I just did this on my 2012 XC60 T6 r-design. A couple helpful notes I can add here when removing the out filter housing and inner seal is that you can use a 3" 1/4 drive extension and it will clear the back of the prop shaft flange, giving you enough room to get a 1/4 drive ratchet on the extension with enough room to use the ratchet itself. Also when you remove the outer filter housing, instead of heating a pick to push the through the inner plastic sealing ring, the sealing ring itself has a mounting nub that sticks out that goes into the outer housing peice. That little nub has a opening through its center that you can slide a flat end screwdriver into to pry out that plastic seal, or loop a hooked pick through it and pull it out.
For the generation 3 haldex, take note: we did a filter and oil change on our xc70 volvo Gen 3 this weekend, YOU CAN DO IT ALL WITHOUT DROPPING THE PROPSHAFT OR EXHAUST. Cut down an allen key to take the filter cover off, put 12v across the pump connection to pump out the old fluid, black wire is negative, refill, pump a little to prime the pump, put new filter in, job done. takes a couple of hours tops. Nothing needs removing except the filter cover.
@@4chankrozb yes, just do it for a few seconds at a time, keep topping the oil up so you do not let the pump spin dry, but it will clear all the old fluid in four or five cycles. it's a pretty easy job.
I tried this today and failed to get the filter out... Unfortunately I did not have an allen key to cut down. I had 4mm allen bits and a couple of very low profile ways to turn it, but I didn't have enough room for the "swing" to work the top bolt loose. If I had a 1/4" socket on a universal joint at the end of an extension I may have been able to turn the bit on there, but I did not. I settled for doing a couple of drain and fills using a fluid syringe through the fill plug, and running the motor in both directions to try and agitate and backflush as much as possible. My AWD is working again, so we'll see how long it holds up and we can try again next time... Thanks for the idea, and running the pump at least gave me a decent compromise.
@@daddygrasshopper as you've found out, there is hardly ANY clearance, a cut down key and nimble fingers will do it, but I really doubt you'll get any kind of socket in there. But you are probably right, changing fluid even without changing filter will help - our filter was very clean when we removed it, just a smear of residue.
Awesome tutorial video! It is absolutely true that some of the dealers tell the users that this procedure is not in the service plan or is not needed (“lifetime”) in order to reduce the three or five years’ service plan costs, but as a result the reputation and trust in the AWD models has shaken and a lot of secondhand Volvo owners are scared to purchase AWD models due its probability to fail. In my case S60 2.5T AWD (2006) triggered error message "DSTC Service Required" after six years (~200000 km). Official service first mistakenly recommended replacing the control unit and then the whole Haldex for insane costs. So we did a bit of investigation here with my local Volvo service. It took a while because VIDA does not guide you directly to the root of the problem. There are many subsequent codes fired as a result of this AWD failure. DEM 0006 (Haldex pump) a DEM 0007 (pressure sensor), and also BCM-0094 Communication between control units, BCM-0115 Communication between control modules, Signal missing , BCM-0148 Communication between control modules. From driver’s perspective the car behaved OK for around 30 sec after each start-up, until the error message shut down AWD and DSTC. I had to restart the engine ~30 times to get out of the snowy road in Austrian Alps, which was impossible without AWD and traction control. Long story short, it was the pump that said good bye and the oil looked horrible. So I fully recommend to replace that fluid on regular basis. As an extra step I ordered DEM cover from IPD to protect the unit from heat and slush.
My independent Volvo tech here don't even want to do it when I asked him. This video will definitely save me money. I'll just do it myself. Thanks, Yuri.
This guy treats his Volvo better than world's best mother treats her newborn baby. If I lived in Canada like him, I would want to buy one of his cars. I'm sure they have been spoilt much better than a dealer maintained car.
Nunca he tenido un Volvo pero la explicación es excelente. Pienso que debe ser instructor de mecánica, muy claro simple y directo. Muy contento con la clase de mecánica. Felicitaciones! Y gracias.
I would like to echo the praise already given by many others. Always refreshing to see a perfectionist at work and thankyou for sharing your knowledge with us.
Thanks for this excellent video. Couple points to add from my 2011 XC90: 1). I was able to do this without removing the DEM. 2) The pump did not want to come free. I had to bonk it with a big hammer against the end of a screwdriver. 3) Your tip of using a torch to heat a pick is gold! That said, I needed to pry out the seal with something pretty meaty (A T10 torx wrench). It was stuck fast in mine! 4) At 150K miles, it's probably well worth replacing the pump. Brushes were pretty well worn in mine. 5) GET YOURSELF SOME ESCO JACK STANDS!!! You are one of my favorite people on RUclips. Wood on saddle jacks is super dangerous. Thanks again!!
I just replaced all the fluids in my 2008 XC70 75k miles, I had an occasional whining noise in the transmission but couldn't identify the source so decided to replace all the fluids in Haldex, back axle and gearbox (Manual). Your great videos were very helpful and the problem has disappeared, the gear change is also much smoother so well worth doing. Many thanks.
@john jay I just picked up a 323Ci for just about free because ALL the 3 -series BMWs are defective in that instead of bolting the rear end subframe to the outside chassis rails, they bolt it to the bottom floor pan. Eventually every single one has its driver's rear and passenger front mounts rip from the car. And then there is the other nightmare job of changing out pcv valve and hose assembly. The absolutely worst engineering I have ever seen. And BMW takes no responsibility for this manufacturing defect. Fortunately there is a kit ($800.00) that can be bought aftermarket to repair this problem, no thanks to BMW.
Great video. I bought a cheap 90 degree cordless wrench in 1/4" drive that make filter changes much easier. It is perfect to get into the restricted space and does not have the power to damage the screws.
Thank you !! Completed this task today , took a morning to complete , but a definite preventative maintenance , the filter was very dirty along with the oil , 50.000miles since last change Thanks again from the uk
Just did it following your instructions. Great video!! Anyone else had problems removing the plastic cap before accessing filter? I had no burner to heat a tool and thought I wont make it... it took ages for me to remove it.
Great video. Just need to mention that the extraction of the 40ml at the end depends on the length of tube you have on the syringe. If not careful, you will extract more than the measurement on the scale as it will be volume in tube and syringe you take out. Keep making these videos, and thanks for taking the time to share.
