Regarding the brake lever position, when going down a steep hill and you move your body way back behind the saddle the almost horizontal position of levers is best. Since this is the time you'll be breaking the most you should optimize for that scenario. Numerous times the near horizontal brake lever position saved me when I was able to break with just the tip of my finger while being way back behind the saddle.
Muckoff bio degreaser leaves a film of residue that is hard to clean off with a cloth but can be washed off with warm water. They do howerver have a disc specific degeaeser wich uses a solvent that leaves no residue. With this solvent based degreaser you can even clean pads when they squeal by taking them out of the caliper, spraying them, lightly sanding them down and then spaying all the dirt off.
There was a time when my fork seal started leaking and the oil was dripping to my rotor. The contamination caused major power loss in the front brake. My trail side repair was to use dry dirt and leaves to clean the rotor, lots of dry dirt with fine grit. Restored braking power to get me home safely.
Wow, this is exactly what is happening to me in my new Scott Spark 930, those brakes Deore M506 are not so well. Congratulations, I love your tips. I'm just starting to follow your videos and all of them are awesome. I'm sure I will not be disappointed, I'm your new fan. Regards from Barcelona - Spain. 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
I have the same pair of magura disc brakes in active use still after 17years. Have not done anything with them except changing pads and still works very well. No going back to rim brakes..
For braking rotor I use some brake cleaner for motocycle and automobile. It is dirty cheap and do that job perfectly. I think that is alcohol based, evaporate very quickly, so you need to be fast. For most job it is enough to spray it, but if you have some grease (from maintenance) you need some towel. For brake pads I use sanding paper 240/400 grade. You need just sanding paper and some flat surface. Only problem I have is bending rotor. I have it on road bike. There is no much braking but problem begins on descending. I think they overheating and bending. I'm not young racer so I don't want 100 km/h. It is just to much on road full of potholes and traffic. I have grill on pads but I have plat to change rotors for better, heat resistant (2 compound).
-About the position you might want to keep in mind which discipline are you using your bike for because your body position will depend on that and will influence your needs therefore the levers position, for example downhill Vs Cross Country, body position is drastically diferent -Isopropyl alcohol works like a charm to clean the rotors -LOVE ceramic pads but they wear our a lill faster than mixed or metalic -Would be nice to mention brake bleeding too as it can totally mess the braking power Nice video, I like it =)
Just use Vinegar as a cleaner. You don't have to replace the braking pads. Clean them with a sand paper while soaked in vinegar. Also it works miraculously for the rotors too......as well as for the inside part of the calipers. Enjoy your ride!
Its very easy to degrease the brake pads, use brake cleaner and a wire brush, or green scotch bright and then a very light sandpaper application. Back to new.
I use isopropyl alcohol works well for me, semi metallic pads in my xt m785 brakes. Never got kelvar to bed in properly used to just glaze too easily. Got some race matrix compound to try next from uberbike.
Larger disc + adapter for it and you'll never need to do any tricks, no cleaning etc. The braking power is excellent even when the parts are dirty or wet. Time to time just change new pads, of course.
This bio degreaser you got there has to be washed of with water, the Dry degreaser does not. its written on the can: ''Water solvable formula'', the dry works great, one you got, is best suited for drivetrain cleaning, like cassette, chainrings. But you can use isopropyl alcohol
Man all i got to say is thank you so so much for the information u provide us in all your videos. As im getting ready for the longist bike ride iv have done. Im gonna be bikeing from Minnesota to Washington state a total of 1600 miles there and 1600 back so 3200miles is waiting for me lol. Please dont stop making videos ill be watching them on my rest points
ive never had to wear gloves, replace the pads, or degrease my rim brakes to get them to work or stop making noise so what are the advantages to them again?
I think a great brake pad material is Kevlar. I swear by the stuff. It provides great braking power and great heat resistance which degrades braking power. Not sure how much of an effect brake pad temperature has on mountain bikes, but it significantly affects performance cars and motorcycles. I figure if Kevlar works great on my BMW M3, and my Kawasaki Ninja motorcycle (when I used to own one), then I'm willing to bet the same great performance can be obtained on mountain bikes.
Dany... 9:20 Caliper brake = hamulec szczękowy (szosowy) Brake caliper = zacisk hamulca Kolejność ma znaczenie - w angielskim przymiotnik zawsze jest przed rzeczownikiem.
