I’ve watched about a dozen videos VW Jetta A/C troubleshooting. This video is hands down the best! The captions, the reading in the low side, removing the solenoid from the compressor. Very informative clearly understood. I’ll watch it again and again. Thumbs up!
This did the trick! VW mk6 variant 2012, 1,6 tdi 77 kw; first i thought there is not enough cooler fill (the car was able to blow cold air for like 10 seconds and after just blows hot air, in 30 C+), so i got it filled, nothing changed at all. Then the mechanc said to change the compressor for $$$ so i reached out to this video and this did the trick so far, THANKS, for fraction of the price like 1/5. The part number was - 5N0820803H - my clima control display unit says both AUTO and DUAL and the valve fitted the compressor just right.
I saw this on a VW forum a few years ago on an old laptop; I bookmarked it and lost the laptop. Thanks for putting it out there, RKX. Summer is coming on in southern AZ where I live and I'll get his little widget!
Just a PSA for those curious customers wondering if this is a sure fire fix. This is coming to you from an auto tech with 15+ years experience in the field. 7 of which were spent at a VW dealer. Presently, run my own German car repair center in the heartland of mandatory A/C: Miami, FL. Firstly, you must get a competent MVAC shop to properly diagnose your system. Many things can cause poor cooling. Finally, if it is confirmed to be the solenoid, understand that this will not be a permanent fix. It will get you by, 6-8 months, maybe a year. The trouble is these valves fail due to debris circulating inside the system from compressor wear. Not a knock on RKX, I have used a plethora of their products (vacuum pump reseal kits FTW). This is only a bandaid to buy you time. The long term, trouble free repair is to replace the compressor and drier/condenser assembly. (It is built in to the condenser.) What happens is as the compressor wears down, debris is pushed out the exhaust (high side), and finds its way inside this solenoid. With time, it just plugs up and seizes. The other issue is, as the compressor wears, it becomes less effective, so the solenoid is cycled more vigorously. This leads to premature wear of the armature inside the solenoid. TLDR, if you are on a budget, and a professional confirms the valve is bad, replacing it will buy you sometime, but another failure is in the near future. Replacement of the compressor, and drier/condenser assembly will guarantee another 50-60k of trouble free miles from the new unit.
6-8 months in miami, that's like 2-3 years in Minnesota; I'll go with the valve. But I'm surprised to hear wear causes this as my 20-year-old Honda with 240k still blows cold air and the system has never been messed with. It must be the continual use of the A/C that my Louisana Jetta went through.
Just want to say thanks- I told a friend I was having ac issues and it would cost $1500.00 to replace. He sent me the link to this video. I bought the solenoid and had it installed by a local mechanic. It works great. total cost less than $200 installed. Awesome, thanks!
Do you have a Volkswagen Jetta and if so what year? I'm in the same boat right now, looking at $1300 to replace my AC compressor because it won't turn on
Here’s a pro tip: you don’t need to do any of the following things recommended in the video: Take off the tire Move the wheel liner Move the serpentine Dismount the compressor. Just take the vertical dog bone mount out and pull back on the engine with a ratchet strap between the block and the subframe. You’ll have plenty of room to get the valve in & out.
Perfect solution to 2007 Rabbit... 4 yo compressor... would not blow cold at idle, only at highway speeds... replaced and did high side charge and COLD air at idle now! Thanks for your expertise!
I did mine the other day for Mk6 Jetta. It fixed my problem. You may have to spray the area with penetrating oil and wait for a few min before trying to remove the valve since the o-ring and the grove get rusted and the plastic tab gets broken off if you try to pry it w/o the oil.
He is correct, i had the same problem as his video. you don't have to take down the belt and the compressor if you willing to manuver the 90 degree snap ring plier. this video is clear explanation and steps. very helpful. thank you.
Thanks for the input. Some models and engines have more room to work and can defiantly be done without removing the compressor with the right tools (the 2.0t Passat comes to mind). The TDI jetta in this video and some others have much less room to work in and its usually easier to just take a few minutes and drop the compressor down to gain some extra working space, but defiantly more than 1 way to do this job! Glad you got your AC back up and running.
My A/C compressor on VW Passat pressure valve failed at highway speed in fast lane and it's thick fog vapor suddenly obscured all sight screening up from windshield vent port. Be quick with the windows in volume traffic. I had no idea such sorcery was possible; it's a smooth blind blowout.
Just repaired my 2011 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI. Symptom was outlet temperature that would go down to 38 degrees and then would go up to 55 and then back down again. This progressively got worse and finally the temperature for the most part would stay in high 40's to 50. I was able to remove the old solenoid from underneath the car. I first brought the car to an auto shop and had the refrigerant evacuated. I then put the car on jack stands, removed the lower panel, and was able to access the compressor. The only difficulty I encountered was I needed a 90 degree snap ring tool which I bought for $24 at NAPA. After replacing the solenoid I had the auto shop vacuum the system and refill with refrigerant ($87). I also cut open the old solenoid to look for debris as mentioned by a shop owner below but did not find any. I suspect the solenoid simply no longer actuated as my car now has a constant 35 degrees coming from outlet.
Keep in mind with the variable compressor and ambient conditions this number will fluctuate anywhere from 34 all the way up to 50 in extreme heat / humidity conditions. 41-42 sounds perfectly normal for a lot of normal ambient conditions
Thank you for your valuable video. Will freon gas leak when replacing the solenoid valve? Is it necessary to extract freon gas before replacing the solenoid valve? Please answer
Oh yes. In some countries, you also have to get these valves shipped from the US, because parts stores only sell brand new compressors and nothing else, and dealer stores no longer have them once the car is old enough. I had to get mine shipped from the US.
Whats the likelihood of popping the solenoid out and using the extra room between fan blades to do it with compressor still in situ? Belly pan off, right angle circlip pliers etc
its sensitive to overfilling it, the temp will go up instead of down. I put 22 oz in it and it was blowing 50 degree air, after recovering a little refridgerant, it came right down to 40 degrees. 18oz is the spec.
