Catastrophic AWD Unit Failure Audi S3 Golf R ~Haldex Failure
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- Опубликовано: 1 июл 2024
- Haldex or Borg Warner Failure is becoming common on Golf R and Audi S3. This Haldex/Borg Warner unit is used in many 4motion and Quattro vehicles. This AWD unit failed causing the car to only have front wheel drive. Metal imbedded into the clutches will lead to the car having no AWD function.
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disclaimer:
The content of this video is available for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the professional advice of a mechanic who has personally inspected your vehicle, nor does it create a relationship of any kind between the Humble Mechanic and you. Every situation may be different, and the Humble Mechanic does not make any warranties, whether express or implied, as to the accuracy, fitness, or applicability of the information or automotive parts portrayed in this video to any project and makes no guarantee of results. The Humble Mechanic and any sponsors of this video will not be liable for any damages related to personal injury, property damage or loss of any kind that may result from the use or reliance on this video and/or any automotive parts represented in this video. You are using the information and automotive parts portrayed in this video solely at your own risk. 
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NOTE: This unit is NOT A HALDEX, it is a Borg Warner. I used the term Haldex because that is basically what we all still call it. LOL Also I have a DSG teardown video coming soon! Be sure to like this video if you like teardown goodies!!! Thanks so much
But it is a haldex... borgwarner just bought them 🤣 still made in the haldex factory...
@@garyhowe88 Actually B.W. only bought the division for hydraulics and four wheel drive systems. Haldex remains as a company of itself.
@@sharg0 yes they bought the company haldex traction systems.. very common practice.. you have numerous smaller companies with a parent company.. but the factories still have haldex traction systems above the door, still the same designers workers etc, just a new parent company.
Could you make a piece to replace that clutch system and then have full time awd?
@@scottmclean337 yes, you could, but you'd add much more stress into the transfer case, and that may blow eventually (they also fail sometimes). the smartest is to get a haldex controller, so you can choose when you want it to be permanent awd, and disengage it when you dont need it
We are Haldexrepairs in the UK, this Gen 5 haldex coupling is perfectly fine and has not failed mechanically. It is most likely to just have pump failure. The clutch is still totally good. But the most common part for coupling failure is actually the outer O ring seal on the piston you removed at 4:26 gets chewed up and leaks. That is pretty much the only thing that fails on them. Good luck! And we call it a Haldex even though its a Borgwarner Power Drive Systems G5 coupling due to licencing issues since Haldex AWD was sold to BorgW. Enjoy :)
Hello
Thanks for the additionnal information,
The o ring that you are talking about, do you know if we can buy it somewhere ?
can you get bearing kits for the differential section? i have had 2 come thro now with knackered output bearings on the drivers side. no-one has let me have a car long enough to ID the bearings. (in the UK too)
I had a outwaren pump too. I changed it to a new one and the system was totally fine. Now I have a new problem with my rear final drive. If im going between 60 to 100 kph, i get a really loud wummering noise from the back of my car. The noise is not on contact with any tirestuff or so. I think I have to replace all my bearings in the Haldex/Differential unit. Seems like that this is also a common issiu with the Haldex. I have 190000km on the clock an its a 2014 Golf 7 Variant 2.0TDI.
@@denisohbrienwas there any space, was there any play on the long cup that connects to the differential (left), any knocking noises when starting?
@@patrykkrol9433 I don't recall any play that shouldn't be there, was diagnosed with a stethoscope and running the car up to speed on a ramp, was a failed bearing for sure but no customer has yet been willing to let me have their car for a few weeks to strip and identify the bearings
Pump motor failed. Clean and reassemble with new motor and ride out. Those clutch friction discs aren’t too bad. Same type of multi plate wet clutch as motorcycles use. You can dress the steel plates by polishing them with some 400 grit paper glued to a surfacing plate. I have saved many dirt bike clutches this way that were much worse.
Exactly this! Everything was new inside so pump failed.. That simple
Could we infer that the pump's failure was caused by the black debris? As if the pump's internal weren't sealed properly? Because if that's the case, the failure seems inevitable and changing the pump should be part of routine maintenance.
I'm not a mechanic and would never go this deep on my own vehicle, but I love how you present things that I'll watch it anyways!
