sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know a way to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid forgot my password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.
I was a tech before these newer compressors (80's) and had to learn about them after my Hyundai Tuscon had a cooling issue with high low side pressures. I chased it until I found these type of vids. Replaced the valve and it brought the pressure back to normal and cooling was back to normal 46 degrees after being stuck at 60 prior. Thanks to you for doing these!!!! Saved me a ton of money doing it all myself.
The car provided a perfect case for your video. You provided the perfect explanation and repair and I learned about a control valve in the compressor. Nice job.
Great video. Thanks "mekuloco" for that regulator valve function description on the low side and the reason why the expansion valve should not be suspected as being faulty.
Thanks Brian. Your reasoning behind the troubleshooting process is impeccable. I appreciate your thorough feedback on what you're looking at, it really helps people viewing your videos.
I'm impressed by your clean shop. I can't stand a dirty, greasy auto shop as most of them are. Great video! I'm a commercial HVAC tech and this exact problem on my 2015 Altima had me scratching my head. I evacuated the system and put a measured charge back in and no change. My gauge readings are exactly the same as yours! Thanks!
That makes a lot of sense. I can picture it in my head now. Very interesting and effective diagnosis method The compressor's inability to "pump" refrigerant from the suction side causes a backup that increases the pressure, and impedes the condenser from releasing the heat; High suction pressure, poor cooling, voila! Brilliant, live and learn!
This was very educational. I have a 2013 Peterbuilt a/c works great while I'm driving but at idle it warms up and doesn't cool. I've done a lot of research and watching these videos, I am convinced it needs to go in the shop. Ty
Holy crap , this video might actually be the one to save me from going insane! My pressures are 70/145 with 95 ambient temp. I’m going to replace that valve asap. Thank you!
Id rather change the compressor in the beginning. trying to troubleshoot an A/C system can get expensive if you cant recover the refrigerant yourself. 3 to 4 trips to the shop to recover freon after a failed attempt is outta control. Im dealing with this now. I suspect the valve is my issue but those same readings could be a bad compressor.
@@The_sTress I've been told that it's most likely too much pag oil in the system. I'm going to replace the accumulator with a new one to get rid of the oil that's stored in the old one. Fingers crossed.
Amazing!!! I was just about to fork out $1200, $1500 to get my wife’s 2014 Altima AC fixed. it’s experiencing the same diagnostic issue in this video and I have no doubt it is the refrigerator control valve which I will be fixing. Thank you so much for this video. Thank God for RUclips. I have become my own mechanic because of you. 😁I just replaced by spark pugs and a spark pug terminal made possible by watching RUclips videos. 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
@@ricardooconnor2362 I have one on the way. Perhaps I'll check back in after I install and let you know how it goes. It would be nice if maybe you can do the same! Thanks.
Another visual check is to see how clean the condenser is. I just did one that was almost completely plugged with bugs dirt dust cotton etc. I actually pulled the radiator out (didn't want to crack the AC unless absolutely necessary) so I could thoroughly clean all fins on both. Starting pressure 30/270 @80°. When cleaning was done it was 37/175@ 77° blowing a nice 42° in the cabin now. If I hadn't thought to check and clean it, I would have done a orifice, dryer, and flush, and I doubt it would have fixed anything.
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@@matthewstorm5188I don’t know anywhere enough about this stuff but I have the nose off the front of my Jeep and that thing looks like it lost a really bad rock fight!
I have been doing a/c work in mojave desert over 45 years, and you are very correct and a great a c tech. Keep current and trained and you will have a great career and profits. Thanks I couldn't have explained it better. THE sweet spot on low a c pressure I usually explain to them a low side preferred pressure range around 25 to 45 p s i. Running.
Great video. I have the exact same car with the exact same issue, exact same manifold gauge readings (high side normal low side too high) and exact same temp blowing out the vents, lol. I wish I saw this video before I replaced the TXV, the condenser, flushed out the evap, checked both cooling fan operation etc. I did everything but replace the compressor and control valve. Most people just look for a click out of the compressor and think it's not the issue. This shows that even if the compressor clicks on, it could still be at fault (Compressor control valve in this case)
I have the same issue and same readings on the same car as well. Did you figure out what ultimately fixed your vehicle? I've already replaced this valve, but I still have the same problem. I'm thinking since he ended up changing the whole compressor, that maybe it was a bad compressor to begin with. Did you end up having to change yours? Or just the things you mentioned? Thanks!!
Dylan Parker I changed the expansion valve first but that didn’t solve the issue. I replaced the condenser as well but still the same. Only after replacing this valve, the reading improved and the air was ice cold
@@jameslouis4309 Thank you for the reply! I still feel like this is my issue. But I don't know how to test the replacement control valve I bought on eBay. Maybe my replacement doesn't work either..
Dylan Parker I agree. I couldn’t test the old one either. Usually you can hit it with 12v and hear a click but not with these. I just installed the new one and hoped for the best and thankfully, that was it.
Nice! Work… please mention to always check the cabin air filter and evaporator general condition for foreign materials! That shall be a line item on the troubleshooting process!
