I’ve watched a tonne of these videos and bleed brakes about a dozen times at least, but this is hands down the best video I’ve seen for adjustment! Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom, it’s really appreciated
After watching probably 20-30 other "fix squishy brakes" videos, full caliper and piston decontaminated and lubricated, and 2 full bleeds I stumbled onto this video. The segment of the video from 7m45sec was EXACTLY what I needed to finally dial in my rear brake lever. Such a simple thing and I'm glad it was the actual solution and not some bodge home remedy fix. Love your work!
This is, by far, the best DIY instructions I've seen on RUclips. I have watched several other videos, including some from GCN, but none of them came close! The other videos contained pieces of info here and there, but fell short on key details. Using their instructions, I was bleeding and bleeding and bleeding, but the brake lever was still touching the handlebar! Pardon the pun, but I thought the hydraulic system was going to bleed to death! Thanks Oz Cycle for your comprehensive instructions and keen attention to details! Using your video, I was able to get my brakes fixed, and now they're perfect! I'm a happy camper! Thanks Oz!
A most excellent and clear video. No faff, just straight into the various problems and fixes. I'm new to hydraulic brakes, but will be saving this video so have a reference every time I need to service or fix my brakes. Thank you Oz Cycle for an excellent resource!
This is by far one of the best disc brake bleed videos I've seen. You show us some very helpful and quick techniques that make it clear how to get back a responsive disc brake system. 👏👏👏
You are the king! I’ve done all the other steps before with mediocre results, but that topping off trick works perfectly! Thank you so much. I love that you don’t even take the wheels out. So fast!
Got to say, the tips in the final segments of this video are fantastic re the fine tuning of the fluid/ lever throw. I've bled, purged.....bled again my brakes, but couldn't solve the problem of the lever almost touching the bar. This trick has solved it and takes minutes.
I would like to add my feedback, along with all the other people now being able to stop safely and properly on their bikes! I too watched many many bleed videos and must have flushed my system with a whole bottle of fluid, angling the bike up, down, tapping, burping, all that stuff! Finally after watching your video my brakes feel like they should! FINALLY! Thank you for being you and making quality tutorials that actually work and that apply to us home mechanics.
Absolutely best cycle tech videos on the tube thanks for making this great content. Disc brakes are wonderful once you demystify the tech. I also wax my chains and will never go back to oil.
Mate you absolutely saved me. All the other videos online that cover bleeds still leave my brakes ultra spongy. But your technique was amazing. Thanks again
12:00 if you don't have those spacers, just take out the wheel, put a folded business card on the rotor, put the wheel back in, then try again. Works every time for me.
I can’t thank you enough! This 8:46 worked like a dream. Ever since my First bleed I’ve never been able to get either brakes on my bike perfect. I did at least 3 bleeds following, GCNs, Parktool and Cycling weekly’s videos with no success but that one tip 10/10.
Honestly this channel makes the best road bike maintenance content in world I would even dare to say. Sympathetic, cycling passionate guy obviously having many years of cycling experience with great tips and workarounds for issues. Just love the content, honestly.
Fantastic, thank you. Had bled brakes, tried adjusting free stroke etc, but the issue was with the actual pressure in the system. Topped up pressure with syringe as shown and hey presto my brakes are now better than when I got the bike!
Hey oz cycle! I thank you greatly for this tutorial - this saved me, after I've been fiddling and more messing around with my hydraulic brake system (Shimano 105) without success. But after watching this, it works perfectly. Thanks again!
Always make sure your discs are completely straight before you adjust them! :P This video is really great. Author has huge knowledge[bigger than some mechanics in bike shops] and experience.
You sir are a genius. I had soft brake levers for about 2 years but after using your technique by pumping mineral oil into the calipers both levers have firmer even brake tension now. Awesome 😎👍
Like many others commented, I have watched so many other videos and still having issues with excess free stroke. Then I watched your video and immediately identified the problem I was having. Now I have a nice firm crispy brake.. I can’t thank you enough!!!! 🙏
Thank you so much!!!! I haven't even tried to use your tips yet on my mountain bike, but I am 100% certain that it will work as it makes complete mechanical sense. I was struggling with free stroke and now I know how to fix! Excellent video!