Worth mentioning that some of these compressors have main shaft failure so a new valve won't solve that. Very important to check gas pressures and levels before making your diagnosis. Seems to be very difficult to get these valves in the UK
I have 2012 vw passat se 2.5l and the AC works only when the car is moving and even then it is not cold enough. A lot of people are saying the problem is the valve. Is it true? And can you help me find the part number? VW has one for $250 but I think that is too much
My compressor pulley spins but not the centre part, which according to previous comments means my compressor has seized. However I can rotate the central part (inside the pulley) by hand and it rotates fine. Also I can feel some resistance like it is actually turning the compressor, so seems like my compressor is not seized. Any advice on why the centre part doesn't spin but I can still spin it by hand? Could this be caused by the solenoid valve or not?
hi i have a question is this also a repair if ac wont give cold air when car has no movment or rpm with gas pedal, but when its on movment on 1500-2000rpm ??
I noticed in the comments quite a few people had certain questions. First off when the tech evacuated the system, he removed all refrigerant from the system and stored it in a holding tank on his machine. After the repair he pulled a "deep Vacuum". This should be done for at least 30 minutes and preferably 1 hour depending on relative humidity. The more humid it is, the longer you need to pull vacuum. Replacement of the receiver/drier is optional as long as the system isn't open to air for more than 10-15 minutes, again depending on relative humidity. Pull the valve out, install the new one and pull vacuum right away. This can also be done on other brands of VW compressors. As far as over engineering goes, would you rather replace the compressor? You should also make sure your clutch isn't damaged before you replace this valve. I have seen numerous clutches broken where people install the valve then wonder why it doesn't work. Make sure first.
Thanks for your clarification. So I'm assuming the solenoid can't be replaced without removing the freon? Meaning it's not something I can do on a ramp with just a couple of hand tools?
I've been struggling with very very similar problem with my Audi A3 2010 HVAC since it went for the 60k(I guess) km periodic service. As soon as I took the car from the Audi dealership, grabbed the phone and called right away to say that was more than 30Cº outside and the car just did not cooled the cabin like before. Just didn’t made cood as before and could not cooled me inside the cabin. They regassed it, adjusted the vents, improved but was never like before. I live in Southern Europe and in Summer I get 40Cº days and this car when was brand new refreshed the cabin in 2 minutes of A/C working. Just from the start of the engine, even before it got to operating temperature, against what Audi technicians say (BS from them). Can a bad service ruin the solenoid or compressor ? I don’t know if this is my exact problem, but I should try it. Do any of you have the same problme as me and solved it replacing this solenoid ? PS :What makes me mad is that Audi technicians just don’t know how to diagnose this and they just replace the all compressor unit. They should be the first ones to know what’s wrong with the car. Thanks a lot you guys for letting this out to other people.
Hello mate, I'm having the same issues you are talking about on my 2008 passat. Did replacing the solenoid work for you? I was thinking to replace the compressor but I think of replacing just the solenoid first
When you evacuate the AC system you will lose some oil. If you have an AC machine it will usually have a bottle that it drains any oil it pulled out into so you know how much to put back in. If you use other methods of recovery you may have to guess, but usually adding 1/2 - 1 OZ of PAG oil will be just fine.
@@ryanjacobson5694 This is why I had a professional technician purge/replace my refrigerant while upgrading the factory solenoid switch with the RKX Tech one. Because he did it with the proper equipment. I didn't have to worry about over or undercharging the refrigerant or replacing the correct amount of PAG oil. Spending the extra money to have it done this way is worth the peace of mind. My Sanden compressor works MUCH better now. It cools quicker and cooler. The compressor has 157K miles on it and it works flawlessly.
@@ryanjacobson5694 The other way to look at the failure of your AC is an opportunity to learn how to fix AC. This requires gauges, lots of reading, evac pumps and more but it's a skill u will retain for many more cars. The skill helps u avoid unscrupulous repairmen.
There is an easy fix for the delay start ac, stops at idle, or low cooling. Remove the freon from the compressor, add approx 250 ml oil into the compressor, and than add the froen. The oil will lubricate the solenoid valve and ac will work perfectly fine. I have tried this method and well satisfied.
Compressors require a finite amount of oil and the only way to know how much is in there is to discharge the system, remove the compressor, drain the oil out of the compressor, and refill it with the specified amount. If u overfill it, the system won't cool properly. If u underfill it, the life of the compressor will be shortened.
The airco on my sons mk5 Golf does not work. Compressor spins and system has 525grams of filling inside. Both high and low pressure side have the same pressure. Between 2 and 3 bar's. Is it possible that it's just a defect valve? He measured the signal on the connector of the valve so that's okay. I see a lot of different valve's when i search on 'Golf mk5'. Different shapes (longe, short, wired connector, build in connector). Do they all fit or not? Thanks ;-)
That is how my 2012 passat 2.5 behaved before replacing the solenoid with a RKX one , it was hot at idle and cold at high RPM. After replacing it , the behavior was reversed : it is blowing cold at idle , and hot at highway speed( at high RPM, the compressor discharge pressure goes down to almost zero psi). I wonder if i have to replace it again...
Nice video. I been diagnosing some problem with my cars AC to, Audi A3 3.2. When I drive the car it blows cold air but as soon as I come to a stop or the car is in idle, it just blows hot air.
Same with my 2009 Rabbit. When RPM's are high enough, such as highway driving, the A/C blows great but if I slow down in city driving the A/C starts to go out. I drive, my standard, delaying before shifting into higher gears so I can keep the RPM's higher and keep the A/C working and rev the engine at the red lights; very bad for gas mileage. So using the standard transmission I bring the engine to 3000 rpms by keeping transmission in lower gears.
This could possibly be a bad valve, but I would check your coolings fans first. With the AC on both cooling fans should be running and never turn off. After verifying the fans work I would check the freon charge level. After verifying both of those I would then suspect a bad valve.
Did you took the freon out before proceeding , removing the solenoid? Or did you remove the solenoid without removing the freon ? I have a 2012 VW Jetta 2.5 SE and my ac does have this issues where it give cold air then blow warm air hit within 5 or 10 min while driving , it annoying.
Yes, you have to completely evacuate the system before trying to remove the solenoid from the compressor. If you don't, you'll get a face of r134a instantly as the totality of the refrigerant escapes.
@@DigitalDissident don't know about labor cost but It took me about a hour start to finish.... AC drain equipment? No.....face mask,open space ,2 lightly dampened towels and a screwdriver.