@@diypapie8428 In your example, one is weight, and the other is volume. You're comparing apples to oranges. 40ml measured in a syringe with no hose on it versus a syringe with a hose of, say, 1ft connected... even though 40ml is indicated on the syringe in both cases, the one with the hose will have extracted more volume from the Haldex unit. The only way to be sure how much you're extracting is accurate is to measure the volume of the section of hose you're using, and deduct that figure from the amount you wish to extract. Then, extract that adjusted amount using the graduations on the side of the syringe. So, say the hose's internal volume is 8ml. You'd extract fluid until the syringe indicated 32ml, because 40 - 8 = 32. If you were to ignore this simple math and erroneously assume, as you have above, that "40ml stays 40ml" in either case, then you'd actually be extracting 48ml. This is exactly what the person you're replying to warned about.
@@diypapie8428 How do you plan to fill the syringe first without the hose connected? You wouldn't be able to *extract* any fluid that way, which is the process we're discussing... NOT putting fluid into the Haldex *from* the syringe, which is the only way that would work.
2011 Volvo S 60 T6 I can’t wait to do mine love your videos they is so much more information that you give keep the videos coming and my Volvo will last millions of miles because of you thank you my friend
Very good video. The only things I should mention is that you can easily kill the oil pump bearings if cleaning like this with brake cleaner. It is best to cover them up with plastic wrapping or something before spraying - They are not so easy to change although they are cheap from, SKF. It is also very hard to dry and clean the motor winding afterwards. I'm saying this because I have made these mistakes :S Also, while the oil pump is out you should replace the oil seal in front of the pump shaft (inside the aluminum thing with O-rings) because if that wears out and fails you get oil inside the motor then it will melt the brushes, burn the brush copper contact ring and maybe even the motor winding - this is the main reason that haldex oil pumps fail.
HI i was wondering where to get the o rings at the from of the pump. I serve the Haldex and now after one month my AWD is disabled. when I opened the pump there was oil in it, I cleaned it with Electric contact cleaner and its working but now I'm unable to find the o rings. does volvo have it or they sell the complete pump?
@@eddieroyalcars3765 Hi, sorry that I didn't come across your question before. Maybe my answer will help others in the future - the normal o-rings around the aluminum thing I got from general o-ring dealer according to the dimensions measured from old rings and the part they go around. The special seal in the front of the motor shaft could be also sourced from some better seal dealers but I got it from SKF dealer. There was part number referring to dimensions written on the old one - if not then again it is selected according to shaft diameter and the hole outer diameter where the seal sits. Luckily today 2 years later there are already full repair kits available, including all the seals, motor brushes, bearings and the copper contact ring.
@@EarlLeeBird Glad I'm not the only one who has discovered that repair kits are available for these things. Unfortunate that more don't, because those people are spending WAY too much money on new pumps needlessly. Keep spreading the word! Cheers from Canada :)
@@EarlLeeBird Do you have a link or guidance to these repair kits? My AWD went out today and I'm betting its the motor/pump. Repair kits are surely cheaper than the $320 new pump i have found.
@@BoycottRUclips Try searching ebay and google for "haldex AOC repair kit" and select the listing with correct haldex generation. For example ebay seller "awd_pump_repair " is listing these kits for all different haldex pumps. They have also listed all the o-ring and seal dimensions if you want to try and source something locally.
Good Morning Volvosweden and Volvo owner, I did work on Haldex. My car is a Volvo XC 70 08.2008 D5244T4 I started the procedure as described in your very good detailed video. But I recognized, that the Haldex of my car (see above is a little bit older) is different: I could not take away the oil pump! The housing was very close to the propshaft. Similar to your video from a video with Haldex 3. But on the other hand, my Haldex has although the filter up as the Haldex 4 in your description. I changed the filter and sucked out 450 ml oil and I didn’t lose quite no oil. I filled in 450 ml of new oil. I thought to have again the correct oil level, it must be logic, having lost quite no oil. But never the last, concerning your description, I turned around with the car. I leveled the car in plain position. My idea was, that I would have only to fill up about 40 ml, to come to the fill up level, when oil sucks out! But it was 105 ml to come to the level! Taking away the 40 ml there remains a difference of 65 ml! The question now: is the correct level by my Haldex a different level to the discribed from yours? Have I now to much oil in the Haldex? I can t imagine, that oil is "disapiered" in time. What may be the solution? I hope you understand my question. You have an idea? I would please you to inform me how is to adjust the correct level. Thank you, Birger from Germany
Great video. Clearly a most excellent demonstration and very well narrated. No annoying music. Easy to follow method from all angles. Interesting idea with regards to refitting the pump. Super informative video. Lesson learned.
Thank You a lot! The harder-to-reach filter cover screw can be unscrewed using a ratchet wrench with two extensions (a short one on the cover side and a longer one on the ratchet side) - with a movable angle attachment mounted between them).
Very good work. A good idea would be to use compressed air to clean the motor and some spray grease into the motor bearings before reassembly. And make sure the motor casing is sealed well in wet climates. I would also make a little notch in the prop flange ( one each side for balance ) rather than grind the motor. I just use a blade to clean the pump housing too because sand paper might leave some carborundum in the housing.
Great movie and tips! On my XC60 from 2009 I was not able to remove the pump because the cardan sharft „wheel“ has a much bigger diameter. But I was able to leak the oil.
Brilliant, my one is a C70 Coupe T5 Front Wheel Drive ,but this was a very informative video, I would go to the trouble of making a 200 mm plate in the floor and save a lot of fiddle fuddle so I would get to the pump and filter with ease, I'm surprised VOLVO didn't come up with the plate idea.
Before using brake cleaner remove all rubber O'rings , sometimes brake cleaner can damage the rubber O'rings ;). Great video , thanks for filming these DIY repair videos for us !