Charles....Check the pressure release valve at the top of the casing where the prop shaft flange meets the clutch pack housing....to the right of the HA1 casing mark at 2:11 to 2:37 in the video. See if it is clogged with debris...let us know...if you find anything there. Debris causing it to stick open = clutch slip and overworking the pump motor... then some type of failure. Also, after replacing a pump...the relearn procedure is omitted...leading to replacement of entire rear units...that would have otherwise returned to normal function.
This seems plausible, the amount of black stuff (which i'm assuming is graphite coming from the brushes) would indicate that pump has worked HARD.
@@GeFeldz I would assume the motors are brush less...but I may be wrong....
@@tmw2442 two wires to motor. Not brushless
@@tmw2442 why assume that?
I'm surprised that unit is largely serviceable, nothing seemed to be overly difficult to repair/replace.
which is shocking haha, silly vws
I don't think it is serviceable, I don't think you can buy the parts to repair it, other than the motor?
@@whizzo94 That's the issue VW made a conscious choice to make the parts unavailable.
I had a loss of rear traction on my 2015 S3 and noticed the voltage to the motor was less than half of what it is supposed to be under full load. Replaced the motor with new fluid and it’s now working correctly, pushing 11.xx volts to the rear motor. Definitely a best first step if you’re dealing with this issue as the motors can be had for
can you see the voltage in VCDS ?
what voltage did you see before you had replaced it.
Had the same issue on my 2015 S3, noticed I had a fwd car, took it to the dealer and they replaced the pump under warranty. Happened at around 50k km (sorry, in Canada, not using miles). Car is now at 115k km, gonna service it soon.
that's awesome! Too bad it doesn't throw a fault when the voltage gets that low, would probably save a bunch of differentials from the scrapyard.
@@Lord_Verminaard what voltage are you supposed to see with the pump motor?
It was quite interesting to see the progression from the Mk 4's Haldex to this Haldex-type Not-A-Haldex-because-Borg-Warner-makes-it system. I was curious if the glitter was ferrous or non-ferrous as that might narrow down its origin. Also, I wonder if the pump/screen was clogged with metal debris prior to going into the shop. In any case, it seems like the pump got sad, which made the motor brushes get real spicy, hence the lovely black powder that dumped out of its housing.
A few notes and questions:
-Clutch pack is available from Audi, about 600-700eur, but this pack didn't look too bad. I've seen some pairs that are fused together.
-Pump is available from both borg warner and Audi, there are also service kits around for much less. Generally the brushes go bad, the pump can be tested with 12V.
-The pump continuously runs when you start the car. Theres also a small pump / actuator inside the control unit with a plunger blocking/allowing the oil to flow and this is what controls AWD, probably that has failed as well.
-You are correct, Audi europe service manual doesn't have a rebuild guide. But I have a Audi USA PDF that has rebuild instructions. There are no measurements for putting the haldex together but there are extensive measurements on the diff-haldex side, otherwise there will be noise when running.
Now the questions:
-Can you mix and match parts from two broken haldex/diff units? Eg clutch and plate pairs?
-Especially, can you mix and match diff and haldex halfs? My mechanic says crown wheel and pinion are "married" with each other and you can't match them, it will be noisy.
I have a broken awd that no longer works on my Audi TT mk1, AWD works on the lift but on the ground the rear wheels don't engage... Haldex fluid was pitch black last time I checked it.
Hello, could you send me this DPF file please? It will help me a lot.
Thank you for the complete explanation humble mechanic I think you are one of the best channels in RUclips for VW cars. I just bought a new arteon formotion and you just put the fear of God in me regarding this units. It is really scary to know that a little bit of metal could cause such a complex units to fail.
This is how I fixed a slipping rear Haldex clutch on my Golf 7 R. Use VCDS to re calibrate the rear clutch pack. Saved me a lot of money.
NICE! How long has that held up?
@@HumbleMechanic Close to 3 years now. I recommend to do it every year or so. I did clean the pump motor thing and replaced the oil but front wheels were still spinning. The oil was dark though. After about 2 months I came across an article that said to do that and it worked. The clutches wear over time, so the calibration adjust the clamp force so the rear wheels get the correct amount of power again- I guess. I bought my car in 2014.
@@janterblanche9328do you have a link to the article? where to enter and calibrate in vcds?
Awesome video thank you for that. I'll be servicing my haldex on my S3 next week as its at 30k km's now and your video on that is bloody awesome too.
