Love this video. Some rotor cleaning vids border on black magic and incantations. There is no mystery. We cleaning metal using solvents to get all the grease off. The sandpaper cleans and smooths. Good old alcohol and acetone is all you need. Great stuff.
I'm taking delivery of my first bike with disc breaks this Saturday. Now I have a list of products to get and a "go-to" video as reference in case I need it. Great job.
Finally, success. I had previously tried various aspects of the process, using isopropyl alcohol, plus cleaning the pistons with mineral oil, then drying. I strongly suspect that the rotor was my problem. I went to the trouble of removing the rotor and using brake cleaner, for the first time. I also hit everything else with brake cleaner and also applied sandpaper and heat to the pads. Before the rotors were even re-bedded, the squealing stopped.
I have been using Gorilla pads since 8/2021 (around 15,000 miles now) and my experience is as yours. 100% agree with you about price and the Shimano cooling fins being unecessary. I find they last much longer than the Shimano equivalents. The ones I use are for: Shimano Dura Ace BR-R9170 Ultegra BR-R8070 BR-RS805 BR-RS505 BR-RS405 BR-RS305 L02A - Enduro kevlar. Great videos - thanks.
Hi Kirk, Glad you liked the video. The trouble is, a lot of people just think they have to use the one from the groupset manufacturer........ odd, because people don't do this with rim brakes. I did a more detailed video on these pads, link below if you've not watched it already: ruclips.net/video/mTq9fKswBBQ/видео.html Thanks for watching, Jon
🙄I intended to make my comment against your video about alternatives to Shimano pads - apologies! I'll post the comment again, against the correct video this time. @@ribblevalleycyclist
This howto helped my out to cure squealing Front break after upgrading my wheelset and installing Icetech XT rotors (MT-800). After doing battle with my issue for some time, It came down to a few key points. 1. use clean microfiber cloth to wipe rotors after using high alcohol isopropyl or (rubbing alcohol ) or rotor cleaner to get them as clean as possible. 2. clean the break calipers also with isopropyl well getting whatever grit in there out. 3. Ensure your calipers are straight as possible aligning with your rotor, assuming your rotor is also not bent. 4. Newer Icetech routers may be slightly thinker brand new. Its best to get new break pads that also match the rotor (new pads may be slightly thiner). My case: BR-M800 caliper to j05A resin pads. Previously metal J04. cleaning the previous pads might have also worked but also but just getting fresh pads seemed like the better option. The newer Shimano pads come in a paper box rather than the plastic. Also the back of the break pad is one solid black piece. Resin pads are more muted but no more squeal! I may go back to J04 metal later but so happy my bike is quite now.
Glad you enjoyed it. I too used to run sintered pads, but as I’m not an aggressive rider, the increased noise far outweighed the increased performance. I just stick with resin now. No noise, and my posh Hope rotors will thank me for it in the long run.
Just had to do this today Jon, mine were squealing like a banshee. Haven't tested 'em yet though. Keep your fingers crossed for me. Good video, thanks 👍🚴
@@ribblevalleycyclist No joy...tested this morning...still banshee like 🙄 Persevered, recleaned rotors and pads but this time used nail polish remover, re sanded then cleaned again using nail polish remover...as silent as a silent thing. The difference this time around...nail polish remover as opposed to iso propyl alcohol or even muc off specific cleaner 🚴👍
It funny that all the pro tour bikes squeal even with professional mechanics working on them daily. Rim brakes with alloy rims are so much more enjoyable in the winter and carbon for the summer. Disc brakes are for MTB’s.
I found that if you continue to have noise most likely it is a slow leak of brake fluid containing the pads, usually where the 2 half's of the caliper seal, which causes it to glaze the pad and disk. My go-to method instead of chemicals is heat. 20-30 seconds with a propane or butane torch with pads sitting on a brick will burn off any oils, too long and you will overheat the glue used to bond the pad. A light scuff on the rotors, and if the pad is glossy a light scuff of the pad with sand paper. Been doing it for years works every time, chemicals don't get the oils out of the pad and the noise comes back.
I purchased some Gorilla Finned semi-metallic brake pads on your recommendation. They universally fit 105, Ultegra and GRX, for only £11.99+ a pair. I'll try them out before replacing the rotors
Even simpler: climb the highest mountain in your area and pull the brakes constantly while descending back down. By the time your back down the brakes should be hot enogh that every contaminant is either evaporated or has burned off. Repeat if necessary. This way you get plenty of exercise too. 🚲 😎
I've done this myself, gammelgemse. There is a fantastic climb in the Ribble Valley called Waddy Fell, it's ideal for this. I've also seen videos where people use blow torches..... Not sure I'd want to recommend that though!!
