I was a tech before these newer compressors (80's) and had to learn about them after my Hyundai Tuscon had a cooling issue with high low side pressures. I chased it until I found these type of vids. Replaced the valve and it brought the pressure back to normal and cooling was back to normal 46 degrees after being stuck at 60 prior. Thanks to you for doing these!!!! Saved me a ton of money doing it all myself.
sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know a way to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid forgot my password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.
As an Auto technician of 35+ yrs experience, i came through from the old R12 days in autos to the newer R134a systems and then the Control valve systems (common in 98' on Commodores in Australia) So I learnt these faults by actual diagnosis (the car dealers would replace compressors for this valve fault!) Great to see your top notch diagnostics at work. Blocked cabin filters also reduce cooling effectiveness. Cheers from Aus 👍🍻
Another visual check is to see how clean the condenser is. I just did one that was almost completely plugged with bugs dirt dust cotton etc. I actually pulled the radiator out (didn't want to crack the AC unless absolutely necessary) so I could thoroughly clean all fins on both. Starting pressure 30/270 @80°. When cleaning was done it was 37/175@ 77° blowing a nice 42° in the cabin now. If I hadn't thought to check and clean it, I would have done a orifice, dryer, and flush, and I doubt it would have fixed anything.
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@@matthewstorm5188I don’t know anywhere enough about this stuff but I have the nose off the front of my Jeep and that thing looks like it lost a really bad rock fight!
Great video. Thanks "mekuloco" for that regulator valve function description on the low side and the reason why the expansion valve should not be suspected as being faulty.
I'm impressed by your clean shop. I can't stand a dirty, greasy auto shop as most of them are. Great video! I'm a commercial HVAC tech and this exact problem on my 2015 Altima had me scratching my head. I evacuated the system and put a measured charge back in and no change. My gauge readings are exactly the same as yours! Thanks!
The car provided a perfect case for your video. You provided the perfect explanation and repair and I learned about a control valve in the compressor. Nice job.
Thanks Brian. Your reasoning behind the troubleshooting process is impeccable. I appreciate your thorough feedback on what you're looking at, it really helps people viewing your videos.
Thanks for the accurate assessment determining TXV and control valve. My 2014 Corolla A/C has cold air when driving then at a stop it turns to hot air 10-15 minutes later cold again, do you think this is the control valve on the compressor causing the problem?
That makes a lot of sense. I can picture it in my head now. Very interesting and effective diagnosis method The compressor's inability to "pump" refrigerant from the suction side causes a backup that increases the pressure, and impedes the condenser from releasing the heat; High suction pressure, poor cooling, voila! Brilliant, live and learn!
Amazing!!! I was just about to fork out $1200, $1500 to get my wife’s 2014 Altima AC fixed. it’s experiencing the same diagnostic issue in this video and I have no doubt it is the refrigerator control valve which I will be fixing. Thank you so much for this video. Thank God for RUclips. I have become my own mechanic because of you. 😁I just replaced by spark pugs and a spark pug terminal made possible by watching RUclips videos. 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
@@ricardooconnor2362 I have one on the way. Perhaps I'll check back in after I install and let you know how it goes. It would be nice if maybe you can do the same! Thanks.
This was very educational. I have a 2013 Peterbuilt a/c works great while I'm driving but at idle it warms up and doesn't cool. I've done a lot of research and watching these videos, I am convinced it needs to go in the shop. Ty
Best explanation of how to read the gauges! I've replaced the compressor, condenser and expansion valve on a 2003 Lexus sc430. The ac works great at or above 1000 rpm otherwise the compressor shuts off. Any ideas why?
I had a ford escort that the dealer wanted to charge me 1300 dollars to fix. I said no and took the car home. The dealer said i needed a whole new ac system. I started troubleshooting the problem myself and all i needed was a cycling pressure switch for 18 dollars from Napa. I fixed myself and i was happy as hell.
wolf2351 you can’t trust mechanics anymore, the world is so fucked anymore and you can’t trust or believe anyone. I told my Dad his mechanic was robbing him. For years I kept telling him, but he was like naaaa, he wouldn’t do that he’s a good guy, bla bla bla. Then he went to get a noise looked at and they said he had to replace his axles and power steering pump, 1200.00. But eventually dad found out when he noticed his power steering pump wasn’t changed and I got to say I told ya so. I’m sure he didn’t need, or get new axles either. Fix it yourself people, it’s not hard unless you lack time like a lot of us. Nobody wants to spend your day off working on a car, but it’s better than giving a mechanic a whole paycheck to fix something simple.
I don't believe that for 1 second.. The cycling switch is the very first thing to check after verifying that it has Freon. Did you ask for an explanation of what exactly they found. Please post technicians comments on repair order
13:30 I'm glad you made this distinction clear. the electronic valves like this one are lesser known and studied by most. also doesn't the valve close when it's off and sensing no heat? like a mechanical valve it would close when powers off so why do the pressures equalize?
Nice! Work… please mention to always check the cabin air filter and evaporator general condition for foreign materials! That shall be a line item on the troubleshooting process!
Wow, exactly the thing I'm looking for! I suppose this is my issue now, when at idle the cooling is not as good as when I rev the engine. But when I rev the engine, the pressure on the low side is at 50, 52 which is way too high, while on the high side is at 200, 210. (mine is BMW E90)
Great video! For me that greatest pain is to get the valve out of the compressor. I am using my hand to get it out but its not coming out. I don't want to use pliers and more force since I have seen on other videos that they use pliers and they break where the connector plugs in. If it breaks, the rest of the valve will be stuck inside the compressor and YOU will have to remove the compressor and if you cant get the valve out you have to problems. I don't want use any w40 or other stuff since I don't know if the AC will get contaminated. I will keep trying to see if it comes out, wish me luck.
Great video. I have the exact same car with the exact same issue, exact same manifold gauge readings (high side normal low side too high) and exact same temp blowing out the vents, lol. I wish I saw this video before I replaced the TXV, the condenser, flushed out the evap, checked both cooling fan operation etc. I did everything but replace the compressor and control valve. Most people just look for a click out of the compressor and think it's not the issue. This shows that even if the compressor clicks on, it could still be at fault (Compressor control valve in this case)
I have the same issue and same readings on the same car as well. Did you figure out what ultimately fixed your vehicle? I've already replaced this valve, but I still have the same problem. I'm thinking since he ended up changing the whole compressor, that maybe it was a bad compressor to begin with. Did you end up having to change yours? Or just the things you mentioned? Thanks!!