@@lenwoodcruze3594 Thanks for reply, what I meant was: did the refrigerant need to be vacuumed & recharged. It's been at least 1yr since I last had it working. Dealer quote was four figures for compressor swap but I wasn't dumb enough to do that on a car that already had 120k miles. I'm sure this will work for $34, - $280. Thanks
@@DigitalDissident If your AC compressor uses this part I'd definitely try this first or you might just need a basic recharge...(prices vary soo much from place to place it's hard to say how much it will cost you) Yes it should technically be vacuumed then recharged but if you're low on funds like me then...... Cut your car on with the AC running full blast at it's coldest setting,door or window open,get your facemask and towels,locate the port to refill your AC then press the valve (like you're letting air out of a tire).....have the port covered with your damp towels and let the old refrigerant out, most if not all will be captured by the towels......when it stops spraying then you'll know it's empty........cut your car off and replace the valve then recharge the system. I went to Walmart and got the basic AC recharge kit but "AC Pro" which is more experience does work better because it has a higher pressure level.....I got the pressure level to almost 40psi which is in the middle and things are working great
If you are a environmentalist then I am soo sorry for not evacuating the refrigerant correctly but I did what I thought was beneficial for greatly limiting my negative environmental impact.....as far as I can tell most if not all refrigerant was captured by the towels.
Hello! My Golf MK5 through VCDS and "hidden" Climatronic menu shows 9 to 12.5 bar pressure. Is it ok? What reading should I/do you get? I also have a failing G89 sensor that shows 0°C in the first 10 minute fromo engine start and prevents the compressor engagement. To replace it I have to remove ALL the dashboard (including steering wheel, radio, glove box etc...!), I'll try it later in august. I have "bad" air conditioning when the car slows down at the red light for example.
not understanding what you are saying. Is the compressor locked up...or is it not getting cold anymore. If it is not getting cold it may be there is a leak. THey are hard to diagnosis. On one of my cars I still ended up replacing the compressor and some Orings that were leaking. Uusally this valve fixes most problems at least for me.
Yes, if the pressure switch senses too high of a pressure, different things may happen. AC may also go in recirculation+minimum blower fan speed to keep the heat load low but still allow minimal AC. Failing this, the valve might stop the refrigerant flow completely, that is, let it circulate only within the compressor casing and not pump anything through the system at all. The control valve of a clutchless compressor is able to work just like a clutch, otherwise you would basically have AC always turned on in your car, in order to prevent the evaporator from freezing.
i have the 2006 jetta tdi. the ac started blowing warmish about a week ago. i thought maybe it just need a slight charge, but then figured out the fans aren't turning on as they should. would a bad valve cause the system to not turn the fans on or would something else have went bad. i checked the fuse box in the engine but have no idea what one in the panel in the dash side is for the ac. a cooling fan does kick on when the engine gets hot like normal, just not when i hit the ac button. any ideas here.
in the video doesnt appear how can you remove the gas inside the circuit, if you want to make it in your house and after go to a mechanic to reload the gas. either how to put again the belt with the tensor
i have pretty good intermittent cooling. But when I start the car, before the ac gets cold(it takes a long time to get cold) and ac running, I have a low side of 90 and a high side of 140-160. Do u think it's the valve?
HI, great video. I am unsure if this is my problem with my 2009 Tiguan 2.0 TDI, but I get about 90 psi on the low side (a bit lower when the compressor is not running) and 100 psi on the high side (again, a bit lower when the compressor is not running. Also, not cool air. Could this be the solenoid valve or the expansion valve? Thanks for the help.
I dont think they are serviceable. would cost more to do that then replace. THese guys have a good supplier in china. Well managed. I use their valves in all my cars
The HVAC control module controls the output of the solenoid via a PWM signal to it. It varies the output based upon a number of inputs such as outside temp, evap temp, engine temp, high and low side pressure, ect.
Did you not need to replace the drier for this install? I have a MK6 GTI and everyone is claiming the drier can't be exposed to air for more than a few seconds before it's saturated with ambient moisture. What's the solution/trick here?
Best practice would probably be to replace the drier, but in the real world 99% of the time it is not replaced every time you open the system. Just make sure to pull a nice long vacuum on the system once you are done this will remove the majority of the moisture stored in the drier and you will be good to go!
fan assembly will not come on when Freon is low. but this valve usually does not effect the fan activity. also there is a delay when you turn on your ac about say 10 seconds to 1 minute for the fans to turn on. I would replace the valve first I have done all my cars and it fixed most problems.
That kinda sounds like my vw jetta 2015, the a/c some times takes forever to turn on, some times when im in the highway it turns on and when i turn it off it makes this weird noise that comes from the compressor but the sound only comes on when they ac has been on for a while and i later turn off the ac, could this also be a valve problem?! If so im buying one of your website.
I have a question about unit check of the solenoid valve, such as internal resistance or etc... Could you let me know how to check the solenoid with symptoms. thanks.
Please answer.when you activate ac the compresor clutch activate?the colling fan is runnig?on my 407 the clutch is on but the colling fan not working.pls give me a answer.sorry for my english
With this style AC compressor there is no clutch. The input pulley is always turning. If the center of your compressor pully is stationary with the engine running this means that your compressor has locked up inside and the "brake away" tabs on the pulley are gone letting the pulley still spin. Any time your AC is on and running both cooling fans will turn on. If your AC is "on" but no cooling fans are on either you have 2 burned out cooling fans or the car is not allowing the AC system to activate because it has detected a fault somewhere.
We highly recommend having the AC system professionally recharged. These systems are quite small and over or under charging them even slightly can have a pretty big impact on performance. Typically you can not get enough accuracy out of a DIY can in our experience.
I have a built date 2009 AUdi TTRS with the 1K0820859R Sanden compressor. Do they still make reg valves for these models or should I just buy a new compressor unit?
The 1K0820859R compressor is the same one that is used in most VW 2.5L engines. The 1K0820859R is typically made by Sanden (you will want to verify by checking your compressor label before ordering) The valve in the video is the one you need! www.rkxtech.com/products/sanden-pxe16
Excellent video, thanks! My ac sometimes gets cold air and sometimes not, as the same commented in the video, but when I get some expressway, highway, the air seems to start to freeze, can this be the compressor solenoid valve? The low pressure is close to 50 and the high is very high. I have a Jetta 2007 2.5. Thankyou!