Gr8 again. I had this problem, and I even have the FELT Z2! Like unnamed, I tried pads, rotors and bike shop. Well your method worked. Brilliantly and now I have a bleed kit too and followed the bleed process. Tks.
Thanks for posting this just in time to save my sanity! An Xmas project to move a set of 105 7020 brakes to a new frame has, lets just say, taken longer than expected 😳. All good now 👍.
Good stuff here. Thanks mate. I finally managed to get my disc brakes to the perfect point without too much effort and time. Loved the technique to push fluid through the caliper (doesn’t work if you still have air in the system, so make sure you get all those bubbles out).
another great video thank you, I have learned a lot from your videos, like waxing your chain, i wax all my chains now, keep a spare waxed and just swap thwm out when its time for rewax
You see broader! You want to help! Thank you so much! There is no video like this in the whole world!! I purchased my Giant Defy Advanced 2019 from TBE about a year and half ago. It has a Shimano 105 group set, with a semi hydraulic brake system. I commute to work every single day no matter what and have done 5,300km so far. Rear brakes never performed. I actioned the warranty and they replaced the rear brake parts. Worked well during 2 weeks, but the brakes are now useless again (dangerous) after a couple of months. I have actioned the warranty again and looking to get them replaced to full hydraulic disc brakes. Hopefully they will replace it free of charge to compensate for all the time I have lost trying to get the mandatory rear brakes working as they should. Fingers crossed!
What a great set of fine tuning tips from your experience! After the watching it seems quite obvious that we can pour some more fluid into the system and thus eliminate excessive free stroke of the pistons. What a sweet solution to make half worn pads feel like new! But without your video I would never think of doing this! Huuuuge thanks! 🙏
08:20 A quick tip if you dont want to use the syringe to add more oil: remove the brake pads. Pump the lever about one full stroke. Put brake pads back in. This will move the pistons closer to the disc and have the same effect. Make sure you have enough oil in the system otherwise you might push air from the reservoir into the brake lines. You might need a few tries/experience to get it right. If you overdid simply push the pistons back in, center the brake with pads and rotors, and try again. Of course, both methods move the pads closer to the disc than intended - so brake rub might occur.
Valuble tips. I’ve not tried the tapping part however I had trouble with the front break and following shimanos bleeding protocol helped little. Finally I wiggled the bike around and even upside down and then 5 more big bubbles of air appeared and brake works fine now. (Prefere rim-brakes though)
In behalf of the thickness of the pad material, it also depends on the used brake type. Simpler brakes (which use for example BS01 Resin pads) have less thickness at the beginning, but can be worn down to around 0,5 mm. Such brakes will less be found on expensive road bikes, but on beginners MTBs or commuter bikes
I have a nice comfortable full suspension trail bike. I installed a road ish wheelset and tires. The ride is amazing. Very good for my old body. Terrible for climbing lol
your onto something slightly pressurising while closing the spanner until its overloaded. tried absolutely everything (bar assembling in an oil bath) on my shimano xt's, and theyre still spongey. im going to give your technique a go and that might just do it. thank you (tip: i also tried the oven baking technique on the pads (400f 20mins) and i can confirm that works wonders to renew them, xt pads have a flaw and go bad in humidity)
Great video. Possibly should have a warning not to keep pumping the brakes with the pads out or you might push the pistons right out, and there will be brake fluid everywhere! Might also be worth mentioning to use gloves with SRAM brakes (well any brakes that use DOT brake fluid). It probably wouldnt have such a large effect on how crisp your braking is, but if you want to get technical you may want to look up lazy/sticky pistons and see if you have that problem? The shims for aligning the callipers are interesting, as was pushing in brake fluid to increase the pressure. I dont know if what i do is bad (never heard of anyone else doing it like this and i only really work on my own bikes) but i find when im aligning my callipers, the calliper mount twists while doing up the mounting bolts (which i assume is why you say to do them up evenly bit by bit). Ill do them up with moderate force with the brakes held down then back one of slightly and tap on the end of the mount till i get it into a position where it stops rubbing. Tighten the loose one down a bit and check. Then do final torque of the mounting bolts.