Excellent video. Thanks very much. I have a 2018 Ford Kuga AWD with the same Gen4 Haldex design (inc. The same appalling design where the filter is nearly inaccessible, and the prop shaft gets in the way of removing the pump 🤬. I'm pretty sure Ford want it to fail, just after the 3 year/ 60k mile warranty is out😡
Hy VolovSweden This video. is very interesting. You explain and show things with intelligence and benevolent. I'm going to have a 850 AWD. I will have a look to mine HALDEX. This video has given me the courage to engage the work. Thanks a lot, and applause ! Electro.
Greetings from Sydney, Australia. Well done mate. I don't have a Volvo as yet, I'm thinking of buying one..used.. just doing my research. Excellent video, clear, concise tutorial without the bloody music. Thank God ! This is how all these types of videos should be ! Good onya mate !
Good luck. I have an 09 s80 t6 awd and I have some mad grinding noise that I can't figure out in the front passenger and its happening when accelerating hard or deceleration and even if I rev the motor in neutral. I've went 10,000 miles since it started and had it in and out of 3 different volvo dealerships and they claim to not know the issue. I've done motor mounts, torque mount, bearings, and but I always replace every suspension part on my cars because I had a 97 corolla and the wheels fell off 3 times and it was always something stupid like a bushing, the fact they only have 1 ball joint on each front and I didn't know my tie rod was going to randomly snap moving under 15km/h or 5mph around that. 😢 But when the parts broke I could properly get it pulled over in time and not be holding up traffic. I'm just having a bad time with the volvo.
Finicky cars. Fragile plastic under the hood, weird bs sensors fail often (radiator anti tamper device?), and low build quality. Make no mistake, Volvo is Chinese. No matter how many delude themselves into thinking it's a swedish brand. I recommend Lexus/ Acura. Good luck
Great comprehensive videos, ive done mine twice now but i have a 2011 Ford kuga with this exact system, i have aw55 auto gearbox fitted which has the larger damper on the input shaft at the front of the Haldex which makes removal of the pump impossible as its almost touching the end of the pump, ive been looking at the design of the Haldex unit and i actually think its a design oversight to fit the pump and the separate filter in the positions they are, surely the pump and pre filter gauze should be after the filter and not before, as they are sitting in the pool reservoir of oil which has all the worn clutch dust suspended in it which when the pump operates, is drawn into the pump through the pre gauze and then in to the filter, thats just crazy and no wonder its the gauze that clogs on the end of the pump first, i disconnected my pump at put 12 volts on it so that it ran backwards for a few seconds and that dislodged the gunk stuck on the filter screen , then sucked out the oil through the filler plug and then refilled, no more fault codes after that. The first time i did it and changed the filter i cut it open, it was discoloured but not blocked, i think this proves my supposition.
I have a 2008 Ford Five500 with Haldex AWD system and high miles. The owners manual and Ford has no useful information about it. I will be using your video as a guide for my mechanic. Thanks for pulling this together.
Fantastic video! I have an gen 4 system in my A3 and cannot find anything on gen 4 servicing anywhere and think your vid maybe 1 of a kind in its depth and detail. The really annoying thing for me is that Audi think that tiny filter is "for life" and doesn't need changing. When I call parts department the filter is "not available for my car" or so they say. I know I have gen 4 as the coding is an OBR variant which as per Haldex refers to the Gen 4 modle. This will help massively. Also great idea taking pump out to clean. My pump failed (under warrenty thankfully) so want to keep the new one in tip top shape! Thanks once again. Great vid, well explained from start to finish. :)
Thank you very much. My dealer or (stealer) wanted almost 2300.. yes 2300 to do this. After I had to explain to them what the Haldex was an where it was located on the car.
It's worth mentioning that there are two flange sizes, this will only work if you have the smaller one. If you have the bigger flange the propshaft will need to be dropped.
Thank you for sharing this video. New to VOLVO brand but enjoy wrenching on my cars. This video content is excellent- clear, concise, shares all important details. Amazing! Thanks for helping fellow Volvo owners out with this content!!
Very good job with this video wow, in comparison with the people making making videos about Volvo repairs you are on the top. Good job you got straight to the video no bullcrap. And good job with the camera.
Exceptional video ! Since Opel says Haldex 4 is maintenance free, I only wish that Volvo mechanics in my area would agree to do this on my Opel Insignia with 88000 km. At first sight it's an easy job, but i guess you must have some skills to do it. And patience.
I am planning to do this with an experienced mechanic(hard to find), but I will be happy to participate/help. But that ''maintenance free'' mentality is hard to beat when your Haldex has no problems yet. I have no problems so far with my Haldex, but I understand the advantages of maintenance and that every mechanical systems produces debris due to friction and old oil. This video will help me a lot!
Nice job friend, I have a 2004 V70R :) I have 200,000 kilometres on the car now and have never thought to change the Haldex oil ! Hope it is as straight forward as this :) I will look for some more of your videos, I like how clear your instructions are 👍
+Darrin Ray Thx. I love V70R. But they age now and I wanted a Volvo that will go for light off road. I would service the Haldex! The filter and oil in it is not lifetime.
Bonsoir superbe vidéo j'ai appris quelque chose mais votre vidéo est super pour travailler il manque un pont élévateur c'est assez difficile d'accès bonne soirée
If your car has 35K on it, and the oil is THAT dirty, then my 120K XC90 V8 must be horrible! Thanks for the video. I had no idea this should be done. Thumbsup and subbed!
This is very informative, very nicely explained. I have seen three Volvo’s here in Maine that had AWD drive issues, wondering why drive shaft was removed. Perhaps the pump failed, now I see how to service it.
I had removed my driveshaft on my xc90 last summer because the carrier bearing rubber bushing failed and their not replaceable( had to buy new driveshaft to get new bearing). Reinstalled new shaft in the fall. Now, I believe my Haldex pump is failing. Hoping a new filter and fluid will do it
As always one step before me. I also migrated from S80 to XC70 /mine is P2 thou/. Poor your red S80 T6 it was happy car having you for owner. Thaks for the video, man. БУДЬ ЗДОРОВ!!!