I weigh about 160 kilos and sometimes tow another 100 behind the bike, I ride 7 miles or more a day with some days being 30-50 miles. I am currently running cable for simplicity but I would like to know what configuration I should use (hydro mech) and what pads. I dont care if I need to replace them once a month I just need more stopping power as I tend to stay in high gear in high traffic and its not unusual to need to lockup from 25mph in the event of a car cutting me off. I live in the buffalo area so conditions are often wet and snowy and road grease is a common issue.
The best rotor cleaning solution I've found so far is a mixture of Isopropyl alcohol and LiquiMoly Schnellreiniger (aka LM Fast Cleaner). Use a spray bottle to spray all around the rotor from both sides, rub with a paper towel, repeat until there is no more oily residue on paper after it dries up. Optionally, finish the process with some pure isopropyl alcohol. And it's always a good idea to throw away your dirty "organic/semi-metal type" pads or to heat treat the pads if they are "sintered type". Another method is to remove the rotor and rub it with a clean brush and some moist paste of washing powder (the cheaper - less "fabric conditioning" additives - the better) and rinse it with a lot of running water. Then check if water adheres to the rotor uniformly - if so, the rotor is well degreased. If neither help - go for 200-400 grit sandpaper and resurface the rotor, then repeat the cleaning. Another advice from my experience - never get copper spray or copper grease anywhere near your bike brakes. Copper becomes surprisingly deeply fused into the rotor material and permanently spoils the surface friction characteristics. Resurfacing will not help - only a new rotor.
You should always use ONE FINGER Breaking...In this video you show 2 fingers...also you should put the lever further IN toward the fork so that JUST your index finger fits right in the curve. 2 finger breaking?? DON"T DO IT..you want as many fingers as possible on the grip. Also regular paper towels will leave behind fibers. You should only use shop towels as they don't leave any fibers behind.
@@davidarruda8400 Thank you, it may seem more dagerous. However you want as much control as possible that is why you have as many fingers as possible on the handlebar, steering etc. With modern breaks hydraulic etc. one finger is all it takes......have a great day!
Hey bro, I must say your videos are really helpful, have you made any video on maintanence of hydraulic breaks like changing of oil, oil pressure, increasing or decreasing break. Please guide me on this or from where I can have idea on these topics??
Hi Danny, concerning different type of pads, you forget to mention that it depends of the type of the rotor i.e if there is some recommendations from the producers. For example, It is not possible to use ceramic ones on my Shimano BL-M615.
M615 are garbage, the lever body/master cylinder is too flexible, it flexes under braking, causing threads for Torx screw to fail, also due to the flex they get air in the cylinder, the cheap Shimano brakes are hopeless, they feel great when they work. My written review: wp.me/p60aTF-PP
it is possible, its the rotor that is the issue, most bikes with m615 come with rotors that are Resin only,(not all but probably what you have)which will wear significantly faster than proper rotors, resin pads will also wear in 4 weeks, with my riding.
I have the opposite problem. My front wheel is so strong that it is like Indiana Jones putting a stick in the front wheel spokes of the Nazi BMW bikes chasing him. I fell once coming down a couple staircases. Wrong timing, too much lever pull and it just locked the front wheel causing me to fly off the bike. I am serious, even at super low speeds, my bike will jolt due to the stopping power in the front. The back brakes however, is like ABS on flat land. If I go downhill and I only had my back brakes, I would die for sure. It's a new bike.
Lol, That's funny dude. The system u have in ur rear brakes should be in the front ones, and the vice versa. Stupidly powerful front brakes isn't a good deal believe me. U need to do smth for tht. I know how that feels cuz I experienced it.
All my budget bikes came with pre contaminated brake pads that squeaked like hell and had really bad friction. Cleaning brake rotor with brake cleaner and filing my brake pads slightly with a clean metal file fixed my brakes.
personally, for degreasing the disc rotor i use a commercial car oil degreaser. Initially the rotor squeaks like hell after washing but after the pads rub a bit the brakes are like new
I have tektro draco brakes which havent been serviced since 5years and bleeding the brakes with new mineral oil helped me too. although good brake fluids (which normal mineral oil isnt) shouldnt have this problem because they can absorb some water before they start to go bad.