I dont recall having such problems with my rim brakes. I had a mtb with disc brakes that frequently gave me issues and I had to do frequent maintenance til it reached a point I sold it away. When there's no problem everything's good but its too time consuming when there are issues. Thank you for this informative video though, great upload 👍
I had V brakes on my commuter, however if you drive much with it I had to adjust the brakes constantly. Now I retrofitted a disc brake on this bike (at least at the front where it was possible), I drove around 2500 km since mid year with it without adjusting anything on the brake. My mountain bike has also discs, as long as you be careful not getting oil on the disc (oil is nasty on disc brakes) I never had problems with it. I use relatively simple, inexpensive Shimano MT 200s, they are simple but as long as you don't use the bike for downhill etc they work fine. If a MT 200 will not work properly one day and there is no way to get it working again you could also replace it, it's 25 € for the caliper and the lever in Europe.
I always laugh when Idiots say " rim brakes don't work when wet ", they work perfect. Easier to see when worn, easier and much, much, much quicker to repair or replace. Lets not forget every time you pull back the hoods on your handlebars to top up your disc brakes fluid or check for air bubbles the hoods get a bit looser fitting each time.
@@chrisdavies3659 I still have bikes with V brakes beside others with disc brakes, I use good Kool Stop dual compound brake pads. However, even these offer less brake power than in dry condition until the wheel turned 1 or 2 times. Wet discs also do that, but the effect is less.
@@simonm1447 Been cycling for over 40 yrs, never had a rim brake fail me, or fail to stop when wet. Rim Brakes = 5 mins to replace blocks, or repair, 1 min to check for wear. Disc brakes .. buy extra tools, buy extra consumables, don't get dusty, don't get wet, don't muddy, don't over spray with chemicals, check your hydrofluids, check for air bubbles, tilt your bike tap this way, that way, clamp this, clamp that, reset this reset that, cost more, weigh more, and on, and on, and on !
@@chrisdavies3659 Which brake pads do you use? I use Kool Stop on my V brake bikes, the Shimano pads are relatively aggressive to the rim, and the original pads of my E bike (no brand pads) almost ate the rim during the first 1300 km (until I replaced them) Some bikes (like fat bikes) are only possible with discs (they never introduced fat bike rims for rim brakes), and for 27.5 inch bikes there are also only disc brakes possible because there is no V brake standard defined for this wheel size (and this rims are typically not made rim brakes), only for 26 and 28 (29 inch bikes also use 28 inch rims)
Was amazed to see such a big piston exposure at 6:00, especially - on the right side. Which brings a question if you have ever experienced a piston coming so far, that it slips out from the rubber seal and the fluid starts to leak. Each time I clean and lubricate the piston walls like you show, I think if this scenario is possible or not 😁
I just watched another method to do this supposedly (from youtube - the bike sauce channel). Freestroke adjustment-remove wheel and squeeze lever slightly to extend the pistons/pads a bit, then put the wheel back in to check. repeat if needed, or push the pistons back in if go too far.
Hi Steve, love your videos! Remeber, some time ago we discussed some alternative to oil based lubrication of threads/outside of the bearings, you then said that you had some ideas but never came back with anything. I kept considering options and: 1. Do you think that waxing fastener threads and outside of the bearings is practical? I found an article which discusses a patent regarding waxing of fastener threads with a mixture of paraffin/PTFE similar to "your" chain mixture. BTW, there, they suggest submerging waxed parts in water for a "smoother finish" before it fully hardens. 2. What about a "Dry PTFE" lubrication for the above purpose? The solution that comes in a spray can? I do not like how bearing grease normally used for threads and outside of the bearings creates a mess and attracts dust. PS also, at what temperature do you take out the chain when waxing, at 93 degrees C, same as Molten Speed Wax recommends? Thanks! Sev
I’ve watched a tonne of these videos and bleed brakes about a dozen times at least, but this is hands down the best video I’ve seen for adjustment! Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom, it’s really appreciated
After watching probably 20-30 other "fix squishy brakes" videos, full caliper and piston decontaminated and lubricated, and 2 full bleeds I stumbled onto this video. The segment of the video from 7m45sec was EXACTLY what I needed to finally dial in my rear brake lever. Such a simple thing and I'm glad it was the actual solution and not some bodge home remedy fix. Love your work!