Thank you ,for all these precious infoes, I have an Avalon 2013 that I took to the dealer they did not know the problem they said the system is clogged somewhere,,,ha ha ha like the sewer ???? I am away from home now but I am pretty sure it is the pressure control valve.thank you again
Wow, exactly the thing I'm looking for! I suppose this is my issue now, when at idle the cooling is not as good as when I rev the engine. But when I rev the engine, the pressure on the low side is at 50, 52 which is way too high, while on the high side is at 200, 210. (mine is BMW E90)
NOTE This fix worked on my 2014 Altima but you do NOT need to remove the ac to replace the RCV solenoid. It is clearly accessible from under the car I just put the altima on mini ramps and its right there. Got the part form ebay for $40. Thanks for your helpful video
I had a ford escort that the dealer wanted to charge me 1300 dollars to fix. I said no and took the car home. The dealer said i needed a whole new ac system. I started troubleshooting the problem myself and all i needed was a cycling pressure switch for 18 dollars from Napa. I fixed myself and i was happy as hell.
wolf2351 you can’t trust mechanics anymore, the world is so fucked anymore and you can’t trust or believe anyone. I told my Dad his mechanic was robbing him. For years I kept telling him, but he was like naaaa, he wouldn’t do that he’s a good guy, bla bla bla. Then he went to get a noise looked at and they said he had to replace his axles and power steering pump, 1200.00. But eventually dad found out when he noticed his power steering pump wasn’t changed and I got to say I told ya so. I’m sure he didn’t need, or get new axles either. Fix it yourself people, it’s not hard unless you lack time like a lot of us. Nobody wants to spend your day off working on a car, but it’s better than giving a mechanic a whole paycheck to fix something simple.
I don't believe that for 1 second.. The cycling switch is the very first thing to check after verifying that it has Freon. Did you ask for an explanation of what exactly they found. Please post technicians comments on repair order
Well, here it is two years after you posted this video and my wife's 2015 Nissan Altima is doing exactly what is happening in this video with very similar readings. I'm doing this job now however, (like you said) a bit hard to find the replacement part. I think NAPA may have it. Lots of people have complained about AC compressor failure's on these Nissans. I'm guessing its this little part like in your video that may be at fault however, Dealerships and repair shops just see an opportunity to swap out entire systems and make a little more off folks. I find it a little odd that this fails and the car is only 5 years old with about 60k miles meanwhile, we have a 12 year old Hyundai Entourage with just under 200k miles and it's AC system is still original and going strong. Anyways, thanks for the video. Edit follow up 8/5/2020: It was the control valve for our 2015 Nissan Altima SV. NAPA did not have the part like I thought. AutoZone said they could order one for about 85-90 dollars, (part number MT3452 ) from Santech. This part only fits 2013 through 2017 2.5L Altima SV & SL models only. I found one on ebay by typing in the part number for 26.00 dollars and free shipping. Took a chance and it seems to be working for now. Not sure how long it will last as the part is made in China. If it get us through the remainder of the summer I'll be happy as it's better than replacing the whole compressor. Good luck to anyone dealing with this.
@@MigDw311 Yeah, it was that little part like in the video. AutoZone has the part you can order for like 80-100 dollars. I found one on ebay for cheaper and its working good now. If you're having this issue too I wish you much luck. This video save me a good chunk of money. I didnt even have to remove the compressor from the car. Was able to access it from under the car. If you need the part it's: part number MT3452 from Santech. This part only fits 2013 through 2017 2.5L Altima SV & SL models only.
Nice of Nissan to make getting to the a/c pressure control valve so easily. lol. I have been noticing a/c failure in many different types of 'newer' cars less than 5 years old compared to older vehicles.
13:30 I'm glad you made this distinction clear. the electronic valves like this one are lesser known and studied by most. also doesn't the valve close when it's off and sensing no heat? like a mechanical valve it would close when powers off so why do the pressures equalize?
Thanks for the accurate assessment determining TXV and control valve. My 2014 Corolla A/C has cold air when driving then at a stop it turns to hot air 10-15 minutes later cold again, do you think this is the control valve on the compressor causing the problem?
VERY NICE WELL DONE VIDEO! I have rebuilt 3 or 4 automotive AC systems. One of them had a plugged orifice . Have retrofitted r12 over to r134a. With excellent results. Leaks are a problem. If you have a leak in a retrofitted r12 system the leak will be worse,with r134a because of the molecular structure of the refrigerant r134a.
For anyone who is testing their A/C system by putting a thermometer in your vents always be sure you put it in the central vents above your radio. The vents to either side of the vehicle are extensions from the center air distribution box which is located behind the radio area in the dash. In the center vents it will be cooler than the others.
I have a 2010 Fusion sport with a similar problem. Insufficient A/C when it's 30+ degrees C outside and the engine is at idle. As far as I know, the system is fully charged. I'll ask Ford to check this. Thanks for a great video!
Just an fyi. I've replaced the refrigerant control valve w/o removing the compressor and that fixed it! It took me about 1.5 hrs to replaces it though (mainly because it was a pain to remove the retention ring due to limit space) but it worked.
Best explanation of how to read the gauges! I've replaced the compressor, condenser and expansion valve on a 2003 Lexus sc430. The ac works great at or above 1000 rpm otherwise the compressor shuts off. Any ideas why?