I need new brakes, I really want to try the disco brakes but I can’t afford them and my bike feels really poor without good pads. I’ve measured the pads I have now and there is 0.5 mm of pad left 😭
I have a specialised and my breaks are terrible What one should I get because there just not working great they only slow the wheel down and doesn’t have the power for the wheel to skid. What should I do get back to me soon 👊
@@Jacob-rd2wh And it's 'we're' here not where. You may be here 'because of bikes' but some literate people find it easier to read sentences with correct spelling.
Do tyres play a roll in braking power? And also i had organic pads on my bike, i replaced them with cerramic ones from aliexpress and there is no much diffrence, and the cerramic ones squeal so loud on rain, and when i wash my bike they dont brake at all until i hold the brakes for few minutes. What should i do?
Pads seem to have more of an affect on how long you can brake for without fade, as well as how well your brakes perform in rain. If you're ceramic pads don't brake any better then go back to the organic ones. I use sintered metallic ones, but that's only for money saving.
that’ll be overheating, take it easy on them or find a material that can diffuse the heat better, downhill mountain bike gear is meant for stuff like that.
yeah theres to much water in the muc off degreaser i use valvoline brake cleaner and even the WD40 degreaser the orange one is very good, and it vaporates directly so your braking will instantly be better . your vids are verry interesting enjoy it verry much would love a cannondale with a lefty one day love that bike!
Dude, can you send me some disco brake pads? I'm having trouble bedding my Tektro Auriga brakes. I would be forever grateful. Thanks in advance. I'm in Canada btw.
My problem is altogether différent. My disk brakes are so sensitive that I sometimes get thrown off my bike for just braking a little bit more than usual. I even crashed on the tarmac once due to my brakes stopping my bike dead on. Was lucky I didn't get injured. My arms and legs ached for a week though.
My brakes are Shimano ST EF 51. What bugs me is I got them adjusted by a bike tech after buying my bike online, because ironically I didn't want to take any chances. It's not that I can't brake progressively if I want to, but if I brake slightly too much my bike stops on the spot. I'm not sure it's supposed to work that way. Looks very risky too me. My accident happened 2 weeks ago and my forearms ache so much I still can't ride my bike again.
Do you mean disk brakes are generally more prone to lock up than rim brakes? As far as I can remember riding a bike (I'm 42 now), it's the very first time I experience being repeatedly thrown off my bike on braking. That's a very disturbing experience. Maybe I should try reducing their braking power before I switch back to rim brakes. As of now I've stopped using my front brake altogether. @ ein lappen: I usually brake with 2 fingers on both brakes. Am I supposed to use only one finger?
Hi I have an issue if anyone can help me, I have adjusted the brake pads and handle so when they are engaged they don't pull all the way so they are nice and tight, however when the brake is applied it has no real stopping power pads are not worn and I can't find a video on how I can make the brakes engage more it's as if it's slipping for some reason
No, that's the worst way to clean your rotors. Not only would it not clean it, it'll make your rotors useless. Just clean your rotors with some Isopropyl Alcohol or Rubbing Alcohol.
Just remember that WD-40 is pretty much no good for any parts that are on a bike. The only time you would need WD-40 is when you're maintaining your air fork stanchions. Otherwise, don't use WD-40 at all.
I know its a demonstration, but please don't put your palm on top of the grip of the bar. If you put it behind it you have more control and are less likely to slip when hitting bigger stuff.
Actually I thought there were some things not being obvious so it’s actually a complete beginners video. I hoped for some things like bleeding with more pressure or other things
Anyone know why my brakes won't properly engage. I pull the brake and they are very weak. I've adjusted them so they are nice and tight at the handle bars but this hasn't helped. The bike is only a year old and probably used in total for 8 months for a very short one mile commute so I wouldn't see how they would be worn already, the front brakes are nice and sharp any help is much appreciated im a newbie to disc brakes on a bike.
It is possible the pads or rotor is contaminated? I would clean both with alcohol and a very clean rag and let them dry. Maybe even a little sanding with fine (500+ grit) then clean...If you sand your rotors/pads you will need to break them in before riding. I hope this helps. If it doesn't, then consider replacing the pads and/ or rotor.