This is, by far, the best DIY instructions I've seen on RUclips. I have watched several other videos, including some from GCN, but none of them came close! The other videos contained pieces of info here and there, but fell short on key details. Using their instructions, I was bleeding and bleeding and bleeding, but the brake lever was still touching the handlebar! Pardon the pun, but I thought the hydraulic system was going to bleed to death!
Thanks Oz Cycle for your comprehensive instructions and keen attention to details! Using your video, I was able to get my brakes fixed, and now they're perfect! I'm a happy camper!
Thanks Oz!
A most excellent and clear video. No faff, just straight into the various problems and fixes. I'm new to hydraulic brakes, but will be saving this video so have a reference every time I need to service or fix my brakes. Thank you Oz Cycle for an excellent resource!
Masterclass in brake tweaking. Thanks a lot for this mate, perfect! 👍🏻
You should've name this vid "Advanced Topics in Hydraulic Disc Brake Performance"
It's really an excellent video. Well done my friend!
This is by far one of the best disc brake bleed videos I've seen. You show us some very helpful and quick techniques that make it clear how to get back a responsive disc brake system. 👏👏👏
Finally I've got the lever pressure I want......A big thumbs up to your method 👍👍👍
You are the king! I’ve done all the other steps before with mediocre results, but that topping off trick works perfectly! Thank you so much. I love that you don’t even take the wheels out. So fast!
My front brake lever was almost touching the bar. Your tips helped bring it back to perfection! Thank you.
Got to say, the tips in the final segments of this video are fantastic re the fine tuning of the fluid/ lever throw. I've bled, purged.....bled again my brakes, but couldn't solve the problem of the lever almost touching the bar. This trick has solved it and takes minutes.
I would like to add my feedback, along with all the other people now being able to stop safely and properly on their bikes! I too watched many many bleed videos and must have flushed my system with a whole bottle of fluid, angling the bike up, down, tapping, burping, all that stuff! Finally after watching your video my brakes feel like they should! FINALLY! Thank you for being you and making quality tutorials that actually work and that apply to us home mechanics.
Thank you for your feedback. Glad it worked for you. 👍
Fantastic tips. The tip for fine tuning - perfect.
These are gold! The fight is over and my brakes are so tight, I love it 😁thx for your great work.
Great tips again!
What a cracking video I have been scratching my head on how to improve the sensitivity and it literally is a 2 minute job. Thanks for the top tips 👍
Unparalleled video quality. Thanks for all the tips. What a legend!
Absolutely best cycle tech videos on the tube thanks for making this great content. Disc brakes are wonderful once you demystify the tech. I also wax my chains and will never go back to oil.
Another absolutely stunning and invaluable video. Info you don't find elsewhere. Thank you so much!
Mate you absolutely saved me. All the other videos online that cover bleeds still leave my brakes ultra spongy. But your technique was amazing. Thanks again
Thank you for the tips! I bought a new gravel bike and the disc brakes are already giving me a headache to maintain! This is definitely helping.
What a clear explanation! I was scared of my hydraulics but now i have more confidence. Thanks
I've been trying loads of different methods and yours have been the best. Thanks for the lesson.
Brilliant. As others below I’ve watched all the other videos and none of them mentioned pushing fluid in with the reservoir shut. It works!
12:00 if you don't have those spacers, just take out the wheel, put a folded business card on the rotor, put the wheel back in, then try again.
Works every time for me.
Fantastic video, thank you for all this information! Will be saving this to my favorites so I can come back to it and use as needed.
Re-watch for me,such great tips. Disciplined thorough cleaning is so important. It all adds up in the end,thanks Mate
Thank you for this fix. There’s a lot of bad advice on fixing this issue. Your method is spot on!
I can’t thank you enough! This 8:46 worked like a dream. Ever since my
First bleed I’ve never been able to get either brakes on my bike perfect. I did at least 3 bleeds following, GCNs, Parktool and Cycling weekly’s videos with no success but that one tip 10/10.