Dylan Parker I changed the expansion valve first but that didn’t solve the issue. I replaced the condenser as well but still the same. Only after replacing this valve, the reading improved and the air was ice cold
@@jameslouis4309 Thank you for the reply! I still feel like this is my issue. But I don't know how to test the replacement control valve I bought on eBay. Maybe my replacement doesn't work either..
Dylan Parker I agree. I couldn’t test the old one either. Usually you can hit it with 12v and hear a click but not with these. I just installed the new one and hoped for the best and thankfully, that was it.
Holy crap , this video might actually be the one to save me from going insane! My pressures are 70/145 with 95 ambient temp. I’m going to replace that valve asap. Thank you!
Id rather change the compressor in the beginning. trying to troubleshoot an A/C system can get expensive if you cant recover the refrigerant yourself. 3 to 4 trips to the shop to recover freon after a failed attempt is outta control. Im dealing with this now. I suspect the valve is my issue but those same readings could be a bad compressor.
@@The_sTress I've been told that it's most likely too much pag oil in the system. I'm going to replace the accumulator with a new one to get rid of the oil that's stored in the old one. Fingers crossed.
2000 Jeep Cherokee... Will not Take Freon... Compressor worked great in the other jeep 96 cherokee country both 4.o but i had to change out the backs because they were in different positions. 96 back of 2000 top of comp. I had it vac. and put ruffly 4 oz oil that it took no problem. wont take freon. i know its pumping for sure because i took off the low side sensor held down the valve with the clutched manually kicked in with trying to put freon in it and it blew off one of the lines going into the condencer. So ya its building up pressure but not sure on the suction part. as far as the power/fuses etc. I start the car turn on A/C controls, Hi/max, with a test light i have pwer on both wires coming from the compressor . the ground on the comp. shows to be hot too. Both incerts show hot on the low pressure switch /cycling switch unless i unhook the high side switch. then one side hot no light on the other insert.Then i try to bridge it over and it still dont kick the clutch in. If i try that with it showing 2 hots it blows the big 20 amp fuse. Same if i try to bridge it over from the ac relay on the fuse box. the fan shows 2 hot coming out of the switch going to the fan but 1 hot 1 ground going in the plug. When I unplug the ac compressor i still have power on the compressor end/plug and both wires but no power on the plug wire coming from the wiring harness. Even with everything unhooked. low side high side fan and ac compressor i still have power on the compressor. both wires... Only time the wire from the harness has powe is when i plug in the ac. Is that right?? My low pressure switch 4 ports has power on 3 out of 4 ports/slots. Car running ac controls on, if i unplug my low side sensor i then have a hot and ground on the high side switch instead of 2 hots but low side switch has 3 hot 1 neg. unplugged... i did test the wire thats going into that port and it has power going in the switch but no power in the port of the switch. If i hook the high side back up, again i got 2 hot ports on the low pressure switch. Even when i have 1 hot side other neg with the high side unplugged = it still wont cycle the clutch but it dont blow the fuse then. Do i have a ground somewhere maybe causing it not to let it take freon??? P need help caus i cant afford to take it to a shop...
Well, here it is two years after you posted this video and my wife's 2015 Nissan Altima is doing exactly what is happening in this video with very similar readings. I'm doing this job now however, (like you said) a bit hard to find the replacement part. I think NAPA may have it. Lots of people have complained about AC compressor failure's on these Nissans. I'm guessing its this little part like in your video that may be at fault however, Dealerships and repair shops just see an opportunity to swap out entire systems and make a little more off folks. I find it a little odd that this fails and the car is only 5 years old with about 60k miles meanwhile, we have a 12 year old Hyundai Entourage with just under 200k miles and it's AC system is still original and going strong. Anyways, thanks for the video. Edit follow up 8/5/2020: It was the control valve for our 2015 Nissan Altima SV. NAPA did not have the part like I thought. AutoZone said they could order one for about 85-90 dollars, (part number MT3452 ) from Santech. This part only fits 2013 through 2017 2.5L Altima SV & SL models only. I found one on ebay by typing in the part number for 26.00 dollars and free shipping. Took a chance and it seems to be working for now. Not sure how long it will last as the part is made in China. If it get us through the remainder of the summer I'll be happy as it's better than replacing the whole compressor. Good luck to anyone dealing with this.
@@MigDw311 Yeah, it was that little part like in the video. AutoZone has the part you can order for like 80-100 dollars. I found one on ebay for cheaper and its working good now. If you're having this issue too I wish you much luck. This video save me a good chunk of money. I didnt even have to remove the compressor from the car. Was able to access it from under the car. If you need the part it's: part number MT3452 from Santech. This part only fits 2013 through 2017 2.5L Altima SV & SL models only.
this is s great video, very comprehensive and well explained. I have a question: would all this apply to a semi truck's AC which is not cold when idling. thank you.
Thank you ,for all these precious infoes, I have an Avalon 2013 that I took to the dealer they did not know the problem they said the system is clogged somewhere,,,ha ha ha like the sewer ???? I am away from home now but I am pretty sure it is the pressure control valve.thank you again
I have been doing a/c work in mojave desert over 45 years, and you are very correct and a great a c tech. Keep current and trained and you will have a great career and profits. Thanks I couldn't have explained it better. THE sweet spot on low a c pressure I usually explain to them a low side preferred pressure range around 25 to 45 p s i. Running.
The solenoids for the AC compressors are widely available online... often the auto mechanists etc would ‘recommend’ complete replacement of New compressor. It’s easier job and higher value, esp service Dept that has profit objective to attain.
Had to get one shipped from the US, overseas. Can't find them anywhere where i am, except pulled out of an old and likely seriously abused junkyard AC compressor.
When you turn off compressor and you measure temp on suction line and temp is going up quickly it tells you valves are leaking high temp high pressure gas back through valves on a residential system. Would it be same for this? Thanks great video!
NOTE This fix worked on my 2014 Altima but you do NOT need to remove the ac to replace the RCV solenoid. It is clearly accessible from under the car I just put the altima on mini ramps and its right there. Got the part form ebay for $40. Thanks for your helpful video
I have a 2010 Fusion sport with a similar problem. Insufficient A/C when it's 30+ degrees C outside and the engine is at idle. As far as I know, the system is fully charged. I'll ask Ford to check this. Thanks for a great video!
