AC not blowing cold, then it works fine !?!? What could cause this ?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 21 июн 2022
- When the AC pressures are normal on this Altima , the AC works perfectly. So why does the AC stop working suddenly and the pressure max out ?
#keepwrenching #wesselmotorworks #wrenchingwithkenny #airconditioner #airconditioning
Air Conditioner air conditioning freon R134 AC system AC not blowing cold AC pressures Expansion Valve Air Conditioner Recharge Авто/Мото
Man the most valuable part of this video is how you got that bolt out!!! That’s a 4-5 hour task
This man fixed the problem and that is all that matters, you can truly tell he cares as well, god bless you.
AC guy with a few decades under my belt. Train and test for AC 608 and 609 certification.. Do maintenance and repair as well as theory training. This scenario will be tough. Simply replacing the valve, and really the dryer at a minimum means this system will absolutely grenade itself again in short order. When you see that black coating and gunk in the TXV valve like that it is contamination. Likely this one has had a small leak (service port cap left off, schraeder valve leak PUT THE SERVICE PORT CAPS BACK WHEN YOU ARE DONE!) resulting in topping the system off several times. Refrigerant leaks out, air gets in whamo bammo add more refrigerant, it cools OK, for a while. For you see when moisture gets into the POE or PAG oil (likely this is PAG) the oil absorbs the moisture (hygroscopic just like hydraulic brake fluid) turning into a dirty slimy gel like you see in the old valve. Anything we do in good intentions now given that we will likely NOT be able to flush this thing out (Thanks EPA for forcing car makers to be more environmentally "friendly" using more compact heat exchangers) This car needs it all, valve, dryer, evap, cond, lines and oil. This one will only die again SOON and cost more every time. And BTW so of that gack we see in the valve probably has fine metal in it given the age of the car showing us the compressor is on the way out too.....Remove the filter dryer and dump the oil out of it...bet you see more slime and metal.....I would hand this one back to the customer with explanation and a NO SALE invoice labor only for a diagnosis this is a non fix unless you do it right.
I have a Kia soul 2012 with 74K miles. Compressor is leaking oil, maybe coming from the valve. System is working fine, cooling as usual or normal. I bought a brand-new compressor. Do you think is ok to replace just the compressor or it needs to replace expansion valve and drier? If I have to replace drier, I have to open it, so moisture will get in, is not better to buy the whole condenser that is coming with drier inside?
Very interesting
Great video - including the explanation of the expansion valve and what it does. Thanks!
Having driven a 2002 Altima for 262K miles and fixing a lot of things myself, I felt a little twinge of PTSD watching this video. Working down near the firewall (ABS, A/C, etc.), I had my fair share of cut knuckles and fingers, and streams of profanity.
Great video. The description of the video title is what brought me in as I have the same issue. Thanks!
appreciate the video. My civic is doing the same thing. Wonder if thats it. Props to you for getting that bolt out, what a PITA that must have been.
Thanks Kenny .all music to my ears .enjoy all you’re vids .thanks again.👍👍👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️
That's a lot of knowledge you gave us.
Thanks for the video,on the Nissan.
Cold A/C. Everyone loves.😉☮️🤙
Your a fine mechanic I don’t say that very often I’ve been turning a wrench for fourth years, I’d bet your quite fair charging your customers I would have tagged around $125.00 labor plus parts so keep up the excellent work my friend
Victor j
Thank you for such a great video.
Great video. Thanks
I am very impressed by your diagnostic skills
Awesome video it helps a lot thank you
Can you imagine you didn't get that torx out?. Awesome video it helps a lot thank you.
Good evening,great explanation on task done,great description on what needed to be done n all the troubles coming as the job was moving forward,a doctor of the @/c system on vehicles,I'm confident to say,the Mr has gotten some good schooling learning n understanding on how this job works,thumbs up to you n my hat off Mr ....
Excellent video
Watching as many videos as possible & learning more with every video.
