 turbo.... I am trying to find out the correct lining for the gear on the cam itself.
The intake gear has a mark on the inside, but nothing is on the other one.
MAYBE IT DOES NOT MATTER??? MAYBE?
Youll need the crank locking tool
You need the cam locking tool, it locks the cams on the drivers side of engine... There are slots there... That gets the cams timed correctly. Once you get the exhaust VVT assembly off the exhaust cam you snug the new one down, and turn it both ways to make sure it is locked. Once it locks you use a file and white paint to make new timing mark that lines up with the cover... After that you torque down everything to specs, remove the camshaft locking tool, and turn engine two rotations clockwise and double check the tensionor and timing marks.
doe the cams have to be 85punds exactly ?
@@jonrobert8762
after replacing the timing belt exhaust camshaft and crankshaft will not work! exhaust camshaft will be timing over advanced!!!
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I just did this on a 2.9 Na s80. Now it won't start
MORPHEUS? is that you??
I rotate the exhaust hub and my engine started to knock
good information..but system