Toyota A/C not working B1479. Watch before replacing compressor
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- Опубликовано: 19 июл 2022
- When the a/c compressor quits working you may or may not have to replace it. By checking a few things before replacing the compressor you may save hundreds of dollars.
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I have a 2012 Camry SE with the 3.5L V6 engine. A/c went out so I took it to my mechanic. He said the clutch was bad and the whole compressor needs replaced; quoted me over $1,300. I wanted to see how hard it would be to do myself, so I searched RUclips and found this and another video talking about the flow sensor. I just tested out the method with the magnet and it worked! I have a new flow sensor coming from Amazon for $25 and will put it in myself; looks like I'll just need to remove the coolant reservoir in the front to gain access. Thanks!
How'd it go
$1300 man what a scam!
Thank you so much! I picked up a 15lb pull magnetic retriever from Harbor Freight for $5 and the trick worked! This will save my ass here in hot Florida until I can do the permanent fix. Bless you sir!
Yeah its too hot down here
Thanks for posting I had the same issue on my 2014 Avalon, so I did the same test and it ended up being this sensor. Thanks, you saved me a lot of money. Keep the videos coming. Oreilly's had the part in stock (#926-818) for $55.00 vs $725.99 for the compressor.
Give this man a nobleprize !!!
love honest people like you. sharing these informative videos. saves us folks a lot of money, and also stops us from getting scammed by shady mechanics. thank you!
I almost change the clime control module thinking that the switch was not working. thank you for the info 👍
Worked on my 2011 RAV4. Thank you so much great video!
This worked for me …. Symptoms I was getting: AC would blow cold 75% of the time. We would have to turn up the AC to high just for it to get going, but it would stay mid to high most of the time and would still stop blowing cold air for 10-20 min. At $26 on Amazon I need only to take off the coolant over flow (2 bolts) for better access. I did not even remove the old one as I didn’t have a retaining ring tool. BTW- 14’ SE w/ 180k miles.
I'm glad I found this.
I bought a magnetic stick from Home Depot and it didn't work and the magnets I had at home didn't work either and was just barely staying on and then the vibration restarting the car knocked it off.
So I got some rare earth magnets from Home Depot and they were MUCH stronger than the one in the stick and that I already had and THAT made it finally work.
So if anyone tries this and it isn't working or you find your magnet doesn't stick securely, it's probably just not strong enough to activate it.
Get a rare earth one that takes a bit of effort to pull apart and that should do it.
Just tired magnet from harbor fright 15lbs not working or I’m not hitting the right spot ?
Awsome video I had the same issue and ended up being the same thing. Thanks!!!!
Thank you so much for your great videos you are the best thank you
Thanks for the magnet tip.
PS. Maybe a laser pointer will help point out parts in future videos. ;)
Bro you are the boss this thing had me two days after watching your video I confirm it’s the compressor
You are amazing！Toyota dealer told me need a new compressor and charge me 3000 for that，and I use your way to check，just this sensor， and it works，dealer is shit！
Thanks for this video. You saved me a lot of money.
Amazing. It worked right away. If I just hook the sensor to the connector it will work? Not sure how easy that c clamp is going to be to get out and back in
excellent video thanks for your time👍
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I had the sensor changed new fan blower freon added it all turns on and the ac still won’t get cold ?
I have a Toyota sienna that only cools when it’s running. If parked with AC on the air blows warm. Could this be the issue?
Thanks a lot bro! I have a 4runner 05 doing the same.
my car ac blows hot air, not cold. I was told the compressor needs to be completely replaced. any thoughts? Should I get a second opinion?
please where can i get the replacement part b1479
The Flow Valve is another common Toyota issue. In that case the coolant has to be properly removed. That one can be a bit more difficult first to get to it and second to get it out ( they sort of corrode and become stuck ). There’s also a C clip ( another pain in the butt ). Toyota also doesn’t sell just that part they want you to buy the whole compressor. One other thing that sometimes pops up is the AC Expansion valve. The last and relatively easiest fix could be the AC Relay but I would think that nothing would work on the AC if that was blown. AC coolant doesn’t just disappear, if you are low on it you probably have a leak.
2013 sienna fan 1 and 2 fan cold air cold coming out but 3,4,5,6 i pressed to more air but it blows warm why
I wished if you recorded the process of replacing the flow sensor , it would be the perfect video for this problem 💔
& how and where did you find the sensor do you have the link .