That’s exactly whats happening to my 2013 FORD EXPLORER. I wish you were in phoenix arizona lol i would take it to you. You know what youre doing. I took it to a mechanic and he just charged me to vacuum the system and recharge it and its still not that cold.
Just an fyi. I've replaced the refrigerant control valve w/o removing the compressor and that fixed it! It took me about 1.5 hrs to replaces it though (mainly because it was a pain to remove the retention ring due to limit space) but it worked.
had a Saturn Vue 2007 run cold down the interstate but hot sitting in traffic. replaced the scroll valve pulled a vaccum and refill the unit and it's still cooling after three years.
I have identical problem with my Acura TSX 2005. When I turn off the engine pressures equalize about in 5 minutes. Also I can rotate the A/C clutch with my finger. Is it related to weak compressor, or TXV? Thanks for the detailed and methodical explanation...
I have a similar issue on my 2006 Accord. I get SOME cooling, though. However, the low side pressure goes down to normal when I give the engine some RPM’s. And this compressor does NOT have a refrigerant control valve. Worn compressor, perhaps?
Hi, My car's ac cools great, low pressure is 30-50 psi. High pressure is 200-250 psi. Ambient is 85F with humidity less than 15%. The only thing that is bothering me is that the compressor is running very hot to touch. I replaced the evaporater and txv recently due to leakage. What do recommend to look out for? Thanks
I have a 2015 Nissan SV it is doing the pressures are identical to the ones on this video I found a place here in Texas that sells the refrigerant control valve do you recommend me pulling the compressor or can I replace it in place if I put it on jack stands and will I lose any oil
I have a 04 nissan armada 5.6. Past 4 years every single year I have taken the truck to get ac freeon refills. Till this date every time I'm at idle or stopped at red light I get hot dry air on the ac. Only on highway I get somewhat fresh but not cold how it suppose to be. Can I get some help.
my dealer told me I needed a new compressor, but I found the a/c compressor control valve online for $16.99. Very easy change out on Nissan Altima's and Sentra's.
VERY NICE WELL DONE VIDEO! I have rebuilt 3 or 4 automotive AC systems. One of them had a plugged orifice . Have retrofitted r12 over to r134a. With excellent results. Leaks are a problem. If you have a leak in a retrofitted r12 system the leak will be worse,with r134a because of the molecular structure of the refrigerant r134a.
Do you have a video for poor cooling at idle for systems like my 2009 Ford Fusion that don't have refrigerant control valves. I'm getting ready to begin a diagnosis on it. It has a new condenser, compressor, and TXV, so I'm suspecting a cooling fan issue, even though it didn't cool well doing 55mph yesterday with ambient temp of 95F. Note: the fan does kick on when ac is turned on inside the car.
Nice of Nissan to make getting to the a/c pressure control valve so easily. lol. I have been noticing a/c failure in many different types of 'newer' cars less than 5 years old compared to older vehicles.
I noted you changed the thermometer location from lateral to central vent for the post-repair reading. Also, tossing around acronyms such as TSX/FOT makes sense to you but for some viewers might be confusing to the point they stop watching because the terminology is too specific for someone without the benefit of your knowledge base. Of course in my stating this I presume your intention is to share your knowledge.
You need a big shop fan to cool yourself and blow the exhaust fumes out if you don't have one. Thanks for the gauge reading and pressure read out determination. Plus other info... I have heard the low side line should get cold with the engine and ac cool on.
I asked a workshop nearby to diagnose my AC system because it was weak at Idle but they said all they can do is refill system first and then diagnose. Refill didn't do anything and then they said it is going to be very expensive to repair because AC system does not give any fault codes so they recommend to have AC flush and then replace nearly every AC component. Then i came to RUclips learning some AC diagnostics myself and it turned out that i had only faulty solenoid valve.
Thanks for the great video. Had similar performance and pressure readings but only replaced the valve not the whole compressor. Unfortunately, my results remained the same. Can there be a faulty current to the valve and is there any way to check on that?
Hello, thank you for making this video it gave me some ideas on where to start diagnostics aspects. I have 2012 Altima and my AC issue is that on a typical hot day when I first turn it on it blows hot air for quite some time until finally turns on. I usually have to mess with the AC on off button which I’m sure not good for clutch plate but it does helps. Also when is on it’s not blowing a lot of cool air like it should be and in AZ heat it’s pain in the butt. I do not have any leaks since my father check it every summer. Could you kindly tell me what could be wrong with this AC system?
Thank you for the great video. My car AC system very similar to your case except when the engine is off. It reads 105 at low side and 58 at high side. It does not go equilibrium. Possible clogged at somewhere? I removed desiccant bag that is very dark color. Would it be the cause? When engine running and AC on, low side 48, high side 98, similar to your reading, also knocking noise. Could it be electronic control valve? Thanks in advance.
What if the compressor clutch isn’t coming on? But the ipdm test works and clutch engages 5 times. But I checked all wiring and I have power to everything. Will pressure control valve be the issue if ac button is on and doesn’t engage the clutch? Or added to much Freon be the problem?
THAT'S WHERE THE NOISE & FOG CAME FROM, HUH? '04 E-350 5.4 pulled my compressor to replace hose also replaced dryer & o-rings. I spilled about an ounce of oil but did not see anymore in the comp. I added about 5 oz. to the comp. & 4 oz. to the new dryer / receiver. My AC & refrigeration guy came by from work sucked it down but did NOT have his high side gauge. The Van with rear air take 40 oz. R134a when we got her almost full & there was a couple thuds & a silver fog. AC is 60 degrees at idle & will get down to 44 degrees while moving. I'm 61 & not alot of $$$ but is it time for a auto ac guy? Thanks!
Does a/c clutch go on and off when the a/c is on and the car is working on idle in park gear on 2010 nissan altima or the clutch is engaged as long as the a/c is on?
Need a video on a car surging at idle with the ac on blows out cold prior to idling at a stop light stop the car at any given stop light car starts surging idle rpm going up a little bit then back down every few seconds sounding like is is reving up then ac quicts blowing cold starts blowing luke warm air. Already had a mechanic r134a still having the same issue. And belt queaks when accelerating with the ac on.
Control valves are all over the place online. Unfortunately, the 4 c Nissan Altima does not use this valve. Did you give your customer the option of just changing out the control valve?
Where does the power come from feeding the control solenoid? Is it controlled by the ECM or what and could it be a problem rather then solenoid failure?