You have the patience of a Saint to do that job lying on your back. I couldn't do it. I am going to have my Volvo dealer do it to my 2010 S80, soon. I just hope they are as thorough as you are. Wish I could hire you, instead. ;)
Great video I like the you always try to show better view of each component and light always there , when you have a chance can you show how to adjust the head lights and fog lights please Thank you and keep that good work KJ
it depends if the area where you want to put a chamfer is already machined usually, flanges of this type are fully machined so a light touch up made on machine tool is feasible if the machinist makes an accurate dialing
My 2008 xc90 awd has now 320.000KM and I have never changed any transmission or drive oil except regular engine oil changes. I guess it's time to get to it. Thanks for how to do it.
Volvo in Sweden says that the AWD system is service free, and does not need servicing. I think that you always should change out you fluids, no matter where in the car it is.
Yes, Volvo does say that but everyone out in the real world knows that if the pump and filter are not serviced periodically your AWD will likely stop working, the pump will burn out and cause the control module to fail and replacing both will cost you more than $1500, at least in Canada that's what it costs.
I work at an Audi and Volvo dealer we never service the haldex in the Volvo.but every 35k in the Audi TT and audi a3. Also were a vw dealer every 40k on vw Tiguan golf r . Don't know why.
Volvo in Sweden would also love to sell you a new car every 7 years. The AWD system is definitely NOT service-free, that is, if you want your Volvo to last a long time.
Some never XC70's and XC60's (starting from ~2011) have a larger propshaft flange with rubber bushing inside, so You can't detach the Haldex 4 pump without removing the propshaft and the flange. The cap between the pump and the flange is less than 5mm. To get the pump out for draining the Haldex (4th gen): - loosen exhausts 3 rubber joints from the rear (relax the exhaust on rear axle) - loosen proshaft 6 bolts from rear and both middle propshaft holders from body. - using the additional holes in the flange (from the rear side towards front. some versions have threaded holes to use a 8mm bolt, some don't) loosen the propshaft from the flange (it is REALLY stuck and can show up some serious resistance). - bend the propshaft down around the exhaust to pry the propshafts connector out from the flange. - remove nut inside the flange and loosen the flange. - pull the flange out approx 10mm to remove the Haldex pump as in the video. No need to remove the Tx10 pump cover bolts and no need to loosen the pump electrical side cover. Caution - read diff oil may start leaking or even flow out, if flange is pulled out too much! Push the flange back in initial position when the pump has been removed. ... proceed with the cleaning and filter change as in video. To reinstall the pump, again pull the flange a bit out. After the pump is back in place, reinstall propshaft in reverse order. Estimated extra time for removing the propshaft, if You have all the tools and a lot of strength, is about 1 hour. In overall the haldex oil change can be done, but this maintenance procedure is overwhelmingly difficult for newer volvos with Haldex 4.
really good videos. think that you are giving alot of diy-guys confidence too homeservice there volvo's keep them coming. I will be watching. Happy Eastern Holliday
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A very thorough video and no annoying music. What more could we ask for? Thank you.
I just did this on my 2012 XC60 T6 r-design. A couple helpful notes I can add here when removing the out filter housing and inner seal is that you can use a 3" 1/4 drive extension and it will clear the back of the prop shaft flange, giving you enough room to get a 1/4 drive ratchet on the extension with enough room to use the ratchet itself. Also when you remove the outer filter housing, instead of heating a pick to push the through the inner plastic sealing ring, the sealing ring itself has a mounting nub that sticks out that goes into the outer housing peice. That little nub has a opening through its center that you can slide a flat end screwdriver into to pry out that plastic seal, or loop a hooked pick through it and pull it out.
Which Haldex version was on your vehicle? 3,4 or 5?
@@timtaylor8557 4
Piece broke right off
For the generation 3 haldex, take note: we did a filter and oil change on our xc70 volvo Gen 3 this weekend, YOU CAN DO IT ALL WITHOUT DROPPING THE PROPSHAFT OR EXHAUST. Cut down an allen key to take the filter cover off, put 12v across the pump connection to pump out the old fluid, black wire is negative, refill, pump a little to prime the pump, put new filter in, job done. takes a couple of hours tops. Nothing needs removing except the filter cover.
Sounds like you can even cycle the pump with a bidirectional scanner
So you are connecting negative 12 on pump connector to start the pump and put the oil out through filter cap?
@@4chankrozb yes, just do it for a few seconds at a time, keep topping the oil up so you do not let the pump spin dry, but it will clear all the old fluid in four or five cycles. it's a pretty easy job.
I tried this today and failed to get the filter out... Unfortunately I did not have an allen key to cut down. I had 4mm allen bits and a couple of very low profile ways to turn it, but I didn't have enough room for the "swing" to work the top bolt loose. If I had a 1/4" socket on a universal joint at the end of an extension I may have been able to turn the bit on there, but I did not. I settled for doing a couple of drain and fills using a fluid syringe through the fill plug, and running the motor in both directions to try and agitate and backflush as much as possible. My AWD is working again, so we'll see how long it holds up and we can try again next time... Thanks for the idea, and running the pump at least gave me a decent compromise.
@@daddygrasshopper as you've found out, there is hardly ANY clearance, a cut down key and nimble fingers will do it, but I really doubt you'll get any kind of socket in there. But you are probably right, changing fluid even without changing filter will help - our filter was very clean when we removed it, just a smear of residue.
Awesome tutorial video! It is absolutely true that some of the dealers tell the users that this procedure is not in the service plan or is not needed (“lifetime”) in order to reduce the three or five years’ service plan costs, but as a result the reputation and trust in the AWD models has shaken and a lot of secondhand Volvo owners are scared to purchase AWD models due its probability to fail.
In my case S60 2.5T AWD (2006) triggered error message "DSTC Service Required" after six years (~200000 km). Official service first mistakenly recommended replacing the control unit and then the whole Haldex for insane costs. So we did a bit of investigation here with my local Volvo service. It took a while because VIDA does not guide you directly to the root of the problem. There are many subsequent codes fired as a result of this AWD failure. DEM 0006 (Haldex pump) a DEM 0007 (pressure sensor), and also BCM-0094 Communication between control units, BCM-0115 Communication between control modules, Signal missing , BCM-0148 Communication between control modules.
From driver’s perspective the car behaved OK for around 30 sec after each start-up, until the error message shut down AWD and DSTC. I had to restart the engine ~30 times to get out of the snowy road in Austrian Alps, which was impossible without AWD and traction control.