Nice show
I have a Corolla 11 that works for 8 minutes and stops the compressor. When I turn the button off and on, it comes back on and also for 8 minutes and stops the compressor. Is there something specific at the bottom of the flow sensor that cuts off the current? What should I do? Fix it or change the compressor. Does the same problem remain after changing the compressor? Please help.
Thanks 🙏 save the day
Going to try this first, let yall know. Replaced relays, regulator, motor blower, and ready to order a compressor. I'll try this 1st!!
great video
It seems to be a common problem. Another “ trouble spot “ is the AC relay “ in the fuse box under the hood which is also an inexpensive repair ( $20-$40???? ) so if you try the magnet test on the flow sensor and that’s not the issue, try the relay.
how will i know which part that is? or just ask parts store for the AC relay for my model/year?
Can you just tape the magnet to the sensor?
Lol. Good question. Try it and let me know.
G: Thanks for this amazing hack. is it normal for this (Denso type: TSE17C) compressor clutch to be always rotate with belt while car is on and even ac off. also I'm getting little rattle noise from compressor after system fully leaked discharged and charged again, do you think I need add Pag oil to compressor to compensate for oil loss. If that is needed so, do you add to low pressure line or direct to compressor? Thank you again
It is normal for the compressor clutch to rotate at all times. And yes you should add oil to compensate for any loss.
So last year we added freon and it started blowing cold air. This season its no longer blowing cold could it be the sensor or is it just leaking?
If you have to add refrigerant constantly then you have a leak
I tried the magnet but it didn’t on the compressor after replacing the new compressor
I have a 2003 camry - did they have this that far back in the same place? or where would it be? - thanks
No i believe it started in 08. But i could be wrong
Which Autel scanner you using?
if it is an older car the sensor will be corroded on to the pump. so be prepared to smash it all apart with a hammer for a few hours and dig it out.. sometimes you are better off using JB weld and weld a magnet to the top of the sensor..
I have 2010 Camry. My AC blows warm in passenger side and warmer on the driver side. Compressor works good. what can be the problem?
Check pressures. If i blows cooler on one side and warmer on the other you may be low on refrigerant
My ac light turns off after a few seconds of being on
You are awesome my boy!!! You deserve some beers 🍻 I hope you're around my area ....I'll pay for everything even putas!!!
Thanks. Always down for beers,but ill pass on the latter part lol.
😮😮😮😮
My flow sensor reads 4.37V when the ac/fan turns on but once the fan shuts off; the ac stops working....blowing out warm/hot air. With the ac not blowing cold air; it still reads 4.37V.
System was just charged also
Any ideas/advice?
That was it hell yah brother
Hey Brother, love your videos. I have a 2015 with a compressor that does not start….as you know there is no clutch on these one I have voltage at the control valve which I replaced just in case, I have freon and everything check out but compressor not starting. I have been searching and it looks like there is no flow sensor on this model, any ideas man? It is driving me crazy.
Verify all inputs from sensors to if maybe the module is seeing something it doesn't like. Also verify that the flow valve is been commanded by the module. If you have a bi directional scanner try to command the compressor. If you can then for sure the module is not activating the compressor. Also make sure that the compressor it self is not bad. Do a complete system scan, i have seen where some engine code cause the ac not to work
My compressor is running but the air blowing hot, what else could it be? The guy at auto store said it was the compressor because we tried putting in freon ( don't know if he really knew what he was doing )
You will have to check pressures. It could be the compressor but with out checking pressures it difficult to say. At the part stores they normally use those quick recharge kits. Most dont read pressure
@@gautorepair OH ok, thank you.
@@gautorepair OH ok, thank you!
I have a camry 2007. My issue is when i turn the AC on while car stands still sometimes it works but most of the time it blows hot air but when my car is moving specially on high way it blows cold air. I checked the condensor fans both are working fine and also i refilled the gas. Can you please help me diagnose the issue?
You may have a weak compressor. Check pressures
@@gautorepair so if a compressor is weak, is it possible to repair the same compressor or i have to replace it?
You may find a shop where they can rebuilt it. But its best just to replace and do an ac overhaul
Any updates? I’m having the same issue
Check condenser fan (passenger side). When AC is on both fans should spin, not just the one on the driver side.