Nice job 👏👏👏👏👏
Great job Kenny enjoyed the video you do fantastic job and love how you explain what you’re doing and why things happen 😊
Learned alot,!
As an hvac tech. I prefer a good ole piston metering device over a txv anyday. Expansion valves have moving parts that just fail. A bored piston will never fail.
Very informative. I just replaced my compressor and condenser. Bought the car with a seized compressor. Now my clutch kicks on and off as I drove home from charging my system. I did notice that i had lack of power like the compressor had alot of load on it and its a v8 shoulnt be struggling on the freeway. So this really narrows it down for me. Im going to do another thuro check to make sure this is my issue which im already 100% sure it is
Luckily you didn't have to take the evaporator out. Good job sir.
Nice work
Awesome!!
Thanks for another great video, kenny .
I've had to change the TXV on my old Honda Accord project car a couple of times, the exact same symptoms. If you just start the car up cold, the a/c would blow super cold and show normal pressures with the proper charge level. But after you drive it for 2 or 3 mins, it would start cycling all the time, and lugging the engine super hard. I have to do some work to actually drop the evap case out of the dash though, the TXV on mine is inside the evap case, and it uses the style with the long temp sensing tube. Not a hard job per se, just annoying having to work under the dash board. I think debris in the lines or system caused my TXV failures, I finally got a pretty good deal on a complete new system through Rockauto for about $230 dollars. Best money I ever spent, new condenser, new TXV, receiver/dryer, compressor, and I already changed the lines and flushed the evaporator.
Ahhh ha! Having the exact same issue with my 96 corolla, we figured it could have been a blockage in the receiver/drier (low side was far too low when it was refusing to work, dad left high side adapter at work, so we couldn't check that) but what confused the hell out of us was that it would sometimes work. He ruled out the expansion valve for the same intermittent operation-reason, but the corolla uses the same style of TX valve as shown in this video, so that's evidence that it's the tx valve imo.
Great job. I recommend replacing drier anytime system is opened. Also break vacuum with nitro rather than with atmosphere. The oils used with R-134a are hygroscopic meaning they have an affinity for moisture. It cannot be removed by vacuum only with desiccant in the drier. If TXV stops feeding the evap then low side will go into a vacuum. You are essentially pumping the system down and stacking liquid up into the condenser. That reduces the surface of the condenser and causes high discharge pressure. Hope that helps you some.
Thank you! I am by no means an AC expert. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with me. Keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny happy to help when and where I can. Been an A/C and refrigeration tech since '02. I don't have a problem with helping others.
Topher8634 i have an 08 vw jetta how does an diyer like me remove the refrigerant to just replace a switch on the compressor
@@donaldharris1134 without a recovery machine nor a vacuum pump the only other method is to place a recovery cylinder in !bucket of ice and connect the hose to it and open valves. Refrigerant migrates to the coldest environment. Of course you will need some manifold guages and a recovery cylinder at the very minimum. This will only remove Refrigerant liquid and will not reduce system pressure to zero. You will want to pull a vacuum before recharging for optimum system performance and longevity. Which switch is it...there is usually a valve core underneath preventing the loss of charge when it is removed. Let me know and I'll research.
@topher8634 thank you sir for taking time to reply its the compressor control solenoid on a 2008 vw jetta 2.5 making the compressor have intermittent cooling
All these videos are good videos, but actually are really simple to diagnose.That really good problems are when pressures are normal ,compressors not cycling On and off and still, you get warm air , those are the the things lot of us have issues .where everything seems normal yet it's not cooling, it's not. Pressures are normal yet not cooling, or why not power to compressor while fuses are good, Those are really simple things.
I had a problem like this years ago and it was the evaporator icing up and the blower motor wasn’t blowing through the evaporator and then it would stop blowing cold. The drain was dripping but was a little clogged which allowed the water to back up and freeze… Cleaned out the drain hole and the problem was solved…
Outstanding presentation, I like your style. 👍🏼👍🏼
Debris inside the expansion valve is from the compressor. Many times it’s the compressor that causes the entire system to fail. When a compressor fails, you usually have to replace everything. Condenser, compressor, lines, etc
Excellent video my car is doing the same thing it's powering down on the engine and the air conditioning isn't what it used to be thanks so much for your help
Did it work? There are so many variables when it comes to AC.
