Thank you for the videos,I have learned a lot with them,I have a GLK 350,I put a new pressure switch,new compressor control valve and it is getting the signal to the compressor,however it still not getting cold,also it seems that if I try to charge freon it wont take it,what else can I check ?
Thanks for taking the time to describe the operation of the solenoid… I’m playing around with running this alongside a 12V compressor too in parallel and having troubling a check valve that fits these fittings. Do you know if backflow between these style of compressors would be an issue? Any ideas on getting a check valve in the loop after each compressor as far as fittings?
Good informative videos. I am not working but try to learn when it happened with own car such issue. Asking what is between swap plate and gas pressure from solenoid? Is it any plunger role between?
Great info video about the clutchless compressor. My hyundai sonata 2012 ac sometimes work great and sometimes it doesn't kick in especially after parked for few hrs in hot weather but after driving for ten fifteen min. the ac again starts working. Can you please advise what can be the cause and what should I check and how?
The views are two way traffic, the question is, what is my cut helping you to solve your personalized question outside the context of the free video? 0
Hello Dr. Cool. Apreciate your videos. But a have a bit of a weird problem. Renault Clio 4 year 2014, has both a clutch and a solenoid. The clutch engages the second i press on the AC. The pressures on the gauges are ok (readings taken when the clutch is engaged), about 30-40 on low side and 150-200 on the high side at an ambient temperature of aprox 26-27 degrees Celsius. The compressor cycles normally, i think, it stays on aprox 40 seconds and disengages the clutch for aprox 8-10 seconds and so on. But the weird thing is that, suddenly, it is not blowing cold anymore in the cabin. It doesn't matter if the car is idling or not, so it's not about the speed of the compressor shaft. I turn off the AC form the button, i let it a bit to rest, then i turn it on again and it starts blowing cool air again and so on. On the Thinkdriver scanner i have also a fault code that says something like "compressor capacity control circuit, open circuit or short circuit to earth". The car has manual controls for the AC, with the exception of the recirculation blend-dor, with it is commanded by button, so it is motorized. Now, the weird thing is that this problem it is happening random, blowing warm then blowing cold. It could be that not all the moisture was evacuated from the AC circuit and when a drop of watter freezes it blocks the expansion valve or it is more lickelly that it is a problem with the solenoid valve?
@@drcoolautofix so first I was thinking do to a proper recharge of the system, with pulling vacuum the right way. Because the car is one from my job place, it is not mine, I only work with it for about 3 months now and I do not know her history of maintenance. What I do know is that it has the right amount of refrigerant because I went to a shop and they top it off but without pulling a vacuum. After that I was thinking to use the magnet trick on the solenoid valve and see if it improves the cooling. And it that test is positive then I will replace that valve.
Dr. qestion share with class the five pistons operation... looking at the pistons size there different... please do a video explaining the position of the pistons between full compression and discharge...in other words which pistons do the suction and which piston do the discharge...am watching from Jamaica...
great video this really helps explain things better. I just still am not sure on my a/c and how it works though. 2012 kia optima. I heard it is clutchless. I know for fact it is variable displacement but not sure if it is clutchless or not. I think it is clutchless....I just wish there was an exact test to do to test whether it is the compressor itself that is worn or the solenoid valve that is worn. i don't want to spend $300 and the time of replacing compressor when it is just $50 solenoid valve...
Hello. Thanks for the explanation. But the selenoid valve on my cars compressor doesn't have electrical socket (the black part) like on yours. And the only connector coming to the compressor is connected only to magnetic clutch, Any clue?
nice video. Very informative. I am having a problem with my car compressor. When i give it full throttle it some times enables the compressor? I was wondering if it was a faulty solenoid valve. I connected my car with ODB and tested. The results were all sensors were working fine. What do you suggest? will changing just the solenoid valve will help?
@@drcoolautofix will do that and update ya.. Thanks buddy. :) you mean using direct oscilloscope to check if the current drops on solenoid coil or not?
Yes or graph the solenoid through live stream data & monitor the activity of the power going into that solenoid control valve & other sensors, check for dtc codes too
The solenoid is a pneumatic valve, but what is it actuating? Where is the pressure being sent to to change the angle on the swash plate? One of the pistons?
It is the pressure of the refrigerant itself that pushes the plate at a certain angle. And that pressure increases the more refrigerant enters the compressor. And the amount of refrigerant that is allowed in is dictated by the level of opening of the solenoid.
I was thinking that my failed solenoid valve for Denso 5SER09C 447260-2334 A/C Compressor in the Toyota Yaris 2012 model would somehow destroy the ac compressor.
