Reach & Free Stroke Adjustment - Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brake Levers - Road Bike Maintenance
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- Reach & Free Stroke Adjustment - Shimano Hydraulic Disc Brake Levers
The two most common problems riders have with levers are:
1. How far away they are, and
2. How much travel the brake lever has
In this video, we’re going to look at both problems, and how they affect each other.
When the lever is too far from the bar, you may struggle with braking, when you’re on the drops.
And when there is too much travel, the lever can touch the bar before the brake is fully applied.
The good news is, with some Shimano levers, you can easily resolve these problems, with simple adjustments.
Most modern Shimano levers have what is known as a Reach Adjustment, and the higher end levers also have an additional adjustment called stroke.
Most riders know about reach adjustment, but not so many are aware of Stroke, or more importantly, how to correctly set it.
Reach Adjustment:
We use reach adjustment to either increase or decrease the distance between the bar and the brake lever. You may want to adjust this if you have smaller hands.
The great news is the vast majority of modern Shimano drop bar shifters have this feature, from Claris to Dura Ace, and the gravel shifters too.
I’ve included a link below to Shimano’s website, that lists all levers with this function.
Free Stroke Adjustment:
Free Stroke Adjustment differs to Reach Adjustment, because its changing what the brake lever does, rather than where it is.
Because this is a more advanced setting, it is only found on Dura Ace, Ultegra, and some GRX800 levers.
Shimano Links To Compatible Levers
Shimano Reach Adjustment Link:
bike.shimano.com/en-EU/techno...
Shimano Free Stroke Adjustment Link:
bike.shimano.com/en-EU/techno...
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Website Links, Affiliate links, and or products/tools in this video
Some product links are affiliate links, which means if you buy something, I’ll receive a small commission.
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About Ribble Valley Cyclist:
I am a regular road cyclist based in the North West of England. I have been a cyclist my whole life, and try to get out every day. The purpose of my RUclips channel is to share the knowledge I’ve built up in my 40 years as a cyclist.
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⏰ Timecodes ⏰
00:00 - Intro
01:26 - Reach Adjustment
03:57 - Free Stroke Adjustment
09:16 - Things To Look Out For 
Спорт
lovely, the best thing i learned is that you need too turn the freestroke adj screw out before bleeding. my adjustment was zero so the mechanics must have missed this as well.
It’s an easy one to forget.
Adjusting the reach on my 105's was a real lifesaver. Thanks for a great tip!
It can make all the difference 👍
I’ve wondered about Reach and Free Stroke Adjustment for some time. Thanks for shedding some light on this topic.
No problem 👍
Before watching your video, idk how to adjust my brifter properly, now i know very well, thanks for the video, loved it.
Glad you liked it
@9:26 👈 Finally, the guru has bestowed unto us the knowledge we need 🙏
Shimano tinkerers, these points are life changing - trust me.
Took me a fair few attempts to work these out!!
It's obvious when you think about it. After all, we wouldn't fit a new rim brake cable, with the barrel adjuster wound all the way out now would we!!! 🤣
I only just discovered this channel but I absolutely love it. Keep going!
Welcome aboard!
Thanks so much for this. I didn't know I could lessen the rech, it feels so much better now. Thanks!
And this is why I make these videos. Thanks for letting me know it was useful to you 👍
What really great video!! I’ve just bought a bike with 12 speed Ultegra Di2. You give out good information dude! Superb!!😎👍🏻
Glad it was helpful 👍
Good video Jon, informative, well edited 🚴👍
Glad you liked it. Feels great to be back in the workshop doing how-to videos. Feels like I’ve done nothing but reviews recently 😕
Brilliant - thanks !
Great video! Very helpful and well presented! Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Love your commentary!
Thanks, do worry how I come across 🫤
Legendary, enjoy so much!
Thanks 👍
Very informative. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, very useful
You’re welcome 👍
Great info.
Thanks 👍
Excellent video as ususl,please keep them coming,at 1.26/27,as if by magic,the white coffee cup appears by your red bench vice,it just caught my eye and made me smile.
Oh and if possible when you unbox or unwrap something on camera could you actually include the sequences please as i'm into ASMR and a lot of your work includes it in the video,maybe your not aware of it,please don't stop doing it as the way you do it is so subtle and more rewarding to listen too.
Hi Antony,
That coffee cup..... Yeah, I noticed that in the edit. Thought to myself, well that looks a bit silly! Maybe I could make a feature with the cup jumping around from shot to shot 🤣.
ASMR..... wasn't actually aware of it until now. Just watched a short video on it. It's actually an interesting concept, and makes the whole experience more realistic for the viewer.
