Just done HALDEX filter and pump clean plus oil change on my HSE Freelander 2 way to go on white plastic filter cover is to heat up a pick and melt through cover then angled pick in hole to extract. Makes it really easy🥵
Good visual video, it also best to let people know that not all the flanges are the same, some have a damper which is larger, and it make the removal of the pump harder, like another person said you could have trouble getting it back on so take note, also i note you did not clean out the pump orifice or the filter orifice, best to spray some brake cleaner to clean them out, don't use cheap filter either, the seals are bigger and you struggle to insert it, to remove the white cap add a screw and use it to lever, it will pop out easy then. another trick you can do is grind a chamfer on the outer case of the pump and it will help locate it better, use good Haldex oil when filling, replace the oil and filter with legit borgwarner filter and a proper Statoil manufactured/formulated haldex oil from either VAG, BorgWarner, Febi, Volvo etc
I am just doing daughters Freeland changing all the oils, I've come to the Haldex filter, how did you get that screw in to remove the plastic cap? Thanks
On the Volvo XC70 it is possible to wiggle out the motor by loosening the motor casing to allow it to clear the prop flange. Of course there may be subtle differences in the Haldex. Edit: sorry I typed this before finishing watching, the Volvo is the same. FWIW it is worth taking the car for a drive or even just spin the wheels while up in the air to "trigger" the Haldex, the pump will then send fluid to the usual places and allow the filter to fill. I know some people have temporarily wired the pump motor to a battery to get the fluid to circulate while the car is still on stands.
This is what we managed to do! 😁 Worked out well, but very messy with all the oil! Glad we worked it out though as once the pump was out the filter was pretty clogged.
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips thanks for the reply, I am gathering the enthusiasm to do mine, as you said during the video a clogged pump can create more problems even destroying the controller.
Hi, i just had my haldex serviced.. which includes filter & oil change.. but unfortunately now there is a loud banging sound from the rear whenever i accelerate from stop and make a hard turn. Any idea what went wrong?
Hi Thanks for the video, just to note, we have attempted to do my Dads 12 plate freelander 2 this weekend, managed to do the filter etc and even got the pump out, but cannot get the pump back in. our flange looks different to yours almost like the prop fits inside the diff flange which makes it slightly wider, you cant line the pump up to get it to slot in without it binding.
Hello! Hmmm that's rather frustrating you managed to get the pump out but not back in! Assuming you removed the housing from the pump itself? That allows you to put the pump back in sliding the pump housing over it, if that helps?
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips Yes we tried every avenue. i have done some more digging and my dads 12 plate is fitted with the vibration damper on the flange, hence why its slightly wider. so unfortunately it looks like we are taking the flange off in situ (if possible) or removing the whole haldex unit to then remove the flange. Oh i cant wait lol.
@@josephwiggins3021 Oh no! That's really strange why Land Rover decided to do that. I know with the first generation of the Freelander 2 they had the Gen 3 Haldex then they fitted the Gen 4's to the newer shape. Out of interest I know you said your dads was a 12 plate, does it have the upgraded LED rear lights and updated headlamps? I'm wondering if it's the last of the facelifts?
On my 2013 year there’s some sort of vibration damper on the rear of the propshaft right in front of the pump,which looks impossible to remove the pump,also I believe you have to turn the ignition on for a few minutes to allow the oil to go through the pump.
Oh! That’s interesting, I thought they would have been the same, just trim differences. How very strange. That’s something we did just sadly not in our video! Learnt a fair few things doing this video 😂 Remember batteries for torch or have a better light for when working underneath the car.
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips When I took mine to Bell for a haldex pump problem they changed the huge propshaft damper for the smaller one to make future services easier. It makes no difference to the NVH inside the car.
When can we book our car into "Frenchies Motor Mechanics" and will you accept chocolate digestives as a form of payment? 😁 But seriously, great work. 👍😀
Hi guys, I followed your instructions to the point where I undid the pump 4x screws (2x small, 2x bigger) from the Haldex - and the pump housing came away revealing the electrical connections - did you then pull/lever with a screwdriver that cylinder housing right off first before removing the pump unit itself? I think I was nearly there 🙄 Cheers
Do you also can add some data to the change, like what's the part number of the haldex oil filter, the original oil for lr2 haldex and how much NM torque all the bolts need?