Long story short, it was the pump that said good bye and the oil looked horrible. So I fully recommend to replace that fluid on regular basis. As an extra step I ordered DEM cover from IPD to protect the unit from heat and slush.
My independent Volvo tech here don't even want to do it when I asked him. This video will definitely save me money. I'll just do it myself. Thanks, Yuri.
Followed this tutorial for my 2010 xc90 as the AWD was disabled. Now it's working and driving perfectly. Thanks very much👍
did you have to grind your motor to get it back in
This guy treats his Volvo better than world's best mother treats her newborn baby. If I lived in Canada like him, I would want to buy one of his cars. I'm sure they have been spoilt much better than a dealer maintained car.
Nunca he tenido un Volvo pero la explicación es excelente. Pienso que debe ser instructor de mecánica, muy claro simple y directo. Muy contento con la clase de mecánica. Felicitaciones! Y gracias.
No es ni mecánico ni instructor. Simplemente un aficionado apasionado por su volvo
I would like to echo the praise already given by many others. Always refreshing to see a perfectionist at work and thankyou for sharing your knowledge with us.
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Thanks for this excellent video. Couple points to add from my 2011 XC90: 1). I was able to do this without removing the DEM. 2) The pump did not want to come free. I had to bonk it with a big hammer against the end of a screwdriver. 3) Your tip of using a torch to heat a pick is gold! That said, I needed to pry out the seal with something pretty meaty (A T10 torx wrench). It was stuck fast in mine! 4) At 150K miles, it's probably well worth replacing the pump. Brushes were pretty well worn in mine. 5) GET YOURSELF SOME ESCO JACK STANDS!!! You are one of my favorite people on RUclips. Wood on saddle jacks is super dangerous. Thanks again!!
Thx for the tips. Will look for the Jack Stands you mentioned
Great video. Very detailed. Thanks for filling the gaps where things were not visible. I feel more confident to tackle this job now.
I just replaced all the fluids in my 2008 XC70 75k miles, I had an occasional whining noise in the transmission but couldn't identify the source so decided to replace all the fluids in Haldex, back axle and gearbox (Manual). Your great videos were very helpful and the problem has disappeared, the gear change is also much smoother so well worth doing. Many thanks.
The whine could be coming from the rear diff. Known problem.
Thanks for that info, I tow a 1600kg caravan and so far the whine has not happened again.
@john jay I just picked up a 323Ci for just about free because ALL the 3 -series BMWs are defective in that instead of bolting the rear end subframe to the outside chassis rails, they bolt it to the bottom floor pan. Eventually every single one has its driver's rear and passenger front mounts rip from the car. And then there is the other nightmare job of changing out pcv valve and hose assembly. The absolutely worst engineering I have ever seen. And BMW takes no responsibility for this manufacturing defect. Fortunately there is a kit ($800.00) that can be bought aftermarket to repair this problem, no thanks to BMW.
Well done. Thorough and to the point in both filming and explanation.. This is how all tutorial videos should be.
Great video. I bought a cheap 90 degree cordless wrench in 1/4" drive that make filter changes much easier. It is perfect to get into the restricted space and does not have the power to damage the screws.
Thank you !! Completed this task today , took a morning to complete , but a definite preventative maintenance , the filter was very dirty along with the oil , 50.000miles since last change
Thanks again from the uk
l think even the dealer won't do such a thorough job. Your wagon is so lucky to have such loving owner.
Totally agree.
Just did it following your instructions. Great video!! Anyone else had problems removing the plastic cap before accessing filter? I had no burner to heat a tool and thought I wont make it... it took ages for me to remove it.
Watched the videos on the trans, haldex, angle gear and diff and then went out and did all the services. Excellent videos!
About to do this job next week. How long did all of those jobs take combined?
@josephconnell1459 hard to say honestly.
Great video. Just need to mention that the extraction of the 40ml at the end depends on the length of tube you have on the syringe. If not careful, you will extract more than the measurement on the scale as it will be volume in tube and syringe you take out.
Keep making these videos, and thanks for taking the time to share.
Totally agree. And I did consider the length of tube.
10kg feathers OR 10 kg stones what is more heavy ... 40ml stays 40 ml .....
@@diypapie8428 In your example, one is weight, and the other is volume. You're comparing apples to oranges.
40ml measured in a syringe with no hose on it versus a syringe with a hose of, say, 1ft connected... even though 40ml is indicated on the syringe in both cases, the one with the hose will have extracted more volume from the Haldex unit.
The only way to be sure how much you're extracting is accurate is to measure the volume of the section of hose you're using, and deduct that figure from the amount you wish to extract. Then, extract that adjusted amount using the graduations on the side of the syringe. So, say the hose's internal volume is 8ml. You'd extract fluid until the syringe indicated 32ml, because 40 - 8 = 32.
If you were to ignore this simple math and erroneously assume, as you have above, that "40ml stays 40ml" in either case, then you'd actually be extracting 48ml. This is exactly what the person you're replying to warned about.
@@xyphur djeezez relax ... Its sunday morning.. everybody knows too fill first the suringe then put the hose on
@@diypapie8428 How do you plan to fill the syringe first without the hose connected? You wouldn't be able to *extract* any fluid that way, which is the process we're discussing... NOT putting fluid into the Haldex *from* the syringe, which is the only way that would work.
2011 Volvo S 60 T6 I can’t wait to do mine love your videos they is so much more information that you give keep the videos coming and my Volvo will last millions of miles because of you thank you my friend
Great video, many thanks. All I would add is to make sure that you can undo the filler bolt before you drain the system.
This may be politically incorrect to say, but i love how meticulously this Slavic man maintains his Volvo.
I think that he must be a professional machanic.