On my 2000 sable dohc, a few years ago, the low pressure side cut-off switch went bad, so I recovered old freon, swapped the bad switch, the orifice, and any o-rings I could reach. Refilled with a little dye, little PAG-40, and filled freon using manifold gauges, using the hood sticker as a reference. Still works great! Question: just got a chevy van (2000, 53k) with rear AC system. It works, but is there any benefit to changing the orifice, old freon, and/or anything else? Does the freon or oil break down over time?
Hello. My mechanic just vacuumed and charged the a/c on my 2010 altima. It cools good. However my clutch does not stop turning as long as my a/c is on. It stops when I turn off the a/c. When I tested this, the temperature setting was on 50%, just at the middle, and it was evening so not too hot weather. I waited around 5-10 minutes and the clutch did not stop turning. It was cold in the car but not very cold. When I turned the temperature switch to max, the air from the vents went colder. So the a/c temperature control system (probably some kind of thermostat) works properly. The only problem is that the clutch does not stop turning which increases the a/c gas pressure too much so it leaks out of the system. What’s the problem? How to fix?
How do you tell if the problem is the compressor or the valve? What would be different in the gauge readings?
5 лет назад
Dude, such a nice job I had to subscribe & add you to SMA, ScannerDanner, NGK and all the other superb mechanic-technician-magicians posting awesome training vids here. Thank you from another ChiTown boy. edit: with plenty of my own air-con fixes just-a-waitn.
I've got a 95 GMC K1500 with 107k miles. Had to replace the AC lines due to the charge port leaking and I replaced the AC condenser. The AC compressor was replaced around 68k miles. The compressor is running without kicking on and off. The AC system has been filled to 32 ounces. While driving the air is fairly cold, but at idle it isn't cold compared to what it used to be. Prior to replacing the lines and condenser the AC was very cold whether driving or idle. What could be the issue?
For anyone who is testing their A/C system by putting a thermometer in your vents always be sure you put it in the central vents above your radio. The vents to either side of the vehicle are extensions from the center air distribution box which is located behind the radio area in the dash. In the center vents it will be cooler than the others.
Unfortunately on the Sentra model the valve is on the side and facing the front of the car. You can unplug it but it's impossible to grab the snap ring. You have to remove the compressor, remove the ring, replace the valve. Kimda sucks
I have a slow freon leak on my front ac condenser. My ac works up front ok and I just notice my rear ac is only blowing outside temp air. Will the leak up front on the condenser affect the rear ac or does the rear ac have its own freon that it relies on. Thanks for any help I have a new front ac on the way. 2002 Tahoe
With the compressor clutch spinning and him looking at the guage readings..... they would be identical. When he was looking at it even with a fully charged system the low side was like 56 and the high side was over 120. With a bad compressor the readings would be the same. Example 90 on low and 90 on high. Hope this helps. But those readings can only be valid if ur clutch is spinning
@@jasonc.4683 Not exactly true,, A weak or really worn out compressor will have a high low side pressures and low high side pressures,, If the valve were sticking open then the pressures would be equal.
Can you help me with bad compressor or is it bad valve !?? Like you explained in terma of reading!? Do you mean the gauges would look like the one in video? For bad compressor aswell!??
@@justingeraldi2304 it's Nissan Maxima 2013 i dont get cooling while idle but upon rev i do, proper frean we don't have such automated machines over here in garages . The mechanic says its weak compressor but it's the same compressor which i changed & worked well 2 3 daysc& than it became like this ! What would you suggest
Is A/C control valve the same as pressure relief valve? The factory service manual for my nissan versa doesn't mention any a/c control valve only pressure relief valve and expansion valve. Do all auto A/C's have control valves? I can't find it mentioned anywhere in the FSM. Thanks!
Only variable displacement compressors have control valves. Though, both can spring leaks (just had a relief valve replaced on my Delphi CVC because its oring was leaking, but the actual control valve is still fine).
Great video, but what does it mean if the fan is running crazy high when the ac is on? I mean, if you are standing outside the car you can really hear like it is going to take off. What is up with that?
spot on nice to see an honest man doing a first class job greeting from a welshman working in london.
I was a tech before these newer compressors (80's) and had to learn about them after my Hyundai Tuscon had a cooling issue with high low side pressures. I chased it until I found these type of vids. Replaced the valve and it brought the pressure back to normal and cooling was back to normal 46 degrees after being stuck at 60 prior. Thanks to you for doing these!!!! Saved me a ton of money doing it all myself.
Brian came a long way and really knows his trade! I’m Very Proud of His Accomplishments. Your Old Neighbor in OL.
sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know a way to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid forgot my password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.
@@ezragavin2522 Putz
As an Auto technician of 35+ yrs experience, i came through from the old R12 days in autos to the newer R134a systems and then the Control valve systems (common in 98' on Commodores in Australia) So I learnt these faults by actual diagnosis (the car dealers would replace compressors for this valve fault!)
Great to see your top notch diagnostics at work. Blocked cabin filters also reduce cooling effectiveness. Cheers from Aus 👍🍻
Awesome guy!! I have learned more from you in these 16 minutes than I have learned all my life about air conditioning. Keep up the great work!!
Another visual check is to see how clean the condenser is. I just did one that was almost completely plugged with bugs dirt dust cotton etc. I actually pulled the radiator out (didn't want to crack the AC unless absolutely necessary) so I could thoroughly clean all fins on both. Starting pressure 30/270 @80°. When cleaning was done it was 37/175@ 77° blowing a nice 42° in the cabin now. If I hadn't thought to check and clean it, I would have done a orifice, dryer, and flush, and I doubt it would have fixed anything.
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@@nickynuts8013 yes could you translate that please lol 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Sometimes, it is best to just replace the condenser. This is particularly true on old cars, where half the fins may be bent and blocked.
@@matthewstorm5188I don’t know anywhere enough about this stuff but I have the nose off the front of my Jeep and that thing looks like it lost a really bad rock fight!
Great video. Thanks "mekuloco" for that regulator valve function description on the low side and the reason why the expansion valve should not be suspected as being faulty.
I'm impressed by your clean shop. I can't stand a dirty, greasy auto shop as most of them are. Great video! I'm a commercial HVAC tech and this exact problem on my 2015 Altima had me scratching my head. I evacuated the system and put a measured charge back in and no change. My gauge readings are exactly the same as yours! Thanks!
Was your Altima the S or no. I’m having the same problem but I have a 2015 Altima S with 2.5L but it don’t have that control valve on it
Excellent presentation! Kept wanting to skip ahead but couldn't because every word was worth listening to. Cheers!