Great video mate. Nice tear down description. Regards from the UK 🇬🇧
Excellent vid on the the Haldex really great job explaining it also ..Thanks
Wow! I've always wanted to see how it actually worked. Thanks!
I've been considering getting a smaller car but I still want awd. My current car has quattro (torsen) and never really requires any service to that system so it's helpful to see how one of these haldex based systems work and what to expect. Thanks!
My untuned 2016 MK7 Golf R w DSG had a similar failure at 30,000 miles where my car became FWD only (complete with FWD burnouts when launching the car). Unlike your failure, my dealer said they found a bunch of clutch material in the motor filter as the friction material had disintegrated away from the rings prematurely. I was told that the clutch packs weren't fully compatible with the Haldex, erm, "clutch" fluid. The entire rear diff assembly was replaced under warranty. The outgoing unit was "Rev D" found in 2015 and early 2016 DSG models, and the replacement was Rev G or H.
I can't see why VW/Audi says this isn't a serviceable unit, Its surprisingly simple and uses the same exact clutch style/design as a the DSG transmissions AND that pretty much every wet-clutch driven motorcycle has ever used but just with an electric motor to actuate it!!
And the price on the actuation motor is totally absurd too!
Awesome stuff as always dude, This was cool as heck to see and it's awesome to see how it works
This video is so informative VW should just link this video to their channel. Thanks man, more please!
You always post videos as I’m having similar problems! Great video as always so helpful and yes the curiosity does normally get to me! Haha
Thanks for the video! I am going to be getting a golf R soon! And this helps 🤘
thanks for this video Charles ! I always wondered how this stuff works and now I know .. thanks to you !
Outstanding video, detailed explanation, thank you so much!
really interesting video, ive taken apart a few motorcycle clutches and transmissions before and this is almost exactly the same setup as some of those clutches, nice to fill in the blanks when it comes to car drivetrains
Super interesting! Thanks so much for explaining this so well!
Great job, I just got an Audi S3 8p, this really helps me out
Educational, Charles! Thanks man!✌️
Great video, thanks Charles.
Being a vw tech this is so interesting to see how the cars we love and work on come apart and work
Greatest videos on RUclips! Thank you!!!!
A case for 'right to repair'. New clutch pack, motor and fluid looks to be the fix.
in this case, just the motor IMO.
That clutch pack wasn't even worn... It's completely servicable.
Great video! Cool to see how it all goes together. Fixed my 2016 R with slipping issues at 40k with replacing the pump and new fluid. Seems like the pumps themselves are causing more issues than the clutch units themselves. Service mine every 20k or so with no issues since. Look forward to the DSG breakdown 💪
How you replace the pump if it isn't serviceable??
@@rkan2 it is servicable, you can change the haldex fluid and clean the filter on the pump. If the pump is actually broken, you can also just put a new one on.
Great video! Really need how to videos on diff / haldex servicing....Audi S5 (B8).
Great video. I have a tiguan 4 motion. I hope that I remember to change the both types of oil in due time
320.000 km & 31 years of use of my Passat Syncro g60 @ 200 ABT hp, no engine repairs, no VCT Syncro malfunctions!
Very nice work, congratulations!
The Syncro Heresy
VW Group say that the HALDEX5 system fluid needs changing at 40k miles here in the UK. I tend to do mine at half that mileage (20k). Thanks for showing us the inner working on that unit.
Great to see the guts on this unit. Thanks for that. With luck, this will be the only time I "get" to see it. Thanks!
Great content as always
Great explanation! Thanks
Just wanted to help out since I had this issue. Like mentioned (and thank you again HumbleMechanic) it could be the pump, but it can also be the haldex controller which was my problem. Though if your haldex clutch packs are bad you can replace them from Powerzone in Europe. I'm sure they'd carry the clutch packs other places as well. Hope this helps someone.
Do you have any links or just the company, google finds nothing.
I'm kind of surprised this isn't serviceable, it's just a lighter version of a wet clutch pack that can be found in most tractors for a whole number of applications.
I've had no trouble getting an overhaul kit for the under/over transmission in a 1967 Cockshutt 1750 so it seems kind of ridiculous to me that it's easier to get parts for a 55 year old tractor than it is to even try to get parts to overhaul the AWD on cars that are barely even 15 years old and only seems to need a clutch and pump.
I definitely deep dive.
