Man, you just saved me from ruining my rotors. I already chose (incorrectly) metal pads for my Shimano BR-M6000 calipers. Today, few hours before going to the store I stumbled upon your video. I cleaned my rotors and they say "Resin pads only" but this was completely covered by dust, never even noticed it. My calipers came with Shimano G02S resin pads (I checked and realized this only now, didn't need to touch the brakes for more than a year), now there's an upgraded model G03S, which is also resin but a little more durable. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, so I didn't end up buying the metal pads! :-)
Very informative video. Thank your for taking the time to put this together. The part about pushing out the rotors before replacing the pads was especially helpful. Now I know why I couldn't get my rotor (and wheel) into the brake. Thanks again.
Three tips: (1] I blow-torch my sintered pads every time they are out. (2) After degreasing the rotors with acetone, I perform a light sanding perpendicular to the rotational axis. Then I wipe the rotors with 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove metal fragments and oils that may have deposited. (3) Season the brakes after each cleaning with 6-10 graded power stops. This method seems to keep my brakes in tip-top form.
Great tips. Before pushing the pistons back it's better to clean around their edges or you'll push dirt back in and damage the seals. Also better to ensure both pistons are moving in unison by "exercising" them.
Good video demonstration with clear explanations.these are little jobs il look forward to attempting and my new bike has hydraulic breaks which is something I've never had.you can get so much info from youtube.👍🏻
Protip: Use two screwdrivers. One from top, the other from the bottom, touching each other in between the pistons. Push the screwdrivers forward into each other. it allows you to put linear pressure on the pistons.
I used one thin Allen key. You can insert it all the way between the pistons, but make sure that everything is symmetrical. And then push with both thumbs on the Allen key so it will push the brake piston back, but again, push and place your fingers symmetrically
Nice tips but one other mistake I learned from another video is to clean around the pistons before to push them inside. So if you have any mud or dirt around the piston, you won't put dust on the ring.
Thanks for a couple really good tips! One tip I have is if after finishing you now have rub on the pads, before adjusting the caliper mount, do the pad bedding process as this might fix the rub without moving the caliper.
thank you so much for sharing this information. i am new to the concept of disk brakes. i was assuming the brake pad material was a choice of quality, so i was going to buy any type this time, but steel pads the next time.
it same as on car : usuall organic pads for easy braking, semimetalic for higher temperature and ceramic pads for race but it does not work good when are coold
Had a issue with my shimano xt brakes. Couldn't get the pistons back far enough. Wound back all the level adjustment and the free play screw at the top. Got everything back together but when I applied the brakes oil came out from the lever. Luckily it was the pressure relief valve. Readjusted the the components and system operating correctly.
Very good video thank you. I might add that if too much force were used with the screw driver a person could bend the calliper mounts on the frame so just a note to only use a twisting action on the screw driver 😊just like you did good job
Are those Acera components? If so, I have a Tern Joe P27 (A 650B touring foldie) with the exact setup and moreover a coincidence that I need to replace my rear brake pads today. They're so worn down until I hear a metal-on-metal rubbing noise recently. I took out the pads and yikes!! Less than 0.2mm of pads left, it's almost stripped bare nearly touching the metal plates. Oddly the front pads are completely fine. Thanks for the video. I do not mind doing a mini-review of my bike someday for your Channel. :)
what if i'm not able to push back pistons even if i've opened the bleeding screw? do you have other suggestion more than open the entire caliper? for example using heat to let the housing of the pistons dilate?
Isn't it good practice to push out the pistons slightly and clean them before pushing them in else you could contaminate the seals which could cause leaks?