Love this guy he is such a honest mechanic.
The car provided a perfect case for your video. You provided the perfect explanation and repair and I learned about a control valve in the compressor. Nice job.
Thanks Brian. Your reasoning behind the troubleshooting process is impeccable. I appreciate your thorough feedback on what you're looking at, it really helps people viewing your videos.
Thanks for the accurate assessment determining TXV and control valve. My 2014 Corolla A/C has cold air when driving then at a stop it turns to hot air 10-15 minutes later cold again, do you think this is the control valve on the compressor causing the problem?
That makes a lot of sense. I can picture it in my head now. Very interesting and effective diagnosis method The compressor's inability to "pump" refrigerant from the suction side causes a backup that increases the pressure, and impedes the condenser from releasing the heat; High suction pressure, poor cooling, voila! Brilliant, live and learn!
Amazing!!! I was just about to fork out $1200, $1500 to get my wife’s 2014 Altima AC fixed. it’s experiencing the same diagnostic issue in this video and I have no doubt it is the refrigerator control valve which I will be fixing. Thank you so much for this video. Thank God for RUclips. I have become my own mechanic because of you. 😁I just replaced by spark pugs and a spark pug terminal made possible by watching RUclips videos. 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Did the valve work for you?
@@phillippardo5712 i just had it delivered and need time to install it.
@@ricardooconnor2362 I have one on the way. Perhaps I'll check back in after I install and let you know how it goes. It would be nice if maybe you can do the same! Thanks.
This was very educational. I have a 2013 Peterbuilt a/c works great while I'm driving but at idle it warms up and doesn't cool. I've done a lot of research and watching these videos, I am convinced it needs to go in the shop. Ty
ac compressor clutch not working all Elantra ac not cooling
Which company making Hyundai in Korea pls slove ac proplem SPL on Elantra
Best explanation of how to read the gauges! I've replaced the compressor, condenser and expansion valve on a 2003 Lexus sc430. The ac works great at or above 1000 rpm otherwise the compressor shuts off. Any ideas why?
Excellent video have not seen any one else explain the refrigerant control valve .Thanks
I just replaced my compressor myself because i had the same problem. It definitely fixed my problem.
I had a ford escort that the dealer wanted to charge me 1300 dollars to fix. I said no and took the car home. The dealer said i needed a whole new ac system. I started troubleshooting the problem myself and all i needed was a cycling pressure switch for 18 dollars from Napa. I fixed myself and i was happy as hell.
wolf2351 you can’t trust mechanics anymore, the world is so fucked anymore and you can’t trust or believe anyone. I told my Dad his mechanic was robbing him. For years I kept telling him, but he was like naaaa, he wouldn’t do that he’s a good guy, bla bla bla. Then he went to get a noise looked at and they said he had to replace his axles and power steering pump, 1200.00. But eventually dad found out when he noticed his power steering pump wasn’t changed and I got to say I told ya so. I’m sure he didn’t need, or get new axles either. Fix it yourself people, it’s not hard unless you lack time like a lot of us. Nobody wants to spend your day off working on a car, but it’s better than giving a mechanic a whole paycheck to fix something simple.
My dad used to tell ME the mechanic thing you need patience.
Never trust the stealership I mean dealership, always get 2nd opinion
I don't believe that for 1 second..
The cycling switch is the very first thing to check after verifying that it has Freon.
Did you ask for an explanation of what exactly they found.
Please post technicians comments on repair order
Nice
Thank you so much for posted compressor electronic valve problem
Great info in this video! Thanks man, you clearly are way more clued up that the average AC tech.
WOW! Finally we're shown the way it's done! Liked, subscribed & activated notifications. Godspeed!
David G. Washington State
13:30 I'm glad you made this distinction clear. the electronic valves like this one are lesser known and studied by most.
also doesn't the valve close when it's off and sensing no heat? like a mechanical valve it would close when powers off so why do the pressures equalize?
Excellent, worthwhile, well done technical video! Very educational and enjoyable to watch.
Nice! Work… please mention to always check the cabin air filter and evaporator general condition for foreign materials! That shall be a line item on the troubleshooting process!
Wow, exactly the thing I'm looking for! I suppose this is my issue now, when at idle the cooling is not as good as when I rev the engine. But when I rev the engine, the pressure on the low side is at 50, 52 which is way too high, while on the high side is at 200, 210. (mine is BMW E90)
Great video! For me that greatest pain is to get the valve out of the compressor. I am using my hand to get it out but its not coming out. I don't want to use pliers and more force since I have seen on other videos that they use pliers and they break where the connector plugs in. If it breaks, the rest of the valve will be stuck inside the compressor and YOU will have to remove the compressor and if you cant get the valve out you have to problems. I don't want use any w40 or other stuff since I don't know if the AC will get contaminated. I will keep trying to see if it comes out, wish me luck.
I learn so much from RUclips videos like this. My wife calls me a RUclips Master Mechanic LOL
Great video. I have the exact same car with the exact same issue, exact same manifold gauge readings (high side normal low side too high) and exact same temp blowing out the vents, lol. I wish I saw this video before I replaced the TXV, the condenser, flushed out the evap, checked both cooling fan operation etc. I did everything but replace the compressor and control valve. Most people just look for a click out of the compressor and think it's not the issue. This shows that even if the compressor clicks on, it could still be at fault (Compressor control valve in this case)
I have the same issue and same readings on the same car as well. Did you figure out what ultimately fixed your vehicle? I've already replaced this valve, but I still have the same problem. I'm thinking since he ended up changing the whole compressor, that maybe it was a bad compressor to begin with. Did you end up having to change yours? Or just the things you mentioned? Thanks!!
Dylan Parker I changed the expansion valve first but that didn’t solve the issue. I replaced the condenser as well but still the same. Only after replacing this valve, the reading improved and the air was ice cold
@@jameslouis4309 Thank you for the reply! I still feel like this is my issue. But I don't know how to test the replacement control valve I bought on eBay. Maybe my replacement doesn't work either..
Dylan Parker I agree. I couldn’t test the old one either. Usually you can hit it with 12v and hear a click but not with these. I just installed the new one and hoped for the best and thankfully, that was it.
@@MrParker5 weak compressor most likely
Holy crap , this video might actually be the one to save me from going insane! My pressures are 70/145 with 95 ambient temp. I’m going to replace that valve asap. Thank you!
How did it go?