Well done! Good video with nice editing and good production values. But, take it from another mechanic that has gotten "older" now, get some gloves on and save what's left of your finger nails; when the cuticles start to go away, and yours are, your body absorbs way more toxins. Cancer sucks! Get gloves and use them. New sub and thumbs up!
Great video! For me that greatest pain is to get the valve out of the compressor. I am using my hand to get it out but its not coming out. I don't want to use pliers and more force since I have seen on other videos that they use pliers and they break where the connector plugs in. If it breaks, the rest of the valve will be stuck inside the compressor and YOU will have to remove the compressor and if you cant get the valve out you have to problems. I don't want use any w40 or other stuff since I don't know if the AC will get contaminated. I will keep trying to see if it comes out, wish me luck.
That’s exactly whats happening to my 2013 FORD EXPLORER. I wish you were in phoenix arizona lol i would take it to you. You know what youre doing. I took it to a mechanic and he just charged me to vacuum the system and recharge it and its still not that cold.
2000 Jeep Cherokee... Will not Take Freon... Compressor worked great in the other jeep 96 cherokee country both 4.o but i had to change out the backs because they were in different positions. 96 back of 2000 top of comp. I had it vac. and put ruffly 4 oz oil that it took no problem. wont take freon. i know its pumping for sure because i took off the low side sensor held down the valve with the clutched manually kicked in with trying to put freon in it and it blew off one of the lines going into the condencer. So ya its building up pressure but not sure on the suction part. as far as the power/fuses etc. I start the car turn on A/C controls, Hi/max, with a test light i have pwer on both wires coming from the compressor . the ground on the comp. shows to be hot too. Both incerts show hot on the low pressure switch /cycling switch unless i unhook the high side switch. then one side hot no light on the other insert.Then i try to bridge it over and it still dont kick the clutch in. If i try that with it showing 2 hots it blows the big 20 amp fuse. Same if i try to bridge it over from the ac relay on the fuse box. the fan shows 2 hot coming out of the switch going to the fan but 1 hot 1 ground going in the plug. When I unplug the ac compressor i still have power on the compressor end/plug and both wires but no power on the plug wire coming from the wiring harness. Even with everything unhooked. low side high side fan and ac compressor i still have power on the compressor. both wires... Only time the wire from the harness has powe is when i plug in the ac. Is that right?? My low pressure switch 4 ports has power on 3 out of 4 ports/slots. Car running ac controls on, if i unplug my low side sensor i then have a hot and ground on the high side switch instead of 2 hots but low side switch has 3 hot 1 neg. unplugged... i did test the wire thats going into that port and it has power going in the switch but no power in the port of the switch. If i hook the high side back up, again i got 2 hot ports on the low pressure switch. Even when i have 1 hot side other neg with the high side unplugged = it still wont cycle the clutch but it dont blow the fuse then. Do i have a ground somewhere maybe causing it not to let it take freon??? P need help caus i cant afford to take it to a shop...
Great informational video, thankyou for sharing. 👌🏻👏🏻👏🏻 🖐 🇦🇺
5 лет назад
Dude, such a nice job I had to subscribe & add you to SMA, ScannerDanner, NGK and all the other superb mechanic-technician-magicians posting awesome training vids here. Thank you from another ChiTown boy. edit: with plenty of my own air-con fixes just-a-waitn.
The solenoids for the AC compressors are widely available online... often the auto mechanists etc would ‘recommend’ complete replacement of New compressor. It’s easier job and higher value, esp service Dept that has profit objective to attain.
Had to get one shipped from the US, overseas. Can't find them anywhere where i am, except pulled out of an old and likely seriously abused junkyard AC compressor.
my dealer told me I needed a new compressor, but I found the a/c compressor control valve online for $16.99. Very easy change out on Nissan Altima's and Sentra's.
I noted you changed the thermometer location from lateral to central vent for the post-repair reading. Also, tossing around acronyms such as TSX/FOT makes sense to you but for some viewers might be confusing to the point they stop watching because the terminology is too specific for someone without the benefit of your knowledge base. Of course in my stating this I presume your intention is to share your knowledge.
You need a big shop fan to cool yourself and blow the exhaust fumes out if you don't have one. Thanks for the gauge reading and pressure read out determination. Plus other info... I have heard the low side line should get cold with the engine and ac cool on.
When you turn off compressor and you measure temp on suction line and temp is going up quickly it tells you valves are leaking high temp high pressure gas back through valves on a residential system. Would it be same for this? Thanks great video!
this is s great video, very comprehensive and well explained. I have a question: would all this apply to a semi truck's AC which is not cold when idling. thank you.
I asked a workshop nearby to diagnose my AC system because it was weak at Idle but they said all they can do is refill system first and then diagnose. Refill didn't do anything and then they said it is going to be very expensive to repair because AC system does not give any fault codes so they recommend to have AC flush and then replace nearly every AC component. Then i came to RUclips learning some AC diagnostics myself and it turned out that i had only faulty solenoid valve.
had a Saturn Vue 2007 run cold down the interstate but hot sitting in traffic. replaced the scroll valve pulled a vaccum and refill the unit and it's still cooling after three years.