Dude you are a legend. My brakes have been a huge pain for me for months now. They start screeching, I clean/replace the parts, they start screeching, I clean them again. I've done this over and over and over. After reading your comment I lightly braked while pedaling (not even downhill) for 2 minutes. And voila, they were quiet again.
My local bike shop said I needed to replace rotors and pads due to contaminated rotors. I told him it squeaked 'before' I lubed chain and areas close to rotor. Really? Replace rotors and pads because of slight overspray? My brakes have squeaked from day one basically. Will try cleaning with alcohol or acetone and stay away for sprays for sure.
I'm surprised you didn't mention 'upgrading' the pad retaining bolt with one with a hex fitting. I'd left mine too long and of course it sheared, then sheared from the other end (with a set of grips on it) and required drilling out which was is something I don't want to repeat. In terms of brake cleaner, a mate (who also has a road rally car) uses Nappa brake cleaner in a standard pressure sprayer (the type you can buy for weedkiller) which seems a good compromise between ££££ bike products and the cannisters that last about 30 seconds before they're empty (the local place had a can of Weldtite Jet Blast and whilst effective, it didn't last long at all). I recently also invested in a tool to push the pistons back in which has been pretty handy of late although I'm kicking myself for not going for the PT.
Good shout, Paul. Agreed, a hex bolt is a nice upgrade. Saying that though, a blob of something on the thread and not installing it with a jack hammer is also affective 🤣🤣🤣. Yeah, a lot of cyclists turn to car brands for disc cleaning products. That one I use is made by a car company! Pistol tool, I just use the handle on my long nosed pliers!!!!! Yeah, I know, I should use the correct tool. I have one somewhere, but I misplaced it about 6 months ago. I've not replaced it, because the current solution seems to do the job even better than the correct tool. Maybe I'll treat myself to a PT one soon.
@@ribblevalleycyclist it was the neglect that got me this time. The state of the pads was a touch embarrassing. It's safe to say that my wife's bike, my bike and my Dad's bike all of which seem to fall to me to keep on the road are now hex.
Personally i would clean the pads then make sure there fully dry and sand them. And NOT clean them afterwards cause that brake dust will help to get them broken in faster.
I do the same on my bike, for that exact reason. MTB’ers also do it. I personally won’t ever recommend it though, because if it gets on the braking surface, it’s new discs and pads!
Dear Ribble Cyclist, I saw Fenwicks All Weather lube in the video. Can you recommend it to me for the winter months? And does the chain still remain a little bit clean with this lube? Thanks for your help with all your video's. They really help me everytime !
Hi, Yes, it’s my go-to oil nowadays for the winter months. There are other options out there, from big brand cleaning product manufacturers for example, but your drivetrain ends up looking like you used crude oil!!!! The Fenwicks is a great product 👍
I’ve tried this and it doesn’t work. In my case moisture is not the problem but instead makes the squealing go away. When it hasn’t rain for a while the brakes start squealing. Go figure. The only thing that works is anti-squeal paste!
Cleaning the brakes fixes my problem for about 2 weeks. After that they're noisy and have terrible brake force again. I've done this a few times now. Any idea why the problem comes back all the time?
I really do not like disc brakes especially hydraulic ones. I’ve had two back wheel lockups both times came off, and a failure of the front brake on a steep downhill it’s a good job I used to race cyclocross 😵💫 if I had to use them I’d choose mechanical ones. They are fully adjustable great when you’re out on a ride and hear the dreaded PING PING 👍
Hey slightly unrelated to this video, I installed the right shifter fine but in the left shifter when installing the hose into the shifter it becomes tight much sooner and I feel as though I’m going to over tighten it. I just went for it and tightened it however when I’ve filled the shifter reservoir with oil the break just doesn’t work properly. Way too much free play. Can you think of anything to fix this?
Sounds like the olive and hose aren't seated correctly. The olive may be too far up the hose. Cut the olive off the hose, add a new one with a new barb, and try it again. Good luck.