I'm a (the)fleet mechanic for a tree and Landscape company, theres a lot of vehicles, and equipment. I'm currently rebuilding the fuel injection pump for our 1996 kubota excavator. Lots of yik...but I love it.
My golf (that I just berid myself of) was bought when I was still in NC, and, I had a sneaking suspicion the previous owner had an accident involving the ds front.. that became brutally apparent once I moved up to Massachusetts. 3 full suspension rebuilds, swaybar bushings, and it would kick it all out of wack within a year or so.
Not to mention the engine mounts got destroyed twice up here.. thats all parts tho..
Hey Charles,
Enjoyed the autopsy!
Two questions. How much hp/tq can one of those units handle?
Is there a high performance aftermarket for that unit?
Thanks.
Great video! Of course, as soon as I sell my S3 we get some S3 content. :)
The lack of serviceable vehicle components and repair parts is shameful. These components were assembled and should be readily disassembled for a rebuild. The right to repair laws that are being considered, which industry is vigorously opposing, may change the repair industry, but it will be slow in coming. Example, Porsche will not rebuild a failed PDK, $20K for a replacement and they will not make parts available if you wanted to rebuild one, so your point on keeping up with the maintenance or shortening the intervals when used in severe conditions is spot on. Only problem is getting owners to actually do it. As usual, great video.
This is the auto industry. Its sad that so much is not serviceable.
PRODIGY HumbleMechanic
Loved it From the start to finish
Thank you very much HumbleMechanic
Take care and have a great day HumbleMechanic
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Ford also used the Haldex system on the mk1 Kuga ( escape in the US) they were known to fail. Always caused by not having the oil changed. The small gauze filter blocks and kills the pump. Ford initially said it wasn’t a service item. However the systems were also used on Volvo cars and Landrover Freelanders. In these applications it was recommended to change the oil and clean the gauze at least every 30k miles. This helped prevent failure. My mk1 Kuga, which I still have suffered a failure at around 40k miles. I replaced the pump with an eBay item. It cost around £230. I have had the oil and filter changed every year since and have had no more problems. Service kits are available on eBay which includes a new filter and a litre of oil for around £60.
Good vid! It does seem in this case the pump motor is the cause of the failure. I've seen this type of clutch packs in a fishing boat gearbox, where it locked in gear. It was caused by the clutch plates on the input shaft wearing notches in the spline, causing the plates to lock in place so they couldn't disengage not the ideal situation in a boat!
Great video, as expected. Questions... {a} Can/should one throw a LSD in the gearbox you dissected (during a total upgrade)? {b} The pump in the clean side failed. Wouldn't/mightn't that have accounted for the metal in the clutch pack?
Thanks for doing this
thanks for the video, I have been doing research on doing AWD conversion on a 2013 A3. I have been trying to find where to vent tubes lead to. How do I vent them
Thanks for your videos they deffo have helped me modifie and maintain my golf R 7.5 wagon 👍 I have an issue with my haldex so I followed your haldex service video, fitted a néw pump, after approx 30 mins of hard driving, the traction light flickers and I'm getting front wheel spin, car cuts power when full traction is on, major fron wheel spin when traction is in sport or long press off, any ideas what could be causing this as I have no fault codes?
Thanks in advance 👍
Darren
Thanks top lad 👍👨🏻🏭🇬🇧
That clutch pack looks pretty much like a motorcycle clutch. In a motorcycle, the engine, the transmission and the clutch are, in most cases, lubricated by the same oil. Glitter in the oil is normal and I see it at every oil drain.
Hopefully the aftermarket will come up with a clutch replacement kit...eventually to keep the Rs on the road, well into the future...
My sister 2015 a3 2.0t quatro is not powering the rear weels. Should i start with replacing the motor first? Fluid looks good.
Love these tear down vids. Just a quick request: Are you able to do a feature on the VW/Audi Twin charged 1.4 Engine? It'd be a really cool insight into what was a pretty unique concept for a mainstream drivetrain. Cheers
I’d have to get one from overseas we never got that enonge
@@HumbleMechanic we don't get a lot of cool enonges
@@cumbob you could probably source one using Google or one of the other search enonges
manteniment?? video plis!! tanks bro
outstanding video
Text you?