Great tips thank you. I would mention... Clean pistons *before* resetting/pushing back in. Otherwise you are pushing dirt into the seals of the pistons 👍
I've only ever heard of organic/resin pads and semi-metallic/metallic pads for bikes. I have ceramic pads for my car but who sells ceramic or kevlar (never heard of that for brakes) for bikes? @SickBiker
Yea, was good idea ti take a look at your vid, ife already overseen the print "RESIN ONLY"! On my motorbike i was able to chose organic, or metalic brake pads. This a comlete different story... Tank you! ;)
I got some additional Tipps and Information here: If you only touched the brakepads with your fingers, you should be ok by going on a flat, straight street and accelerating to a moderate speed. Then braking hard should be hot enough to heat up and burn the oil. You should have "normal working brakes" after 15-20 times repeating this. To clean the rotors you can put them in a bucket with a mixture of hot water and normal "dish cleaning soap", afterwards spray the rotors with something like "brake cleaner" and some minutes later use a paper towel to wipe if off again. From the moment on, when you move the rotor out of the complete brake, DON'T EVER PULL ON THE BRAKE LEVER, otherwise the pistons will come out and the "brake-system" will leak mineral oil. New brakepads always need some time until they have their maximum braking-power, so wait for them to reveal their normal power before hitting steeper descends!
This mistake happened to me while testing the other wheel wher I put the rotor back in and I accidently pulled on the lever of the wheel without the rotor. The pad and some oil came out. I managed to push the pad back in nicely however there is no pressure on the lever now. I hope replacing the oil will fix the issue.
Something to add: i also use some sand paper to remove a small layer from the disc pads. the results are really good. So you can clean your caliper and disc but the pads also retain some gunk. This is maybe why you recomend changing the pads before they run out? Try this methode maybe it will work and save you some money
Might be easier opening the bleed screw at the caliper end when pushing the pistons in, rather than messing about at the reservoir. Works for car brakes.
I remember when i used my pads so much that the braking surface seperated from the backplate, it flew straight out. Hope mini's, still on my bike today, never been re-blead and still works perfect!
My pistons are not resetting completely. I tried to do the trick with the bleeding port open. As I unscrew it that spill. Is it normal? I guess there is to much oil in it.
Better to clean the pistons before you push them back into the caliper bores, to cure existing sticky piston problem and avoid creating a new sticky piston problem. Also the best stuff for cleaning the rotor IMO is alcohol, either isopropyl or methanol used with a totally clean cloth or paper towel, good de-greasing with no residue left.
If the pads became contaminated from, say, lubricant picked up from the road, wouldn't working the pads with a #220 sand paper and alcohol deal with this issue effectively?
Dont do like I have done, ie keep the bike near the kitchen and the fat from the frying has contaminated the pads... new shimano xt pads in the gutter.... But the thing is, i have new pads(cheap ones) and have cleaned the disc but yet it does not brake as it should although the pressure is there so it does not feel like it needs a bleedeing.
9:30 yep exactly what happened to my front brake: pushed a lot the pistons, lost like 60% of the oil from the reservoir. but the question is: why you saying that the whole system is broken in that case?? isn't it enough to re-bleed it?
I leave both pads in when reseting the piston and with the old pads in place just tap with a hammer a screwdriber that is slightly too big between the pads. I never put a screwdriver or prising tool against the piston!
I didn't degrease the disc at all, works perfectly with my new brake pads. My bike is 2 years old and first time changing front pads only. Feels brand new!
Man, you just saved me from ruining my rotors. I already chose (incorrectly) metal pads for my Shimano BR-M6000 calipers. Today, few hours before going to the store I stumbled upon your video. I cleaned my rotors and they say "Resin pads only" but this was completely covered by dust, never even noticed it. My calipers came with Shimano G02S resin pads (I checked and realized this only now, didn't need to touch the brakes for more than a year), now there's an upgraded model G03S, which is also resin but a little more durable. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, so I didn't end up buying the metal pads! :-)
Very informative video. Thank your for taking the time to put this together. The part about pushing out the rotors before replacing the pads was especially helpful. Now I know why I couldn't get my rotor (and wheel) into the brake. Thanks again.
Three tips: (1] I blow-torch my sintered pads every time they are out.
(2) After degreasing the rotors with acetone, I perform a light sanding perpendicular to the rotational axis. Then I wipe the rotors with 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove metal fragments and oils that may have deposited.
(3) Season the brakes after each cleaning with 6-10 graded power stops.
This method seems to keep my brakes in tip-top form.