Excellent. Now you will be able to tune other riders hydraulic brakes 😀
Same for me. Before totally frustrated after having seen about 20 videos and some trials without success. After applying this tip: success ☺️
Honestly this channel makes the best road bike maintenance content in world I would even dare to say. Sympathetic, cycling passionate guy obviously having many years of cycling experience with great tips and workarounds for issues. Just love the content, honestly.
Me too. Just this one tip solved all the issues I had!
awesome fix
Fantastic, thank you. Had bled brakes, tried adjusting free stroke etc, but the issue was with the actual pressure in the system. Topped up pressure with syringe as shown and hey presto my brakes are now better than when I got the bike!
Hey oz cycle! I thank you greatly for this tutorial - this saved me, after I've been fiddling and more messing around with my hydraulic brake system (Shimano 105) without success. But after watching this, it works perfectly. Thanks again!
the best video on servicing disc brakes bike on youtube thanks
Always make sure your discs are completely straight before you adjust them! :P
This video is really great. Author has huge knowledge[bigger than some mechanics in bike shops] and experience.
Great tip for bringing up the sensitivity on the levers. 👍🔥
You sir are a genius. I had soft brake levers for about 2 years but after using your technique by pumping mineral oil into the calipers both levers have firmer even brake tension now. Awesome 😎👍
REALLY REALLY clear. I'll have a go tomorrow. Fingers crossed and many thanks.
Like many others commented, I have watched so many other videos and still having issues with excess free stroke.
Then I watched your video and immediately identified the problem I was having.
Now I have a nice firm crispy brake..
I can’t thank you enough!!!! 🙏
Good to hear Steven
Thank you so much!!!! I haven't even tried to use your tips yet on my mountain bike, but I am 100% certain that it will work as it makes complete mechanical sense. I was struggling with free stroke and now I know how to fix! Excellent video!
Gr8 again. I had this problem, and I even have the FELT Z2! Like unnamed, I tried pads, rotors and bike shop.
Well your method worked. Brilliantly and now I have a bleed kit too and followed the bleed process.
Tks.
Thanks for posting this just in time to save my sanity! An Xmas project to move a set of 105 7020 brakes to a new frame has, lets just say, taken longer than expected 😳. All good now 👍.
Good stuff here. Thanks mate. I finally managed to get my disc brakes to the perfect point without too much effort and time. Loved the technique to push fluid through the caliper (doesn’t work if you still have air in the system, so make sure you get all those bubbles out).
This video is full of useful and simple techniques/info, thanks for this!
You are a real bike guru! Thanks a lot
another great video thank you, I have learned a lot from your videos, like waxing your chain, i wax all my chains now, keep a spare waxed and just swap thwm out when its time for rewax
You see broader! You want to help! Thank you so much! There is no video like this in the whole world!!
I purchased my Giant Defy Advanced 2019 from TBE about a year and half ago. It has a Shimano 105 group set, with a semi hydraulic brake system. I commute to work every single day no matter what and have done 5,300km so far. Rear brakes never performed. I actioned the warranty and they replaced the rear brake parts. Worked well during 2 weeks, but the brakes are now useless again (dangerous) after a couple of months. I have actioned the warranty again and looking to get them replaced to full hydraulic disc brakes. Hopefully they will replace it free of charge to compensate for all the time I have lost trying to get the mandatory rear brakes working as they should. Fingers crossed!
Thanks mate, Finally I've got a firm lever, I new there wasn't air in the system but couldn't get a good lever till now, Your a star.
What timestamp worked for you?
thank you very much, this solved my braking problems, this is the best advice
finally i got a channel that provide me the answer i need
Great video, some extra tips in there I've not seen elsewhere. Thanks 👍🏻
This is immensely helpful -- thank you!
What a great set of fine tuning tips from your experience! After the watching it seems quite obvious that we can pour some more fluid into the system and thus eliminate excessive free stroke of the pistons. What a sweet solution to make half worn pads feel like new! But without your video I would never think of doing this! Huuuuge thanks! 🙏
Odds are you probably have some air. Re-bleed the system and put extra fluid in the reservoir.