Ah luckily i found this video. I have changed front disc with 180, and try to align the calipers, but i still feel the brake is not good enough. Now i know the brake lever is to "horizontal", so i have to bent my wrist to brake. I will try it tomorrow, its already night in here. Thanks...
You can actually degrease the braking pads. Put them in isopropyl or ethanol overnight, pour away the liquid and do it again. dry the pads on air for a few hours and Bob's your uncle.
my rotor heats but doesnot brake like at all my pads are clean and the rotor too what can i do? its been only a week since i bought the bike at beginig it worked good but it went with no reason in a single night
My shimano xt brakes brake pades is not working properly . They are worn out and I can't get any pads for it. Do you know where I can get some. I want to buy discobrake pades but dont see any at the shops
Regarding the brake lever position, when going down a steep hill and you move your body way back behind the saddle the almost horizontal position of levers is best. Since this is the time you'll be breaking the most you should optimize for that scenario. Numerous times the near horizontal brake lever position saved me when I was able to break with just the tip of my finger while being way back behind the saddle.
Muckoff bio degreaser leaves a film of residue that is hard to clean off with a cloth but can be washed off with warm water. They do howerver have a disc specific degeaeser wich uses a solvent that leaves no residue. With this solvent based degreaser you can even clean pads when they squeal by taking them out of the caliper, spraying them, lightly sanding them down and then spaying all the dirt off.
There was a time when my fork seal started leaking and the oil was dripping to my rotor. The contamination caused major power loss in the front brake. My trail side repair was to use dry dirt and leaves to clean the rotor, lots of dry dirt with fine grit. Restored braking power to get me home safely.
Wow, this is exactly what is happening to me in my new Scott Spark 930, those brakes Deore M506 are not so well. Congratulations, I love your tips. I'm just starting to follow your videos and all of them are awesome. I'm sure I will not be disappointed, I'm your new fan. Regards from Barcelona - Spain. 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻✌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Hey, cheers to another one from Barcelona, nice to meet someone here. I'm following Danny for a while now and i haven't missed a video since :)
Your channel is amazing!!!! Congrats
I have the same pair of magura disc brakes in active use still after 17years. Have not done anything with them except changing pads and still works very well. No going back to rim brakes..
And all pads i wanted to buy are out of stock at discobrakes..
For braking rotor I use some brake cleaner for motocycle and automobile. It is dirty cheap and do that job perfectly. I think that is alcohol based, evaporate very quickly, so you need to be fast. For most job it is enough to spray it, but if you have some grease (from maintenance) you need some towel.
For brake pads I use sanding paper 240/400 grade. You need just sanding paper and some flat surface.
Only problem I have is bending rotor. I have it on road bike. There is no much braking but problem begins on descending. I think they overheating and bending. I'm not young racer so I don't want 100 km/h. It is just to much on road full of potholes and traffic. I have grill on pads but I have plat to change rotors for better, heat resistant (2 compound).
-About the position you might want to keep in mind which discipline are you using your bike for because your body position will depend on that and will influence your needs therefore the levers position, for example downhill Vs Cross Country, body position is drastically diferent
-Isopropyl alcohol works like a charm to clean the rotors
-LOVE ceramic pads but they wear our a lill faster than mixed or metalic
-Would be nice to mention brake bleeding too as it can totally mess the braking power
Nice video, I like it =)
You're amazing man!!! I love you're videos!!!
I have used the kevlar DiscoBreak pads for more than a year, tested in all of the scenarios and i won't be changing them.
Just use Vinegar as a cleaner. You don't have to replace the braking pads. Clean them with a sand paper while soaked in vinegar. Also it works miraculously for the rotors too......as well as for the inside part of the calipers. Enjoy your ride!
Thanks. Works like a charm.
Mine works fine im just bored
I wish that was my case😭😭
Same tho
Lol
Legend spotted
Its very easy to degrease the brake pads, use brake cleaner and a wire brush, or green scotch bright and then a very light sandpaper application. Back to new.
I do the same job testing different types of pads. Kevlar works fine for my set of Avid Elixir CR with RT86 rotors.
I use isopropyl alcohol works well for me, semi metallic pads in my xt m785 brakes. Never got kelvar to bed in properly used to just glaze too easily. Got some race matrix compound to try next from uberbike.
WORKS PERFECT on my BMX bike handles like a dream.