Nauta Brodic: A meticulous pro with the leaked out oil on the street like that (20:51)? Doesn't look either meticulous nor professional to me... :-(
I'd want him for a friend to help me with my XC70, but maybe not a neighbor cause dog and vegetable garden.
lol
Scandinavian not Slav
Very good video. The only things I should mention is that you can easily kill the oil pump bearings if cleaning like this with brake cleaner. It is best to cover them up with plastic wrapping or something before spraying - They are not so easy to change although they are cheap from, SKF. It is also very hard to dry and clean the motor winding afterwards. I'm saying this because I have made these mistakes :S
Also, while the oil pump is out you should replace the oil seal in front of the pump shaft (inside the aluminum thing with O-rings) because if that wears out and fails you get oil inside the motor then it will melt the brushes, burn the brush copper contact ring and maybe even the motor winding - this is the main reason that haldex oil pumps fail.
HI i was wondering where to get the o rings at the from of the pump. I serve the Haldex and now after one month my AWD is disabled. when I opened the pump there was oil in it, I cleaned it with Electric contact cleaner and its working but now I'm unable to find the o rings. does volvo have it or they sell the complete pump?
@@eddieroyalcars3765 Hi, sorry that I didn't come across your question before. Maybe my answer will help others in the future - the normal o-rings around the aluminum thing I got from general o-ring dealer according to the dimensions measured from old rings and the part they go around. The special seal in the front of the motor shaft could be also sourced from some better seal dealers but I got it from SKF dealer. There was part number referring to dimensions written on the old one - if not then again it is selected according to shaft diameter and the hole outer diameter where the seal sits. Luckily today 2 years later there are already full repair kits available, including all the seals, motor brushes, bearings and the copper contact ring.
@@EarlLeeBird Glad I'm not the only one who has discovered that repair kits are available for these things. Unfortunate that more don't, because those people are spending WAY too much money on new pumps needlessly. Keep spreading the word! Cheers from Canada :)
@@EarlLeeBird Do you have a link or guidance to these repair kits? My AWD went out today and I'm betting its the motor/pump. Repair kits are surely cheaper than the $320 new pump i have found.
@@BoycottRUclips Try searching ebay and google for "haldex AOC repair kit" and select the listing with correct haldex generation. For example ebay seller "awd_pump_repair " is listing these kits for all different haldex pumps. They have also listed all the o-ring and seal dimensions if you want to try and source something locally.
Best video of a mechanical procedure (uninstall/reinstall) I've ever seen. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent tutorial, you have followed all the critical advice from the manufacturer ( in VIDA ) and even improved on it!
Good Morning Volvosweden and Volvo owner,
I did work on Haldex. My car is a Volvo XC 70 08.2008 D5244T4
I started the procedure as described in your very good detailed video.
But I recognized, that the Haldex of my car (see above is a little bit older) is different: I could not take away the oil pump! The housing was very close to the propshaft. Similar to your video from a video with Haldex 3. But on the other hand, my Haldex has although the filter up as the Haldex 4 in your description. I changed the filter and sucked out 450 ml oil and I didn’t lose quite no oil. I filled in 450 ml of new oil. I thought to have again the correct oil level, it must be logic, having lost quite no oil.
But never the last, concerning your description, I turned around with the car. I leveled the car in plain position.
My idea was, that I would have only to fill up about 40 ml, to come to the fill up level, when oil sucks out! But it was 105 ml to come to the level!
Taking away the 40 ml there remains a difference of 65 ml!
The question now: is the correct level by my Haldex a different level to the discribed from yours? Have I now to much oil in the Haldex? I can t imagine, that oil is "disapiered" in time. What may be the solution?
I hope you understand my question. You have an idea? I would please you to inform me how is to adjust the correct level.
Thank you,
Birger from Germany
Excellent method, work, explanation, filming, total. Thank you very much and congratulations for your professionalism
This is an incredible video! Excellent job about including all details! I appreciate it!
Great video. Clearly a most excellent demonstration and very well narrated. No annoying music. Easy to follow method from all angles. Interesting idea with regards to refitting the pump. Super informative video. Lesson learned.
Thank You a lot! The harder-to-reach filter cover screw can be unscrewed using a ratchet wrench with two extensions (a short one on the cover side and a longer one on the ratchet side) - with a movable angle attachment mounted between them).
Very good work. A good idea would be to use compressed air to clean the motor and some spray grease into the motor bearings before reassembly. And make sure the motor casing is sealed well in wet climates. I would also make a little notch in the prop flange ( one each side for balance ) rather than grind the motor. I just use a blade to clean the pump housing too because sand paper might leave some carborundum in the housing.
Great movie and tips! On my XC60 from 2009 I was not able to remove the pump because the cardan sharft „wheel“ has a much bigger diameter. But I was able to leak the oil.
Thanks for showing the Haldex 3,4,5 generations. The starting point for ordering parts is to ID the gen. #
Or just use your VIN ;)
Brilliant, my one is a C70 Coupe T5 Front Wheel Drive ,but this was a very informative video, I would go to the trouble of making a 200 mm plate in the floor and save a lot of fiddle fuddle so I would get to the pump and filter with ease, I'm surprised VOLVO didn't come up with the plate idea.
Great video very well explained and easy to understand even with a basic level of English.
greetings from Spain
One of the best videos I have seen ever. Well done. Really makes me happy I have two Volvo 240s. So simple.
Before using brake cleaner remove all rubber O'rings , sometimes brake cleaner can damage the rubber O'rings ;). Great video , thanks for filming these DIY repair videos for us !
Excellent video. Thanks very much.
I have a 2018 Ford Kuga AWD with the same Gen4 Haldex design (inc. The same appalling design where the filter is nearly inaccessible, and the prop shaft gets in the way of removing the pump 🤬.
I'm pretty sure Ford want it to fail, just after the 3 year/ 60k mile warranty is out😡
Hy VolovSweden
This video. is very interesting. You explain and show things with intelligence and benevolent. I'm going to have a 850 AWD. I will have a look to mine HALDEX. This video has given me the courage to engage the work. Thanks a lot, and applause ! Electro.
Greetings from Sydney, Australia. Well done mate. I don't have a Volvo as yet, I'm thinking of buying one..used.. just doing my research. Excellent video, clear, concise tutorial without the bloody music. Thank God ! This is how all these types of videos should be ! Good onya mate !