That black in that expansion valve is from a pump. Be it that pump or from another pump, it's a sure sign of a pump failure. Some systems can't be properly flushed because of parallel condensers and they need replaced, so many people just shove a new or rebuilt pump on it and call it good. If that's the case here then the pump will fail prematurely. Probably also why that expansion valve failed, it's corroded up with that black stuff and it's hanging up.
Good
new sub, great vid, when do you ad pag oil, just did a evacuate and recharge but did not think about oil. there were no parts replaced just very low, empty on refrigeran, did hold vacuum for 45minutes and took recharge, thanks again
Vim tools are not bad for the price? Have a Lisle Master Torx set, it's impact rated and great, but the detent for the ball lock isn't machined into the drive side of the sockets, and the sockets just fall off the extensions.
this confirm the same problem I have with my van where the ac tech put water in my system after he vacuum. As a scam to get me to keep returning the particles is more likely rust from the flex plate where as mines show small rust spots.
I have replaced the evop charge the sys still blowing hot air do you think that's valve has to do wit it
Well for using a vacuum during when you fill the refrigerator is a most right ?
Can you spray some WD-40 on this Torx Screws and letting them sit so the WD-40 can penateate some before trying to unloosen them? Or would rhat interfere with the Unit since its not AC oil?
Now I know how to get to my expansion valve on a 2015 altima 3.5L there's no cold air but compressor engage and the low pressure gauge stays low all the time
Good job Kenny, I have a question / What reason for the evaporator freezing up? I really want this answer, Help me, please Kenny. Thanks
Did you replace all the orings when doing the expansion valve, the ones on the lines too or no ?
Did you use anti lock back on those bolts
good video. i have a Subaru Legacy 03, and i have a problem with the AC, it is run good with cold air and sudendly start blowing hot air , i check the compresor is good , the relay is good too, probably i have to replace the valve
So did you replace it. Update
Would be a good idea after recovery to add a slight 2/3 psi of dry nitrogen pressure, if you have gone into vacuum, so that the system doesn’t suck in the humid air when disconnecting lines rather a slight puff out. Make sure you have goggles on you don’t want the oil spat in your eye 👁️
I have similar problems any thoughts I’m on 2019 Hyundai in a minute cold then start blowing hot
i have a 2010 civic and the car ac blows cold when i have it in the garage but when i leave it outside in the sun it only blows air. the clutch kicks on, fans turn on and relays are new. can this be a bad valve as well or the condenser
Mr. Kenny I have a similar problem with my Toyota Corolla 2011 LE. I took it to the mechanic and he told me it was a low pressure from my Compressor. But after whatching your video it made me think it could be the same thing from your video. My problem is when I'm in the highway the airconditioner works fine but when I'm in the city in stop and go traffic the air stops blewing cold every once in while and then starts again once I maintain a steady speed. Would you have any idea what it could be?
I replaced my Snap-on alan tools and replaced them all with Mac Tools R.B.R.T. drivers because of rounding off even on good parts.
Hi buddy.
My chevrolet Sonic just keep cool air for a week then just Hot air get in the cabine, when I check the liquid line is Cold and the suction line is enviroment temperature so, do you think it is a expation valve problem or lack of freon due a some leake? Thanks in advance.
I got a f150 2009 5.4L got everything new the compressor, condenser, fan clutch, evaporation valve literally everything when I’m driving it gets cold but when it comes to an idle or I stop at the light it gets cool not cold any suggestions
Can you imagine you didn't get that torx out?
easy in no such thing , man that's so true .
👍
Is there a reason why the mechanic would leave that flat pin with two holes that looks like the letter Y just laying inside my hood? I just had the evaporator replaced.
Thought the txv receives high pressure gas and changes to a low pressure liquid....heat from evap changes to a low pressure gas...back to the compressor.