Спасибо за отличный обзор, для молодёжи. Раньше интернета не было, всё своей головой доходили.
Larger disc + adapter for it and you'll never need to do any tricks, no cleaning etc. The braking power is excellent even when the parts are dirty or wet. Time to time just change new pads, of course.
thanks good information
What kinda pro xc racer breaks with 2 fingers?
I think one more tip you should have included is; bleeding and replacing the mineral oil for hydraulic systems.
This bio degreaser you got there has to be washed of with water, the Dry degreaser does not. its written on the can: ''Water solvable formula'', the dry works great, one you got, is best suited for drivetrain cleaning, like cassette, chainrings.
But you can use isopropyl alcohol
Man all i got to say is thank you so so much for the information u provide us in all your videos. As im getting ready for the longist bike ride iv have done. Im gonna be bikeing from Minnesota to Washington state a total of 1600 miles there and 1600 back so 3200miles is waiting for me lol. Please dont stop making videos ill be watching them on my rest points
Im a 200lbs.5/11 ft.guy I use a sram code R brakes with metallic pads they are superb and they clamp instantly with no problems sir.
ive never had to wear gloves, replace the pads, or degrease my rim brakes to get them to work or stop making noise so what are the advantages to them again?
I think a great brake pad material is Kevlar. I swear by the stuff. It provides great braking power and great heat resistance which degrades braking power. Not sure how much of an effect brake pad temperature has on mountain bikes, but it significantly affects performance cars and motorcycles. I figure if Kevlar works great on my BMW M3, and my Kawasaki Ninja motorcycle (when I used to own one), then I'm willing to bet the same great performance can be obtained on mountain bikes.
Dany... 9:20
Caliper brake = hamulec szczękowy (szosowy)
Brake caliper = zacisk hamulca
Kolejność ma znaczenie - w angielskim przymiotnik zawsze jest przed rzeczownikiem.
my brake levers are almost parallel to the ground but i do a lot of DH and i am used to it, should i change it for better efficiency or not
Cześć SzajBajk!
Break With only one finger. Have no grip on the handlebar With only pinky and ring finger
And you can't really ride with your brakes covered...with 1 finger braking (and the proper setup) you can ride for hours with no issues.
Dan, I think the right word for the correct hand position is "Ergonomically"...
You should have mentioned about bleeding the brakes as well.
Yeah, air + oil= poor braking power
I weigh about 160 kilos and sometimes tow another 100 behind the bike, I ride 7 miles or more a day with some days being 30-50 miles. I am currently running cable for simplicity but I would like to know what configuration I should use (hydro mech) and what pads. I dont care if I need to replace them once a month I just need more stopping power as I tend to stay in high gear in high traffic and its not unusual to need to lockup from 25mph in the event of a car cutting me off. I live in the buffalo area so conditions are often wet and snowy and road grease is a common issue.
The best rotor cleaning solution I've found so far is a mixture of Isopropyl alcohol and LiquiMoly Schnellreiniger (aka LM Fast Cleaner). Use a spray bottle to spray all around the rotor from both sides, rub with a paper towel, repeat until there is no more oily residue on paper after it dries up. Optionally, finish the process with some pure isopropyl alcohol. And it's always a good idea to throw away your dirty "organic/semi-metal type" pads or to heat treat the pads if they are "sintered type".
Another method is to remove the rotor and rub it with a clean brush and some moist paste of washing powder (the cheaper - less "fabric conditioning" additives - the better) and rinse it with a lot of running water. Then check if water adheres to the rotor uniformly - if so, the rotor is well degreased.
If neither help - go for 200-400 grit sandpaper and resurface the rotor, then repeat the cleaning.
Another advice from my experience - never get copper spray or copper grease anywhere near your bike brakes. Copper becomes surprisingly deeply fused into the rotor material and permanently spoils the surface friction characteristics. Resurfacing will not help - only a new rotor.
As a dead person I can confirm you should regularly lube your rotors and brake pads
🥴🫡
You should always use ONE FINGER Breaking...In this video you show 2 fingers...also you should put the lever further IN toward the fork so that JUST your index finger fits right in the curve. 2 finger breaking?? DON"T DO IT..you want as many fingers as possible on the grip. Also regular paper towels will leave behind fibers. You should only use shop towels as they don't leave any fibers behind.