It’s a hydrostatic pump with pistons on a ramp like in a lawn tractor transmission. For the pump to make pressure it needs super tight piston to bore clearance. Any wear lowers pump pressure letting the clutches slip. That’s why there is was so much brush carbon in the case. Pump is worn out.
My mates old Superb 4x4 with the CJX R motor had this with 90k on the clock and was much worse. We re-assembled, changed the filter head on the pump and filled it and sent it. Car went another 40k in his ownership til he sold it. Zero issues.
How does wheel size effect this unit? On Subaru's, if the front tires are worn and the rear tires are new, the computer interprets this as front axle slippage and will engage the clutch [partially] in order to try to reduce front axle speed. This leads to premature failure of the rear axle clutch pack.....
Great video humble as usual but can’t you point me in the right direction on what’s a good solution to clean the outside of the haldex, bought a used one and it’s full of axel grease and crude lol
I am entertained. That was really interesting.
Good to see, cheers
So freaking amazing!
Seems typical, the physical parts are still fine but the electrical component fails and/or malfunctions. Wonder if there is a way to just permanently lock the input shaft to the output? Very cool to see the inside of one of these!
I don't like your face. But I respect your knowledge on the euro repair. Half the time I learn something new by listening to you. Great information Always 👍
Lol I wonder why you had to include the part about my face.
@@HumbleMechanic I don't like beards especially in the summer here in Texas. I do learn alot from you though. Great Chanel
Please do an 02s teardown and rebuild , gearbox from a Audi A3 8p FSI non turbo or 1.8t ,or golf 5,jetta 5 fsi non turbo
This is the gen 5 Haldex (Borgwarner). I think you dont see a lot of problems on gen4 haldex like on a Golf R MK6 ! Do you think Gen 4 Haldex are better unit ?
So is it safe to assume that the clutch discs further down the unit were deprived of fresh fluid ? Causing too much friction which then caused the discs to slightly warp/damage ?
What is your opinion on why exactly the unit failed ?. Thanks :)
Its sad this is not a rebuildable part it seems so straightforward in its assembly eve more so than some automatic transmissions. Is it just that it is such a new design or something else? I know we didn't see the true cause of failure for the particles the pump looks like brush ware but can't see that going into the main area but hmmm. Or was it just you did such a great job showing us the disassembly 👊👊👊👊👊
Yup ford tech and had a very common ptu failure that was making lots of noise and binding that would usually have windowed the case so I had to rip it apart to see how bad it was. Even though it had a core, I found al.lat nothing left of the pinion gear or ring gear. It smelt sooo bad the fire dept almost got called for a gas leak smell lmao!
IM thinking those metal shavings got between the clutches and caused them to drag tripping the computer to sense movement when it should not have any. Not serviceable totally sucks. But a day and the life of newer VWs.
Quick question: Can I use MoS2 additive in manual gearbox which uses ATF fluid? '93 Mercedes 124
I can smell that motor from my house 😂
Very cool to see this teardown. The mechanical side seems pretty robust.
LOL!!! yeah this is a weird one. Id doesn't seem like that little of an issue should cause no AWD.
If the haldex motor or clutches fail, would there be any harm in just welding the haldex connection so it's a constant 50/50 AWD?
Whats the Voltage that we should see in VCDS / OBD11 For the haldex pump clutch motor?
A couple of Ex VAG mechanics have independently of each other said to me that most of the time on the 5 its the pump that fails and the metal is from inside the pump. One of them said unless you never service it and kick the arse out of it the diffs last for ever. Both said the pumps are complete shite. A quick polish of the clutch plates on this one and a new pump and seals and she’ll be good to go.
So charles would u say the ols haldex from r32s etc are better than the new 1z. Or shud i say stronger
Question: If this unit came from from a shop that did some prelim trouble shooting, wouldn't they have drained the fluids themselves? This implies that some of the loose stuff would have been drained out and lost for this tear down.
Second: What was the carbon looking stuff poured out of the motor housing? Seems the options are ground up brush material or the motor windings overheated enough to bake the insulation off the windings. Seems like the only way to grind up the brushes would be to have something come loose that allowed the brushes to continue to make contact with the commutator, allowing the motor to keep spinning, until there was no longer enough material to allow sufficient contact.
I've never owned a VW with the Haldex/similar system. I wonder if there is some kind of modification/bypass to reliably make this system permanent AWD. If there was, I would consider a R32 golf in the future. For now, I'll stick with my B5 S4 Quattro full mechanical drivetrain.