I'm facing hot air blowing for few minutes especially in summer. Usually it will cool after I manually reset AC button. Is this is same problem?
I had this exact problem with my system and doing this replacement did not fix the problem. Ended up being a faulty low pressure switch.
Did the new txv have adjuster on the end? When I install them I try to check and adjust the superheat by turning that screw in or out. In gives more superheat and out gives you less.
That was preset. Thanks for watching 🔧
That system was probably wet. They make test kits for the refrigerant. I wonder if the system was opened and it didn't get pulled down sometime in the past.
Anything is possible. This vehicle was sitting apparently with a blown engine for a number of years. Possibly it was disassembled and left sitting with the system open
My mrs Volvo was the same was left open to the elements for 3 years. I put a new condenser and filter dryer on it and it needed 15 hours on the vacuum to get the moisture down below 200 microns. You won’t see the moisture content using those analog gauges you need a digital vacuum gauge and set up in an app to graph the vacuum progress.
Hi brother thanks for your videos I'm a subscriber.
Question please...
I have a 1995 Lexus LS 400.
The radiator fan is not activating.
It does work because i tested it.
I disconnected the connector that's connected to the receiver drier and the radiator fan turns on and stays on continuously the whole time.
But when I reconnect the connector the radiator fan turns off.
I'm trying to fix the fan so that it turns on when I turn on my air conditioner but the fan does not turn on when I turn on the AC.
I feel like it has something to do with that connection but I'm not sure.
Do you think I might have a bad sensor that's connected to the receiver drier?
Thanks.
Anybody knowledgeable please reply soon.
The low side should have gone into a vacuum if the TXV was stuck closed. The high side would go up but should not have pegged out. Usually if the high side goes that high it is a lack of air flow over the condenser, either from a faulty fan or a plugged condenser.. Tip; always use an anti-seize on the TXV bolts.
High side will increase with a failed TXV especially if it is completely closed up. It is essentially a restriction. Liquid stacks up in the condenser and with nowhere to go high discharge is the result. It also depends on where manufacturers put the high side port. If it is in the Liquid line between cond and evap you will not see high pressure. If it is in the hot gas line between comp and cond you will see high pressure. Hope this helps.
Seeing how fouled the inside of that TXV was could that have resulted from using the typical Walmart brand or AutoZone/Advanced Auto recharge bottles that also contain other ingredients such as sealant and other additives....
I have a problem in my bus in the night time is good cool but morning after 8:00 am no cool what is the problem sir...
I'm unfamiliar with the term "Pin." I would assume that the gauge indicator is maxing out and hitting the limit pin. Is this correct?
probably spikes
How do you attach Harbor Freight gauges without damaging the high and low Schrader valves when you screw them down?
full ccw on connecting slowly cw until they open and then stop
Hey Kenny, like a dumb dumb, I power-washed the front lower half of condenser, (UGG, will NEVER DO that again)...anyway, there was a VTEC issue previously and oil all over the passenger side of engine (03 honda accord 4cyl) So, fixed that. And replaced a shredded harmonic balancer and crank seal...getting to my question.
If I damaged the condenser, are there other things I should do as well as a result? Clutch is not locked up, but not engaging either. Hot air flow in cabin. Both fans work. At this point because the system's has high and low sensors on condenser could have ohm'ed out, I have to 'run ac' to keep fans cooling engine bay (hot air) to keep from over heating, which it is not doing but could if I dont turn fans on manually by commanding AC on in cabin.
Again, a new or good used condenser with dryer, is my first step? Either way I will vacuum and recharge. Think I will test the compressor, a destroyed condenser which could have created an arc or killed the ac compressor/clutch. There is pressure in the line. but yet to hook up gauges for an actual read.
Your video is excellent for this, Thank you!!!
And i may open at firewall to peek at expansion valve, before I recharge for any visual contaminants.
Honda's do not like running with out AC system working. Throwing CEL and p0442 (small leak in vacuum actuator)...any other suggestions as to what other part a destroyed condenser may have caused? I really think the compressor does not need replacing, but it is a 2003.