Seems more dangerous tbh
@@davidarruda8400 Thank you, it may seem more dagerous. However you want as much control as possible that is why you have as many fingers as possible on the handlebar, steering etc. With modern breaks hydraulic etc. one finger is all it takes......have a great day!
dude u only use one finger to break fr wheelies
Great videos on bike tips, continue, thanks, say hello from panama, joe.
Hey bro, I must say your videos are really helpful, have you made any video on maintanence of hydraulic breaks like changing of oil, oil pressure, increasing or decreasing break. Please guide me on this or from where I can have idea on these topics??
Hi Danny, concerning different type of pads, you forget to mention that it depends of the type of the rotor i.e if there is some recommendations from the producers. For example, It is not possible to use ceramic ones on my Shimano BL-M615.
M615 are garbage, the lever body/master cylinder is too flexible, it flexes under braking, causing threads for Torx screw to fail, also due to the flex they get air in the cylinder, the cheap Shimano brakes are hopeless, they feel great when they work.
My written review: wp.me/p60aTF-PP
it is possible, its the rotor that is the issue, most bikes with m615 come with rotors that are Resin only,(not all but probably what you have)which will wear significantly faster than proper rotors, resin pads will also wear in 4 weeks, with my riding.
I use safe to use Degreaser that i use for chain to clean my rotors and it works well no more break squealing
Unless you got SRAM 😂
I use some mechanic m375 shimano, gotta say they do work!, but ill like to find some nice (non shimano) pads with nice quality, do you know any ?
Hi if i usually have 160mm rotors F/R for normal riding would having 180-200mm F/R be better if i am touring and loading up the bike ya think?
I just spray brake cleaner on my pads and rotor if they start squeaking from oil.
How about bleeding the system ?
How does a guy born and raised in Texas end up with that accent?
SickBiker was born in Texas?
clean brakes, I use 99.9% IPA (ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL) to clean mine = zero squeak, better pads and proper setup will fix 99% of issues.
So you can clean pads that squeak with alcohol as well?
I have the opposite problem. My front wheel is so strong that it is like Indiana Jones putting a stick in the front wheel spokes of the Nazi BMW bikes chasing him. I fell once coming down a couple staircases. Wrong timing, too much lever pull and it just locked the front wheel causing me to fly off the bike. I am serious, even at super low speeds, my bike will jolt due to the stopping power in the front. The back brakes however, is like ABS on flat land. If I go downhill and I only had my back brakes, I would die for sure. It's a new bike.
Lol, That's funny dude. The system u have in ur rear brakes should be in the front ones, and the vice versa. Stupidly powerful front brakes isn't a good deal believe me. U need to do smth for tht. I know how that feels cuz I experienced it.
Dude....i am here in this video..for the same reason
I have shimano breaks and my front break is toos trong and my rear breaks are too weak
All my budget bikes came with pre contaminated brake pads that squeaked like hell and had really bad friction. Cleaning brake rotor with brake cleaner and filing my brake pads slightly with a clean metal file fixed my brakes.
To put on a larger rotor, one also has to remount the calipers onto a larger adaptor otherwise they will not fit.
personally, for degreasing the disc rotor i use a commercial car oil degreaser. Initially the rotor squeaks like hell after washing but after the pads rub a bit the brakes are like new
Stand Up your best degreaser is going to be brake cleaner CRC is one of the best
It is safe to operate a 40t truck with 1mm thick brake pads according to German TUV! I think it is ok if your bicycle brake pads are 1mm thick !
I have tektro draco brakes which havent been serviced since 5years and bleeding the brakes with new mineral oil helped me too. although good brake fluids (which normal mineral oil isnt) shouldnt have this problem because they can absorb some water before they start to go bad.
I have a kevlar disco pads with me but still I do not get too much of braking powers on my shimano brakes
I need new brakes, I really want to try the disco brakes but I can’t afford them and my bike feels really poor without good pads. I’ve measured the pads I have now and there is 0.5 mm of pad left 😭
Just change the pads. They can't be that expensive right?
Get some on Aliexpress less than 6$ for 4 pairs. So many options you will find there of near equal quality.
Excellent video!