Good job, I see quite many people asking why LR is asking to withdraw 70ml from Haldex and 120ml from transfer case. One potential reason is thermal expansion but Haldex is commonly used on other cars transmisions, do they require the same ? BTW what is the cost of changing oil and filter in the authorized service in UK ? BR KP
I have an Evoque 2014 which has the gen4 Haldex. I went through a puddle today because of Storm Babet, Dundee was just one flowing river. Now I believe I have an issue with the Haldex. No warnings or anything just not engaging the rear diff correctly, so I get a clonk because of fwd and rear misalignment. Could the Haldex just be water logged or the pump shorting out preventing it from operating. RR has full service history, so I would expect it to have had a service. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Hey! Sorry to hear what’s happened, sounds really bad up your way. Strangely enough I’ve just replied to another person about a similar issue. They described their issue as a snatching/jolting, not sure if this is what you are experiencing? It could well be the Haldex, I’d check when the Haldex was last serviced? They need an oil/filter change every 2 years but don’t get covered on Land Rover service schedules as considered “sealed for life” units. The Evoque of your age is a Freelander just with a different shell. Do you have an automatic or manual? Does the clonk happen at any specific times? Like going from Park to Drive? I would have thought if the pump had a problem you would have had a message on the dashboard. But it’s worth getting the Haldex checked I think. With deep water be careful as a wading depth of 500mm it doesn’t take much for water to get into the diffs. Let us know how you get on or if we can try and help more! 🙂
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips it only happens when I'm gear and applying power. If the clutch is depressed then the binding/jolt clonk starts in the rear. I have disengaged the Haldex and all stops.
@@shanepiper Ahhh I was thinking about suggesting that, have heard you can take the fuse out for the Haldex! If you can would be worth looking at the condition of the pump.
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips now the rain has stopped for a bit I'm going to check the connections. The water might have shorted the pump connections. Hoping it's nothing too expensive to fix 😕
As i have a problem with my Heldex, is whinning with the Diff also .ive had my freelander 2 Sport LE from brand new 2011 ,vehicle serviced every year never missed and i cant see on any of my bills the heldex has ever been serviced,so why are the 2 units whinning,i was told yrs ago it doesnt have to be serviced ive spoke to my garage over the yrs as i have gone to same garsge for 25 yrs,to replace both 3 grand .ive done in nearly 14 yrs 75,000 miles .so a bit confused,if the heldex should be serviced why hasnt it.. Can you guys enlighten me ..Thanks Gordy
Hello! 🙂 The Haldex units were described as sealed for life. However, overtime the oil inside turns into sludge and clogs the filter inside starving the pump of oil. It’s worth getting it fully serviced and checked over it’s never been done 👍
Hi I have just bought a 14 plate FreeLander 2 dynamic , it’s got 106,000 on the clock and there is no evidence to suggest the Haldex has been serviced , I contacted my local Landrover dealer and another 4x4 specialist and they both asked if I was having problems with the gears or if there was a warning light on the dash , I told them no , and they said to leave it alone as it can cause more problems interfering with the system ?? But after watching your vid surly it needs done , so don’t know why the “experts “ are taking this stance !! Thoughts please , great vid Lads Cheers Cnris
Hello! Glad you liked the video! 😁 Sadly the “sealed for life” unit isn’t the case. The oil will degrade inside a bit like an engine or differential if not changed regularly. There is a filter inside which needs changing both inside the unit and on the pump. About 2 years ago we only managed to change the black filter and oil. But this time managed to change the oil, filter and get the pump out giving it a good clean! Would definitely recommend getting it serviced! 🙂🙌
Hello! 🙂 It could well need a service depends on the noise it is making. They do make a slight noise when operating but anything else could suggest something is wrong.
4TH GENERATION IS ABOVE ON TOP UNIT, MORE AWKARD TO REMOVE. THAT'S A GENERATION 3 PUMP YOU ARE DOING. 4TH GENERATION IS ANOTHER 180 DEGREE UP. EVEN THOUGH 4TH IS MORE AKWARD TO GET AT YOU STILL DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE FLANGE. JUST NEED THE RIGHT TOOLS. ABOUT 30 INUTES DOES THE COMPLETE JOB.