Yo. How'd your ac work out?
I actually had to replace my faulty compressor and pretty much start from scratch.
Id rather change the compressor in the beginning. trying to troubleshoot an A/C system can get expensive if you cant recover the refrigerant yourself. 3 to 4 trips to the shop to recover freon after a failed attempt is outta control. Im dealing with this now. I suspect the valve is my issue but those same readings could be a bad compressor.
@@The_sTress I've been told that it's most likely too much pag oil in the system.
I'm going to replace the accumulator with a new one to get rid of the oil that's stored in the old one. Fingers crossed.
Do you have any videos on AC clutches going bad and what the effects are? Excellent content and its much appreciated.
2000 Jeep Cherokee... Will not Take Freon... Compressor worked great in the other jeep 96 cherokee country both 4.o but i had to change out the backs because they were in different positions. 96 back of 2000 top of comp. I had it vac. and put ruffly 4 oz oil that it took no problem. wont take freon. i know its pumping for sure because i took off the low side sensor held down the valve with the clutched manually kicked in with trying to put freon in it and it blew off one of the lines going into the condencer. So ya its building up pressure but not sure on the suction part. as far as the power/fuses etc. I start the car turn on A/C controls, Hi/max, with a test light i have pwer on both wires coming from the compressor . the ground on the comp. shows to be hot too. Both incerts show hot on the low pressure switch /cycling switch unless i unhook the high side switch. then one side hot no light on the other insert.Then i try to bridge it over and it still dont kick the clutch in. If i try that with it showing 2 hots it blows the big 20 amp fuse. Same if i try to bridge it over from the ac relay on the fuse box. the fan shows 2 hot coming out of the switch going to the fan but 1 hot 1 ground going in the plug. When I unplug the ac compressor i still have power on the compressor end/plug and both wires but no power on the plug wire coming from the wiring harness. Even with everything unhooked. low side high side fan and ac compressor i still have power on the compressor. both wires... Only time the wire from the harness has powe is when i plug in the ac. Is that right?? My low pressure switch 4 ports has power on 3 out of 4 ports/slots. Car running ac controls on, if i unplug my low side sensor i then have a hot and ground on the high side switch instead of 2 hots but low side switch has 3 hot 1 neg. unplugged... i did test the wire thats going into that port and it has power going in the switch but no power in the port of the switch. If i hook the high side back up, again i got 2 hot ports on the low pressure switch. Even when i have 1 hot side other neg with the high side unplugged = it still wont cycle the clutch but it dont blow the fuse then. Do i have a ground somewhere maybe causing it not to let it take freon??? P need help caus i cant afford to take it to a shop...
Did you figure that out?
Well, here it is two years after you posted this video and my wife's 2015 Nissan Altima is doing exactly what is happening in this video with very similar readings. I'm doing this job now however, (like you said) a bit hard to find the replacement part. I think NAPA may have it. Lots of people have complained about AC compressor failure's on these Nissans. I'm guessing its this little part like in your video that may be at fault however, Dealerships and repair shops just see an opportunity to swap out entire systems and make a little more off folks. I find it a little odd that this fails and the car is only 5 years old with about 60k miles meanwhile, we have a 12 year old Hyundai Entourage with just under 200k miles and it's AC system is still original and going strong. Anyways, thanks for the video.
Edit follow up 8/5/2020: It was the control valve for our 2015 Nissan Altima SV. NAPA did not have the part like I thought. AutoZone said they could order one for about 85-90 dollars, (part number MT3452 ) from Santech. This part only fits 2013 through 2017 2.5L Altima SV & SL models only. I found one on ebay by typing in the part number for 26.00 dollars and free shipping. Took a chance and it seems to be working for now. Not sure how long it will last as the part is made in China. If it get us through the remainder of the summer I'll be happy as it's better than replacing the whole compressor. Good luck to anyone dealing with this.
Any updates?
@@MigDw311 Yeah, it was that little part like in the video. AutoZone has the part you can order for like 80-100 dollars. I found one on ebay for cheaper and its working good now. If you're having this issue too I wish you much luck. This video save me a good chunk of money. I didnt even have to remove the compressor from the car. Was able to access it from under the car. If you need the part it's: part number MT3452 from Santech. This part only fits 2013 through 2017 2.5L Altima SV & SL models only.
this is s great video, very comprehensive and well explained. I have a question: would all this apply to a semi truck's AC which is not cold when idling. thank you.
Thank you ,for all these precious infoes, I have an Avalon 2013 that I took to the dealer they did not know the problem they said the system is clogged somewhere,,,ha ha ha like the sewer ????
I am away from home now but I am pretty sure it is the pressure control valve.thank you again
I'm pretty sure if it's clogged issue the high pressure reading side is much higher than normal.
I have been doing a/c work in mojave desert over 45 years, and you are very correct and a great a c tech.
Keep current and trained and you will have a great career and profits. Thanks
I couldn't have explained it better. THE sweet spot on low a c pressure I usually explain to them a low side preferred pressure range around 25 to 45 p s i. Running.
HIgh Desert?
The solenoids for the AC compressors are widely available online...
often the auto mechanists etc would ‘recommend’ complete replacement of New compressor.
It’s easier job and higher value, esp service Dept that has profit objective to attain.
Had to get one shipped from the US, overseas. Can't find them anywhere where i am, except pulled out of an old and likely seriously abused junkyard AC compressor.
When you turn off compressor and you measure temp on suction line and temp is going up quickly it tells you valves are leaking high temp high pressure gas back through valves on a residential system. Would it be same for this? Thanks great video!
Ultra informative and well put together!
Because I have learned a lot from guys like this on RUclips I did an AC on a big rig, thanks AC guys of RUclips!
Great diagnostic info, replacing this valve myself saved me lots of money, Thanks!!
NOTE This fix worked on my 2014 Altima but you do NOT need to remove the ac to replace the RCV solenoid. It is clearly accessible from under the car I just put the altima on mini ramps and its right there. Got the part form ebay for $40. Thanks for your helpful video
Did you have to evacuate the system?
I have a 2010 Fusion sport with a similar problem. Insufficient A/C when it's 30+ degrees C outside and the engine is at idle. As far as I know, the system is fully charged. I'll ask Ford to check this. Thanks for a great video!
That’s exactly whats happening to my 2013 FORD EXPLORER. I wish you were in phoenix arizona lol i would take it to you. You know what youre doing. I took it to a mechanic and he just charged me to vacuum the system and recharge it and its still not that cold.