I have a specialised and my breaks are terrible What one should I get because there just not working great they only slow the wheel down and doesn’t have the power for the wheel to skid. What should I do get back to me soon 👊
Freddy Reid ok number 1. It’s Specialized not Specialised
@@Eng586 and brakes not breaks
Where here because of bikes not spelling grammar 🤦🏻♂️
@@Jacob-rd2wh And it's 'we're' here not where. You may be here 'because of bikes' but some literate people find it easier to read sentences with correct spelling.
@@ianburr1177 stfu
Do tyres play a roll in braking power?
And also i had organic pads on my bike, i replaced them with cerramic ones from aliexpress and there is no much diffrence, and the cerramic ones squeal so loud on rain, and when i wash my bike they dont brake at all until i hold the brakes for few minutes. What should i do?
they don't, but if they lose traction, you can't use the full power
Pads seem to have more of an affect on how long you can brake for without fade, as well as how well your brakes perform in rain. If you're ceramic pads don't brake any better then go back to the organic ones. I use sintered metallic ones, but that's only for money saving.
Yes...If you lose traction you will lose braking power. Look to see if your knobs on the rear tire are starting to become rounded.
I'd love to see some riding videos from you rather than just tiny snippets.
I wanna see you enjoying your bikes as well as teaching us stuff.
I have a mechanical disc brake front side piston that is not adjustable it's jammed
It's probably a single piston design that pushes one side against a fixed pad? They are uncommon now but they still exist...
I have a problem where if i use my brake too much it gets really weak to the point where it doesn't even brake anymore
that’ll be overheating, take it easy on them or find a material that can diffuse the heat better, downhill mountain bike gear is meant for stuff like that.
It's called brake fade, even cars face this
Are these the Magura mt4?
yesss, after 2 hours uffff thanks for all the stuff
You only need one finger on the brake lever
No slammed stem, no pro rider
OT: Should've talked about burping the brakes.
yeah theres to much water in the muc off degreaser i use valvoline brake cleaner and even the WD40 degreaser the orange one is very good, and it vaporates directly so your braking will instantly be better . your vids are verry interesting enjoy it verry much would love a cannondale with a lefty one day love that bike!
Dude, can you send me some disco brake pads? I'm having trouble bedding my Tektro Auriga brakes. I would be forever grateful. Thanks in advance. I'm in Canada btw.
I am a big fan of you.
My problem is altogether différent. My disk brakes are so sensitive that I sometimes get thrown off my bike for just braking a little bit more than usual. I even crashed on the tarmac once due to my brakes stopping my bike dead on. Was lucky I didn't get injured. My arms and legs ached for a week though.
Ferdinand Bardamu might want to get some less aggressive pads or possiblyeven brakes with better modulation
My brakes are Shimano ST EF 51. What bugs me is I got them adjusted by a bike tech after buying my bike online, because ironically I didn't want to take any chances. It's not that I can't brake progressively if I want to, but if I brake slightly too much my bike stops on the spot. I'm not sure it's supposed to work that way. Looks very risky too me. My accident happened 2 weeks ago and my forearms ache so much I still can't ride my bike again.
Ferdinand Bardamu maybe you just need to get used to discs all disc brakes I’ve ridden if you lock up the front you are pretty much screwed
Do you mean disk brakes are generally more prone to lock up than rim brakes? As far as I can remember riding a bike (I'm 42 now), it's the very first time I experience being repeatedly thrown off my bike on braking. That's a very disturbing experience. Maybe I should try reducing their braking power before I switch back to rim brakes. As of now I've stopped using my front brake altogether.
@ ein lappen: I usually brake with 2 fingers on both brakes. Am I supposed to use only one finger?
Ferdinand Bardamu I would recommend only using one with disc brakes and I’m saying once they do lock up it locks up way harder than rim
Hi I have an issue if anyone can help me, I have adjusted the brake pads and handle so when they are engaged they don't pull all the way so they are nice and tight, however when the brake is applied it has no real stopping power pads are not worn and I can't find a video on how I can make the brakes engage more it's as if it's slipping for some reason
Edit
Ive had the bike less than a year and only commute 1 mile each day
Is WD40 a good degreaser to clean my rotors?
No, that's the worst way to clean your rotors. Not only would it not clean it, it'll make your rotors useless. Just clean your rotors with some Isopropyl Alcohol or Rubbing Alcohol.