It defiantly sounds like a compressor valve. I would also check to make sure that both cooling fans are turning on. Both fans should run and never turn off with the AC on.
My 2002 vw beetle is doing the same thing going down the road it blows cold but when I stop HOT. I'm a single mother trying to fix my cat myself. Got the book. I need some advice bad
Where on the compressor is the label where we can see what brand it is? Is it viewable from up top or do we need to pull the plastic guard from the bottom to see it?
Kodi Polson yes I released all the Freon then you can reach under and get it out. Just move the fan blades around to give yourself room. Also my factor solenoid was able to come apart as it had a twist on fitting which is plastic. I used a 45Degree needle nose to grab onto the remainder of the solenoid and wiggled and yanked it out. It let off a little hiss and that was it. I cleaned the opening lubed the RKX Solenoid and worked it in to the compressor. Push it in real good and it may take a bit of playing around the but snap ring will go right in. Use a flat head screw driver to make sure it engaged in the groove of the compressor, plug in the solenoid again then have someone vacuum your ac system for 30 min. Then fill
I have to do my 2011 TDI this week. I scoped it out today. Did you do it from the top or did you remove the lower panel and do it from underneath the car?
Hi A Big Question !! Toyota nz15 engine 1500 cc is my car . Got the A/C issue so I am going to do the same as you told . Question is -> do I have to refill A/C gas after replacing the valve ( my current gas level is in 100% accurate level )
If you try to pull that valve out without evacuating your AC level completely, you could get really hurt, or blind, or sufficate.. if by some miracle you successfully got the valve out with pressure in the system, you will never get the new valve in.. you can NOT be lazy with pressurized systems whether It is hydraulic, coolant, gas, ANYTHING. just dump your system, its really high pressure. I promise you will regret it when your black and blue passed out under your car :/
I’ve watched about a dozen videos VW Jetta A/C troubleshooting. This video is hands down the best! The captions, the reading in the low side, removing the solenoid from the compressor. Very informative clearly understood. I’ll watch it again and again. Thumbs up!
Came to figure out how to fix my AC, stayed for the chill beats.
Pun intended? Lmao
This did the trick! VW mk6 variant 2012, 1,6 tdi 77 kw; first i thought there is not enough cooler fill (the car was able to blow cold air for like 10 seconds and after just blows hot air, in 30 C+), so i got it filled, nothing changed at all.
Then the mechanc said to change the compressor for $$$ so i reached out to this video and this did the trick so far, THANKS, for fraction of the price like 1/5.
The part number was - 5N0820803H - my clima control display unit says both AUTO and DUAL and the valve fitted the compressor just right.
This partnumber is for a whole A/C compressor. Du u have link for the solenoid? I have the same engine. Thanks mate
I saw this on a VW forum a few years ago on an old laptop; I bookmarked it and lost the laptop. Thanks for putting it out there, RKX. Summer is coming on in southern AZ where I live and I'll get his little widget!
IT gets HOT in Arizona, I live in Texas and only you guys (and Vegas)get hotter than us ...only by 2 or 3 degrees.
Just a PSA for those curious customers wondering if this is a sure fire fix. This is coming to you from an auto tech with 15+ years experience in the field. 7 of which were spent at a VW dealer. Presently, run my own German car repair center in the heartland of mandatory A/C: Miami, FL.
Firstly, you must get a competent MVAC shop to properly diagnose your system. Many things can cause poor cooling. Finally, if it is confirmed to be the solenoid, understand that this will not be a permanent fix. It will get you by, 6-8 months, maybe a year. The trouble is these valves fail due to debris circulating inside the system from compressor wear.
Not a knock on RKX, I have used a plethora of their products (vacuum pump reseal kits FTW). This is only a bandaid to buy you time. The long term, trouble free repair is to replace the compressor and drier/condenser assembly. (It is built in to the condenser.) What happens is as the compressor wears down, debris is pushed out the exhaust (high side), and finds its way inside this solenoid. With time, it just plugs up and seizes. The other issue is, as the compressor wears, it becomes less effective, so the solenoid is cycled more vigorously. This leads to premature wear of the armature inside the solenoid.
TLDR, if you are on a budget, and a professional confirms the valve is bad, replacing it will buy you sometime, but another failure is in the near future. Replacement of the compressor, and drier/condenser assembly will guarantee another 50-60k of trouble free miles from the new unit.
6-8 months in miami, that's like 2-3 years in Minnesota; I'll go with the valve. But I'm surprised to hear wear causes this as my 20-year-old Honda with 240k still blows cold air and the system has never been messed with. It must be the continual use of the A/C that my Louisana Jetta went through.
good info 👍
Wow only 50-60k Im starting to Hate my Vw
I have a 98 yukon with 280k Ac still works Ice cold
Works for sanden a/c compressor company ^^^^^
Just want to say thanks- I told a friend I was having ac issues and it would cost $1500.00 to replace. He sent me the link to this video. I bought the solenoid and had it installed by a local mechanic. It works great. total cost less than $200 installed. Awesome, thanks!
Do you have a Volkswagen Jetta and if so what year? I'm in the same boat right now, looking at $1300 to replace my AC compressor because it won't turn on
What kind of car do you have
Here’s a pro tip: you don’t need to do any of the following things recommended in the video:
Take off the tire
Move the wheel liner
Move the serpentine
Dismount the compressor.
Just take the vertical dog bone mount out and pull back on the engine with a ratchet strap between the block and the subframe. You’ll have plenty of room to get the valve in & out.
Genius!
I'm glad I read the comments. This will make it a hell of a lot faster
What’s about the gas frion? Do you need to take it out or you can still do with the system charged?
@nelsonm2697 the system must be evacuated or it will piss all over the place
You deserve the Noble Prize for work smarter not harder. You saved me a ton of effort!
Am an aircorndiction engineer and am very glad with u people the way you explain questions we ask congrats to bravoo
Isaac Mensah your last name means stupid in Spanish. And well, by your spelling, I can see that you live up to your last name.
@@virusboy07 yu r so meen sayin dat he stupeed and cunt spell.