Very good information. It used a valve separate from the exp valve. I would replace the compressor and receiver/dryer. Oil and charge the system. Should pull 40 degrees out the registers. And DRY air. Pretty humid in Chicago.
I have a similar issue on my 2006 Accord. I get SOME cooling, though. However, the low side pressure goes down to normal when I give the engine some RPM’s. And this compressor does NOT have a refrigerant control valve. Worn compressor, perhaps?
I'm having the same problem. With over 5 thousand dollars spent in 2019 and 2020 on this 2011 Mazda Cx-7 and still I'm at 80 degrees at an idle. My main problem is just finding an honest mechanic.
Hi, My car's ac cools great, low pressure is 30-50 psi. High pressure is 200-250 psi. Ambient is 85F with humidity less than 15%. The only thing that is bothering me is that the compressor is running very hot to touch. I replaced the evaporater and txv recently due to leakage. What do recommend to look out for? Thanks
How do you know this isnt a TXD issue? It’s the expansion valve’s job to turn hot liquid refrigerant to cold liquid refrigerant by decreasing the pressure of it. It must not be doing its job if the temperature is still hot. Maybe the expansion valve is blocked?
Unfortunately on the Sentra model the valve is on the side and facing the front of the car. You can unplug it but it's impossible to grab the snap ring. You have to remove the compressor, remove the ring, replace the valve. Kimda sucks
I have a 04 nissan armada 5.6. Past 4 years every single year I have taken the truck to get ac freeon refills. Till this date every time I'm at idle or stopped at red light I get hot dry air on the ac. Only on highway I get somewhat fresh but not cold how it suppose to be. Can I get some help.
I have identical problem with my Acura TSX 2005. When I turn off the engine pressures equalize about in 5 minutes. Also I can rotate the A/C clutch with my finger. Is it related to weak compressor, or TXV? Thanks for the detailed and methodical explanation...
I have the same problems with my 2018 Pathfinder blowing hot air. Took to my dealer to find out what is up they came back telling me I have a leak on the rear pipe and it will cost me 3500 to repair which I find crazy, I need to find a second opinion on a simple repair on the rear pipes, I know it should not cost that much for ac repair.
A/c control valves are readily available 25 to 60 dollars no need to purchase whole new compressor if just the valve is faulty. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
Brian came a long way and really knows his trade! I’m Very Proud of His Accomplishments. Your Old Neighbor in OL.
sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know a way to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid forgot my password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me.
@@ezragavin2522 Putz
I was a tech before these newer compressors (80's) and had to learn about them after my Hyundai Tuscon had a cooling issue with high low side pressures. I chased it until I found these type of vids. Replaced the valve and it brought the pressure back to normal and cooling was back to normal 46 degrees after being stuck at 60 prior. Thanks to you for doing these!!!! Saved me a ton of money doing it all myself.
spot on nice to see an honest man doing a first class job greeting from a welshman working in london.
Awesome guy!! I have learned more from you in these 16 minutes than I have learned all my life about air conditioning. Keep up the great work!!
The car provided a perfect case for your video. You provided the perfect explanation and repair and I learned about a control valve in the compressor. Nice job.
Love this guy he is such a honest mechanic.
Great video. Thanks "mekuloco" for that regulator valve function description on the low side and the reason why the expansion valve should not be suspected as being faulty.
Thanks Brian. Your reasoning behind the troubleshooting process is impeccable. I appreciate your thorough feedback on what you're looking at, it really helps people viewing your videos.
I'm impressed by your clean shop. I can't stand a dirty, greasy auto shop as most of them are. Great video! I'm a commercial HVAC tech and this exact problem on my 2015 Altima had me scratching my head. I evacuated the system and put a measured charge back in and no change. My gauge readings are exactly the same as yours! Thanks!
Was your Altima the S or no. I’m having the same problem but I have a 2015 Altima S with 2.5L but it don’t have that control valve on it
Excellent presentation! Kept wanting to skip ahead but couldn't because every word was worth listening to. Cheers!
I just replaced my compressor myself because i had the same problem. It definitely fixed my problem.
That makes a lot of sense. I can picture it in my head now. Very interesting and effective diagnosis method The compressor's inability to "pump" refrigerant from the suction side causes a backup that increases the pressure, and impedes the condenser from releasing the heat; High suction pressure, poor cooling, voila! Brilliant, live and learn!
Excellent video have not seen any one else explain the refrigerant control valve .Thanks
This was very educational. I have a 2013 Peterbuilt a/c works great while I'm driving but at idle it warms up and doesn't cool. I've done a lot of research and watching these videos, I am convinced it needs to go in the shop. Ty
ac compressor clutch not working all Elantra ac not cooling
Which company making Hyundai in Korea pls slove ac proplem SPL on Elantra
Holy crap , this video might actually be the one to save me from going insane! My pressures are 70/145 with 95 ambient temp. I’m going to replace that valve asap. Thank you!
How did it go?
Yo. How'd your ac work out?
I actually had to replace my faulty compressor and pretty much start from scratch.