Good luck. I have an 09 s80 t6 awd and I have some mad grinding noise that I can't figure out in the front passenger and its happening when accelerating hard or deceleration and even if I rev the motor in neutral. I've went 10,000 miles since it started and had it in and out of 3 different volvo dealerships and they claim to not know the issue. I've done motor mounts, torque mount, bearings, and but I always replace every suspension part on my cars because I had a 97 corolla and the wheels fell off 3 times and it was always something stupid like a bushing, the fact they only have 1 ball joint on each front and I didn't know my tie rod was going to randomly snap moving under 15km/h or 5mph around that. 😢 But when the parts broke I could properly get it pulled over in time and not be holding up traffic. I'm just having a bad time with the volvo.
Finicky cars. Fragile plastic under the hood, weird bs sensors fail often (radiator anti tamper device?), and low build quality. Make no mistake, Volvo is Chinese. No matter how many delude themselves into thinking it's a swedish brand. I recommend Lexus/ Acura. Good luck
Great comprehensive videos, ive done mine twice now but i have a 2011 Ford kuga with this exact system, i have aw55 auto gearbox fitted which has the larger damper on the input shaft at the front of the Haldex which makes removal of the pump impossible as its almost touching the end of the pump, ive been looking at the design of the Haldex unit and i actually think its a design oversight to fit the pump and the separate filter in the positions they are, surely the pump and pre filter gauze should be after the filter and not before, as they are sitting in the pool reservoir of oil which has all the worn clutch dust suspended in it which when the pump operates, is drawn into the pump through the pre gauze and then in to the filter, thats just crazy and no wonder its the gauze that clogs on the end of the pump first, i disconnected my pump at put 12 volts on it so that it ran backwards for a few seconds and that dislodged the gunk stuck on the filter screen , then sucked out the oil through the filler plug and then refilled, no more fault codes after that. The first time i did it and changed the filter i cut it open, it was discoloured but not blocked, i think this proves my supposition.
I have a 2008 Ford Five500 with Haldex AWD system and high miles.
The owners manual and Ford has no useful information about it.
I will be using your video as a guide for my mechanic.
Thanks for pulling this together.
+Dana Clark Excellent. Its the same system for sure.
interesting; i wonder how Ford shops service the five hundred!
Fantastic video! I have an gen 4 system in my A3 and cannot find anything on gen 4 servicing anywhere and think your vid maybe 1 of a kind in its depth and detail. The really annoying thing for me is that Audi think that tiny filter is "for life" and doesn't need changing. When I call parts department the filter is "not available for my car" or so they say. I know I have gen 4 as the coding is an OBR variant which as per Haldex refers to the Gen 4 modle. This will help massively. Also great idea taking pump out to clean. My pump failed (under warrenty thankfully) so want to keep the new one in tip top shape! Thanks once again. Great vid, well explained from start to finish. :)
+Nicholas Dambrosio Glad this helps you.
Thank you very much.
My dealer or (stealer) wanted almost 2300.. yes 2300 to do this. After I had to explain to them what the Haldex was an where it was located on the car.
Thanks for this video. I followed your cleaning advice of my Haldex motor and revived the pump. Much appreciated.
Good video. Too bad Volvo didn't have the knowledge to make the pump housing a bit smaller. Good improvement on your part for future servicing.
Thank you for very informative tasks, excellent video. Spasiba !
Thanks for your useful and easy to follow videos on the mysteries of Volvo AWD. I will be trying it out on my immaculate 2002 V70 later today.
It's worth mentioning that there are two flange sizes, this will only work if you have the smaller one. If you have the bigger flange the propshaft will need to be dropped.
The hot needle for the Filter..Great Tip! I Love it
Thank you for sharing this video. New to VOLVO brand but enjoy wrenching on my cars. This video content is excellent- clear, concise, shares all important details. Amazing! Thanks for helping fellow Volvo owners out with this content!!
16:02 There is a drain.
The bolt to the left of the motor & below the control module is the drain plug.
So you dont have to remove the pump?
This isn't true, there is no drain port.
@@Reltens
When I serviced my Haldex on my 04 S60R I used this drain port.
U mnie był zapieczony dekielek od filtra i sama pompka. Ale po wielu próbach w końcu się udało.
i just want to add that this works with the ford freestyle too. cool tutorial super intuitive
Thx so much. Did not know that.
Excellent production value. You don't drive many miles. Volvo should put an access door in the floor to get at the filter.
Brilliant, certainly the best informative video one could ever get on this operation. ***********
Very good job with this video wow, in comparison with the people making making videos about Volvo repairs you are on the top. Good job you got straight to the video no bullcrap. And good job with the camera.
very impressed with your video and systematic instruction.
+James C Thx.
Exceptional video ! Since Opel says Haldex 4 is maintenance free, I only wish that Volvo mechanics in my area would agree to do this on my Opel Insignia with 88000 km. At first sight it's an easy job, but i guess you must have some skills to do it. And patience.
+lbanias Any shop could do it. If you never did maintenance on your car then dont do this.
+lbanias Any shop could do it. If you never did maintenance on your car then dont do this.
I am planning to do this with an experienced mechanic(hard to find), but I will be happy to participate/help. But that ''maintenance free'' mentality is hard to beat when your Haldex has no problems yet. I have no problems so far with my Haldex, but I understand the advantages of maintenance and that every mechanical systems produces debris due to friction and old oil. This video will help me a lot!
отличная работа, вы много вкладываете в свои видео. Спасибо
Спасибо большое!
Nice job friend, I have a 2004 V70R :)
I have 200,000 kilometres on the car now and have never thought to change the Haldex oil !
Hope it is as straight forward as this :)
I will look for some more of your videos, I like how clear your instructions are 👍
+Darrin Ray Thx. I love V70R. But they age now and I wanted a Volvo that will go for light off road. I would service the Haldex! The filter and oil in it is not lifetime.
Im planning to get v70t5r as well, what gen haldex they use?
Bonsoir superbe vidéo j'ai appris quelque chose mais votre vidéo est super pour travailler il manque un pont élévateur c'est assez difficile d'accès bonne soirée
Great video buddy - thanks for taking so much time to shoot everything correctly.
Good movie, learned a lot of mechanical things, regarding Haldex.
Great video, lighting, commentary, slow motion...really in-depth tutorial!