Great breakdown. I now know what that valve does. Thank you.
Just an fyi. I've replaced the refrigerant control valve w/o removing the compressor and that fixed it! It took me about 1.5 hrs to replaces it though (mainly because it was a pain to remove the retention ring due to limit space) but it worked.
had a Saturn Vue 2007 run cold down the interstate but hot sitting in traffic. replaced the scroll valve pulled a vaccum and refill the unit and it's still cooling after three years.
Educating video in very simple form. Well done man.
I have identical problem with my Acura TSX 2005. When I turn off the engine pressures equalize about in 5 minutes. Also I can rotate the A/C clutch with my finger. Is it related to weak compressor, or TXV?
Thanks for the detailed and methodical explanation...
TXV blocked/stuck closed? System obstruction? Highly doubt it's the compressor here
I have a similar issue on my 2006 Accord. I get SOME cooling, though. However, the low side pressure goes down to normal when I give the engine some RPM’s. And this compressor does NOT have a refrigerant control valve. Worn compressor, perhaps?
Hi,
My car's ac cools great, low pressure is 30-50 psi. High pressure is 200-250 psi. Ambient is 85F with humidity less than 15%. The only thing that is bothering me is that the compressor is running very hot to touch. I replaced the evaporater and txv recently due to leakage. What do recommend to look out for? Thanks
Thank you Brian. Good job. I appreciate your videos. Have a good day.
What tools do you need to replace the ac compressor control valve?
I have a 2015 Nissan SV it is doing the pressures are identical to the ones on this video I found a place here in Texas that sells the refrigerant control valve do you recommend me pulling the compressor or can I replace it in place if I put it on jack stands and will I lose any oil
I have a 04 nissan armada 5.6. Past 4 years every single year I have taken the truck to get ac freeon refills. Till this date every time I'm at idle or stopped at red light I get hot dry air on the ac. Only on highway I get somewhat fresh but not cold how it suppose to be. Can I get some help.
my dealer told me I needed a new compressor, but I found the a/c compressor control valve online for $16.99. Very easy change out on Nissan Altima's and Sentra's.
Great Explanation on how to test the expansion valve!!!
Dude!!!! Almost clicked off but decided to hear you out a little more-GLAD I DID!! Seems you know your stuff!!! Awesome Job!!😁👍👍
wow you did a realy good job explaining thanks
VERY NICE WELL DONE VIDEO! I have rebuilt 3 or 4 automotive AC systems. One of them had a plugged orifice . Have retrofitted r12 over to r134a. With excellent results. Leaks are a problem. If you have a leak in a retrofitted r12 system the leak will be worse,with r134a because of the molecular structure of the refrigerant r134a.
interesting.
Where does system leaks most: compressor shaft, shredder valves, condenser fittings??
Very nice job, thanks for the help from "Chi-Town"
Thank you so much bro. I bought the switch for 40 bucks off ebay and saved hundreds👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Do you have a video for poor cooling at idle for systems like my 2009 Ford Fusion that don't have refrigerant control valves. I'm getting ready to begin a diagnosis on it. It has a new condenser, compressor, and TXV, so I'm suspecting a cooling fan issue, even though it didn't cool well doing 55mph yesterday with ambient temp of 95F. Note: the fan does kick on when ac is turned on inside the car.
Nice of Nissan to make getting to the a/c pressure control valve so easily. lol. I have been noticing a/c failure in many different types of 'newer' cars less than 5 years old compared to older vehicles.
actually on my 2014 altima the valve is easily accessible from the bottom, no need to remove compressor.
That's because of txv and r134 runs at a high head pressure. Fixed orfice with r12a is the way to go imo
Thank You for showing me this.
I noted you changed the thermometer location from lateral to central vent for the post-repair reading. Also, tossing around acronyms such as TSX/FOT makes sense to you but for some viewers might be confusing to the point they stop watching because the terminology is too specific for someone without the benefit of your knowledge base. Of course in my stating this I presume your intention is to share your knowledge.
You need a big shop fan to cool yourself and blow the exhaust fumes out if you don't have one. Thanks for the gauge reading and pressure read out determination. Plus other info... I have heard the low side line should get cold with the engine and ac cool on.
I asked a workshop nearby to diagnose my AC system because it was weak at Idle but they said all they can do is refill system first and then diagnose. Refill didn't do anything and then they said it is going to be very expensive to repair because AC system does not give any fault codes so they recommend to have AC flush and then replace nearly every AC component.
Then i came to RUclips learning some AC diagnostics myself and it turned out that i had only faulty solenoid valve.
Thanks for the great video. Had similar performance and pressure readings but only replaced the valve not the whole compressor. Unfortunately, my results remained the same. Can there be a faulty current to the valve and is there any way to check on that?
Sounds like you had a worn out compressor,,,
Isn't that what fixed it.
ALWAYS replace the condenser when replacing the compressor. They get clogged up. They're pretty cheap.
I love using our minds and our knowledge. Great diag video
Hello, thank you for making this video it gave me some ideas on where to start diagnostics aspects. I have 2012 Altima and my AC issue is that on a typical hot day when I first turn it on it blows hot air for quite some time until finally turns on. I usually have to mess with the AC on off button which I’m sure not good for clutch plate but it does helps. Also when is on it’s not blowing a lot of cool air like it should be and in AZ heat it’s pain in the butt. I do not have any leaks since my father check it every summer. Could you kindly tell me what could be wrong with this AC system?
I'm in Arizona. Having same problem. Did you ever find out what the issue was?
Man thank you so much! This video was a huge help! Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the great video. My car AC system very similar to your case except when the engine is off. It reads 105 at low side and 58 at high side. It does not go equilibrium. Possible clogged at somewhere? I removed desiccant bag that is very dark color. Would it be the cause? When engine running and AC on, low side 48, high side 98, similar to your reading, also knocking noise. Could it be electronic control valve? Thanks in advance.
What if the compressor clutch isn’t coming on? But the ipdm test works and clutch engages 5 times. But I checked all wiring and I have power to everything. Will pressure control valve be the issue if ac button is on and doesn’t engage the clutch?
Or added to much Freon be the problem?
Thank you for making these videos Brian keep up the good work!!!!!!
New to the channel and wanted to comment on what a great video this is! Great job and keep up the good work!
