Hi Dave what’s the timing belt interval on the Volvo xc90 2010 185 D5 , u might know this car more then me, I have 113.000 miles , but no history of it dealer said was change around 70000 miles , thank you
Im want to say big Thanks for so useful video,you took so clear view of everything you was unscrewed, amazing to see, thanks and good luck, I had exactly the same issue,thank again🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝
Thanks for enlightning me on the works of the system, I have an 2014 XC90 D5 AWD 6-speed automatic that has started to shudder slightly at highwayspeeds after driving it for some 30km or more, it isn't allways present, more like after some road turn it is more present like propshafts or driveaxles align in a bad balance way, I have no clicks from drivejoints. The car has less than 208000km on the clock and I'm the second owner, bought it last year with 170000km on it. I would very much like to do what they call a Taxi service on the transmission. This video surely showed me much of what can be done. Thanks.
really good video dave brilliant job, i do hope you got a new plastic part for the lid with the febi kit, wasnt that a load of fun for you, we have 2010 xc90 r-design and we did our haldex last year what a ball ache the job is ...but very satisfying when completed....
I had the dreaded "anti-skid service required" with the ABS0094 & CEM1A64 error codes. This was a dead DEM so I sent it off to Volvo Diagnostic in Tilbury, UK to be reconditioned. Mine was beyond repair so I had to get a recondtioned DEM. It cost me about £300 but it was money well spent as it restored my Haldex unit to full working order and once the codes were cleared they didn't come back. I've also had an unusual failure with my bevel gear. The rear bearing had collapsed. I found a used replacement on eBay for £200 delivered against about £1400 from the dealer.
Volvo recommend a haldex service every 15 k miles and just. Oil drain then insert 700 ml of oil. Also if you get a. Recon haldex from vw or volvo. They dont clean lut the accumulate r so you will get the problem again with astuck or clogged accu piston.
15k Miles, never heard anybody stating that interval. Accumulater is non serviceable and non replaceable so a Recon with a bad Accumulater will be no different which we have found to happen. I thought I covered this in the video
@@davesterl Dave , I worked for vw in Emden for 15 years and it was common knowledge then that a service was to be carried out regularly. Unfortunately neither Volvo or vw put this in their service schedule. Regular service ie filter and oil change stops the crud blocking up the oilways. Your video is one of the best I have seen.
Excellent detailed video tutorial. If I understood English correctly, you said that in Freelander 2 the software is set to lower pressure? If so, that explains why Land Rover says to pump out more oil. There is less oil in the accumulator and the operating oil level is the same.
No, i didn't say that. Pressure remains the same in the accumulator. What i said is the software update is a workaround fix for the clutch latching problem that reduces the opening duty of the spool valve. Nothing to do with the different levels. The difference between the levels is 30ml, which is very little.
Great video!!! Out of interest, is it actually possible to remove the prop shaft off and turn it into 2wd without triggering various traction control and other codes?
Cut a very long story short, I took a diff/Haldex out of my old 2008 XC and put it in current 2009 XC, not realising that the 2008 Diff/Haldex is Generation 3, not 4 which was in the 2009 XC. Anyway, all going fine with the GEN 3 in the 2009 until high speed under load at 65/70 mph 2000 revs when I get vibration under the car from what I believe is coming through the prop from Diff/Haldex. area…. I have seen online that an actual Gen 4 Haldex & Gen 3 Haldex are interchangeable even though they are both different on the outside, so can I swap as either Haldex wasn’t the initial problem in the first place?? The dimension for fitting on to the diff casing are the same, but slightly concerned that both Haldexs are different on the inside as regards fitting? Any thoughts appreciated!! Also slight vibration at slower speeds under load!
Well done, annoying that you had to take the prop flange off but it did give you better access to the filter. (I bet you watched Volvosweden video too). Looks a good idea to blow as much fluid out as possible, which the other people did not. No idea but I bet the fluid stays cleaner when the car is mostly used in mild conditions, I bet most of the contamination is from the clutch plates. I have seen videos of Scandinavia cars with much lower mileage with the fluid coming out a lot worse than this one. As for the software with reduced duty cycle, I got the impression that controller modules were dying from energising the solenoids at full duty cycle for too long but I don't know. I bet this car continues fine now, would not take much of a contaminant to creep past that valve at 30bar. Great video, thank you
The software update has nothing to do with control modules dying. The reduced duty cycle is to not open the valve as much. Contaminant blocks the PRV at the end of the accumulator so as it does not relieve at 30bar.
@@davesterl Ok, I know on some of the volvo forums there have been theories about excessive pump motor run time with blocked filters. Anyway I guess reduced valve travel might help with shock loadings or something....slowing the clutch engagement down?
The reduced duty cycle is on the N373 valve not the motor so less oil to the clutch pack. Blocked strainers on the GEN5(the ones with no filter) do increase the current demand from the motor, nothing to do with run time. I proved this in a GEN5 video i did
horrible job that xc90 dave should have had 3 haldex services so far in its life and that is why when you undone the haldex pump no oil pissed ot it should have done as the oil goes thru the pump aswell, unscrewing the pump is just another way of emptying the haldex oil, you will see later when you come to change thehaldex filter bet its full of crap.....