You’re a life saver thanks so much subscribed
Brilliant video, certainly going to try this
Nice one mate. Your little tip about getting the lever travel is a great one that only those of us who tinker with bikes alot know about
Shhh!...don't tell anyone Jon
08:20 A quick tip if you dont want to use the syringe to add more oil: remove the brake pads. Pump the lever about one full stroke. Put brake pads back in. This will move the pistons closer to the disc and have the same effect. Make sure you have enough oil in the system otherwise you might push air from the reservoir into the brake lines. You might need a few tries/experience to get it right. If you overdid simply push the pistons back in, center the brake with pads and rotors, and try again.
Of course, both methods move the pads closer to the disc than intended - so brake rub might occur.
You're my brake hero!!!
Sounds like it worked for you 👍
This was super helpful! Thanks so much!!
Never seen this technique before..so easy and effective. Not all the fancy stuff
Valuble tips. I’ve not tried the tapping part however I had trouble with the front break and following shimanos bleeding protocol helped little. Finally I wiggled the bike around and even upside down and then 5 more big bubbles of air appeared and brake works fine now.
(Prefere rim-brakes though)
Fantastic! You’ve saved my day.
Some really useful tips thanks👍🏽
Thank you so much!
Actually use that syringe trick on my cars clutch pedal before. Never thought about using it on my bike. Awesome
Excellent as always. Thanks very much for the video
In behalf of the thickness of the pad material, it also depends on the used brake type. Simpler brakes (which use for example BS01 Resin pads) have less thickness at the beginning, but can be worn down to around 0,5 mm.
Such brakes will less be found on expensive road bikes, but on beginners MTBs or commuter bikes
Great video thank you
I have a nice comfortable full suspension trail bike. I installed a road ish wheelset and tires.
The ride is amazing. Very good for my old body. Terrible for climbing lol
Super great instruction!
Amazing video again. Always helpful. Thanks 👍
Great instruction!
You just broke some of the rules that other channel's show us , I like it 😃
Thanks again. Very useful.
again a fantastic video
Great video! Cheers!
very very clear ...... gracias !!!
The best brake video on the internet! Please help everyone else out by adding more tag words and a discription! Shimano TRP, SRAM Hydralic ect
Thanx. What does tag labels do?...google the word and the video comes up?
@@stevenleffanue yes it makes it easier to find for people looking for things on the internet
Thanks for that. I saw the option and put those words you mentioned in. 👍
your onto something slightly pressurising while closing the spanner until its overloaded. tried absolutely everything (bar assembling in an oil bath) on my shimano xt's, and theyre still spongey. im going to give your technique a go and that might just do it. thank you
(tip: i also tried the oven baking technique on the pads (400f 20mins) and i can confirm that works wonders to renew them, xt pads have a flaw and go bad in humidity)
Great video thanks
Thank you!
Thanks, mate!
Great video, learnt a lot ,thanks
Great video thanks 😊
Thanks!
Thank you 👌
Great tip 👌 cheers mate
Great video.
Possibly should have a warning not to keep pumping the brakes with the pads out or you might push the pistons right out, and there will be brake fluid everywhere!
Might also be worth mentioning to use gloves with SRAM brakes (well any brakes that use DOT brake fluid).
It probably wouldnt have such a large effect on how crisp your braking is, but if you want to get technical you may want to look up lazy/sticky pistons and see if you have that problem?
The shims for aligning the callipers are interesting, as was pushing in brake fluid to increase the pressure.
I dont know if what i do is bad (never heard of anyone else doing it like this and i only really work on my own bikes) but i find when im aligning my callipers, the calliper mount twists while doing up the mounting bolts (which i assume is why you say to do them up evenly bit by bit). Ill do them up with moderate force with the brakes held down then back one of slightly and tap on the end of the mount till i get it into a position where it stops rubbing. Tighten the loose one down a bit and check. Then do final torque of the mounting bolts.
I dont recall having such problems with my rim brakes. I had a mtb with disc brakes that frequently gave me issues and I had to do frequent maintenance til it reached a point I sold it away. When there's no problem everything's good but its too time consuming when there are issues.