Perfect solution to 2007 Rabbit... 4 yo compressor... would not blow cold at idle, only at highway speeds... replaced and did high side charge and COLD air at idle now! Thanks for your expertise!
Great wasn’t it? My 2006 gti ac now works super cold I use to have an 08 rabbit as well
Ordered this brand put it on the car and now my ac works as it’s supposed to
I did mine the other day for Mk6 Jetta. It fixed my problem. You may have to spray the area with penetrating oil and wait for a few min before trying to remove the valve since the o-ring and the grove get rusted and the plastic tab gets broken off if you try to pry it w/o the oil.
was it the sanden compressor?
Did you use a tool to vacuum the AC? Freon?
He is correct, i had the same problem as his video. you don't have to take down the belt and the compressor if you willing to manuver the 90 degree snap ring plier. this video is clear explanation and steps. very helpful. thank you.
Thanks for the input. Some models and engines have more room to work and can defiantly be done without removing the compressor with the right tools (the 2.0t Passat comes to mind). The TDI jetta in this video and some others have much less room to work in and its usually easier to just take a few minutes and drop the compressor down to gain some extra working space, but defiantly more than 1 way to do this job! Glad you got your AC back up and running.
What about the vw cc 3.6? will I have to remove the compressor?
bigleaper2 i have no experience with CC.
Do you have to take down the belt for a 2011 Vw golf 2.5 ?
@@emiliano7521 I do not know on 2.5L gas engine. Mine is 2.0 TDI diesel.
Far easier to pull the fan assy. Than to pull the compressor.
More room too!
Just a thought
Steve
I leave both in place when I do mine. dont even move the compressor fits through the fan hole
I might try the fan route, I moved the compressor to replace a belt tensioner and the bolts were very tough, thanks
My A/C compressor on VW Passat pressure valve failed at highway speed in fast lane and it's thick fog vapor suddenly obscured all sight screening up from windshield vent port. Be quick with the windows in volume traffic. I had no idea such sorcery was possible; it's a smooth blind blowout.
Just repaired my 2011 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI. Symptom was outlet temperature that would go down to 38 degrees and then would go up to 55 and then back down again. This progressively got worse and finally the temperature for the most part would stay in high 40's to 50. I was able to remove the old solenoid from underneath the car. I first brought the car to an auto shop and had the refrigerant evacuated. I then put the car on jack stands, removed the lower panel, and was able to access the compressor. The only difficulty I encountered was I needed a 90 degree snap ring tool which I bought for $24 at NAPA. After replacing the solenoid I had the auto shop vacuum the system and refill with refrigerant ($87). I also cut open the old solenoid to look for debris as mentioned by a shop owner below but did not find any. I suspect the solenoid simply no longer actuated as my car now has a constant 35 degrees coming from outlet.
Hey how is your car holding up? A/C still working? About to do this on my 2011 GTI
@@mozartsghost9271 Yes, gave the car to my son and he said ac still working fine. Good luck.
How to prove that the solenoid valve is not working , Being out there of the compressor, how can I test it?, tnks
This worked like a charm for me. Ac blowing 41-42 degrees for me. I wish I was at 38 degrees. Could be the $8 thermometer
Keep in mind with the variable compressor and ambient conditions this number will fluctuate anywhere from 34 all the way up to 50 in extreme heat / humidity conditions. 41-42 sounds perfectly normal for a lot of normal ambient conditions
Thank you for your valuable video.
Will freon gas leak when replacing the solenoid valve?
Is it necessary to extract freon gas before replacing the solenoid valve?
Please answer
Yea it blew up on me when I took off the o ring
Nice job
Remember when mechanics fixed things instead of just replacing unnecessary expensive parts? They usually don’t even get a cut from parts.
Oh yes. In some countries, you also have to get these valves shipped from the US, because parts stores only sell brand new compressors and nothing else, and dealer stores no longer have them once the car is old enough. I had to get mine shipped from the US.
yea parts stores sell new compressors, these guys reengineered the valves and sell them separately. I have their valves in all my tdis.
Siempre y cuando no haya partículas metálicas del compresor y además se recomienda cambiar deshidratador. Muy buen video 👍👍❤
Whats the likelihood of popping the solenoid out and using the extra room between fan blades to do it with compressor still in situ? Belly pan off, right angle circlip pliers etc
its sensitive to overfilling it, the temp will go up instead of down. I put 22 oz in it and it was blowing 50 degree air, after recovering a little refridgerant, it came right down to 40 degrees. 18oz is the spec.
525g I think is what is on the under hood label.
I can't get my 2013 vw beetle compressor to run and clutc&always turns how do I get compressor to run so I can fill it with freon .
Worth mentioning that some of these compressors have main shaft failure so a new valve won't solve that. Very important to check gas pressures and levels before making your diagnosis.
Seems to be very difficult to get these valves in the UK
Order one from the U. S.
I have 2012 vw passat se 2.5l and the AC works only when the car is moving and even then it is not cold enough. A lot of people are saying the problem is the valve. Is it true? And can you help me find the part number? VW has one for $250 but I think that is too much
great. needed check my system
great video and accompanying music. thanks
Jakie były objawy?
My compressor pulley spins but not the centre part, which according to previous comments means my compressor has seized. However I can rotate the central part (inside the pulley) by hand and it rotates fine. Also I can feel some resistance like it is actually turning the compressor, so seems like my compressor is not seized. Any advice on why the centre part doesn't spin but I can still spin it by hand? Could this be caused by the solenoid valve or not?
hi i have a question is this also a repair if ac wont give cold air when car has no movment or rpm with gas pedal, but when its on movment on 1500-2000rpm ??
I noticed in the comments quite a few people had certain questions. First off when the tech evacuated the system, he removed all refrigerant from the system and stored it in a holding tank on his machine. After the repair he pulled a "deep Vacuum". This should be done for at least 30 minutes and preferably 1 hour depending on relative humidity. The more humid it is, the longer you need to pull vacuum. Replacement of the receiver/drier is optional as long as the system isn't open to air for more than 10-15 minutes, again depending on relative humidity. Pull the valve out, install the new one and pull vacuum right away. This can also be done on other brands of VW compressors. As far as over engineering goes, would you rather replace the compressor? You should also make sure your clutch isn't damaged before you replace this valve. I have seen numerous clutches broken where people install the valve then wonder why it doesn't work. Make sure first.
