This is one of the best and most informative videos about car repair that I have ever seen. If I have a comment it would be that you were more explicit about adding the indicator oil.
wow, this comment made my day. Thank you for taking the time to post a comment on this video. Sorry i didn't go into detail on the oil addition. i was having a bit of a tough time trying to get it loaded into the hose until i just poked a small hold in the seal of the oil and pushed it against the hose end and just forced it in there with the other side detached and it turned out i didn't have the camera on at the time. When i went to purge the hose once i had the R134A on it i ended up spraying a good bit of the oil all over the engine bay of the van haha. I totally should have put that in the video but i was embarrassed so i left it out but now that i have thought about it, my mistakes can help people in the future so i should have put it in as a "what not to do" type of thing. Cheers and i hope you have a great one!
2013 Toyota Sienna. Save so much money! I too went down the check list to confirm this is the issue. Compressor is working, no leaks, etc. Spot on with using the pics to remove the C-clip and then using the socket / bar to tap the solenoid back in flush. For me it cost $180 total. Did fine an Auto shop to remove and refill the same amount of Freon at no extra cost - 140. They were understanding and cool about my issue. Some other shops were not and gave quotes to diagnosed and then assume if the compressor needed to be replaced it would be around 1,000 to 1,500 here in Allen, Texas. Yes…I took a chance with Amazon at 40 bucks for the part but I got cool ass AC for the van. Thanks so much for your video and sacrificing your body. Hehe
That’s crazy that so many shops refuse to do the evacuation. Glad you were able to get your van AC working again. I’m sure you will be fine with the Amazon part. Cheers
Awesome. Did you have to evaporate the system before removing the AC control valve? I'm in Texas too, what shop did you find to remove and refill the freon for no extra cost? Thanks
@@Eternal2007I did have to have the system evacuated. I had it done at the auto hobby shop on the marine base at Quantico. All the local shops wouldn’t do it which was crazy to me
My ac control panel is dead. Did you guys also have that problem? At first it was just blowing warm air with the ac on then the controls quit coming on.
Cool to see you work on another vehicle! Obviously the Ranger is cooler but any info that can help people work on their own cars is always a good thing.
Yeah, i was hesitant to post this video to be honest because all of the subscribers came from Ranger Raptor videos, but when i actually got the AC working f or $90 instead of $2000+ i figured i had to post it in case it gets to just one person who can use it! Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated as always
My 2016 Hyundai Accent started blowing hot air after sitting for 16 days. My mechanic said the compressor was coming on and that I had no leaks. He told me it was the control valve, but he refused to replace it! I took it to another place that specializes in car AC and one mechanic there had never heard of a control valve while another denied that the compressor on my Hyundai even had one! I pulled up the part on a supplier's website and showed it to him. What idiots!
@@eflint1 that is insane that one shop told you what the problem was but then said they woudln't fix it, they probably wanted to charge you for a whole new compressor. and the idea that the second place didn't know what it was is crazy! Hopefully you are able to take care of it on your own with some time and a few parts from the local auto shop. Good luck
I’m grateful for so many DIY videos that have been made and have literally saved me $1,000’s. This video isn’t one of them. 30 minutes is about 25 minutes longer than it needs to be. Lastly, no, R134a (tetrafluoroethane) is not bad for the ozone layer. This guy isn’t as smart as he thinks he is. This is not the 1980’s AC.
‘it's illegal to release regulated refrigerants into the air, including R-134a, also known as Freon 134a. The Clean Air Act prohibits the intentional release of most refrigerants when disposing of appliances. This is because some refrigerants can remain in the atmosphere for decades and can be thousands of times worse for climate change than carbon dioxide. R-134a is a gas that traps heat in the atmosphere at 1,430 times the rate of carbon dioxide. It's part of a family of chemicals known as hydrofluorocarbons that are being phased out worldwide due to their climate impacts’ you are right, not bad for ozone but has impact on global warming and it is illegal, feel free to drain your oil down a storm drain while you vent your AC to atmosphere though. Maybe you aren’t as smart as you think.
I knew that thing had to be giving bad readings… I didn’t realize there was a difference but that makes a lot of sense. The AC is still blowing cold air so that was certainly the problem and I’m glad this video is useful for more than just the Sienna! Cheers
yeah, i may have sped through that when editing... sorry. I did do it and some R-134A and a bit of the oil die came out of the schradar valve and made an oily mess that i had to wipe up haha.