Isn't that sensor the pressure sensor so if the gas is low it won't start the compressor?
Negative. It is a flow sensor
Can you leave a small magnet on the sensor?? I heard that works😃
Many in comments have said it works
What if one of the fans isn't kicking on. My right side is going but my left won't turn on. If both aren't working at the same time I've noticed that the car won't condensate
Need to look into that. Both should be working
Is your ac working?
That magnet trick was smart thinking. Are you sure the sensor can be replaced without removing the refrigerant? In every sensor replacement video that I have come across the refrigerant is removed before replacing the sensor.
Positive. As long as you don't have to remove an ac line to get to it. I have done a few already. I had to remove the refrigerant on one because it was hard to get to the sensor without removing a line.
To remove the control valve on the compressor you have to recovery the refrigerant. Not for the flow sensor.
@@gautorepair the
@@gautorepair pooooo
@@gautorepair of you guys o
it seems the Yaris does not have a flow sensor.... Dangit...
The other night on St. Rd. 1 IL, I hit or ran over a very Large Racoon. The poor beast took out a fog light and effected my A/C. Not sure if a sensor or something else suffered the battle damage.
I have a Toyota Camry LE 2014 4-cylinder with an AC I bought the car in 2014 since then has throwing oily fumes on my windshield even though the AC is off. When I set the vent to get outside air only, it throws hot air and the windshield gets oily. I cannot find anything to remove the oil from the windshield. The problem is increasing to the point that it makes it dangerous to drive it especially when it rains. Could you give me some advice?
Maybe a ruptured heater core. Do you loose coolant.
My 2010 Corolla LE with 126k, has an AC issue. Turn on the AC on a hot summer afternoon day in South Florida even all the way on high setting and it blows warm air for five minutes. After five minutes I can feel the cool air starting to blow. My mechanic replaced the AC refregeriant but it does not solve the issue.. Will replacing the A/C flow sensor solve my issue? Also, is the voltage for the sensor the same for the Corolla?
I looked on RockAuto and they don't seem to have a flow sensor for my 2010 Corolla. I find a Electronically Controlled Compressor Control Valve. Is this the same thing?
Any update? I have same issue
@@leelakrishna888 I had asked the CCN and he thinks "Likely a sticking flow valve at the compressor. I wouldn’t do anything until it goes out completely". But need to find a good place to troubleshoot.
@@savio1172 I'm yet to try the magnet 🧲 thing....but I see only one side fan running of two....it gets fool in the night.. especially on highway rides... If Stop at some point..it gradually becomes little warm
@@savio1172 in the afternoon or sunny day it's literally hot air ...when I stop at traffic signal for two minutes..temp gauge goes high which won't even for 8 hour long Highway ride....so confusing lol
@@leelakrishna888 So about a month back, mine was not cooling effectively, even after running it for 4-5 minutes and windows down. Even at max the cold air was not cool enough. So, took it to a local shop and they told me my refrigerant was down to like 43%. So, they refilled it and added a dye. Now it still takes 4-5 minute to start the cold air flowing, but once it's on high it's much cooler and seems to be effective with the heat down here in S. Florida. But I still have to run the AC for 4-5 minutes and only then I start feeling cool air through the vents. So, Initially for the first 4-5 minutes the air blowing is warm. So, my windows are fully down as it's too hot down here. But i need to find a really good AC shop to diagnose this issue.
I think I’m having this problem
What if only the passenger side is still blowing cold air? But the driver's side isn't.
Chances are you are low on refrigerant
@@gautorepair thank you G I appreciate it.
Because the passenger side is working good but the driver side isn't and I can't find anybody that talks about that.
Typical symptom of an under charged system
@Rene Leon may duel selection activated.
What does it mean when it blows cooler on the right center dash vent than the left but your coolant is showing a little over charged?
Normally that is a symptom of low charge.
@@gautorepair you're correct sir. I connected the gauges while the car was running and read it wrong 🤦🏾. I recharged it but I did have a considerable leak. Had the same issue last summer but the leak eventually sealed. Will get the refrigerant with dye and try to locate it. Thanks for the sower quick reply.
@L.C._2012 no problem. Hope you get it resolved. It is HOT!!!!
15 minutes about one sensor?!
Its well detailed dude. Appreciate stuff