@@ribblevalleycyclist many thanks for your reply, I tried every winch way to not have the olive too far down the hose. I didn’t fully tighten it I just went until I felt resistance and again it was always quite far out. I just tightened it as far as it would let me then filled the lever with oil etc, whilst pumping the brake I got all the resistance I would expect from a normal properly set up shifter which is good I suppose. I’ve ridden it and the brake is working so I’ll just see how it goes. If it stops working I’ll take it to LBS. Just nice to do it oneself
@@ribblevalleycyclist yer but if bed them in with shimano discs i never had problems. I try clarks on and off years always crap it just i made mtb and got clarks brake set so put on discs as all had in 6bolt . Roll on pay day for new discs lol
![Tee Grizzley - Robbery 8 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/34_vkNV6wrU/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video. I've just followed the instructions to the letter, and my bike no longer honks like a goose. Thank you! 👍
You're welcome! 👍
Good to know - I'll be getting the sandpaper out this weekend!
Woohoo! A Dolan! Very underrated bike. I have an ADX Ultegra Titanium rim brake. Easy maintenance (hardly ever needs). Absolute gold!!!
My do-it-all Dolan 😂
My go to channel for bike maintenance......thank you
Kind of you. Thanks 👍
Love this video. Some rotor cleaning vids border on black magic and incantations. There is no mystery. We cleaning metal using solvents to get all the grease off. The sandpaper cleans and smooths. Good old alcohol and acetone is all you need. Great stuff.
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
I'm taking delivery of my first bike with disc breaks this Saturday. Now I have a list of products to get and a "go-to" video as reference in case I need it. Great job.
Finally, success. I had previously tried various aspects of the process, using isopropyl alcohol, plus cleaning the pistons with mineral oil, then drying. I strongly suspect that the rotor was my problem.
I went to the trouble of removing the rotor and using brake cleaner, for the first time. I also hit everything else with brake cleaner and also applied sandpaper and heat to the pads.
Before the rotors were even re-bedded, the squealing stopped.
I have been using Gorilla pads since 8/2021 (around 15,000 miles now) and my experience is as yours. 100% agree with you about price and the Shimano cooling fins being unecessary. I find they last much longer than the Shimano equivalents. The ones I use are for: Shimano Dura Ace BR-R9170 Ultegra BR-R8070 BR-RS805 BR-RS505 BR-RS405 BR-RS305 L02A - Enduro kevlar. Great videos - thanks.
Hi Kirk,
Glad you liked the video. The trouble is, a lot of people just think they have to use the one from the groupset manufacturer........ odd, because people don't do this with rim brakes.
I did a more detailed video on these pads, link below if you've not watched it already:
ruclips.net/video/mTq9fKswBBQ/видео.html
Thanks for watching,
Jon
🙄I intended to make my comment against your video about alternatives to Shimano pads - apologies! I'll post the comment again, against the correct video this time. @@ribblevalleycyclist
I'm not gonna complain about anyone binge-watching my videos @@kirkalderson4005 🤣
This howto helped my out to cure squealing Front break after upgrading my wheelset and installing Icetech XT rotors (MT-800). After doing battle with my issue for some time, It came down to a few key points. 1. use clean microfiber cloth to wipe rotors after using high alcohol isopropyl or (rubbing alcohol ) or rotor cleaner to get them as clean as possible. 2. clean the break calipers also with isopropyl well getting whatever grit in there out. 3. Ensure your calipers are straight as possible aligning with your rotor, assuming your rotor is also not bent. 4. Newer Icetech routers may be slightly thinker brand new. Its best to get new break pads that also match the rotor (new pads may be slightly thiner). My case: BR-M800 caliper to j05A resin pads. Previously metal J04. cleaning the previous pads might have also worked but also but just getting fresh pads seemed like the better option. The newer Shimano pads come in a paper box rather than the plastic. Also the back of the break pad is one solid black piece. Resin pads are more muted but no more squeal! I may go back to J04 metal later but so happy my bike is quite now.
Glad you enjoyed it. I too used to run sintered pads, but as I’m not an aggressive rider, the increased noise far outweighed the increased performance. I just stick with resin now. No noise, and my posh Hope rotors will thank me for it in the long run.
Excellent video. Followed it nearly to the letter. Screaming brakes no more! Happy days.
And that’s why I make these videos 👍
Just had to do this today Jon, mine were squealing like a banshee. Haven't tested 'em yet though. Keep your fingers crossed for me. Good video, thanks 👍🚴
Fingers crossed Pete 👍
@@ribblevalleycyclist No joy...tested this morning...still banshee like 🙄 Persevered, recleaned rotors and pads but this time used nail polish remover, re sanded then cleaned again using nail polish remover...as silent as a silent thing. The difference this time around...nail polish remover as opposed to iso propyl alcohol or even muc off specific cleaner 🚴👍
It funny that all the pro tour bikes squeal even with professional mechanics working on them daily.