Hi hows the a/c , mine is blinking now ive tried to replace the control valve and so i though it was fixed but didn't so i bought new magnetic switch and it fixed it but now it very weak
It is similar to your van. I have a Toyota Sienna 2014. The left side air vents showed 60F and the left vents showed 45F. Please let me know how to fix it? The driver side is hot and the passenger side is extremely cold.
i didn't really think of that but it probably would have fit a little better. If i have to do it again i will go through the dealership for it for sure... great point!
@@eflint1 i went to O'Reilly Auto Parts and they actually had one in stock! the AC is still blowing cold a month later... i am still the hero in the family :)
This will be my next move. my AC blows very cold but only on the highway. once it sits in the hot sun, the AC starts to get warm. The condenser is fine, it has new fans. AC relay is good. manifold pressure shows good low side but the high side is not where it should be. I'll let you all know if this works =)
Based on the pressure readings when the compressor was running after a fresh recharge it indicated it was a compressor failure and after some research I found that this part was the weak link in the compressor so it was an inexpensive first step before taking it to a shop and spending $2000 for a whole new compressor. If this didn’t fix it I was going to take it back for a full evaluation.
Honestly if you have a 2011-2016 sienna with a *somewhat* failed AC (it runs, and the air is sorta cool) and you're confident that you dont have a gas leak, it's probably this. The mechanism inside collapses into itself. You can compare a new one with an old one, it's supposed to be sprung inside. The spring or its seat fails internally.
Really helpful. One question. When adding freon back are all valves open except for the high knob on next to the gauges? Both lows open and also the high down by the pipe?
When adding the Freon the only valve that is shut is the high pressure valve on the manifold itself. Both valves on the connectors to the lines on the vehicles schrader valves are open, the center valve connected to the Freon on the manifold and the low line valve on the manifold are open as well. Hope that is what you were asking and that I answered in a way that makes sense
I hope I get a reply on my issue. I have 2011 sienna limited the ac system work not as good as it should be in the front. and the rear ac does not work at all. I haven't checked anything yet will you able to give me an advice? " thanks in advance
there are a few servo motors that adjust the airflow in the system. One sends the air through the heater core for heat (not the issue here obviously) another adjusts it from the upper air vents to the lower and another opens and closes the ducting to send air to the rear of the vehicle. This sounds like a combination of problems to me. First, you may have low levels of refrigerant in your system, or the compressor control valve may be going bad (or a multitude of other AC system related problems, hard to tell without seeing it) along with either an electrical or mechanical failure on the vent servo motors. Sorry i cant be more help.
I’m trying to do this repair on my car and I can’t for the life of me get the valve to come out. I used a a/c manifold to let the refrigerant out…no pressure is showing on the gauges. I’ve removed the clip that holds the component in the compressor. I’ve used penetrator around the component, Used pliers on the housing with crazy force, and I still can’t get it out. HALP. What could I be doing wrong? Also, is there a chance not to break it by taking the wire housing off exposing the valve piece and using my pliers to pull it out?
Maybe I was lucky to get mind out but if it’s stuck it’s stuck. Other than tapping with a hammer and trying to pry it out I don’t know what to tell you. If you have the snap ring off and it isn’t coming out maybe try to pressurize the system to 5-10 psi and see if that helps get it out. I know others have had it corroded in the compressor and if that is the case you have a whole different problem. Good luck!
This is one of the best and most informative videos about car repair that I have ever seen. If I have a comment it would be that you were more explicit about adding the indicator oil.
wow, this comment made my day. Thank you for taking the time to post a comment on this video. Sorry i didn't go into detail on the oil addition. i was having a bit of a tough time trying to get it loaded into the hose until i just poked a small hold in the seal of the oil and pushed it against the hose end and just forced it in there with the other side detached and it turned out i didn't have the camera on at the time. When i went to purge the hose once i had the R134A on it i ended up spraying a good bit of the oil all over the engine bay of the van haha. I totally should have put that in the video but i was embarrassed so i left it out but now that i have thought about it, my mistakes can help people in the future so i should have put it in as a "what not to do" type of thing. Cheers and i hope you have a great one!