Hi Guys, that was a really great and informative video thank you very much for posting 👍🏼 i have a 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE and it's developed an intermittent snatching/jolting. This mainly happens when under acceleration, there are no warning lights that have come up in the dash so would like your thought's as to possibly what this could be? And do you think it could be a Haldex related problem? Any advice here would be very welcome thank you Paul 👍🏼
Hey Paul, thank you! Glad you liked the video 🙂 Hmmm ok, this could be a number of different things. Is your car automatic or manual? If Automatic, software updates were available to remedy a clunk, usually going from park to drive and improved general driving. Do you know when the Haldex was last serviced? They need oil changes every 2 years to ensure the pump doesn’t get starved of oil. Rear differentials every 10years. Another thing to consider is when the fuel filter was last replaced? They also need replacing every 2 years. The Freelanders do suffer with a cough every now and then usually in warmer weather, many have tried to find the fault but unsuccessful. If we can be of more help let us know! 🙂
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips Hi Guys, thank you so much for replying back to me. My Freelander 2 is a manual so that rules out the Automatic potential problem straight away 👌🏼 As to regarding a HALDEX Service the car has got really low mileage on 69,000 and we've had it since 2012 and as far as i can remember have never had the Haldex Serviced 🙈 (what are we like) so that will be the first thing that will get done now thanks to both you guys on the posting of the Haldex Service so kind of you 🙏🏼 Also i think the last time it had a full service was 2yrs ago (as haven't done the mileage) so as you say the fuel filter probably needs changing now. What's your thoughts on a potential "Failing Injector" for this Snatching/Jolting Issue? Once again thank you so much for your great RUclips Channel i have found a very valuable and also entertaining resource here so keep posting guys loving your video's thank you 🙏🏼 Kind Regards, Paul 👍🏼...
@@PauleyPaul07 Ahhh nice! 😁 Bens is a manual, though think sometimes he’d prefer an auto! 😅 Yes definitely, if you’ve not had the Haldex serviced in the time you’ve owned the car get it done soon as you can. It was never on a normal service as Land Rover considered it a “Sealed For Life” unit, hmmm 😅 So with the potentially failing injector, do you have black smoke? Sound of knocking from the engine with misfiring? Struggling to start? Those are usual signs of injectors failing. Hope this helps 🙂 Ahhh thank you very much! Really grateful for the support! 😁
Hi! are you sure it's the right method to make the oil level? I think that way is right for the differential but not for the haldex... Isn't it safer to put as much as you take away? anyway good video!:)
Hello! 😁 A very good point! Glad you liked the video 🙂 We have heard about removing so much oil after filling it, think we’ve also heard this about the PTU or something similar 😅 It seems very odd why you would remove oil, potentially leaving the unit with less than it needs. Ben has always followed the principle of filling up the components with oil until they start to drain and then stop, that way you know for sure it has enough oil. Has always worked for us 🙌😁
Hello! 🙂 Ben serviced it two years ago but only replaced the oil and filter as back then didn’t know how to remove the pump. He thought this time to remove the pump as he had seen online how bad the filter on the end of the pump can get! I think if you could remove the whole unit, you could probably take it apart further but not sure what else there is to service. I’m not sure there is anything else to do. If the unit was to fail it would have to be replaced but changing the oil, filter and cleaning the pump filter is probably the best things you can do to prolong the life of the Haldex a bit like an engine 🙂👍
зачем карданный вал прикрутили рано? он мешает фильтр снять. и нужно было крышку насоса снять: там много пыли от щёток. Why was the driveshaft screwed in early? it prevents you from removing the filter. you need to remove the pump cover: there is a lot of dirt. а уровень залитого масла определить забыл?! Did you forget to determine the oil level?
Just done HALDEX filter and pump clean plus oil change on my HSE Freelander 2 way to go on white plastic filter cover is to heat up a pick and melt through cover then angled pick in hole to extract. Makes it really easy🥵
Good visual video, it also best to let people know that not all the flanges are the same, some have a damper which is larger, and it make the removal of the pump harder, like another person said you could have trouble getting it back on so take note, also i note you did not clean out the pump orifice or the filter orifice, best to spray some brake cleaner to clean them out, don't use cheap filter either, the seals are bigger and you struggle to insert it, to remove the white cap add a screw and use it to lever, it will pop out easy then. another trick you can do is grind a chamfer on the outer case of the pump and it will help locate it better, use good Haldex oil when filling, replace the oil and filter with legit borgwarner filter and a proper Statoil manufactured/formulated haldex oil from either VAG, BorgWarner, Febi, Volvo etc
Nice video and looking forward to more
Do you have a part’s list link please?