Thank you so much for this, it is really helpful. Very clear and easy to follow. The close-ups really help too!
Great tips. Before pushing the pistons back it's better to clean around their edges or you'll push dirt back in and damage the seals. Also better to ensure both pistons are moving in unison by "exercising" them.
Good video demonstration with clear explanations.these are little jobs il look forward to attempting and my new bike has hydraulic breaks which is something I've never had.you can get so much info from youtube.👍🏻
Thanks - removing the screw from the lever assembly is a confirmation I was looking for everywhere.
From hindsight it appears obvious, doesn't it?
Really good and informative tips, one of the best bike maintenance videos without a shadow of a doubt 👏🏽
Protip: Use two screwdrivers. One from top, the other from the bottom, touching each other in between the pistons. Push the screwdrivers forward into each other. it allows you to put linear pressure on the pistons.
I used one thin Allen key. You can insert it all the way between the pistons, but make sure that everything is symmetrical. And then push with both thumbs on the Allen key so it will push the brake piston back, but again, push and place your fingers symmetrically
@@ClaudiuB 👍 I was wondering if I even had two screw drivers.
You remind me of wrooongway
Best bike mechanics video i've ever seen. Thank you!
Excellent video. Clear and concise. Thanks very much!!!
Nice tips but one other mistake I learned from another video is to clean around the pistons before to push them inside. So if you have any mud or dirt around the piston, you won't put dust on the ring.
Thank you for such an informative video. I feel much more confident changing my pads now. 🙏👍
Thanks for a couple really good tips! One tip I have is if after finishing you now have rub on the pads, before adjusting the caliper mount, do the pad bedding process as this might fix the rub without moving the caliper.
That was excellent. Very detailed and I need to do it. Thanks.
thx for your video - learned how to spread the pistons using the old pads - v successful result - much appreciated
Excellent video
...good camera work , thoroughly explaining step by step
...well done indeedy!
Amazing video . Very professional and well details about possible mistakes . Thank you 🙏😜👍
Most useful brake pad video I have seen so far. Thank you
Watch the ones by park tools much better.
thank you so much for sharing this information. i am new to the concept of disk brakes. i was assuming the brake pad material was a choice of quality, so i was going to buy any type this time, but steel pads the next time.
it same as on car : usuall organic pads for easy braking, semimetalic for higher temperature and ceramic pads for race but it does not work good when are coold
Great tips, learnt some great points, even though been doing it for years!
I know this is old but it's still helpful. If you've used ceramic pads, how do you like them? where do the fit between resin-metal? Pros/cons?
finally some very good video with great explanation!
Had a issue with my shimano xt brakes. Couldn't get the pistons back far enough. Wound back all the level adjustment and the free play screw at the top. Got everything back together but when I applied the brakes oil came out from the lever. Luckily it was the pressure relief valve. Readjusted the the components and system operating correctly.
#1 1:37 - Sintered pads on Resin-only rotors
#2 4:30 - Contaminated pads
#3 6:34 - Using force when resetting pistons
#4 11:46 - Contaminating rotors on reinstallation
You're welcome.
sintered an resin are the same thing. be worthless with somebody else's eyesight.
Thanks
Thanks bro!
@@jim5256 sintered = metalic versus resin = organic
THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌
Excellent and highly knowledgeable presentation.
Very good video thank you. I might add that if too much force were used with the screw driver a person could bend the calliper mounts on the frame so just a note to only use a twisting action on the screw driver 😊just like you did good job
Are those Acera components? If so, I have a Tern Joe P27 (A 650B touring foldie) with the exact setup and moreover a coincidence that I need to replace my rear brake pads today. They're so worn down until I hear a metal-on-metal rubbing noise recently. I took out the pads and yikes!! Less than 0.2mm of pads left, it's almost stripped bare nearly touching the metal plates. Oddly the front pads are completely fine. Thanks for the video. I do not mind doing a mini-review of my bike someday for your Channel. :)
Glad to see my country Malaysia on the disc.. factory is in my home country, but its super hard to find a original pads for bicycle.. i wonder why.