@@flaberdoopin Always happy to acknowledge those folks who so graciously help others. Keep safe
2013 Toyota Sienna. Save so much money! I too went down the check list to confirm this is the issue. Compressor is working, no leaks, etc. Spot on with using the pics to remove the C-clip and then using the socket / bar to tap the solenoid back in flush. For me it cost $180 total. Did fine an Auto shop to remove and refill the same amount of Freon at no extra cost - 140. They were understanding and cool about my issue. Some other shops were not and gave quotes to diagnosed and then assume if the compressor needed to be replaced it would be around 1,000 to 1,500 here in Allen, Texas. Yes…I took a chance with Amazon at 40 bucks for the part but I got cool ass AC for the van. Thanks so much for your video and sacrificing your body. Hehe
That’s crazy that so many shops refuse to do the evacuation. Glad you were able to get your van AC working again. I’m sure you will be fine with the Amazon part. Cheers
Awesome. Did you have to evaporate the system before removing the AC control valve? I'm in Texas too, what shop did you find to remove and refill the freon for no extra cost? Thanks
@@Eternal2007I did have to have the system evacuated. I had it done at the auto hobby shop on the marine base at Quantico. All the local shops wouldn’t do it which was crazy to me
My ac control panel is dead. Did you guys also have that problem? At first it was just blowing warm air with the ac on then the controls quit coming on.
Cool to see you work on another vehicle! Obviously the Ranger is cooler but any info that can help people work on their own cars is always a good thing.
Yeah, i was hesitant to post this video to be honest because all of the subscribers came from Ranger Raptor videos, but when i actually got the AC working f or $90 instead of $2000+ i figured i had to post it in case it gets to just one person who can use it! Thanks for the comment. Much appreciated as always
My 2016 Hyundai Accent started blowing hot air after sitting for 16 days. My mechanic said the compressor was coming on and that I had no leaks. He told me it was the control valve, but he refused to replace it! I took it to another place that specializes in car AC and one mechanic there had never heard of a control valve while another denied that the compressor on my Hyundai even had one! I pulled up the part on a supplier's website and showed it to him. What idiots!
@@eflint1 that is insane that one shop told you what the problem was but then said they woudln't fix it, they probably wanted to charge you for a whole new compressor. and the idea that the second place didn't know what it was is crazy! Hopefully you are able to take care of it on your own with some time and a few parts from the local auto shop. Good luck
Dude, I jumped when you released the ac valve and it came spewing out. 😂
Same! I thought it was totally evacuated
SAVED ME!! Thank you so much!! The folks that helped me never seen this either.
awesome... glad you were able to get it fixed without paying for a whole new compressor! Cheers
I’m grateful for so many DIY videos that have been made and have literally saved me $1,000’s. This video isn’t one of them. 30 minutes is about 25 minutes longer than it needs to be. Lastly, no, R134a (tetrafluoroethane) is not bad for the ozone layer. This guy isn’t as smart as he thinks he is. This is not the 1980’s AC.
Okay, thanks for stopping by. Don’t let the screen door hit ya where the good lord split ya
‘it's illegal to release regulated refrigerants into the air, including R-134a, also known as Freon 134a. The Clean Air Act prohibits the intentional release of most refrigerants when disposing of appliances. This is because some refrigerants can remain in the atmosphere for decades and can be thousands of times worse for climate change than carbon dioxide. R-134a is a gas that traps heat in the atmosphere at 1,430 times the rate of carbon dioxide. It's part of a family of chemicals known as hydrofluorocarbons that are being phased out worldwide due to their climate impacts’ you are right, not bad for ozone but has impact on global warming and it is illegal, feel free to drain your oil down a storm drain while you vent your AC to atmosphere though. Maybe you aren’t as smart as you think.
I don't think he ever claimed to be smart. He was very thorough is all..... for those who know nothing...😏🙄 Rude POS
Thank you, this is a huge help for my Camry. Small tip, the thermometer you were using is designed for internal temp of food, not air temp.
I knew that thing had to be giving bad readings… I didn’t realize there was a difference but that makes a lot of sense. The AC is still blowing cold air so that was certainly the problem and I’m glad this video is useful for more than just the Sienna! Cheers
well done sir
Thanks!
ND oil 8 is the type of oil, not that it needs 8oz. Other than that very helpful video, going to change the valve on my 07 yaris.
Thank you! I wasn’t sure about that because the oil bottle just said R134 oil, not any ND rating. Much appreciated!
@@flaberdoopin no problem. If ND8 oil can't be found the PAG equivalent seems to be PAG46, which is the one you used in the video :D.
I did not see you bleed the air out of line before opening low side to accept a charge ?
yeah, i may have sped through that when editing... sorry. I did do it and some R-134A and a bit of the oil die came out of the schradar valve and made an oily mess that i had to wipe up haha.
So what about the oil that leaked out of the compressor did you refill it off camera
Yes, I added some oil with UV dye in it… I thought I put that in the video but I must have cut it out if you didn’t see that. Cheers
Hi hows the a/c , mine is blinking now ive tried to replace the control valve and so i though it was fixed but didn't so i bought new magnetic switch and it fixed it but now it very weak
Interesting. It is still blowing nice and cold and it’s a good thing because we are mid heat wave here in DC
It is similar to your van. I have a Toyota Sienna 2014. The left side air vents showed 60F and the left vents showed 45F. Please let me know how to fix it? The driver side is hot and the passenger side is extremely cold.