Thank you very much.
You’re welcome 👍
@@ribblevalleycyclist waiting for your review on the Wheeltop system
@alistairmacfadyen9365 Not enough time in the day to get it all done. Sneak preview, I’m impressed with it, and have had no big problems
Genius Sir 🎩
The hat!!! 👍
@@ribblevalleycyclist as in I tip my hat 😁 great tip thank you 👍🏻
@@plumbgray Don’t worry, I knew what you meant. Always good to get the 🎩 👍
is reach adjustment possible in gevenalle brakes?
I know you are discussing Shimano,. However, on my Sram Red AXS, my right (rear) lever will not allow any Free Stroke (Sram calls in Contact Point) adjustment. If I apply any FS adj to the lever, the result is draggy rear brake after riding for an hour or so (hot climate). I've read online that this may be due to swelling of the piston which then binds in the lever cylinder. I've tried all the tips you've mentioned, but the right lever has to have zero FS adj to work consistently. In fact, even when fully adjusted out, on long hot rides I can feel contact point of the lever closing up and reducing travel at the lever - just not enough to actually drag. It's frustrating, and likely only solved by investing in the knew Red levers.
Contact Point…. A much better name for it, make more sense than Free Stroke!!!! Your frustration isn’t exclusive to SRAM, they all suffer from it. Some models, especially the cheaper/earlier ones have poor modulation, whereby the movement of the lever is equal at the pad. Later/better versions have increased modulation where the pad moves much further, and therefore lifts it well clear of the pad. All you can do is keep it all well tuned and cleaned in order to reduce the issue. My disc rubbing video may give you some tips.
@@ribblevalleycyclistI've just bought a used Aeroad which came with SRAM Red AXS and after I'd finished needing to persuade the saddle clamp mechanism to move I've moved straight on tov the dragging front brake which wouldn't retract properly. I opened up the lever bleed port, a few drops leaked out and the pistons will now retract further but the bite point is now back at the bars. Contact adjustment or do I need a full re bleed do you think?
@bennp2000 Bleed it, then you know it’s done properly. Did one yesterday, was literally a 5 minute job. Link below to my video on how you do it. Remember though, your system uses different fluid and bleed port connectors, but the principle is the same:
ruclips.net/video/eGclavtkoIg/видео.html
@@ribblevalleycyclist it was the absence of DOT in my tool cabinet that stopped me and an impending extended work trip to Adelaide in a week! Do you have a video for sorting out a SRAM Red AXS front mech? That thing likes to throw the chain for fun...
@bennp2000 @bennp2000 Don’t have anything on SRAM front mech, don’t see many of them. Front dropping is not always the mech though, sometimes it’s the design/shape/size of the frame. Had a Shimano one once on an extra small frame that kept doing it, even after replacing the whole mech. Had to fit a chain catcher in the end…. Felt like I was bodging the job 😕
If I’ve understood well, I’ve do the bleeding before the adjustment, did I?
I would recommend that you are confident your system is set up correctly before tying this. Saying that though, trying this won’t do any harm. If you know how to bleed brakes, and you have the tools, then I would recommend it.
This video is worth watching, it’s about brake bleeding
ruclips.net/video/eGclavtkoIg/видео.htmlsi=7XKrKUetsifdVip1
What about lateral movement of the gear shifting? Getting tired of having to move my wrist to extreme positions just to shift gears….albeit I’m using cable 105 and Ultegra.
There's no way to adjust that. Single-click shifts on the most recent STI levers don't have a lot of throw as far as I remember.
does sram have this feature ?
I'm guessing freestroke doesn't work on rim brake?
You have the barrel adjuster on rim brakes, has the same effect.
Bloody brilliant..... Free stroke is what I'd like. But I'm 105 😢
Can probably fudge (adjust) freestroke by manually increasing/decreasing the brake pad gap and then bleeding. It can be tricky to get right, but it should work if you get the spacing (spacer) right.
It does help. However, a well maintained 105 system works very well. I still use 105 7000, and it's great.
Good suggestion. Some also apply a small amount of pressure to the fluid via the bleed syringe before closing the bleed nipple off.
@@ribblevalleycyclist Agree completely.....
@@ribblevalleycyclist perhaps subject for your next video 😁😁😁😁
I have both Problems at the same time
Get them bled first, then check the lever setup 👍
Both 105 and Ultegra offer levers for people with smaller hands, thus offering more reach adjustment on the levers. upto 15mm on the 105. BL-R7020/7025 ecc BL-R8020 bla bla bla.....
ummm i just brought a new Sram 12spd shifter yesterday because of this. Then this video pops up 🫣