@rinserepeat12877 Usually, the fans won't come on until high side pressure USUALLY reaches a certain point. I would verify what the ambient & coolant temperature actually is, using a scanner. It's possible that you may have buggered the ambient temperature sensor. Keep us posted. More importantly, keep wrenching 🔧
Hey i got a 2011 eclipse and look like there is freeon on the system and my compressor clutch used to engage but it woult turn on and off but when car was at a stop or light clutch wouldnt engage only if i would be driving
About a month ago we got to 85° and clutch wont engage ac comess out hot but still freeon on the system
Found out evaporator or expansion valve are leaking so im about to replace both and the pressure sensor and blow the drain tube, you think that could fix my ac? If it dont work im out of ideas
Ive changed my compresor condensor dryer and low line
And about to do my evaporator expansion valve again pressure sensor and blow the drain tube
All this because my ex crash my car and ac stoped working
Hi ... Kenny I have a 97 4runner and the freon went out and it was blowing warm air so I took it to a mechanic and he recharge it, but it was cold for a couple of days and went warm again so i took it back and the mechanic tested for leak, but it seem to be fine no leak was detected so he determine it must be the ac condenser under the glove box for the 3rd generation 4runners and so he replace the ac condenser and the expansion valve, but now when I turn on the ac it didn't blow many cold air and we trace the coldness of the freon going through the pipes and found out that the freon was only getting to the expansion valve , but will not pass through to the ac condenser so the air was only blowing cool, not cold and every time I turn on the ac the compressor would turn on and off repeatedly just turn on and off on and off after it turns on for a couple of seconds than it would turn off again will you tel me what is wrong with my ac system I needed help, but couldn't find anyone knowledgeable around here and the sshop wants and arm and a leg for them to just look at it. please help me to get my ac running correct again.
Sounds like your system is low on refrigerant. The guy who diagnosed a bad evaporator and replaced it, is responsible to give you a working system.
He needs to put gages on first and see what the pressures look like and go from there. If the expansion valve were bad (not opening up) you would get a very high reading on the high side and a very low one on the low side. There could also be other areas of trouble. You will need to find someone who understands how the AC operates in an automobile. Some people don't even evacuate the system before charging it up which can leave air and moisture in the system causing trouble.
This sound like my overcharge AC on my Lexus RX. I over filled it. And the compressor turn cycle on and off on and off and ac is not getting cold. I empty out a little of overcharged Freon. It work fine now. No more on off on off.
The person that charge your AC either didn’t check the amount Freon put in or he don’t know what he’s doing. If AC Freon is low , AC is blowing cool air instead of cold air and it makes a funny loud noise from the engine when compressor kicks on.
The unit under your glove box is an evaporator not a condenser.
May you please tell me how you knew it was the expansion valve and not the pressure switch. I am having this issue. Thank you.
Were you able to determine the issue? What did you do
Pressure switch usually prevents clutch from pulling in altogether. Sometimes it will be intermittent. If system has verified correct charge (by connecting guages) you can jumper there two pins together and leave fan on high. If you don't evap will freeze. You can also just lightly tap on the switch. That usually will cause a weak switch to show itself.
@@topher8634 amazing!! Thank you!!
😂😂😂😂😂
“I think we have a junk Altima out back…..”
that’s a redundant phrase, u could just say
“I think we got another Altima….”
I realise this is an old video so my comment may not be read ,Here in AUS every time we recharge a system the TX valve as we call it is replaced as a preventive measure Cheers.
It’s commonly referred to as a TXV (thermal expansion valve)in the automotive industry.
TX Valve, TXV, TEV are all common acronyms for the entire HVAC/R industry.