Thanks
@@anthonyjantjies4819 Thank you! 😁 I’ll dig out the part numbers. What year is your Freelander?
I am just doing daughters Freeland changing all the oils, I've come to the Haldex filter, how did you get that screw in to remove the plastic cap? Thanks
On the Volvo XC70 it is possible to wiggle out the motor by loosening the motor casing to allow it to clear the prop flange. Of course there may be subtle differences in the Haldex. Edit: sorry I typed this before finishing watching, the Volvo is the same. FWIW it is worth taking the car for a drive or even just spin the wheels while up in the air to "trigger" the Haldex, the pump will then send fluid to the usual places and allow the filter to fill. I know some people have temporarily wired the pump motor to a battery to get the fluid to circulate while the car is still on stands.
This is what we managed to do! 😁 Worked out well, but very messy with all the oil! Glad we worked it out though as once the pump was out the filter was pretty clogged.
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips thanks for the reply, I am gathering the enthusiasm to do mine, as you said during the video a clogged pump can create more problems even destroying the controller.
@@g0fvt It certainly can! Hope it goes well 🙂
Hi, i just had my haldex serviced.. which includes filter & oil change.. but unfortunately now there is a loud banging sound from the rear whenever i accelerate from stop and make a hard turn.
Any idea what went wrong?
Thanks for your video
Hi Thanks for the video, just to note, we have attempted to do my Dads 12 plate freelander 2 this weekend, managed to do the filter etc and even got the pump out, but cannot get the pump back in. our flange looks different to yours almost like the prop fits inside the diff flange which makes it slightly wider, you cant line the pump up to get it to slot in without it binding.
Hello! Hmmm that's rather frustrating you managed to get the pump out but not back in! Assuming you removed the housing from the pump itself? That allows you to put the pump back in sliding the pump housing over it, if that helps?
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips Yes we tried every avenue. i have done some more digging and my dads 12 plate is fitted with the vibration damper on the flange, hence why its slightly wider. so unfortunately it looks like we are taking the flange off in situ (if possible) or removing the whole haldex unit to then remove the flange. Oh i cant wait lol.
@@josephwiggins3021 Oh no! That's really strange why Land Rover decided to do that. I know with the first generation of the Freelander 2 they had the Gen 3 Haldex then they fitted the Gen 4's to the newer shape. Out of interest I know you said your dads was a 12 plate, does it have the upgraded LED rear lights and updated headlamps? I'm wondering if it's the last of the facelifts?
On my 2013 year there’s some sort of vibration damper on the rear of the propshaft right in front of the pump,which looks impossible to remove the pump,also I believe you have to turn the ignition on for a few minutes to allow the oil to go through the pump.
Oh! That’s interesting, I thought they would have been the same, just trim differences. How very strange. That’s something we did just sadly not in our video! Learnt a fair few things doing this video 😂 Remember batteries for torch or have a better light for when working underneath the car.
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips When I took mine to Bell for a haldex pump problem they changed the huge propshaft damper for the smaller one to make future services easier. It makes no difference to the NVH inside the car.
When can we book our car into "Frenchies Motor Mechanics" and will you accept chocolate digestives as a form of payment? 😁 But seriously, great work. 👍😀
Ben said always happy to help if you need anything! 😁🛞 Hahah oooo who doesn’t like chocolate digestives! 🍪 Ahhh thank you! 😁🙏👍
Hi guys, I followed your instructions to the point where I undid the pump 4x screws (2x small, 2x bigger) from the Haldex - and the pump housing came away revealing the electrical connections - did you then pull/lever with a screwdriver that cylinder housing right off first before removing the pump unit itself? I think I was nearly there 🙄 Cheers
Worth noting yours is a gen4, on the gen3 ones it’s pretty impossible to take the pump off without removing the drive shaft etc
My toolbox just gathers dust since I went from a Land Rover to a Nissan Xtrail
Ahhh but it’s good fun! 😁😂
Where’s the fun in that 😂😂😂
Do you also can add some data to the change, like what's the part number of the haldex oil filter, the original oil for lr2 haldex and how much NM torque all the bolts need?