Oil flew out when i released the pump as shown in the video. Yes, oil goes thru the pump as it is the oil pump. Pump needs to be released as there is no drain port, so it is not just another way. I showed the old filter in the oil catch tray.
I took the pump out of mine a few weeks ago. You can remove pump on an R-design without removing exhaust and prop.Remove pump housing bolts as shown then remove the 2 pump main bolts. lever either side of pump until seal gives and pump will slowly come out. As you slide pump out, slide pump cover a few mill off pump and angle cover away from prop flange This will give you just enough play to slide complete unit out in one. Its tight and awkward so take your time. Ps use a small pick to clean out Allen key bolts first and have a small pair of mole grips at hand to clamp on the head of bolts if the Allen key feels like its going round off.
@@davesterl fair enough. Just a thought. GREAT VIDEO . KEEP IT UP I'm having a ball ach with mine at moment. Volvo won't do more than 10 mph unless I disconnect the heldex brain. Drives fine disconnected but ABS,TC,SC and brake warning comes on. So getting the haldex brain checked is next. Only found 1 company in UK that will touch a heldex 4 ecu based in Crewe. Ps. Thanks for the tip on the front diff where exhaust heats it up and dries the grease out. I have a small grinding noise on any right hand turn. So that's my next job . Cheers
I have an xc90 D5 and I hear a continuous UUUUUU(rust...) under traction... which disappears when I release the accelerator pedal... could it be the differential?
карданный вал зря снимал. насос снимается без снятия вала. It was a waste of time to remove the driveshaft. the pump can be removed without removing the shaft.
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Hi Dave what’s the timing belt interval on the Volvo xc90 2010 185 D5 , u might know this car more then me, I have 113.000 miles , but no history of it dealer said was change around 70000 miles , thank you
Great Video. Keep those old motors going.
That was a lot of work, nice job explaining the process Dave & thanks for sharing!
You don’t give up easily Dave. Not at all. Such a joy to watch. Thanks again! 🙏
Best haldex service video on t'internet
Very interesting. Bit of a thought tackling the Haldex considering it’s 300k miles and not been touched from build. Nice job.
That was a really comprehensive repair video Dave, really handy for anyone doing a Gen 4 service. Some great tips, well done 💪💪
Loads of very helpful information as always Dave … thank you 👍
Very interesting explanation of a part that I hardly knew existed.
Thanks Dave!
Big motor is in good shape for the miles. Excellent work as always Dave
Im want to say big Thanks for so useful video,you took so clear view of everything you was unscrewed, amazing to see, thanks and good luck, I had exactly the same issue,thank again🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝
Your videos are some of the best on the internet- thanks and keeping on making them just as you are.
Thanks for enlightning me on the works of the system, I have an 2014 XC90 D5 AWD 6-speed automatic that has started to shudder slightly at highwayspeeds after driving it for some 30km or more, it isn't allways present, more like after some road turn it is more present like propshafts or driveaxles align in a bad balance way, I have no clicks from drivejoints. The car has less than 208000km on the clock and I'm the second owner, bought it last year with 170000km on it. I would very much like to do what they call a Taxi service on the transmission. This video surely showed me much of what can be done. Thanks.
LOL - Loved the click - been there done that - Excellent vid bro! :)
really good video dave brilliant job, i do hope you got a new plastic part for the lid with the febi kit, wasnt that a load of fun for you, we have 2010 xc90 r-design and we did our haldex last year what a ball ache the job is ...but very satisfying when completed....
new plastic part as stated in the video
He pulled the pump cover only instead of pulling the pump from the base, that brought him to remove the flange but he didn't need to remove it.
@@Geosso-qr6en Nonsense
I had the dreaded "anti-skid service required" with the ABS0094 & CEM1A64 error codes. This was a dead DEM so I sent it off to Volvo Diagnostic in Tilbury, UK to be reconditioned. Mine was beyond repair so I had to get a recondtioned DEM. It cost me about £300 but it was money well spent as it restored my Haldex unit to full working order and once the codes were cleared they didn't come back. I've also had an unusual failure with my bevel gear. The rear bearing had collapsed. I found a used replacement on eBay for £200 delivered against about £1400 from the dealer.
Good tutorial. Thanks 👍
Volvo recommend a haldex service every 15 k miles and just. Oil drain then insert 700 ml of oil. Also if you get a. Recon haldex from vw or volvo. They dont clean lut the accumulate r so you will get the problem again with astuck or clogged accu piston.
15k Miles, never heard anybody stating that interval. Accumulater is non serviceable and non replaceable so a Recon with a bad Accumulater will be no different which we have found to happen. I thought I covered this in the video
@@davesterl Dave , I worked for vw in Emden for 15 years and it was common knowledge then that a service was to be carried out regularly. Unfortunately neither Volvo or vw put this in their service schedule. Regular service ie filter and oil change stops the crud blocking up the oilways. Your video is one of the best I have seen.
Excellent detailed video tutorial.
If I understood English correctly, you said that in Freelander 2 the software is set to lower pressure?