Thanks for your clarification. So I'm assuming the solenoid can't be replaced without removing the freon? Meaning it's not something I can do on a ramp with just a couple of hand tools?
I've been struggling with very very similar problem with my Audi A3 2010 HVAC since it went for the 60k(I guess) km periodic service.
As soon as I took the car from the Audi dealership, grabbed the phone and called right away to say that was more than 30Cº outside and the car just did not cooled the cabin like before.
Just didn’t made cood as before and could not cooled me inside the cabin.
They regassed it, adjusted the vents, improved but was never like before.
I live in Southern Europe and in Summer I get 40Cº days and this car when was brand new refreshed the cabin in 2 minutes of A/C working.
Just from the start of the engine, even before it got to operating temperature, against what Audi technicians say (BS from them).
Can a bad service ruin the solenoid or compressor ?
I don’t know if this is my exact problem, but I should try it.
Do any of you have the same problme as me and solved it replacing this solenoid ?
PS :What makes me mad is that Audi technicians just don’t know how to diagnose this and they just replace the all compressor unit.
They should be the first ones to know what’s wrong with the car.
Thanks a lot you guys for letting this out to other people.
Hello mate, I'm having the same issues you are talking about on my 2008 passat. Did replacing the solenoid work for you? I was thinking to replace the compressor but I think of replacing just the solenoid first
@@Lexx1994 was not completely solved. I only replaced the solenoid but with no apparent improvement
@@Lexx1994 yeah maybe replacing the compressor as brute force solution should work for sure
Thanks for the video. Question, when you drain the freon, does it also drain the oil? Will it also need to be put PAG or R134A oil when re-filling?
When you evacuate the AC system you will lose some oil. If you have an AC machine it will usually have a bottle that it drains any oil it pulled out into so you know how much to put back in. If you use other methods of recovery you may have to guess, but usually adding 1/2 - 1 OZ of PAG oil will be just fine.
Golf mk6 aircon probs
@@ryanjacobson5694 This is why I had a professional technician purge/replace my refrigerant while upgrading the factory solenoid switch with the RKX Tech one. Because he did it with the proper equipment. I didn't have to worry about over or undercharging the refrigerant or replacing the correct amount of PAG oil. Spending the extra money to have it done this way is worth the peace of mind. My Sanden compressor works MUCH better now. It cools quicker and cooler. The compressor has 157K miles on it and it works flawlessly.
@@boomerguy9935 I totally agree with you., do it right the first time by a pro means never have to look back because it has been done right .
@@ryanjacobson5694 The other way to look at the failure of your AC is an opportunity to learn how to fix AC. This requires gauges, lots of reading, evac pumps and more but it's a skill u will retain for many more cars. The skill helps u avoid unscrupulous repairmen.
Great how too! Really appreciate it! Not to just suck it up and doo ett lol
There is an easy fix for the delay start ac, stops at idle, or low cooling. Remove the freon from the compressor, add approx 250 ml oil into the compressor, and than add the froen. The oil will lubricate the solenoid valve and ac will work perfectly fine. I have tried this method and well satisfied.
Compressors require a finite amount of oil and the only way to know how much is in there is to discharge the system, remove the compressor, drain the oil out of the compressor, and refill it with the specified amount. If u overfill it, the system won't cool properly. If u underfill it, the life of the compressor will be shortened.
The airco on my sons mk5 Golf does not work. Compressor spins and system has 525grams of filling inside. Both high and low pressure side have the same pressure. Between 2 and 3 bar's. Is it possible that it's just a defect valve?
He measured the signal on the connector of the valve so that's okay.
I see a lot of different valve's when i search on 'Golf mk5'. Different shapes (longe, short, wired connector, build in connector). Do they all fit or not?
Thanks ;-)
That is how my 2012 passat 2.5 behaved before replacing the solenoid with a RKX one , it was hot at idle and cold at high RPM. After replacing it , the behavior was reversed : it is blowing cold at idle , and hot at highway speed( at high RPM, the compressor discharge pressure goes down to almost zero psi). I wonder if i have to replace it again...
Nice video. I been diagnosing some problem with my cars AC to, Audi A3 3.2. When I drive the car it blows cold air but as soon as I come to a stop or the car is in idle, it just blows hot air.
Same with my 2009 Rabbit. When RPM's are high enough, such as highway driving, the A/C blows great but if I slow down in city driving the A/C starts to go out. I drive, my standard, delaying before shifting into higher gears so I can keep the RPM's higher and keep the A/C working and rev the engine at the red lights; very bad for gas mileage. So using the standard transmission I bring the engine to 3000 rpms by keeping transmission in lower gears.
This could possibly be a bad valve, but I would check your coolings fans first. With the AC on both cooling fans should be running and never turn off. After verifying the fans work I would check the freon charge level. After verifying both of those I would then suspect a bad valve.
I think this is a shop thing because of the refrigerant has to be removed/installed
Isn't there an ohm reading you can pull off the solenoid plug to know for sure if it's bad
Great Video. Wish this was the solution to my MKIV GOLF
was it?
Thanks you for your video, I'd like to know do I have to remove the gas before replace the solenoid
yes evacuate the system however it is legal to do so where you are located. High and low side
This was the replacement , but where is the diagnoises ?
I dont have to remove the belt or unbolt the compressor right ?
Gli_Fahrenheit if you can access it you can leave them on but remember it is longer than you think
Did you took the freon out before proceeding , removing the solenoid?
Or did you remove the solenoid without removing the freon ?
I have a 2012 VW Jetta 2.5 SE and my ac does have this issues where it give cold air then blow warm air hit within 5 or 10 min while driving , it annoying.
David Solis same here
He said he evacuated the system.
Yes, you have to completely evacuate the system before trying to remove the solenoid from the compressor. If you don't, you'll get a face of r134a instantly as the totality of the refrigerant escapes.
Es necesario sacar el gas antes de hacer el cambio ? Y de ser así cuánto gas lleva el compresor al rellenar ? Jetta mk6 2012
Como probar la válvula antes de montarla
what should the correct voltage be at the connector for proper operation? how about resistance of the valve itself?
True
Valves are normally PWM controlled, therefore it's not voltage but rather the PWM signal duty cycle that is relevant.
