That was a really helpful video, Stephen. Thanks very much. Something this 79 year can tackle without any heavy lifting. I am very grateful you for explaining it so clearly & showing close-ups when necessary. Brilliant.
Useful video, just used info to do mine. I notice your kit had two locking pins but you only used one on the RHS. LOOKS Like your spring is quite slack.
your video has given me the confidence to have a go. i like it how you zoom in on the components so you can see and compare with your own door. fingers crossed its as easy as your say :)
Job done .. hollow pins were a nightmare to get out but after hours of whacking and pulling they popped out. Everything else was like your video. Thanks for making the effort
Great video. Like yours the pulleys are close to the wall and your vid explained how to cope with this. Unfortunately The cables bought were too short. How do I specify the length when buying them. Great video. Bernard Parker
Hi, we have the same garage door cones but can't buy replacements that are the same. Would you be able to help us and tell us where you got your parts from, and what the maje of door you have? Thanks your video is very helpful
I guess I need more bits than I thought! I ordered the cones and cables, which came with the hollow pins. But not the tensioner rods or the hook pins! Guess I'm buggered until I get some of them!
That was my 1st time and recorded by myself as I was doing it. With no prior knowledge of how to do it. As I have said before if you are good at DIY it's possible to do yourself if not pay for a professional. There are plenty of professionals waiting to take tour money. Happy DIY ing. 😊
Just wondering what happens if my spring has lost all the tension. I changed both cones and both rollers on the side my they are no tension on my spring. I do have the tools to do it but am kinda lost
I found it impossible to drive the hollow pins into the cone however much I tried. Also the cables seemed to be 2" too long! What can I do now? Any help would be much appreciated as I had to leave the door half open all night with my car up against it as a token safety precaution.
Hello man,I tried with my one,and I know I am really close so I don' want to give up,but there is one last thing missing as after I replaced cones and cables,ona cable still goes off track when I open the door,any suggestions!Please!!!
This is quite an old video, but I'm hoping you're still around to answer my question. It looks as though you left all the tension on the spring when you unscrewed the bracket from the wall - could you confirm that please? Last time I did my door both cables snapped and all the spring tension went, so no problem with that, however this time only one has gone, so the spring is still fully tensioned and I'm a bit windy about taking the bracket of in case it spins round and takes my finger off or something! It looks like the long lever took up the strain when you did it though. (I have all the crook pins, pin punch etc from the last time I did it).
I had to do this recently. I had to remove the bracket screws, so I could slide the cones off (and slide the new ones on). So long as you take some of the tension off, by using the pry bars, then insert your crook pin (be careful here that you use the crook pin the right way around, so that it takes the tension when you release the pry bar - just take your time, it will become clear. E.g. you (or an assistant if you have one) will be pushing up to take off tension (the cables will become slack) and the crook pin needs to be pushed in (when aligned so you can push the pin in on the right hand side). Then gradually ease back on the pry bar to let the crook pin take the strain. You can then remove the bracket screws to allow access.
@@grantgrove6800 Thanks Grant. The job is done now, and as you say, it's fine to remove the bracket with the spring tensioned as long as the crook pin is in place taking the strain - there's no way the bar can rotate with the crook pin in, as the RH bracket is also the mounting point for the static end of the spring (I convinced myself of that before doing it, but I was still nervous as I unscrewed the bracket lol.)
Trying this myself. Replacing left roller and cable first. Took some tension off the spring about three quarters of a turn and used crook pin in left hand bracket. Banged out roll pin and loosened wall brackets. However the whole assembly seemed to be in tension as just before removing the top bolt the whole assembly was lifting, rotating around the top bolt as though in tension. I don’t understand what I’m doing wrong and worried it will Suddenly twist or collapse, so have reassembled. Can anyone help? What am I doing wrong?
@@markgadsby5568 Yes, the brackets are also supporting the weight of the door, so make sure you put chocks underneath it first to take the weight, otherwise you'll have a hard time getting the brackets back in position (don't ask how I know).