Good job, I see quite many people asking why LR is asking to withdraw 70ml from Haldex and 120ml from transfer case. One potential reason is thermal expansion but Haldex is commonly used on other cars transmisions, do they require the same ? BTW what is the cost of changing oil and filter in the authorized service in UK ? BR KP
I have an Evoque 2014 which has the gen4 Haldex. I went through a puddle today because of Storm Babet, Dundee was just one flowing river. Now I believe I have an issue with the Haldex. No warnings or anything just not engaging the rear diff correctly, so I get a clonk because of fwd and rear misalignment. Could the Haldex just be water logged or the pump shorting out preventing it from operating. RR has full service history, so I would expect it to have had a service. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Hey! Sorry to hear what’s happened, sounds really bad up your way. Strangely enough I’ve just replied to another person about a similar issue. They described their issue as a snatching/jolting, not sure if this is what you are experiencing?
It could well be the Haldex, I’d check when the Haldex was last serviced? They need an oil/filter change every 2 years but don’t get covered on Land Rover service schedules as considered “sealed for life” units.
The Evoque of your age is a Freelander just with a different shell. Do you have an automatic or manual? Does the clonk happen at any specific times? Like going from Park to Drive? I would have thought if the pump had a problem you would have had a message on the dashboard. But it’s worth getting the Haldex checked I think.
With deep water be careful as a wading depth of 500mm it doesn’t take much for water to get into the diffs. Let us know how you get on or if we can try and help more! 🙂
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips it only happens when I'm gear and applying power. If the clutch is depressed then the binding/jolt clonk starts in the rear. I have disengaged the Haldex and all stops.
@@shanepiper Ahhh I was thinking about suggesting that, have heard you can take the fuse out for the Haldex! If you can would be worth looking at the condition of the pump.
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips now the rain has stopped for a bit I'm going to check the connections. The water might have shorted the pump connections. Hoping it's nothing too expensive to fix 😕
@@shanepiper Keeping fingers crossed! If you have a good code reader might worth plugging in and see if any faults have been registered? 🤞
As i have a problem with my Heldex, is whinning with the Diff also .ive had my freelander 2 Sport LE from brand new 2011 ,vehicle serviced every year never missed and i cant see on any of my bills the heldex has ever been serviced,so why are the 2 units whinning,i was told yrs ago it doesnt have to be serviced ive spoke to my garage over the yrs as i have gone to same garsge for 25 yrs,to replace both 3 grand .ive done in nearly 14 yrs 75,000 miles .so a bit confused,if the heldex should be serviced why hasnt it..
Can you guys enlighten me ..Thanks Gordy
Hello! 🙂 The Haldex units were described as sealed for life. However, overtime the oil inside turns into sludge and clogs the filter inside starving the pump of oil. It’s worth getting it fully serviced and checked over it’s never been done 👍
Hi I have just bought a 14 plate FreeLander 2 dynamic , it’s got 106,000 on the clock and there is no evidence to suggest the Haldex has been serviced , I contacted my local Landrover dealer and another 4x4 specialist and they both asked if I was having problems with the gears or if there was a warning light on the dash , I told them no , and they said to leave it alone as it can cause more problems interfering with the system ?? But after watching your vid surly it needs done , so don’t know why the “experts “ are taking this stance !! Thoughts please , great vid Lads
Cheers Cnris
Hello! Glad you liked the video! 😁 Sadly the “sealed for life” unit isn’t the case. The oil will degrade inside a bit like an engine or differential if not changed regularly. There is a filter inside which needs changing both inside the unit and on the pump. About 2 years ago we only managed to change the black filter and oil.
But this time managed to change the oil, filter and get the pump out giving it a good clean! Would definitely recommend getting it serviced! 🙂🙌
Cheers Lads👍
hello yall. do you think a noise coming from it could be because needs a sevices ? thanks for the video
Hello! 🙂 It could well need a service depends on the noise it is making. They do make a slight noise when operating but anything else could suggest something is wrong.
4TH GENERATION IS ABOVE ON TOP UNIT, MORE AWKARD TO REMOVE. THAT'S A GENERATION 3 PUMP YOU ARE DOING. 4TH GENERATION IS ANOTHER 180 DEGREE UP. EVEN THOUGH 4TH IS MORE AKWARD TO GET AT YOU STILL DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE FLANGE. JUST NEED THE RIGHT TOOLS. ABOUT 30 INUTES DOES THE COMPLETE JOB.
It is a gen 4 Haldex 😁 Gen 3 was fitted up to 2008 Freelander 2s
What is considered the right tool? Please help!