I purchased this from Amazon for my 2008 VW Passat VR6 4motion wagon......super easy to replace, appears to have done the trick....38$s from Amazon.
OK but what were your labor costs and was this done with AC drain equipment ?
@@DigitalDissident don't know about labor cost but It took me about a hour start to finish.... AC drain equipment? No.....face mask,open space ,2 lightly dampened towels and a screwdriver.
@@lenwoodcruze3594 Thanks for reply, what I meant was: did the refrigerant need to be vacuumed & recharged. It's been at least 1yr since I last had it working. Dealer quote was four figures for compressor swap but I wasn't dumb enough to do that on a car that already had 120k miles. I'm sure this will work for $34, - $280. Thanks
@@DigitalDissident
If your AC compressor uses this part I'd definitely try this first or you might just need a basic recharge...(prices vary soo much from place to place it's hard to say how much it will cost you)
Yes it should technically be vacuumed then recharged but if you're low on funds like me then......
Cut your car on with the AC running full blast at it's coldest setting,door or window open,get your facemask and towels,locate the port to refill your AC then press the valve (like you're letting air out of a tire).....have the port covered with your damp towels and let the old refrigerant out, most if not all will be captured by the towels......when it stops spraying then you'll know it's empty........cut your car off and replace the valve then recharge the system.
I went to Walmart and got the basic AC recharge kit but "AC Pro" which is more experience does work better because it has a higher pressure level.....I got the pressure level to almost 40psi which is in the middle and things are working great
If you are a environmentalist then I am soo sorry for not evacuating the refrigerant correctly but I did what I thought was beneficial for greatly limiting my negative environmental impact.....as far as I can tell most if not all refrigerant was captured by the towels.
Hello!
My Golf MK5 through VCDS and "hidden" Climatronic menu shows 9 to 12.5 bar pressure.
Is it ok?
What reading should I/do you get?
I also have a failing G89 sensor that shows 0°C in the first 10 minute fromo engine start and prevents the compressor engagement. To replace it I have to remove ALL the dashboard (including steering wheel, radio, glove box etc...!), I'll try it later in august.
I have "bad" air conditioning when the car slows down at the red light for example.
This background music is driving me Insane! sound just like a Minecraft Background music.
sound like replace VW AC valve inside Minecraft world
Thanks, that's a good video for getting to know this procedure. Now, where do I get me some right-angle circlip pliers?
from the ol' right angle circlip plier store.....:)
❤❤❤❤greetings for u from Iraq
Is this better than the solenoid from autozone for $90??
I did this easily without dropping compressor
Ive done this and both fans have stopped working. Can i get some advise
Sergio Pena I have the same issue did you ever figure out why ?
Great, it seems no oil comes out when you remove the valve, whatever pools in the crankcase is in a lower level. Going to replace one on a Delphi CVC.
sometimes a little comes out but not enough to worry about.
Will gas go out when replacing this part?
Yes
Can i know what are the tools used? Especially to undo the compressor belt n tensioner?
sir i am change the value but in starting this was running but after half hour compressor does not running. pls suggest what we do??
not understanding what you are saying. Is the compressor locked up...or is it not getting cold anymore. If it is not getting cold it may be there is a leak. THey are hard to diagnosis. On one of my cars I still ended up replacing the compressor and some Orings that were leaking. Uusally this valve fixes most problems at least for me.
Can you put something on the outside of the valve so it doesn’t?
does that valve stop the compressor from cycling, letting freon flow when compressor is over charged ?
Yes, if the pressure switch senses too high of a pressure, different things may happen. AC may also go in recirculation+minimum blower fan speed to keep the heat load low but still allow minimal AC. Failing this, the valve might stop the refrigerant flow completely, that is, let it circulate only within the compressor casing and not pump anything through the system at all. The control valve of a clutchless compressor is able to work just like a clutch, otherwise you would basically have AC always turned on in your car, in order to prevent the evaporator from freezing.
Need help with my ac I replaced the high pressure sensor g65 but still no aircon
i have the 2006 jetta tdi. the ac started blowing warmish about a week ago. i thought maybe it just need a slight charge, but then figured out the fans aren't turning on as they should. would a bad valve cause the system to not turn the fans on or would something else have went bad. i checked the fuse box in the engine but have no idea what one in the panel in the dash side is for the ac. a cooling fan does kick on when the engine gets hot like normal, just not when i hit the ac button. any ideas here.
TOBY BENNINGHOFF did you ever figure this out?
PWM signal or duty cycle value during idle at soliniod should be?
in the video doesnt appear how can you remove the gas inside the circuit, if you want to make it in your house and after go to a mechanic to reload the gas.
either how to put again the belt with the tensor
i have pretty good intermittent cooling. But when I start the car, before the ac gets cold(it takes a long time to get cold) and ac running, I have a low side of 90 and a high side of 140-160. Do u think it's the valve?
The vediois very beautiful and very educational but what exact car is he working would more good and will give more confidence
Please make a video Hyundai 2016 module compressor sensor replacement please sir
i have a cc 2012 that i want to change this my self but do i have to take the freon out? what happens if i just take the selenoid out ?
kevin martinez I took out & shot out
My wife thought I was watching a porno with this music
hi i have like this copressor have valve put may car in highways good put in stopping not cool did you think valve problem ?
HI, great video. I am unsure if this is my problem with my 2009 Tiguan 2.0 TDI, but I get about 90 psi on the low side (a bit lower when the compressor is not running) and 100 psi on the high side (again, a bit lower when the compressor is not running. Also, not cool air. Could this be the solenoid valve or the expansion valve? Thanks for the help.
François TERRILLON hi mate, did manage to fix your Tiguan. I have same problem
this music makes the video.
Seems these control valves can be troublesome! What are the causes of their failing?
a good video thanks
Do you guys just refurbish oem valves? If so i would like to know exactly what you replace in the valve.
I dont think they are serviceable. would cost more to do that then replace. THese guys have a good supplier in china. Well managed. I use their valves in all my cars
Hello, I have a Jetta tsi 1.4L 2016, which ac compressor solenoid valve should I purchase?
Dame valve fits on audiq5 2010? The ac works but when starts sounds like a second engine :/
Where do you guys get this PX designation? My Sanden is Model 1602 but seems like it should be the PXE16.