THAT'S WHERE THE NOISE & FOG CAME FROM, HUH? '04 E-350 5.4 pulled my compressor to replace hose also replaced dryer & o-rings. I spilled about an ounce of oil but did not see anymore in the comp. I added about 5 oz. to the comp. & 4 oz. to the new dryer / receiver. My AC & refrigeration guy came by from work sucked it down but did NOT have his high side gauge. The Van with rear air take 40 oz. R134a when we got her almost full & there was a couple thuds & a silver fog. AC is 60 degrees at idle & will get down to 44 degrees while moving. I'm 61 & not alot of $$$ but is it time for a auto ac guy? Thanks!
Does a/c clutch go on and off when the a/c is on and the car is working on idle in park gear on 2010 nissan altima or the clutch is engaged as long as the a/c is on?
Need a video on a car surging at idle with the ac on blows out cold prior to idling at a stop light stop the car at any given stop light car starts surging idle rpm going up a little bit then back down every few seconds sounding like is is reving up then ac quicts blowing cold starts blowing luke warm air. Already had a mechanic r134a still having the same issue. And belt queaks when accelerating with the ac on.
Control valves are all over the place online. Unfortunately, the 4 c Nissan Altima does not use this valve. Did you give your customer the option of just changing out the control valve?
Where does the power come from feeding the control solenoid? Is it controlled by the ECM or what and could it be a problem rather then solenoid failure?
On my 2000 sable dohc, a few years ago, the low pressure side cut-off switch went bad, so I recovered old freon, swapped the bad switch, the orifice, and any o-rings I could reach. Refilled with a little dye, little PAG-40, and filled freon using manifold gauges, using the hood sticker as a reference. Still works great!
Question: just got a chevy van (2000, 53k) with rear AC system. It works, but is there any benefit to changing the orifice, old freon, and/or anything else? Does the freon or oil break down over time?
The dryer breaks down over time and pieces of it will plug up orifices, or help jam a txv
@@benjaminkline4855 interesting to know, Txs.
FYI: the 1st leak to check is the SHREDDER VALVES !!! They do not reseat well once opened for refill...
What are the normal pressures of off and on for a 2006 mazda 3s 2.3L AT non turbo?
SUBSTANTIAL FordTechMakuloco
Tutorial brilliant video amazing footage 👏 thank you FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Hello. My mechanic just vacuumed and charged the a/c on my 2010 altima. It cools good. However my clutch does not stop turning as long as my a/c is on. It stops when I turn off the a/c. When I tested this, the temperature setting was on 50%, just at the middle, and it was evening so not too hot weather. I waited around 5-10 minutes and the clutch did not stop turning. It was cold in the car but not very cold. When I turned the temperature switch to max, the air from the vents went colder. So the a/c temperature control system (probably some kind of thermostat) works properly. The only problem is that the clutch does not stop turning which increases the a/c gas pressure too much so it leaks out of the system. What’s the problem? How to fix?
How do you tell if the problem is the compressor or the valve? What would be different in the gauge readings?
Dude, such a nice job I had to subscribe & add you to SMA, ScannerDanner, NGK and all the other superb mechanic-technician-magicians posting awesome training vids here.
Thank you from another ChiTown boy.
edit: with plenty of my own air-con fixes just-a-waitn.
I've got a 95 GMC K1500 with 107k miles.
Had to replace the AC lines due to the charge port leaking and I replaced the AC condenser.
The AC compressor was replaced around 68k miles. The compressor is running without kicking on and off.
The AC system has been filled to 32 ounces.
While driving the air is fairly cold, but at idle it isn't cold compared to what it used to be.
Prior to replacing the lines and condenser the AC was very cold whether driving or idle.
What could be the issue?
Is it possible to test the old and new refrigerant control valve prior to reinstalling the AC compressor?
I have a PT cruiser it has a low pressure shut off switch and a high pressure shut off switch is thst the same as the control on the compressor,?
I don't think my 2012 has this valve on the compressor. ..where else could it be located?
For anyone who is testing their A/C system by putting a thermometer in your vents always be sure you put it in the central vents above your radio.
The vents to either side of the vehicle are extensions from the center air distribution box which is located behind the radio area in the dash. In the center vents it will be cooler than the others.
Unfortunately on the Sentra model the valve is on the side and facing the front of the car. You can unplug it but it's impossible to grab the snap ring. You have to remove the compressor, remove the ring, replace the valve. Kimda sucks
How to tell the difference between a failing compressor and a bad/stuck refrigerant valve?
Does the 1999 expedition 5.4 have that valve? My AC only cools down at night here in FL. August 2021.
I have a slow freon leak on my front ac condenser. My ac works up front ok and I just notice my rear ac is only blowing outside temp air. Will the leak up front on the condenser affect the rear ac or does the rear ac have its own freon that it relies on. Thanks for any help I have a new front ac on the way. 2002 Tahoe
Great video thanks!! How did you know that it wasn't just a somewhat weak compressor?
With the compressor clutch spinning and him looking at the guage readings..... they would be identical. When he was looking at it even with a fully charged system the low side was like 56 and the high side was over 120. With a bad compressor the readings would be the same. Example 90 on low and 90 on high. Hope this helps. But those readings can only be valid if ur clutch is spinning
@@jasonc.4683 Not exactly true,,
A weak or really worn out compressor will have a high low side pressures and low high side pressures,,
If the valve were sticking open then the pressures would be equal.
Can you help me with bad compressor or is it bad valve !?? Like you explained in terma of reading!? Do you mean the gauges would look like the one in video? For bad compressor aswell!??
@@attashsaqib5028 What are you working on and what are your pressures??
Have you verified proper Freon level
@@justingeraldi2304 it's Nissan Maxima 2013 i dont get cooling while idle but upon rev i do, proper frean we don't have such automated machines over here in garages . The mechanic says its weak compressor but it's the same compressor which i changed & worked well 2 3 daysc& than it became like this ! What would you suggest
Is A/C control valve the same as pressure relief valve? The factory service manual for my nissan versa doesn't mention any a/c control valve only pressure relief valve and expansion valve. Do all auto A/C's have control valves? I can't find it mentioned anywhere in the FSM. Thanks!
Only variable displacement compressors have control valves. Though, both can spring leaks (just had a relief valve replaced on my Delphi CVC because its oring was leaking, but the actual control valve is still fine).
PTA Weston No a pressure relief valve is a safety device to release excessive pressure due to system malfunction
Great video, but what does it mean if the fan is running crazy high when the ac is on? I mean, if you are standing outside the car you can really hear like it is going to take off. What is up with that?