Id rather change the compressor in the beginning. trying to troubleshoot an A/C system can get expensive if you cant recover the refrigerant yourself. 3 to 4 trips to the shop to recover freon after a failed attempt is outta control. Im dealing with this now. I suspect the valve is my issue but those same readings could be a bad compressor.
@@The_sTress I've been told that it's most likely too much pag oil in the system.
I'm going to replace the accumulator with a new one to get rid of the oil that's stored in the old one. Fingers crossed.
Great info in this video! Thanks man, you clearly are way more clued up that the average AC tech.
WOW! Finally we're shown the way it's done! Liked, subscribed & activated notifications. Godspeed!
David G. Washington State
Thank you so much for posted compressor electronic valve problem
Amazing!!! I was just about to fork out $1200, $1500 to get my wife’s 2014 Altima AC fixed. it’s experiencing the same diagnostic issue in this video and I have no doubt it is the refrigerator control valve which I will be fixing. Thank you so much for this video. Thank God for RUclips. I have become my own mechanic because of you. 😁I just replaced by spark pugs and a spark pug terminal made possible by watching RUclips videos. 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Did the valve work for you?
@@phillippardo5712 i just had it delivered and need time to install it.
@@ricardooconnor2362 I have one on the way. Perhaps I'll check back in after I install and let you know how it goes. It would be nice if maybe you can do the same! Thanks.
Excellent, worthwhile, well done technical video! Very educational and enjoyable to watch.
Because I have learned a lot from guys like this on RUclips I did an AC on a big rig, thanks AC guys of RUclips!
Another visual check is to see how clean the condenser is. I just did one that was almost completely plugged with bugs dirt dust cotton etc. I actually pulled the radiator out (didn't want to crack the AC unless absolutely necessary) so I could thoroughly clean all fins on both. Starting pressure 30/270 @80°. When cleaning was done it was 37/175@ 77° blowing a nice 42° in the cabin now. If I hadn't thought to check and clean it, I would have done a orifice, dryer, and flush, and I doubt it would have fixed anything.
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Lmk my UK on nnv kk n monk njnh kk j kk v mm hg mm b MN I he k.ijkikm been m mm m on kncm MN kk kk NJ k in in all jkkmjjhbmkj on h not n mm mm i
I can b be in kk kk up kk BB b Ii h.i8jj kk kk BB NJ kk ub kk j he ok n inn kk BB gj co kk j NJ ok n be jjjokkh he j BB bnb kk tjung man k mm ok hmm. Oh no bank mm mm hg mm kkkhb on look BB kk j BB kjjomb kk just know h.yujm.u kk kk j kk n mm bbb kk kik kk kk kk kv kk nkunj kk kk j kk nbnnjb kk k kk j kk BB kk NJ kk gv
@@nickynuts8013 yes could you translate that please lol 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Sometimes, it is best to just replace the condenser. This is particularly true on old cars, where half the fins may be bent and blocked.
@@matthewstorm5188I don’t know anywhere enough about this stuff but I have the nose off the front of my Jeep and that thing looks like it lost a really bad rock fight!
I have been doing a/c work in mojave desert over 45 years, and you are very correct and a great a c tech.
Keep current and trained and you will have a great career and profits. Thanks
I couldn't have explained it better. THE sweet spot on low a c pressure I usually explain to them a low side preferred pressure range around 25 to 45 p s i. Running.
HIgh Desert?
Ultra informative and well put together!
Great video. I have the exact same car with the exact same issue, exact same manifold gauge readings (high side normal low side too high) and exact same temp blowing out the vents, lol. I wish I saw this video before I replaced the TXV, the condenser, flushed out the evap, checked both cooling fan operation etc. I did everything but replace the compressor and control valve. Most people just look for a click out of the compressor and think it's not the issue. This shows that even if the compressor clicks on, it could still be at fault (Compressor control valve in this case)
I have the same issue and same readings on the same car as well. Did you figure out what ultimately fixed your vehicle? I've already replaced this valve, but I still have the same problem. I'm thinking since he ended up changing the whole compressor, that maybe it was a bad compressor to begin with. Did you end up having to change yours? Or just the things you mentioned? Thanks!!
Dylan Parker I changed the expansion valve first but that didn’t solve the issue. I replaced the condenser as well but still the same. Only after replacing this valve, the reading improved and the air was ice cold
@@jameslouis4309 Thank you for the reply! I still feel like this is my issue. But I don't know how to test the replacement control valve I bought on eBay. Maybe my replacement doesn't work either..
Dylan Parker I agree. I couldn’t test the old one either. Usually you can hit it with 12v and hear a click but not with these. I just installed the new one and hoped for the best and thankfully, that was it.
@@MrParker5 weak compressor most likely
Nice! Work… please mention to always check the cabin air filter and evaporator general condition for foreign materials! That shall be a line item on the troubleshooting process!
Educating video in very simple form. Well done man.
Great breakdown. I now know what that valve does. Thank you.
Very nice job, thanks for the help from "Chi-Town"
Thank You for showing me this.
Thank you ,for all these precious infoes, I have an Avalon 2013 that I took to the dealer they did not know the problem they said the system is clogged somewhere,,,ha ha ha like the sewer ????