Rim brakes with alloy rims are so much more enjoyable in the winter and carbon for the summer.
Disc brakes are for MTB’s.
Maravillosa explicación, muy didáctico el video
Thank you 👍
I found that if you continue to have noise most likely it is a slow leak of brake fluid containing the pads, usually where the 2 half's of the caliper seal, which causes it to glaze the pad and disk. My go-to method instead of chemicals is heat. 20-30 seconds with a propane or butane torch with pads sitting on a brick will burn off any oils, too long and you will overheat the glue used to bond the pad. A light scuff on the rotors, and if the pad is glossy a light scuff of the pad with sand paper. Been doing it for years works every time, chemicals don't get the oils out of the pad and the noise comes back.
I purchased some Gorilla Finned semi-metallic brake pads on your recommendation. They universally fit 105, Ultegra and GRX, for only £11.99+ a pair. I'll try them out before replacing the rotors
Keep us posted, Justin 👍
Great video, very helpful to a disc brake newbie. The links at the end didn't appear though.
Hi Work In Progress. Glad you found it useful. Thanks for the info, I'll go and check it.
Even simpler: climb the highest mountain in your area and pull the brakes constantly while descending back down. By the time your back down the brakes should be hot enogh that every contaminant is either evaporated or has burned off. Repeat if necessary. This way you get plenty of exercise too. 🚲 😎
I've done this myself, gammelgemse. There is a fantastic climb in the Ribble Valley called Waddy Fell, it's ideal for this. I've also seen videos where people use blow torches..... Not sure I'd want to recommend that though!!
I like this method better. YMMV
Heat = warping
So no.
@@ribblevalleycyclist
Dude you are a legend. My brakes have been a huge pain for me for months now. They start screeching, I clean/replace the parts, they start screeching, I clean them again.
I've done this over and over and over.
After reading your comment I lightly braked while pedaling (not even downhill) for 2 minutes. And voila, they were quiet again.
My local bike shop said I needed to replace rotors and pads due to contaminated rotors. I told him it squeaked 'before' I lubed chain and areas close to rotor. Really? Replace rotors and pads because of slight overspray? My brakes have squeaked from day one basically. Will try cleaning with alcohol or acetone and stay away for sprays for sure.
I'm surprised you didn't mention 'upgrading' the pad retaining bolt with one with a hex fitting. I'd left mine too long and of course it sheared, then sheared from the other end (with a set of grips on it) and required drilling out which was is something I don't want to repeat.
In terms of brake cleaner, a mate (who also has a road rally car) uses Nappa brake cleaner in a standard pressure sprayer (the type you can buy for weedkiller) which seems a good compromise between ££££ bike products and the cannisters that last about 30 seconds before they're empty (the local place had a can of Weldtite Jet Blast and whilst effective, it didn't last long at all). I recently also invested in a tool to push the pistons back in which has been pretty handy of late although I'm kicking myself for not going for the PT.
Good shout, Paul. Agreed, a hex bolt is a nice upgrade. Saying that though, a blob of something on the thread and not installing it with a jack hammer is also affective 🤣🤣🤣.
Yeah, a lot of cyclists turn to car brands for disc cleaning products. That one I use is made by a car company! Pistol tool, I just use the handle on my long nosed pliers!!!!! Yeah, I know, I should use the correct tool. I have one somewhere, but I misplaced it about 6 months ago. I've not replaced it, because the current solution seems to do the job even better than the correct tool. Maybe I'll treat myself to a PT one soon.
@@ribblevalleycyclist it was the neglect that got me this time. The state of the pads was a touch embarrassing. It's safe to say that my wife's bike, my bike and my Dad's bike all of which seem to fall to me to keep on the road are now hex.
We've all been there!! I have a pal that had to buy a new calliper.
Break squak is not a bad thing unless it impacts brake performance. Saves you from installing a bell.
An annoyingly loud freehub has the same effect 🤣
@@ribblevalleycyclist Very true. But cost a ton of money. Only the weight weenie top shelf components can wake the dead.
Personally i would clean the pads then make sure there fully dry and sand them. And NOT clean them afterwards cause that brake dust will help to get them broken in faster.