Thank you for this informative video though, great upload 👍
I had V brakes on my commuter, however if you drive much with it I had to adjust the brakes constantly. Now I retrofitted a disc brake on this bike (at least at the front where it was possible), I drove around 2500 km since mid year with it without adjusting anything on the brake. My mountain bike has also discs, as long as you be careful not getting oil on the disc (oil is nasty on disc brakes) I never had problems with it. I use relatively simple, inexpensive Shimano MT 200s, they are simple but as long as you don't use the bike for downhill etc they work fine.
If a MT 200 will not work properly one day and there is no way to get it working again you could also replace it, it's 25 € for the caliper and the lever in Europe.
I always laugh when Idiots say " rim brakes don't work when wet ", they work perfect. Easier to see when worn, easier and much, much, much quicker to repair or replace. Lets not forget every time you pull back the hoods on your handlebars to top up your disc brakes fluid or check for air bubbles the hoods get a bit looser fitting each time.
@@chrisdavies3659 I still have bikes with V brakes beside others with disc brakes, I use good Kool Stop dual compound brake pads. However, even these offer less brake power than in dry condition until the wheel turned 1 or 2 times.
Wet discs also do that, but the effect is less.
@@simonm1447 Been cycling for over 40 yrs, never had a rim brake fail me, or fail to stop when wet. Rim Brakes = 5 mins to replace blocks, or repair, 1 min to check for wear. Disc brakes .. buy extra tools, buy extra consumables, don't get dusty, don't get wet, don't muddy, don't over spray with chemicals, check your hydrofluids, check for air bubbles, tilt your bike tap this way, that way, clamp this, clamp that, reset this reset that, cost more, weigh more, and on, and on, and on !
@@chrisdavies3659 Which brake pads do you use?
I use Kool Stop on my V brake bikes, the Shimano pads are relatively aggressive to the rim, and the original pads of my E bike (no brand pads) almost ate the rim during the first 1300 km (until I replaced them)
Some bikes (like fat bikes) are only possible with discs (they never introduced fat bike rims for rim brakes), and for 27.5 inch bikes there are also only disc brakes possible because there is no V brake standard defined for this wheel size (and this rims are typically not made rim brakes), only for 26 and 28 (29 inch bikes also use 28 inch rims)
Thanks so much. Very useful.
Just what i meed now thank you very much
Was amazed to see such a big piston exposure at 6:00, especially - on the right side. Which brings a question if you have ever experienced a piston coming so far, that it slips out from the rubber seal and the fluid starts to leak. Each time I clean and lubricate the piston walls like you show, I think if this scenario is possible or not 😁
Yep. Pulled broken pistons out to replace quite a few times.
Great, Helped a lot, Thanks
Thanks a lot very helpful
Thankyou again for the effort you put into these videos. Really appreciated. When can I drop my bike over? :-)
Anytime Shannon 🚲
fantastic!
Excellent... thanks a lot.
I just watched another method to do this supposedly (from youtube - the bike sauce channel). Freestroke adjustment-remove wheel and squeeze lever slightly to extend the pistons/pads a bit, then put the wheel back in to check. repeat if needed, or push the pistons back in if go too far.
Most helpful bike bleed out, thx
perfect, thanx mate
Hi Steve, love your videos!
Remeber, some time ago we discussed some alternative to oil based lubrication of threads/outside of the bearings, you then said that you had some ideas but never came back with anything.
I kept considering options and:
1. Do you think that waxing fastener threads and outside of the bearings is practical? I found an article which discusses a patent regarding waxing of fastener threads with a mixture of paraffin/PTFE similar to "your" chain mixture. BTW, there, they suggest submerging waxed parts in water for a "smoother finish" before it fully hardens.
2. What about a "Dry PTFE" lubrication for the above purpose? The solution that comes in a spray can?
I do not like how bearing grease normally used for threads and outside of the bearings creates a mess and attracts dust.
PS also, at what temperature do you take out the chain when waxing, at 93 degrees C, same as Molten Speed Wax recommends?
Thanks!
Sev
superb, thx