Hi Guys, that was a really great and informative video thank you very much for posting 👍🏼 i have a 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE and it's developed an intermittent snatching/jolting. This mainly happens when under acceleration, there are no warning lights that have come up in the dash so would like your thought's as to possibly what this could be? And do you think it could be a Haldex related problem? Any advice here would be very welcome thank you Paul 👍🏼
Hey Paul, thank you! Glad you liked the video 🙂 Hmmm ok, this could be a number of different things. Is your car automatic or manual? If Automatic, software updates were available to remedy a clunk, usually going from park to drive and improved general driving.
Do you know when the Haldex was last serviced? They need oil changes every 2 years to ensure the pump doesn’t get starved of oil. Rear differentials every 10years.
Another thing to consider is when the fuel filter was last replaced? They also need replacing every 2 years. The Freelanders do suffer with a cough every now and then usually in warmer weather, many have tried to find the fault but unsuccessful. If we can be of more help let us know! 🙂
@@FrenchiesRoadTrips Hi Guys, thank you so much for replying back to me. My Freelander 2 is a manual so that rules out the Automatic potential problem straight away 👌🏼 As to regarding a HALDEX Service the car has got really low mileage on 69,000 and we've had it since 2012 and as far as i can remember have never had the Haldex Serviced 🙈 (what are we like) so that will be the first thing that will get done now thanks to both you guys on the posting of the Haldex Service so kind of you 🙏🏼
Also i think the last time it had a full service was 2yrs ago (as haven't done the mileage) so as you say the fuel filter probably needs changing now. What's your thoughts on a potential "Failing Injector" for this Snatching/Jolting Issue? Once again thank you so much for your great RUclips Channel i have found a very valuable and also entertaining resource here so keep posting guys loving your video's thank you 🙏🏼
Kind Regards,
Paul 👍🏼...
@@PauleyPaul07 Ahhh nice! 😁 Bens is a manual, though think sometimes he’d prefer an auto! 😅 Yes definitely, if you’ve not had the Haldex serviced in the time you’ve owned the car get it done soon as you can. It was never on a normal service as Land Rover considered it a “Sealed For Life” unit, hmmm 😅
So with the potentially failing injector, do you have black smoke? Sound of knocking from the engine with misfiring? Struggling to start? Those are usual signs of injectors failing. Hope this helps 🙂
Ahhh thank you very much! Really grateful for the support! 😁
@@PauleyPaul07sarsma sorununu çözebildiniz mi?
Hi, did you disconnect the battery, prior to unplugging the module? Thanks great vid
Hello 🙂 Ahhh good question! No we didn’t unplug the battery. Hope this helps! 🙌👍
Hello, how many milligrams of fat does it take?
Hi! are you sure it's the right method to make the oil level? I think that way is right for the differential but not for the haldex... Isn't it safer to put as much as you take away? anyway good video!:)
Hello! 😁 A very good point! Glad you liked the video 🙂 We have heard about removing so much oil after filling it, think we’ve also heard this about the PTU or something similar 😅 It seems very odd why you would remove oil, potentially leaving the unit with less than it needs.
Ben has always followed the principle of filling up the components with oil until they start to drain and then stop, that way you know for sure it has enough oil. Has always worked for us 🙌😁
tooth brush warm water washing liquid,rather than brake cleaner as thats solvent based could burn or shrink that plastic filter !!!!!
I’ll let Ben know 😅 Thanks! Although he’s been using brake cleaner for years!
What's the benefits of just doing the pump as apposed to the whole unit?
Hello! 🙂 Ben serviced it two years ago but only replaced the oil and filter as back then didn’t know how to remove the pump. He thought this time to remove the pump as he had seen online how bad the filter on the end of the pump can get!
I think if you could remove the whole unit, you could probably take it apart further but not sure what else there is to service. I’m not sure there is anything else to do. If the unit was to fail it would have to be replaced but changing the oil, filter and cleaning the pump filter is probably the best things you can do to prolong the life of the Haldex a bit like an engine 🙂👍
зачем карданный вал прикрутили рано? он мешает фильтр снять. и нужно было крышку насоса снять: там много пыли от щёток.
Why was the driveshaft screwed in early? it prevents you from removing the filter. you need to remove the pump cover: there is a lot of dirt.
а уровень залитого масла определить забыл?!
Did you forget to determine the oil level?