+Hunter Lee Did my best. Thx
If your car has 35K on it, and the oil is THAT dirty, then my 120K XC90 V8 must be horrible! Thanks for the video. I had no idea this should be done. Thumbsup and subbed!
absurd!
it's still under warranty!
These are such good, clear and useful videos, thank you very much
Great instructional video on Haldex service, well explained and handy tips.
Escellent video. Very good filming and speaking. I even don't have Haldex - just wanted to see how it is constucted.
This is very informative, very nicely explained. I have seen three Volvo’s here in Maine that had AWD drive issues, wondering why drive shaft was removed. Perhaps the pump failed, now I see how to service it.
I had removed my driveshaft on my xc90 last summer because the carrier bearing rubber bushing failed and their not replaceable( had to buy new driveshaft to get new bearing). Reinstalled new shaft in the fall. Now, I believe my Haldex pump is failing. Hoping a new filter and fluid will do it
How do you determine that the pump is failing?
Of course I like your explanation with the very clear & quite talking.
Excellent video, and quality image with lighting !!! good work !!!
As always one step before me. I also migrated from S80 to XC70 /mine is P2 thou/. Poor your red S80 T6 it was happy car having you for owner. Thaks for the video, man. БУДЬ ЗДОРОВ!!!
Спасибо. S80 was my previous baby Volvo.
MErci beaucoup pour cette chaine youtube !!!! très très utile et profesionnel !
You have the patience of a Saint to do that job lying on your back. I couldn't do it. I am going to have my Volvo dealer do it to my 2010 S80, soon. I just hope they are as thorough as you are. Wish I could hire you, instead. ;)
I usually can’t stand people’s videos, but you did a great job including and filming everything! Thank you!
Great video I like the you always try to show better view of each component and light always there , when you have a chance can you show how to adjust the head lights and fog lights please
Thank you and keep that good work
KJ
Good video.
In D5 h4, you need to drop the shaft to remove the pump and have access to the filter.
Just for information.
Master mechanic. Brilliant video.
best video ever!!!!!!!! everything explained. thank you!
really helpful, well done, good job
Excellent video,clear and well explained.
Maybe taking a chamfer from the drive flange would have been better than grinding the pump.
Tam.
it depends if the area where you want to put a chamfer is already machined
usually, flanges of this type are fully machined so a light touch up made on machine tool is feasible if the machinist makes an accurate dialing
I Do not own a Volvo but love your vids, very detailed and excellent quality.
Brilliant, kompliment. Děkuji. Spasiba. Thanks. !!! J.
My 2008 xc90 awd has now 320.000KM and I have never changed any transmission or drive oil except regular engine oil changes. I guess it's time to get to it. Thanks for how to do it.
Volvo in Sweden says that the AWD system is service free, and does not need servicing. I think that you always should change out you fluids, no matter where in the car it is.
Yes, Volvo does say that but everyone out in the real world knows that if the pump and filter are not serviced periodically your AWD will likely stop working, the pump will burn out and cause the control module to fail and replacing both will cost you more than $1500, at least in Canada that's what it costs.
Exactly.
I work at an Audi and Volvo dealer we never service the haldex in the Volvo.but every 35k in the Audi TT and audi a3. Also were a vw dealer every 40k on vw Tiguan golf r . Don't know why.
Volvo in Sweden would also love to sell you a new car every 7 years. The AWD system is definitely NOT service-free, that is, if you want your Volvo to last a long time.
Well, my AWD on my S60R gave out because of it 😂 obviously needs service
Haldex, sounds like a type of fire extinguisher.
Best video, in brazil the problem critic in model land rover and volvo, thank you
Good video! i dont have haldex issues but loved to watched it.
I haven't got a Volvo but this is a very well made video.
keep up the good work bro,really appreciate your efforts...
1st class how to. Many thanks from Perth Aust.
Very well explained and easy to follow, many thanks for posting. Great job.
Some never XC70's and XC60's (starting from ~2011) have a larger propshaft flange with rubber bushing inside, so You can't detach the Haldex 4 pump without removing the propshaft and the flange. The cap between the pump and the flange is less than 5mm.
To get the pump out for draining the Haldex (4th gen):
- loosen exhausts 3 rubber joints from the rear (relax the exhaust on rear axle)
- loosen proshaft 6 bolts from rear and both middle propshaft holders from body.
- using the additional holes in the flange (from the rear side towards front. some versions have threaded holes to use a 8mm bolt, some don't) loosen the propshaft from the flange (it is REALLY stuck and can show up some serious resistance).
- bend the propshaft down around the exhaust to pry the propshafts connector out from the flange.
- remove nut inside the flange and loosen the flange.
- pull the flange out approx 10mm to remove the Haldex pump as in the video. No need to remove the Tx10 pump cover bolts and no need to loosen the pump electrical side cover. Caution - read diff oil may start leaking or even flow out, if flange is pulled out too much! Push the flange back in initial position when the pump has been removed.
... proceed with the cleaning and filter change as in video.
To reinstall the pump, again pull the flange a bit out. After the pump is back in place, reinstall propshaft in reverse order.
Estimated extra time for removing the propshaft, if You have all the tools and a lot of strength, is about 1 hour.
In overall the haldex oil change can be done, but this maintenance procedure is overwhelmingly difficult for newer volvos with Haldex 4.
Yeah, I couldn't take my pump off, I guess my flange is larger than in the video, I have 2009 XC70 though...😕 I used a pump to suck the oil out.
@@Reltens Did you suck the oil out through the filler nut/port? Thanks.
@@chriswernke4824 Yeah
You have the patience of a saint
Excellent video, and so well shot! You have saved us many £s or Euros. Thank you for sharing!
+Juney Jonigk Thx!
Very good video. Very well done. Thank you very much for posting this.
If only all videos on here were this clear!
Very very good instructions and easy to understand👍 thank you and ceep up the good work🤟😀
Great video ..greetings from Australia 👋😊
Ah excellent series of videos. Thank you.
really good videos. think that you are giving alot of diy-guys confidence too homeservice there volvo's keep them coming. I will be watching. Happy Eastern Holliday
+Robert Öberg Thank you!
volvosweden
Volvo rear axle
I envy your Patience! 🙌🏻