Such a pity you didnt show how to change the bottom roller or if you didnt how you managed to loop the cable over the roller. Im still looking for a video that shows this.
Start making sense. I will start working on mine now. And let know how it was done. Look quite simple on this video unlike the guy who's camera was two meters behind him.
with all respect you really could of done with a pair of mole grips so you do not give other people the idea of using a piece of timber similar to what you did... ( tension kit is NOT supplied with the cones & cables ) you also need to mention to oil the parts you replaced..
Video ends with the words "as simple as that".......which it probably is if you show the stages undertaken with clear and detailed description. Nor really helpfull
That was a really helpful video, Stephen. Thanks very much. Something this 79 year can tackle without any heavy lifting. I am very grateful you for explaining it so clearly & showing close-ups when necessary. Brilliant.
Ive got the exact same problem with the wall being up against the cone...thanks for showing how its done.
Many thanks for the clear instructions and clear video. Appreciate your public service mind set.
At last a video that explains this process. Most other videos has the host either getting in the way or not describing some of the procedure fully.
Great video, changed family members cables and reels. Very helpful video, thank you 👍🤓
Useful video, just used info to do mine. I notice your kit had two locking pins but you only used one on the RHS. LOOKS Like your spring is quite slack.
your video has given me the confidence to have a go. i like it how you zoom in on the components so you can see and compare with your own door. fingers crossed its as easy as your say :)
Job done .. hollow pins were a nightmare to get out but after hours of whacking and pulling they popped out. Everything else was like your video. Thanks for making the effort
The video was very helpfull thanks stephen , my garage now opens , spot on , excellent video mate
Great video. Like yours the pulleys are close to the wall and your vid explained how to cope with this. Unfortunately The cables bought were too short. How do I specify the length when buying them. Great video. Bernard Parker
Very helpful to watch this before tackling the job myself, thank you
Great video, made the job easy, only part that caught me out was hooking the cable on, had to loosen a screw on the guide. Thanks.
At last someone on youtube fixes a garage door properly!
Hi, we have the same garage door cones but can't buy replacements that are the same. Would you be able to help us and tell us where you got your parts from, and what the maje of door you have? Thanks your video is very helpful
Hi I am tensioning mine but only the left side is tensioning the right is not spooling any ideas?
you say that you punched the pin out of the cone all the way in to the timber?..how do you get it out of the timber? or do we have to use a new pin?
If you don't have a tensioner rod can you use something like a screwdriver? There was no rod in the kit I bought
How do you get the strings tight I tighten 1 and the other goes loose
I guess I need more bits than I thought! I ordered the cones and cables, which came with the hollow pins. But not the tensioner rods or the hook pins! Guess I'm buggered until I get some of them!
Great really appreciate that you took the time to help out with this video
Good video,thanks.I think I should be able to isolate the spring tension and get the new cables on but it seems there might be problems after that.
That was my 1st time and recorded by myself as I was doing it. With no prior knowledge of how to do it. As I have said before if you are good at DIY it's possible to do yourself if not pay for a professional. There are plenty of professionals waiting to take tour money. Happy DIY ing. 😊
Just wondering what happens if my spring has lost all the tension. I changed both cones and both rollers on the side my they are no tension on my spring. I do have the tools to do it but am kinda lost
I found it impossible to drive the hollow pins into the cone however much I tried. Also the cables seemed to be 2" too long! What can I do now? Any help would be much appreciated as I had to leave the door half open all night with my car up against it as a token safety precaution.
Hello man,I tried with my one,and I know I am really close so I don' want to give up,but there is one last thing missing as after I replaced cones and cables,ona cable still goes off track when I open the door,any suggestions!Please!!!
I am attempting this on my door at the weekend. I don't suppose you have a video of each step. It seems to skip over a few steps. Thanks
I am about to do this. the plaster on your hand worries me though. 😆. Thanks for the info.