Hi good day how can a simple diagonse be done on a solenoid ac compressor to know if it is the solenoid itself at fault or the compressor?? Please let me know your help will be appreciated
Yes. If the solenoid opens and lets more refrigerant to enter then that pressure will push the plate at a certain angle. The more refrigerant enters the more stroke the pistons will have.
I am suspecting I have a bad solenoid valve in kia optima.. a/c low side pressure is high. A/c blows warm idle rpms...i rev 2500 rpms and it blows cold....does engine speed have any affect on this solenoid valve?
@@drcoolautofix how do you know if you have bad compressor vs bad solenoid without guessing? I don't want to pay to evacuate system and pull vaccuum and put a solenoid on there just to find out after that the compressor is no good and the solenoid did not fix my problem. How do I test to know for sure? I also don't want to replace entire compressor if all I needed was this inexpensive solenoid.
@@mikeberg8027 having the same dilema , can't figure out if to buy a new compressor or try the control valve. did you find a solution? my car is a Hyundai, they said there is no scan for AC issues and quoted me $245 to diagnose , crazy expensive. I can replace the compressor with a friend but hate to do all the work fro the valve and then redo it for the compressor if it doesn't work. trying to safe time and work . hope you can help. thanks
Hi just want to congratulate you on your video you nailed it. Keep up the great work and stay COOL. Many thanks
You answered all my questions. Thank you!
Thank you for the videos,I have learned a lot with them,I have a GLK 350,I put a new pressure switch,new compressor control valve and it is getting the signal to the compressor,however it still not getting cold,also it seems that if I try to charge freon it wont take it,what else can I check ?
👉ruclips.net/video/r2jqgAlXE8U/видео.html
Thank you for helpful information, can you explain more non-electric control valve works please?
helpful and informative. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for taking the time to describe the operation of the solenoid… I’m playing around with running this alongside a 12V compressor too in parallel and having troubling a check valve that fits these fittings. Do you know if backflow between these style of compressors would be an issue?
Any ideas on getting a check valve in the loop after each compressor as far as fittings?
I have no idea about what you are talking about
Good informative videos. I am not working but try to learn when it happened with own car such issue. Asking what is between swap plate and gas pressure from solenoid? Is it any plunger role between?
You will have to contact the manufacturer to get that information
Great info video about the clutchless compressor. My hyundai sonata 2012 ac sometimes work great and sometimes it doesn't kick in especially after parked for few hrs in hot weather but after driving for ten fifteen min. the ac again starts working. Can you please advise what can be the cause and what should I check and how?
The views are two way traffic, the question is, what is my cut helping you to solve your personalized question outside the context of the free video? 0
Hello Dr. Cool. Apreciate your videos.
But a have a bit of a weird problem. Renault Clio 4 year 2014, has both a clutch and a solenoid. The clutch engages the second i press on the AC. The pressures on the gauges are ok (readings taken when the clutch is engaged), about 30-40 on low side and 150-200 on the high side at an ambient temperature of aprox 26-27 degrees Celsius.
The compressor cycles normally, i think, it stays on aprox 40 seconds and disengages the clutch for aprox 8-10 seconds and so on.
But the weird thing is that, suddenly, it is not blowing cold anymore in the cabin. It doesn't matter if the car is idling or not, so it's not about the speed of the compressor shaft.
I turn off the AC form the button, i let it a bit to rest, then i turn it on again and it starts blowing cool air again and so on.
On the Thinkdriver scanner i have also a fault code that says something like "compressor capacity control circuit, open circuit or short circuit to earth". The car has manual controls for the AC, with the exception of the recirculation blend-dor, with it is commanded by button, so it is motorized.
Now, the weird thing is that this problem it is happening random, blowing warm then blowing cold.
It could be that not all the moisture was evacuated from the AC circuit and when a drop of watter freezes it blocks the expansion valve or it is more lickelly that it is a problem with the solenoid valve?
I can be a bit of both
@@drcoolautofix so first I was thinking do to a proper recharge of the system, with pulling vacuum the right way. Because the car is one from my job place, it is not mine, I only work with it for about 3 months now and I do not know her history of maintenance. What I do know is that it has the right amount of refrigerant because I went to a shop and they top it off but without pulling a vacuum.
After that I was thinking to use the magnet trick on the solenoid valve and see if it improves the cooling. And it that test is positive then I will replace that valve.
Very good video, Dr. Cool. What country do you work from?