Very help full video I like it
I have this on my Sanden compressor and I understand how the volume is variable. But what controls the solenoid? Is it the heater fan speed?
The HVAC control module controls the output of the solenoid via a PWM signal to it. It varies the output based upon a number of inputs such as outside temp, evap temp, engine temp, high and low side pressure, ect.
Did you not need to replace the drier for this install? I have a MK6 GTI and everyone is claiming the drier can't be exposed to air for more than a few seconds before it's saturated with ambient moisture. What's the solution/trick here?
Best practice would probably be to replace the drier, but in the real world 99% of the time it is not replaced every time you open the system. Just make sure to pull a nice long vacuum on the system once you are done this will remove the majority of the moisture stored in the drier and you will be good to go!
Interesting thanks 👍
Turns out I need a EV 019 control valve
can you confirm that the EV 019 and the PXE16 valves are the same?
Does any one know if this has anything do with controlling when the fan assemly coming on?
fan assembly will not come on when Freon is low. but this valve usually does not effect the fan activity. also there is a delay when you turn on your ac about say 10 seconds to 1 minute for the fans to turn on. I would replace the valve first I have done all my cars and it fixed most problems.
Thanks for the video .. .just the music was creepy. :) ...
That kinda sounds like my vw jetta 2015, the a/c some times takes forever to turn on, some times when im in the highway it turns on and when i turn it off it makes this weird noise that comes from the compressor but the sound only comes on when they ac has been on for a while and i later turn off the ac, could this also be a valve problem?! If so im buying one of your website.
Hey! I have the same problem. Ik the comment is 3 years old but can you tell me how did it go?
@@brandenishiyama6793 were you able to find a fix?
Do I have to replace anything on the compressor, or all?
Can someone summarise the steps, I keep falling asleep half way thru. How does the solenoid go bad and how is the new solenoid better.
I have a question about unit check of the solenoid valve, such as internal resistance or etc... Could you let me know how to check the solenoid with symptoms. thanks.
Check is done by backprobing the PWM signal at the valve and checking for refrigerant line pressure variations with respect to the PWM signal.
Please answer.when you activate ac the compresor clutch activate?the colling fan is runnig?on my 407 the clutch is on but the colling fan not working.pls give me a answer.sorry for my english
With this style AC compressor there is no clutch. The input pulley is always turning. If the center of your compressor pully is stationary with the engine running this means that your compressor has locked up inside and the "brake away" tabs on the pulley are gone letting the pulley still spin. Any time your AC is on and running both cooling fans will turn on. If your AC is "on" but no cooling fans are on either you have 2 burned out cooling fans or the car is not allowing the AC system to activate because it has detected a fault somewhere.
Awesome, thankyou:)
After I replace the solenoid do I just add 2-3 bottles of refrigerant?
We highly recommend having the AC system professionally recharged. These systems are quite small and over or under charging them even slightly can have a pretty big impact on performance. Typically you can not get enough accuracy out of a DIY can in our experience.
I have a built date 2009 AUdi TTRS with the 1K0820859R Sanden compressor. Do they still make reg valves for these models or should I just buy a new compressor unit?
The 1K0820859R compressor is the same one that is used in most VW 2.5L engines. The 1K0820859R is typically made by Sanden (you will want to verify by checking your compressor label before ordering) The valve in the video is the one you need! www.rkxtech.com/products/sanden-pxe16
Excellent video, thanks! My ac sometimes gets cold air and sometimes not, as the same commented in the video, but when I get some expressway, highway, the air seems to start to freeze, can this be the compressor solenoid valve? The low pressure is close to 50 and the high is very high. I have a Jetta 2007 2.5. Thankyou!
It defiantly sounds like a compressor valve. I would also check to make sure that both cooling fans are turning on. Both fans should run and never turn off with the AC on.
RKXTECH.com thank you! Do you know the model for Jetta wolfsburg 2.5 2007? PXE16PXE14?
You need to visually check your compressor to be 100% sure, but we have ever seen a 2.5L AC compressor that was not a sanden PXE16
My 2002 vw beetle is doing the same thing going down the road it blows cold but when I stop HOT. I'm a single mother trying to fix my cat myself. Got the book. I need some advice bad
Where on the compressor is the label where we can see what brand it is? Is it viewable from up top or do we need to pull the plastic guard from the bottom to see it?
Compressor trip which problem vento
It can be done without removing the compressor. Just did mine in a 2012 Golf TDI. Took 45 minutes
Alfredo Valentine did you have to purge the system first ?
Kodi Polson yes I released all the Freon then you can reach under and get it out. Just move the fan blades around to give yourself room. Also my factor solenoid was able to come apart as it had a twist on fitting which is plastic. I used a 45Degree needle nose to grab onto the remainder of the solenoid and wiggled and yanked it out. It let off a little hiss and that was it. I cleaned the opening lubed the RKX Solenoid and worked it in to the compressor. Push it in real good and it may take a bit of playing around the but snap ring will go right in. Use a flat head screw driver to make sure it engaged in the groove of the compressor, plug in the solenoid again then have someone vacuum your ac system for 30 min. Then fill
I have to do my 2011 TDI this week. I scoped it out today. Did you do it from the top or did you remove the lower panel and do it from underneath the car?
Dave Vangel I did it all from the bottom. Use jackstands and be safe under there
@@alfredovalentine3282 Finished today on my TDI Sportwagen. Went underneath as you suggested with jack stands. Nice steady 35 degrees afterward!
Will this work for a 2012 Passat with a 2.5 engine?
that;s the same I have...valve fit but still AC not cooling
Hi A Big Question !!
Toyota nz15 engine 1500 cc is my car . Got the A/C issue so I am going to do the same as you told .
Question is -> do I have to refill A/C gas after replacing the valve ( my current gas level is in 100% accurate level )
u will have to gas up the car back
If you try to pull that valve out without evacuating your AC level completely, you could get really hurt, or blind, or sufficate.. if by some miracle you successfully got the valve out with pressure in the system, you will never get the new valve in.. you can NOT be lazy with pressurized systems whether It is hydraulic, coolant, gas, ANYTHING. just dump your system, its really high pressure. I promise you will regret it when your black and blue passed out under your car :/