I have a 1993 Chevrolet suburban, 94,000 miles. My A/c compressor started rattling and the A/c stopped cooling. I took it to a repair shop and they replaced the compressor and other A/c components. It lasted 3 days before the compressor started rattling Again, BUT it was still Cooling. I took it back and the shop replaced the A/c compressor and whatever , that repair lasted 4 days before the compressor started rattling again-- still cooling. Took it back , now I’m on my third compressor. It lasted 3 months and it’s RATTLING AGAIN . Looks like I’m taking back again ( 04-20-2023 ) . Regardless WHAT could be the problem. Basically the only time it stopped cooling was with the factory compressor. Thanks
Sounds like there is debris in the system that is ruining the new compressors. Did they flush the components initially? Post this thread to our Facebook page Wrenching with Kenny. It will be more visible to me & other members for follow-up. Thanks for watching
Update please
Sounds like u need to replace the condenser and any valve it have. Probably there are old debris from your broken AC compressor that got into the hose system maybe clogging up the condenser or valves. So keep replacing the AC compressor won’t do any good.
Where are you located? Florida? Haja😊 my Saturn vue 2009 .sometimes it reads engine hot a/c off but after a while its clicks back on cold a/c
Oh! I have replaced the sensor from the engine
I've had bad experiences with aftermarket expansion valves,always use oe
What happened?
@@bekire2215 they either buzz or pressure fluctuate wildly
@@alanearnest6040 i had replaced the expansion valve. still not solved my problem. how did u solve urs?
What about a system that has a high low side pressure and the high side doesn’t budge from 100?? (New ac compressor and sensors)
What make of car and year?
Sounds like bad compressor or compressor control valve.
Any idea what could’ve caused the expansion valve to fail?
Indeed. I hope the debris found in the valve isn't throughout the entire system, waiting to cause another problem.
@@michaelbolton2741it most assuredly is. Especially in the condenser.
What’s the case if it’s blowing cold while driving but not while stopping on traffic signal for example?
Check the fan motor at the engine area, got 2 usually.. One for engine, one for aircond..
Or fan clutch... if you don't have electric fans.
Also inefficient compressor. BTUs change with compressor speed.
Looks like you have a compressor that's on its way out.
Seen that black stuff on other worn out compressors
Will this fix it or you think it will fail again
Reminded me of the Ford black death of the 90s.
ice in the system will do that it causes carbon when its compressed
Interesting??? Went to the dealer last week they said "for some reason it would hit high pressure then push hot air through one side" the wanted 1200.+ for a new compressor. Now I'm wondering 🤔
Refrigerant, not freon
Peg or pegged.
That compressor is slowly dying
Does any one help me find the issue Ac compressor doesn’t turn on .. new Ac compressor new Relay new high pressure switch but compressor doesn’t turn on … but when I put paper clip on the relay compressor turn on ..
It can be your refrigerant pressure sensor, the refrigerant temperature sensor located near the evaporator or the ac control unit itself
Did you fix it. Update
isn't this just a band aid to the real problem? where did all of that gunk come from? It can only come from the compressor, correct.
Looks to me like you have more problems with a contaminated system
I'm pretty sure it had some moisture in it at some point
Need help KENNY
Why are you checking it at idle? Needs to be checked at 1500rpms. Low side around 40 to 45 depending on temp.
The expansion valve may have a nick in the slide where the valve is and it's sticking like a thermostat would.
Low side pressure is the most important factor in cold.
Are you saying that all automotive ac systems are to be tested at 1500 rpm? Also, what would wave nicked the valve?
Could you get a holder for your camera? We want to see the work not narrated!
Hey man who cares if the machine is old run it
Again you won't show the good stuff! You jump around way too much
Also, he guessed at what the problem was. Lots of issues with this approach. What was all that black crap on the inside of the TXV? Might wanna determine that.
How bout the initial charge? Didn't look like you got very much freon out with the recovery machine.
Was the system undercharged? Leaking? Why was there fluorescent dye in there?
These questions and MANY more would need to be answered before chuckin' a new TXV in there.
Another big one..... a/c pressures aren't accurate at idle. You need to raise the rpm's and see what the low side does (like when you're driving). Lots of issues.....
What freon? There is no freon , your delusional 😂