Dr. qestion share with class the five pistons operation... looking at the pistons size there different... please do a video explaining the position of the pistons between full compression and discharge...in other words which pistons do the suction and which piston do the discharge...am watching from Jamaica...
I will do that only if 5k people are requesting for it. Else no way
Thank you for this video. You have a lot of informative videos thank you.
great video this really helps explain things better. I just still am not sure on my a/c and how it works though. 2012 kia optima. I heard it is clutchless. I know for fact it is variable displacement but not sure if it is clutchless or not. I think it is clutchless....I just wish there was an exact test to do to test whether it is the compressor itself that is worn or the solenoid valve that is worn. i don't want to spend $300 and the time of replacing compressor when it is just $50 solenoid valve...
Reach me with more details, 👉mrcoolautofix.blogspot.com/?m=1 i hate helping those who hate supporting me i hope you're not one of them?
Thank you for this explanation.Keep going forward.
Thank you very much for the detailed video.
Wow you explained it really well. Thanks
how about same compressor no clutch shaft is spining all the time if you get oil leak you can sized the shaft is that right ?thanks
Great video, hats off to you. Thank you 👍
Hello. Thanks for the explanation. But the selenoid valve on my cars compressor doesn't have electrical socket (the black part) like on yours. And the only connector coming to the compressor is connected only to magnetic clutch, Any clue?
That one have a different os
nice video. Very informative. I am having a problem with my car compressor. When i give it full throttle it some times enables the compressor? I was wondering if it was a faulty solenoid valve. I connected my car with ODB and tested. The results were all sensors were working fine.
What do you suggest? will changing just the solenoid valve will help?
What's your car make and model?
@@drcoolautofix its toyota corolla 2012
It's 80% likely, go ahead & graph your compressor solenoid and monitor it through live data, you should see it there, or scope it.
@@drcoolautofix will do that and update ya.. Thanks buddy. :) you mean using direct oscilloscope to check if the current drops on solenoid coil or not?
Yes or graph the solenoid through live stream data & monitor the activity of the power going into that solenoid control valve & other sensors, check for dtc codes too
Thanks sir for the vid....its help me a lot!!
The beginning of the video 😂😂
Nice information about such common issues
The solenoid is a pneumatic valve, but what is it actuating? Where is the pressure being sent to to change the angle on the swash plate? One of the pistons?
Refrigerant in the system
It is the pressure of the refrigerant itself that pushes the plate at a certain angle. And that pressure increases the more refrigerant enters the compressor. And the amount of refrigerant that is allowed in is dictated by the level of opening of the solenoid.
I was thinking that my failed solenoid valve for Denso 5SER09C 447260-2334 A/C Compressor in the Toyota Yaris 2012 model would somehow destroy the ac compressor.
Thank you for the explanation 🙏
My pleasure
I just love your doings bro
Hi good day how can a simple diagonse be done on a solenoid ac compressor to know if it is the solenoid itself at fault or the compressor?? Please let me know your help will be appreciated
Lol it seems like you dont want to share the info bro
I enjoy your Pro-Am
what causes the angle to increase? just simply more refrigerant increases the swash plate angle?
Yes. If the solenoid opens and lets more refrigerant to enter then that pressure will push the plate at a certain angle. The more refrigerant enters the more stroke the pistons will have.
Do we need to evacuate yhe freon first before we pull the solenoid out?
100% yes
What if I don't evacuate. Will it damaged the ac system? Thank you so much
Bomb
I am suspecting I have a bad solenoid valve in kia optima.. a/c low side pressure is high. A/c blows warm idle rpms...i rev 2500 rpms and it blows cold....does engine speed have any affect on this solenoid valve?
Watch this ruclips.net/video/lG-ZSJ4o_cw/видео.html it's Solenoid
I understand now how it's works Toyota RAV4 o6 have the same
Very helpful
very well done man!!
You just know your job😊
How do u know when it's bad??
Ac blows warm air
@@drcoolautofix how do you know if you have bad compressor vs bad solenoid without guessing? I don't want to pay to evacuate system and pull vaccuum and put a solenoid on there just to find out after that the compressor is no good and the solenoid did not fix my problem. How do I test to know for sure? I also don't want to replace entire compressor if all I needed was this inexpensive solenoid.
@@mikeberg8027 having the same dilema , can't figure out if to buy a new compressor or try the control valve. did you find a solution? my car is a Hyundai, they said there is no scan for AC issues and quoted me $245 to diagnose , crazy expensive. I can replace the compressor with a friend but hate to do all the work fro the valve and then redo it for the compressor if it doesn't work. trying to safe time and work . hope you can help. thanks
❤