I am away from home now but I am pretty sure it is the pressure control valve.thank you again
I'm pretty sure if it's clogged issue the high pressure reading side is much higher than normal.
Great diagnostic info, replacing this valve myself saved me lots of money, Thanks!!
Dude!!!! Almost clicked off but decided to hear you out a little more-GLAD I DID!! Seems you know your stuff!!! Awesome Job!!😁👍👍
I learn so much from RUclips videos like this. My wife calls me a RUclips Master Mechanic LOL
Wow, exactly the thing I'm looking for! I suppose this is my issue now, when at idle the cooling is not as good as when I rev the engine. But when I rev the engine, the pressure on the low side is at 50, 52 which is way too high, while on the high side is at 200, 210. (mine is BMW E90)
NOTE This fix worked on my 2014 Altima but you do NOT need to remove the ac to replace the RCV solenoid. It is clearly accessible from under the car I just put the altima on mini ramps and its right there. Got the part form ebay for $40. Thanks for your helpful video
Did you have to evacuate the system?
Thank you Brian. Good job. I appreciate your videos. Have a good day.
I had a ford escort that the dealer wanted to charge me 1300 dollars to fix. I said no and took the car home. The dealer said i needed a whole new ac system. I started troubleshooting the problem myself and all i needed was a cycling pressure switch for 18 dollars from Napa. I fixed myself and i was happy as hell.
wolf2351 you can’t trust mechanics anymore, the world is so fucked anymore and you can’t trust or believe anyone. I told my Dad his mechanic was robbing him. For years I kept telling him, but he was like naaaa, he wouldn’t do that he’s a good guy, bla bla bla. Then he went to get a noise looked at and they said he had to replace his axles and power steering pump, 1200.00. But eventually dad found out when he noticed his power steering pump wasn’t changed and I got to say I told ya so. I’m sure he didn’t need, or get new axles either. Fix it yourself people, it’s not hard unless you lack time like a lot of us. Nobody wants to spend your day off working on a car, but it’s better than giving a mechanic a whole paycheck to fix something simple.
My dad used to tell ME the mechanic thing you need patience.
Never trust the stealership I mean dealership, always get 2nd opinion
I don't believe that for 1 second..
The cycling switch is the very first thing to check after verifying that it has Freon.
Did you ask for an explanation of what exactly they found.
Please post technicians comments on repair order
Nice
Well, here it is two years after you posted this video and my wife's 2015 Nissan Altima is doing exactly what is happening in this video with very similar readings. I'm doing this job now however, (like you said) a bit hard to find the replacement part. I think NAPA may have it. Lots of people have complained about AC compressor failure's on these Nissans. I'm guessing its this little part like in your video that may be at fault however, Dealerships and repair shops just see an opportunity to swap out entire systems and make a little more off folks. I find it a little odd that this fails and the car is only 5 years old with about 60k miles meanwhile, we have a 12 year old Hyundai Entourage with just under 200k miles and it's AC system is still original and going strong. Anyways, thanks for the video.
Edit follow up 8/5/2020: It was the control valve for our 2015 Nissan Altima SV. NAPA did not have the part like I thought. AutoZone said they could order one for about 85-90 dollars, (part number MT3452 ) from Santech. This part only fits 2013 through 2017 2.5L Altima SV & SL models only. I found one on ebay by typing in the part number for 26.00 dollars and free shipping. Took a chance and it seems to be working for now. Not sure how long it will last as the part is made in China. If it get us through the remainder of the summer I'll be happy as it's better than replacing the whole compressor. Good luck to anyone dealing with this.
Any updates?
@@MigDw311 Yeah, it was that little part like in the video. AutoZone has the part you can order for like 80-100 dollars. I found one on ebay for cheaper and its working good now. If you're having this issue too I wish you much luck. This video save me a good chunk of money. I didnt even have to remove the compressor from the car. Was able to access it from under the car. If you need the part it's: part number MT3452 from Santech. This part only fits 2013 through 2017 2.5L Altima SV & SL models only.
wow you did a realy good job explaining thanks
Nice of Nissan to make getting to the a/c pressure control valve so easily. lol. I have been noticing a/c failure in many different types of 'newer' cars less than 5 years old compared to older vehicles.
actually on my 2014 altima the valve is easily accessible from the bottom, no need to remove compressor.
That's because of txv and r134 runs at a high head pressure. Fixed orfice with r12a is the way to go imo
13:30 I'm glad you made this distinction clear. the electronic valves like this one are lesser known and studied by most.
also doesn't the valve close when it's off and sensing no heat? like a mechanical valve it would close when powers off so why do the pressures equalize?
Thanks for the accurate assessment determining TXV and control valve. My 2014 Corolla A/C has cold air when driving then at a stop it turns to hot air 10-15 minutes later cold again, do you think this is the control valve on the compressor causing the problem?
VERY NICE WELL DONE VIDEO! I have rebuilt 3 or 4 automotive AC systems. One of them had a plugged orifice . Have retrofitted r12 over to r134a. With excellent results. Leaks are a problem. If you have a leak in a retrofitted r12 system the leak will be worse,with r134a because of the molecular structure of the refrigerant r134a.
interesting.
Where does system leaks most: compressor shaft, shredder valves, condenser fittings??