DINO IDEAS WD40 has degreaser but it also adds an oily lubricant that will make you brakes completely useless
oh!. Thanks for that guys. Good thing i asked before doing it..
Just remember that WD-40 is pretty much no good for any parts that are on a bike. The only time you would need WD-40 is when you're maintaining your air fork stanchions. Otherwise, don't use WD-40 at all.
Well How about a Brake part Cleaner?
I know its a demonstration, but please don't put your palm on top of the grip of the bar. If you put it behind it you have more control and are less likely to slip when hitting bigger stuff.
Why do you use 2 fingers on the brakes??
for brake rollers we can use alcohol Scrub pads
to clean my rotors, i take some alcohol pads. You can get a pack of 50 at Costco
Actually I thought there were some things not being obvious so it’s actually a complete beginners video. I hoped for some things like bleeding with more pressure or other things
Anyone know why my brakes won't properly engage. I pull the brake and they are very weak. I've adjusted them so they are nice and tight at the handle bars but this hasn't helped. The bike is only a year old and probably used in total for 8 months for a very short one mile commute so I wouldn't see how they would be worn already, the front brakes are nice and sharp any help is much appreciated im a newbie to disc brakes on a bike.
Depends on your bike
If its squeky try cleaning the whole braking system, the disc, the pads and that should probbably fix your problem
And also check the brakes if they close evenly from the both sides
Hope this helped
It is possible the pads or rotor is contaminated? I would clean both with alcohol and a very clean rag and let them dry. Maybe even a little sanding with fine (500+ grit) then clean...If you sand your rotors/pads you will need to break them in before riding. I hope this helps. If it doesn't, then consider replacing the pads and/ or rotor.
What brake pads should i buy for my Shimano disk brakes.
there are 3 types so far i remember. what is our model?
My front disc is not braking just a little should I replace the brakes or the brake pads
Replace the fortnite
The most right and eficient is to replace the pads, but if The disk is old replace it
Ah luckily i found this video. I have changed front disc with 180, and try to align the calipers, but i still feel the brake is not good enough. Now i know the brake lever is to "horizontal", so i have to bent my wrist to brake. I will try it tomorrow, its already night in here. Thanks...
Y is my mechanical disc brakes not strong
Bleed them!
Hello I am a. New man to your channel 😎
I will use this on Santa Cruz 🚲 it's really working
You can actually degrease the braking pads. Put them in isopropyl or ethanol overnight, pour away the liquid and do it again. dry the pads on air for a few hours and Bob's your uncle.
my rotor heats but doesnot brake like at all
my pads are clean and the rotor too
what can i do?
its been only a week since i bought the bike
at beginig it worked good but it went with no reason
in a single night
Same here bro
@@warriorop23 did you fix it?
I tried a lot but it's not working
@@warriorop23 did you bleed it?
@@trinxy Mine is mechanical
Hello stick biker I have a poor brake of Shimano please send me any tips I am big fan of your but I liked those ceramic ones
Super video thanks for sharing
Upgrade to 200mm rotors and you will not have to worry about braking power anymore😁
What is the best brake pads compound for Tektro Novela mechanical brakes?
I use isopropyl alcohol as a degreaser. Works really well.
Not sure but I think that kind of alcohol also draws moisture which in turn causes rust.
Use n-heptane. Iso is suboptimal for that and draws water.
Really nice to see your beautiful Cannondale. Had thought that you've returned/sold it. :-)
would a magura mt7 be better than a shimano slx brake?
my jak super brake are all but super
i use wet tissues for babies changing diaper wipes to clean the rotor and pads and work great.
I want to switch from dot brake fluid to mineral oil, apart from changing the cables and levers, do I have to replace the calipers too?
My shimano xt brakes brake pades is not working properly . They are worn out and I can't get any pads for it. Do you know where I can get some. I want to buy discobrake pades but dont see any at the shops
Arno Stokes chain reaction cycles
Bro after installing all things new brake is not like doing stoppie
v brakes the way to go
@@Skambutisz ew
hi can you use any material pad on any disc or is it specific?
usually it is specific, for example, the disk could have text engraved saying "resin pad only"
If the braking pads are rusty so what shall we do
Good information, my Mt5 feel spongy can they be burped please and how thank you
Lee. Cube Stereo 160 Race :)