Because none cares about Malaysia. Especially Shimano. They use your country only as cheap work force.
Your videos are very helpful thank you,
what if i'm not able to push back pistons even if i've opened the bleeding screw? do you have other suggestion more than open the entire caliper? for example using heat to let the housing of the pistons dilate?
Thank you so much, this video is very much helpful for me,.. now i can do it on my own .
If you have a minimum 180mm rotor mount, could you use a (160 to 180mm) adapter to install a 203mm rotor?
hi, my friend is using shimano altus br-m365 brake setup and he is wondering are G01A pads compatible with his brake set?
Hi, i would like to know is it normal that rear brake pad is closer to the rotor compared to the front? I am using ultegra hydraulic disc brake.
Thanks for this video. It's very clarifying!!!
Excellent video, very helpful, thanks so much
Isn't it good practice to push out the pistons slightly and clean them before pushing them in else you could contaminate the seals which could cause leaks?
How do I find the right ones, need a new brake pad spring I have a Grail 8
Great tip, really helped me out!
Great tips thank you. I would mention... Clean pistons *before* resetting/pushing back in. Otherwise you are pushing dirt into the seals of the pistons 👍
Thanks for the #3. Helps me a lot
Brilliant video and well explained thank you
Thank you, really appreciated
I've only ever heard of organic/resin pads and semi-metallic/metallic pads for bikes. I have ceramic pads for my car but who sells ceramic or kevlar (never heard of that for brakes) for bikes? @SickBiker
How about resetting the pads before changing them? That way you'll scratch the old pads with the screwdriver and not the new ones.
He did that
Great idea
@@usaisamess8880 you're right, not sure why I thought he did it after replacement 🤔🤦🏻♂️
Great video, thank you
Yea, was good idea ti take a look at your vid, ife already overseen the print "RESIN ONLY"!
On my motorbike i was able to chose organic, or metalic brake pads. This a comlete different
story... Tank you! ;)
thankyou , i have been looking for this video. my disc brakes also have a pin rather than a screw.
but can u use the same looking pad but its a bit smaller than the recommended?
What do i do if the braking pistons were forced back into position? I lost a ton of fluid from one side and now.Cannot use the brake
Can you clean the brakes with brake cleaner which we use for cars?
Anyone know what works with Shimano BL MT200? I can’t find them anywhere yet
I got some additional Tipps and Information here:
If you only touched the brakepads with your fingers, you should be ok by going on a flat, straight street and accelerating to a moderate speed. Then braking hard should be hot enough to heat up and burn the oil. You should have "normal working brakes" after 15-20 times repeating this.
To clean the rotors you can put them in a bucket with a mixture of hot water and normal "dish cleaning soap", afterwards spray the rotors with something like "brake cleaner" and some minutes later use a paper towel to wipe if off again.
From the moment on, when you move the rotor out of the complete brake, DON'T EVER PULL ON THE BRAKE LEVER, otherwise the pistons will come out and the "brake-system" will leak mineral oil.
New brakepads always need some time until they have their maximum braking-power, so wait for them to reveal their normal power before hitting steeper descends!
This mistake happened to me while testing the other wheel wher I put the rotor back in and I accidently pulled on the lever of the wheel without the rotor. The pad and some oil came out. I managed to push the pad back in nicely however there is no pressure on the lever now. I hope replacing the oil will fix the issue.
@@vik6885 Actually just bleeding your brake should be enough to fix it, I think GMBN also have Videos about doing that!👍
excellent how to do disc brakes video
What if you experience burning in the brake pads ? Can that mess up the calipers for both front and rear rotors ?
great video. very clear
Good and informative.... Thank you.
@1:14 this will work with my model? i dont think the shimano "g-type" brake pads will work with the m425...
Useful video , thank you.
Something to add: i also use some sand paper to remove a small layer from the disc pads. the results are really good. So you can clean your caliper and disc but the pads also retain some gunk. This is maybe why you recomend changing the pads before they run out? Try this methode maybe it will work and save you some money
Radu Teodor Stoian use 400 grit only!!!
also you can heat them with a blow torch to 'sweat' the crap/oils out of the material.