My right hand cable is not broken it’s just jump the cone what is the procedure for this
This is quite an old video, but I'm hoping you're still around to answer my question. It looks as though you left all the tension on the spring when you unscrewed the bracket from the wall - could you confirm that please? Last time I did my door both cables snapped and all the spring tension went, so no problem with that, however this time only one has gone, so the spring is still fully tensioned and I'm a bit windy about taking the bracket of in case it spins round and takes my finger off or something! It looks like the long lever took up the strain when you did it though. (I have all the crook pins, pin punch etc from the last time I did it).
I had to do this recently. I had to remove the bracket screws, so I could slide the cones off (and slide the new ones on). So long as you take some of the tension off, by using the pry bars, then insert your crook pin (be careful here that you use the crook pin the right way around, so that it takes the tension when you release the pry bar - just take your time, it will become clear. E.g. you (or an assistant if you have one) will be pushing up to take off tension (the cables will become slack) and the crook pin needs to be pushed in (when aligned so you can push the pin in on the right hand side). Then gradually ease back on the pry bar to let the crook pin take the strain. You can then remove the bracket screws to allow access.
@@grantgrove6800 Thanks Grant. The job is done now, and as you say, it's fine to remove the bracket with the spring tensioned as long as the crook pin is in place taking the strain - there's no way the bar can rotate with the crook pin in, as the RH bracket is also the mounting point for the static end of the spring (I convinced myself of that before doing it, but I was still nervous as I unscrewed the bracket lol.)
Trying this myself. Replacing left roller and cable first. Took some tension off the spring about three quarters of a turn and used crook pin in left hand bracket. Banged out roll pin and loosened wall brackets. However the whole assembly seemed to be in tension as just before removing the top bolt the whole assembly was lifting, rotating around the top bolt as though in tension. I don’t understand what I’m doing wrong and worried it will Suddenly twist or collapse, so have reassembled. Can anyone help? What am I doing wrong?
@@markgadsby5568 Yes, the brackets are also supporting the weight of the door, so make sure you put chocks underneath it first to take the weight, otherwise you'll have a hard time getting the brackets back in position (don't ask how I know).
What can you do if one side is slack? I’ve replaced both ends, but one side is a different length...
Such a pity you didnt show how to change the bottom roller or if you didnt how you managed to loop the cable over the roller. Im still looking for a video that shows this.
Having real trouble driving the pins into the new cones. Any tips?
Clear as mud
Start making sense. I will start working on mine now. And let know how it was done. Look quite simple on this video unlike the guy who's camera was two meters behind him.
cheers man, RUclips need more vids like this instead of cat videos and fake ass prank vids
i take it back Cat vids are pretty jokes
🐐.Thanks
I can’t follow this at all. Would have helped if someone had filmed you as you did each step.
Nice one mate.....................Cheers
You didn't show how you put the cable on at roller pin at the bottom
wedge it with timber ? have you ever been on a fair ride ? 😆
with all respect you really could of done with a pair of mole grips so you do not give other people the idea of using a piece of timber similar to what you did... ( tension kit is NOT supplied with the cones & cables )
you also need to mention to oil the parts you replaced..
the plaster was an unrelated incident. ha ha. Spray some lubricant on the cones and cable when done. good luck.
thanks for the tips
Cheers mate
Thanks mate
Video ends with the words "as simple as that".......which it probably is if you show the stages undertaken with clear and detailed description. Nor really helpfull
Wedge it with timber? FFS, good risk assessment LOL
Wasn’t clear what to do - sorry, I found this useless
for all HENDERSON FITTING INSTRUCTIONS SEE THIS LINK www.garagedoor-spares.com/technical-guides/
Very unhelpful video for what I’m doing no offense, this is a JARVIS back up voice actor right here!
Not enough information. No mention of the cables. Bad demo. There are better.