Thank you so much bro. I bought the switch for 40 bucks off ebay and saved hundreds👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I love using our minds and our knowledge. Great diag video
Great Explanation on how to test the expansion valve!!!
For anyone who is testing their A/C system by putting a thermometer in your vents always be sure you put it in the central vents above your radio.
The vents to either side of the vehicle are extensions from the center air distribution box which is located behind the radio area in the dash. In the center vents it will be cooler than the others.
Best AC video I’ve seen on RUclips so far!
I have a 2010 Fusion sport with a similar problem. Insufficient A/C when it's 30+ degrees C outside and the engine is at idle. As far as I know, the system is fully charged. I'll ask Ford to check this. Thanks for a great video!
Just an fyi. I've replaced the refrigerant control valve w/o removing the compressor and that fixed it! It took me about 1.5 hrs to replaces it though (mainly because it was a pain to remove the retention ring due to limit space) but it worked.
Best explanation of how to read the gauges! I've replaced the compressor, condenser and expansion valve on a 2003 Lexus sc430. The ac works great at or above 1000 rpm otherwise the compressor shuts off. Any ideas why?
Well done! Good video with nice editing and good production values. But, take it from another mechanic that has gotten "older" now, get some gloves on and save what's left of your finger nails; when the cuticles start to go away, and yours are, your body absorbs way more toxins. Cancer sucks! Get gloves and use them. New sub and thumbs up!
Can you elaborate on the cuticles thing?
Just wanna say thank you ! I have not seen a on-line Ford Tech-Mech I'd trust better. Thank you !
Do you have any videos on AC clutches going bad and what the effects are? Excellent content and its much appreciated.
SUBSTANTIAL FordTechMakuloco
Tutorial brilliant video amazing footage 👏 thank you FordTechMakuloco
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Man thank you so much! This video was a huge help! Keep up the good work.
Great video! For me that greatest pain is to get the valve out of the compressor. I am using my hand to get it out but its not coming out. I don't want to use pliers and more force since I have seen on other videos that they use pliers and they break where the connector plugs in. If it breaks, the rest of the valve will be stuck inside the compressor and YOU will have to remove the compressor and if you cant get the valve out you have to problems. I don't want use any w40 or other stuff since I don't know if the AC will get contaminated. I will keep trying to see if it comes out, wish me luck.
That’s exactly whats happening to my 2013 FORD EXPLORER. I wish you were in phoenix arizona lol i would take it to you. You know what youre doing. I took it to a mechanic and he just charged me to vacuum the system and recharge it and its still not that cold.
Thank you for making these videos Brian keep up the good work!!!!!!
2000 Jeep Cherokee... Will not Take Freon... Compressor worked great in the other jeep 96 cherokee country both 4.o but i had to change out the backs because they were in different positions. 96 back of 2000 top of comp. I had it vac. and put ruffly 4 oz oil that it took no problem. wont take freon. i know its pumping for sure because i took off the low side sensor held down the valve with the clutched manually kicked in with trying to put freon in it and it blew off one of the lines going into the condencer. So ya its building up pressure but not sure on the suction part. as far as the power/fuses etc. I start the car turn on A/C controls, Hi/max, with a test light i have pwer on both wires coming from the compressor . the ground on the comp. shows to be hot too. Both incerts show hot on the low pressure switch /cycling switch unless i unhook the high side switch. then one side hot no light on the other insert.Then i try to bridge it over and it still dont kick the clutch in. If i try that with it showing 2 hots it blows the big 20 amp fuse. Same if i try to bridge it over from the ac relay on the fuse box. the fan shows 2 hot coming out of the switch going to the fan but 1 hot 1 ground going in the plug. When I unplug the ac compressor i still have power on the compressor end/plug and both wires but no power on the plug wire coming from the wiring harness. Even with everything unhooked. low side high side fan and ac compressor i still have power on the compressor. both wires... Only time the wire from the harness has powe is when i plug in the ac. Is that right?? My low pressure switch 4 ports has power on 3 out of 4 ports/slots. Car running ac controls on, if i unplug my low side sensor i then have a hot and ground on the high side switch instead of 2 hots but low side switch has 3 hot 1 neg. unplugged... i did test the wire thats going into that port and it has power going in the switch but no power in the port of the switch. If i hook the high side back up, again i got 2 hot ports on the low pressure switch. Even when i have 1 hot side other neg with the high side unplugged = it still wont cycle the clutch but it dont blow the fuse then. Do i have a ground somewhere maybe causing it not to let it take freon??? P need help caus i cant afford to take it to a shop...
Did you figure that out?
Great informational video, thankyou for sharing. 👌🏻👏🏻👏🏻 🖐 🇦🇺
Dude, such a nice job I had to subscribe & add you to SMA, ScannerDanner, NGK and all the other superb mechanic-technician-magicians posting awesome training vids here.
Thank you from another ChiTown boy.
edit: with plenty of my own air-con fixes just-a-waitn.
New to the channel and wanted to comment on what a great video this is! Great job and keep up the good work!
The solenoids for the AC compressors are widely available online...
often the auto mechanists etc would ‘recommend’ complete replacement of New compressor.