Great video with the detail resetting pistons.
I used force to reset piston what should I do. Did I damage my brake
very helpful Thankq
Do i have to remove the wheel or can i just remove the calipers instead??
Thank you for the video. On point and just what I needed to install my brake pads!
I keep a bag of tongue depressors around , good for pressing pistons , an cleaning , getting into tight spaces .
They are soft , yet rigid
Plastic tire levers work well too.
Might be easier opening the bleed screw at the caliper end when pushing the pistons in, rather than messing about at the reservoir. Works for car brakes.
Safer too...especially sram.
I remember when i used my pads so much that the braking surface seperated from the backplate, it flew straight out. Hope mini's, still on my bike today, never been re-blead and still works perfect!
Changed mine today, but my front brake lever is solid when braking but my back brake lever is spongy but works 🤷♂️🤷♂️ what do you think
Very good video thanks for that
My pistons are not resetting completely. I tried to do the trick with the bleeding port open. As I unscrew it that spill. Is it normal? I guess there is to much oil in it.
If you degrease your pistons in caliper, they will be oxidized in feature. You should use some silicon lube on pistons.
So could you use muc-off silicone shine?
Well done, thank you
Better to clean the pistons before you push them back into the caliper bores, to cure existing sticky piston problem and avoid creating a new sticky piston problem. Also the best stuff for cleaning the rotor IMO is alcohol, either isopropyl or methanol used with a totally clean cloth or paper towel, good de-greasing with no residue left.
Great advice Sir. :)
love from Malaysia 🇲🇾
Jauh naw travel
🇲🇾
Great video
If the pads became contaminated from, say, lubricant picked up from the road, wouldn't working the pads with a #220 sand paper and alcohol deal with this issue effectively?
Use plastic tire levers instead of screwdrivers.
Doesn’t matter if you’re pushing back pads that are due for replacement …
Super useful video.
Good video my friend👍
Help me ? Any time i pull my rear brakes it gives me an annoying noise like scratching not squealing
عالم الأفرشة المنزليةclean your pads and disc with dish soap, then sand them with 400 grit sandpaper.
why are my brake levers going too long until the brake will action?
after putting the new pads , do I need to do something more special to do on the first ride
New bike, new brake pads, new rotors. Does it need more fluid if the throw is too low when braking?
I change my pads, but i still have very loud noise when i brake!!! what should i do?
do you not add some copper grease to the back of the pad?
why, to reduce drag of braking?, joke, it is used on cars, not need on bikes
Nice middrive motor!
As a hayes owner your system looks so difficult ant frustrating! :p
I put new pads but when i ride bike then brake does not work properly.can you tell me why.
How to adjust brake bite, I replace pads now there is no travel on a brake levers
How about to clean the pistons? Doesn't matter that you reset the pistons if the pistons doesn't move evenly because of dirt n stuff.
Dont do like I have done, ie keep the bike near the kitchen and the fat from the frying has contaminated the pads... new shimano xt pads in the gutter.... But the thing is, i have new pads(cheap ones) and have cleaned the disc but yet it does not brake as it should although the pressure is there so it does not feel like it needs a bleedeing.
What causes front brake rub when turning left?
Most likely a problem with your wheel bearings ( too loose).
9:30 yep exactly what happened to my front brake: pushed a lot the pistons, lost like 60% of the oil from the reservoir. but the question is: why you saying that the whole system is broken in that case?? isn't it enough to re-bleed it?
ok got it, thanks
I leave both pads in when reseting the piston and with the old pads in place just tap with a hammer a screwdriber that is slightly too big between the pads. I never put a screwdriver or prising tool against the piston!
Indeed. I wince when I see people jamming all sorts of objects into the caliper and up against the rotor.
Thanks saved me 2 mistakes
I didn't degrease the disc at all, works perfectly with my new brake pads. My bike is 2 years old and first time changing front pads only. Feels brand new!
Yes open the hydraulic system well done even more so with 4pot brakes