On cars we put a small amount of copper grease on the back of the pads to dampen noise from vibration.
I do the same on my bike, for that exact reason. MTB’ers also do it. I personally won’t ever recommend it though, because if it gets on the braking surface, it’s new discs and pads!
Nope, too much trouble! Rim brakes or let it squeal! Bring back the simplicity of bike riding!
Unless you have an ebike.
Great video, but off to the bike mechanic for me!
Hope you get it sorted 👍
Dear Ribble Cyclist, I saw Fenwicks All Weather lube in the video. Can you recommend it to me for the winter months? And does the chain still remain a little bit clean with this lube? Thanks for your help with all your video's. They really help me everytime !
Hi, Yes, it’s my go-to oil nowadays for the winter months. There are other options out there, from big brand cleaning product manufacturers for example, but your drivetrain ends up looking like you used crude oil!!!! The Fenwicks is a great product 👍
Merci!
Thanks, Denis 👍
I’ve tried this and it doesn’t work. In my case moisture is not the problem but instead makes the squealing go away. When it hasn’t rain for a while the brakes start squealing. Go figure.
The only thing that works is anti-squeal paste!
Cleaning the brakes fixes my problem for about 2 weeks. After that they're noisy and have terrible brake force again. I've done this a few times now.
Any idea why the problem comes back all the time?
I really do not like disc brakes especially hydraulic ones. I’ve had two back wheel lockups both times came off, and a failure of the front brake on a steep downhill it’s a good job I used to race cyclocross 😵💫 if I had to use them I’d choose mechanical ones. They are fully adjustable great when you’re out on a ride and hear the dreaded PING PING 👍
Has anyone noticed that when wet previously contaminated brakes are ok.
Sure, if that contaminat was water soluble.
Do we need to bed-in the brakes after this operation? Thanks!
Hi Denis. Yep, a good idea to bed them in again. Thanks.
@@ribblevalleycyclist Thank you for the reply! Always a pleasure to watch your videos. Be well!
@@denis_roy_7 Thank you Denis. And it’s always a pleasure to hear people getting something from them.
2 pounds of acetone? Pretty heavy huh?
Hey slightly unrelated to this video, I installed the right shifter fine but in the left shifter when installing the hose into the shifter it becomes tight much sooner and I feel as though I’m going to over tighten it. I just went for it and tightened it however when I’ve filled the shifter reservoir with oil the break just doesn’t work properly. Way too much free play. Can you think of anything to fix this?
Sounds like the olive and hose aren't seated correctly. The olive may be too far up the hose. Cut the olive off the hose, add a new one with a new barb, and try it again. Good luck.
@@ribblevalleycyclist many thanks for your reply, I tried every winch way to not have the olive too far down the hose. I didn’t fully tighten it I just went until I felt resistance and again it was always quite far out. I just tightened it as far as it would let me then filled the lever with oil etc, whilst pumping the brake I got all the resistance I would expect from a normal properly set up shifter which is good I suppose. I’ve ridden it and the brake is working so I’ll just see how it goes. If it stops working I’ll take it to LBS. Just nice to do it oneself
I find clarks discs make noise too if wet no matter what try im getting Shimano ones
Sintered/Metallic pads can also be the cause of noise in the wet.
@@ribblevalleycyclist yer but if bed them in with shimano discs i never had problems. I try clarks on and off years always crap it just i made mtb and got clarks brake set so put on discs as all had in 6bolt . Roll on pay day for new discs lol
@@ribblevalleycyclist by way got resin pads at mo so must show discs no good there diff steel sure of it
Agreed, if you’re getting noise with resin, then there may be a disc issue
@@ribblevalleycyclist cheap steel maybe dont no . Prop get shimano xt discs . My bin will like clarks ones 😂👍
i leave the disc on the wheel and spin while holding the sandpaper on the disc... then wipe off with 99% alcohol..
Wouldn't be acetone, eat up brake pads on non sentence type of pads
Isopropyl Alcohol on all surfaces , pads and rotors.
Sounds like a good idea. If it works, go with it 👍
Don’t use acetone without gloves
If you want a heavy noisy bike buy a disc brake one
Didn't a 5.8kg disc brake bike just win the British National Hill Climb Championships? 🤔
@@ribblevalleycyclistthe bike would have been lighter with rim brakes only an idiot would ride a disc brake bike on an hill climb
@@Tarmaccyclocross So Andrew Feather, the British Hill Climb Champion, is an idiot....... I think we're done here.