If so, that explains why Land Rover says to pump out more oil. There is less oil in the accumulator and the operating oil level is the same.
No, i didn't say that. Pressure remains the same in the accumulator. What i said is the software update is a workaround fix for the clutch latching problem that reduces the opening duty of the spool valve. Nothing to do with the different levels. The difference between the levels is 30ml, which is very little.
sweet how the hell do you have all this info . Thanks for sharing👍
Cracking video, good job
Great video!!!
Out of interest, is it actually possible to remove the prop shaft off and turn it into 2wd without triggering various traction control and other codes?
Top job dave , very well explained repairs , does Poppy want to go in the body repair business, as some body repairers look like they use play doh😂😂😂
Lol Mike, i wondered why she wanted so much playdoh
Cut a very long story short, I took a diff/Haldex out of my old 2008 XC and put it in current 2009 XC, not realising that the 2008 Diff/Haldex is Generation 3, not 4 which was in the 2009 XC. Anyway, all going fine with the GEN 3 in the 2009 until high speed under load at 65/70 mph 2000 revs when I get vibration under the car from what I believe is coming through the prop from Diff/Haldex. area…. I have seen online that an actual Gen 4 Haldex & Gen 3 Haldex are interchangeable even though they are both different on the outside, so can I swap as either Haldex wasn’t the initial problem in the first place?? The dimension for fitting on to the diff casing are the same, but slightly concerned that both Haldexs are different on the inside as regards fitting? Any thoughts appreciated!! Also slight vibration at slower speeds under load!
Well done, annoying that you had to take the prop flange off but it did give you better access to the filter. (I bet you watched Volvosweden video too). Looks a good idea to blow as much fluid out as possible, which the other people did not.
No idea but I bet the fluid stays cleaner when the car is mostly used in mild conditions, I bet most of the contamination is from the clutch plates. I have seen videos of Scandinavia cars with much lower mileage with the fluid coming out a lot worse than this one.
As for the software with reduced duty cycle, I got the impression that controller modules were dying from energising the solenoids at full duty cycle for too long but I don't know.
I bet this car continues fine now, would not take much of a contaminant to creep past that valve at 30bar.
Great video, thank you
The software update has nothing to do with control modules dying. The reduced duty cycle is to not open the valve as much. Contaminant blocks the PRV at the end of the accumulator so as it does not relieve at 30bar.
@@davesterl Ok, I know on some of the volvo forums there have been theories about excessive pump motor run time with blocked filters. Anyway I guess reduced valve travel might help with shock loadings or something....slowing the clutch engagement down?
The reduced duty cycle is on the N373 valve not the motor so less oil to the clutch pack. Blocked strainers on the GEN5(the ones with no filter) do increase the current demand from the motor, nothing to do with run time. I proved this in a GEN5 video i did
Great video,, where are you based dave, I'm in NI also, I need a good volvo man
horrible job that xc90 dave should have had 3 haldex services so far in its life and that is why when you undone the haldex pump no oil pissed ot it should have done as the oil goes thru the pump aswell, unscrewing the pump is just another way of emptying the haldex oil, you will see later when you come to change thehaldex filter bet its full of crap.....
Oil flew out when i released the pump as shown in the video. Yes, oil goes thru the pump as it is the oil pump. Pump needs to be released as there is no drain port, so it is not just another way. I showed the old filter in the oil catch tray.
got you great job@@davesterl
what video wer u watching???
You're an animal Dave 🤣🤣
I took the pump out of mine a few weeks ago. You can remove pump on an R-design without removing exhaust and prop.Remove pump housing bolts as shown then remove the 2 pump main bolts. lever either side of pump until seal gives and pump will slowly come out. As you slide pump out, slide pump cover a few mill off pump and angle cover away from prop flange This will give you just enough play to slide complete unit out in one. Its tight and awkward so take your time. Ps use a small pick to clean out Allen key bolts first and have a small pair of mole grips at hand to clamp on the head of bolts if the Allen key feels like its going round off.
No chance in this case, you'll bend the armature. Flange removal gives a better chance of a good clean out as this is not just an ordinary service.
@@davesterl fair enough. Just a thought. GREAT VIDEO . KEEP IT UP
I'm having a ball ach with mine at moment. Volvo won't do more than 10 mph unless I disconnect the heldex brain. Drives fine disconnected but ABS,TC,SC and brake warning comes on.
So getting the haldex brain checked is next. Only found 1 company in UK that will touch a heldex 4 ecu based in Crewe. Ps. Thanks for the tip on the front diff where exhaust heats it up and dries the grease out. I have a small grinding noise on any right hand turn. So that's my next job . Cheers
@@100celt9 is it 'just a thought' or have you tried that yourself?
Depends on the age not the vehicle spec.
Lots of the drivetrain components are the same between the FL2 & several Volvo models are shared. Both mfrs were owned by Ford at the time.
I have an xc90 D5 and I hear a continuous UUUUUU(rust...) under traction... which disappears when I release the accelerator pedal... could it be the differential?
карданный вал зря снимал. насос снимается без снятия вала.
It was a waste of time to remove the driveshaft. the pump can be removed without removing the shaft.
38:36
too bad about all the ads.