It sounds like you have a blend door issue. It may be stuck open on the passenger side.
@@flaberdoopin, I looked at the blend door, which was open correctly when I adjusted the heat and air.
Should of used a Toyota OEM replacement part.otherwise great job!!
i didn't really think of that but it probably would have fit a little better. If i have to do it again i will go through the dealership for it for sure... great point!
Toyota does not sell that part, you have to buy the complete compressor
@@chicagoalmighty45th95😮 how did he get the part?
@@eflint1 i went to O'Reilly Auto Parts and they actually had one in stock! the AC is still blowing cold a month later... i am still the hero in the family :)
Not available separately through Toyota.
I'm trying to source a Denso valve, but no luck.
Thanks, 🙏 you save me a lot of money
Right on. Hope you got it fixed! Cheers
This will be my next move. my AC blows very cold but only on the highway. once it sits in the hot sun, the AC starts to get warm. The condenser is fine, it has new fans. AC relay is good. manifold pressure shows good low side but the high side is not where it should be. I'll let you all know if this works =)
Right on. I’m confident that this will fix it! Good luck
So how did you diagnose this part failure?
Based on the pressure readings when the compressor was running after a fresh recharge it indicated it was a compressor failure and after some research I found that this part was the weak link in the compressor so it was an inexpensive first step before taking it to a shop and spending $2000 for a whole new compressor. If this didn’t fix it I was going to take it back for a full evaluation.
@@flaberdoopin thanks! My wife has a 2014 sienna. We live in Arizona so far no AC problems, but any day now.
Honestly if you have a 2011-2016 sienna with a *somewhat* failed AC (it runs, and the air is sorta cool) and you're confident that you dont have a gas leak, it's probably this. The mechanism inside collapses into itself. You can compare a new one with an old one, it's supposed to be sprung inside. The spring or its seat fails internally.
Really helpful. One question. When adding freon back are all valves open except for the high knob on next to the gauges? Both lows open and also the high down by the pipe?
When adding the Freon the only valve that is shut is the high pressure valve on the manifold itself. Both valves on the connectors to the lines on the vehicles schrader valves are open, the center valve connected to the Freon on the manifold and the low line valve on the manifold are open as well. Hope that is what you were asking and that I answered in a way that makes sense
I reread your question after I already answered and you had it 100% correct the way you stated it
@@flaberdoopin Ok thanks so much. I was nervous about having one of the highs open when it shouldn't be and it makes sense now.
Question, why when I put the sienna for the part it says it doesn’t fit ? On oreilly
That is interesting. What year is your sienna?
@@flaberdoopin it’s a 2011
That is interesting. I would give them a call and have them search their systems for the part number you need.
I hope I get a reply on my issue.
I have 2011 sienna limited the ac system work not as good as it should be in the front.
and the rear ac does not work at all. I haven't checked anything yet
will you able to give me an advice? "
thanks in advance
there are a few servo motors that adjust the airflow in the system. One sends the air through the heater core for heat (not the issue here obviously) another adjusts it from the upper air vents to the lower and another opens and closes the ducting to send air to the rear of the vehicle. This sounds like a combination of problems to me. First, you may have low levels of refrigerant in your system, or the compressor control valve may be going bad (or a multitude of other AC system related problems, hard to tell without seeing it) along with either an electrical or mechanical failure on the vent servo motors. Sorry i cant be more help.
I’m trying to do this repair on my car and I can’t for the life of me get the valve to come out.
I used a a/c manifold to let the refrigerant out…no pressure is showing on the gauges.
I’ve removed the clip that holds the component in the compressor.
I’ve used penetrator around the component,
Used pliers on the housing with crazy force, and I still can’t get it out.
HALP. What could I be doing wrong? Also, is there a chance not to break it by taking the wire housing off exposing the valve piece and using my pliers to pull it out?
Maybe I was lucky to get mind out but if it’s stuck it’s stuck. Other than tapping with a hammer and trying to pry it out I don’t know what to tell you. If you have the snap ring off and it isn’t coming out maybe try to pressurize the system to 5-10 psi and see if that helps get it out. I know others have had it corroded in the compressor and if that is the case you have a whole different problem. Good luck!
how is it holding up so far ?
@@fk-28239 still blowing cold! No leaks that i could see with the UV dye