It’s easier job and higher value, esp service Dept that has profit objective to attain.
Had to get one shipped from the US, overseas. Can't find them anywhere where i am, except pulled out of an old and likely seriously abused junkyard AC compressor.
Hey man ! Nice job. I like the way you think. Use your head before your hands. Thank you for your videos.
Great video man love doing this kinda stuff. You can work on anything as long as you understand the basics
I like how u say take the bad stuff out put some good stuff in 👍
my dealer told me I needed a new compressor, but I found the a/c compressor control valve online for $16.99. Very easy change out on Nissan Altima's and Sentra's.
Great. Tanks for the perfect explanation.
Very good and understandable troubleshooting. Thanks
I noted you changed the thermometer location from lateral to central vent for the post-repair reading. Also, tossing around acronyms such as TSX/FOT makes sense to you but for some viewers might be confusing to the point they stop watching because the terminology is too specific for someone without the benefit of your knowledge base. Of course in my stating this I presume your intention is to share your knowledge.
That is a great explanation. Thanks a lot!
You need a big shop fan to cool yourself and blow the exhaust fumes out if you don't have one. Thanks for the gauge reading and pressure read out determination. Plus other info... I have heard the low side line should get cold with the engine and ac cool on.
When you turn off compressor and you measure temp on suction line and temp is going up quickly it tells you valves are leaking high temp high pressure gas back through valves on a residential system. Would it be same for this? Thanks great video!
this is s great video, very comprehensive and well explained. I have a question: would all this apply to a semi truck's AC which is not cold when idling. thank you.
Had same problem on Toyota Rav4. Couldn't remove that solenoid! I tried everything. So I just replaced whole compressor. Even made video about it
I asked a workshop nearby to diagnose my AC system because it was weak at Idle but they said all they can do is refill system first and then diagnose. Refill didn't do anything and then they said it is going to be very expensive to repair because AC system does not give any fault codes so they recommend to have AC flush and then replace nearly every AC component.
Then i came to RUclips learning some AC diagnostics myself and it turned out that i had only faulty solenoid valve.
Great video thank you so much Mark mangano dependable auto wartburg tennessee outstanding
very informative! thanks. i think i may have this issue on my 05 tacoma xrunner
had a Saturn Vue 2007 run cold down the interstate but hot sitting in traffic. replaced the scroll valve pulled a vaccum and refill the unit and it's still cooling after three years.
Nice job. Good information. Thank you for sharing.
Very good information. It used a valve separate from the exp valve. I would replace the compressor and receiver/dryer. Oil and charge the system. Should pull 40 degrees out the registers. And DRY air. Pretty humid in Chicago.
Excellent video. Thank you
Very informative diagnosis. I like ac videos.
I have a similar issue on my 2006 Accord. I get SOME cooling, though. However, the low side pressure goes down to normal when I give the engine some RPM’s. And this compressor does NOT have a refrigerant control valve. Worn compressor, perhaps?
I'm having the same problem. With over 5 thousand dollars spent in 2019 and 2020 on this 2011 Mazda Cx-7 and still I'm at 80 degrees at an idle. My main problem is just finding an honest mechanic.
Hi,
My car's ac cools great, low pressure is 30-50 psi. High pressure is 200-250 psi. Ambient is 85F with humidity less than 15%. The only thing that is bothering me is that the compressor is running very hot to touch. I replaced the evaporater and txv recently due to leakage. What do recommend to look out for? Thanks
Nice job , very informative thank you.
How do you know this isnt a TXD issue? It’s the expansion valve’s job to turn hot liquid refrigerant to cold liquid refrigerant by decreasing the pressure of it. It must not be doing its job if the temperature is still hot. Maybe the expansion valve is blocked?
Unfortunately on the Sentra model the valve is on the side and facing the front of the car. You can unplug it but it's impossible to grab the snap ring. You have to remove the compressor, remove the ring, replace the valve. Kimda sucks
I have a 04 nissan armada 5.6. Past 4 years every single year I have taken the truck to get ac freeon refills. Till this date every time I'm at idle or stopped at red light I get hot dry air on the ac. Only on highway I get somewhat fresh but not cold how it suppose to be. Can I get some help.
Thank you for the knowledge.
Great video!!! Thank You
How to tell the difference between a failing compressor and a bad/stuck refrigerant valve?
I have identical problem with my Acura TSX 2005. When I turn off the engine pressures equalize about in 5 minutes. Also I can rotate the A/C clutch with my finger. Is it related to weak compressor, or TXV?
Thanks for the detailed and methodical explanation...
TXV blocked/stuck closed? System obstruction? Highly doubt it's the compressor here
I have the same problems with my 2018 Pathfinder blowing hot air. Took to my dealer to find out what is up they came back telling me I have a leak on the rear pipe and it will cost me 3500 to repair which I find crazy, I need to find a second opinion on a simple repair on the rear pipes, I know it should not cost that much for ac repair.
What tools do you need to replace the ac compressor control valve?
Excellent very clear explanation keep it up please.
A/c control valves are readily available 25 to 60 dollars no need to purchase whole new compressor if just the valve is faulty. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
Yup if you can find them and can wait then go for it.