So did you determine what causes the metal on the clutches, and where it comes from?
Thanks
hello friend, is it possible to eliminate the friction discs and lock the haldex with soldering or something like that?
hi charles i have a 2007 a3 8pa can you tell me if it has immo3 or immo 4 and is it worth the effort to convert to awd cheers from down under
Believe it or not I have seen a couple of these diffs assembled together a complete rear end on a subframe with brakes, shocks, springs, axles and stuff a couple of days ago. Kind of mixed bag of emotions to see one of these diffs disassembled due to failure.
Pos me on this VW unit. It appears that it would be possible to add a mechanical shaft directly to the rear and do away with the clutch mecha?
If not, why not? TIA my brother!
So with you owning a Golf R with this setup, I’m curious what are your plans to try and mitigate this issue on your own cars? Just doing regular service on it?
I have a 2008 S3 8P. This is the 2nd Haldex failing on my car. The last failure made rear wheels to lockup completely while going at 160km/h on Autobahn.
I was on the left lane, had to pull to right in under 100 meters. Otherwise all the cars at the back crash from behind. Was lucky, I was able to save the car from a crash.
But it gives no warning on dash, no whining sound of gears, no jerkiness. Everything seems fine, then rear wheels mechanically lock up.
If it happened while I was turning at high speed, it would spin or crash at the hands of the most experienced racing driver. Nothing can disengage rear wheels. We had the same lockup in another 2018 model S3 too. I think the design required to be changed. In case of a failure, it shouldn't mechanically lock the wheels.
But it happened 2 times on a 8P car, once in a 8V car. I think it may have killed many people, but it would be very hard to explain what happened after a catastrophic car crash, that your rear wheels locked up. And if the driver is living, will tell you this. But it may be hard to prove it in the court.
I think Borgwarner needs to take these units back. Change the design with a safe unit. May cost billions though.
It makes me wonder if the TCU was tuned as well? Is the metal on the clutch discs a result of the upgraded clamping force (or lack of, if it wasn't tuned)?? I feel like there are more variables to this that's necessary to formulate some solid conclusions.
Either way, it's clear the pump went, but I wonder how much time those clutch packs had left on them?
Hey Charles what size socket did you use to unbolt that prop shaft flange?
I had a mishap when changing the haldex fluid. I unbolted the wrong bolts to pull out the pump and loosened the ground haldex wire by mistake from the screw and did not ground it back properly. After the fluid change started hearing rear clunking at low speed turns. And vibrating when launching. Ended up purchasing new pump that fixed the clunking but vibration on a launch stil persisted. 10 months later vibrating on launch lessened but still present depending how hard I launch. Fml anyway but still drives and pulls.
Hello, on my golf 7r defferential cogwheels broken completely... Is it possible becasue the mechanic used wrong oil in it or its common problem ??
Would it be a good idea for high powered applications to just weld the input shaft directly to the diff input and delete the motorised clutchpack alltogether ?
Only question: Why did you keep looking to your right? I've never noticed you do that before in your vids. Something burning on the stove? Haha...
Cool vid, as always, Charles!
It's weird that in Canada (where the awd system is being used a lot half of the year), the schedule maintenance says only a awd system fluid change is required every 45k KM. I called the dealer and asked about maintenance on the actual "haldex" pump, they said that unbolting the pump for a clean up (clean or change the mesh) would void the warranty of the unit and they also never do it. They are saying it's good for the lifetime of the vehicle with just fluid changes. My understanding is that it's different for US cars? It's part of the maintenance schedule the haldex pump cleanup?
So how does it control the level of clutch slip? 😮
Does it just pump oil into the clutch housing to press the disks together and controlls it via how much oil pressure there is?
How does this S3/Golf R unit compare to the RS3/TTRS unit?
So I blew my 8p a3 up a month ago and could use a little guidance, would going through patreon to ask for help/advice be the best bet?
This passed winter I went to do a very late haldex (Borgwarner? Looks the same as the diff in this video) service and found my motor was bad, so I think the whole unit will get replaced during the build, but I was wondering if I could use this opportunity to swap from the 2.0t quattro dsg setup, to a dsg and rear diff from a 3.2 a3 or r32 for better highway gearing? Would tuning the dsg or haldex unit become complicated because it's a 2.0t?